Berlin Anoutsidersguide


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Berlin Anoutsidersguide

  1. 1. Schöneberg General Information Schöneberg General Information
  2. 2. Contents Contents 1 Schöneberg General Information Schöneberg General Information 2
  3. 3. Berlin Tube Map 3 Schöneberg General Information Schöneberg General Information 4
  4. 4. History History Berlin from 1237-1900 In tracing back a few hundred years, that, by the mid-fourteenth century, Enlightenment. Prussia’s third king, it is possible to see how this came had become the most important Friedrich the Great, transformed Berlin is a name which conjures many to be. Geographically speaking, trading town in Brandenburg, with Prussia - with Berlin as its capital - images: a city at the centre of war, a Berlin came into existence as an its own City Council and Stadtbuch. into an enlightened, politically and conflicted and divided city. A city, if insignificant trade town situated economically strong and religiously you will, on the extremes. By the time of the Reformation, in between the two older towns of tolerant state. Berlin had become an important Having been the axis of so much of Spandau and Cölln. This central German town in its own right, the world’s recent history, it might position worked to Berlin’s favour as particularly special to many being be easy to assume that this was all it continued to grow and enveloped one of the first cities in Europe to that Berlin had to offer in terms of both other towns within its own embrace Lutheranism. Because of historical interest. But this is not so. boundaries. this, many French Huguenots fled It has been said of Berlin that it is the Though Berlin can only date its own to Berlin bringing with them their centre of Germany just as Germany foundation from the first extant intellectual and industrial talents. is the centre of Europe. mention of Cölln in 1237, it was Berlin Even today, though the name “Huguenot” has become largely insignificant in modern-day Europe, this relationship between French Protestants and Berlin is still celebrated in Mitte’s Gendarmenmarkt. Here the Französicher Dom and the Deutscher Dom, mirroring each other in design, are monuments to the great respect these two groups had for each other. Despite the years Even defeats in the Thirty Years War between Napoleon’s invasion of failed to completely destroy Prussia’s Brandenburg and the Cold War, when supremacy. This in time transformed Franco-German relations were at a the Hohenzollern dynasty into one of very low ebb, it is nice to see these the greatest in Europe, related by two rivals still facing each other in marriage to most of the great houses friendship in the Gendarmenmarkt. on the continent. Not only a trend-setter in religion, This strength, nobility and stature Berlin became a leader in the were, along with the talents of 5 Schöneberg General Information Schöneberg General Information 6
  5. 5. History History Otto von Bismarck, one of the main Jewish people of Berlin successfully Philosopher and scholar Moses In the Weimer years (1919-1933) reasons why Berlin and its monarchy engaged in money lending and Mendelssohn arrived in Berlin in Jewish citizens of Germany and Berlin became the head of the newly unified petty trade. They were confined 1743, and urged Jews to integrate enjoyed unprecedented levels of Germany. to living in a ghetto in the Grosser into secular society and by 1778 these freedom, with plays by Max Reinhardt Judenhof (Jew’s Court) area, and on enlightened ideas found expression taking the stage, Jewish composers Despite the later failures of this Judenstrasse (Jew Street). in the Jüdische Freischule (Jewish including Arnold Schoenberg’s works system in the early years of the Free School) that combined religious being performed, Max Liebermann 20th century, this age of a strong Following the devastation of the learning with general education. and Lesser Ury creating beautiful and enlightened German Empire, Thirty Years’ War and in an attempt paintings and musicians such as the led from Berlin, remained in the to achieve an economic upswing by Though the 1812 Emancipation Comedian Harmonists at the height European psyche for many years. increasing population, the Great Edict that declared Jewish people of popularity. The Jewish population Elector Friedrich Wilhelm allowed 50 equal citizens was in the most continued to grow and by 1933 prosperous Jewish families that were part quickly retracted, there was 160,000 Jews called Berlin home. Jewish History of Berlin expelled from Vienna to settle in the a general loosening on Prussia’s Brandenburg region in 1671. They restrictions and growing equality for At the same time anti-Semitism was The history of the Jewish community were permitted to stay under the its Jewish population. By 1869 the on the rise and the years leading up is plagued by episodic persecution, condition that they pay an annual new North German Confederation to the ascendance of Nazi power saw Jews often being used as a scapegoat protection fee, engage in only passed a law on the equal rights of increasing attacks on members of the for economic and social woes. certain businesses and worship only religious confession Jewish community. State- By 1295 Jewish people in Berlin were in their own homes. Finally, a Jewish and declared the backed persecution barred from many professions and community of Berlin was officially emancipation of ensued after the effectively forbidden to become founded. Jewish people Nazis took power in members of the artisan guilds. within its territory 1933, and with the Despite suffering restrictions on and by 1871 German 1935 Nüremberger Throughout the 14th to 16th centuries religion, residence and family size Jews had equal Gesetze (Nuremberg Jews were expelled from Berlin and as well as extra taxes, the Jewish rights. Within a Laws) the Jewish let back in time and again, accused population of Berlin grew and by few years members citizens of Germany of acts such as the rampant plague 1700 the city’s Jewish slums had of the Jewish were effectively in Berlin and Brandenburg, which approximately 1,000 residents. In community rose to deprived of social and had been sweeping across Europe; 1714 the first synagogue of Berlin was prominence in government, many economic rights via the introduction and host desecration; which meant dedicated. As excellent merchants as close advisors to the Kaiser. By of apartheid-like classifications of that Berlin had virtually no Jewish and bankers, by halfway through the the turn of the century, there were “racial purity”. community for a century. 