Single Malt Issue 3


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Single Malt Issue 3

  1. 1. Single malts Issue 3 For isk Enthusiasts the art oF blenDing with richard Patterson Dubai First Whisky Festival 2010 in association with mmi the Dalmore 58 years, selene with fraser jones highland heros with jonathan castle
  2. 2. Exclusively available in all MMI, Spinney’s & OUA retail shops
  4. 4. “At Highland Park we make whisky the traditional way: hand-turning the malt; cutting peat by hand from our own moor; maturing the spirit in our custom-made sherry butts; nurturing it in Orkney’s gentle maritime climate; marrying the whisky in cask to allow it to settle. Our intention is to make the best whisky possible. That can’t be done by cutting corners in the name of efficiency. This philosophy has earned us many plaudits, including Distiller of the Year 2007 *. A lifetime in the making, H I G H L A N D PA R K 4 0 Y E A R O L D is the flagship expression of the most respected single malt whisky in the world.” Russell Anderson, Distillery Manager * San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2007 4 SINGLE MALTS 5 Exclusively available in all MMI, Spinney’s & OUA retail shops SINGLE MALTS
  5. 5. Editor’s Toast Editor’s ToasT W elcome to the third edition of Single Malt Magazine. We’ve been in whisky overdrive since last time out with events in both Dubai and Abu Dhabi. The Whisky Festival at Taste Dubai was a big hit with both experienced tipplers and novices alike - all our master classes packed out. In the capital we hooked up with some single malt fiends for their ‘Guessamalt’ tasting where a great evening was had by all. We’ve gone behind the scenes of The Dalmore’s latest super premium launch, the Selene, and caught up with its creator, Master Blender Richard Paterson, for a quick Q + A. Furthermore, All things Highland are investigated in our main feature including an in depth look at Glenmorangie and the incredible ‘16 Men of Tain’. Dubai Slainte Mhath! Whisky John Gillespie Festival 2010 were forced to lance of supply vs demand they portfolio that pick off those producers from their whiskies. offered the least character to blended malts are a It must be remembered that single now, over relatively new phenomena and even distilleries 90% of Scotch is blended. Lowland were hit particularly hard as their delicate, subtle value to the aromas were considered of little consumers blended market. Only recently have these lost really appreciated what it is that where distilleries had to offer. Likewise, distilling companies had more than one distillery making similar styled malts, difficult decisions rare stocks had to be made. What’s left of these – when its should now be consumed with care gone, its gone! Next Issue • The Lost Lowlands – Single Malt investigates the once thriving Lowlands distilleries • Small in size, not in character - the increasing popularity of farm distilleries • Dram good curry – spicy up your Indian cooking with a shot of the good stuff • Sherry? Yes please. What does granny”s favourite tipple do for your malt? 6 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 7
  6. 6. Contents 38 The Dalmore Selene 58YO Launch 52 hotspots Edinburgh Contents 10 Dubai Whisky Festival 2010 14 What’s New 18 Top 10 20 Inside Highlands 30 Guessamalt, Abu Dhabi 32 Jim Murray Whisky Bible 36 Richard Paterson Q&A 38 Dalmore Selene 58 year old Launch 40 What makes a malt 42 Whisky & Cigar Pairings 44 Highland Heroes with Glenmorangie 48 Nose of the month 52 Hotspots Edinburgh 56 Edinburgh Fringe Festival 60 Scottish Style “The Kilt” 62 20 Events 64 Ask the Expert, with Fraser Jones Highlands 8 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 9 PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY
  7. 7. Dubai Whisky Festival 2010 r’s Taste of Dubai Festival MMI raised the bar at this yea with the ever popular Bev erage Theatre suppor ted for whisky experience and the the first time by a separate s Lounge’. beautifully presented ‘Le Clo out with The Single Mal t tasting sessions were packed r the course of the four day hundreds of par ticipants ove a special chocolate and festival. Gatherings included junction with Chivas and whisky pairing hosted in con to French gourmands, Valr hona. Experts were on hand through the ultra-rare guide a lucky few par ticipants le other sessions included “Closed Distillery” range whi Scotland’s diverse malt Japanese whiskies, a tour of rse St.Patricks day saw a styles and Islay icons. Of cou h! celebration of all whiskies Iris attraction wowing Coo per Dan Meikleman was a star d’s crowds with his dec ades of experience in Scotlan rt of a tale or two, the expert greatest industr y. Never sho okers while showing off the barrel maker entertained onlo timeless craft of the cooper.
