50s&60s
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50s&60s 50s&60s Presentation Transcript

  • The 1950s and 1960sThey are not the same, Rachel Rachel
  • Christian DiorNew Look premiered in 1947 Rounded shoulder Nipped in waist Longer hemline
  • Christian DiorSkirts are either Very Full (up to 25 yards of fabric) Tightly Fitted
  • UndergarmentsPointed bosomRounded hip Girdle Sometimes padding
  • UndergarmentsMake the Waist Smaller Waist Cincher Merry Widow Longline Brassiere
  • UndergarmentsStiffly starched or nylonpetticoat
  • New MaterialsNew materials inUndergarments Nylon Elastic yarnsLighter weight
  • New Materials“Wash and Wear”“Permanent Press” Polyester Acrylic
  • Moving to the SuburbsCasual Dress
  • Movie Stars
  • TelevisionTVs become more commonCurrent Fashion
  • Arbiters of FashionParisItalyLondonIreland
  • American DesignersMcCardellNorrelCharles JamesAdrian
  • Claire McCardell
  • Norman Norrel
  • Charles James
  • Adrian
  • 1947 - Late 1950s New Look Dominates
  • Maternity Clothes Become Fashionable
  • SportswearBathing SuitsMother/Daughter StylesOther active wear
  • OuterwearShort, full, or long Accommodate full skirts
  • Evening WearMost are shortOften straplessFull skirt
  • Popular Hair and Hats
  • Popular Shoes
  • Popular Accessories
  • Boys’ UndiesBoxers, Briefs: More Colors!
  • Men’s StylesBold Look, Grey Flannel Suit, Continental Cut
  • Men’s ShirtsBluePinkYellowWhite
  • Men’s Casual DressLeisure Time and Active Sports
  • Driving CapFedora Alpine D.A. or Duck Tail Hairstyle Pork Pie Popular Hats and Hairstyle
  • Oxford Blue Suede Loafers White Buckskin Penny Loafers Leisure Shoes Popular Footwear
  • Popular Accessories
  • Boys
  • Girls
  • Poodle SkirtsPopular among teenage girls
  • BeatniksPortrait of Jack Kerouac, by Allen Ginsberg, 1953
  • Teddy BoysPopular “Rebel” Style in Britain
  • They’re different from the 1950s
  • The New Look vs the 60s
  • Designers like Saint Laurent, Ungaro, and Cardin Trained under the fashion designers of the 50s
  • Civil Rights and Social Protest
  • Anti-War
  • Women’s Rights
  • “Street” StylesInfluence Main Stream Fashion
  • 45 “Street” Styles“Mods” “Hippies” “Anti-War Youth” “Punks”
  • c. 1960s "Andy Warhol" Campbells Soup Paper DressOp Art and Pop ArtInfluence Main Stream Fashion
  • Fiber Arts
  • First Nylon Panty Hose
  • Body Stockings, Soft Cup Bra
  • • Empire waistlines• A-Line shapes• Straight from a yoke at the shoulder.• Dresses unfitted through the torso and with a flounce joint to the hem of the dress at the knee. 50
  • Evening Dress
  • SportswearHot Pants and Hip-Huggers
  • Outerwear
  • XPant Suits
  • Evening Dresses
  • 1960’s 1960’s 1960’s Early 1970’s 1970’s 1960’s 1963Popular Hats and Hairstyles
  • Popular Shoes
  • Sun glasses Jewelry HandbagsPopular Accessories
  • 50s to 60s Style Suit The “Mod” Influence
  • The PeacockAccording to Esquire Magazine
  • The Nehru Jacket
  • Turtlenecks
  • Sportswear and the Leisure Suit
  • Blue Jeans Become Main Stream
  • For Further Study Museum and Collection Web Sites with Photographs of Period Clothing Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum. Interesting feature of “the dress of the year.” http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. http://www.camrax.com Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/20.html Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html Fashion Designers Go to web site http://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/fashionframe.html and look at pages devoted to Clai re McCardell, Norman Norell, Dior, Balenciaga,, and others active between 1947 and 1960.CHAPTER SEVENTEENTHE NEW LOOK 65Fashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • For Further Study New Look http://www.staylace.com/features/fittedfiftiesfinery/ http://www.rom.on.ca/ee/intro.html http://home.att.net/~design-house/history/history_1950.htm Manufactured Fibers http://www.fibersource.com/f-tutor/history.htm http://www.mytights.com/mytights/advice/historyofstockings.html The Young And Fashion Innovations http://www.fashion-era.com/1950s/1950s_4_teenagers_teddy_boys.htm#Teddy_Boys_or_Neo-Edwardians_CHAPTER SEVENTEENTHE NEW LOOK 66Fashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • Image