18th century the Jewish community more than 110,000 Jews in Berlin, totaled close to 2,000 and they had Between 1933 and 1939 Jewish Between expulsions and being comprising more than 5% of the total become among the richest people in community life increased as Jewish banned from most other trades, the population. Berlin. citizens were forced to send their 7 Schöneberg General Information Schöneberg General Information 8
  6. 6. History History children to segregated schools and This night is known as citizens were banned from public and even by 1988 the East German forbidden from interacting with Reichskristallnacht – Night of Broken transport, their food rations Jewish community had less than 200 non-Jews. Those who could see the Glass, a nationwide attack on the were reduced and thousands members. writing on the wall and had money Jewish people that resulted in the were deported, mostly to the In West Berlin, the German Jewish escaped while they could, though death of 36 of Berlin’s Jews, many Theresienstadt and Auschwitz community had about 6,000 even such escape was a limited were beaten on the streets while concentration camps. members, constituting opportunity, as other European passers-by looked on; the destruction By the end of the war, the largest Jewish countries, the US and Palestine all of 23 synagogues and the wrecking of Hitler’s mass genocide community in Germany. restricted Jewish immigration. hundreds of shops and businesses. had reduced Berlin’s After the two Berlin German Jewish citizens were then In retaliation for the assassination Jewish population by Jewish communities required to pay one million marks to of German diplomat Ernst vom Rath, around 96 per cent to were reunited with the repair the damages. who was killed by a 17-year-old about 6,500. Survivors fall of the Berlin Wall, Polish-Jew, Herschel Grynsypan, the By 1941 it was compulsory for Jewish managed to escape the federal government Reich Minister of Propaganda Joseph citizens to wear a yellow star at all death often through approved refugee status Goebbels called for a nationwide times, and the first mass deportations being hidden by gentile for Jews from the former pogrom on November 9th 1938. from Berlin marked the beginning of families at great Soviet Union and since the systematic large-scale genocide personal risk or by then over 50,000 Jewish of German Jews. Before the end of evading final round-ups people have immigrated the war over 55,000 Jewish residents through legal conditions to Germany, with Berlin of Berlin were deported. such as irreplaceable more than doubling its skills vital to the war congregation members In January 1941 the Wannsee effort or being married to a non-Jew. to over 12,000. Conference resolved and planned the Only about 2,000 returned from the so-called Endlösung der Judenfrage Since reunification several steps concentration camps. (Final Solution to the Jewish have been taken to preserve Jewish Question) – the removal of all Jews In 1946 the Jewish community was history including the opening of the to the East and, implicitly, their officially recognized again as a Jewish Museum and the decision by extermination. The Final Solution public body, and a large number of the German Bundestag to erect the began to be put into effect, and Eastern European Jews immigrated Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden life for the Jewish citizens in Berlin to Berlin. As a result of intense Europas (Memorial for the Murdered became increasingly unbearable. anti-Semitic persecution in East Jews of Europe) according to the Germany, many members of the design by Peter Eisenman. All Jewish schools and institutions Jewish community fled to the west. were closed down, the Jewish As a result, the Jewish community of community was disbanded, Jewish East Berlin was almost non-existent, 9 Schöneberg General Information Schöneberg General Information 10
  7. 7. History History The puzzle of the Berlin Wall punishable by death. There was the historic port in Cape Town, South 21 different countries; previously it nothing the Western Berlin police Africa; the entrance of the Basilica was only allowed for West Germans. An anti-capitalistic protective barrier could do to stop this. Fatima Sanctuary in Portugal; The Gallery is not just for the artistic with concrete pads, barbwire and the Vatican garden; the 6km long exploration of the Wall’s demise, but watchtowers held the East German A sad chapter in German history was green stream Cheonggyecheon in for the memory of the dead refugees. population from running away. put to an end when the Wall was South Korean city of Seoul; the EU During the Wall’s 20th anniversary torn down in 1989, and as a result “A wall is a hell of a lot better than Parliament in Belgium; as well as former artists were brought to the the unification of Germany ensued. war,” declared John F. Kennedy upon places in Strasbourg, Riga, London, capital city to remove the traces Of over 100 watchtowers three hearing about the construction of Canberra and Montréal. The biggest of the last 18 years. The graffiti are kept. Even some of the former the Berlin Wall. Wall