Fusing spme final


Published on

Published in: Education, Business, Technology
1 Like
  • Be the first to comment

No Downloads
Total Views
On Slideshare
From Embeds
Number of Embeds
Embeds 0
No embeds

No notes for slide

Fusing spme final

  1. 1. FUSING By: Ashutosh Kumar Ashutosh vatsa Kr. Pramendra Sinha S.k. Pegu
  2. 2. What is Fusing? It is a process of attaching an interlining, especially to the part of a garment that requires stiffness. Some of the application area of Fusing in a garment are placket, collar, cuff, waistband, men's jacket forefront, etc.
  3. 3. Requirements for Fusing Base Cloth Resins Coating System Interlining
  4. 4. Base Clothes (Substrate) <ul><li>It is an interlining material onto which the thermoplastic resin is coated, sprayed or printed. </li></ul><ul><li>Properties of Garment influenced: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Handle and Bulk </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Shape Retention </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Shrinkage Control </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Crease – Recovery </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Appearance </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Durability </li></ul></ul>Non-woven Knitted Woven Types:
  5. 5. Types of Interlining Woven <ul><ul><li>•• Produced from animal hair, viscose, cotton, polyester or acrylic fiber. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Maximum control on shrinkage and shape retention. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Varying properties in warp and weft direction. </li></ul></ul>Knitted <ul><ul><li>•• Produced from Polyester, polyamide, acrylic and viscose fiber. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Elasticity to the fused Components. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Soft and lofty handle. </li></ul></ul>Non-woven <ul><ul><li>•• Originated from paper industry. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Mixture of fiber held together at bond sites. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Factors affecting end performance: fiber, web formation, bonding. </li></ul></ul>
  6. 6. Woven Interlining Knitted Interlining Non-Woven Interlining
  7. 7. Non woven Interlining <ul><ul><li>Extensively used in Industry. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Properties could be modified as per end uses. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Fibers: mostly Synthetic fiber like viscose, nylon, polyester or acrylic is used. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Web Formation: orientation of fiber in substrate </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Dry laid web formation </li></ul></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Wet laid web formation </li></ul></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Spun bonded webs </li></ul></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Bonding: locking of fiber together. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Mechanical bonding </li></ul></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Chemical bonding </li></ul></ul></ul></ul>
  8. 8. Resins The material applied to base cloth and when subjected to heat and pressure, they become the sole bonding agent between Top cloth and Interlining. Thermoplasticity, change with heat, is the basis of fusible interlinings. In cold state, it is not adhesive, when subjected to heat and pressure, melts and creates a bond.
  9. 9. Factors affecting suitability of Resins: <ul><ul><li>Upper limit temperature </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><ul><li>generally not more than 1750c, should not damage top cloth </li></ul></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Lower limit temperature </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><ul><li>generally not less than 1100c, to ensure adequacy of bonding </li></ul></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Cleanability </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><ul><li>To withstand the washing and cleaning throughout life of garment </li></ul></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Thermoplasticity </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Change in heat and pressure is sufficient enough to form a bond with top cloth </li></ul></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Handle </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Should contribute to desire handle of final laminate </li></ul></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Safety </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Harmless in processing and end-use </li></ul></ul></ul></ul>
  10. 10. Types of Resins <ul><ul><li>Polyethylene : used for wash and wear garments, washable and Dry-cleanable. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Polyamide : Dry-cleanable. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Polyester : Cheaper, wide range of fusing temperature (650-1200C). </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>PVC : used for siliconized rainwear fabric, requires softening with plasticizers. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Resin Blends : used for specific purposes, blend of above mentioned maerial. </li></ul></ul>
  11. 11. Distribution of Resin Inadequate bonding (incorrect) Strike through and strike Back (incorrect) Correct bonding with good Penetration of Adhesive (correct)
  12. 12. Components of Fusing <ul><ul><li>•• Resin melt Temp. is 1300-1600C, applied Temp. should be in the range of ±50C </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Too high Temp. could cause strike through or strike back </li></ul></ul>Temperature <ul><ul><li>•• Use of electro-mechanical timing devices to measure time </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Time applied depends upon type and nature of resin, substrate, top cloth and fusing equipments. </li></ul></ul>Time <ul><ul><li>•• Reduces the latent temperature to 300C </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Use of water cooled plates, air-circulation, vacuum. </li></ul></ul>Cooling <ul><ul><li>•• Used to establish an intimate contact between to-cloth and fusible. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Applied via platens, bucks or nip rollers. </li></ul></ul>Pressure
  13. 13. <ul><li>Single Fusing </li></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Fusible positioned on the top of the Cloth </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Reverse Fusing </li></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Cloth is Positioned on the top of Fusible </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Sandwich Fusing </li></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Fusing 2 components in 1 operation </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Cloth on the outside, 2 fusible in the middle </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Double Fusing </li></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Fusing 2 fusible positioned one on the top of other, to the top cloth in 1 operation </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Top Fusing </li></ul><ul><ul><li>•• Fusible components are positioned on the top of the cloth and heat I applied directly to the top cloth </li></ul></ul>Fusing Methods
