Obliphica Color Training


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Obliphica Color Training

  2. 2. Content• Information about the brand – pg3• General Information – pg5• First coloration – pg10• Hilifting – pg12• Rivertive Pigmentation – pg16• Semi permanent color – pg18• Color Circle – pg19• Lightening – pg28• Color Theory – pg29• Troubleshooting – pg38Color Training August 20102
  3. 3. German-Swiss Brand Exclusive for professionals Since 2008 in Germany 1999 started in Switzerland Obliphica Cream Colors offers: High coverage & extended durability Pronounced color fastness Effective shine & careColor Training August 20103
  4. 4. Ingredients •Aqua, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Propylen Glycol, Ammonia, Lanolin Alcohol, Paraffinum Liquidum, Buxus Chinensis, Cera Alba, Silk Amino Acids, EDTA, Sodium Sulfite, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Perfum, Anisyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Saliycylate, Citronellol, Coumarin, Farnesol, Geraniol, Linalol •May contain: Toluylene-2,5-Diamin Sulfate, Resorcinol, m-Aminophenol, p-Aminophenol, o-Aminophenol, 1,5-Naphthalenediol, 2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol HCl, 1-Naphthol, 4-Amino-2-Hydroxytoluene, N,N-Bis(2-Hydroxy-ethyl)-p- Phenylendiamin Sulfate, 2-Amino-6-Chloro-4-Nitrophenol, 4-Amino-m-cresol, p-Phenylendiamine, HC Red 3, 3-Methyl-4- Aminophenol, 2-Amino-3-Hydroxypyridine, 2,6-Dihydroxyethyl-Aminotoluene, 2-Amino-4-Hydroxyethylaminoanisol, 4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-3- Nitrophenol •3 Component – System: Care Phase, Oil Phase, Carrier Phase with pigmentsColor Training August 20104
  5. 5. General Information aboutIngredients• Ammonia ensures better penetration into the cuticle• Carrier Phase guarantees an even supply of pigments• Care Phase gives softness and sheen• Special ingredients, like Jojoba oil, Beeswax and Silk proteins• Oil Phase encapsules the hair shaft and holds the pigments in the cuticle.Color Training August 20105
  6. 6. General InformationProduction• Made in Germany• Guidelines of Good-Manufacturing-Practice (GMP)• Production with state-of-the-art technology and well educated professional staff• Quality control prior and during production process• Finished products are subject to a systematic quality controlColor Training August 20106
  7. 7. General Application• Do not wash hair prior to treatment• Perform sensibilisation test• Protect body and clothes by appropriate measures (gloves, apron, wrap)• Use colors under metal free conditions!Color Training August 20107
  8. 8. General Application• Mix Cream Colors with Creme-Oxidizer to a homogenous mixture• Apply mixture with a brush strand by strand down to the ends• Avoid contact with scalp• Chose quantity of product mixture depending on the length of the hair to be coloredColor Training August 20108
  9. 9. Warning and Security Advice• Perform skin sensibilisation test behind the ear of the customer• Dye hair of customers only if they do not show any allergic symptoms after 48 hours• Only for professional use• Product can cause allergic reactions• At eye contact rinse with plenty of water• Not for use on eyebrows and eyelashes• Wear proper gloves• Keep out of reach of children• Do not use on injured scalp (scratches, scrape)• Do not use after a perm has been applied• Bleeding and stains on textiles are possibleColor Training August 20109
  10. 10. First Coloration General mixing ratio Obliphica Cream colors with cream oxidizer: 1:1 20 Vol. / 6% Oxidizer => color tone on tone, 1 tone lightening or 1 tone darker coloring 30 Vol. / 9% Oxidizer => lightening of 2-3 tonesColor Training August 201010
  11. 11. Application time at global tinting: tone on tone or 1 tone darker: apply Cream Colors immediately from hairline to hair-ends – let stay on hair for 30-40 minutes. Lightening: apply Cream Colors first on to the hair lengths and hair-ends, after 20 minutes lay on Cream Colors to the hairline for additional 30-40 minutes. Tip: Use one step higher concentrated Cream Oxidizer in order to boost color intensity at hair lengths and hair-ends! (overoxidation)Color Training August 201011
  12. 12. Hilift • General mixing ratio Obliphica Cream Colors with Cream Oxidizer: 1:2 • with 9% => lightening up to 3 tones • with 12% => lightening up to 4-5 tonesColor Training August 201012