piece outside of Germany is has suffered extensive damage border crossings Nevertheless, located in “Freedom Park” near due to visitors and attacks from are still clearly for about Arlington, Virginia. Mauerspechten (wall woodpeckers). recognizable, with 28 years the A €2.5 million renovation is underway the most well- The well-known East Side Gallery was 160km long and should be ready by Autumn known transition painted in 1990 by 118 artists from wall encased a at Checkpoint whole nation. Charlie. Between 1949 The wall was and 1961, broken up and 2.5million the remaining p e o p l e sections becoming escaped from memorials and the German museums for the Democratic Republic (DDR) by trying fallen. The Todesstreifen (death to get over the wall, or hiding in zone) can still be seen in many traffic that was allowed to go through places. Some have been left as the barriers. The accurate number of large areas of brown, uncultivated people who were shot down when land, while other parts have been they tried to escape varies according turned into parks. The pieces of to different sources. Many memorials wall that were torn down and give an account of the GDR fugitives’ demolished were sent to museums tragic destiny: bleeding to death and universities across the world, after being shot by border patrol and made into souvenirs for tourists. soldiers. Escape from the German republic was classified as treason, Wall sections decorate, for example, 11 Schöneberg General Information Schöneberg General Information 12
  8. 8. History History 2009. The maintenance of the wall should definitely go to the following BEARLIN Capital of the furry teddies plays a major role, since it is both places. They will clear all important an important monument to the questions and satisfy your thirst for Looking back on Berlin’s reunification, as well as a Certificate knowledge. history begs the question of European and world culture. of how the bear became its symbol. Unfortunately Anyone can acquire a valuable City Museum of Berlin it is not clear what was memory in the form of a piece of the here first; Berlin or the Wall. Pieces come in different sizes, Am Köllnischen Park 5 bear. It wasn’t until 1280 which are also available online, up U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Jannowitzbrücke when the bear became the to $150. However, if you want to see Tel: +49 3 024 002 159 heraldic animal of Berlin. more than just a 2x2cm piece, the Tue, Thu-Sun 10am-6pm Today its image is still opportunity as a tourist in Berlin is Wed 12-8pm used for advertisements huge: at Potsdamer Platz, Pariser Price: €4 on different logos, Platz next to the Brandenburger certifications, Gate, in Mauerpark along Bernauer Haus am Checkpoint Charlie newspapers, publications, Strasse (National Monument, U agencies, stamps and Bernauerstr.) and in Mühlenstraße U-Bahn: Stadtmitte or Kochstraße even more in and around with the longest preserved part of Tel: +49 302 537 250 Berlin. The bear even the wall about 1.3km. Mo- Su 9am- 8pm became a permanent part Price: €7.50-12.50 Those interested in the history of of the city’s flag in 1908. the GDR and the fall of the Wall Chapel of Reconciliation Berlin bear art is scattered all over the city in the Bernauerstr. 4 form of sculptures, plastic Tel: +49 304 636 034 models and architecture, Service to remember the victims most of which are hidden (Sunday 10am) amongst the less tourist- Tue-Sun 10am-5pm prone areas. Some have also just been rebuilt Topographie of Terror after they got eliminated or damaged during the Niederkirchnerstr. 8 Nazi regime. Today, Tel: +49 3 025 450 950 especially in Prenzlauer Oct-Apr 10am-6pm, May-Sep 10am- Berg, there are many furry 13 Schöneberg General Information Schöneberg General Information 14
  9. 9. History History inhabitants decorating the appear as feared creatures but rather Some of the bear art pieces are also streets. In the middle of as cute clumsy bears, which delight used for charity. In 2001 Eva Herlitz the public Volkspark lives the pedestrians who pass over the had the idea to paint bear sculptures, the most colorful bear bridge. Around this area small cafes sell them at auctions and give the in Berlin. He was born in and a cozy restaurant at the Spree money to UNICEF and other children 1970 and fell pray to some River invite everybody to sit down aid organizations. In this way they graffiti artists in the last and relax. could donate more than two million couple of years. However dollars in the last eight years. Jackie One of the most important bear art they decided to keep him Chan even brought the idea of the pieces is W. Sutkowski’s refurbished blue and call him Käpt’n United Buddy Bears to Hong Kong. fountain, which was rebuilt after Blaubär (Captain Blue Everybody can support this project, being destroyed during World War bear) which is now a great take part in the competition and II. Sutowski made his artwork out attraction for children maybe get the chance to give a of red Lava Tuff stone which gives who know this bear from buddy bear a new fur colour. it an interesting pattern. This TV. fountain is decorated with one bear If you want to get a shot of this At the Moabiter Bridge in the center and eight smaller bears famous Berlin symbol- just keep your (Bartningallee) there around, almost as if the mother bear eyes open and wherever you may go are four different bears is watching her children frolic. you will always find a bear. designed by four sculptors each at a different location. The bridge was built between 1893 and 1894 and was rebuilt due to war damage between 1980 and 1981. The stone bears are positioned on all fours and appear to be giant when standing in front of them, their huge paws and enormous claws making them appear even larger. Their bodies look big and round, nevertheless they do not 15 Schöneberg General Information Schöneberg General Information 16
