• Save
2010 Ks Lawns OCC
Upcoming SlideShare
Loading in...5
×
 

2010 Ks Lawns OCC

on

  • 869 views

Men's Breakfast class with Dr. Rodney St. John about lawn care.

Men's Breakfast class with Dr. Rodney St. John about lawn care.

Statistics

Views

Total Views
869
Views on SlideShare
866
Embed Views
3

Actions

Likes
0
Downloads
0
Comments
0

1 Embed 3

http://olathechristian.org 3

Accessibility

Categories

Upload Details

Uploaded via as Adobe PDF

Usage Rights

© All Rights Reserved

Report content

Flagged as inappropriate Flag as inappropriate
Flag as inappropriate

Select your reason for flagging this presentation as inappropriate.

Cancel
  • Full Name Full Name Comment goes here.
    Are you sure you want to
    Your message goes here
    Processing…
Post Comment
Edit your comment

    2010 Ks Lawns OCC 2010 Ks Lawns OCC Presentation Transcript

    • Lawn Edition Olathe Christian Church 2010
    • Healthy Yards and Communities •  http://www.kansasgreenyards.org/ •  Info to maintain healthy landscapes and protect the environment.
    • Healthy Yards and Communities •  Most people think that maintaining a nice looking yard is bad for the environment. •  On the contrary, an un-healthy, un- managed lawn can be more harmful to the environment than a healthy green yard.
    • Healthy Green Lawns •  Filter air and water. –  Research shows green grass removes pollutants from air and traps sediments and nutrients from entering run-off water. •  Dead or Damaged lawns have more soil and nutrient loss, polluting our surface waters.
    • Healthy Green Lawns •  Cool the environment. –  “Heat Island Affect” in urban areas, with no grass •  Healthy Landscapes can be maintained with little or no negative impact on the environment. –  For more info on how to maintain healthy yards, KSUTurf.com and KansasGreenYards.org
    • http://blogs.ksre.ksu.edu/ksuturf/
    • Good Lawns Include 3 Things 1.  Start with good soil. 2.  Picking the best species and varieties. – Get species and variety recommendations from your local agent and KSUTurf.com 5.  Work
    • Busting Myths on Established Lawns •  Today we won’t discuss renovation….new soil….new grasses •  Today we will talk about the WORK part.
    • Mowing Myths •  Always bag your clippings….they cause thatch. •  Mow it really short in late fall and early spring. •  Mulching tree leaves into lawn is damaging to the lawn. •  Mowing short will make my yard like a golf course.
    • Mowing Myths •  Always bag your clippings….they cause thatch. –  Clippings don’t cause thatch…don’t bag. •  Mow it really short in late fall and early spring. –  Maybe in spring, but could cause problems. •  Mulching tree leaves into lawn is damaging to the lawn. –  Nope they are fine. •  Mowing short will make my yard like a golf course. –  Nope. Special grasses, special soils
    • Mowing: Basic Information at one •  Don’t remove more than 1/3 of blade time
    • Don't Bag if You Don't Have To •  Clippings don’t contribute much to thatch. –  Don’t bag your clippings! –  Zoysia may be exception but still don’t bag. •  If you remove clippings, –  must add 1/4 more nitrogen to get same response from decomposing clippings.
    • Mowing Regularly Makes A Difference  Limits ability of some weeds  Promote healthy turf by stimulating lateral growth  Too often, people wait too long to mow   Grass becomes tall and less dense..it doesn’t spread out  Mow seedlings as soon as they are at desired height.
    • Mowing: Height of Cut •  Kentucky Bluegrass: 2 to 3.5 inches. •  Tall Fescue: 2 ¾ to 3 ¾ inches. •  Bermuda and Zoysia: 9/16 to 2 inches. •  Buffalograss: 2 to 3 inches or no mow.
    • FERTILITY
    • Fertilizer Myths •  Lawns do not need to be fertilized. •  Fertilizing grass poisons the environment. •  The numbers on the bag or the kind/ brand of fertilizer I buy doesn’t matter.
    • Fertilizer Myths •  Lawns do not need to be fertilized. –  Almost all lawns need some fertilizer to maintain health. •  Fertilizing grass poisons the environment. –  Properly fertilized lawns are healthier and better for the environment. Once the fertilizer is applied to the lawn it stays in the lawn.
    • Fertilizer Myths •  The numbers on the bag or the kind/ brand of fertilizer I buy doesn’t matter. –  The numbers are percentages of nutrients in the bag. Higher numbers=more nutrients which means you need to use less of that product to achieve the same result. –  Brands and kinds are formulated different. Garden fertilizer is not good for lawns and vice-versa. Coop brands vs turf brands.
    • Under-Fertilization  Most lawns require some annual Nitrogen fertilization   Promotes growth   Helps maintain dense lawn   Which prevents weeds
