Single Malt Issue 2

Single malts Issue 2 For isk Enthusiasts thE maCaLLan in LaLiQuE beHind tHe scenes of tHe macallan 57 yeaR launcH From Citrus to LiQuoriCE with Dwayne cheer RobeRt buRns Homecoming 250 yeaR anniveRsaRy mEssagE in thE bottLE the evolution of Bottle Design investing in wHisky witH fRaseR jones

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY 2 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 1

* San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2007 2 SINGLE MALTS 3 Exclusively available in all MMI, Spinney’s & OUA retail shops SINGLE MALTS

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Editor’s toast Editor’s toast W elcome to the second edition of Single Malt. I hope you enjoyed the festive period. Our whisky trail continues as we journey to the famous regions of Islay and its neighboring islands to explore some of the finest distilleries in the world. The legendary Robert Hicks, Master Blender of Laphroaig, joins us for a dram on his whistle stop tour of the Middle East. Felix Hartmann is back with his malt and cigar picks. We go behind the scenes for an exclusive look at the Macallan in Lalique and Glenfiddich 50 Year Old releases. I’m also pleased to announce Fraser Jones, whisky evangelist, has joined the team, welcome! So sit back pour yourself a wee dram and enjoy. Isle of Jura Pro le Slainte Mhath! John Gillespie A uthor of ‘1984’, George Orwell once famously described Jura as highly un-get-at-able, the very quality which attracted him in the rst place, and the reason he chose the island for a retreat in which to write his most famous novel. Today, the island is still dif cult to reach for those in a hurry, as it has no airport, and travelers must rely on the traditional ferry. But once the journey has been completed, Jura rewards its Get a Taste for visitors with a wonderful welcome and a relaxing pace of life. Today the population is a scant 200, but in the past it was many times that. Archaeological nds suggests ISLAND LIFE that the island was inhabited caption as early as Mesolithic caption caption caption caption times (8,000BC), and there caption caption are signi cant historic caption caption remains from then, through Neolithic, Bronze and Iron WITH A RED DEER POPULATION THAT OUTNUMBERS HUMANS 10 TO 1, THE ISLAND OF JURA HAS A CHARACTER AS UNIQUE AS ITS WHISKY. ages showing continuity of habitation ever since. It was few. North Carolina became the History records that other Diurachs are known to have shipped away during the famine era only in much more recent primary home of ‘Diurachs’ in one Laird Archibald between 1830 and 1840. times, in the 14th and 15th centuries were forcibly removed to the Borders North Carolina, Georgia and Virginia America between the years 1739- Campbell built the Many more sons of Jura were distillery in the that population began to decline. area of Scotland, a common ruse in America and eastern Canada. Their 55 and there are more descendants lost in the two World Wars, the It began with the fall of the ruling of the Scottish Crown. This lasted reasons would have been no different of islanders in that State, than island contributing many soldiers to ‘Lords of the Isles’, coupled with what through the 1600s, but in the 1700s than modern expats - better weather, anywhere else in the world - North early 1800s near a such great regiments as the Argyll we now know was a period of poor it was the sound of opportunity that better land, better pay, and better and Carolina census statistics note that cave where illegal & Sutherland Highlanders, and in distilling had been climate conditions. Jura was hit by islanders heard as stories of plenty cheaper food. The opportunity to own over 2 million people in that state the immediate post-war years saw political, climatic and agricultural to be found in North America began their own land would have been an alone claim Scottish descent. further decline. Today, however, turmoil. Many islanders moved north to arrive. Highland historian James unbearable pull as well, particularly An emigrant ship departed carried on possibly things are better and the full-time with the MacDonalds as they were pushed out by the Campbells, or Hunter wrote about the “Dance Called America”. Islanders emigrated to in a culture where landownership was beyond the means of all but a very in 1775 during the American Revolution bound for Canada and from the 1600s. resident population of the island is around 185. 44 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 45 The Cadboll Stone Glenmorangie next issue • We explore the vast region of the Highlands • Master Blender Richard Paterson join us to share his trade secrets • We go behind the scenes for the launch of Dalmore’s 58 Year Old Selene • How whisky took over the world 6 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 7

Contents 24 Big Little Island 54 Glenfiddich 50 years launch Contents 10 Message in the bottle 14 The Macallan in Lalique 57 years launch 18 What’s New 22 Top 10 24 Big Little Island 32 Investing in Whisky 34 Hotspots of Dubai & Abu Dhabi 36 Japanese Insight 38 Robert Burns homecoming 250 years 40 Lord of the Isles 46 Island Life profile of Jura 50 Whisky & Cigars 52 Events 54 Every year counts Glenfiddich 50 years launch 58 A moment with the master Robert Hicks 62 32 Nose of the month 64 From Citrus to Liquorice 66 Out of the woods, Glenfiddich Barrel Art Investing in Whisky 72 Cocktail recipes 74 Ask the expert 8 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 9

message in the bottle from the mid to late 20th century were machine-made with external screw threads, a practice now spreading widely in the wine industry too. Bottle maker catalogues of the early 20th century also offered many other variations of this same general shape (tall, relatively narrow cylinder with a bulging neck and two-part mineral type finish) attesting to its continued popularity. The style names of some variations give us a fascinating glimpse into the state of the liquor industry at the time – some of the names include ‘Belle of Anderson’, ‘The Primrose Whiskey’, ‘Scotch Whisky’, ‘Sweet Wines’, ‘Black Wines’, ‘Pittsburgh Brandy’, ‘Tall Bulb Neck Brandy’, ‘English Rum’, ‘Crown Prince’, ‘Irish Whisky’, and others. After the 1870s, black glass bottles largely disappeared and lighter greens, olive greens, shades of amber and colourless glass began to dominate. Tall, moderately slender bodied, straight neck early ‘Patent’ style spirits cylinders (mid-19th century): During the 1850s the bulged neck, cylinder bottle evolved closer to a general shape that continues in popularity to this day, albeit with different finishes and manufacturing methods. This style is represented by a bottle which has a neck of similar (moderate) length as the earlier style, but which is straight sided instead of bulging. The straight sided neck usually has a bit of a taper inwards from the base of the neck upwards to the base of the finish. The body length is “many ‘single malt’ Message in the typical of the bulged neck cylinder above, scotch bottles use in that it is relatively tall and moderately t this bottle shape slender. he period from the third quarter of the 19th century to the first and design, but these changes have had and still have cork squat Cylinder sealed mineral spirits bottles (Later): bottLE quarter of the 20th century little impact on the physical features was a time of turmoil within found on most bottles today, with the Another fairly popular shape for spirits the bottle making industry. Up until the exception that more modern bottles type finishes” bottles was called a ‘squat brandy’ in mid-19th century, bottle and glass making tend to be made of thinner glass than some glassmakers catalogues, though it followed virtually the same craft-based earlier machine-made bottles. non-cylindrical shaped bottles began to was likely used for an array of different processes that had been used for many be superseded around 1730 for various liquor types including brandy in Europe, centuries. Bottles made in Scotland the squat spirits/utility reasons, the main ones being that the and bourbon and rye whiskey in the 1630s (or even the 1030s for that matter) THeRe aRe aLMOST aS ManY TYPeS Of WHISkY BOTTLe aS Cylinder bottles (Earlier): cylinder shape was better for storing Americas. This shape is defined by having were made in a virtually identical fashion THeRe aRe MaLTS TO fILL THeM. SInGLe MaLT InveSTIGaTeS. The earliest liquor bottles made tended and stacking, and the increasing use of relatively wide, but short squat body with to many bottles made in the 1830s, with to have a wide, moderate height body, the ‘dip mould’ for forming hand-blown a neck that is relatively long and usually some stylistic shape difference due to applied finishes. physical features - including the and a moderate length neck. Compared bottles. Dip-type moulds could not be straight-sided, though sometimes bulged, regional variations and methods. Everything changed in the years 1905- location of mould seams - as a 330ml, to the next few cylinder liquor bottle used for the earlier shapes. with a brandy or straight brandy finish. Most were dumpy; teardrop shapes 1910, when the widespread licensing of crown finish, micro-brew beer bottle types, these would be called ‘squat’ This general cylindrical shape Some earlier examples have been noted commonly called a ‘Belgian squat’ and the Owens Automatic Bottle Machine produced today. The same is true of in form. Interestingly, this basic and continued to be used for liquor bottles with a mineral finish. This shape seems to were similar to bottles blown in Europe began. As automation came to dominate all types of bottles, although styles historic shape of early bottles is very throughout the 20th century and is have evolved from the early 19th century several hundred years earlier or in ancient the bottle making industry, change grew (shapes) have changed somewhat over often reflected in the top of a whisky still used for many spirits today; many squat bottles first mentioned, possibly Rome two thousand years ago. Almost more limited. For example, an early beer that time depending on the use of the still. These bottles were most commonly ‘single malt’ scotch bottles use this bottle appearing in the 1860s and surely by the all bottles were produced with identical bottle produced then shares virtually bottle. Undoubtedly, there have been olive green, olive amber, and black shape and still have cork sealed mineral 1870s, though its popularity was mostly in methods - free-blown, pontil scarred, with the same manufacturing-induced major advances in machine efficiency glass in colour. These earlier round but type finishes. Other cylindrical bottles the early 20th century. 10 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 11