  10. 10. Survival Guide Survival Guide B erlin is a lovely place to see and explore, but just to make your visit that much more enjoyable, we’ve gathered some useful information to help • • Take carrier bags with you to the supermarket to avoid being charged. There is often a deposit or pfand on bottles from both supermarkets and bars. If your bottle says Pfand zuruck or Pfand Flasche you can take it you get by in the city. to the supermarket recycling machine, which gives you a slip to take to Culture and etiquette the counter and get your money back. Most bars will tell you if your glass needs to be returned to get your deposit back. Berlin generally has a laid back and accepting attitude to most things, although there is an • It’s best to carry cash – few places accept travellers’ cheques and credit underlying sense of respect for rules and authority. cards. • Jaywalking is both illegal and frowned upon - Transport offenders will more frequently be reprimanded The city has a well integrated and by onlookers than the police. efficient public transport network. • Although a smoking ban was recently At first glance it may appear quite introduced to the city, most people don’t adhere to it, especially in bars. complex, but the interconnecting It is best to ask before you light up. suburban (S-Bahn) and underground (U-Bahn) trains aided by the tram and • Service charges in bars/restaurants are normally included in the bill, bus services ensure you won’t be left although it is quite common to round up to the nearest euro in most cases. stranded. Useful tips The U-Bahn service closes between • For a quick view of the main Berlin area, bus routes 100 and 200 are midnight and 5am, although the U1 and U9 run an overnight service during double-decker buses that take you Museum Island, Unter den Linden, the the weekends. The S-Bahn runs every ten to 20 minutes. Buses wind down at Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag, the Tiergarten, and Kaiser-Wilhelm- midnight, but offer an alternative night service. Most trams stop overnight Gedächtniskirche. Get a map from the BVG Pavillon on Hardenbergplatz. where other transport is good, otherwise they run a limited night service. • Some museums stay open late on Thursdays and offer free entry from 6pm. Although it might be tempting to not buy a ticket, You can also get a three day museum pass for a reduced rate. undercover inspectors often make spot checks and hand out fines of €40 – better to be safe than sorry! • Tip and Zitty are fortnightly entertainments guides, with concert, venue and exhibition information. These are If you buy single tickets, make sure you validate them available from all newsagents. They are in German, but the before your journey. nightlife lists are easy to decipher. Cycling in Berlin • Recycling is taken quite seriously – look out for If you abhor public transport, can’t stand rush hour traffic separate bins for plastic and glass. and just want to feel the wind in your hair, then why 17 Schöneberg General Information Schöneberg General Information 18
  11. 11. Survival Guide Survival Guide don’t you cycle in Berlin? It’s flatter days, but if you are spending a few markets are quite cheap. • Keep a good lookout when riding than London and less chaotic than weeks or longer in Berlin it is well- alongside pedestrians or cars. Both • Look before walking across a bike Amsterdam. With over 800kms of flat worth investing your money in a bike. can be dangerous and you’re in the path. Sometimes cyclists look for land, parks, gardens and bike routes, worst position to go flying. The average price to rent is €15 per someone to get angry with and will look no further than Berlin’s cycling day, and most places will hold onto verbally lash out. • Enjoy riding around Berlin. It is network. a cash deposit or your passport until good fun, keeps you fit and gets you • Buy a bike ticket if you need to take Many hostels will recommend or rent you bring the bike back. around with a lot less stress. your bike on an S-or U-Bahn (outside out bikes from a few hours to a few The best place to look for second- of rush hour). Bikes are free when hand bikes are flea-markets, you have a monthly ticket. particularly Mauer Park, • Get off your bike and walk in busy where you can pick up a areas, or ride on the road. bike for as little as €40. Fat Tire Bike Tours Important Information If you are hardcore and bring or buy your own bike, Panorama Str 1a. U-Bahn: it’s best to remember the Alexanderplatz. Tel: + 49 30 24 04 79 91. Sun-Sat 9.30am-6pm (-8pm Apr following, whether biking or 16 – Sep 30). walking: The perfect combination of getting to know Berlin and getting active is • Remember that traffic is to combine a city tour with a bike. You get to cover more space in less on the right-hand side of time than a walking tour, and it’s more fun than being stuck on a bus. the road. Bike paths, even You will ride along Unter den Linden, through the Brandenburg Tor and on the footpath, also follow past the Reichstag. Stops are made at all the main sights for your happy this rule. snaps, and the guides will give you all the history and stories about each • Buy a pump and tyre repair place. kit, or at least know a few There are also topic tours on Nazi Germany and the Third Reich, the locations of Bike Doctors, Berlin Wall and Cold War, and a day trip to Potsdam. Fat Tire also rent just in case. There is a lot of out bikes (another rental-only shop is located at Zoo Station), provide broken glass on the streets Segway tours and offer computer and laundry services. in Berlin. • Get a good lock. The flea 19 Schöneberg General Information Schöneberg General Information 20
