Swiss MadeSuccess story
Artem SkachkovMarketing manager at Noblesse
Watch of XXI centuryPhoneThe most reliable and practical watch in2013
Facts & FiguresSwiss watch industry in facts & figures
Swiss watch industry                  Switzerland                 Area: 41 284 km²                 Population: 7 700 200...
Swiss watch industry                  Switzerland                 Export: 19 300 mln. EURO                 Produced: 29....
Watch sales                                                           7%                                                  ...
Watch facts1 mmHeight of Rado ceramic case
Watch facts1 200 mWaterresistance of Omega watch
Watch facts1 500 partsMake up Franck Muller movement
Watch facts0,2 sm2Area of Jaeger-LeCoultre watch
Watch facts10 vibrationsMakes every second balance wheel ofZenith watch
Watch facts840 CoTemperature at the oven to produceUlysse Nardin dial
Professional languageBasic terms of fine watchmaking
Watch types Mechanical   Quartz
Watch types Self-wound   Hand-wound
Watch types Self-wound   Hand-wound
Watch types   ???        ???
Watch dictionaryMovementIMPORTANT! Terms and names
Watch dictionary               Escapement               A mechanism that is fitted                between the gears and   ...
Watch dictionary                    Balance               A circular, moving part which                oscillates on its r...
Watch dictionary                         Bezel               A     ring around the case                   middle       tha...
Watch dictionary                     Guilloche               A        decorative     engraving                   technique...
Watch dictionary                     Calibre               A synonym of size. Used to                denote the layout and...
Watch dictionary                      Jewels               An international term for the                jewels (rubies) in...
Watch dictionary                   Vibrations               Movement of a pendulum or                oscillating body betw...
Watch dictionary                      Rotor               A semi-circular disc that                freely rotates with eac...
Watch dictionary               Chronograph               A watch combined with a                mechanism which can be    ...
Watch dictionary               Chronometer               A high-precision watch displaying                 seconds whose m...
HistoryFrom home manufacture to stock exchange
Watch historyMarine chronometerWatches with gyroscope
Watch history  John Calvin Birth: 10 july 1509 Education: theology, law Reforms:      Creation of city council      D...
Watch history  Geography Area: mountains of Alps and Jura Average temperature: from +4 to  +6 Precipitation: up 2 000 s...
Watch historyWorkshopHome-based production of watchcomponents
Watch historyManufactureIndustrial watch production
Watch historyEvolutionFrom pocket to wrist watch
Watch history                  Rapid Development factors                 Innovative progress in:                      Av...
Watch historyQuartz crisisApparent death of Swiss watch industry
Watch history  Quartz crisis Quartz watches:       Battery powered       Highest precision       No winding       Dig...
Watch history                                         Gunter                   Franck Muller                              ...
Founding fathers                   Gunter Blumlein               • Life: 1944-2001               • Company: LMH (in 1981) ...
Founding fathers                      Franck Muller               • Life: 1958-present               • Company: Franck Mul...
Founding fathers                      Nicolas Hayer               • Life: 1928-2010               • Company: Swatch Group ...
Founding fathers                   Rolf W. Schnyder               • Life: 1935-2011               • Company: Ulysse Nardin...
Founding fathers                   Ernest Schneider               • Life: 1921-present               • Company:     Breitl...
Watch historyManufacture Modern production site
BrandsTOP watch brands
Watch brands
Watch brands                Breguet                Founded: 1775                Founder: Abraham-                 Louis ...
Watch brands                Achievements                Invented tourbillon                Invented hairspring          ...
Watch brands                Hublot                Founded: 1980                Founder: Carlo Crocco                Bra...
Watch brands                Achievements                First watch on rubber                 bracelet                Pr...
Watch brands                IWC                Founded: 1868                Founder: Florentine                 Ariosto ...
Watch brands                Achievements                The only watch                 company in German                 ...
Watch brands                Jaeger-LeCoultre                Founded: 1833                Founder: Antoine               ...
Watch brands                Achievements                Creator of                 milionometer                Full cycl...
Watch brands                Omega                Founded: 1848                Founder: Louis Brandt                Bran...