message in the bottle Case gin bottles: century, the ‘case gin’ shape above besides. The art of the bottle is today Some of the earliest liquor bottles were evolved (but of course did not disappear) almost as important as the art within. square in cross section and generally into vertically straight sided multi-purpose Take your time to look along the gantry designed to contain gin though bottles. Square bottles were of course of your preferred whisky bar, or even undoubtedly contained various types of used for a wide assortment of different simply explore the darker recesses of liquor and possibly wine. Commonly products and came in an array of different your own drinks cabinet. Even here you’ll called ‘case gin’ or ‘taper gin’ bottles, these sizes and shape variations, though all find the glassmakers skill in much of its would pack more efficiently to a case (6 share the feature that they have four infinite variety. to 24 bottles) than round bottles. Case equal sides to the body, little difference Consider the visual appeal, the design gin bottles are square with a more or less in diameter from shoulder to heel, with of the label and decoration, the colour distinct taper inwards from the shoulder the corners (where the flat sides meet) of the glass (whether tinted or clear), to the base. The neck is very short to usually bevelled. Case gin styles are the colour of the whisky within, the almost non-existent with the finishes making something of a revival in the weight and heft of the bottle in your varying from a laid-on ring, flared, premium gin sector – think Sapphire and hand, the ease with which it pours and mineral finish, oil, and even a blob. This Gordons’ 10, for example. the pleasure it is to hold – all of these shape and style of bottle originated in and elements contribute to the satisfaction was commonly made in Europe at least modern Whisky: of savouring the dram they contain. It is as early as the mid-17th century and has Today, almost every conceivable type this moment of sensation, contemplation been found in contexts as early as 1745 in and shape of bottle is to be found filled and anticipation, which contributes in the New World. However, some case gin with Single Malt whisky. Short, dumpy a unique way to the pleasure that is to type bottles were made in the U.S. during cylinders (Ardbeg), green glass, clear come. the time span of popularity for this bottle tall cylinders (Macallan), brown glass, So, next time you set down to enjoy type from at least the early 19th century. triangular (Glenfiddich), square (Walker your favourite dram, spend a moment brands), with fancy necks, squashed or two in quiet contemplation of the tall square short-necked flasks (Singleton of Auchroisk), squat centuries of craft, skill and artistry that spirits bottles: flasks (Glenrothes), bespoke flasks (Isle went into the very bottle from which it Once two-piece full sized moulds came of Jura), embossed (map of Orkney was poured. There is a message in every into common use in the early 19th underneath Highland Park) and more bottle, and it is simply this – “enjoy”. 12 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 13

the macallan in Lalique this third lalique decanter features the ‘stilligoutte’ of a the six Pillars perfume bottle, a long piece the six Pillars are the of pure crystal flowing down to a point from the base of unique elements that the bottle stopper combine to make the Macallan so special. the spiritual Home: Built in 1700, easter elchies House, a Jacobean manor in Speyside Scotland, is The Macallan’s spiritual home. t he Macallan have long been curiously small recognised as one of the stills: The Macallan’s finest single malt producers curiously small and in Scotland and through the uniquely shaped copper stills staggered release of their ‘Six Pillars’ help to concentrate the flavour of collection they have cemented that the spirit. reputation amongst purveyors of the very finest whiskies. This winter they the finest cut: The introduce the third of their Crystal ‘cut’ is the amount of Lalique decanters, with this edition distilled spirit collected comprising incredibly rare 57 Year Old from the stills as ‘new make’ Malt. spirit. The Macallan takes one of Macallan’s exclusive Dubai distributor, the finest ‘cuts’ of any distillery MMI, have secured this masterful single in Scotland; typically just 16 per malt to offer through their flagship cent goes forward to the cask duty free store, Le Clos. Previously the stage. Dubai International Airport outlet has successfully offered Macallan Lalique II, exceptional oak a 55 Year Old whisky, to their extensive casks: Unfaltering thE international customer base. obsession with The Macallan has been working selecting exceptional oak casks with Lalique since 2005, to produce brings an unsurpassed, timeless an exclusive series of limited edition quality to The Macallan. decanters based on The Macallan’s maCaLLan Six Pillars. The first two decanters in natural colour. at the series, Exceptional Oak Casks and The Macallan, natural Natural Colour, have proved hugely colour is something popular with both whisky consumers they insist on. It is the interaction in LaLiQuE and collectors of Lalique crystal. of spirit and wood alone which The Macallan’s Finest Cut inspires delivers the rich variety of colour. this third decanter in the Six Pillars Collection. The Speyside producer Peerless spirit: The takes one of the smallest ‘cuts’ of Macallan remains the any distillery in Scotland and at an single malt against exceptionally slow rate of ‘boil’. The ‘cut’ that the historically robust, fruity and Whisky Maker. David Cox, Director of of Macallan from first fill Spanish oak which was filled in 1952”. which all others must be judged. is the amount of distilled spirit that is rich Macallan style will continue for Fine & Rare Whiskies for The Macallan, sherry butts originally filled in 1949, So while the quality of the whisky is It is celebrated far and wide by actually collected from the stills and put generations to come as today’s new explains the complex composition of 1951 and 1952. The result is sumptuous without question, the Macallan Fine and experts and discerning drinkers into cask. While not being the most cost spirit becomes future decade’s prize this rarest of drams… “The 57 year single malt, showing off the classic dried Rare Team had to find a suitable partner as the world’s most precious effective way to create a malt whisky, malt whiskies. old has been vatted together from six fruits, spice and hints of peat redolent to share their uncompromising vision in whisky. The Macallan takes only the best of the The creation of the 57 Year Old casks made from two different species of The Macallan house style of the early creating the Six Pillars Collection. They best, typically just 16% of the total spirit required all the skill and experience of oak; the first, a 1950 American oak 1950’s. The age statement of 57 years opted to form a partnership with one output to fill their casks. This ensures of Bob Dalgarno, Macallan’s Master sherry butt, and the second, a vatting old is determined by the youngest cask of the world’s finest crystal sculptors, 14 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 15