  12. 12. Survival Guide Survival Guide Airports done in a number of ways: online; Useful words/phrases telephone; or the olde traditional Tegel Airport way…visit the hostel and book a Tel: +49 1 805 000 186 bed there and then. Booking online however is quick, simple and often English German Tegel is 8km from the city centre, Yes, No Ja, Nein cheaper. You could book via the which is easy and cheap to reach hostel’s website, but we recommend Please Bitte by bus. The number 109 stops at using hostel search engines such You’re welcome Bitte Zoologischer Station, or you can as It is one of catch the U-Bahn. Thank you Danke the easiest search engines to use, Schönefeld even for technophobes. Search by Good Morning Guten Morgen Tel: +49 1 805 000 186 area, price or browse the customer Good Day Guten Tag Entrance Eingang ratings to find the best hostel for South of the city centre, Bus 171 Good Evening Guten Abend Exit Ausgang you. Keep an eye out for discounts can take you from the airport to when booking online. Goodbye Tschüss I would like... Ich möchte... Flughafen Berlin Schönefeld railway (informal) Do you speak Sprechen Sie station. From there you can catch How to pay: Most hostels prefer cash on arrival but each is different so Goodbye Auf English? Englisch? the S-Bahn or the fast regional trains (formal) Wiedersehen keep that in mind when browsing. 1 eins into the city, 20kms away. A small deposit is required when How are you? Wie geht es 2 zwei Accommodation Information booking over the internet to ensure (formal) Ihnen? 3 drei your bed is held, and is especially How are you? Wie geht’s? Berlin has a number of hostels that 4 vier worth doing during busy holiday (informal) provide all the necessary facilities: periods (May to September). 5 fünf bed linen; lockers; internet/WIFI; Today Heute laundry facilities; plus added bonuses Tomorrow Morgen 6 sechs like leisure and entertainment 7 sieben Yesterday Gestern facilities – bar; games room; TV room; 8 acht and cheap breakfasts. Sometimes Excuse me Entschuldigung these are free or you may have to Where is...? Wo ist...? 9 neun pay a small fee. It’s a good idea to How, When, Wie, Wann, 10 zehn go through these offers and decide Why? Warum? 20 zwanzig what is important to you and what Women’s toilets Damen/Frauen 50 fünfzig you can do without. Men’s toilets Herren/Männer 100 ein hundert Booking a bed is easy and can be 21 Schöneberg General Information Schöneberg General Information 22
  13. 13. Day Trips Day Trips Day trips out of Berlin Potsdam When you just need some time out S-Bahn: 7. Potsdam Hauptbahnhof from the hustle and bustle of crazy for regional trains. city life, hop on a train and see Only twenty minutes by train, what the end of the line holds. From Potsdam has just as much history as castles to beaches and even film Berlin. With the royal Park Sanssouci studioes, Berlin’s surroundings are and the film park Babelsberg, there just as fun as the inner city. are many activities to fill your time. Historically Potsdam has been around since AD 993, although it was bombed heavily during World War II. Potsdam is a small town and the main street is your average cafe and shopping strip. A lot of buildings are also being rebuilt. Wander a little further and you will find the original Brandenburger Tor, smaller but still impressive. The royal palace - Schloss Sanssouci - was home to Schloss Sanssouci, built between Spend some time wandering the the Kings of Prussia until 1918. The 1745 and 1747, is flanked on either palaces and grounds. There are 700 important Potsdam Conference was side by smaller palaces one for acres of park to explore, picnic, and held at Cecilienhof, where the Allies paintings and one for guests. King be surprised in. all met to discuss how to deal with Friedrich’s summer palace stands Head back to town and take in Germany after World War II. above four layers of steps, gardens the film park Babelsberg. This was and greenhouses – these were When you walk from town, take the where many films, including those of built into the walls to protect the back entrance into Park Sanssouci. the silent era and Nazi propaganda hundreds of fig trees during winter. Walk through Friedenskirche, Church were produced. It is still an active Maybe they were a personal favourite of Peace, where the view between and important part of European film of Friedrich the Great? the concrete pillars will make you production. Some of the more recent feel like Alice in Wonderland, looking Hike over to the Orangerie, a palace films produced there include The out into a splash of colour with the built to house foreign royalty and Pianist, 2001; The Bourne Trilogy; lake, trees and flowers in full bloom. guests, and climb to the top for a view Valkyrie, 2008; and The Reader, overlooking the whole of Potsdam. 2008. 23 Schöneberg General Information Schöneberg General Information 24
  14. 14. Day Trips Day Trips Freibad Müggelsee water is natural and flat. It’s great there to gawk will be treated with for €2-5. On a sunny day it can get for throwing a ball around and some hostility, so make sure you’re quite busy, so head there early to Fürstenwalder Damm 838, playing horse with your friends. As ready to fully participate in this claim a spot. Rahnsdorf. Tel: +49 0 306 487 777. the beach does get quite crowded, aspect of German culture if you S-Bahn: Friedrichshagen, Tram 61: If you can’t beat your sightseeing especially on sunny weekends, choose to visit the nudist area. Strandbad Müggelsee. May-Sept addiction, nearby is the Allied getting there early to claim a prime 9am-6pm. Cost: €4; €2 reductions. Krumme Lanke museum, good for a visual sun-bathing spot is recommended. understanding of the Berlin Airlift Though not Berlin’s most central From Alexanderplatz, the trip takes S-Bahn: Schlachtensee. Lake: Open and American presence in the city swimming area, this is a perfectly about 45 minutes. all day, every day; free. during much of the 20th century. pleasant sunny day outing. With The Freikörperkultur (nudist) Also close by is the Wannsee Villa, Allied Museum: www. volleyball and basketball courts, section of the beach is separated where the Nazis mapped out the U-Bahn: Oskar- snacks and drinks for sale, and a from the Freibad (open-air bathing fate of Europe’s Jews in the 1930s. Helena-Helm. Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun restaurant close by, this inland beach area) by 200m of forest. If you’re All in all an enjoyable day out worth 10am-6pm. on the north shore of East Berlin’s interested in experiencing some of having if just to see another side to biggest lake boasts a large sun- Germany’s nudist culture get off Wannsee Villa at Am Grossex the multifaced city. bathing and swimming area. the tram at Fürstenwalder Damm/ Wannsee 56-58. Haus der Wannsee Müggelseedamm for the FKK section Konferenze: Mon-Sun Although a sandy forefront, the of the beach. Tourists who are just 10am-6pm; free. To get there, catch Bus114 from Wannsee, get off at stop “Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz”. If you’re looking for a change from the busy and hectic city centre, a short trip to Schlachtensee Station is a great way to spend a relaxing (and free!) day out. Only a 100 metre walk from the station, Krumme Lanke is surrounded by the trees of the Grunewald Forest and can provide the tranquillity and rest your feet so much desire. It’s possible to swim, row and walk around in the area, and you can grab lunch from a cheap but cheerful café next to the station. Currywurst, bratwurst and more go 25 Schöneberg General Information Schöneberg General Information 26
  15. 15. Day Trips Day Trips S a c h s e n h a u s e n thought-provoking and encompasses that the Nazis deemed as racially the GDR the remains of some 10,000 Concentration Camp and the many horrors of recent German or biologically inferior such as prisoners were found in mass graves. history. homosexuals and Jews. The extensive horrors which took Memorial place at Sachsenhausen during the The camp was built in 1936 under During this period, tens of thousands www.gedehstaette-sachsenhausen. Nazi and GDR years are memorialised Reichsfuhrer SS Heinrich Himmler died at the camp from starvation, de. Memorial and Museum by the national monument that as a model for future concentration forced labour, mistreatment and Sachsenhausen. Straße der towers over the grounds. camps. Between 1936 and 1945 extermination. Soviet Nationen 22, Oranienberg. S-Bahn: more than 200,000 people were and Polish forces The barren landscape Orianenberg. Tel: +49 33 012 000. interned at Sachsenhausen. Initially, liberated the camp on and the original barracks, Daily 8.30am-6pm. Admission free. the majority of these prisoners April 22, 1945 - sadly prison and security fencing Reminders of Berlin’s turbulent past were political opponents of Hitler’s however, 300 of the are eerily suggestive of are all over the city, however a visit to government: communists, social remaining inmates died the extensive suffering Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp democrats and trade unionists. This from malnutrition and which occurred. In near Oranienberg is particularly soon widened to include anyone illnesses before they had particular the grim the chance to leave. The sights of the mortuary, mass grave in which these living quarters and prisoners are interred is infirmary invite visitors to a particularly distressing contemplate experiences part of the camp. of the prisoners. Invest in the audio guide for €3 The horrors of in order to fully grasp Sachsenhausen did not the harrowing historical cease after the fall of the importance of the site. Nazis. From August 1945 First-hand accounts the Soviet secret police displayed in the museums reopened the camp for and played on the audio the detention of their guide serve to emphasise own political prisoners the traumatic effect and war criminals; Hitler’s fascist rule had on this included anyone millions of lives. suspected of opposition. By 1950 more than 60,000 prisoners A visit to Sachsenhausen is an eye- of war, suspected former Nazis and opening experience which reiterates Soviet political dissenters, were the cold reality of World War II and incarcerated there. After the fall of the subsequent Soviet regime. 27 Schöneberg General Information Schöneberg General Information 28
  16. 16. Mitte Information Unter den Linden is one of Berlin’s Platz is perhaps one of the busiest most famous Boulevards, a 1.5km- places found in Berlin. Cluttered with long stretch panning east from the shops, a central station and various Brandenburg Gate up to Museum fountains, it is something to be seen Island. Developed as a showpiece if only for the novelty. And of course, since the 18th it is home to century, where the communist it was then commissioned TV used as a horse- Tower - a great riding route landmark to to Tiergarten, locate yourself the road has with when lost. become a Pretty much gallery for deserted during some of Berlin’s the GDR era, greatest sights. the Spandauer Museum Island Vorstadt has been is a must see, overtaken by with some of squatters, artists the worlds and anyone finest art and sculpture. Whilst with a flair for renovation. Its focal in the area, a quick diversion point lies in Hackeschen Markt and to the governmental quarter of the bustling streets surrounding it, Berlin is defiantly worthwhile. The crammed with busy (and expensive) Spreebogen, a horseshoe shaped restaurants and shops. The area to bend of the Spree River, houses the west – Grosse Hamburger Strasse several buildings running in an east- and the touristy Oranienburger west direction to symbolically tie the Strasse – formed the heart of Berlin’s two halves of the city together. The pre-war Jewish district. At the end Reichstag, situated in the middle of of Oranienburger Strasse lies the this unison, is a favourite amongst graffiti-covered Tachles, an anarchic visitors, as the glass dome gives 1990s artists’ squat still preserved as spectacular views across the city. such today, providing a good starting point for Berlin’s nightlife. Nicknamed ‘Alex’ by locals, Alexander 29 Mitte Mitte 30
