Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking
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Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

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A beginner's guide to fine Swiss watchmaking. This short overlook includes: history, modern business, glossary, brand stories, complication hierarchy and importance of service.

A beginner's guide to fine Swiss watchmaking. This short overlook includes: history, modern business, glossary, brand stories, complication hierarchy and importance of service.

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  • 1. Swiss MadeSuccess story
  • 2. Artem SkachkovMarketing manager at Noblesse
  • 3. Watch of XXI centuryPhoneThe most reliable and practical watch in2013
  • 4. Facts & FiguresSwiss watch industry in facts & figures
  • 5. Swiss watch industry Switzerland  Area: 41 284 km²  Population: 7 700 200 people  GDP: more than $ 636 billion  Languages: French, German, Italian, Romansh  Government: federal republic  Districts: 26 cantons  Capital: Bern
  • 6. Swiss watch industry Switzerland  Export: 19 300 mln. EURO  Produced: 29.8 mln. pieces  Production centers: cantons Vaud, Geneve, Neuchatel, Jura
  • 7. Watch sales 7% 15% 18% 81% 60% 10% 7% 2% Quantity Value Switzerland Japan Others China*data from research of Harward Business School, 2010
  • 8. Watch facts1 mmHeight of Rado ceramic case
  • 9. Watch facts1 200 mWaterresistance of Omega watch
  • 10. Watch facts1 500 partsMake up Franck Muller movement
  • 11. Watch facts0,2 sm2Area of Jaeger-LeCoultre watch
  • 12. Watch facts10 vibrationsMakes every second balance wheel ofZenith watch
  • 13. Watch facts840 CoTemperature at the oven to produceUlysse Nardin dial
  • 14. Professional languageBasic terms of fine watchmaking
  • 15. Watch types Mechanical Quartz
  • 16. Watch types Self-wound Hand-wound
  • 17. Watch types Self-wound Hand-wound
  • 18. Watch types ??? ???
  • 19. Watch dictionaryMovementIMPORTANT! Terms and names
  • 20. Watch dictionary Escapement A mechanism that is fitted between the gears and the regulating organ to suspend the gears motion at regular intervals Pendulum
  • 21. Watch dictionary Balance A circular, moving part which oscillates on its rotational axis Heart
  • 22. Watch dictionary Bezel A ring around the case middle that secures the crystal. Top ring
  • 23. Watch dictionary Guilloche A decorative engraving technique in which a precise intricate repetitive pattern or design is mechanically engraved into an underlying material with fine detail Decoration
  • 24. Watch dictionary Calibre A synonym of size. Used to denote the layout and dimensions of the different movement pillars, wheels, barrel, etc. Movement
  • 25. Watch dictionary Jewels An international term for the jewels (rubies) in a watch movement that are used as bearings for pivots to reduce friction. Bearings
  • 26. Watch dictionary Vibrations Movement of a pendulum or oscillating body between two extreme positions. An oscillation ("tick-tock") equals two vibrations Tick-Tock
  • 27. Watch dictionary Rotor A semi-circular disc that freely rotates with each movement of the arm to automatically wind the mainspring. Winding
  • 28. Watch dictionary Chronograph A watch combined with a mechanism which can be started, stopped and returned to zero on demand to measure intervals of time Stop-watch
  • 29. Watch dictionary Chronometer A high-precision watch displaying seconds whose movement has been controlled over a period of several days, in different positions and at different temperatures, by an official neutral body Precise watch
  • 30. HistoryFrom home manufacture to stock exchange
  • 31. Watch historyMarine chronometerWatches with gyroscope
  • 32. Watch history John Calvin Birth: 10 july 1509 Education: theology, law Reforms:  Creation of city council  Death penalty Ideas:  “Life at the wealth, death in the poverty”  “Denial of decorations”
  • 33. Watch history Geography Area: mountains of Alps and Jura Average temperature: from +4 to +6 Precipitation: up 2 000 sm/year Language: French Cantons: Geneva, Vaud, Neuchatel
  • 34. Watch historyWorkshopHome-based production of watchcomponents