the macallan in Lalique the macallan in Lalique 50 Years The first release in the series draws its inspiration from The Macallan’s exceptional Oak Casks in which the whisky was matured for a minimum of 50 years. The shape and fine detailing echoes that of the cask and its grain. 470 decanters released the macallan in Lalique 55 Years The second release in the series draws its inspiration from The Macallan’s natural Colour and holds 55 years old Macallan. Rather than adding colourants to its whisky as many other single malts do The Macallan celebrates its diversity in colour as a signature of the brands quality and integrity. The decanter is based upon the classic ‘parquerettes’ tiara perfume bottle design by Rene Lalique in 1910. 420 decanters released the macallan in Lalique 57 Years The 57 year old has been vatted together from two casks; the first, a 1950 american oak sherry butt, the second a vatting of Macallan from Spanish oak sherry butts originally filled in 1949, 1951 and 1952. Lalique of Paris. Lalique is the only crystal brand which, The result is a soft sumptuous single through artistry and fusion at 1,400°C, metamorphoses raw malt, showing off the classic dried materials into unique works of art. fruits, spice and hints of peat redolent This third Lalique decanter features the ‘stilligoutte’ of a of The Macallan house style of the early perfume bottle, a long piece of pure crystal flowing down 1950’s. Due to the rarity of the liquid, to a point from the base of the bottle stopper. A portion of only 400 decanters have been released the stopper has been left completely clear and not ‘satinee’, running from the top down to the point. This clear portion represents the 16% ‘finest cut’. Crafted at Lalique’s crystal While the previous Six Pillars releases have proved making facility in Wingen-sur-Moder, Alsace, each piece exceptionally popular, excitement surrounding the launch was worked on by up to 15 craftsmen, many of whom have of The Macallan’s third Lalique presentation has been attained the ‘Meilleur ouvrier de France’, a coveted award astonishing. Perhaps as traditional investment opportunities bestowed upon only the finest craftsman of France. look less secure than in past times, some consider it a sound David Cox explains how when working in collaboration option to place their wealth into rare and valuable nectar d’or. with such an esteemed partner, only the finest will do… “In Whatever it may be that drives the success of this stunning homage to the beauty of Lalique’s Finest Cut decanter, we series, it’s certain the 400 owners of the newly released chose a particularly rare 57 year old Macallan single malt Lalique decanters will sit proudly at the top table of The whisky. It is the second oldest Macallan whisky ever released, Macallan family with a rare piece of history. only surpassed in age by the legendary 1926, a 60 year old Witness The Macallan Lalique 57 Year Old in Le Clos, bottled in 1986.” Dubai International Airport. 16 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 17

hat’s IT TAKES TIME AND PATIENCE TO GET SUCH A richly flavoured whisky. W nEW? BUT ALL OUR DRINKERS AGREE IT WAS worth their while. S. Ue, MORe LOCaTIOn MORe CHOICe, MORe vaL WITH MMI… eeRfUL ReaSOnS TO Be CH bring you more ntly working to a tM MI, we’re consta r value all the tim e. ce and even bette choice, convenien th e opening of ou r ed to announce So we’re delight ted in Dubai Fe stival flagship store conveniently loca her 10 outlets new of our ot w store, or any wine City. Visit our ne from the largest the city, and pick up a bottle ays great in-stor e across lf – there’s alw rtfolio in the gu course and spirit po e for less. Plus of ring you get mor ed in this issue promotions ensu gle malts featur you’ll find all the fabulous sin Magazine. of your Whisky gold for glengoyne – second year in a Row Dumgoyne, 20th november 2009: Judges gLEnFiddiCh is the World’s most of the internationally famed and highly 277mm respected scottish field whisky challenge (sfwc) surprised even themselves this year, by once again awarding glengoyne 21 years old highland awarded single malt single Malt whisky the top accolade of overall 2009 Distillery Bottling of scotch Whisky - Let the year – for the second year in a row. Everyone Know! Since the launch of Every Year turn of the Millennium (2000). At Laphroaig, we’re not surprised when people tell us they don’t feel Counts in 2007, Glenfiddich has The IWSC and ISC are the most ready for our richly peated whisky. But we’re even less surprised when claimed the title of ‘The World’s contested global awards with they change their mind. Because although Laphroaig is a challenging Most Awarded Single Malt Scotch more entries than any other Whisky‘. The claim is based on spirit or whisky competitions. single malt, it’s also a rewarding one. So even if you’re not a Laphroaig results from the International Over the past two years, we have drinker today, we’re always ready to welcome you as a Friend of Laphroaig. Wine & Spirit Competition strengthened the claim with We’ll even give you a square foot of Islay and invite you to share a dram (IWSC) and the International outstanding results for all of whisky with us here on your very own plot of land. Spirits Challenge (ISC) - since the our range variants. To find out more about our whiskies and how to become a Friend of Laphroaig visit www.laphroaig.com gLEn garioCh 12 YEars Morrison Bowmore Distillers has cultured over the last 200 years to today launched its Glen Garioch Single create a boutique range of whiskies. Malt Whisky, with packaging and The new packaging designed by the designs by edinburgh-based nevis . agency is a reflection of the tradition The unveiling marks a new and boutique nature of Glen Garioch chapter of whisky making at one of and the distillery. Tactile, highly ENJOY RESPONSIBLY LAPHROAIG®, D Johnston & Co. (Laphroaig), Isle of Islay, Scotland Scotland ’s oldest distilleries. The crafted elements have been used launch celebrates the distillery’s long throughout, resulting in a hand-made, standing tradition of craftsmanship quality look and feel. – taking the skills and experience 18 SINGLE MALTS Ready when you are SINGLE MALTS 19

What’s new sCotLand’s most EXPEriEnCEd maLt mastEr nominatEd bowmore 1964 trilogy tHe balvenie WhisKY iCon sells for $21,600 at distilleRy christie’s auction announces william grant and sons’ owned company, David The Bowmore 1964 Trilogy sold for $21,600 limited David stewart has won a lifetime achievement has personally overseen the distiller’s award- at a Christie’s auction in New York on Saturday, beating the asking price of $18k. edition award after 46 years of winning range of single The three-bottle lot included the newly- C madeiRa dedication to his craft. the longest serving malts and blends: these include glenfiddich, released Gold Bowmore, White Bowmore (released in 2008) and Black Bowmore M cask 17 Master Blender and the world’s most (released in 2007). Y yeaR old Malt Master in scotch awarded single malt, the Bowmore is one of the oldest distilleries CM whisky, the toast of handcrafted whiskies in Scotland, and was the first distillery to be MY David Stewart has the whisky industry of the Balvenie and established on the island of Islay. CY announced a new limited at gliitering award grant’s Blended scotch, Like the previously-released whiskies in edition from The Balvenie ceromony as he the world’s favourite the Trilogy, Gold Bowmore matured below CMY Distillery, a 17 year old collected The Whisky family owned blend. he sea level in the distillery’s Number 1 vault. K single malt finished in Magazine icon of has been responsible Charles Curtis, head of North American Madeira casks. whisky award for for a number of industry wine sales for Christie’s, said: “The Matured in traditional his contributions and firsts, earning him Bowmore Trilogy, which sold for $21,600, oak and finished in casks accomplishments some of whisky’s top excited interest worldwide and was keenly previously used to make throughout a accolades and helping pursued by potential buyers. fortified Madeira wine, distinguished career. william grant & sons “We are honoured to have been the The Balvenie Madeira in the 46 years become Distiller of the route to market for the debut of this Cask 17 Year Old is a since he joined the year an unprecedented prestigious spirit, and believe that this real treat for the Scotch independent, family- three times in a row. result demonstrates the strength of the whisky enthusiast; nascent market for collectible spirits.” an exceptionally rich Mike Keiller, chief executive of Morrison an CnoC 16 YEars and rewarding mature Bowmore Distillers, said: “The final single malt whose deep, addition to the Trilogy, Gold Bowmore, luxurious aromas translate Inver House has introduced a 16 Year Old was only launched in October and was met into an equally rewarding expression of its anCnoc single malt Scotch with wonderful acclaim. flavour of spice and whisky brand. Unchill filtered “For the entire 1964 Bowmore Trilogy to dried fruit. and non-coloured, master distiller have been sold for an incredible price at The Balvenie Madeira Stuart Harvey is said to have the most prestigious auction house in the Cask is the latest in a hand selected the whiskies only world really is a fitting celebratory note to series of six 17 Year Old from those matured in American end on for this unique collection limited edition releases by bourbon oak barrels. Previous of whisky.” The Balvenie Distillery and anCnoc whiskies have been “We are very proud of all three offers a spicy counterpoint finished in sherry oak. The taste is whiskies – they’re great examples of to the rich sweetness of described as light and zesty with the quality we strive for with every 2008’s release, the award- a hint of spice, warming up to expression we create – and we look winning The Balvenie toffee. forward to continuing this success with RumCask. future exclusive Bowmore editions.” 20 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 21