  17. 17. Arts & Culture Arts & Culture Today, the Gate serves as a tourist a symbolic central point of Europe, must-see, with families and with trains coming from Rome and travellers posing for photos in front Copenhagen, Moscow and Paris. of the impressive structure. Hop on any one of the S-Bahn lines Berlin Hauptbanhof going through this station and you will get a great tour of the main sights Europaplatz 1. of Mitte, including the Reichstag, Nicknamed the “glass cathedral” the Spree and the Siegessäule. If you by locals, this central station offers don’t have a need to travel, simply not only an easy route to almost a quick trip here to look around is anywhere in Berlin and Europe, worthwhile as the architecture is but also a master class in glass and remarkable. steel architecture. The Gothic-style construction was built primarily Brandenburg Gate torch-lit marches; and with the wall for the 2006 football World Cup, enclosing the Gate in the Eastern and hosts many shops, eateries and Pariser Platz, S-Bahn: Unter den sector in 1961, it soon became a Linden, Bus 100/200. meeting points one would expect in symbol of the city’s division. Nearby such a large station. Designed by Carl Gotthard Langhans observation posts became a hot spot and built in 1791, the Brandenburg for visiting politicians, including Designed by two Hamburg-based Gate has become a focal point in Kennedy and Thatcher, giving them architects, Meinhard von Gerkan and Berlin’s turbulent history. Originally, a rare glimpse at life on the other Volkin Marg, it has become Europe’s it was recognised as a symbol of side. biggest train hub, boasting a capacity German solidarity, as it looks out onto of 300,000 travellers, running on Sitting on top of the Gate is the 1,100 trains per day. Unlike other the impressive Siegessäule, marking equally historic Quadriga, the horse- Prussian military victories. With stations in Berlin and across Europe, drawn chariot that was once snatched its cleanliness and peacefulness are many of Berlin’s main roads leading up by Napoleon and relocated to towards it, the Gate is something dominant, with little to no graffiti or France (only to be returned to its rubbish in sight. almost impossible to miss. original home a few years later). The The site has witnessed many GDR also did its own fiddling with the Since its initial drawing-board stages, important events in Berlin’s history, statue, including the removal of the the station was always planned including being a meeting place for cross and it being turned around to to observe a north-south, east- revolutionaries in 1848 ad 1918; a face the West during the cold-war west axis, cutting through the long favoured rallying point for the Nazis’ era. circle line. This axis now serves as 31 Mitte Mitte 32
  18. 18. Arts & Culture Arts & Culture Neue Wache Teeming with important historical the building isn’t packed with Nikolaiviertel (New Guard House) sites, Unter den Linden is indisputably tourists. fascinating yet sometimes (St Nicholas Quarter) Unter den Linden 4. S-Bahn: Unter Bombing from the Second World War exhausting. The Neue Wache (or New U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. Combined den Linden. Daily 10am – 6pm. left the building scarred, and as a Guard House) is perfect for quiet ticket for Nikolaikirche, Knoblaus- Entrance Free. result, in need of serious repair. From contemplation: a momentary repose Haus and Ephraim-Palais: €3-5. Free 1960, the GDR restored the building, amidst a hectic day of sightseeing. Wednesdays. renaming it “Memorial to the Victims The mourning sculpture by Käthe of Fascism and Militarism”. Inside the A short walk from bustling Kollwitz stands alone in the centre chamber, an eternal flame burned. Alexanderplatz one finds a quiet of the room, as a powerful symbol of In 1969 the Neue Wache housed the square centred around the the emotional torment that ensued remains of an Unknown Soldier and Nikolaikirche and Nikolaikirchplatz. after the Second World War. concentration camp prisoner. In Although the so-called Nikolaiviertel It was the first building designed by 1993, after German reunification, appears to be one of the last the important German architect Karl the hall was declared as the “Central remainders of medieval Berlin, aside Friedrich Schinkel in Berlin (1816- Memorial of the Federal Republic of from the Nikolaikirche, founded in 1818). It notably emphasizes the Germany”. Having been described as 1240, most of the original buildings popular German Neo-Classical style a “monumentally void interior hall”, in this area were either destroyed by of architecture, which swept through the Neue Wache is nonetheless bombing or pulled down during the Germany in the 19th century. Until worth a visit for its atmospheric and 1930s and Soviet era. In a small twist the end of the monarchy in 1918, emotional resonance. of irony, many buildings were rebuilt the Neue Wache functioned as the in 1987 by the GDR government royal guard house. Since then, this Fernsehturm to look like the originals, using compact, yet simultaneously stately w w w. b e r l i n e r f e r n s e h t u r m . d e . photographs from the 1920s as building has served as a memorial for Panoramastrasse 1a. U-Bahn: reference. victims of war. Alexanderplatz. Tel: +49 2 423 333. For historic interest, there is a series The German architect Heinrich Mar-Oct 9am-12am, Nov-Feb 10am- of placards on various buildings Tessenow first made changes to 12am. Price: €4.50-9.50. in the area giving information on the building in 1930-31, creating a Towering above Berlin, the personalities who lived there or “Memorial for Those Who Fell in the Fernsehturm or T.V. tower serves as events which took place. In terms of Great War”. He inserted the oculus a beacon for visitors and locals alike museums, there is the Nikolaikirche, in the centre of the ceiling, through to orientate themselves, since it can the Knoblaus-Haus and the Ephraim- which light filters into the dark be seen from all corners of the city. Palais, together offering a fairly chamber, creating an atmospheric The structure offers 360˚ views of comprehensive portrait of Berlin’s Neue and almost eerie sensation – when Berlin with a rotating café on the history from its foundation to the 33 Mitte Mitte 34
