EMOTIVE LIMESTONE ISLANDS, TROPICAL WATERS AND EXOTIC FLAVORS CREATE A SENSORY EXPERIENCE FOR GUESTS CRUISING ABOARD PHUKET!BASED CHARTER YACHT CALISTO.

1. A BOAT INTERNATIONAL MEDIA PUBLICATION
MAY 2013
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FANTASY YACHTS: WHERE
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INTERVIEW:
TOM PERKINS
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132'
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Radical Refits
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2. SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL 102
EMOTIVE LIMESTONE ISLANDS, TROPICAL WATERS AND EXOTIC
FLAVORS CREATE A SENSORY EXPERIENCE FOR GUESTS CRUISING
ABOARD PHUKET BASED CHARTER YACHT CALISTO.
  KARA MURPHY
ANDAMAN
PHOTOBYKARAMURPHY
A
of the
TASTE

3. 103 SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL
Ko Phi Phi Don lies uncomfortably warm beneath a
shrunken, worn emerald cloak, and the humidity fills
the salty, lazy air, licking all surfaces in its vicinity.
IT’S 5 A.M., AND DARKNESS LINGERS OVER
the restless rises of Ko Phi Phi Don, the largest of six
limestone islands known collectively as Ko Phi Phi in
Thailand’s Krabi Province. The island lies uncomfort-
ably warm beneath a shrunken, worn emerald cloak,
and the humidity, 90 percent and heavy as an anchor,
fills the salty, lazy air, licking all surfaces in its vicinity.
I wipe moisture from the aft deck table on 136-foot
motor yacht Calisto as I sit sipping the day’s first potent
coffee, breathing in perfume from my jasmine-and-rose
welcome garland and taking in my surroundings. Before
me is an imposter star—a light atop a nearby mast hung
low against the island’s crown. Portside, to the northwest,
cliffs peter down to form the transfixed face of a forlorn
puppy gazing toward an egg-shaped rock just offshore,
like a ball that has strayed just out of reach.
The previous evening, we motored 40 nautical miles
southeast from Phuket’s Yacht Haven Marina, on the
island province’s northeastern tip, and along its eastern
coastline before delving further into the Andaman Sea.
By the time we arrived here, in the quiet cove of Monkey
Bay, I’d already passed out amid a cocoon of cool Egyp-
tian cotton sheets, weary from a lengthy plane journey
and lulled by calm waters and a dinner of fresh pan-fried
white snapper, “sarong” prawns, smoked salmon salad
and a fine French rosé.
With senses freshly alert, I smile and wait for sunrise,
basking in the knowledge that, aside from an eight-strong
crew, I have this grand, beautiful vessel all to myself.
Calisto began her life in 1944 as an YMS-1 class mine-
sweeper, built for the U.S. Navy but transferred upon
completion to the Royal Navy of Great Britain. In the early
1950s, the late Thomas Loel Guinness, an Irish tycoon
and former Member of Parliament, purchased and trans-
formed her into his personal luxury yacht. A prestigious
French family was the next owner; when they sold her
to Saigon-based entrepreneur Eric Merlin, they did so
with the stipulation that she continue her glamorous life
as a cruising yacht and not become stuck idly in port,
spending her days as a tourist bar or restaurant.
And so in early 2007, she made the journey from
France to Southeast Asia where she underwent a fairly
extensive refit—which included, among other things,
repairing the hull, new paint, an interior refit and joinery
updating—before being relaunched as a Phuket-based
charter yacht. Aside from one cabin, which once fit both
the captain’s and second officer’s cabins, the existing
layout was maintained, and all seven guest staterooms
were refurbished with the help of an interior designer
selected by the owner.
Life in this tropical paradise seems to suit Calisto. This
gracious lady is gloriously tethered to history through
structure, fittings and old photos, and she stylishly beams
in anticipation of future explorations. I join French
Captain Philippe Cathala in the wheelhouse for a chat
about the day’s activities and cruising itinerary. This room
these pages
Calisto’s classic lines
stand out against the
rugged, limestone cliffs
of Ko Phi Phi, while
local long-tail boats,
known as Ruea Hang
Yao, maneuver through
the tighter passages
(right page). Calisto’s
interior is Old World
charm meets refined
luxury and incorporates
some of her original
1944 fittings, such as
the bronze telegraph
(above).
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4. 105 SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL 106
Calisto moves on towards the 40-plus enchanting lime-
stone islands of Phang Nga Bay in Phang Nga Province.
Venture on the shores of James Bond Island, Ko Phing
Kan, a location for The Man with the Golden Gun. Also
nearby is the famed 66-foot-tall limestone rock Ko Tapu,
which is thin at its base, then weirdly doubles in diam-
eter as it rises out of the water (pictured far right). On
the final evening, Calisto anchors at Ko Hong, deliver-
ing her guests back to Phuket the following day.
