Curso eG/CTR: The Berlinside scoop

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In a city that sees itself as only 22 years old, Berlin is now a breeding ground for …

In a city that sees itself as only 22 years old, Berlin is now a breeding ground for
young talent and this is why so many people are making a pilgrimage here every year. In
a city famed for its ability to regenerate, Berlin is constantly growing and changing, but we have managed to compile a guide of some of the best places to go: So read, visit and fall in love with Berlin, just like we have.

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  • 1. The Berlinside scoopA young persons guide to Berlin A young persons guide to
  • 2. EDITOR Chris Meigh LAYOUT Hannah Dowds, Phoebe Pring, Andrea Pittori SECTION EDITORS MUSEUMS AND LANDMARKS Delphine Leang ART AND CULTURE Angela Colley From bomb shelters to beach bars, Berlin has it all. It may not be your typical capital city SHOPPING but Berlin has so much character and an endless amount of things to do. For art enthusi- Kate Naughton asts, there is some of the most interesting graffiti and street art in the world, as well as a LEISURE AND OUTDOORS vast number of art galleries and exhibitions. For history buffs, there are over 50 museums, Claire Ferrie hundreds of historical sights and a plethora of memorials to Germany’s past. In a city so honest about the troubled times it underwent, you will never go short of a museum, no FOOD AND DRINK Kirsten Wood matter what your interest. If you’re a partier, you can make the most of Berlin’s famous 72 hour club-marathons or sip cocktails in one of Berlin’s many bars. As the home of techno BARS AND NIGHTLIFE Aoife Boyle music, this genre is almost inescapable in the clubs but you will soon learn to embrace it! For food lovers, there are hundreds of bistros, restaurants and cafes, all with quirky SURVIVAL GUIDE themes and an interesting cliental. HISTORY In a city that sees itself as only 22 years old, Berlin is now a breeding ground for Phoebe Pring young talent and this is why so many people are making a pilgrimage here every year. In ESSENTIAL KNOWLEDGE a city famed for its ability to regenerate, Berlin is constantly growing and changing, but we Kate Naughton have managed to compile a guide of some of the best places to go: So read, visit and fall LANGUAGE in love with Berlin, just like we have. Delphine Leang TRANSPORT Chris Meigh Kirsten Wood EditorThe Berlinside scoop The Berlinside scoop
  • 3. CONTENTS 32 MUSEUMS AND LANDMARKS 102 LEISURE AND OUTDOORS 5 History of Berlin 33 Sachsenhausen 103 G r r r r , Bear-lin 9 SURVIVAL GUIDE 66 ART AND CULTURE 115 T h e O l y m p i c Stadium 13 Language 67T h e W e i m a r 122 CAFES AND RESTAURANTS Republic 17 Getting to know the City 83 Amplemann 123 Fast Food or No Food 23 Brewer’s Walking Tour 73 Flavours of 144 BARS AND NIGHTLIFE Berlin 25 Public Transport 86 SHOPPING 159 C o n t r i b u t o r s ProfilesSanssouci SanssouciThe Berlinside scoop The Berlinside scoop
  • 4. 12 ART AND CULTUREBerlin is home to numerous art galleries, music and theatre venues as well as cinemas. Theproblem is going to be narrowing down what things you want to see the most and we haveprovided a small selection here to help to point you in the right direction.Following cheap rent and living costs after the fall of the Berlin wall, the city became a drawfor creative types from all over Europe. Street art, legal or otherwise, continues to beprominent and you can find out more about this if you decide to go on the Alternative Tour.However, you might be somewhat saddened to discover that Tacheles, the 9000 squaremeter artists collective on Oranienburgstrasse closed in September 2012. Hopefully thisis not a sign of things to come and creativity in the arts will continue to flourish in Berlin. Angela Colley NT hN A M E rGF iIG U Ii S EeC T IC TNo p A M E B e OlU n s /Dd E / S E c oI O N e OF DE sO
  • 5. 67 68 the weimar republic by chris meigh During this time, English novelist Chris- Next head down the road to Leberstrasse 65, where on December topher Isherwood moved to Berlin and the Eldorado nightclub. This is not the 27th, 1901 Marlene Dietrich was born. wrote his most famous novel based on one that Isherwood himself went to; it On the building is a plaque commemo- his experiences, Goodbye to Berlin. This has merely borrowed famous name. On rating one of Germany’s most famous book gave birth to the sensational char- your left you will notice a bio-supermar- performers. Dietrich was often part of acter Sally Bowles, who was the inspira- ket; which is the site of the real Eldorado. the Schöneberg cabaret scene and was tion for the stage show Cabaret, as well The supermarket has original photos of seen by Isherwood many