Credits Photo of the Chrysler Building, Courtesy, www.rumbugger.co.uk Photo of “Diors New Look,” 1947, Photographer Willy Maywald, www.proa.org/exhibicion/moda/salas/id_willy_maywald.html Globe, Fairchild Digital Archive Vintage Vogue 1940 #2198, Courtesy, The McCall Pattern Company Vintage Vogue 1944 #2196, Courtesy, The McCall Pattern Company “Dior’s Dinner Taffeta; your own shoulders, padded hips,” Vogue, April 1947 “New Tweeds” Vogue, December 1942, page 66, from the Author’s collection Advertisement for Pink Satin Bra from Hickory, Courtesy, www.firstpr.com.au Spencer’s Catalog Advertisement for Bras and Girdles, Courtesy, www.corsetiere.net Merry Widow Warner’s Advertisement, September 1955, Ladies Home Journal, Courtesy, www.firstpr.com.au 1955 Advertisement for Briar Rose Petticoats, Courtesy, www.petticoatdreams.com Bali-hi Advertisement from Vogue, March 1, 1955, page 57, from the Authors collection Wembley Tie Advertisement, Vogue, June 1956, pages 25 and 26, from the Authors collection White Stage Advertisement, Vogue, March 1955, page 80, from the Authors collection Aerial Photo of Suburb, Courtesy, www.stulzphoto.com Movie Magazine Images, Courtesy, www.classichollywoodbios.com Donna Reed, as Donna Stone, and Patty Petersen, as her daughter, Trish Stone, in the television show "The Donna Reed Show", Library of Congress Motion Picture, Broadcasting and Recorded Sound Division, LC-DIG-ppmsca-03220 DLC Article from Women’s Wear Daily "Paris Opening Gets Under Way", July 28, 1950, from the Fairchild clipping archive "New Paris Arrivals", New York Herald, March 21, 1958, from the Fairchild clipping archive "Givenchy Holds Designer Shapes Dress, Not Wearer", Womens Wear Daily, March 21, 1958, from the Fairchild clipping archive American Flag, Fairchild Digital Archive Women’s Wear Daily Article, "Longer Suit Jackets by American Designers", September 9, 1958, from the Fairchild clipping ArchiveCHAPTER SEVENTEENTHE NEW LOOK 67Fashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • Image Credits Women’s Wear Daily Article, "Norell Projects Spheroid Shape, High Waist for Fall", July 3, 1958, from the Fairchild clipping Archive Women’s Wear Daily Article, "Adrian Designs Stage Costumes", July 9, 1958, from the Fairchild Clipping Archive Davidsons of Georgia Advertisement, Vogue 1947, from the Authors collection Davidson Atlanta Advertisement, Vogue, June 1956, page 29, from the Authors collection Davidsons of Georgia Advertisement, Vogue 1947, from the Authors collection Davidson Atlanta Advertisement, Vogue, June 1956, page 29, from the Authors collection Designs created in 1956 by Miguel Dorian of Spain, Givenchy of France, and Norman Hartnell of England, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications Cole of California Advertisement, Vogue, May 1951, pg 26, from the Authors collection Carlyon Beach Photo, Courtesy, www.eden-project.co.uk Photo of Red Coat, Vogue, October 1, 1957, page 141, from the Authors collection Harry William, Limited Advertisement, Vogue, Feburary 1950, from the Authors collection #2679 c. 1950s CEIL CHAPMAN Ecru Satin Bead and Rhinestone Dress, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com #3325 c. 1950s Organdy and Lace "Grace Kelly" Dress, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com #4350 - c. 1950s WILL STEINMAN Black and White Lace Party, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com c. 1950s Ceil Chapman Beige Strapless Taffeta Gown, , Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com c. 1950 Nettie Rosenstein Cocktail Dress, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com #4109 - c. late 1950s Metallic Brocade Bubble Dress, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com c. 1950 Nettie Rosenstein Floral Strapless Evening Gown, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com #9176a - c. 1950s REPRODUCTION PAULETTE Brown Plush Molded Hat with Original Huge Sequin and Beaded Hatpin, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com #4093 - c. 1950s Onyx Iridescent Coque Feather Hat, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com #9154 - 1950s Green Leaf and Berries Hat Band, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com #0609 - c. 1950s Pinehurst, Fifth Avenue, NY Black Straw Molded