  • 35. Watch historyManufactureIndustrial watch production
  • 36. Watch historyEvolutionFrom pocket to wrist watch
  • 37. Watch history Rapid Development factors  Innovative progress in:  Aviation  Diving  Military  Engineering  Pursue of precision  Coroporate and government orders
  • 38. Watch historyQuartz crisisApparent death of Swiss watch industry
  • 39. Watch history Quartz crisis Quartz watches:  Battery powered  Highest precision  No winding  Digital analogue display Fuel crisis:  USD value fall  CHF value growth Results:  Production fall from 90 000 pieces to 33 000 pieces
  • 40. Watch history Gunter Franck Muller Blumlein Fanck Muller RichemontErnest Nicolas Hayek Rolf W.Schneyder Schneider SWATCHBreitling Ulysse Nardin Renaissance Founding fathers of new Swiss watch industry
  • 41. Founding fathers Gunter Blumlein • Life: 1944-2001 • Company: LMH (in 1981) – later a grew into Richemont Group • Brands: IWC, Jaeger- LeCoultre, A.Lange & Sohne • Gave second life to A.Lange&Sohne • “Savior” of Jaeger-LeCoultre from bankruptcy
  • 42. Founding fathers Franck Muller • Life: 1958-present • Company: Franck Muller Group (founded in 1991) • Master of Complications • Watchmaker (Ecole dHorlogerie de Genève) • Co-Founder and partner – Vartan Sirmakes
  • 43. Founding fathers Nicolas Hayer • Life: 1928-2010 • Company: Swatch Group (from 1985) • Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Omega, Jaquet Droz, Longines, Rado, Tissot, Hamilt on, Swatch, CK • Engineer, 2 PHDs • Creator of SMART car • “King” of Swiss watches • 232nd wealthiest person
  • 44. Founding fathers Rolf W. Schnyder • Life: 1935-2011 • Company: Ulysse Nardin (bought in 1983) • Traveler, athlete • Most of the life spent in Asia (Malaysia, Thailand, China, Vietnam ) • Worked with Ludwig Oechslin
  • 45. Founding fathers Ernest Schneider • Life: 1921-present • Company: Breitling (bought in 1979) • Professional pilot • Watchmaker and microelectronics engineer • Non-public person • Lead Breitling to manufacture status
  • 46. Watch historyManufacture Modern production site
  • 47. BrandsTOP watch brands
  • 48. Watch brands
  • 49. Watch brands Breguet  Founded: 1775  Founder: Abraham- Louis Breget  Brand meaning: Founder’s last name  Town: Valle-de-Joux
  • 50. Watch brands Achievements  Invented tourbillon  Invented hairspring  Created dial guilloche  Produced first wrist watch
  • 51. Watch brands Hublot  Founded: 1980  Founder: Carlo Crocco  Brand meaning: in French bull`s eye  Town: Nyon (suburbs of Geneva)
  • 52. Watch brands Achievements  First watch on rubber bracelet  Proficency in material combination (titanium, ceramics, etc. )
  • 53. Watch brands IWC  Founded: 1868  Founder: Florentine Ariosto Jones  Brand meaning: short for International Watch Company  Town: Schaffhausen
  • 54. Watch brands Achievements  The only watch company in German speaking Switzerland  Masculine brand  Programmed calendar for 500 years  Classical pilot watches
  • 55. Watch brands Jaeger-LeCoultre  Founded: 1833  Founder: Antoine LeCoultre  Brand meaning: names of partners (Edmond Jaeger and Jaques- Davide LeCoultre)  Town: Valle-de-Joux
  • 56. Watch brands Achievements  Creator of milionometer  Full cycle manufacturing  Inventor of gyrotourbillon  Development of Extreme LAB watch
  • 57. Watch brands Omega  Founded: 1848  Founder: Louis Brandt  Brand meaning: fro calibre named Omega (idea of perfectness)  Town: Biel/Bienne
  • 58. Watch brands Achievements  Watch of Apollo 11 astronauts  Olympics’ official timekeeper  James Bond watch  Development of Co- Axial escapment
  • 59. Watch brands Patek Philippe  Founded: 1839  Founders: Antoni Patek and Fransua Chapek  Brand meaning: name of partners (Antoni Patek and Jean-Adrien Philippe  Town: Plan-les-Ouates
  • 60. Watch brands Achievements  Inventor of crown  #1 at antiquarian auctions  Champion of precision
  • 61. Watch brands Romain Jerome  Founded: 2004  Founder: NA  Brand meaning: NA  Town: Geneva
  • 62. Watch brands Achievements  Watches with Titanic parts  Watches with Moon dust and parts of Apollo 11  Developer of capsule collection concept  Watches for professional golfers