  19. 19. Arts & Culture Arts & Culture nineteenth century. the cross remained. The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe This is a neighbourhood that plays Stresemannstraße 90. Tel: +49 3 026 394 311. on its medieval heritage as much as Memorial: Accessible at any time. Information Centre: Apr-Sep 10am-8pm, possible, from cafés proclaiming to Oct-Mar 10am-7pm. Admission free. have been established in the 13th century, to antiquarian booksellers The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is one of the largest in the city taking advantage of the archaic and consists of 2,711 concrete blocks covering 19,000 square metres. Each atmosphere. However, there is block varies slightly in height and is built on unevenly sloping ground. The an obvious attempt to cash in on memorial is accessible from all sides, allowing visitors to find their own path this – you will find a lot of souvenir through the grid pattern, although there are specially marked routes through shops around Nikolaikirchplatz and the memorial for wheelchair users. the restaurants tend to be a little The Information Centre, located under the south-east corner of the memorial, overpriced. The square also backs gives an explicit and emotional account of Jewish persecution between onto the river which offers more 1933 and 1945. Photographs, restaurants and a nice spot to eat or personal accounts and biographies rest. emphasise the harsh reality of upper floor, completing one rotation the harassment, expulsion, and every 30 minutes. extermination of entire families. Here you can find information The Fernsehturm is 368m high and that documents the geographic was completed in 1969. The tower spread of genocide as well as being was built with the intention of presented with the number of demonstrating how technologically victims from each occupied country advanced the East was. This symbol further highlighting the extent of of progress became a source of these horrific events. There is also embarrassment for the German a room where visitors can search government. When hit with direct for victims’ names in a database sunlight, the tower creates the that contains more than three reflection of a cross, the same million entries. symbol the government had tried so hard to banish. The West Germans Although admission is free, audio called this “the Pope’s Revenge” guides available for €3. If you visit since all crosses had been removed on a Sunday at 4pm you can take from East German churches. No the guided tour, in English, also at matter what the East Germans did, a cost of €3. 35 Mitte Mitte 36
  20. 20. Arts & Culture Arts & Culture Hamburger Bahnhof and the strong association Beuys works on display from pop arts front had with some of the art world’s man Andy Warhol, including ‘Mao’ w w w. s m b . m u s e u m / s m b / h b f / . most unconventional and reputable (1973). The real gems are found in U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. artists. the quotes scattered around from the Tel: +49 3 039 783 411. Open: charismatic and controversial Joseph Tues-Sun:10am-6pm. Price: €6/€3 A modest glimpse into the bizarre Beuys, the clashing placement of concession. and borderline ridiculous nature life-like pieces opposing walls of of contemporary modern art itself, An abstract collection of works, absurdity, and the general conceited the gallery undeniably reeks of from German artist and theorist nature of many of the passing inspiration and creativity that either Joseph Beuys to Andy Warhol, visitors. inspires or repels the passing masses. are displayed beneath the roof of Although guaranteed to split the Neue Synagoge this former railway station turned contemporary art museum. Open opinions of visitors, the collection is (New Synagogue) well worth a look if not for ‘what is’ since 1996, the surreal collection displayed then ‘why’ it is displayed., Oranienburger has been in the making since the Str 28-30. U-Bahn/S-Bahn: mid 1970’s, and highlights both the Most visitors pop in for a quick Oranienburger Tor or Friedrichstr. and damaged, this synagogue was limitless boundaries of abstract art glimpse of the numerous original Tel. 030 880 28 316. Sun-Thurs salvaged by Wilhelm Krutzfeld, the 10am-6pm, Fri: 10am-5pm. Closed district police chief of the time, on Saturdays and Jewish Holidays. who forced the arsonists to leave Cupola open to visitors April- claiming it was under protection as September. Price: €1-5. a city landmark. The New Synagogue of Berlin with Although services continued its golden cupola rises high above afterwards until 1940, it was then the center of the city. Though it has taken over and used as a storage faced desecration and destruction, place for uniforms. Consequently in it still remains a city landmark. Built 1943, the synagogue was bombed by in 1866, the synagogue was once the the Allied Forces, severely damaging center of Jewish worship housing it. In 1958, the destroyed main hall over 3000 congregants. was torn down, only the front of the The rise of the Nazis, though, building remaining. hindered this community. During the However in 1988, the main dome November 1938 pogroms, known as and the two corner towers were Reichs-Kristallnacht, a night where restored to look exactly as they most Jewish sites were vandalized 37 Mitte Mitte 38