  8. 8. WhaT’s NEW? MOrE C , MOrE LOCATIOnS. HOICE, MOrE vALuE ITH MMI… EErfuL W rEASOnS TO BE CH ly working to br ing you more GlENFIDDICh a 40-yEar olD t MM I, we’re constant r value all the tim e. ce and even bette choice, convenien th e opening of ou r ed to announce So we’re delight d in Dubai Festi val CollECTIblE rElEasED nveniently locate new flagship store co of our othe r 10 outlets w store, or any m the largest wi ne City. Visit our ne ck up a bottle fro e Single-malt Scotch distillery Glenfiddich across the city, and pi – there’s alw ays great in-stor olio in the gulf course announced the launch of a limited edition and spirit portf e for less. Plus of ring you get mor ed in this issue 40 Year Old expression. It is the 6th set of promotions ensu gle malts featur fabulous sin Glenfiddich 40 Year Old, and only 600 will be yo u’ll find all the Magazine. presented on the world market at a price of of your Whisky $2,600 per bottle. DubaI lauNChEs ThE MaCallaN pErFECT sErvE Beverage purists argue that ice should never be introduced to a quality scotch whisky. Such thinking rests on the theory that when holding a glass, your body heat will melt the ice, resulting in a diluted spirit and sub-par drinking experience. In order to make a scotch cold without diluting it, Scottish whisky purveyors The Macallan created a clever ice ball maker. The machine creates a ball of ice precisely sized to fit into an average tumbler. The spherical nature slows the melting process making it less susceptible to hand warmth, preserving the liquor while keeping it refreshingly cool. Exclusively available at Address Hotels, Dubai, Emirates Palace Abu Dhabi and Chedi in Oman 14 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 15
  9. 9. What’s New 100-yEar-olD WhyTE & MaCkay uNvEIls ThE alMorE MaCkENzIE WhIsky FouND uNDEr ErNEsT shaCklEToN’s huT lIMITED EDITIoN Scotch whisky distiller Whyte & Mackay last night That’s the spirit! Cases of news has emerged that the crates unveiled The Dalmore Mackenzie limited edition, the Mackinlay’s ‘Rare Old’ scotch of whisky long suspected to have latest line extension of its leading Highland single whisky have been recovered been entombed by ice outside Sir malt, in the spectacular setting of Scotland’s National from the ice outside Shackleton’s Ernest Shackleton’s Antarctic hut Gallery in Edinburgh. Antarctic hut. What will it taste have finally been recovered. Only 3,000 limited edition bottles of the edition are like? The spirits, supplied by the being released, of which 600 will be available in Cases of Mackinlay’s whisky Scottish distillers Whyte and travel retail, principally through specialist whisky found intact under the hut Mackay, were excavated from outlets such as World of Whiskies. The retail price is used by the British Antarctic underneath Shackleton’s Antarctic around £100. Expedition of 1907-1909 (The hut by the New Zealand Antarctic Whyte & Mackay said the launch “marks a new era SS Nimrod expedition), led by Heritage Trust, who are involved in the distillery’s long affiliation with The Mackenzie Sir Ernest Shackleton. Cape in restoration work on the Cape Clan”. The Dalmore Mackenzie launch was inspired Royds, McMurdo side, Antarctica. Royds building, as well as the by the act of courage from an ancestor of Clan Photograph: New Zealand Cape Evans hut later used by Mackenzie when he saved King Alexander III of Antarctic Heritage Trust Captain Robert Scott as his Scotland in 1263 from being gored by a stag, a scene After some hype and anticipation expedition base that is depicted in a famous painting by Benjamin West that hangs in the National Gallery – next to which guests enjoyed dinner last night. EDrINGToN lauNCh park40 hIGhlaND as a 5Cl MINIaTurE IT Is WITh GrEaT plEasurE ThaT WE INTroDuCE our Back in April 2008, launched The 40 Year Old has been NEW MasTEr DIsTIllEr oF Highland Park 40 Year Old, at the largely matured in refill casks, ThE GlENlIvET, time the oldest whisky ever bottled by the distillery. The response was that is to say casks that have previously been used to mature alan Winchester terrific and the critics adored it; whisky; every time a cask is He brings a wealth of technical expertise, experience and love for Highland Park 40 Year Old was used, its ability to impart The Glenlivet to this crucial role. He describes his appointment named World’s Best New Release an influence on the spirit is as, “A huge honour. My main job will be to maintain the tradition at the World Whisky Awards and diminished. When laying down a started by George Smith – a tradition of the highest quality, that Jim Murray described it as “sheer whisky for extended maturation, the industry looks to as a reference point. no other distillery poetry” in his Whisky Bible 2010. we don’t want the cask to combines a unique, pioneering role in the Scotch industry with Now delighted to announce the dominate the spirit; 40 years allows such an enduring reputation for quality release of Highland Park 40 Year time for the perfect balance to Old as a 5cl miniature. be achieved. 16 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 17
  10. 10. Top 10 Where to Find a GooD DraM sCoTlaND’s Top 10 fEATurInG OvEr 20 SInGLE MALTS, InCLuDInG 8 Of TOP 10 In THE WOrLD, AnD A furTHEr 20 olDEsT DIsTIllErIEs MOrE BrAnDS AvAILABLE On rEquEST, THErE’S SOMETHInG fOr EvErYOnE 1 Balblair ........................................................................................1790 2 Blair Athol ...................................................................................1798 Dubai Flagship retail store 3 Bowmore .....................................................................................1779 Le Clos ......................................Tel: 04 220 3583 4 Glenburgie ..................................................................................1810 Al Wasl ....................................Tel: 04 232 5522 5 Glen Garioch ...............................................................................1797 Mall of Emirates .......................Tel: 