Medieval Hats Kwcs 06


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Medieval Hats Kwcs 06

  1. 1. <ul><li>Medieval What Not to Wear: </li></ul><ul><li>The right hat for the right outfit </li></ul>THL Berengaria of Outremer, OW, Cygnus Knowne World Costume Symposium The Barony of Jaravellir November 24-26 2006
  2. 2. Today’s Agenda <ul><li>Overview of hats/headdresses over time </li></ul><ul><li>Northern Europe (Britain, Netherlands) </li></ul><ul><li>Southern Europe (mainly Italy) </li></ul><ul><li>Men and women </li></ul><ul><li>Peasant, middle class & noble </li></ul><ul><li>Choosing the right hat </li></ul><ul><li>Creating/Reproducing your hat </li></ul>
  3. 3. <ul><li>Some background </li></ul>
  4. 4. Hats/headdresses became more elaborate over time
  5. 5. <ul><li>Heads were generally (but not always) </li></ul><ul><li>covered or hair was dressed </li></ul>
  6. 6. <ul><li>Northern Europeans used headgear </li></ul><ul><li>more than Southern Europeans </li></ul>German, 1502 Florentine, 1505
  7. 7. <ul><li>It was more common for women’s </li></ul><ul><li>heads to be covered than men’s (but not </li></ul><ul><li>always) </li></ul>
  8. 8. <ul><li>Different styles of hats were worn at the </li></ul><ul><li>same time </li></ul>
  9. 9. Hats signalled class/rank, age, ethnicity
  10. 10. <ul><li>Hats for nobility or royalty often </li></ul><ul><li>combined millinery and jewellery </li></ul>
  11. 11. Children dressed the same as adults
  12. 12. A note about straw hats and snoods: Yes, they’re period… but use with caution!
  13. 13. How do you choose the right hat? Research, research, research
  14. 14. Research Sources <ul><li>Primary Sources: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Artwork of the time </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Writings of the time – literature, ballads, diaries, wills, etc. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Archaeological evidence </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Secondary sources: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Costume histories </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Art books </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>SCA sources– recommend Cynthia Virtue/Cynthia Du Pre Argent </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Tertiary Sources: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Encyclopedias </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Pattern books </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Theatrical/film costumes </li></ul></ul>
  15. 15. <ul><li>Primary source = created at the time, by the people who lived it </li></ul><ul><li>Helps you to develop an “eye” for periods, styles, shapes, fabrics, colours,etc. </li></ul><ul><li>Helps you to judge relevance of secondary sources like books, articles & websites </li></ul>What’s the difference?
  16. 16. Primary sources for North Americans <ul><li>Not easy to find – mostly located in museums, galleries, university libraries & archives </li></ul><ul><li>For us the Internet is crucial, but….use extreme caution!!! </li></ul><ul><li>Information can range from the sublime to the ridiculous……. </li></ul>
  17. 17. Fantasy
  18. 18. Reality!
  19. 19. <ul><li>“ If you want accurate </li></ul><ul><li>costumes … don't believe web articles, </li></ul><ul><li>collegium seminars, or offhand </li></ul><ul><li>r emarks by others who won't show </li></ul><ul><li>y ou (or refer you to) the medieval or </li></ul><ul><li>r enaissance original images they base </li></ul><ul><li>their theories on. ” </li></ul><ul><li>Cynthia de Pre Argent </li></ul><ul><li> </li></ul>
  20. 20. Developing an artistic eye <ul><li>Early detailed visual evidence of costume not easy to find </li></ul><ul><li>Portraiture not common </li></ul><ul><li>Human figures not realistically represented </li></ul>
  21. 21. <ul><li>Be aware that from 1000-1500 many/most themes were religious or allegorical </li></ul><ul><li>Even portraits had a lots of religious symbolism </li></ul><ul><li>Costuming may be in the “Nativity scene” style – an idealized view </li></ul>
  22. 23. <ul><li>Now, a quick romp through hat history </li></ul>
  23. 24. <ul><li>Viking and Anglo Saxon Periods – to 1200 </li></ul>
  24. 25. <ul><li>Characteristics: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Simple, flowing </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Accessorizes: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Apron dress, tunic, kirtle & gown </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Women’s hair loose or braided & pinned </li></ul><ul><li>Men’s hair longish, could wear caps or hoods except for noble Normans who shaved the back of their heads </li></ul><ul><li>Women also wore veils (silk, linen) with fillets, allows hair to show </li></ul>
  25. 27. A note on women’s Viking headgear
  26. 28. <ul><li>“… The kerchief as understood and worn in the SCA is conspicuous by its absence from the archaeological debate about Viking women's headwear. </li></ul><ul><li>&quot;But That's How They Look in the Book!&quot;: Viking Women's Garb in Art and </li></ul><ul><li>Archaeology </li></ul><ul><li>© 1991, 1999 Carolyn Priest-Dorman </li></ul><ul><li> </li></ul>
  27. 29. Jorvik Hood reconstruction Dublin Hood reconstruction
  28. 30.