times. She as its 1972 film adaptation staring Lisa Marlene Dietrich on the walls, as this was eventually left Berlin and vowed never to Minnelli. one of her favourite clubs to perform at. return after what happened during the Begin your journey into the Wei- Ironically, this gay hot spot was taken over Holocaust. She was invited personally by mar Republic at Nollendorfplatz train sta- by the Nazi’s in 1933, who used it as their the Nazis to be part of their propaganda tion in the gay capital of Europe, Schöne- local headquarters. but she refused outright. She would later berg. Around here you will see a plethora The next stop is Kleiststrasse 35, reside in USA until she finally visited Ger- of gay pride flags and posters dedicated where the first gay bar in Europe stood. many again in 1960. to Marlene Dietrich. Head past the Goya It used to be the Kleist Casino but as of These are just some of the nightclub and onto Nollendorfstrasse. 2002 it has been called The Bull. This in- highlights from the Weimar Republic era. The large wooden door at number 17 conspicuous, men only bar is now one However, be sure to make the most of THE WEIMAR REPUBLIC is where Christopher Isherwood lived (as did the character in Goodbye to Berlin) of Schöneberg’s most outrageous gay cruising bars and was once a favourite of sexy, if somewhat seedy, Schöneberg where there are numerous cafes, ice with numerous other tenants. His clos- Isherwood and WH Auden during their cream parlours and gay friendly (and gayBerlin during the Weimar Republic was a hotbed for culture with cabaret being one of the est friend here was singer and performer time in Berlin. themed) shops where everybody is wel-most popular past times. Clubs such as the Eldorado hosted nights that featured famous Jean Ross, who would later be the inspi- The final stop on your tour come.starlets such as Marlene Dietrich and Claire Waldoff. ration for Sally Bowles. through Weimar era Berlin should beThe Berlinside scoop T h e eB e r l i n s i d e es c o o p p Th Berlinsid scoo
  • 6. 69 70art and culture art and culturecharlottenburg charlottenburg SCHAUBÜHNE AM LEHNINER PLATZ seems out of place next to Krfurst- French subtitles and a focus on politi- Newton Foundation. This foundation is endamm’s designer shops. Inside there cal issues and experimental techniques, dedicated to the promotion, preserva- Kurfürstendamm 153, 10709 is a small box office and café where audi- it’s fair to say that the Schaubühne am tion, and presentation of the works of Box Office: Monday to Sun- day: 11am; Sunday: 3pm ences can enjoy a bowl of warm soup or Lehniner Platz rises to the challenge. one of the world’s most renowned pho- €7-€43 plate of taglietelle for around €5. Unde- Kirsten Wood tographers from Berlin along with the U7 - Adenauerplatz niably, the most remarkable aspect of the Art Library’s Photographic Collection. Schaubühne is the flexibility of the three On the ground floor, you will A short walk from the Adenauerplatz U- stages (Stage A, B, and C). Divided by MUSEUM FÜR FOTOGRAFIE/ get into the photographer’s intimate Bahn, the Schaubühne am Lehniner Platz two moveable walls, they can be used as MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY/ world in the permanent exhibition en- is the only major dramatic theatre in West one big stage or three smaller ones. The HELMUT NEWTON FOUNDATION titled “Private Property”, featuring per- Berlin. Established in 1962 this theatre theatre’s recent production of Frauline sonal possessions such as suits, shoes, and uses experimental techniques combining Julie (Miss Julie) used the whole space, Jebesstrasse 2, 10623 cameras. The little section devoted to the film, art, music and dance to explore the www.smb.museum/mf constructing a four-walled house on the Tuesday to Sunday: 10am – condolence letters his wife Alice Springs social and political issues faced by society. stage. This gave the audience a glimpse 6pm; Thursday:10am-10pm. received after he was killed in a car ac- Past productions include classics such as into the private lives of the characters, €8 /€4 concession cident gives a solemn atmosphere to the Shakespeare’s Hamlet and a Midsummer using camera technology to film intimate U2,S5,S7-Zoologischer room. However, it is also a reminder that Nights Dream, Ibsen’s A Doll’s House Garten close ups which were projected onto a the photographer who revolutionized and several Greek tragedies as well as screen above the stage. fashion photography by turning it into art other newer pieces. Finding contemporary theatre Built in 1909, this neo-classical building was a friend of celebrities, heads of states, The circular building, designed in Berlin that caters to non-German initially served as a military casino and and even royalty. If you are not a fan of by famous architect Erich Mendelson, speakers is a challenge. With two per- now houses the Photography Museum, Helmut Newton’s provocative work that with its chrome finishing and lit-up sign formances each month with English and which exhibits pieces from the Helmut wavers between nude photography andMuseum of PhotographyThe Berlinside scoop NT h eE B e rG U I n s i S E C T I c o o p AM OF li DE/ de s ON