For keen divers, Captain Cathala recommends an itin-
erary to the Similan Islands instead. A marine park, these
nine small, low-lying islands—set approximately 55
nautical miles northwest of Phuket—are known for their
exceptionally clear waters, beautiful corals and abun-
dant sea life. A typical weeklong dive-focused charter
picks up guests from Patong Bay, on Phuket’s touristy
west coast, and visits the Similans as well as the Surin
Islands, a five-island archipelago located another 55
nautical miles north and also known for its excellent
coral. Richelieu Rock, one of the Surins’ dive sites, lures
underwater explorers with the possibility of whale shark
encounters in March and April. Other cruising destina-
tions aboard Calisto include Myanmar’s Mergui archi-
pelago and India’s Andaman Islands, both of which, says
Captain Cathala, offer very good diving.
Calisto’s sister ship, Calypso—also built as a mine-
sweeper and once owned by Guinness—facilitated the
deep-water ocean explorations and studies of none other
than Jacques Cousteau for nearly 40 years. John Denver
even wrote a song about her, “Aye, Calypso, the places
you’ve been to, the things that you’ve shown us, the stories
you tell….” Exploring the ocean’s wonders alongside Cous-
teau would have been an incredible experience. Although
Calypso’s classy relative doesn’t have an underwater
observation area or famous resident explorer on board,
embarking on a semi-deep-sea adventure from her
polished vantages is still an exciting prospect.
Following a 45-minute cruise, including a brief dinghy
jaunt into Phi Phi Leh’s Maya Bay, famous for its role in the
2000 movie The Beach starring Leonardo DiCaprio, we
arrive at the formidable, lonely cliffs of Bida Nok. Captain
Cathala and I enter the 82ºF water at the island’s southern
end and swim north along a steep, cotton candy pink coral
wall, sticking to a shallow depth of about 39 feet. Visibility
is average, perhaps 33 feet, but I don’t spot any of the
marine life that one of the dive books say should be here—
leopard sharks, black tip reef sharks, Kuhl’s stingrays,
bamboo sharks. However, the vibrant corals along with
brilliant blue pufferfish, several anemonefish and huge
schools of other colorful fish make our 50 minutes under-
water plenty enjoyable. And a couple other fish greet us
back on Calisto as well, although this time part of a table
ladenwithprawnPadThai,saladNiçoisewithfreshchunks
of local tuna and a spicy white snapper.
these pages
A combination of
scenic hikes, secluded
coves and prime diving
spots—all hidden away
from other visitors—
are part of a weeklong,
205-mile cruising
itinerary aboard Calisto
in the Andaman Sea.
Captain Cathala and I enter the 82ºF water
at the island’s southern end and swim north
along a steep, cotton candy pink coral wall,
sticking to a shallow depth of about 39 feet.
features a couple items original to the yacht: a beautiful
bronze telegraph and magnetic compass. Captains would
have used the former to relay desired speed to the
mechanic, who would then adjust the speed in the engine
room. Wheelhouse activities are, of course, much easier
with modern equipment, and Captain Cathala says as
soon as the tides have shifted in our favor we’ll cruise
south around Phi Phi Don, past the impenetrable cliffs
of uninhabited Phi Phi Leh, to the small nearby islands
of Bida Nai and Bida Nok where we’ll scuba dive. And
tonight we’ll anchor in Phi Phi Don’s southern bay, Ton
Sai, which is much busier, but it will give Captain Catha-
la’s antsy sole passenger the chance to go ashore for a
walk whenever she likes.
Captain Cathala is likely accustomed to guests with rest-
less energy. He tells me the owner occasionally brings his
young family aboard for holidays, emphasizing that the
yacht is well suited for family groups as it easily accom-
modates three couples and some kids. “Sometimes the
family lives abroad, like in America and Australia and
Hong Kong, and they want to have a holiday in Phuket. [So
all the families] will meet … together again on the boat.”
Our time in Ko Phi Phi is actually the first leg of a
family-friendly, weeklong cruising itinerary, which travels
205 miles of the Andaman Sea in a counterclockwise loop
and allows plenty of opportunities for stretching one’s
legs on beautiful beaches and kicking one’s flippers along-
side colorful fish. Captain Cathala has drawn on 26 years
and 106,000 miles of Andaman sailing experience to
create this itinerary, which covers scenic highlights—top
snorkeling spots, nature stops and hidden coves—while
providing plenty of downtime to relax on and off the yacht.
To the southeast, in Trang Province’s Rok Island group,
guests can explore Ko Rok Nok and Ko Rok Nai, setting
off on a jungle walk up to a viewpoint, meandering along
beaches and drift snorkeling over a coral reef at low tide.
If tides are low enough at Ko Muk, also in Trang, you can
wander through Tham Morakot, known as the Emerald
Cave, a 263-foot-long, winding limestone cave that
empties onto a beach with a glistening emerald-color
pool. Afterwards, Calisto cruises to Bamboo Island, just
north of Phi Phi Don, for lunch, and stops at snorkel sites
en route to the Dam islands in Krabi Province. Here, feel
the sand beneath your toes on one of the larger islands,
Ko Dam Hok and Ko Dam Kwan, and, if tides are low,
walk a sand bridge, dubbed “Miracle Beach,” between Ko
Dam Kwan and one of the smaller islets.
