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  • 1. JJ Redrafted by AnaJan Instructions Description: A short sleeved blouse with pleated front bib. Altered the BurdaStyle JJ blouse pattern #6009. Size: 38 6. Collar 1. Front bib 2. Button closure 7. Stand collar 8. Sleeve 9. Sleeve facing 4. Front side 3. Front center 5. Back Seam allowances are not included. Add 1.5cm wide seam allowances. Pattern pieces: 1. Front bib – cut 2x (cut out from pleated fabric) 2. Front button closure – cut 4x 3. Front center piece – cut 2x 4. Front side piece – cut 2x 5. Back – cut 1x on fold 6. Collar – cut 2x on fold 7. Stand collar – cut 2x on fold 8. Sleeve – cut 2x 9. Sleeve facing – cut 2x Notions: o Fashion fabric – 1.20m x 1.40m o Interfacing o Buttons
  • 2. Interfacing: o Apply interfacing to the collar (piece “6”), stand collar (piece “7”), button closure (piece “2”) and all in one button closure of the piece “3”. Note that interfacing is usually applied to 1 layer of fabric, the outer one. Front bib: o Cut a piece of fabric along the fabric’s width, approximately 40cm long (measure the bib’s height and add 5cm to the length for accurate length). Note: the pleating will shrink the fabric to 1/3 of its original width. If your fabric is narrower than 1.40m you should double the length (this will also effect the total amount of needed fabric). o Mark pleating marks on the fabric, as shown in the pattern sheet. The pleats should be 1cm wide. o Sew the pleats and iron the fabric. Make sure all the pleats are directed in the same direction. o Cut the bib pieces. Make sure the pleats on the left and on the right sides are directed in the opposite directions. The pleats direction should be towards the side seams. Tip: Pin the paper pattern to the right side of fabric and then cut the fabric adding required seam allowance. This way you’ll have a better view on the pleats and their direction. o Baste the pleats in place after you have cut the fabric. This will secure the pleats from moving. You can machine baste the pieces, by stitching close to the cut lines. Front: o Sew together front center and front side pieces (pieces “3” and “4”), following the notch 1. o Apply the button closure to the front bib (pieces “1” and “2”), following the notch 2. o Apply button closure facing o Sew together front bib and front bottom following the notch 3. o Finish the button closure by stitching the facing to the front panel, from the wrong side of panel. Back: o Sew the back darts. Bodice: o Sew the side seams of the front and back panel, following the notch 4. o Sew the shoulder seams, following the notch 5. Collar: o With right sides together, sew the collar pieces together, leaving the bottom seam open.
  • 3. o Turn the collar inside out. Press the collar. o Sandwich the collar between two layers of stand collar. The stand collar pieces should be places with right sides together. o Sew the pieces together, leaving the bottom seam of the stand collar open. o Turn the collar inside out. Press the collar o Apply the collar to the blouse. Sleeves: o Fold the sleeve piece (piece “8”) with right sides together. Sew the sleeve tube, following the notch 6. o Open button holes on the marked positions. o Fold the sleeve facing piece (piece “9”) with right sides together. Sew the sleeve facing tube, following the notch 6. o With right sides together, sew the sleeve to the sleeve facing. o Turn the sleeve facing to the inside of the sleeve. o Fold the top seam allowance of the sleeve facing, and pin the facing to the sleeve. o Top stitch the sleeve facing. o Run another stitch parallel to the previous stitch, approximately 2 cm distanced from it (the marks on the pattern are 1cm distanced, while they should be 2 cm distanced – sorry for that). o Repeat the process for both left and right sleeves. o Cut two straps of fabric – 50cm long and 4cm wide each and make sleeve bands. o Insert the bands to the sleeve canal. o Apply sleeves to the blouse. Hem the blouse. Open button holes and sew buttons.