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denim , denim washing , wintage denim , denim book , indigo , indigo dye , indigo dyeing , stone washing , enzyme , history of jeans , history of jeans , indigo dyeing , stone washing , enzyme , enzyme washing , garment processing , coating , denim coating

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Coating book Document Transcript

  • 1. d   n  m   o   k  14 e   i   b   o  DENIMIST  2011   DNMSTDENIMDESINGFASHIONARTLIFE   DB DENIM BOOK D E N I M I S T
  • 2. DB DENIM B O O K DENIMIST T U R K E Y  Since   decades   Denimist   has   developed   know-­‐how   in   denim   finishing   prior   to  garment   manufacturing   and   also   in   jeans   washing.   Our   customers   derive  benefit   from   this   experience.For   the   fabric   production   we   offer   finishing  chemicals   which   provide   the   demanded   fabric   properties   such   as   good  sewability,   stiffness,elasticity   and   handle.   The   other   field   of   our   activity   is   the  recommendation   of   laundring   Procedures   for   ready-­‐made   clothing   such   as  trousers,  jackets  or  skirts,  shirts.  In   doing   so   we   have   learned   that   many   errors   may   occur   in   this   complicated  production   process.  The   laundry,   the   last   step   in   the   sequence   of     producers,   is  faced   to   difficulties   which   are   caused   by   previous   inaccuracies.   Therefore,   a  good   cooperation   among   the   steps   of   jeans   manufacturing   is   required   to   avoid  problems.  Fabric  producer,  garment  manufacturer  and  laundries  have  to  work  together   to   obtain   the   desired   end   result.   By   means   of   our   contacts   on   both  sides  of  the  production  process  we  are  able  to  make  our  contribution.  The   technical   stuff   of   Denimist     is   always   ready   to   help   our   customers   with  eventual   problems   and   to   modify   production   procedures   according   to   the  respective   requirements.  Through   our   numerous   contacts   which   we   have   got  with  denim  producers,  garment  manufacturers  and  laundries  during  the  years  we  support  the  team  work  among  all  sections  of  the  jeans  chain  and  make  our  know-­‐how    available  to  all  of  the  parties  concerned    
  • 3. DB DENIM B O O KAgenda  Introduction  Overview  of  coating  systems  Coating  products    Applications  Applications  of  Denimist    products  Examples  
  • 4. DB DENIM B O O KDefinition  Coating  means  :  one-­‐sided,  plane  application  of  textile  auxiliaries  Limits:   •  Textile  printing   •  Nip-­‐padding   •  Spray-­‐application   •  Lamination  
  • 5. DB DENIM B O O K •  Special  machines  necessary  for  coating   •  Modular  systems  are  most  common   •  Coating  station     •  Different  knife  systems  •  We  coat:   •  Pastes  with  high  viscosity   •  Foams   •  Hot  melts  •  After  coating  we  need  a  stenter  or  dryer  •  Drying  and  condensation,  in  the  majority  of  cases  in  one  step  •  Crush-­‐cylinder  and  calander  are  useful  additional  machinery  •  Printing  screens  can  be  used  to  apply  coating  pastes  and  foam  
  • 6. DBDENIM B O O K
  • 7. DBDENIM B O O K
  • 8. DBDENIM B O O K
  • 9. DB DENIM B O O K•  Air  knife    •  Coating  is  affected  by:   •  Rigidity/Elasticity  (of  fabric)   •  Absorbency  of  the  fabric   •  Surface  condition  (roughness)   •  Viscosity  of  the  paste   •  Solid  content  of  the  paste   •  Knife  profile  