  13. 13. Hilift The steps of the lightening tinting: •Hilift 4-5 tones 1 : 2 step 5 12% •Hilift 3-4 tones 1 : 2 step 4 Special Blond 9% •Hilift 3-4 tones 1 : 1 step 3 12% •Hilift 2-3 tones 1 : 1 step 2 9% Normal coloring 1 : 1 step 1 Darker/Tone-on-tone/Hilift for 1 tone 6%Color Training August 201013
  14. 14. Hilifting Blonde coloration with Special Blonde Shades Special Blonde Range of starting color Effect/ Color Result Shades 12N Light blonde to light brown Lightest color results without additional hilift, especially suitable for dying of strands 12.1A Medium blonde to dark Slight ash reflection blonde 12.1A Light brown to dark blonde Light blonde 12.3G Dark brown to medium Warm natural gold reflection blondeColor Training August 201014
  15. 15. Hilifting Special Blonde Range of starting color Effect/ Color Result Shades 12.7NW Medium blonde to light Light blonde with beige-brownish brown reflection, good coverage 12.7NW Dark blonde Brown reflection on lightest blonde 12.81P Medium blonde to light Blonde with pearl reflection, covers brown orange shade very good 12.81P Dark blonde Light ash blonde 12.89BP Medium blonde to dark Pearl reflection, covers orange shade blonde 12.89BP Dark blonde Pearl reflectionColor Training August 201015
  16. 16. Rivertive Pigmentation •For outgrown, lightened hair or to remove lightened hair strands : The natural color tone will be maintained •Pigmentation by following working steps: - apply 1 part color + 2 parts soft conditioner (without oxidizer) - Afterward apply semi-permanent/color – time of application approx 30 minutes - Treat afterwards with Acid Balancer and Shampoo ColorColor Training August 201016
  17. 17. Rivertive Pigmentation •Use Shade 5N for Rivertive Pigmentation of dark blonde •Use Shade 3N or 4N for Rivertive Pigmentation of light brown or medium brown •Use Shade 6.3G or 7.3G for Rivertive Pigmentation for light blonde or medium blonde •Work on towel dried hair (natural hair will not take this preparation) •Afterwards use Obliphica Cream Colors as semi permanant hair colorColor Training August 201017
  18. 18. Semi permanent colorInstruction of use:• 1 part Cream Colors + 1 part Cream Oxidizer volume 6• If more nourishing treatment is necessary add Soft Conditioner with Cream Oxidizer volume 10• Time of application depending on condition of hair: 20-40 minutes• Tip: The result will be intensivized when heat is used during application timeColor Training August 201018
  19. 19. Color Circle Obliphica Color Natural Ash Golden Mix Shades Shades Shades ShadesColor Training August 201019
  20. 20. Natural 2N Shades 3N 4N 5N 6N 7N 8NColor Training August 201020
  21. 21. Natural Shades 9N 10 N 11 N 12 NColor Training August 201021
  22. 22. Ash Shades 2.1B 6.1 A 7.1 A 8.1 A 9.1 A 10.1 A 11.1 A 12.1 AColor Training August 201022
  23. 23. Golden 5.3 G Shades 6.3 G 7.3 G 8.3 G 9.3 G 10.3 G 12.3 GColor Training August 201023
  24. 24. 12.81P 11.81P 12.89BP Pearl Blonde Gold Red 6.34GR 7.34GR 8.34GR 9.34GR Red 5.4RC 6.4RC 7.4RC 8.4RCColor Training August 201024
  25. 25. Mix 0.88Blue Shades 0.33Gold 0.44Red 0.45 RM 0.66 PColor Training August 201025
  26. 26. Red Mahogany 5.45RM 6.45 RM 7.45 RM 8.45 RM Purple 3.6 BV 4.6 BV 5.6 BV 9.6 BVColor Training August 201026
  27. 27. Brown Mahogany 4.75BR 5.75BR 6.75MB 7.75MB 5.7 NW 6.7 NW Chocolate 7.7 NW 8.7 NW 9.7 NW 12.7 NWColor Training August 201027
  28. 28. Lightening Natural base colors and tone heights – the dominant melanin pigments are: 2N 6N 8N • 12N Very light blonde – Very light yellow • 9N Light blonde – Light yellow • 8N Blonde – Yellow • 7N Medium blonde – Orange/yellow • 6N Dark blonde – Orange • 5N Light medium brown – Red/orange • 4N Medium brown – Red • 3N Dark brown – Red/red • 2N Black – Red/red/redColor Training August 201028
  29. 29. Color Theory• Each color nuance comprises a combination of different pigments.• Natural tone/color depth• Primary pigments/color direction• Secondary pigments/color direction• Tertiary pigments (a combination of primary and secondary colors).Color Training August 201029
  30. 30. The primary color pigments: Yellow Red Blue The secondary color pigments: Orange (yellow + red) Violet/Mauve (red + blue) Green (yellow + blue) The tertiary color pigments: A combination of the primary pigments and the secondary pigments.Color Training August 201030