Watch brands                Achievements                Watch of Apollo 11                 astronauts                Oly...
Watch brands                Patek Philippe                Founded: 1839                Founders: Antoni Patek           ...
Watch brands                Achievements                Inventor of crown                #1 at antiquarian              ...
Watch brands                Romain Jerome                Founded: 2004                Founder: NA                Brand ...
Watch brands                Achievements                Watches with Titanic                 parts                Watche...
Watch brands                Rolex                Founded: 1908                Founder: Hans Wilsdorf                Bra...
Watch brands                Achievements                Waterresistance record                Largest watch             ...
Watch brands                Ulysse Nardin                Founded: 1846                Founder: Ulysse Nardin            ...
Watch brands                Achievements                Most reliable marine                 chronometers               ...
Watch brands                Vacheron Constantin                Founded: 1755                Founder: Jean-Mark          ...
Watch brands                Achievements                Most ancient                 manufacture                First an...
BusinessWatch holdings, fairs and rewards
Watch business                   Franck Muller Group   Rolex Group                            LVMHRichemont Group         ...
Watch business              FMG       Franck Muller Group• Fonded: 1991• Brands:     • Franck Muller, CVSTOS, Pierre      ...
Watch business             LVMH  Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy• Founded: 1987• Brands:     • Zenith,      Hublot,     TAG   ...
Watch business   Richemont Group   (ex-LMH: Les Manufactures          Horlogeres)• Founded: 1986• Brands:     • A.Lange&So...
Watch business        Rolex Group• Founded: 1946• Brands:     • Rolex, Tudor• President: Gian Riccardo Marini
Watch business        Swatch Group       (ex-SMH: Swiss Corporation forMicroelectronics and Watchmaking Industries) • Foun...
Watch fairs Baselworld
Watch fairs SIHH Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie
Watch fairs WPHH World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie
PriceWatch complications scale
Watch complicationsSmall second
Watch complicationsPower reserve
Watch complicationsDate
Watch complicationsBig date
Watch complicationsDay of the week
Watch complicationsMonth
Watch complicationsMoonphase
Watch complicationsRetrograde hands
Watch complicationsChronograph
Watch complicationsDual Time
Watch complicationsGMT
Watch complicationsAlarm
Watch complicationsSkeletonized dial
Watch complicationsAnnual calendar
Watch complicationsPerpetual calendar
Watch complicationsMinute repeater
Watch complicationsJaquemarts
Watch complicationsTourbillon
Watch price               Materials               Platinum               Gold               Titanium               Car...
After sales serviceTaking care of Swiss watches
Watch serviceAtmosThe only perpetual watch
Watch service                 Reasons                 Strokes                 Temperature (oil inside)                 ...
Watch serviceService centerRepairs are made at certified service centeronly
Watch serviceWatchwinderTaking care of automatic watches
Watch serviceLeather strapService period up to 1.5 years
Watch waterresistance< 30m (3am)    • No water contact 30m - 50m     • Minimum water contact - hand washed with watches on...
Watch waterresistance Crown Never use in water!
Thank you!
Swiss DoneQ&As
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Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

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A beginner's guide to fine Swiss watchmaking. This short overlook includes: history, modern business, glossary, brand stories, complication hierarchy and importance of service.

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Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

  1. 1. Swiss MadeSuccess story
  2. 2. Artem SkachkovMarketing manager at Noblesse
  3. 3. Watch of XXI centuryPhoneThe most reliable and practical watch in2013
  4. 4. Facts & FiguresSwiss watch industry in facts & figures
  5. 5. Swiss watch industry Switzerland  Area: 41 284 km²  Population: 7 700 200 people  GDP: more than $ 636 billion  Languages: French, German, Italian, Romansh  Government: federal republic  Districts: 26 cantons  Capital: Bern
  6. 6. Swiss watch industry Switzerland  Export: 19 300 mln. EURO  Produced: 29.8 mln. pieces  Production centers: cantons Vaud, Geneve, Neuchatel, Jura
  7. 7. Watch sales 7% 15% 18% 81% 60% 10% 7% 2% Quantity Value Switzerland Japan Others China*data from research of Harward Business School, 2010
  8. 8. Watch facts1 mmHeight of Rado ceramic case
  9. 9. Watch facts1 200 mWaterresistance of Omega watch
  10. 10. Watch facts1 500 partsMake up Franck Muller movement
  11. 11. Watch facts0,2 sm2Area of Jaeger-LeCoultre watch
  12. 12. Watch facts10 vibrationsMakes every second balance wheel ofZenith watch
  13. 13. Watch facts840 CoTemperature at the oven to produceUlysse Nardin dial
  14. 14. Professional languageBasic terms of fine watchmaking
  15. 15. Watch types Mechanical Quartz
  16. 16. Watch types Self-wound Hand-wound
  17. 17. Watch types Self-wound Hand-wound
  18. 18. Watch types ??? ???