top 10 Where to Find a good dram toP 10 most feaTURInG OveR 20 SInGLe MaLT, InCLUDInG 8 Of TOP 10 In THe WORLD, anD fURTHeR 20 EXPEnsivE WhisKiEs MORe BRanDS avaILaBLe On ReqUeST, THeRe’S SOMeTHInG fOR eveRYOne 1 The Macallan 1926 Fine and Rare ........................................ $75,000 2 Dalmore 62 Single Highland Malt ......................................... $58,000 dubai Flagship retail store 3 Glenfiddich 1937 Rare Collection ......................................... $20,000 Le Clos ......................................Tel: 04 220 3583 4 The Macallan 55 year old Lalique Crystal Decanter ............. $12,500 Al Wasl ....................................Tel: 04 232 5522 5 Dalmore 50 year old decanter .............................................. $11,000 Mall of Emirates .......................Tel: 04 341 0371 6 Glenfarclas 1955 50 year old ................................................. $10,878 Ibn Battuta ..............................Tel: 04 368 5626 7 The Macallan 1939 40 year old fine and rare collection ...... $10,125 Trade Centre ...........................Tel: 04 352 3091 8 Chivas Regal Royal Salute 50 year old .................................. $10,000 Shiekh Zayed Road ..................Tel: 04 321 1223 9 The Macallan 1947 Fine & Rare Collection ............................. $6,800 10 Ladybank Single Malt ............................................................. $4,700 toP 10 WhisKY Consuming nations 1 France ................................................................................. 48m litres festival City, MMI’s latest retail store 2 USA .................................................................................. 33m litres 3 Spain.................................................................................. 29m litres 4 UK .................................................................................... 28m litres Dubai Festival City ...................Tel: 04 232 5522 5 Thailand ............................................................................ 14m litres Opening Hours for all stores 6 Venezuela ......................................................................... 11m litres 11:00am-9pm (Sat-Thurs). Closed Fridays 7 Brazil ................................................................................. 10m litres 8 China ................................................................................... 9m litres spinney’s Flagship retail stores 9 Greece ................................................................................. 8m litres Spinneys Muroor .....................Tel: 02 641 9366 10 South Korea ........................................................................ 8m litres Spinneys Khalidiya .................Tel: 02 681 2356 Spinneys Al Ain .......................Tel: 03 763 6367 Source: Scotch Whisky Industry Review 2009 and relate to 2008 consumption Opening Hours for all stores 10:00am-1pm & 4pm – 8.30pm (Sat-Thurs). Closed Fridays oman Flagship retail stores OUA Madinat Qaboos .................Tel: 2460 3892 SCS Azaiba...................................Tel: 2449 5157 OUA Ruwi ..................................Tel: 2470 4031 Opening Hours for all stores 9am-1pm & 5pm-9pm (Sat-Thurs). Closed Fridays sign uP to the single Malt society anD finD out aBout whisky events anD exclusive offers throughout the uae. for More inforMation log on to our weBsite www.MMiDuBai.coM 22 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 23

BigLittle Profile of islay isLand fROM JUST One LITTLe ISLanD Off THe WeST COaST Of SCOTLanD COMe SOMe Of THe WORLD’S BeST LOveD MaLTS. ISLaY, PROfILeD. t he Isle of Islay is the southernmost island of the Inner Southern Hebrides of Scotland, and counts the Isle of Jura, Kintyre peninsula and Northern Ireland as its neighbours. The earliest known reference to the Isle of Islay comes in Adomnan’s ‘Vita Columbae’, in a biography of the Irish Saint, Columba or Colum Cille, in about 720 AD. St Columba visited the Isle of Islay on his way north, prior to founding the famous monastery on the Isle of Iona, off the southwest tip of the Isle of Mull. Adomnan, St Columba’s biographer, wrote Islay’s name as ‘Ilea’, describing Islay as an inhabited island, which was later transformed to Islay through anglicised spelling. In Gaelic, the island’s name is spelt Ìle and pronounced EE-leh by native Gaelic speakers. The anglicized pronunciation is ‘eye-luh’, and never, ever call it Is-lay! The Isle of Islay has around 3,200 inhabitants, covers an area of 600 square kilometres and has an impressive 130 miles of coastline. The island is famous for its malt whiskies and currently has nine working distilleries, making the malt whisky industry one of the most important sources of income for the island. Famous names include Bruichladdich, Bowmore, Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Caol Ila, Bunnahabhain and Ardbeg all of which are established brands and well known all over the world; more recent additions are Port Charlotte and Kilchoman. Given Islay’s location, it is not surprising that her other main industries are farming, fishing and tourism. It is with good reason that she’s known as Queen of the Hebrides. Bird watching is popular throughout the year because of the large flocks of wild geese that visit the Isle of Islay every winter (October to May) and the huge variety of rare birds seen on Islay such as the corncrake and the chough. The island has a very long and rich human history. Evidence has been found showing that the Isle of Islay was inhabited by very early settlers who came here in Mesolithic times after Laphroaig; The World’s no.1 Islay Malt Whisky the last Ice Age in around 7500BC as fishermen 24 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 25

Profile of islay Bowmore Distillery “it is believed that and hunters. In later Neolithic and Islay’s climate benefits from the crofters grew the forerunner of the McLeish of Kilchoman Parish proclaimed them they produce in excess of 20,000,000 early Bronze Age times, many standing warming effect of the Gulf Stream, modern barley, called ‘bere’, which they that “we have not an excise officer on the litres of alcohol per year and with a rate and carved stones were raised - the irish monks first bringing mild winters with little frost or used for their subsistence, leaving a whole island. The quantity, therefore, of of duty of £19.81 per litre of alcohol, Islay intriguing Cultoon stone circle dates back to this time. introduced the art snow and summers that are not too hot. The driest, most pleasant weather is often healthy surplus that could be distilled. In those early days, distilling was whisky made here is very great, and the evil that follows drinking to excess of and Jura can hold their heads high as major contributors to the UK economy. The island was also once the main of distillation to from May to July, when the long daylight carried out openly in black shebeens this liquor is very visible on the island”. In former years, possibly 95% of the seat of power in the west of Scotland islay, during the hours are most enjoyable. This lack of until the introduction, in 1644, of the The situation on Islay in 2002 reverted whisky produced was used in the make early fourteenth and became known as the home of the extremes plays an important role in the Excise Act when a tax was levied on to that of 1797, where no Gaugers were up of all the famous blends, i.e. Johnny Lords of the Isles. The remains of their maturation of Islay’s unrivalled whiskies. whisky. This forced the distillers to move stationed on the island. Walker, White Horse, Black and White, settlements are still visible at Finlaggan, century” It is believed that Irish monks first into the remote glens and caves to avoid The Mull of Oa peninsula was well Dewar’s White Label, Balantines, Chivas which is one of the most important introduced the art of distillation to Islay, detection, but in fact the first exciseman, known for illicit distilling, with stills Regal, Famous Grouse, Bell’s - the list archaeological sites to be found here. to around 800AD and is a fine example during the early fourteenth century. In known as ‘Gaugers’, did not dare to set found at Cragabus, Stremnishmore, Lower is endless. However, with the increased Other remains of Islay’s religious history of this early history. Other high crosses Islay they found an island eminently foot on Islay until 1797. There was great Killeyan and Goil. There were also stills at interest worldwide in Single Malts a far and carved stones are visible at several can be found at Kilnave and Kilchoman, suited for the production of Uisge Beathe, reluctance on the part of the excisemen to Octomore, Bridgend, Dail, Lossit, Tallant greater proportion of whisky is now locations around the island - the Kildalton and carved grave slabs can be seen at (water of life) thanks to her unlimited come to an island where the natives had a and Mulindry. Today we are left with nine laid down for release in this way, and High Cross is the last unbroken ringed Kilchoman, Kilnaughton, Keills, Bridgend, supplies of peat, and lochs and rivers fearsome reputation as a ‘wild barbarous licensed working distilleries on Islay (and Islay’s distillers are experimenting with Celtic cross existing in Scotland, dating Finlaggan and Nereabolls. filled with pure soft water. The local people’. In 1777, the Reverend John one on the nearby island of Jura); between an ever growing range of finishes and 26 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 27