  • 63. Watch brands Rolex  Founded: 1908  Founder: Hans Wilsdorf  Brand meaning: NA  Town: Biel/Bienne
  • 64. Watch brands Achievements  Waterresistance record  Largest watch production  First automatic watch  First certified chronometer
  • 65. Watch brands Ulysse Nardin  Founded: 1846  Founder: Ulysse Nardin  Brand meaning: name of the founder  Town: Le Lockle and La Chaux-de-Fonds
  • 66. Watch brands Achievements  Most reliable marine chronometers  Most complicated watches – Guiness book of records  The only jaquemarts watches  Watches with silicon parts
  • 67. Watch brands Vacheron Constantin  Founded: 1755  Founder: Jean-Mark Vacheron  Brand meaning: name of partners (Jaques- Barthélemy Vacheron and François Constantin)  Town: Plan-les-Ouates
  • 68. Watch brands Achievements  Most ancient manufacture  First antimagnetic watch
  • 69. BusinessWatch holdings, fairs and rewards
  • 70. Watch business Franck Muller Group Rolex Group LVMHRichemont Group Swatch Group Holding companies Largest conglomerates
  • 71. Watch business FMG Franck Muller Group• Fonded: 1991• Brands: • Franck Muller, CVSTOS, Pierre Kunz, Backes&Strauss, Martin Braun, Smalto, European Watch Company, Rodolphe, Roberto Cavalli, Pierre Michel Golay• President: Vartan Sirmakes
  • 72. Watch business LVMH Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy• Founded: 1987• Brands: • Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Dior, BVLGARI, Chaume t• President: Bernard Arnault
  • 73. Watch business Richemont Group (ex-LMH: Les Manufactures Horlogeres)• Founded: 1986• Brands: • A.Lange&Sohne, Dunhill, Bau me&Mercier, Cartier, IWC, Jae ger-LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis, Montblanc, Panerai, Pi aget, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef&Arpels, Ralph Lauren• President: Johann Peter Rupert
  • 74. Watch business Rolex Group• Founded: 1946• Brands: • Rolex, Tudor• President: Gian Riccardo Marini
  • 75. Watch business Swatch Group (ex-SMH: Swiss Corporation forMicroelectronics and Watchmaking Industries) • Founded: 1985 • Brands: • Breguet, Blancpain, Omega, Ja quet Droz, Longines, Rado, Tissot, H amilton, Balmain, Certina, Mid o, Endura, Swatch, Calvin Klein, Flik Flak, Leon Hatot • President: Neyla Hayek • CEO: Nick Hayek
  • 76. Watch fairs Baselworld
  • 77. Watch fairs SIHH Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie
  • 78. Watch fairs WPHH World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie
  • 79. PriceWatch complications scale
  • 80. Watch complicationsSmall second
  • 81. Watch complicationsPower reserve
  • 82. Watch complicationsDate
  • 83. Watch complicationsBig date
  • 84. Watch complicationsDay of the week
  • 85. Watch complicationsMonth
  • 86. Watch complicationsMoonphase
  • 87. Watch complicationsRetrograde hands
  • 88. Watch complicationsChronograph
  • 89. Watch complicationsDual Time
  • 90. Watch complicationsGMT
  • 91. Watch complicationsAlarm
  • 92. Watch complicationsSkeletonized dial
  • 93. Watch complicationsAnnual calendar
  • 94. Watch complicationsPerpetual calendar
  • 95. Watch complicationsMinute repeater
  • 96. Watch complicationsJaquemarts
  • 97. Watch complicationsTourbillon
  • 98. Watch price Materials  Platinum  Gold  Titanium  Carbon fibre  Steel  Composite materials  Rare materials
  • 99. After sales serviceTaking care of Swiss watches
  • 100. Watch serviceAtmosThe only perpetual watch
  • 101. Watch service Reasons  Strokes  Temperature (oil inside)  Water (waterristance rules)  Scratches  Time (full service)
  • 102. Watch serviceService centerRepairs are made at certified service centeronly
  • 103. Watch serviceWatchwinderTaking care of automatic watches
  • 104. Watch serviceLeather strapService period up to 1.5 years
  • 105. Watch waterresistance< 30m (3am) • No water contact 30m - 50m • Minimum water contact - hand washed with watches on 50m - 100m • Some contact with water -car washed with watches on100m - 200m • Swimming with watches on200m - 500m • Active leisure on water with watches on>500m (50am) • Diving with watches on
  • 106. Watch waterresistance Crown Never use in water!
  • 107. Thank you!
  • 108. Swiss DoneQ&As