04 341 0371 6 Glenturret ....................................................................................1775 Ibn Battuta ..............................Tel: 04 368 5626 7 Oban............................................................................................1794 Trade Centre ...........................Tel: 04 352 3091 8 Strathisla......................................................................................1786 Shiekh Zayed Road ..................Tel: 04 321 1223 9 Tobermory...................................................................................1798 10 Highland Park .............................................................................1798 sCoTlaND’s Top 10 NEWEsT DIsTIllErIEs 1 Ailsa Bay .....................................................................................2007 2 Roseisle .......................................................................................2009 3 Abhainn Dearg ............................................................................2008 Dubai Festival City ...................Tel: 04 232 5522 4 Daftmill .......................................................................................2005 Opening Hours for all stores 5 Speyside ......................................................................................1976 11:00am-9pm (Sat-Thurs). Closed Fridays 6 Kininvie .......................................................................................1990 7 Kilchoman ...................................................................................2005 spinney’s Flagship retail stores 8 Glengyle ......................................................................................2004 Spinneys Muroor .....................Tel: 02 641 9366 9 Arran ...........................................................................................1993 Spinneys Khalidiya .................Tel: 02 681 2356 10 Allt-a-Bhainne .............................................................................1975 Spinneys Al Ain .......................Tel: 03 763 6367 Opening Hours for all stores 10:00am-1pm & 4pm – 8.30pm (Sat-Thurs). Closed Fridays oman Flagship retail stores OUA Madinat Qaboos .................Tel: 2460 3892 SCS Azaiba...................................Tel: 2449 5157 OUA Ruwi ..................................Tel: 2470 4031 Opening Hours for all stores 9am-1pm & 5pm-9pm (Sat-Thurs). Closed Fridays Sign up to the Single Malt Society and find out about whiSky eventS and excluSive offerS throughout the uae. for More inforMation log on to our webSite: www.MMidubai.coM 18 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 19
  11. 11. Inside highlands The High roaD frOM nOrTHErn JOHn O’GrOATS TO HELEnSBurGH In THE SOuTH, THE HIGHLAnDS EnCOMPASS SCOTLAnD’S MOST DIvErSE SCEnErY, AnD MOST vArIED WHISkIES a sk almost anyone to picture Scotland and it is a land Geographically, The Highlands as a region is defined as of heatherclad mountains that they will envision. everything north of the Highland Boundary Fault, a line that The Highlands define the very essence of Scotland: runs roughly diagonal across the country from Stonehaven remote, spectacular, hauntingly beautiful, hard to in the North East, through Loch Lomond and out across the reach and even harder to leave. Firth of Clyde, crossing the northern tips of both Arran and Hardly surprising, then, that this vast and complex region Mull in the South West. Thus included are most of Scotland’s is also home to an unparalleled range and diversity of single mountains, including the highest, Ben Nevis, and most of her malts, from the peaty blockbusters of the west, to sweetly islands, including Jura, Skye and the Orkneys. The whisky subtle nectars from the North and East. heartland of Speyside also falls within this region, but it is 20 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 21
  12. 12. Inside highlands USA. Glenturret, at Crieff, is one of the claimants to being the oldest distillery, although it was dismantled in the 1920s and is much changed. Glenturret is a major tourist attraction with more visitors than any other distillery in Scotland. Finally, Tullibardine (mothballed in 1995) is close to Gleneagles, on the site of the first public brewery in Scotland and uses the same source of water. Nearby Deanston, in the village of Doune, occupies a converted cotton-mill, built in 1785 by Richard Arkwright, the inventor over sixty miles from Grantown-on- of the ‘Spinning jenny’. Spey. The original name of the distillery These South Highlands malts are was ‘Strathspey’. Its style certainly leans lighter-bodied and sweeter that their towards Speyside in character. cousins to the east, but not as sweet Further down the A9 you’ll find Blair as Speysides. Like Speysides, they are Athol Distillery near the town of the fragrant - blossom, violets, elderflowers, same name, and Edradour Distillery heather, mint, spice, and pear notes are all just down the road in Pitlochry. Blair found in the nose - but they tend to have Athol - founded in the 1790s and one of a dry finish like other Highland malts, Scotland’s oldest - and was substantially and unlike Speysides. rebuilt in 1949. Edradour is the smallest As the largest recognised region in distillery in Scotland, run by only two Scottish whisky nomenclature, it is no people and producing only 12 barrels a surprise that its distilleries have a number week. Though tiny, the whisky produced of claims to fame – the oldest, most is clean, fresh, attractive and justly northerly, the highest, the world’s best popular. The floral, minty, sweet-to-start / selling, the smallest and so on. In fact, dry-to-finish flavour of these whiskies are they are a fascinating reflection of the typical of the region. sheer beauty, scale and diversity of the South again is Aberfeldy Distillery on region they occupy and the whiskies the edge of the pretty town of the same originating there capture all of that name. It was built by Dewar’s in 1898, diversity in their range of flavours and counted as a subset