2010 Ks Lawns OCC


Published on

Men's Breakfast class with Dr. Rodney St. John about lawn care.

Published in: Education
  • Be the first to comment

  • Be the first to like this

No Downloads
Total Views
On Slideshare
From Embeds
Number of Embeds
Embeds 0
No embeds

No notes for slide

2010 Ks Lawns OCC

  1. 1. Lawn Edition Olathe Christian Church 2010
  2. 2. Healthy Yards and Communities •  http://www.kansasgreenyards.org/ •  Info to maintain healthy landscapes and protect the environment.
  3. 3. Healthy Yards and Communities •  Most people think that maintaining a nice looking yard is bad for the environment. •  On the contrary, an un-healthy, un- managed lawn can be more harmful to the environment than a healthy green yard.
  4. 4. Healthy Green Lawns •  Filter air and water. –  Research shows green grass removes pollutants from air and traps sediments and nutrients from entering run-off water. •  Dead or Damaged lawns have more soil and nutrient loss, polluting our surface waters.
  5. 5. Healthy Green Lawns •  Cool the environment. –  “Heat Island Affect” in urban areas, with no grass •  Healthy Landscapes can be maintained with little or no negative impact on the environment. –  For more info on how to maintain healthy yards, KSUTurf.com and KansasGreenYards.org
  6. 6. http://blogs.ksre.ksu.edu/ksuturf/
  7. 7. Good Lawns Include 3 Things 1.  Start with good soil. 2.  Picking the best species and varieties. – Get species and variety recommendations from your local agent and KSUTurf.com 5.  Work
  8. 8. Busting Myths on Established Lawns •  Today we won’t discuss renovation….new soil….new grasses •  Today we will talk about the WORK part.
  9. 9. Mowing Myths •  Always bag your clippings….they cause thatch. •  Mow it really short in late fall and early spring. •  Mulching tree leaves into lawn is damaging to the lawn. •  Mowing short will make my yard like a golf course.
  10. 10. Mowing Myths •  Always bag your clippings….they cause thatch. –  Clippings don’t cause thatch…don’t bag. •  Mow it really short in late fall and early spring. –  Maybe in spring, but could cause problems. •  Mulching tree leaves into lawn is damaging to the lawn. –  Nope they are fine. •  Mowing short will make my yard like a golf course. –  Nope. Special grasses, special soils
  11. 11. Mowing: Basic Information at one •  Don’t remove more than 1/3 of blade time
  12. 12. Don't Bag if You Don't Have To •  Clippings don’t contribute much to thatch. –  Don’t bag your clippings! –  Zoysia may be exception but still don’t bag. •  If you remove clippings, –  must add 1/4 more nitrogen to get same response from decomposing clippings.
  13. 13. Mowing Regularly Makes A Difference  Limits ability of some weeds  Promote healthy turf by stimulating lateral growth  Too often, people wait too long to mow   Grass becomes tall and less dense..it doesn’t spread out  Mow seedlings as soon as they are at desired height.
  14. 14. Mowing: Height of Cut •  Kentucky Bluegrass: 2 to 3.5 inches. •  Tall Fescue: 2 ¾ to 3 ¾ inches. •  Bermuda and Zoysia: 9/16 to 2 inches. •  Buffalograss: 2 to 3 inches or no mow.
  15. 15. FERTILITY
  16. 16. Fertilizer Myths •  Lawns do not need to be fertilized. •  Fertilizing grass poisons the environment. •  The numbers on the bag or the kind/ brand of fertilizer I buy doesn’t matter.
  17. 17. Fertilizer Myths •  Lawns do not need to be fertilized. –  Almost all lawns need some fertilizer to maintain health. •  Fertilizing grass poisons the environment. –  Properly fertilized lawns are healthier and better for the environment. Once the fertilizer is applied to the lawn it stays in the lawn.
  18. 18. Fertilizer Myths •  The numbers on the bag or the kind/ brand of fertilizer I buy doesn’t matter. –  The numbers are percentages of nutrients in the bag. Higher numbers=more nutrients which means you need to use less of that product to achieve the same result. –  Brands and kinds are formulated different. Garden fertilizer is not good for lawns and vice-versa. Coop brands vs turf brands.
  19. 19. Under-Fertilization  Most lawns require some annual Nitrogen fertilization   Promotes growth   Helps maintain dense lawn   Which prevents weeds
  20. 20. Over-Fertilization  Too much Nitrogen can cause over- stimulation.   Resulting in lush-soft growth   That can be more susceptible to   Traffic Damage   Heat Stress   Disease
  21. 21. Fertilization - Cool Season Grasses 3-5lb N / 1000sqft / year  1-1.5lb N in Sept. Slow-release  1-1.5lb N in Nov. quick release or winterizer fertilizer  If needed or desired,  1-1.5lb N in May slow release