Profile of islay Fact File ardbeg Kilchoman Date opened: 1815 Date opened: 2005 current owners: LMvH Group current owners: kilchoman Distillery Co. Ltd. Production (per annum): 950,000 litres Production (per annum): initially 90,000 litres, Barley Phenol level: 56.5ppm capacity 180,000 litres wash backs/charge: 6 (3 larch, 3 Oregon Pine) Barley Phenol level: 18-25 ppm from own floor / 23,500 litres wash backs/charge: 2/5,400 litres wash stills: 1 spirit stills: 1 wash stills: 1 spirit stills: 1 bruichladdich Lagavulin Date opened - 1881 Date opened: 1816 current owners - Murray McDavid/local current owners: Diageo shareholders Production(per annum): 2,300,000 litres Production (per annum) - 320,000 litres Barley Phenol level: 35ppm Barley Phenol level - Bruichladdich 5ppm, Port wash backs/charge: 10 (Larch)/ 21,300 litres Charlotte 40ppm, Octomore 70 -130ppm wash stills: 2 spirit stills: 2 wash backs/charge - 6 (Oregon Pine)/ 36,000 litres Laphroaig wash stills: 2 spirit stills: 2 Date opened - 1815 current owners - Beam Global Brands bunnahabhain Production(per annum) - 2,000,000 litres Date opened: 1881 Barley Phenol level - 40ppm. current owners: Burn Stewart Distillers wash backs/charge - 6 (Stainless Steel)/ Production (per annum): 1,000,000 litres 42,000 litres Barley Phenol level: Bunnahabhain 2ppm, wash stills: 3 spirit stills: 4 (3 small, 1 large) peated 38ppm wash backs/charge: 6 (Oregon Pine)/ Kilchoman, islay 66,500 litres kilchoman have decided on a unique approach wash stills: 2 spirit stills: 2 and will sell their whisky exclusively as single malt. The annual production capacity will be 180,000 bowmore litres and production initially reached 91,500 litres Landscape image of Islay Date opened: 1779 in 2008. as a comparison the other Islay distilleries current owners: Suntory on average produce 70,000 litres each Production (per annum): 1,700,000 litres expressions to delight their many fans steep the barley in the same water. greenish malt, with some peat/iodine/ Barley Phenol level: 25ppm. around the world. “islay whiskies More recent trends have seen a sharp increase in peating, and new players salt balanced by floral notes and a peppery finish. wash backs/charge: 6 (Oregon Pine)/ 40,000 litres islay Peat and Water generally reverse in the market. Ardbeg have released wash stills: 2 spirit stills: 2 Islay is very largely composed of the characteristics their Supernova, with over 100ppm, Kilchoman: a Farm distillery of speysides, peat. The water on Islay is brown, perhaps in response to Bruichladdich’s Kilchoman (pronounced kilhoman) is Caol ila even the water in the taps is brown. adventure with Octomore, peated to a a Farm Distillery, the first to be built Date opened: 1846 (re-Built early 1970s) Winter gales drive salt spray far inland, tending to be dry phenomenal 131ppm. on Islay for 124 years, and opened in current owners: Diageo and this saturates the peat, which is and peaty; behind northern distilleries 2004. The whole production process is Production(per annum): 3,500,000 litres Barley Phenol level: 35ppm , “Highland” 0ppm the smoke” dried again by the briny, seaweedy carried out on Islay including growing blast. All these characteristics go into The northern Islay distilleries – and malting their own barley. The wash backs/charge: 8 (Oregon Pine)/ the whiskies of Islay, to an extent Bruichladdich (before the Octomore) and distillery is located near Loch Gorm 54,000 litres determined by the master distiller at Bunnahabhain (‘Boona-hah-ven’) were, by and only 500 metres (as the crow wash stills: 3 spirit stills: 3 each distillery. southern distilleries contrast, much milder. These draw their flies) from Machair Bay on the Atlantic The southern distilleries - Ardbeg, water direct from the spring, before it has Ocean. The perfect ingredients for strongest flavoured Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Port Ellen had contact with peat, and use lightly or another great Islay Malt. but is not quite so powerful, as does new Port Charlotte Distillery opened There are eight distilleries on the island, all (the latter was closed in 1983) - are un-peated barley. The resulting whiskies Caol Ila, whereas Bruichladdich and its doors in 2009 and is located in the coastal and battered by salt-winds, except the most powerful, producing medium- are lighter flavoured, mossy (rather than islay malts’ Characteristics Bunnahabhain are lighter and much less centre of Port Charlotte using the old for the new Kilchoman Distillery. Among bodied whiskies, saturated with peaty), with some seaweed, some nuts, Islay whiskies generally reverse the smoky. All of Islay’s Malts have a dry buildings of the former Lochindaal their products are the strongest flavoured peat-smoke, brine and iodine. Not but still the dry finish. characteristics of Speysides, tending to finish, the southern ones with quite a bite. Distillery. Much of the working of all malt whiskies, a characteristic only do these distilleries use heavily Bowmore Distillery, in the middle of be dry and peaty; behind the smoke, equipment was rescued before the which endears them to some and enrages peated malt (traditionally 54ppm at the island on the shore of Loch Indaal, however, can be gentle mossy scents, and a new chapter in islay’s demolition of Dumbarton’s Inverleven others. Most of the maltings used for the Ardbeg, 40ppm at Laphroaig), they stands between the two extremes - peaty some spice. The southern Islay distilleries Whisky history Distillery, dismantled, transported production of whisky on Islay, are done use the island’s brown water for every but not medicinal, with some toffee, produce powerfully phenolic whiskies, A newcomer and Islay’s ninth distillery and given new life here as the world’s at the Port Ellen Maltings according to the stage of production. Until they were some floral scents, and traces of linseed with aromas redolent of tar, smoke, iodine is the Port Charlotte Distillery, owned greenest distillery. Its output is specific requirements (peat level) of each closed in the early 1980s, Ardbeg had oil. Caol Ila (‘Cal-eela’), although close and carbolic. Bowmore, in the middle of and operated by Bruichladdich, which expected to be at the smoky end of the individual distillery. its own floor maltings and used to to Bunnahabhain, produces a delicate, the island, shares these characteristics announced the plan in March 2007. The spectrum. 28 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 29