Hat with Black Velvet Trim, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.comCHAPTER SEVENTEENTHE NEW LOOK 68Fashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • Image Credits Hairstyle, Vogue, June 1956, page 95, from the Authors collection Hairstyle, Vogue, June 1956, page 96, from the Authors collection Hairstyle, Vogue, June 1956, page 97, from the Authors collection Retro Shoes, Courtesy, www.pinupgirlclothing.com 1950s White Lucite "Wilardy" Box Purse, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com 50s Fab Pink Vinyl Purse, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com 1950s Pink "Lilly Dache" Gloves, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com 50s White Gloves W/Pearls & Rhinestones, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com Cool Stripe Sunglasses, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com Pale Pink Sunglasses With Cutouts, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com #J001 - c. 1950s Ruby Red, Pink and Aurora Rhinestone Pin, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com Haskell Signed Brooch, from the inventory of Isadora’s Antique Clothing and Estate Jewelry, Seattle, WA, www.isadoras.com. Dior and Balenciaga sillouettes from 1955 Collection, Vogue Magazine, Condé Nast Publications A variety of unfitted "chemise" styles featured in Womens Wear Daily, late 1957, Courtesy Fairchild Publications A-Dress called "the trapeze", Courtesy, Butterick Pattern Archives/Library Article "Temperate Versions of New Silhouettes," Womens Wear Daily, May 13, 1958, From Fairchild clipping archive Mens Boxer Short Advertisement, Sears and Roebuck Catalog, Fall/Winter 1956-1957, pg 677, Fairchild Archives Bold Look Suit, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications Grey Flannel Suit, Vogue, March 1955, pg 148, from the Authors collection Continental Style Suit Illustration, Courtesy Fairchild Publications Shirt Advertisement from Sears and Roebuck Fall/Winter 1956-1957 Catalog, page 654, Fairchild Archive Popular sportswear items for men, Daily News Record, April 8, 1959, reproduced Courtesy, Fairchild Publications Various Men’s hats, Courtesy, www.millerhats.comCHAPTER SEVENTEENTHE NEW LOOK 69Fashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • Image Credits Fifties Blue Suede and Leather Shoes, Courtesy, www.ballyhoovintage.com Fifties Mens Leisure Shoes, Courtesy, www.ballyhoovintage.com Fifties Black Penny Loafers, Courtesy, www.ballyhoovintage.com 1950s Sun glasses by American Optical, Courtesy, www.klasik.org 1950s gold-fill frame Sun glasses, Courtesy, www.klasik.org Bow Ties and Neck Ties Advertisement, Sears and Roebuck Catalog, Fall/Winter 1956-1957, pg 460, Fairchild Archives Handkerchiefs Advertisement, Sears and Roebuck Catalog, Fall/Winter 1956-1957, pg 460, Fairchild Archives 1950s Vintage Socks, Courtesy, www.ballyhoovintage.com Boys Suits Advertisement, Sears and Roebuck Catalog, Fall/Winter 1956-1957, pg 463, Fairchild Archives Girls Dress Advertisement, Sears and Roebuck Catalog, Fall/Winter 1956-1957, pg 408, Fairchild Archives Portrait of Jack Kerouac, photograph by Allen Ginsberg, Courtesy, www.allenginsberg.org North East R&R Society Photo, photographer unknown, Courtesy, Martin Craig, http://www.nvo.com/radioland/door/CHAPTER SEVENTEENTHE NEW LOOK 70Fashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • For Further Study Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum. Interesting feature of “the dress of the year.” http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. http://www.camrax.com http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/20.html Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html Fashion Designers Go to web site http://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/fashionframe.html and look at pages devoted to fashion designers active between 1960 and 1980. Also search on names of specific fashion designers. Many firms and designers are still active and may have their own web pages.CHAPTER EIGHTEENTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIES 71Style Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • For Further Study The Young And Fashion Innovations http://www.gbacg.org/Articles/mods.pdf http://www.fiftiesweb.com/fashion/mod-fashion.htm