of the Highlands the points of the compass, giving us wood maturation, though the sherry- whiskies, generally malty, slightly and is still the ‘heart malt’ of their blend - nuances. In many ways, ‘Highland’ is the and accorded a separate classification Northern, Eastern, Western and Southern finishing technique developed in the new sweet, smooth, smoky and with the most popular Scotch in the proudest name a whisky can bear. of its own, as is the south western island Highlands. In reality, there is a fifth part Glenmorangie range suits them well. a surprisingly dry finish. South of of Islay. which is the Islands, and though these are Over in the West Highlands it’s a Aberdeen you’ll find Royal Lochnagar As a result, distilleries given the lumped with the Highlands for political different story, partly due to geography, and Glencadam - these tend to be distinction of calling their output and administrative reasons, as a group the partly climate. There are five distilleries richer, more toffee-like, with citrus ‘Highland’ single malt are as disparate as distilleries have their own character and recognized officially as West Highlands, notes, but still a whiff of smoke the land they inhabit – distilleries with identity. Island and Islay distillers were three on islands and two on the mainland. and the dry finish. Further south is their toes in the Atlantic and the North featured in Single Malt Issue two. The island distilleries are Jura (Isle of Fettercairn in the rich red farmland sea, in rolling arable pastures and high The Northern Highlands is an area Jura), Ledaig/Tobermory (Isle of Mull) of the Meams, an underestimated mountain passes, the most northerly of low-lying arable countryside and its and Talisker (Isle of Skye). The mainland malt with a fruity/fudge-like nose Scotch Whisky distillery (Highland distilleries almost all enjoy a coastal distilleries are Oban (in Oban itself, just and a spicy finish. Glencadam is the Park), and almost the most southerly setting. The exception is Clynelish, which off the high street) and Ben Nevis in last remaining distillery at Brechin (Glengoyne). In fact, Glengoyne distillery sits slightly inland at the foot of the hills the town of Fort William. If they share and produces an unusual, creamy, sits astride the fault, and though the behind Brora, at the heart of what used to a characteristic it is a typical smoky/ fruity malt strongly reminiscent of whisky is matured on the Lowland side, be a model Highland estate. These North pepperiness, though nothing like as tangerines. it is actually produced in the Highlands. Highland malts tend to be light bodied, strong as Islay malts and very much Further south, you encounter what Loch Lomond distillery is similarly delicate whiskies with complex aromas depending upon age. used to be known as the ‘Perthshire schizophrenic, though it draws its water and a dryish finish - sometimes spicy, Over in the East Highlands are the Whiskies’. Most are found along the from the Highlands side of the fault and sometimes with a trace of salt. Some malts from distilleries north of the city valleys of the Tay and its tributaries, so bestows the Highland name on are slightly peaty (Clynelish, Balblair); of Aberdeen – Macduff, home to the the Tummel and the Earn. The most its whiskies. in others the smoke is more prominent Glen Deveron malt, Knockdhu, Ardmore, northerly of these is Dalwhinnie, In whisky terms, the region is divided (Pulteney, Teaninich, Dalmore). Northern Glendronach and Glengarrioch. They which qualifies as a Speyside, although officially into four parts, named after malts don’t usually undergo much sherry- tend to produce more medium-bodied it is at the very head of the river, 22 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 23
  13. 13. Inside highlands a-z abErFElDy The Aberfeldy Distillery was established in 1898 by the sons of John Dewar, one expression of a ‘Perthshire Malt’. of the first men to produce blended whisky and who’s name to this day EDraDour crowns one of the largest whisky The smallest distillery in Scotland, companies in the world. Still a working Edradour is the last surviving farm distillery, it is home to the Dewar’s distillery in Perthshire. Established in World of Whisky visitor centre and open 1825, it is virtually unchanged and still for tours. uses the original equipment installed when it was started. Just three men balblaIr produce a total of 12 barrels of whisky Founded in 1790, Balblair Distillery a week of a very highly regarded is the second oldest working whisky Highland malt. distillery in Scotland. Situated at Edderton, in one of the most beautiful GlENCaDaM parts of the country, where the Ross- Established by George Cooper near shire burns flow down Struie Hill to the the Royal Burgh of Brechin in 1825, rich farmlands below and onwards to Glencadam is a little-known but the shores of the Dornoch Firth. productive Eastern Highland distillery. The air in Edderton is considered to Almost all of the production goes into be the purest in Scotland, and it is said Ballantine’s blends. that this contributes to Balblair’s mooth, light, delicate and refreshing taste. GlENGarIoCh Possibly Scotland’s oldest distillery, bEN NEvIs Glengarrioch was officially established The Ben Nevis Distillery is one of the in 1797 in the Garrioch valley, oldest licensed distilleries in Scotland. traditionally the finest barley growing It was established in 1825 by Long John area in Scotland. It is a small distillery McDonald, a 6ft 4in descendant of a and not normally open to visitors, but ruler of the western Scottish kingdom produces one of the most highly rated of Argyll. In 1989 the distillery was sold Highland malts. by Whitbread to Mitsui, partner of the Japanese whiskymakers Nikka, and the GlENGoyNE focus today is on quality, not volume. Established in 1833 just 12 miles north A Highland of Glasgow, Glengoyne is the most blaIr aThol southerly of the ‘Highland’ distilleries, Blair Athol distillery was founded in and actually sits astride the Highland 