    • Over-Fertilization  Too much Nitrogen can cause over- stimulation.   Resulting in lush-soft growth   That can be more susceptible to   Traffic Damage   Heat Stress   Disease
    • Fertilization - Cool Season Grasses 3-5lb N / 1000sqft / year  1-1.5lb N in Sept. Slow-release  1-1.5lb N in Nov. quick release or winterizer fertilizer  If needed or desired,  1-1.5lb N in May slow release
    • Keep It Out of the Street!!!! •  Once the fertilizer is in the lawn it stays in the lawn, but any on the street or sidewalk/driveway will wash into storm sewers with rain. •  Not a major source of pollution, but do your part to protect the environment.
    • Irrigation Myths •  The more I water the better the grass will perform. •  Water in the afternoon to cool the lawn. •  Water a little everyday.
    • •  Promotes deep rooting •  Allows air to root system •  Allow surface to dry
    • Turf Irrigation •  Water in early morning just before dawn. –  Less disease –  More Efficient •  Better water pressure •  Less wind •  Less evaporation
    • Thatch Myths •  Thatch is bad and I don’t want to have any.
    • Thatch •  Some thatch is GOOD it cushions, acts like a mulch, helps filter pesticides. •  Excessive N and water aid in thatch accumulation. •  Too much will keep roots near surface, promote disease. –  More than ¾ inch is too much.
    • Aerate for Thatch & for Healthy Grass  Improves water and air movement into soil.  Roots need air to breathe  More Air = More Roots = Healthier Grass  How often?  Depends on use of lawn.  Kids, dogs, parties, heavy soil = every year  None of above, sandy soils = every 3 or more years.
    • When to Aerate Aeratio n of Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Cool If you have Best Season to Time Warm Season
    • Weed Myths •  I had a good lawn and then the weeds came in and killed my yard. •  I should always use the weed and feed.
    • Prevention of Weed Introduction  The best defense against weeds is a healthy, vigorous lawn.  Weeds don't cause bad lawns, they are the result of a bad lawn.
    • Weed and Feed •  Only needed if you have weeds all over your yard. •  If not, then use plain fertilizer and spot spray your weeds. –  Cheaper and less potential impact to the environment.
    • Spring Time = Time To Control Annual Grassy Weeds
    • Crabgrass Germination  Germination generally coincides with flowering of redbuds and forsythia.  Has high light requirement for optimum germination, thus, thick turf discourages germination.
    • Spring Time = Pre-Emergent
    • Preemergence Herbicides  Most products also inhibit growth of seedling turfgrasses, and root growth of newly sodded turf.   You must wait before you can seed or sod turfgrass (usually at least 60 days).  Scott’s Step One plus Halts   Barricade, Dimension, Pendamethalin
    • Clay Busters •  Applying Gypsum or some special clay-busting, clay-loosening spray or chemical will loosen my clay yard and improve it.
    • Clay Busters •  Applying Gypsum or some special clay-busting, clay-loosening spray or chemical will loosen my clay yard and improve it. –  NO! Only the addition of organic matter will loosen clay soils. Gypsum loosens salt affected clay soils, not our clay soil.
    • Mole Myths •  Moles eat grubs…kill the grubs get rid of the moles. –  Nope, moles prefer to eat worms. •  Use chewing gum, castor oil, tobacco to get rid of moles. –  Trap them. Or use poison. –  Talprid
    • Seeding Myths •  The best time to seed a yard is in the spring. –  Fall is best, but seed when you have bare spots. •  If I let my grass grow tall it will go to seed and seed itself. –  Nope. •  All grass seed is the same. –  Not true, large differences in species and varieties. –  NTEP.org or KSUTurf.com
    • Johnson County Extension Office •  Lots of paper publications on lawns, gardens, flowers, trees, cooking, cleaning, budgeting, …almost everything. •  Soil Tests, plant, weed, insect, and disease ID. •  119th and Ridgeview (NW corner) •  www.KSRE.KSU.edu
    • Diseases •  Tall Fescue – Brown patch –  Symptoms appear in late May-July –  Warm and humid –  Prefers over fertilized lawns –  Usually too hot and dry in Aug
    • Tall Fescue – Brown Patch
    • Brown Patch
    • Disease ID – Plant Path Lab •  Take a sample into your local extension office. •  Bring 3-4 inch plug with 2-3 inches of soil. •  Bring dying turf, not dead. •  Ziploc baggie, no wet paper towels or anything. •  Overnight mail it.
    • Common Postemergence Herbicides •  2,4-D •  Weed-B-Gone, Weed-B-Gone Max Plus Crabgrass Control •  Trimec products •  Products containing triclopyr –good for clover, ivy, violet •  Weed Free Zone •  Weed Stop •  Drive – quinclorac for grassy weeds, field bindweed, Clover •  Watch the ones that say Grass and Weed Killer –  They will kill your lawn too. –  Read the Label.