Profile of islay Islay in 200 0 2006 numbErs On the face of it Islay is just another The number of computers used in the Islay ’s newest distillery, Kilchoman, island of the Inner Hebrides , yet it is production process at Bruichladdich, ran its first distillation and was perhaps the most important 200 or so Islay ’s back to basics distiller! immediately declared a success, even if square miles in the whisky world only on the basis the pure spirit’s raw 1 character 130 With around 130 miles of rugged Due to its perceived medicinal qualities one whisky was allowed into America 1983 coastline lashed by the Atlantic , this and even prescribed by doctors during The year Scotland ’s most reminisced is home to some of the most famous prohibition – Laphroaig over distillery closed its doors for good and revered distilleries in the world. – Port Ellen. Seek out a bottle while 15 Ardbeg, Bowmore, Bruichladdich, you still can Bunnahabhain, Coal lla, Kilchoman, 2.3m Lagavulin and Laphroaig Laphroaig’s 15 Year Old is also 500 the only single malt to have been awarded a Royal Warrant by The Lagavulin today is one of the Prince of Wales. The peaty malt powerhouses of Islay, producing an That works out at 1 distillery for every is famously reputed to be one of astonishing 2.3million litres of spirit 500 inhabitants on the island! the world’s most highly flavoured each year whiskies 32 Bruichladdich is the only producer 1779 2009 Ardbeg Uigeadail Pronounced ‘Oo-ga- on the island to employ only Ileachs One of the oldest distilleries in daal’. is World Whisky of the Year 2009, (Islay dwellers) and has 32 locals on Scotland, the Bowmore Distillery in Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible 2009 the payrole was allegedly established on the with Ardbeg Ten Years Old enjoying shores of Loch Indaal in 1779 by the same honour in 2008 380,500 a local merchant, John P. Simpson. 2 Today, it is owned and operated by Japanese giant Suntory Fans have signed up to be a ‘Friend of 3500 Laphroaig’ through their website; each Only 2 distilleries Bruichladdich & one now enjoys a life long lease on a Kilchoman that are not owned by 1 square foot of prime Islay land! foreign (sorry England ) companies, 3500 the number inhabitants on island but by people not only from Scotland of Islay but from the island itself. People who 500,000,000 don’t have to report to bosses in Tokyo , Paris , New York and who decide for one of a kind, ardbeg Half a billion, the amount generated themselves which cask they want to in taxes for the British economy. No bottle operates under the wonder they islanders are angry about the outrageous high prices they have watchful eye “shortie”, to pay for their journey on the (state owned) ferry their trusty Jack russell 30 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 31

Whisky investing i t’s difficult to say at which point and into their selected cask. At this in time it became commonplace stage the enthusiast would do well to collect what were previously to research their choice carefully and everyday purchases in the hope consider what the purpose of their that their future sale would derive a investment is. profit. However in times of recession it The romantic ideal of owning a cask especially appears worthwhile to seek and knowing it is patiently awaiting out rarities and antiques as a safer form you in a far flung corner of Scotland of investment than traditional stocks may be exactly that - a romantic ideal. and shares. There are certainly a lot of There used to be many who offered Beatles fans who wish they kept hold the opportunity to mature spirit in your of their vinyl collection rather than cask of choice, but as the paperwork consigning it to the dustbin of history and admin of such ventures has grown, in the name superior cassette sound. the popularity amongst distillers has On the other hand, only time will tell waned. It is essential that investors whether it really was worth queuing in such schemes know what they are five hours on release day to have each getting into and realise the final taxes and every Spice Girl sign your copy and relatively high bottling charges of their “much anticipated” second associated with single cask whiskies. album… Macallan offer possibly the most So where does the canny investor opt exclusive single cask ‘package’ to a to put their money in an age where it very small group of investors who seems even milk may appear in limited are invited to join the Macallan family edition, diamond studded wax carton, each year. As part of the package, individually numbered and hand sealed 25 Macallan aficionados are invited In by a celebrity milk maid? to create their perfect whisky by Wine has long been seen as a safe marrying new make spirit with their investment as its quality is generally choice of cask. The filling day at the invEsting seen to increase with time spent distillery is the crux of the experience maturing in bottle. Famous vintages of during which your Butt, Puncheon or top Bordeaux wines dating back to the Hogshead cask is sealed and taken to 1940’s are often recognised today as the duty bonded warehouse where WhisKY some of the most valuable in existence, it will remain for a minimum of 12 especially due to their still potentially years. After leaving your mark on the long shelf life. However, it appears the cask, lucky owners will be regularly Scottish mentality to hoard, may now informed of progress as the whisky be paying off in a similar manner for maker updates your logbook with whisky distillers and collectors alike. observations as to the maturity and While many wines develop and character of the evolving spirit. better themselves in bottle, a whisky’s When finally ready for bottle, your character is finalised as soon as the Macallan will be adorned with a distiller pushes the cork in place. label of your design, completing the Therefore 12 Year Old Single malt appreciated four or five decades later. evident when stepping into the still air Year Old Auchentoshan and 55 Year of a 1926 vintage Macallan in 1991. individual and unique aspect of your bottled in 1960 will taste the same While it’s true that many whiskies have of a warehouse bulging with patiently Old Macallan show what the most However crazy some may have thought prize whisky. There aren’t many who today as it did back then. While it’s true long since past their best after such a resting nectar. Over the course of a 50 patient bottlers can achieve. the purchase, the resale for $33,000 last can lay claim to their own vintage cask that the rarity of such bottles will drive lengthy maturation, those that develop year maturation, a distiller can expect As clever marketing penetrates year proved that for the wise speculator Macallan; to enquire about joining the their value skywards, the reality is that in perfect harmony with their cask, to lose up to two thirds of the original emerging markets such as Russia and there is money to make in whisky. As family contact- fraser@leclos.net. so few exist the opportunity buy comes offer an experience that malt lovers the fill; needless to say, what remains is China, demand for expressions limited for the greatest ever sale? That honour While it may take a while to realise up very seldom. world over crave for. very valuable. to only a couple hundred bottles has goes to a 62 Year Old Dalmore that your investment, whisky may provide Where you’re much more likely to As with everything, rarity is what As growth in the luxury drinks seen some rare malts double in price fetched $52,400 in 2005. one of the safer options for a place find an antique gem from Scotland’s drives price and many of these malts sector continues to beat the odds, in a very short time. Older bottlings But what if you want to get in early to put your extra cash. The secret to most famous export industry, is in the are very rare! Aiding this is the natural Master blenders are finding demand from well established distilleries such and bag your chosen dram before it’s future riches may lie in many different shape of recently revealed, mature loss of whisky that occurs at a rate of for top end, mature, single malts as The Macallan are difficult to find even gone into cask? While En Primeur forms; whether it’s an ancient bottling, single malt. Those filling casks fifty about 2% for every year the spirit is knows no end. Collectors are still on the open market, the route to such is a well trodden path in the world of a super mature cask or a new cask with years ago in some of Scotland’s greatest kept in cask. This is cutely referred snapping up bottles such as the 40 antique gems is typically through wine, it is only recently that distillers potential, the whisky lover has many distilleries would never have believed to as the ‘angel’s share’ and is a result Year Old Dalmore, Bruichladdich and the auction house. $10,000 may have have offered clients the opportunity to options to turn their liquid gold into that their efforts would only be fully of the evaporation that becomes very Glenfiddich, while at the pinnacle, 50 seemed quite an outlay for the buyer buy their spirit straight from the still solid gold! 32 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 33