1798, but closed again soon after. It Boundary Fault. Whilst much of its remained closed until 1825, when it was production used to go for blending, reopened by John Robertson and a long an increasing proportion is now being GazETTEEr line of different owners then followed enjoyed as a single malt. throughout the years. Only 5% of production is sold as single malt - Blair GlENMoraNGIE Athol is a main contributor to the Bell’s Established in 1843 at Tain, overlooking whisky blend. the Dornoch Firth, the distillery actually THE A – Z Of EvErY HIGHLAnD DISTILLErY CurrEnTLY began production using a pair of very brora WOrkInG (AnD OnE THAT’S nOT) tall, second-hand gin stills. The shape of Not currently working, Brora has a those original stills played a significant fascinating history. Originally called role in the quality and refinement of the Clynelish, it was established in 1819. Dalmore 62 year old is currently the through the Highlands. whisky and to this day Glenmorangie Then the new (and current) Clynelish ClyNElIsh DalMorE world’s most expensive whisky. operates the tallest stills in Scotland. distillery was built over the road and The ‘new’ Clynelish distillery went into Dalmore Distillery was established in DEaNsToN the old one closed down in 1969. production in 1968, replacing the old 1839 by Alexander Matheson, and sits DalWhINNIE A relatively recent introduction, the GlEN orD However, it was re-opened in 1975 and one which had originally been part of on the shores of the Cromarty Firth Originally named the Strathspey Distillery, Deanston Distillery was built in 1965 The last remaining distillery on the produced the Brora single malt before a ‘model’ Highland estate. The current across the water from the Black Isle. It the current Dalwhinnie sits at the head of within the shell of a much older Black Isle, an area noted for the quality closing in 1983. Brora is a much peatier output is a highly regarded single malt draws its water from the Alness river. the river Spey in the village of the same cotton mill which dates back to 1785. of its barley, Glen Ord’s production is whisky than the new Clynelish, and was much appreciated by blenders, and The “twelve pointer stag” which adorns name high in the Cairngorm mountains. Produced from an unpeated malt, mostly used for blending but a limited known as the ‘Lagavulin of the North’. forms the backbone of the Johnnie every bottle of Dalmore was introduced Its traditional pagoda roofs are a famous Deanston whisky is delightfully easy to quantity can now be found bottled as a Intriguingly, the stills are still there… Walker Gold Label blend. from the Mackenzie clan crest, and sight from the nearby A9 main route drink, and regarded as the perfect single malt. 24 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 25
  14. 14. Inside highlands a-z GlENTurrET Officially founded in 1775, making it the oldest recognised distillery in Scotland, though illicit distilling took place in the same location for many years earlier. Home of ‘The Famous Grouse Experience’, Glenturret is the most visited distillery in Scotland. loCh loMoND The distillery was converted from a dyeing factory in the mid 1960s and is located very close to Loch Lomond. It actually sits on the Highland/Lowland line but as its water source is above the Highland line its production is considered as being of Highland origin. Loch Lomond can produce a number of different whiskies thanks to the unusual design of its stills. obaN Established in 1794 by the three Stevenson brothers who also founded the town of Oban itself. Though most of its output goes for blending, what little of the typically West Highland malt does escape as a single malt, is very highly regarded by connoisseurs. FETTErCaIrN Possibly the second oldest licensed distillery in Scotland, established in 1824 and extended and rebuilt since. Primarily used for blending, a small amount is now released as a single malt. olD pulTNEy Established in 1826 in Wick, Pulteney Distillery is the most northerly distillery on the Scottish mainland and was originally only accessible by sea. The barley was brought in by sea, the whisky shipped out the same way and many of the distillery workers were also employed as fishermen. One of the finest Highland malts available. royal loChNaGar captain Hugh Munro in 1817, though TullIbarDINE The Lochnagar distillery was established he later he rented it out. Teaninich is The Tullibardine Whisky distillery was by John Begg in 1845 near the village famous because it was the first distillery opened in 1949 on the site of a former of Crathie, close to Balmoral, the Royal to have electricity. In 1971 a new still brewery. It was opened by William family’s Scottish country home. The house, called “Side A” with six stills, Delme-Evans, architect of the Jura and distillery was given its “Royal” status in was built, replacing the old stills that Glenallachie distilleries. In 2003, it was 1848 following a visit from the Queen’s were later mothballed. The first official purchased by a business consortium husband Prince Albert. bottlings of Teaninich single malt only and is now the thriving heart of a retail became available in 1992, and most of complex and tourist attraction. TEaNINICh the malt produced is still used in blends The Teaninich distillery was built by such as Johnnie Walker. 26 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 27