  22. 22. Keep It Out of the Street!!!! •  Once the fertilizer is in the lawn it stays in the lawn, but any on the street or sidewalk/driveway will wash into storm sewers with rain. •  Not a major source of pollution, but do your part to protect the environment.
  23. 23. Irrigation Myths •  The more I water the better the grass will perform. •  Water in the afternoon to cool the lawn. •  Water a little everyday.
  24. 24. •  Promotes deep rooting •  Allows air to root system •  Allow surface to dry
  25. 25. Turf Irrigation •  Water in early morning just before dawn. –  Less disease –  More Efficient •  Better water pressure •  Less wind •  Less evaporation
  26. 26. Thatch Myths •  Thatch is bad and I don’t want to have any.
  27. 27. Thatch •  Some thatch is GOOD it cushions, acts like a mulch, helps filter pesticides. •  Excessive N and water aid in thatch accumulation. •  Too much will keep roots near surface, promote disease. –  More than ¾ inch is too much.
  28. 28. Aerate for Thatch & for Healthy Grass  Improves water and air movement into soil.  Roots need air to breathe  More Air = More Roots = Healthier Grass  How often?  Depends on use of lawn.  Kids, dogs, parties, heavy soil = every year  None of above, sandy soils = every 3 or more years.
  29. 29. When to Aerate Aeratio n of Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Cool If you have Best Season to Time Warm Season
  30. 30. Weed Myths •  I had a good lawn and then the weeds came in and killed my yard. •  I should always use the weed and feed.
  31. 31. Prevention of Weed Introduction  The best defense against weeds is a healthy, vigorous lawn.  Weeds don't cause bad lawns, they are the result of a bad lawn.
  32. 32. Weed and Feed •  Only needed if you have weeds all over your yard. •  If not, then use plain fertilizer and spot spray your weeds. –  Cheaper and less potential impact to the environment.
  33. 33. Spring Time = Time To Control Annual Grassy Weeds
  34. 34. Crabgrass Germination  Germination generally coincides with flowering of redbuds and forsythia.  Has high light requirement for optimum germination, thus, thick turf discourages germination.
  35. 35. Spring Time = Pre-Emergent
  36. 36. Preemergence Herbicides  Most products also inhibit growth of seedling turfgrasses, and root growth of newly sodded turf.   You must wait before you can seed or sod turfgrass (usually at least 60 days).  Scott’s Step One plus Halts   Barricade, Dimension, Pendamethalin
  37. 37. Clay Busters •  Applying Gypsum or some special clay-busting, clay-loosening spray or chemical will loosen my clay yard and improve it.
  38. 38. Clay Busters •  Applying Gypsum or some special clay-busting, clay-loosening spray or chemical will loosen my clay yard and improve it. –  NO! Only the addition of organic matter will loosen clay soils. Gypsum loosens salt affected clay soils, not our clay soil.
  39. 39. Mole Myths •  Moles eat grubs…kill the grubs get rid of the moles. –  Nope, moles prefer to eat worms. •  Use chewing gum, castor oil, tobacco to get rid of moles. –  Trap them. Or use poison. –  Talprid
  40. 40. Seeding Myths •  The best time to seed a yard is in the spring. –  Fall is best, but seed when you have bare spots. •  If I let my grass grow tall it will go to seed and seed itself. –  Nope. •  All grass seed is the same. –  Not true, large differences in species and varieties. –  NTEP.org or KSUTurf.com
  41. 41. Johnson County Extension Office •  Lots of paper publications on lawns, gardens, flowers, trees, cooking, cleaning, budgeting, …almost everything. •  Soil Tests, plant, weed, insect, and disease ID. •  119th and Ridgeview (NW corner) •  www.KSRE.KSU.edu
  42. 42. Diseases •  Tall Fescue – Brown patch –  Symptoms appear in late May-July –  Warm and humid –  Prefers over fertilized lawns –  Usually too hot and dry in Aug
  43. 43. Tall Fescue – Brown Patch
  44. 44. Brown Patch
  45. 45. Disease ID – Plant Path Lab •  Take a sample into your local extension office. •  Bring 3-4 inch plug with 2-3 inches of soil. •  Bring dying turf, not dead. •  Ziploc baggie, no wet paper towels or anything. •  Overnight mail it.
  46. 46. Common Postemergence Herbicides •  2,4-D •  Weed-B-Gone, Weed-B-Gone Max Plus Crabgrass Control •  Trimec products •  Products containing triclopyr –good for clover, ivy, violet •  Weed Free Zone •  Weed Stop •  Drive – quinclorac for grassy weeds, field bindweed, Clover •  Watch the ones that say Grass and Weed Killer –  They will kill your lawn too. –  Read the Label.