  19. 19. Watch dictionaryMovementIMPORTANT! Terms and names
  20. 20. Watch dictionary Escapement A mechanism that is fitted between the gears and the regulating organ to suspend the gears motion at regular intervals Pendulum
  21. 21. Watch dictionary Balance A circular, moving part which oscillates on its rotational axis Heart
  22. 22. Watch dictionary Bezel A ring around the case middle that secures the crystal. Top ring
  23. 23. Watch dictionary Guilloche A decorative engraving technique in which a precise intricate repetitive pattern or design is mechanically engraved into an underlying material with fine detail Decoration
  24. 24. Watch dictionary Calibre A synonym of size. Used to denote the layout and dimensions of the different movement pillars, wheels, barrel, etc. Movement
  25. 25. Watch dictionary Jewels An international term for the jewels (rubies) in a watch movement that are used as bearings for pivots to reduce friction. Bearings
  26. 26. Watch dictionary Vibrations Movement of a pendulum or oscillating body between two extreme positions. An oscillation ("tick-tock") equals two vibrations Tick-Tock
  27. 27. Watch dictionary Rotor A semi-circular disc that freely rotates with each movement of the arm to automatically wind the mainspring. Winding
  28. 28. Watch dictionary Chronograph A watch combined with a mechanism which can be started, stopped and returned to zero on demand to measure intervals of time Stop-watch
  29. 29. Watch dictionary Chronometer A high-precision watch displaying seconds whose movement has been controlled over a period of several days, in different positions and at different temperatures, by an official neutral body Precise watch
  30. 30. HistoryFrom home manufacture to stock exchange
  31. 31. Watch historyMarine chronometerWatches with gyroscope
  32. 32. Watch history John Calvin Birth: 10 july 1509 Education: theology, law Reforms:  Creation of city council  Death penalty Ideas:  “Life at the wealth, death in the poverty”  “Denial of decorations”
  33. 33. Watch history Geography Area: mountains of Alps and Jura Average temperature: from +4 to +6 Precipitation: up 2 000 sm/year Language: French Cantons: Geneva, Vaud, Neuchatel
  34. 34. Watch historyWorkshopHome-based production of watchcomponents
  35. 35. Watch historyManufactureIndustrial watch production
  36. 36. Watch historyEvolutionFrom pocket to wrist watch
  37. 37. Watch history Rapid Development factors  Innovative progress in:  Aviation  Diving  Military  Engineering  Pursue of precision  Coroporate and government orders
  38. 38. Watch historyQuartz crisisApparent death of Swiss watch industry
  39. 39. Watch history Quartz crisis Quartz watches:  Battery powered  Highest precision  No winding  Digital analogue display Fuel crisis:  USD value fall  CHF value growth Results:  Production fall from 90 000 pieces to 33 000 pieces
  40. 40. Watch history Gunter Franck Muller Blumlein Fanck Muller RichemontErnest Nicolas Hayek Rolf W.Schneyder Schneider SWATCHBreitling Ulysse Nardin Renaissance Founding fathers of new Swiss watch industry
  41. 41. Founding fathers Gunter Blumlein • Life: 1944-2001 • Company: LMH (in 1981) – later a grew into Richemont Group • Brands: IWC, Jaeger- LeCoultre, A.Lange & Sohne • Gave second life to A.Lange&Sohne • “Savior” of Jaeger-LeCoultre from bankruptcy
  42. 42. Founding fathers Franck Muller • Life: 1958-present • Company: Franck Muller Group (founded in 1991) • Master of Complications • Watchmaker (Ecole dHorlogerie de Genève) • Co-Founder and partner – Vartan Sirmakes
