- Anay N. Kacharia- Pooja Mohanty
Historical Facts Mesopotamian women were the first todecorate their lips Abulcasis was the inventor of solid lipsticks ...
 Colour Appearance Uniformity of colour Shelf life
 Amount of Pigmentation on First wear Presence of any Smudgy feel Lasting Power Wether or not lipstick Glides on Easily
Ingredients in Lipsticks   Colouring materials-            Ingredient       Amount in %      Staining dyes (Bromo    0.5 ...
 Staining dyes-Eosin Dyes -
 Pigments –(For intensity and Variation of colour) Titanium dioxide –• Helps in obtaining Pink shades• Gives opacity• Ve...
   Base –     A)   Solid waxes-(Such as)          1) Beeswax          2) Ozokerite          3) Carnauba          4) Cande...
   Liquid components-    1) Castor Oil (Most Widely Used)    2) Mineral Oil (Gives Gloss (1-5%) )    3) Butyl Stearate   ...
Other Ingredients Includes-   Perfumes-(Generally light sophisticated type with an Essential Oil)   Preservatives- (Para...
Manufacture of lipsticks 5 Major Operations:- • Colour Grinding • Melting and mixing • Moulding • Flaming • Packaging
Types of lipsticks
Pearlescent lipstick• Pearlescent pigments  possess optical effects  that serve decorative  purposes.• Titanium dioxide fl...
FormulationSOLUTION   FORMULA CONTENT            PERCENTAGEA          OZOKERITE                  3.00           CANDELILLA...
SOLUTION   FORMULA CONTENTS                         PERCENTAGEB          D&C ORANGE NO. 5 ZIRCONIUM LAKE          2.25    ...
BrandsBRAND        REVLON                            AMWAYMAJOR        Trioctyldodecyl                   Capric, octyl met...
Lipstick for Hot Countries• Enriched with Botanical  extracts.• Hydrates and protects lips  for hours• Color pigments cont...
FormulationSOLUTION    FORMULA CONTENTS       PERCENATGEA           OZOKERITE              12.00            HYDROGENATED C...
Pigments used…• Mica                      •   Red 27 lake (CI 45410)• Iron oxide (CI            •   Red 33 lake (CI 17200)...
BrandsBRAND        LAKME 9 TO 5                         NYXMAJOR        Trioctyldodecylcitrate,Ethylhexyl    Diisostearyl ...
High Gloss Lipstick• Gives lips a glossy  luster and  sometimes subtle  color.• Distributed as a  liquid or solid.• Can be...
FormulationCONTENT            PERCENTAGE   CONTENT          PERCENTAGELANOLIN OIL        12.48        OLEYL ALCOHOL    32....
Pigments used• CI 77019 (Mica),       • CI 45380 (Red 21/Red 21• CI 77891 (Titanium       Lake/Red 22 Lake),  Dioxide),   ...
BrandsBRAND        L’OREAL                            SEPHORAMAJOR         sesame seed oil, oleyl erucate,   Glyceryl Capr...
• The inventor is Debra Digirlamo• It uses soluble or soluble or Solublized dyes• It uses suitable solvents like monoalkyl...
Content                                PercentPolyamide Resin(average MW 800)         20Polyamide Reisin(average MW 600-70...
Content            PercentEthoxylated Lanolin alcohols   10.1(5 moles EO)Anhydrous Isopropanol           5Perfume         ...
Liquid lipsticks
• These lipsticks provide more permanentfilms•‘Smarting’ is an issue that occurs onapplication of these types of lipsticks.
Brand         Chambor                        CP Trendies   Key        Polybutene, Mineral oil,       polybuteneIngredients...
Evaluation of finished products•   Color control•   Determination of melting point•   Softening point•   Microbial testing...
Defects in lipsticks• Problems with Ingredients• Moulding related problems
Formulation related problems• Sweating: caused due to high oil content or in  ferior oil binding• Bleeding: separation of ...
Moulding related problems• Laddering: lipstick does not look smooth or  homogeneous• Deformation: noticeable in softer for...
Deformation occurring when coring takes place on side of the mould
LADDERING DEFORMATION CRATERING   MUSHY                                  FAILURE
Hidden Problems with Ingredients
References:-• Cosmetic technology by Sanju Nanda• Harry’s Cosmeticology•Wikipedia
Lipatick ppt  (2)))))
Lipatick ppt  (2)))))
Lipatick ppt  (2)))))
Lipatick ppt  (2)))))
Lipatick ppt  (2)))))
Lipatick ppt  (2)))))
Lipatick ppt  (2)))))
Lipatick ppt  (2)))))
Lipatick ppt  (2)))))
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  •  Substrate-free TiO2 flakes can also be achieved from TiO2-mica pigments by dissolving the substrate in strong acids or hydroxides. The so-obtained titanium dioxide flakes are not single crystals but polycrystalline and slightly porous. 