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Japanese Whiskies Le Clos’s Picks Comments by Jim Murray, writer of the acclaimed Whisky Bible Prices quoted Le Clos, www.leclos.net nikka Yoichi 20 Year old Price: aeD 920 score: 95 / 100 Points The nose offers magnificently intense Oloroso, while the background malt is oak-laden. Oloroso leads the way again on the palate, intensely at first, but quickly settling to allow W some stupendous spices to unravel hen you picture whisky and create balance – fabulous, country, the chances are bittersweet harmony. The you have an image in your fruit is spotlessly clean and head of a whitewashed displaying a grapey complexity, distillery set against fields of barley, with the spices are warming but not a choppy sea frothing in the foreground. entirely engulfing. I don’t know However, where is the picture set? Is it how much they charge for this Laphroaig or Bowmore on the remote stuff, but either alone or with island of Isla? Perhaps, it’s Isle of Jura just mates, get some for one hell of across the sound? Wherever the imagery an experience. is based, it may be that the chances are, you are not thinking of Japan. However, all this could change in Yamazaki 18 time as Japanese whiskies are becoming Year old increasingly popular outside their country Price: aeD 460 of origin. Its not that Japanese whiskies score: 89 / 100 Points are particularly new, indeed, they have aromas from the date and been produced for a surprisingly long walnut school of bigness. Surprisingly early signs of JaPanEsE insight time and can largely be traced back to one man who visited Scotland and took It’s only recently that Japanese single chocolate appear on the palate his love affair with whisky back to the Far malts have become international and it melts in beautifully with East on the same ship that he did. sellers and stepped away from the raisins and nuts. While it It was 1918 when Masataka Taketsuru their domestically dominated target dries rather sharp, there are still studied Chemistry in Glasgow - a market. Their explosion on the world malty echoes to enjoy. Overall subject that would prove useful in his marketplace is largely a result of the quality shines through like a future endeavours. Taketsuru started his future wife. Upon his arrival back home, a more individual Japanese style to rival however, are the natural aspects of ‘Whisky Magazine’s Best of Best Award’ rising sun. distilling apprenticeship at Longmorn in Shinjiro Torii who founded the first the status quo. diversity such as the growing conditions scooped by Yoichi’s single malt in 2001. Speyside before heading to Hazelburn whisky distillery in Japan – Yamazaki, With this in mind, the site of experienced by barley and the flavour This forced the whisky community to in Campbeltown where he also met his hired him as distillery executive. However, Taketsuru’s Yoichi distillery was chosen as and texture of the water. As the only two sit up and take notice; never before nikka from the barrel in 1934 Taketsuru decided to use his it shared a similar climate and terrain to ingredients in a malt whisky, any variance had Japanese whiskies received this Price: aeD 140 score: 89 / 100 Scottish education to create his own many of those he had visited and worked here will be reflected in the final product. sort of endorsement. Their position was The winner of the Best Japanese Blended company, Dainipponkaju, which later with in Scotland. However, as with their While Scotland is famed for its distilling reinforced last year at the World Whisky Whisky category at The World Whiskies opened the distillery we know today as Scottish counterparts today, it is difficult history, Japan may view as an advantage Awards when Japanese whiskies took awards 2007, this is big-boned and Yoichi. These founding stars of Japanese to pigeonhole Japanese distillers under its’ lesser heritage in whisky production. both the top two awards for Best Malt bursting with character. not whisky are still the two most recognisable one umbrella as they strive to create They don’t have the shackles of tradition and Blended Whiskies. averse to a drop of water, either. brands today. their own styles of malt. Some like Nikka that are burdened on their Scottish Whisky writers continue to heap a real star. floral nose, In the early years, Japanese whisky Yoichi may be peaty and smoky much counterparts and are therefore able to praise upon Japanese distillers, many with a touch of orange production was primarily based on an like a typical Isla whisky, while others can experiment and try different production of whose differing expressions can be peel and apricots. Boiled attempt to recreate the Scottish style. be closely resembled to Speyside malts methods. Some use Japanese oak to age found in Le Clos, MMI’s top end duty sweets and a little spice. There was a false perception amongst that are lighter, delicate and more floral. their spirit. This often suggests aromas of free wines and spirits store, Dubai Big and well-balanced at Japanese distillers and consumers that While many elements of production Joss Sticks and is quite unique. Yamazaki International Airport. Ask the team at Le first, some spicy oak and outside of the traditional homeland it was are a direct replication of what you will for example, now ages some of their Clos for a recommendation from their ripe fruit coming through impossible to create the same quality of find happening in Scotland today, there whisky in Japanese slow growing oak wide range; nowhere else in the Middle and then a tickle of fire whisky as enjoyed by Scotch drinkers. are microcosms of difference that give barrels that are very rare, whilst Nikka East will you find such an extensive and oak at the finish. add At this point, there was also a lack of each distillery and expression its unique uses specially charred new oak barrels as collection of Japanese Malts. Contact water for a real treat. confidence in the potential for developing identity. Especially worth emphasis usually found with American Bourbon. fraser@leclos.net for more info. 36 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 37

robert burns b orn in 1759, sin of fornication, having got Lizzie Paton Scotland’s most pregnant, and he is the acknowledged celebrated son, father of 14 children only 5 of who were Robert Burns born in marriage. (1759-1796), lived a short Burns wrote “Freedom and whisky gang but eventful life, dying at thegither” (a line from his poem ‘The Author’s the age of 37. Starting out Earnest Cry and Prayer’) having discovered as a labourer on his father’s the ‘national’ drink at the age of 22 in Irvine, farm, he went on to become where he was apprenticed in the trade of a writer, exciseman and flax dressing. His passion was fellowship, celebrated society figure. usually in the company and stimulation of Burns travelled throughout tavern friends. He carried pen and paper southern and central Scotland everywhere and undoubtedly scribbled many where he gathered inspiration poems with his tavern friends and a dram at for much of his work. The the side. About this he wrote: stunning Ayrshire scenery and the romantic setting of “Oh whisky! Soul o’ plays and pranks! Dumfries helped provide the Accept a bardie’s gratefu’ thanks! insight for compiling much of When wanting thee, what tuneless cranks robErt his romantic material. Are my poor verses! And it is not just at home in Thou comes - they rattle in their ranks, Scotland that his life is celebrated At ither’s arses! - around the world, tributes to Fortune! If thou but gie me still the life and works of Robert Hale breeks, a scone, an’ whisky gill, Burns are held every year, An’ rowth o’ rhyme to rave at will, burns through the ritual of the Burns Tak a’ the rest, Supper. Originally started a few An’ deal’t about as thy blind skill years after his death by a group Directs thee best.” of his friends and acquaintances Evidently a scone and a gill of whisky to honour his memory, Burns were all the sustenance and inspiration homEComing Suppers are now celebrated Burns needed to write fine verse. And let’s annually on the date of his birth, not forget what is arguably his most famous 25th January. song; probably sung by more people in the No Burns Supper would be Western-speaking world than any other, complete without The Haggis, namely Auld Lang Syne (old time’s sake): The Drink (normally Whisky), The Songs, The Recitals, The Should auld acquaintance be forgot, 1759 - 2009 Dance and of course the most And never brought to mind? important ingredient of all, The Should auld acquaintance be forgot, Fun. If Burns were alive today he And auld lang syne! too would surely have enjoyed the celebrations! For auld lang syne, my dear, The year 2009 marked the artist John Byrne For auld land syne 250th anniversary of Robert We’ll tak a cup o’ kindness yet Burns’ birth, and this event For auld lang syne. was the inspiration behind the ‘Year of Scotland’s National Poet. Though his women. It was the love of women that Homecoming’. Thousands of expatriate early years were shaped by the drudgery inspired him to write verse in the first And there’s a hand, my trusty fiere, Scots came home to the home of Burns of hard labour on his father’s farm, he place: And gie’s a hand o’ thine, in 2009 and celebrated his life and work later found fame and fortune in the “ For my part I never had the least And we’ll tak a richt gude-willy waught at one of the many Burns-related events company of the rich and famous in the thought or inclination of turning For auld lang syne. during the year. Up and down the elegance of Edinburgh drawing rooms. poet until I got heartily in love, country, events were held to celebrate the But, it is clear that his greatest pleasures and then rhyme and song As Burns grasps the hand of his trusty rich diversity and cultural wealth of the were the company of friends in a rough were, in a manner, the friend with the words “give us a hand of nation – ceilidhs, exhibitions, gatherings tavern or in the arms of a beautiful spontaneous language of thine, and we’ll take a right, hearty drink for large and small, whisky tastings, formal woman, for his poetry is a celebration of my heart.” And this love of auld land syne” we just know he’s celebrating dinners, impromptu get-togethers and fellowship, nature and love, rich policical the women frequently got their kinship with fine Scotch whisky. musical encounters. It was a year he satire and sharp social comment. him into trouble too - at the No doubt about it - freedom, would have enjoyed immensely. Of these themes, Burns is undoubtedly age of 25 he was publicly friendship and whisky gang thegither. Aye Robert Burns is recognized today as best known for love and his pursuit of harangued in Church for the did, aye will. 38 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 39