  • 7. 71 72art and culture art and culturekreuzberg-friedrichshain/ mitte kreuzberg-friedrichshain/ mittechic porn, you can nevertheless enjoy death and division. It’s impossible not to of the artwork on display underwent res- tant exhibitions, showing off works by the lie, where heroic attempts to cross the entating Holocaust Memorial. Also expectthis museum as the first floor presents find irony in the fact that this former sym- toration in 2000 and the rest of the wall likes of Jeff Koons, Rei Kawakubo, SSUR, death-strip make Steve Mcqueen’s ‘Great to be swept along infamous Friedrich-temporary exhibitions dedicated to con- bol of repression has fuelled a fiery cam- was restored in 2008/2009. Now, back Takashi Murakami and Dondi White, Escape’ appear lame in comparison. strasse; notable for being the heartbeattemporary artists and the Art Library’s paign of expression, featuring the work to its former glory and as awe-inspiring amongst others. Beginning daily at 1pm, these tours will of Germany’s Weimar era, (influencingPhotographic Collection holds its exhibi- of 118 artists from 21 different countries. and emotive as ever, this is a must visit. The space lends itself as the enlighten you on the buzz that is modern Christopher Isherwood’s novel ‘Goodbyetions on the top floor. Shortly after the wall came Phoebe Pring perfect location for changing exhibitions day Berlin. Comfortable footwear is ad- to Berlin’). Be taken back to the terrifying Delphine Leang down in 1989, artists flocked to the scene from contemporary art to toys and poli- vised for the 3.5 hour walk. Cold War era with Check-Point Char- to make their mark. They recorded a tics. With its clean white walls and high For the hard up history buff hoping to lie, where heroic attempts to cross the mesh of memories, messages, and hopes ME COLLECTORS ROOM ceilings, the bright space lets the art explore Berlin on a budget help is at death-strip make Steve Mcqueen’s ‘GreatTHE EAST SIDE GALLERY for the future by creating an interna- speak for itself. hand! Brewer’s Berlin Walking Tours offer Escape’ appear lame in comparison. tional freedom memorial on the longest Auguststraße 68, 10117 A permanent feature of the ME a comprehensive and enthralling English Beginning daily at 1pm, these tours willMühlenstrasse 45-80, 10243 www.me-berlin.com stretch of the Berlin wall. Walking along Tuesday to Sunday: 12pm- Collectors Room is the incredibly intrigu- spoken history lessons around the city’s enlighten you on the buzz that is modernwww.eastsidegallery.comFree the 1.3km reveals painting after painting, 6pm ing ‘Wunderkammer’. This astonishing prominent landmarks. day Berlin. Comfortable footwear is ad-S5, S7, S9, S75 - Ostbahn- including the famous image of East Ger- €6 collection of Renaissance and Baroque The ‘Express Tour’ bases itself on a bud- vised for the 3.5 hour walk.hof, U1 - Schlesisches Tor man leader Erich Honecker kissing Soviet U8 – Weinmeisterstraße; curiosities focusing on ‘Vanitas’ (the goth- get friendly tip-what-you-can-afford basis, For the hard up history buff hoping to U6 - Oranienburger Tor leader Leonid Brezhnev. Other heart-felt ic theme of death) and explores this sub- as opposed to the generic set fee, per- explore Berlin on a budget help is atStanding at the base of the East Side Gal- images include a loose line drawing of two ject with objects such as rare ivory carv- mitting everyone an enjoyable excursion hand! Brewer’s Berlin Walking Tours offerlery, an outdoor art gallery canvassed Located on creative Auguststrasse, the people ‘dancing to freedom’ and a Ger- ME collectors Room (ME is an abbre- ings and gothic skeletons carved in coral with captivating commentary from the a comprehensive and enthralling Englishupon the longest remaining stretch of man flag covered in blood-red footprints. and gold. enthusiastic tour guides. spoken history lessons around the city’sthe Berlin wall, it’s staggering to think viation of ‘moving energies’), has entered Despite being protected by the Berlin art scene with a bang. Since If this all gets too much, let the Expect to pass such sights as the grand prominent landmarks.that the concrete behind this explosive preservation order since 1993, the wallhas flashing UV signs of the coffee shop draw Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral), iconic The ‘Express Tour’ bases itself on a budgetdisplay of creativity was once a source of opening in 2010, this influential gallery been plagued with vandalism. One-third has already hosted a number of impor- you in. A delicious selection of snacks is Brandenburg Gate and the eerie, disori- friendly tip-what-you-can-afford basis, as The East Side GalleryThe Berlinside scoop NT hN A M E rGF iIG U Ii S EeC T IC TNo p A M E B e OlU n s /Dd E / S E c oI O N e OF DE sO