  15. 15. Inside highlands in Numbers Highlands in NuMbErs 1% The proportion of Teaninich’s output 1775 The date when Glenturret distillery was 12 in 1263 an ancestor of future Dalmore 3 Men operate Scotland’s smallest 58,000 90 released as a single malt. established, making it Scotland’s oldest. owners Clan Mackenzie, saved King distillery in the stunning Perthshire In an English hotel one night in 2005 Copper pipes stretching 90 meters Alexander III from being gored by a countryside. Edradour produces only a gentleman bought The Dalmore’s condense the evaporated spirit from 12 Total output in barrels per week from 1724 The date when Glen Garioch may have stag while he was hunting. The grateful King granted him the right to bear a 12 pointed or ‘Royal’ stag’s head 12 casks of whisky a week making it a rare pleasure for only the fortunate few… 62 Year old malt for US$ 58,000. He indulgently downed it the same night with five of his friends. the still house at the mainland’s northernmost distillery, Pulteney. Edradour, Scotland’s smallest distillery. been established, under an earlier name. on his coat of arms. The same stag’s head today adorns all bottles from the 26 2 1833 32,000 The price in pounds sterling paid for a 1887 Highland distiller. At a height of over 26 feet, Glenmorangie’s stills are the tallest in The number of distilleries that were at one point named Clyenlish. The The year in which Burnfoot distillery was established by George Connell. It is better known today as Glengoyne. single bottle of Dalmore 62. The year when Alfred Barnard wrote Scotland and are based on the original Scottish Whisky Association later that Teanininh was lit by electricity. former gin stills as installed in 1843. demanded one of the names be changed and Brora distillery was born. 28 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 29
  16. 16. Guessamalt, abu Dhabi GuEssaMalT s ingle Malts Magazine has been in the capital this month to join a group of whisky aficionados at their ‘Guessamalt’ tasting dinner. Stanley Hartmann and Sonny Jonathans started the club in 2005 and since then have brought together scores of enthusiastic tipplers to their single malt events. The aim of the evening is somewhat given away by it’s name. Attendees are requested to bring a bottle of their favourite malt, all of which are then listed with tasting notes written by trade professionals. Throughout the course of the meal, this time hosted at the beautiful Mombasa Grille, Souq Qaryat Al Beri, drinkers are then invited to blind sample all the whiskies while trying to decipher which one they are. Prizes are given for most correct matches and also for the one who brought the malt receiving the highest average score of the evening – this time the people’s choice was the Macallan 12 Year Old Fine Oak. A thoroughly enjoyable evening was rounded off with the Macallan 25 Old Fine Oak, served over a perfect sphere of ice courtesy of The Macllan iceball machine. If you’d like to get involved with the next Guessamalt evening, contact Stan on: T: 050 591 3454 E: 30 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 31
  17. 17. Jim Murray Whisky bible Jim Murray I f Jim Murray had followed his chosen path at the age of 13, things might have been very different in the whisky industry today. Murray claims that “at this age I had no intention in being a whisky writer, neither did I aspire to be a journalist, broadcaster, Prime Minister or racing driver. There was only one thing I wanted to be - a professional cricketer. But it was not to be’. A loss for the world of cricket – a gain for the world of whisky as Jim Murray is now arguably one of the industry most influential leading voices. In addition to his writing and broadcasting on the subject, Murray has also worked as a consultant blender for whisky and rum, as well as using his influence to resurrect the closed distillery of Ardbeg. Murray is Jim Murray’s famously fanatical about guarding the integrity and honesty of his writing and has been vocal about how writing for media dependant on advertising can lead to the compromise of these values. To this end he now very selective about the WorlD WhIsky aWarDs 2010 articles he contributes and always insists on retaining full copyright on the writing he submits. Single Malt Scotch As a young man from Merstham, Surrey, Jim Murray’s no Age Statement (Multiple cask) – Ardbeg Supernova interests lay closer to sport, which he followed avidly and no Age Statement (runner up) – Glenmorangie Sonnalta PX which he combined with his passion for journalism. This 10 Years and under (Multiple cask) – Octomore 5 Years Old blending of passions was to lead to the publication of his 10 Years and under (Single cask) – SMWS 77.17 (Glen Ord) first book: Lions of the South (1988), a history of Murray’s 11-15 Years Old (Multiple cask) – Tomintoul 14 Years Old beloved and unfashionable Millwall F.C. Murray would go on 11-15 Years Old (Single cask) – Isle of Arran Sherry 353 to pursue a career in journalism, spending over 13 years on 16-21 Years Old (Multiple cask) – Glen Grant 1992* Fleet Street working on British tabloid papers The Sunday 16-21 Years Old (Single cask) – Glendronach 1992 Cask 401 22-27 Years Old (Multiple cask) – Brora 25 Years Old 7th* 22-27 Years Old (Single cask) – Cadenhead’s Benriach 23YO 28-34 Years Old (Multiple cask) – Highland Park 30 Years Old 28-34 Years Old (Single cask) – Douglas Laing Glencadem 32YO 35-40 Years Old (Multiple cask) – Glenglassaugh 40 Years Old 35-40 Years Old (Single cask) – Whisky fair Glen Grant 36 YO 41 Years and Over (Multiple cask) – Glenfiddich 50 Years Old 41 Years and Over (Single cask) – Glenfarclas 1962 release III People and Daily Star. He left in 1992 to write about whisky full-time, having already amassed considerable notes on whiskies from distilleries visited whilst on various press secondments. “I was trying to write about it [whisky] in the early 80s – but most magazines and newspapers just didn’t want to know...there was no one else doing it and if anyone was doing it, it was being done by wine writers. Some of what they were writing was just a joke, but there was nothing you could do about it.” Murray claims to have fallen in love with whisky whilst in the States during 1974 at the age of 16. He tasted lots of Rye whiskies and bourbons in Maryland, 32 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 33