  31. 31. Three primary colors yellow The most popular basic color wheel (mainly developed by painters from the 18th century and later) red Starts with three primary colors: yellow, red and blue. These three are the basis for mixing all the other colors. Together they produce a neutral colors - usually a dark grey blueColor Training August 201031
  32. 32. When you mix the primary colors in this basic color wheel, you get secondary colors: yellow and blue produce green yellow blue greenColor Training August 201032
  33. 33. • blue and red produce violet mauve blue red violet • red and yellow produce orange. red yellow orangeColor Training August 201033
  34. 34. This leaves each primary color with a complementary color (mixed from the other two primary choices). Blue/orange, red/green and yellow/violet are complementary colors. blue orange yellow violet red greenColor Training August 201034
  35. 35. It is obvious that the colors now really begin todevelop.This gives all the fantastic nuances around thecolor wheel from greenish blues to yellowygreens. There are called ‘tertiary’ colorsComplementary colors are directly opposite eachother on the color wheel diagram. Each couplesupplement each other to produce a neutralcolor.Mix two complementary colors and you will getthe old dark grey.Color Training August 201035
  36. 36. Natural Color Pigment (Melanin) The hair’s natural color is based on melanin. Our genetic background determines the concentration. Some people have melanin in their skin and in the inner core of the hair. Melanin helps to convert the rays of the sun to energy. Melanin is the skin’s and hair’s natural color pigment and consists of three color pigments.Color Training August 201036
  37. 37. The three color pigments can be divided into three main groups: Eumelanin is bluish and the most common and is typically seen in the hair of people from Africa, Asia, Southern Europe and among Eskimos. People from South East Asia and Eskimos have the highest concentration of Eumelanin. It is therefore almost impossible to lighten this type of hair as it will take on a yellowish sheen. Pheomelanin is yellowish and is typically found among people from Scandinavia. Trichosiderin is reddish and typically found in people from England, Ireland and Scotland.Color Training August 201037
  38. 38. Troubleshooting In case color result does not provide enough coverage => possible reasons: • Cream Color was applied too thinly, e.g. single parts of the hair did get only poor or no color at all. • The application time was not adjusted to the hair type, i.e. fine hair needs less application time of approx. 20 minutes and thicker hair requires up to 45 minutes. • The color was combed away too early off the hairline in order to balance the length of hair and the hair-ends. The hair shoud be worked through only AFTER the application time.Color Training August 201038
  39. 39. Troubleshooting •Color and Cream Oxidizer weren‘t mixed thoroughly; please do always use a balance to weigh out correctly the mixing ratio. •Mixing ratio between fashion shade and natural shade tends too much towards the fashion shade •Please make sure to mix always fashion shade to natural shade in the ratio 1: 2 or 1:1Color Training August 201039
  40. 40. Troubleshooting•If an intensive red shade should be achieved for hair which is up to 30% non-pigmentedwork with a mixing ratio of fashion to natural shade of 2:1•A too high cream oxidizer was used, i.e. 30 volume instead of 20 volume•The chosen shade was too light for the white hairline; from shade 9.0 the grey coverage willnot be 100%Color Training August 201040
  41. 41. Troubleshooting Stability of red shades The stability of the red shades very much depends on the hair structure Principals to optimize the stability of red fashion shades: • Use little and a mild shampoo • Leave hair care treatment products only for a short time on the hair • Longterm goal is to achieve a good and healthy hair structure Practical advice to optimize the stability of the red shades: work with extended application time higher dyestuff supply allows the potential for highlift and a better color resultColor Training August 201041
  42. 42. THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR ATTENTION!Color Training August 201042