http://www.hippy.com/php/article-120.html http://www.costumegallery.com/1960.htm http://www.fashion-era.com/punks_fashion_history1.htm http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/vivw/hd_vivw.htm http://www.arthistoryclub.com/art_history/Punk_fashionCHAPTER EIGHTEENTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIES 72Style Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • Image Credits Image copyright (c) 2004 by Philo Vivero. Image created using free tools available at http://faemalia.net/Fractals Photo of Birth Control Pills, Courtesy, www.metrokc.gov Photo of Yuri Gagarin, the first human in space, Courtesy, NASA Photo of Freedom Riders, Courtesy, Southwest Missouri State University Image of Berlin Wall, Courtesy, National Archives at College Park - Archives II (College Park, MD) Anwar Sadat, Jimmy Carter and Menahem Begin at the Camp David Accords Signing Ceremony, 09/17/1978, Courtesy, Jimmy Carter Library (Atlanta, GA) Image of UN Viewing Photos of Missile Sites in Cuba 1962, Courtesy the United Nations Photo Library Orchard with Blossoming Plum Trees, 1888, Courtesy the Web Museum, Paris Civil Rights March on Washington 1963, Courtesy, www.washingtonafra.com "A female demonstrator offers a flower to military police on guard at the Pentagon during an anti-Vietnam demonstration.", Courtesy, National Archives and Records Administration, Records of the Office of The Chief Signal Officer (111-CC-46331) "Women protest the U.S. presence in Vietnam 1969, Courtesy University Archives, Arizona State University Libraries" Betty Friedan, Photograph by World Telegram & Sun photographer Fred Palumbo. 1960, Library of Congress, Reproduction Number: LC-USZ62-20997 Kennedy, Robert. Appearing before the Platform Committee, Photograph by Warren K. Leffler, 1964, Library of Congress, Reproduction Number: LC-U9-5415-30 Presidents Family leaves Capitol after Ceremony, John F. Kennedy Library (Boston, MA) Photograph of White House Meeting with Civil Rights Leaders, June 22, 1963, 06/22/1963,John F. Kennedy Library (Boston, MA) Alan Ginsberg at the Human Be-In October 1967, Courtesy, www.summeroflove.org MARTIN LUTHER KING, JR. at a press conference at the Capitol, Washington, D.C., Photograph by Marion S. Trikosko, March 26, 1964, Library of Congress (LC-U9-11696) Alan Shepard, Apollo 11 Moon Landing, Courtesy NASA Woodstock Photo, Courtesy Alvin Lee, 1969CHAPTER EIGHTEENTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIES 73Style Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • Image Credits Photo of Earth, Courtesy NASA Kent State Shooting Aftermath, Courtesy, the Bettman Archive, UPI Peaceful Protest in Washington D.C., 1971 b/w photographs, 1971. NYU Archives Photo Collection, Courtesy New York University President and Mrs. Nixons arrival in Peking, China, Nixon reviewing troops at the airport., 02/21/1972, National Archives at College Park - Archives II (College Park, MD) Watergate Complex, National Archives at College Park - Archives II (College Park, MD) Watergate Burglers, 1972 UPI/Bettman Archive Henry Kissinger, right, shaking hands with Le Duc Tho in Paris after their agreement on the cease-fire terms of the Vietnam War, 1973, www.britannica.com Photo of Gas Station with "Sold Out Today" sign, 1973, United States Department of Energy The Supreme Court Building, United State Government Printing Office Richard Nixon departs from the White House before Gerald Ford was sworn in as President, By Oliver F. Atkins, Washington, DC, August 9, 1974, Nixon Presidential Materials Project, National Archives and Records Administration" Deng Xiaoping and Jimmy Carter at the arrival ceremony for the Vice Premier of China , 01/29/1979, Jimmy Carter Library (Atlanta, GA) Three Mile Island, Three Mile Island - April 11, 1979 (Source: NARA) Dior’s Dinner Taffeta; your own shoulders, padded hips, Vogue, April 1947 "Paris The Wow Proportions," Vogue, March 15, 1965, page 86, from the Authors collection. "The Beautiful Full Body", Givenchy, , August 3, 1962, Fairchild Publications Archives Escargo, Prêt-A-Porter, Vogue, 1967 "Try Police Not Huey" opening day Huey P Newton trial - Oakland Court house - l969, www.newsreel.us Earth Day Pin, Courtesy, www.geosound.org Photo of Earth, Courtesy