  43. 43. Founding fathers Nicolas Hayer • Life: 1928-2010 • Company: Swatch Group (from 1985) • Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Omega, Jaquet Droz, Longines, Rado, Tissot, Hamilt on, Swatch, CK • Engineer, 2 PHDs • Creator of SMART car • “King” of Swiss watches • 232nd wealthiest person
  44. 44. Founding fathers Rolf W. Schnyder • Life: 1935-2011 • Company: Ulysse Nardin (bought in 1983) • Traveler, athlete • Most of the life spent in Asia (Malaysia, Thailand, China, Vietnam ) • Worked with Ludwig Oechslin
  45. 45. Founding fathers Ernest Schneider • Life: 1921-present • Company: Breitling (bought in 1979) • Professional pilot • Watchmaker and microelectronics engineer • Non-public person • Lead Breitling to manufacture status
  46. 46. Watch historyManufacture Modern production site
  47. 47. BrandsTOP watch brands
  48. 48. Watch brands
  49. 49. Watch brands Breguet  Founded: 1775  Founder: Abraham- Louis Breget  Brand meaning: Founder’s last name  Town: Valle-de-Joux
  50. 50. Watch brands Achievements  Invented tourbillon  Invented hairspring  Created dial guilloche  Produced first wrist watch
  51. 51. Watch brands Hublot  Founded: 1980  Founder: Carlo Crocco  Brand meaning: in French bull`s eye  Town: Nyon (suburbs of Geneva)
  52. 52. Watch brands Achievements  First watch on rubber bracelet  Proficency in material combination (titanium, ceramics, etc. )
  53. 53. Watch brands IWC  Founded: 1868  Founder: Florentine Ariosto Jones  Brand meaning: short for International Watch Company  Town: Schaffhausen
  54. 54. Watch brands Achievements  The only watch company in German speaking Switzerland  Masculine brand  Programmed calendar for 500 years  Classical pilot watches
  55. 55. Watch brands Jaeger-LeCoultre  Founded: 1833  Founder: Antoine LeCoultre  Brand meaning: names of partners (Edmond Jaeger and Jaques- Davide LeCoultre)  Town: Valle-de-Joux
  56. 56. Watch brands Achievements  Creator of milionometer  Full cycle manufacturing  Inventor of gyrotourbillon  Development of Extreme LAB watch
  57. 57. Watch brands Omega  Founded: 1848  Founder: Louis Brandt  Brand meaning: fro calibre named Omega (idea of perfectness)  Town: Biel/Bienne
  58. 58. Watch brands Achievements  Watch of Apollo 11 astronauts  Olympics’ official timekeeper  James Bond watch  Development of Co- Axial escapment
  59. 59. Watch brands Patek Philippe  Founded: 1839  Founders: Antoni Patek and Fransua Chapek  Brand meaning: name of partners (Antoni Patek and Jean-Adrien Philippe  Town: Plan-les-Ouates
  60. 60. Watch brands Achievements  Inventor of crown  #1 at antiquarian auctions  Champion of precision
  61. 61. Watch brands Romain Jerome  Founded: 2004  Founder: NA  Brand meaning: NA  Town: Geneva
  62. 62. Watch brands Achievements  Watches with Titanic parts  Watches with Moon dust and parts of Apollo 11  Developer of capsule collection concept  Watches for professional golfers
  63. 63. Watch brands Rolex  Founded: 1908  Founder: Hans Wilsdorf  Brand meaning: NA  Town: Biel/Bienne
  64. 64. Watch brands Achievements  Waterresistance record  Largest watch production  First automatic watch  First certified chronometer
  65. 65. Watch brands Ulysse Nardin  Founded: 1846  Founder: Ulysse Nardin  Brand meaning: name of the founder  Town: Le Lockle and La Chaux-de-Fonds
  66. 66. Watch brands Achievements  Most reliable marine chronometers  Most complicated watches – Guiness book of records  The only jaquemarts watches  Watches with silicon parts
  67. 67. Watch brands Vacheron Constantin  Founded: 1755  Founder: Jean-Mark Vacheron  Brand meaning: name of partners (Jaques- Barthélemy Vacheron and François Constantin)  Town: Plan-les-Ouates