  29. 31. <ul><li>Princess Leia Strikes Back: 1200-1400 </li></ul>Marie France 1327
  30. 32. <ul><li>Characteristics: Fillets, crowns/veils </li></ul><ul><li>Accessorizes: Kirtle & gown, open surcoat, tunic </li></ul><ul><li>Hair begins to be hidden </li></ul><ul><li>Wimples, barbettes develop </li></ul><ul><li>Secured with fillet or crown </li></ul><ul><li>Hair sometimes worn loose underneath but more typically netted </li></ul><ul><li>Men’s hair same as previously </li></ul><ul><li>Men’s hats incl. liripipes, capuchons </li></ul>
  31. 34. <ul><li>Netting begins to take on a life of its own – development of the crespine – occurs mid-late in the 1300s </li></ul>Philippa of Hainault 1365
  32. 35. Styles in north and south begin to diverge
  33. 36. Cinderella’s Ugly Sisters: 1400-1450
  34. 37. <ul><li>Characteristics: Extreme shapes – men & women Hidden hair – women </li></ul><ul><li>Accessorizes: Houppelande, both men & women </li></ul><ul><li>Hats become headdresses in this century, except for Italy </li></ul><ul><li>Exaggerations of previous trends, esp. women’s </li></ul><ul><li>Shapes are : reticulated, horned, heart-shaped, turbans,rolls – the escoffion </li></ul><ul><li>Veils are optional; have moved away from functionality of hiding the hair and are purely decorative </li></ul><ul><li>Materials go from simple linens and silks to brocades; metal is common in the netting; jewels are part of the design </li></ul><ul><li>Middle class copy noble fashions </li></ul>
  35. 38. Italian 1436 French 1430s Flemish 1439
  36. 39. 1430 Flemish 1430 Flemish 1440 Italian 1440 Italian More similarities for men???
  37. 40. Fairytale Princesses:1450-1485
  38. 41. <ul><li>Characteristics: Pointed or tubular shapes – women Close-fitting caps/bonnets,”top hats” </li></ul><ul><li>Accessorizes: Houppelande, v-necked gown&kirtle –women Houppelande,short tunics – men Pointy shoes for both </li></ul><ul><li>Hats more streamlined – emphasis on height </li></ul><ul><li>Veiling is very lightweight, complicated for hennins; wired and starched to shape </li></ul><ul><li>Middle class uses heavier veiling, pins, less exaggerated shapes </li></ul><ul><li>Hair hidden, heads partially shaved/plucked </li></ul><ul><li>Completely different in Italy : jewelled hair, ribbon coifs, pageboy haircuts (men) </li></ul>
  39. 42. Northern 1460s-80s
  40. 43. Southern 1460s-80s
  41. 44. Gables & the Hood: 1485-1550
  42. 45. <ul><li>Characteristics: Rounded shapes, close-fitting – men & women Hair allowed to show </li></ul><ul><li>Accessorizes: Square-necked gown & kirtle Doublet </li></ul><ul><li>Hennins shrink and become gables ca. 1485 in Northern Europe & England </li></ul><ul><li>Turban shapes retained in Germany </li></ul><ul><li>Hair still the focus in Italy – both men & women </li></ul><ul><li>English hood evolves from gable/kennel in early 1500s </li></ul><ul><li>French hood introduced by Anne Boleyn </li></ul><ul><li>Men wear flat caps & berets –both north & south </li></ul>
  43. 46. 1496 German vs Venetian
  44. 47. 1505 English 1515 Italian
  45. 48. Shakespeare in Love: 1550-1600
  46. 49. <ul><li>Characteristics: Smaller, flatter, unisex </li></ul><ul><li>Accessorizes: Farthingale, doublet, ruffs </li></ul><ul><li>Hats become smaller and set off hair, which is poofy </li></ul><ul><li>Usually worn with undercap/coif </li></ul><ul><li>Some “top hat” styles: “Spanish toque” </li></ul><ul><li>Court hats can be bigger </li></ul><ul><li>Little to no veiling – feathers the big accessory </li></ul><ul><li>Unisex style –both men & women wore, although women’s more delicate and closer-fitting </li></ul><ul><li>Italian, French – favour styled hair </li></ul>
  47. 52. Summary <ul><li>Hats became more elaborate over time </li></ul><ul><li>Heads were generally (but not always) covered or hair was dressed </li></ul><ul><li>Northern Europeans used headgear more than Southern Europeans </li></ul><ul><li>It was more common for women’s heads to be covered than men’s </li></ul><ul><li>Different styles of hats were worn at the same time </li></ul><ul><li>Children were dressed the same as adults </li></ul><ul><li>Hats for nobility or royalty often combined millinery and jewellery </li></ul><ul><li>Straw hats & snoods are period – but not all-purpose </li></ul>
  48. 53. <ul><li>Up to 13 th century: simple, flowing </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Veil (women), Cap (men) </li></ul></ul><ul><li>1300-1400: structure, braids, netting </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Wimple, Crespine (women), Chaperon (men) </li></ul></ul><ul><li>1400-1485: big hats, horns, turbans </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Escoffion(women),Turban(men) </li></ul></ul><ul><li>1485-1550: smaller,rounded,flatter </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Gable,French hood(women), Bonnet, Flat cap(men) </li></ul></ul><ul><li>1550-1600: small,fitted,plumed </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Caps, Spanish toque – men & women </li></ul></ul>
  49. 54. Thank you!