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co-design explorations within fashion and textile design

co-design explorations within fashion and textile design

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Co everything part two Presentation Transcript

  • 1. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textilesRefashioning fashion: new scenarios of clothingThursday 2nd June, 2011Jen Ballie PhD StudentChelsea College of Art & Design, University of the Arts, LondonEmail: j.ballie1@arts.ac.uk
  • 2. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Contents PART 1: CO-DESIGN The Landscape PART 2: DESIGNING FOR PARTICIPATION / CASE STUDIES Alternative models PART 3: PHD RESEARCH & PRACTICE PhD Research Research Projects Future Research ExplorationsJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 3. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 1 "I believe a desirable life depends on our deliberately choosing a life of action, over a life of consumption, on our engendering a life style that will allow us to be spontaneous, independent, yet related to each other, rather than maintaining a lifestyle which only allows us to produce and consume.” Ivan Illich (1970)Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 4. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 1Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 5. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 1 1. “Co-creativity requires that one believes that all people are creative. This is not a commonly accepted belief...” 2. “When we acknowledge that different levels of creativity exist, it becomes evident that we need to learn how to offer relevant experiences to facilitate people’s expression of creativity at all levels” Liz Sanders | Make Tools (2011)Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 6. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3Workshop Title: Old is the New Black / Date: July - Dec 2010 / Location: Fashion Footprints Exhibition, Devon www.oldisthenewblack.org “By habit, we make user-friendly stuff – so simple that we never let users know how it works or what the true cost is. But we need to design agency and involvement. We need to design for inclusion, repair, co- innovation, and to involve many more stakeholders as agents and actors” Dr Otto von Busch (2010) Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 7. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 1 Co-design is a catch all term to embrace participatory design, meta design, social design and other design approaches that encourages participation... The role of the designer using the power of design for the greater good by becoming a catalyst; a facilitator, a creator and a co-author. This multidimensional role advocates participation and champions the power of design. Alistair Fuad-Luke (2010)Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 8. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 1Tools For Conviviality“Designers have been traditionally know as aesthetic finishers of ideas... Rather than serving as the reproductiveorgan of a consumer society, the designer mindset needs to be cultivated to create new methods and tools whichenable people to become empowered and willing to actively contribute to the design of their life and community.”Ivan Illich (1970)Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 9. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 1 “The notion of participatory design has the potential to identify a new role for the fashion consumer that aims to promote sustainability by shifting from global to local, from consuming to making and from illusion to imagination.” Dr Kate Fletcher (2008)Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 10. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 1 The Digital Consumer “Gen Y were Born between 1977-84 and currently spend $150 billion a year on consumer goods. That’s five times more than their parents did at their age. They also influence another $50 billion in purchases made by others. Their profound influence in the market place is directly linked to their familiarity with digital media.” L2 Lab Generation Next Forum (2010)Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 11. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 1 Collaborative Consumption and the Creative Consumer “Design not only has to sell itself in the wider world of things but needs to develop relationships with consumers.” Rachel Botsman (2011) “The meaning of value and the process of value creation are rapidly shifting from a product- and company-centric view to personalised consumer experiences. Informed, networked, empowered and active consumers are increasing co-creation value with the company.” Prahalad and Ramaswamy (2004)Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 12. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2 How might we become better owners? “People need not only the need to obtain things, they need above all, the freedom to make things among which they can live, to give shape to them according to their own tastes, and to put them to use in caring for and about others....” Ivan Illich (1970)Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 13. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participation http://nikeid.nike.com/nikeid/index.jspJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 14. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participation http://www.julianand.com Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 15. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: DIY & ParticipationJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 16. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participation Berber Soepboer http://berbersoepboer.nl Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 17. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participation Cari Marsden | London College of Fashion, MA Digital Fashion http://www.stylebubble.co.uk/style_bubble/2010/06/gonna-get-yourself-connected.html Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 18. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participation http://www.selfpassage.org/ Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 19. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participation http://www.selfpassage.org/ Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 20. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participationJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 21. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participation http://shop.sans.name/pieces/index.html http://www.burdastyle.com/blog/make-karl-lagerfelds-designsJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 22. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participation http://showstudio.com/project/designdownloadJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 23. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participation http://www.hacking-couture.com/ Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 24. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participationhttp://www.theuniformproject.com/ Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 25. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participation http://www.sweatshopparis.com/http://www.pelicanavenue.com/Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 26. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participationJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 27. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participation The Power of the Crowd: Kate Moss Collection Hits Topshop The term ‘crowdsourcing’ is the act of outsourcing tasks, traditionally performed by an exployess or contractor, to an unde ned, large group of people or community (a “crowd”), through an open call for participation (Howe, 2010).Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 28. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participation http://www.catwalkgenius.com/home.asp Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 29. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participationhttp://www.betafashion.com/ Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 30. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participationhttp://www.jaimemoncarre.com Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 31. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participation “If youre smart, you’ll be observing street innovation and applying this to inform and infuse what and how you design.” Jan Chipchase (2009)Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 32. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 2: Designing for participation To celebrate the launch of Topshops new make-up range - and nd out who really is the fairest of them all - from 5-9 May 2010 SHOWstudio.com installed a unique interactive mirror on the ground oor of Topshops Oxford Circus agship. Topshops eager crowds of fashionistas stood in front of our looking-glass to submit their style to scrutiny, as over thirty top fashion creatives - including Lady Gagas stylist Nicola Formichetti, Edward Enninful of i-D and US Vogue, make-up artist Hannah Murray and fashions favourite illustrator Julie Verhoeven - dispensed sartorial advice that appeared written, as if by magic, across the mirrors surface, recorded here in image and video. http://showstudio.com/project/mirrormirror/Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 33. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD Practice E-co-Textile Design: How can a textile design practice sustainably in uence an emerging digital consumer culture? co-design, web 2.0, sustainabilityJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 34. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD PracticeThe Democratisation of Design“When the high cost of prototyping can be diffused very widely, the result democratises the opportunity to create.”Eric Von Hippel (2008) Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 35. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD Practice“If I had asked people what they wanted, they would have asked for a faster horse.”Henry FordJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 36. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD Practice Creating a Shared Space “Design spaces are where we take turns telling stories, making storyboards, and building prototypes... Sometimes we take a prototype and create a storyboard around it; other times, we do a sketch that gets us to building another model. All our discussions are facilitated by either prototypes or the sketches or the storyboards.” Rheinfrank (2000)Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 37. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD PracticeWorkshop: Pilot Exploration / Date: Dec 2010 / Location: UAL, London Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 38. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD Practice Co-writing design briefsJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 39. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD Practice Developing Design GamesJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 40. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD Practice Making ideas tangibleJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 41. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD Practice Thinking and MakingJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 42. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD Practice Public interactionJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 43. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD Practice online interaction www.thesharedscarfproject.com Twitter @sharedscarvesJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 44. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD Practice developing toolkits Think Make Style Share Design Thinking Re- ne concept Tweet Tags Brainstorming Quick & Dirty Prototyping think about how it will be used? Blog / website Cultural Probes scenarios CommunityJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 45. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD Practice Capturing data from different perspectives Auto-Documentation A disposable camera and ip camera are placed in the middle of the table and all participants are encouraged to take turns capturing data. This captures and collects data from their viewpoint.Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 46. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD Practice www.dressupdownload.comJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 47. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD Practice www.dressupdownload.comJen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 48. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles Part 3: PhD Practice Curators, Creators & Consumers + + www.dressupdownload.com “We are becoming a culture of curators... Organizations that are at the forefront of online audience engagement are presenting ideas that go beyond simply offering information about programming. Instead, they are experimenting with different ways that audiences can become co-creators of content, which can then lead to a sense of ownership in the institution.” Hanse (2011)Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Refashioning Fashion Conference June 2011
  • 49. Co-Everything: De ning co-design for fashion and textiles ContentsReferences(1) FLETCHER, K., 2008. Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys. Publisher:Earthscan Publishing.(2) FUAD-LUKE, A., 2009. Design Activism Beautiful Strangeness for a Sustainable World.Earthscan Publishing.(3) GAVER, B., DUNNE, T., PACENTI, E., (1999) Cultural Probes.http://cleo.ics.uci.edu/teaching/Winter10/231/readings/3-GaverDunnePacenti-CulturalProbes.pdf accessed 11/01/2011(4) LEADBEATER, C., MILLER, P., 2004. The Pro-Am Revolution. Demos(5) GALLOWAY, S., 2010. GENERATION NEXT Forum. Insight into tomorrow’s affluentconsumer. http://l2generationnextforum.eventbrite.com/ accessed 11/01/2011(6) SANDERS, E., 2009. Exploring co-creation on a large scale.http://copenhagencocreation.com/2009/11/13/the-right-tools-for-the-job/ accessed 11/01/2011(7) SANDERS, E,. STAPERS,. P., 2008. Co-Creation and the new landscapes of design. The CoDesign Journal, Taylor and Francis(8) TAPSCOTT, D., 2008. Grown Up Digital: How the Net Generation is Changing Your World.Publisher: McGraw-Hill Professional(9) SWAINE, J., RUPERT, N., 2009. Broadband for ‘virtually’ every household in Budget 2009.http://www.telegraph.co.uk/ nance/ nancetopics/budget/5202429/Broadband-for-virtually-every-household-in-Budget-2009.html accessed 11/01/2011(10) VON BUSCH, O., 2010. Re-examining the politics of design XXI magazine, issue 92,September2010 http://www.kulturservern.se/wronsov/selfpassage/XXI/XXI-1004/1004.htm(11) VON HIPPEL, E., 2006. Democratizing Innovation. Publisher: MIT Presswww.thesharedscarfproject.comwww.textilesampler.blogspot.comAcknowledgementsThe author would like to express thanks to everyone who participated in ‘The Shared Scarf Project’: Bridget Harvey, Matilda Aspinal, F on Griffith, Sabiha Rajar, Vita Ivicic,Catherine Harris, Tytania Rose, Lauren Palmer, Freya Reed, and Maria Velasquez and a special thanks to Joy Nevada Hale for the illustrations.Special thanks to Cari Marsden and Daniel MedlerAdditional thanks to the Textile Futures Research Consultancy (TFRC), Neals Yard Remedies and Chelsea College of Art & Design for supporting the research presented in thispaper.