  • Symphytum  Officinale (Comfrey) – The herb contains allantoin, a cell proliferant that speeds up the natural replacement of body cellsPlantago  Ovata Seed – Has astringent properties.Sambucus  Nigra Seed – Gives protection from free radicals, soothing, anti-inflammatory activity as well as extra cellular matrix reinforcement. A natural healing Herb to help the skin repair itself.
  • various shades of opacity, including frosted, glittered, glassy, and metallic finishes.
  • Argan oil is such a good ingredient that it deserves pride of place in the advertisements for Colour Riche as well as within the lipstick itself. Perhaps, L'Oreal believes that argan oil is too obscure for the average lipstick buyer. Maybe, but who, off the top of their heads, could come up with a precise definition of serum.Argan is a queen amongst oils. Here are a few factoids that L'Oreal might consider for the next campaign. Argan is a powerful antioxidant due to high levels of tocopherols (vitamin E). In this regard, argan oil puts olive oil in the shade with twice the level of tocopherols and ten times as many gamma-tocopherols.Argan oil, which is harvested from a Morrocan tree, Argan oil is high in unsaturated fatty acids. Better, even than fish oil or coconut oil and about on a par with olive, according to a study on mice. It is made up of 45% oleic acid (18:1), omega-9 and 35% Linoleic acid (18:2), omega-6.
  • Methylparaben is a preservative used in many beauty products ... at least in the U.S. Use of these chemicals is restricted in the European Union because they've been linked to cancer, may disrupt the endocrine system, or be toxic in other ways. The Cosmetics Database labels them a "high hazard."Propylparaben is a frequently used cosmetics ingredient that can irritate skin and eyes or cause reactions in those who are allergic. Some studies have also raised concerns about endocrine disruption, cancer and other toxic effects. It is rated a "moderate hazard" by the Cosmetics Database.RetinylPalmitate is a synthetic form of vitamin A that may be toxic to pregnant women. It is rated a "moderate hazard" by the Cosmetics Database because limited evidence links exposure to a range of health problems, from cancer to reproductive effects.Colorants, such as D&C Red 36 (rated "low hazard"), and D&C Red 22 Aluminum Lake (rated "moderate hazard") are typically tested on animals, and have raised concerns because some research has linked exposure to nervous system damage and other health concerns.Tocopheryl Acetate, also known as vitamin E acetate, is used in a variety of products, including lipstick, moisturizer and foundation. The Cosmetics Database rates it as a "moderate hazard" because it may cause itching, burning, scaling, hives and skin blistering, and may be toxic. 
  • Lipatick ppt (2)))))

    1. 1. - Anay N. Kacharia- Pooja Mohanty
    2. 2. Historical Facts Mesopotamian women were the first todecorate their lips Abulcasis was the inventor of solid lipsticks The Lipstick Revolution started in the 16thcentury EnglandFranceAmericaIndia
    3. 3.  Colour Appearance Uniformity of colour Shelf life
    4. 4.  Amount of Pigmentation on First wear Presence of any Smudgy feel Lasting Power Wether or not lipstick Glides on Easily
    5. 5. Ingredients in Lipsticks Colouring materials- Ingredient Amount in % Staining dyes (Bromo 0.5 - 3 Acids) Oil Soluble Pigments 2 Insoluble Pigments 8 - 10 Titanium Dioxide 1 - 4
    6. 6.  Staining dyes-Eosin Dyes -
    7. 7.  Pigments –(For intensity and Variation of colour) Titanium dioxide –• Helps in obtaining Pink shades• Gives opacity• Very high Degree of Brightness
    8. 8.  Base – A) Solid waxes-(Such as) 1) Beeswax 2) Ozokerite 3) Carnauba 4) Candelilla B) Softening agents (Such as) 1) Modified Lanolins 2) Cocoa Butter
    9. 9.  Liquid components- 1) Castor Oil (Most Widely Used) 2) Mineral Oil (Gives Gloss (1-5%) ) 3) Butyl Stearate 4) Oleyl Alcohol 5) Propylene Glycol 6) Isopropyl Myristate(Increases lip gloss) 7) Silicone fluids(Particularly Dimethyl silicone)
    10. 10. Other Ingredients Includes- Perfumes-(Generally light sophisticated type with an Essential Oil) Preservatives- (Paraben Family) Antioxidants-(BHA ,BHT, Propyl Gallate) UV Filters- (Benzophenone)
    11. 11. Manufacture of lipsticks 5 Major Operations:- • Colour Grinding • Melting and mixing • Moulding • Flaming • Packaging
    12. 12. Types of lipsticks
    13. 13. Pearlescent lipstick• Pearlescent pigments possess optical effects that serve decorative purposes.• Titanium dioxide flakes are not single crystals but polycrystalline and slightly porous.• Packed with Vitamin E and Castor Oils for continuous moisture.