NASA Hippies, http://discosantigos.com Image copyright (c) 2004 by Philo Vivero. Image created using free tools available at http://faemalia.net/FractalsCHAPTER EIGHTEENTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIES 74Style Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • Image Credits Punk Hair Styles by Peter Gennard EFIAP/p, www.theoldschoolhouse.com "Oh to be in London,” Time, April 15, 1966, pp. 34-35, General Collections, Library of Congress (283) Image of Mod Clothing, Vogue, September 1, 1965, page 197, from the Authors collection #3008 - c. 1960s "Andy Warhol" Campbells Soup Paper Dress, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com Wearable Art, Courtesy, Robert Hillstead; photographer, John Nollendorfs Designer Rudi Gernreichs "No-Bra" bra in nude tricot for Exquisite Form manufactured, 1969, , December 10, 1969, Fairchild Publications Triple Vision Pantyhose, www.vintagepantyhose.com Good Girl, Bad Girl Pantyhose, www.vintagepantyhose.com Bodysuits, July 31, 1969, Fairchild Publications Empire Waist Dress, Vogue, May 1963, page 163, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications A-Line Dress, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 133, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications Evening Dress, Vogue, March 1, 1967, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications Two Evening Dress, Vogue March 1, 1967, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications Illustrations from Womens Wear Daily, May 5, 1971, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications. Ungaro Advertisement, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 82, Courtesy, , Condé Nast Publications Julie Driscoll, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 116, Courtesy, , Condé Nast Publications Sketch form Womens Wear Daily, September 1971, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications "Buy Longuettes…Bye-Bye Minis", , September 17, 1970, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications Mila Schon, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 101, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications #3920 - c. 1965 Incredible, Hard-to-Find EMILIO PUCCI Brown Twill Print Pants Suit, www.antiquedress.com #4146 - c. 1960s EMILIO PUCCI Fabulous Silk Mini Dress/Tunic, Bellbottom Pants, and Original Tie Sash, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com Illustration of Woman in Dress for Success Look, Courtesy Fairchild Publications Vintage 70s Floral Maxi Dress with Attached Asymmetrical Scarf, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.comCHAPTER EIGHTEENTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIES 75Style Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • Image Credits Vintage 70s Bright Rose Pink Halter Maxi Dress, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.com Vintage 70s Black Evening Gown with Shimmering Sequins Bodice, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.com Vintage 60s Bias Cut Animal Print Maxi Dress with Scalloped Hem, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.com Charles de Castelbajac, Womens Wear Daily, April 7, 1976, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications #9174 - c. 1960s White Silk Dupioni Mod Hat, www.antiquedress.com #4299 - c. early 1970s CHRISTIAN DIOR from Saks Fifth Avenue Grey Wool Felt Floppy Hat with Matching Crochet Trim, www.antiquedress.com #9317 - c. 1960s MISS DIOR, by Christian Dior Off-White Chiffon Pom-Pom Beret, www.antiquedress.com #9316 - c. 1960s CHRISTIAN DIOR Chapeaux, Paris, New York Light Beige Plush Hat with Black Patent "Bow", www.antiquedress.com #9143 - 1970s Tan Leather Cap, www.antiquedress.com Purses, Wallets and Jewelry, Courtesy, www.chelsea-girl.com 1960s and 1970s Sunglasses, Courtesy, www.klasik.org Mens Underwear, Mens Wear, January 9, 1968, Courtesy Fairchild Publications 1960s Mans Suit, Daily New Record, February 14, 1967, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications Continental Style Suit Illustration, Courtesy Fairchild Publications The Nehru Suit, Courtesy, Fairchild PublicationsCHAPTER EIGHTEENTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIES 76Style Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.