  • 8. 159 full ebook download: http://www.lulu.com/content/e-book/berlinside-scoop/13254596 160ANGELA COLLEY PHOEBE PRINGFondly referred to as the ‘dark horse’ of the group, Angela Colley lives a bit of a double life. By day, she likes to An essential part of both the writing and design team, Phoebe is a girl of many talents. With her exuberant smile,roam the streets of Berlin, with a love of all things cultural, popping in and out of the city’s many museums and endless amounts of energy and passion for travel, Phoebe has enjoyed sampling the best of Berlin, from nightlifegalleries. But by night, glass of red wine in hand she will happily stay out until the sun comes up chatting to all the to cafes, museums to shopping. A perfectionist to the end, Phoebe really is someone you want on your team!locals. She also has a serious addiction to Mustafa’s kebaps! AOIFE BOYLEDELPHINE LEANG Aoife, currently studying law at the Queens University Belfast, has a truly remarkable talent for creating puns.An experienced translator, with a degree in English Language, Literature and Civilization, from her comes that Bursting with the charm of the Irish and always laughing, she managed to brighten up all those early morning Ger-french touch emerging here and there in this book. One of the most proficient speakers of the local idiom in the man lessons. When not writing, she can be found painting her nails or dancing into the wee hours of the morning.team, her intercession with the less tourist-friendly shopkeepers turned out to be of capital importance to get an Astonishingly quick-witted and with an Irish accent that’s impossible to tire of, Aoife has been a pleasure to spendonion-free döner or the next size up of that vintage dress. time with and an invaluable member of the team.CHRIS MEIGH ANDREA PITTORIYou couldn’t ask for a better Editor, always ready to take a hit for the team this lovable Brit is full of knowledge. The dark-haired mysterious Andrea comes to us straight ahead from Turin, Italy. Behind the appearance of aNever short of a witty conversation or a quirky tidbit, spending time with Chris means there is never a dull mo- dreamer, he personifies the modern Renaissance man. This student of English and German literature spends hisment. time testing coffee in coffee chains for the common good when he’s not playing the guitar. But he also mastersLikes wine, likes chicken, LOVES to talk……… some very modern skills such as graphic design, which made him a precious member of the layout team.KIRSTEN WOOD HANNAH DOWDSRecent graduate and globetrotter, Kirsten Wood is often to be found in Berlin’s chicest cafes working her way Creative, cool, calm and collected, Hannah is a true professional and was an absolute godsend on the layout team.through the menu. A great fan of burning the candle at both ends she has successfully managed to make the Having been here a month longer than everyone else, she was always happy to offer advice and share her newlymost of Berlin nightlife while persevering with morning German classes. She would like to return to Berlin again gained insider tips. As to be expected from someone who studied fashion design, she has an enviable wardrobeat some point for the coffee, the culture and the cake, but mostly for the cocktails. and sense of style and always managed to look perfectly put-together, even after a night out.CLAIRE FERRIE KATE NAUGHTONAustralia obsessed Claire is defiantly the mother of the group. Once she’s made sure her flatmates are safely in Born for the role of Shopping Editor, Kate is the Queen of Ku’dam. Gorgeous, fashionable, intelligent and talentedbed, she can settle and prepare for a long day of souvenir shopping and looking at bears (her new obsession) – it’s no wonder she always has a smile on her face. The friendliest girl ever, you cannot enter the same room asaround the city. With a degree in broadcasting, lovable Claire is now getting some print experience and will most her without being offered a beer, a snack or her seat, and I’m pretty sure if you ever needed a kidney you’d justlikely publish her guide to bears in the next 12 months. have to ask! Living proof that you are what you eat, Kate is as sweet as the cocktails she so frequently has to hand.N h e E BO F l i n D E / Se Cs c O N pTAM er GUIsid E TI oo The Berlinside scoop