  68. 68. Watch brands Achievements  Most ancient manufacture  First antimagnetic watch
  69. 69. BusinessWatch holdings, fairs and rewards
  70. 70. Watch business Franck Muller Group Rolex Group LVMHRichemont Group Swatch Group Holding companies Largest conglomerates
  71. 71. Watch business FMG Franck Muller Group• Fonded: 1991• Brands: • Franck Muller, CVSTOS, Pierre Kunz, Backes&Strauss, Martin Braun, Smalto, European Watch Company, Rodolphe, Roberto Cavalli, Pierre Michel Golay• President: Vartan Sirmakes
  72. 72. Watch business LVMH Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy• Founded: 1987• Brands: • Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Dior, BVLGARI, Chaume t• President: Bernard Arnault
  73. 73. Watch business Richemont Group (ex-LMH: Les Manufactures Horlogeres)• Founded: 1986• Brands: • A.Lange&Sohne, Dunhill, Bau me&Mercier, Cartier, IWC, Jae ger-LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis, Montblanc, Panerai, Pi aget, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef&Arpels, Ralph Lauren• President: Johann Peter Rupert
  74. 74. Watch business Rolex Group• Founded: 1946• Brands: • Rolex, Tudor• President: Gian Riccardo Marini
  75. 75. Watch business Swatch Group (ex-SMH: Swiss Corporation forMicroelectronics and Watchmaking Industries) • Founded: 1985 • Brands: • Breguet, Blancpain, Omega, Ja quet Droz, Longines, Rado, Tissot, H amilton, Balmain, Certina, Mid o, Endura, Swatch, Calvin Klein, Flik Flak, Leon Hatot • President: Neyla Hayek • CEO: Nick Hayek
  76. 76. Watch fairs Baselworld
  77. 77. Watch fairs SIHH Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie
  78. 78. Watch fairs WPHH World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie
  79. 79. PriceWatch complications scale
  80. 80. Watch complicationsSmall second
  81. 81. Watch complicationsPower reserve
  82. 82. Watch complicationsDate
  83. 83. Watch complicationsBig date
  84. 84. Watch complicationsDay of the week
  85. 85. Watch complicationsMonth
  86. 86. Watch complicationsMoonphase
  87. 87. Watch complicationsRetrograde hands
  88. 88. Watch complicationsChronograph
  89. 89. Watch complicationsDual Time
  90. 90. Watch complicationsGMT
  91. 91. Watch complicationsAlarm
  92. 92. Watch complicationsSkeletonized dial
  93. 93. Watch complicationsAnnual calendar
  94. 94. Watch complicationsPerpetual calendar
  95. 95. Watch complicationsMinute repeater
  96. 96. Watch complicationsJaquemarts
  97. 97. Watch complicationsTourbillon
  98. 98. Watch price Materials  Platinum  Gold  Titanium  Carbon fibre  Steel  Composite materials  Rare materials
  99. 99. After sales serviceTaking care of Swiss watches
  100. 100. Watch serviceAtmosThe only perpetual watch
  101. 101. Watch service Reasons  Strokes  Temperature (oil inside)  Water (waterristance rules)  Scratches  Time (full service)
  102. 102. Watch serviceService centerRepairs are made at certified service centeronly
  103. 103. Watch serviceWatchwinderTaking care of automatic watches
  104. 104. Watch serviceLeather strapService period up to 1.5 years
  105. 105. Watch waterresistance< 30m (3am) • No water contact 30m - 50m • Minimum water contact - hand washed with watches on 50m - 100m • Some contact with water -car washed with watches on100m - 200m • Swimming with watches on200m - 500m • Active leisure on water with watches on>500m (50am) • Diving with watches on
  106. 106. Watch waterresistance Crown Never use in water!
  107. 107. Thank you!
  108. 108. Swiss DoneQ&As
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