  18. 18. Jim Murray Whisky bible have you got a nose like Jim Murray? next time you have a dram see how many of these aromas and flavours Source: The Scotch Whisky you can identify in your single malt. research Institute’s flavour Wheel and this first flush was confirmed as a lasting love a year later be tough work on the nose and palate. Murray attributes when he went hitchhiking round Scotland, further educating the fact that he has never even held a dry cigarette to his and feeding his palate and stumbling across the Talisker mouth, let alone smoked, as one of the major factors behind distillery,. being able to maintain his precious organoleptic abilities. In 1994 Murray released his Irish Whisky almanac which Such is his distaste for cigarettes that he regularly turns was the first of a series of publications which would help down the large amounts of money he is offered to his to to secure his place as a leading voice of authority within put his name against cigarette advertising. With regards both the domestic and global whisky trade. 2003 saw the to technique, he goes on to explain: “If I’m nosing and I beginning of what has become an ongoing project in the form don’t feel that I’m getting what I should get, then I stop....I of the Jim Murray Whisky Bible, which documents Murray’s simply don’t nose...but when my nose is on form, which is tasting notes for every single whisky he is able to acquire most days, I can go on for some considerable time. It tires throughout the year. Murray’s scoring system works on a you out after several hours, but by that time, you’ve got a 100 point structure, focusing on four different areas of nose, lot of work done.” However he does say that the addition taste, finish and balance. His approach focuses primarily on of caramel to whiskies can reduce the number of samples what is wrong with the whisky he’s tasting, stripping points that he can get through in a day, as can sulphur. On a good away as he goes along. He looks at the age, what he would run he can get through 30-40 whiskies and although any expect from it and most importantly balance. He will also serious professional will need to spit in order to get their look at the distillery and take into consideration how certain work done, he does admit that at the end of the day, he whiskies from certain distilleries have performed over the may succumb to having a nip of something: “Sometimes you years and will mark them up or down according their overall do get one [whisky] which is sent down from the heavens consistency of quality. and is plonked in front of you and there’s rays of sunlight It is estimated that Murray tastes anything between two coming from it and you think, ok, I’ve spat it out once, but and half to three thousand whiskies a year, which can I’m damned if I’m going to spit it out again.” 34 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 35
  19. 19. richard paterson Q & a ThE rICharD paTErsoN INTErvIEW “If YOu DrInk THE WHISkY TOO quICkLY, HE’LL SLAP YOu. AnD If HE SEES YOu HOLDInG A WHISkY TASTInG GLASS THE WrOnG WAY, HE’LL kILL YOu.” W ith this warning in mind, Single Malts Magazine not only to the whisky but to the whole distillery. Now you caught up with Whyte and Mackay’s Master have one manager overseeing a few distilleries, but we’re all Blender, Richard Paterson. He’s worked with in the same boat, we’ve got to be competitive. For the loss the company since 1970 and is now considered of individuality, the quality of output has never been better, the one of the foremost voices in the world of whisky. compared to when I started out, we’re streets ahead in terms of quality. I judge at the International Wine and SM: Is there any specific way a novice can train to be a better Spirit Competition in London and without any compromise noser and taster or is it a natural skill only a few posses? in our standards we now give considerably more silver and RP: Becoming a Master Blender is a life’s work. You’ve got to gold medals. have 100% commitment and 120% passion for what you’re doing. Training takes many many years. You’ve got to be nosing We’re putting spirit into cask now for a global population samples at every stage of production whether it be malted barley to drink in 10 to 12 years. How do you gauge what future or grain whiskies. Only by knowing every individual facet can demand will be and what’s the general mood in the you really learn how to harmonise it all together. You’ve got to whisky industry? know the wood as well as well as you know the spirit and then We’re quietly confident just now and most distilleries are pair the quality of the two together. Through time you begin operating at a good level. A lot rests on the BRIC countries to develop an understanding of what works and what doesn’t; [Brazil, Russia, India and China]. We’re always trying to for The Dalmore we’ve used 30 different types of sherry casks second guess what will happen decades down the line but before settling on Matusalem as the absolute finest fit to our all the indicators point to these countries as having a big spirit, that takes time and experience. say in the future condition of the whisky industry. With the expansion of the middle classes and the more expansive So it’s about finding the perfect partner for each tastes that go with that we’d expect to see a decent export individual spirit? shift in their direction. The biggest concern for distilleries Each of our distilleries produces a different spirit [Whyte and just now is about casks and are there going to be enough. If Mackay oversee The Dalmore, Isle of Jura and Fettercairn]. My production keeps increasing we’ll need more casks and more job is to dress the spirit, to bring out the best qualities that are warehouse space – neither are cheap and decent sherry casks already in there. I’m clothing it like you’d clothe a woman; only are becoming harder to come by in light of fewer people the best casks will bring out the best qualities. Where you can drinking it. make a woman beautiful by dressing her in the right clothes, you can overdo it, like if you dress her in a mink coat. It’s What tip would you give to help drinkers bring out and about balance. There’s never a guarantee it’ll work out how you appreciate flavours in your whiskies? expected and you’ve got to be prepared to wait. The Mackenzie