  14. 14. Coating System The process in which thermoplastic resin is deposited or secured onto the substrate material. It involves the application of carefully selected Particle size fraction of Particular resin being used.
  15. 15. Coating Methods: <ul><ul><li>Scatter coating: </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>largest particle size 150 to 400 microns </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Specifically designed scattering heads provides scatter under automatic control </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Resin is softened in an oven </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Pressed on base cloth and cooled </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Cheapest method </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Product is not uniform and flexible </li></ul></ul></ul>
  16. 16. Coating Methods (Contd): <ul><ul><li>Dry dot printed coating: </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Powdered resin fills engraved holes on the roller </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Base cloth passed over heated roller </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Then against engraved rollers </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>The powdered resin adheres to cloth in from of dots </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Followed by oven heating for permanent adhesion </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Temp and pressure of rollers depends on resin types </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Pattern : 3 – 12 dots /cm </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Light weight fabric - small dot – high concentration </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Heavy weight fabric – large dot – small concentration </li></ul></ul></ul>
  17. 17. Coating Methods (Contd): <ul><ul><li>Paste coating: </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Resin powder blended with water or other agents to form smooth paste </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Printed on base cloth </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Heat removes water </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Gives precisely shaped dots ANUSHA </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Gives fine dots </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Used in shirt colour fusible </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Performed system </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Extrusion laminating </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Emulsion laminating </li></ul></ul>
  18. 18. Defects in fusing Process:
  19. 19. Fusing Equipments Flat Bed Press Continuous Fusing Machine Hand Iron Steam Press High Frequency Fusing
  20. 20. Flat Bed Press <ul><ul><li>Padded top and Bottom bucks </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Heating Element in 1 or both bucks </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Bottom Buck Static, Top buck can be moved vertically </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Option of Single tray and Twin tray systems </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Low Productivity </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>The three processes are Loading, Fusing and Cooling. </li></ul></ul>
  21. 21. Flat Bed Press
  22. 22. Continuous Fusing Press <ul><ul><li>Use of Conveyor Belt as a mean of transport </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Synchronized belt speed </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Heating plates, cylinder, rollers, and heating zones are used </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Rubber covered steel rollers to apply pressure </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Air cooling and water cooling systems </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Take off could be done manually or mechanically </li></ul></ul>
  23. 23. Continuous Fusing Press
  24. 24. High Frequency Fusing <ul><ul><li>Multiple plies are stacked up (up to 70 mm height) and fused simultaneously </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>High Productivity </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Heat from high frequency energy </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>No shrinkage or color change </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Dielectric heat: plates generate high frequency field, heat effect is distributed uniformly in length ,width and full height between platen </li></ul></ul>
  25. 25. High Frequency Fusing <ul><ul><li>Heating effect is different for different polymers </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Adhesive is heated up faster than fabric or interlining </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Time depend on capacity of High Frequency unit and weight of load to be fused </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>E.g.; 30 Kw unit ; load 5-20 kg :– 1-3 min </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Disadvantage: the press needs to be set for fusing materials on basis of fibre, content, weight thickness and moisture content </li></ul></ul>
  26. 26. High Frequency Fusing
  27. 27. Manufacturers: <ul><ul><li>Shanghai Dahe New Material Technology Co., Ltd </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Rocmachine Co., Ltd. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>  Tianjin Tian-Yin Machinery And Electron Co., Ltd. </li></ul></ul>
  28. 28. Quality Control <ul><ul><li>Temperature Test papers : reacts by changing color. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Pyrometers : high accuracy, rapid response, costly. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Stop watch: High accuracy. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Peel strength Test </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Dry-clean and wash Test. </li></ul></ul>
  29. 29. Control System
  30. 30. Thank you <ul><ul><li>Bibliography: </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>Fusing Technology by Gerry Cooklin </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>www.fusingpressindia.com </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>machine ry.fibre2fashion.com/7/ fusing - machine </li></ul></ul></ul><ul><ul><ul><li>www. apparel ntextile.com/products_ apparel _ interlinings .html </li></ul></ul></ul>
  1. A particular slide catching your eye?

    Clipping is a handy way to collect important slides you want to go back to later.