  • 10. DB DENIM B O O KRoller  knife  •  Often  used  with  a  gap     (between  fabric  and  knife)  •  Add-­‐on’s  from  50  g/m²  to  6,000  g/m²  (wet)  possible  •  Very  high  viscosities  can  be  handled        3,000  mPas    to  120,000  mPas  possible  •  Very  slick  fabrics  are  coatable    •  Commonly  used  for  application  of  stable  foams    
  • 11. DB DENIM B O O KSharp  profiles  •  Low  penetration  in  the  fabric  •  Less  dry-­‐add-­‐on  •  Soft  handle  •  Strong  inter-­‐dependence  with    the  surface  of  the  fabric  Round  profiles  •  Good  adhesion  •  Higher  stiffness  •  More  dry-­‐add-­‐on   1  mm          3  mm  6  mm   sharp        round  shoe  
  • 12. DB DENIM B O O KCoating  systems  (application)Paste  coating  Pastes    •  Add  thickener  to  adjust  viscosity  from     6,000  mPas  to  20,000  mPas  •  Good  mixer  is  essential  •  Defoaming  not  only  for  preparation   but  also  for  running  on  the  fabric  Paste  coating  •  Closed  surface  after  coating  •  Compaction  of  the  fabric  •  Bad  permeability  to  air  •  Good  water-­‐proof  performance   Glossy  surface   No  foam  or  particles  
  • 13. DB DENIM B O O KCoating  systems  (application)Foam  coating   •  Air  for  dilution     •  Less  energy  costs  (less  water  to  vaporize)   •  Soft  handle   stitches  are  not  bonded  together   •  Breathability  with  normal  (  cheaper)  polymers   Foam  mixer  (industry)  
  • 14. DB DENIM B O O KCoating  systems  (application)Instable  foam  Instable  foam  does  not  destruct  under  normal  conditions  Instable  means     •  Foam  destructs  in  heat   •  Foam  destructs  under  the  knife   •  Preserves  the  porosity  of  the  fabric   •  No  closed  film     •  In  use  for:   •  Sealing  of  the  surface   •  Wash-­‐out  effects   •  Double-­‐side  coloration   Instable  foam   Coated/porous   Air  knife  
  • 15. DB DENIM B O O KCoating  systems  (application)Stable  Foam   •  After    drying  it‘s  still  a  foam   •  Foam  stabilizers  necessary   •  Application  with  roller  knife  and  gap   •  Drying  at  max.  100  °C     •  Instantly  grout  after  drying   •  Don’t  roll  it  up  without  grouting!   •  Condensation,  embossing  and  calandering  in  second  step     •  Calandering  increases  the  adhesion   Stable  foam   Gap  0.2  to  2  mm   Coated   Roller  knife  
  • 16. DB DENIM B O O KKnife  System  
  • 17. DB DENIM B O O KDouble  Side  System  
  • 18. DB DENIM B O O KCommabar  System  
  • 19. DB DENIM B O O KCase  Knife  System  
  • 20. DB DENIM B O O KEngraved  Roller  System  
  • 21. DB DENIM B O O K2  Roller  System  
  • 22. DB DENIM B O O K3  Roller  Combi  System  
  • 23. DB DENIM B O O KMicro  Roller  System  
  • 24. DB DENIM B O O K5  Roller  System  
  • 25. DB DENIM B O O KReverse  Roll  System  
  • 26. DB DENIM B O O KRotary  Screen  System  
  • 27. DB DENIM B O O KDipping  System  
  • 28. DB DENIM B O O KSlot  Die  System  
  • 29. DB DENIM B O O KCurtain  Coating  System  
  • 30. DB DENIM B O O KHotmelt  Slot  Die  System  
  • 31. DB DENIM B O O KPowder  Scattering  System  
  • 32. DB DENIM BOOKHead  Office   :   Kazimiye  Mah.  Karadeniz  Cad.  Kiliçoğlu  AlDn  Evler  No:  37/5/21    Çorlu  /  Tekirdağ  /  TURKEY   Ph:  90  282  673  62  40      Fax  :  90  282  673  59  75   eyup@denimist.com.tr  Factory   :   Motor  Yerleri  Mevkii  E-­‐5  Uzeri  Ulaş  /  Corlu  /  Tekirdag  /  TURKEY   mustafa@denimist.com.tr    Pakistan   :   Plot  No:  2/C  Lane  No:  3  Itehad  Coom  Phase  –  VI  D.H.A  Karachi  /  PAKISTAN   Ph:  92-­‐21-­‐37820980  –  35348720    Cell  :  92-­‐300-­‐214430   tanveer@denimist.com.tr  Bangladesh   :   Road  36  ,  House  15,  F4,  Gulshan  2,  Dhaka  /BANGLADESH   Cell:  8801741393879   serkan@denimist.com.tr