    14. 14. FormulationSOLUTION FORMULA CONTENT PERCENTAGEA OZOKERITE 3.00 CANDELILLA WAX 9.00 YELLOW CARNAUBA WAX 3.00 BEESWAX 2.00 GLYCERYL DILAURATE 5.00 C12 C15 ALCOHOL LACTATE 5.00 ISOSTEARYL NEOPENTANOATE 12.00 CASTOR OIL 26.00 LANOLIN 9.20 MINERAL OIL 5.00 OCTYL DIMETHYL PABA 0.15 ANTIOXIDANT 0.05
    15. 15. SOLUTION FORMULA CONTENTS PERCENTAGEB D&C ORANGE NO. 5 ZIRCONIUM LAKE 2.25 OCTYLDODECYL STREARAYL STEARATE 5.25C F D&C BLUE NO. 1 Al LAKE IN CASTOR OIL 0.80D MICA AND TITANIUM DIOXIDE 10.00E FRAGRANCE 0.30
    16. 16. BrandsBRAND REVLON AMWAYMAJOR Trioctyldodecyl Capric, octyl methoxyINGREDIENT Citrate,Polybutene, Ethylhexyl cinnamate, octyl triisotearyl Palmitate, Octyldodecyl citrate, benzophenone-3, PVP/ Neopentanoate, Pentaerythrityl hexadecene copolymer, shea Tetraisostearate,Bis Diglyceryl butter, almond oil, jajoba oil, Polyacyladipate 2,Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C) Serica Poudre de Soie (Silk Powder), SILICACOST Rs 525 Rs 259STAYING 6-7 HRS `4-5 HRSPOWER
    17. 17. Lipstick for Hot Countries• Enriched with Botanical extracts.• Hydrates and protects lips for hours• Color pigments contain:I) Symphytum Officinale (Comfrey)II)Sambucus Nigra SeedIII)Plantago Ovata Seed
    18. 18. FormulationSOLUTION FORMULA CONTENTS PERCENATGEA OZOKERITE 12.00 HYDROGENATED CASTOR 12.00 OIL HYDROGENATED COCONUT 13.00 OIL CETYL RICINOLEATE 2.50 GLYCERYL ABIETATE 2.50 ANTIOXIDANT (BHA) 0.50B CASTOR OIL 35.00C PIGMENTS AND PERFUMES q.s.
    19. 19. Pigments used…• Mica • Red 27 lake (CI 45410)• Iron oxide (CI • Red 33 lake (CI 17200) 77491,77492,77499) • Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985)• Titanium dioxide (CI • Blue 1 lake (CI 42090) 77891) • Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140)• Bismuth oxychloride (CI • Carmine (CI 75470) 77163) • Red 7 lake (CI 15850)• Red 6 lake (CI 15850)
    20. 20. BrandsBRAND LAKME 9 TO 5 NYXMAJOR Trioctyldodecylcitrate,Ethylhexyl Diisostearyl Malate,PolyglycerylINGREDIENT palmitate,Octyldodecylpentanot -2 Triisostearate,Isostearyl etraisostearate,Caprylic/capric Isostearate, Bis-Digylceryl triglyceride,C10-30 cholesterol/ Polyacyladipade-2,Tocopheryl lanosterol esters,B15- diglycerylc Acetate, Polyethylene, polyadipate-2,Calcium sodim octyldodeanol, bromosilicate,paraffin Polyisobutene,Ethylhexyl Palmitate,Ceresin,COST Rs 375 Rs 209STAYING 8-9 HRS `6-7 HRSPOWER
    21. 21. High Gloss Lipstick• Gives lips a glossy luster and sometimes subtle color.• Distributed as a liquid or solid.• Can be translucent, or various shades of opacity.