Whisky loves to be drunk in context. Dark chocolate, cigars [a recent premium release from The Dalmore] was in port casks and coffee all release different nuances of a complex whisky. for seven years, that’s a long time, but it worked. Whisky and cigar pairing is a real art and one that enhances the enjoyment of both. We’ve just released The Dalmore King How do malts differ when there is a personnel change at Alexander III which is a marriage of six differently aged malts the distillery – is there as much individual input to the all hailing from uniquely seasoned casks [French wine, Port, production process as when you started in the industry? Sherry, Madeira, Marsala and bourbon barrels from Kentucky]. We’re definitely going through a period of rationalisation Everyone who drinks it loves it and appreciates its quality, but just now and that has meant that some of the characters not many can pick out all the brilliant aromas from its varied associated with distilleries aren’t there any more. That’s a real maturation. When you start pairing it with chocolates and shame because each manager brought their own character cigars, it becomes much easier. 36 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 37
  20. 20. Dalmore selene 58 year old launch DalMorE’s CurrENT raNGE The launch of the dalMore 12-year-old Bottled after 12 years instead of the industry’s usual 10, the 12 is Dalmore’s most youthful product. This whisky is matured in 50 per cent American white ThE 58 yo oak and 50 per cent Oloroso Sherry casks in order to develop its unique character. Its colour is a deep gold mahogany, while its aroma is firm, positive and elegant - citrus sElENE fruits and crushed almond, with a subtle hint of marzipan and chocolate. Its taste on the palate is intense, but the warmth of the tongue helps release the special attributes of citrus, sherry and exotic spices. The long, lingering aftertaste is the key to this spirit. T the dalMore 15-year-old he Dalmore recently a certificate of authenticity, which The Dalmore 15YO is the distillery’s flagship released their highly has been signed by The Dalmore’s expression, which delivers the perfect anticipated Selene, a Master Distiller and currently retails balance between spirit, wood and maturity. striking 58-year-old at US$18,000. Crafted from wood infused with three rare vintage, which has been drawn According to Paterson, the aroma sherries from Gonzalez-Byass, Apostoles, from two antique casks numbered of Selene combines lime, mandarin Amoroso and Matusalem, this whisky is 1781 and 1782. Both of these casks and grapefruit, with hints of rich, deep and golden mahogany in colour. were filled on 7th June 1951 and bergamot laced with thick plumy Its aroma is intense and firm, while its taste were left to age in the darkness treacle, aged Matusalem sherry, is described as having a good attack on the of The Dalmore’s ginger and spice. mouth, in an elegant way. warehouse until Hold the spirit on the Richard Paterson, “The aroma tongue and it tastes “a combination of sublime the dalMore 18-year-old Master Distiller from of selene like tangy thick cut casks that have been In 2009, The Dalmore launched a new 18-year-old expression for the first time in matured to perfection Whyte and Mackay marmalade, roasted and director of combines coffee beans, spiced its history. This whisky was first matured The Scotch Whisky lime, ground cinnamon make up The Dalmore’s in American white oak, and then moved to Experience, decided that it was time mandarin and and chocolate cake. This is complemented king alexander, a whisky Matusalem sherry butts for its final years of maturation. It has been described as a to combine their grapefruit, by marinated plums, that has been crafted n ‘galaxy of handmade chocolates’ and as aromas, finishes and with hints apricots and mangos commemoration of the having tasted of vanilla, Columbian coffee, flavours. of bergamot soaked in Port wine Mackenzie Clan founder’s truffles and rosemary, with subtle hints of parma violets and jasmine. laced with Named after the and dark muscovado Titan goddess of the sugar. heroic act in saving king thick plumy alexander III in 1263.” moon, only thirty The Dalmore gran reServa decanters of the treacle, aged distillery was built in The Dalmore’s Gran reserva was matured Selene have been produced. Made Matusalem 1839 by Alexander Matheson in Alness, and married in 60 per cent Sherry Wood and 40 per cent American White Oak, and out of the finest sherry, ginger Scotland and is winning collection, is matured in wooden casks, is typically crafted from casks ranging in Portuguese mouth and spice.” currently owned and which contributes to the flavour of each malt, age from 10 to 15 years. It is deep, golden blown crystal, each operated by Whyte along with the climate and years. Aimed at the mahogany in colour and has a strong, malty decanter has been and Mackay Ltd. The mainstream and high-class markets, ‘The 50’ is flavour that tantalises the tongue. crafted and enhanced with patient Dalmore follows a very distinctive the oldest and most expensive whisky sold by hand crafting, showing the care distillation process, which means The Dalmore, of which only 242 were produced. king alexander and dedication that has gone into no two batches are ever exactly the In 2005, a bottle of 62-year-old Dalmore was A combination of sublime casks that have its creation. These decanters are same, meaning that each measure of sold for a record breaking £32,000. Only 12 been matured to perfection make up The then encased in solid steel boxes, its product is unique. bottles were produced of the blend, which was Dalmore’s king Alexander, a whisky that inlaid with sensuous leather. The Dalmore Single Highland Malt a mix of five casks: 1868, 1878, 1922, 1926 and has been crafted in commemoration of Selene package is presented with Whiskey, the distillery’s award- 1939. the Mackenzie Clan founder’s heroic act in saving king Alexander III in 1263. 38 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 39