At uninhabited Ko Hong, visit a pretty cove before
THAILAND
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5. SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL 108107 SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL
       
M AY 2 0 1 3
CONNECT WITH US
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
 
PHANG NGA
BAY
Ko
Phi Phi Don
Ko
Dam Hok
Ko Yao
Yai
Bida Nok
Ko Rok Nok
Ko Rok Nai
Ko
Yao
Ko
Phi Phi Leh
MAYA BAY
Nai Harn
PATONG BAY
Ko Lanta
Yai
Ko
Lanta
Noi
Phuket Town
THAILAND
PHANG NGA
KRABI
ANDAMAN SEA
PHUKET
Koh Panyi
James Bond Island
to life aboard Calisto. The next morning, after Captain
Cathala and I go for a short run ashore, hauling ourselves
up to the second of Phi Phi’s viewpoints and back down
again, I realize another enticing aspect of this vessel: the
presence of a Thai masseuse among the crew. Chalisa
gives Thai massages on the open but semi-private upper
deck behind the wheelhouse, where she works wonders
on aching muscles earned during the day’s activities.
An hour of jasmine-scented, blissful relaxation later,
and we’ve arrived at the doorstep of Nui Bay, which lies
on Ko Phi Phi Don’s northwestern section, near the
stationary limestone pup and ball I sighted yesterday
morning. Following a short snorkel off the bay’s invit-
ing beach beneath jagged, paralyzed limestone drip-
pings, we say goodbye to Ko Phi Phi, continuing on
towards the other Andaman treasures that await us.
Calisto’s galley isn’t large or overly fancy, but I’m
astounded by the magic that happens there. Chef Sowat
Naknonhan prepares French and Thai dishes for just
about every meal, although he can cater to any taste. On
this cruise, the spicy Thai creations are clearly for me,
while the French influence is intended to please Captain
Cathala. Recognizing my love of heat, he serves up tiny,
individual dishes of fresh, chopped chilies in vinegar and
fish sauce as well as ground chili with each meal, includ-
ing breakfast. And he begins challenging my tolerance
with at least one dish per sitting; the tofu, coriander and
lime juice Thai noodle salad nearly breaks me, but, as
serious chili lovers will understand, reaching one’s thresh-
old, where you’re swallowing loads of water and sweat-
ing profusely, is an immensely fun experience, one that
propels your senses into a state of feeling totally alive.
Taste, however, definitely isn’t the only sense brought
PHOTOBYISTOCK.COM/SHUTTERWORX
fact file
CLIMATE: Tropical monsoon
CURRENCY: Thai baht
LANGUAGE: Thai, although
many Thai people also speak
English
TIME ZONE: UTC +7
AIRPORT: Phuket International
Airport, Phuket Island
WHEN TO GO: The best time to
visit the Phuket area is between
December and May, when the wet
season is over. The sea state in
the Andaman is the most
comfortable in April/May.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS:
A passport with at least six
months’ validity, visa and proof of
onward travel is required for entry.
ARRIVING BY PLANE: If
you’re a citizen of one of the
approximately 40 nations that
qualify for a visa waiver or visa
exemption and are staying 30
days or less, you may not require
a visa.
ARRIVING BY BOAT:
Captains and crew without a
pre-arranged visa will be issued a
non-extendable, one-month visa
upon arrival. Persons (but not
passengers) with this type of visa
will need to pay a refundable
bond if they need to leave
Thailand during this time.
Regardless of method of arrival,
it’s best to check visa requirements
with your nearest consulate or
embassy prior to travel.
YACHT ENTRY:
Visiting yachts must complete all
incoming/outgoing clearance at
the Ao Chalong office, located
south of both Phuket marinas.
Yachts will receive a six-month
permit, which may be extended.
Longer stays are also possible;
inquire with your agent or marina
manager.
MARINAS: Yacht Haven Marina
(Phuket) can accommodate yachts
up to 262 feet in length, with up to
an 18-foot draft. Yachts with more
than a 14-foot, nine-inch-plus
draft should approach at high tide.
www.yacht-haven-phuket.com
Ao Po Grand Marina (Phuket)
accommodates yachts up to 262
feet in length.
www.aopograndmarina.com
CHARTER: To charter Calisto,
contact Fraser Yachts, Tel: +377
93 100 480; Email Massima.
Piras@fraseryachts.com;
www.calisto-cruises.com
SUPERYACHT AGENTS: Asia
Pacific Superyachts, gordon@
asia-pacific-superyachts.com
SEA Marine Services, rogerg@
seamarineservices.com
SUPERYACHT REFIT AND
SERVICES: Meteor Yachts,
Duncan@eclipsemarine.net
Absolute Yacht Interiors, info@
absoluteyachtinteriors.com
TOURISM:
www.tourismthailand.org
THAILAND