    22. 22. FormulationCONTENT PERCENTAGE CONTENT PERCENTAGELANOLIN OIL 12.48 OLEYL ALCOHOL 32.63C10-C30 ESTERS 7.39 CASTOR OIL 20.57PARAFFIN WAX 2.11 C18-C36 ACID 9.51 TRIGLYCERIDEC18-C36 ACID 6.34 BHA 0.05GLYCOL ESTERPERFUME 1.00 D&C RED NO. 21 0.22TITANIUM DIOXIDE 2.85 BROWN IRON 0.61 OXIDED&C RED NO. 6 1.21 PEARL AGENTS 3.03(BARIUM LAKE)
    23. 23. Pigments used• CI 77019 (Mica), • CI 45380 (Red 21/Red 21• CI 77891 (Titanium Lake/Red 22 Lake), Dioxide), • CI 73360 (Red 30),• CI 77491/77492/77499 • CI 16035 (Red 40 Lake), (Iron Oxides), • CI 19140 (Yellow 5 Lake),• CI 771663 (Bismuth • CI 15985 (Yellow 6 Lake). Oxychloride), • CI 42090 (Blue 1 Lake),• CI 75470 (Carmine), • CI 15850 (Red 6/Red 6• CI 77742 (Manganese Lake/Red 7/Red 7 Lake), Violet), • CI 77947 (Zinc Oxide),
    24. 24. BrandsBRAND L’OREAL SEPHORAMAJOR sesame seed oil, oleyl erucate, Glyceryl Caprylate,INGREDIENT disteardimonium hectorite, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl tocopheryl acetate Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, rosa canina fruit oil,calcium Tocopherol,Bis- aluminum borosilicate,silica, Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl argan oil, geraniol,hexyl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer cinnamal, hydroxycitronellal, Dilinoleate, calcium sodium borosilicate, Isocetyl Stearate, synthetic fluorphlogopite, Diisostearyl Malate, methyl-2 octynoate, Polybutene polyethylene terephthalate, polymethyl methacrylateCOST Rs 690 Rs 569STAYING 7-8 HRS `5-6 HRSPOWER
    25. 25. • The inventor is Debra Digirlamo• It uses soluble or soluble or Solublized dyes• It uses suitable solvents like monoalkylolamideof mixed fatty acids or dipropylene glycolmethyl ether.• Provides a natural and a sophisticated finish
    26. 26. Content PercentPolyamide Resin(average MW 800) 20Polyamide Reisin(average MW 600-700) 5Propylene Glycol Monolaurate 28Castor Oil 12.6Eosin 0.3Dipropylene glycol methyl ether 8Ethoxylated lanolin ether 10
    27. 27. Content PercentEthoxylated Lanolin alcohols 10.1(5 moles EO)Anhydrous Isopropanol 5Perfume 1
    28. 28. Liquid lipsticks
    29. 29. • These lipsticks provide more permanentfilms•‘Smarting’ is an issue that occurs onapplication of these types of lipsticks.
    30. 30. Brand Chambor CP Trendies Key Polybutene, Mineral oil, polybuteneIngredients Shea Butter, Octyl ,lanolin,isopropyl dodecanol,Triclosan, palmitate,castoroil , Emulsifying wax, stearalkonium hectorite, Hexadecene co –polymer, silica ,propylene Candelila wax, BHT, Propyl carbonate ,aloe Paraben ,Vit A palmitate, barbadensis leaf extract Vit E Acetate, Bees wax, .mineral oil ,coconut oil, Microfine titanium dioxide, tocopheryl acetate ,wheat Silica, cetearyl alcohol, germ glycerides , almond Glyceryl Mono Stearate, oil ,propylparaben , Octyl dimethyl PABA, Beta allantoin,BHT,fragrance. Sitosterol, Oxynex ST liquid titanium dioxide , . Micro crystalline wax Bismuth .Perfume oxychloride,Allantoin
    31. 31. Evaluation of finished products• Color control• Determination of melting point• Softening point• Microbial testing (IS: 9875:1990)• Rancidity (IS: 10284:1982)• Rupture test• Breaking load test ( IS 9875:1990)
    32. 32. Defects in lipsticks• Problems with Ingredients• Moulding related problems
    33. 33. Formulation related problems• Sweating: caused due to high oil content or in ferior oil binding• Bleeding: separation of colored liquids from waxy base• Blooming: due to higher %age of cetyl alcohol• Streaking: expected to be caused due to titanium dioxide
    34. 34. Moulding related problems• Laddering: lipstick does not look smooth or homogeneous• Deformation: noticeable in softer formulae• Cratering: shows up flaming when stick develops dimples• Mushy Failure: caused due to granularity of carnauba wax
    35. 35. Deformation occurring when coring takes place on side of the mould
    36. 36. LADDERING DEFORMATION CRATERING MUSHY FAILURE
    37. 37. Hidden Problems with Ingredients
    38. 38. References:-• Cosmetic technology by Sanju Nanda• Harry’s Cosmeticology•Wikipedia
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