around the isles Lordsof the isLEs to assume the flavour profile of scottish malts is generated purely from their geographical location is a pitfall that’s easy to stumble into. Decades of bright marketing has told us to embrace highland, lowland, speyside, islay and campbeltown for their varying terroir generated characteristics. But over time individual distilleries in these regions have experimented with varying peating levels, using diverse cask finishes and expanding their range of expressions. while there is still a classic flavour profile associated with these broad regions there are numerous examples that buck the trend. scotland’s island distilleries prove no exception and their diverse styles offer varied selection for the adventurous tippler. 40 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 41

around the isles talisker (skye) Sitting on the Isle of Skye since 1830. At Carbost, by the seashore, on the west coast of the island, in the face of the prevailing westerlies. All that is the environment of Scotland’s west coast islands is to be found here. The sea and the sky and the air and the geology and the geography and the history. It’s all in every drop of Talisker, edged salt and sharp ginger and glowing hot spices and Skye reek and twinkling water. just above the sandy high tide line in Scapa Bay in Scapa Flow. tobermory (mull) Reopened in 2006 following Founded 1823 Tobermory distillery is substantial refurbishment, its smart on the Isle of Mull, a Hebriddean isle in whitewashed sea wall proclaiming western Scotland. its return to the malt whisky world. Based in the harbour town of the same Using unpeated malt its whisky is light, name, Tobermory is the only distillery however, maturation in bourbon oak on the island of Mull. Formally named Scapa Distillery casks in its own seaside, sea sprayed Ledaig distillery, today Tobermory dunnage warehouses adds some vanilla distillery produces both a lighly peated and salt and cocoa and little twist of Tobermory malt and heavily peated woody spices. Rarely bottled as single Ledaig malt. The house style is described To attribute a specific style to the “at the northern nearly 800 islands, only a handful of them highland Park (orkney) malt, but worth seeking out. as a light smoky nose, a medium dry most tip of vastly spread Island distilleries is can boast their own distillery, here’s our The oldest distillery on Orkney, profile with a smooth and fruity tang. clearly not possible. At the northern guide to the collection. founded 1798. Lots of time to perfect a Jura most tip of Scotland on the island of scotland on sumptuous dram. Following its rebuilding in 1963 on the isle of arran Orkney you’ll find Highland Park and Scapa while the west coast islands the island of Arran Distillery is one of Scotland’s most The most northerly distillery in Scotland, making it the closest Scottish site of the original ruined distillery, the distillery has produced a highland are home to Talisker, Tobermory, Jura orkney you’ll recent, being founded in 1995. The last distillery to the Arctic Circle. One of style malt, using the same water source and Arran. find highland distillery on the island closed in 1837, the few to still operate its own floor as the original, but using only lightly Park and scapa There is however one flavour that is so the development of this new one and malting, cut its own for the fire and peated malt. The first single malt was often found in tasting notes of island recommencement of distillation on the real peat reek. Smooth, sweet, smoky released in 1974, but the bulk of its malts and that is of sea salt. This is while the west island after an interval of 170 years was sherry, dried fruit and a fine dusting of output at the time went for blending. a by-product of cask’s long aging in warehouses with close proximity to the coast islands are heartening to all whisky enthusiasts. It has now been producing spirit for spice. Highland Park is one of the few distilleries to malt its own barley, using Since 1995, Richard Paterson, Master Blender of Whyte & Mackay, has selected wind battered coasts of Scotland. Another home to talisker, 16 years, time enough to have developed locally cut peat from Hobbister Moor. whiskies for individual bottling as Isle flavour imparted over the years can be tobermory, Jura its own personality. Delicate and light, of Jura Single Malt, and more recently scapa (orkney) and arran” that of seaweed and brine, another classic some with complexity from a wide range the distillery introduced a more smoky island observation. While Scotland has of wood finishes. Founded in 1885 and sitting on the rocks offering called Superstition. 42 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 43

around the isles Islands in numbErs 14 Harold Currier founded Arran 160 At 160 hours, Scapa has the longest 1,000,000 The value of British currency burnt 1984 It was on the Ilse of Jura that author 250 Years since the birth of Robert distillery in 1993 and won “Whisky fermentation time of any distillery in in a video stunt by music duo “The George Orwell wrote his famous novel Burns, Scotland’s national poet. Magazine’s” coveted Distiller of the Scotland KLF” on the South coast of Jura in Nineteen Eighty-Four. He was know by To mark the anniversary, Scotland Year Award only 14 years later 1994 residents as his real name, Eric Blair held a year-long Homecoming celebration with a huge variety of 160,000 1472 The year in which the islands of Orkney 59 4 events – and May was designated Whisky Month. Visit www. homecomingscotland2009.com The number of tourists who visit were annexed to the Scottish crown 59 Degrees North The latitude of the Tobermory distillery on the Isle of 1949 Isle of Arran distillery every year, having been having been settled by the world’s northernmost Scotch whisky Mull has closed four times in its long the island itself houses only 5000 Norse in 1875. The archipelago’s flag distillery, Highland Park in Orkney. history but has each time risen from residents still displays heavy Nordic influence. me A revamped visitors centre includes a the ashes under new ownership of any distillery in Scotland cask education area which highlights the importance of sherry oak casks the year that the iconic film Whisky galore! 8 There have been eight distilleries in 9,042 to the process, and a tasting room where you can try the Highland Park varieties 2000 2000: The year when black grouse were premiered. it was based on the true story of 1941 shipwreck of the ss Politician after it operation on Orkney, now only the For every one of Jura’s 188 residents last sighted on the Isle of Arran, until left Liverpool and the unauthorised removal youngest (Scapa) and the oldest (Highland Park ) remain there are 9,042 litres of alcohol distilled annually their re-introduction in February. Since 1970, the British population of the of its cargo of scotch. it was filmed in Ealing species has decreased dramatically. studios and on the island of barra 44 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 45

isle of Jura Profile a uthor of ‘1984’, George Orwell once famously described Jura as highly un-get-at-able, the very quality which attracted him in the first place and the reason he chose the island for a retreat in which to write his most famous novel. Today, the island is still difficult to reach for those in a hurry as it has no airport and travellers must rely on the traditional ferry. But once the journey Get a Taste for has been completed, Jura rewards its visitors with a wonderful welcome and a relaxing pace of life. Today the population is a scant 200, but in the past isLand LiFE it was many times that. caption Archaeological finds suggests caption caption caption caption that the island was inhabited caption caption as early as Mesolithic caption caption times (8,000BC), and there are significant historic WITH a ReD DeeR POPULaTIOn THaT OUTnUMBeRS HUManS 10 TO 1, THe ISLanD Of JURa HaS a CHaRaCTeR aS UnIqUe aS ITS WHISkY. remains from then, through Neolithic, Bronze and Iron pull, particularly in a culture where landownership was beyond the history records that 1775 during the American Revolution bound for Canada and other ages showing continuity of means of all but a very few. one Laird archibald Diurachs are known to have shipped habitation ever since. It was only in with the MacDonalds as they were in their throngs. Highland historian North Carolina became the Campbell built the away during the famine era between distillery in the much more recent times, in the 14th pushed out by the Campbells, or James Hunter wrote about the “Dance primary home of ‘Diurachs’ 1830 and 1840. and 15th centuries that population were forcibly removed to the Borders Called America” in which Islanders between the years 1739-55 and Many more sons of Jura were began to decline. area of Scotland, a common ruse emigrated to North Carolina, Georgia there are still more descendants early 1800s near a lost in the two World Wars, the It began with the fall of the ruling of the Scottish Crown. While this Virginia and Eastern Canada. Their of islanders in that State, than cave where illegal island contributed many soldiers to distilling had been ‘Lords of the Isles’, coupled with what displacement lasted through the 1600s, reasons would have been no different anywhere else in the world. North such great regiments as the Argyll we now know was a period of poor it was the sound of opportunity that than modern expats - better weather, Carolina census statistics note that & Sutherland Highlanders. Today, climate conditions. Jura was hit by islanders woke up to in the 1700s. better land, better pay and better and over 2 million people residing carried on possibly however, things are better and the political, climatic and agricultural turmoil. Many islanders moved north As stories of plenty came across the ocean from America, islanders moved cheaper food. The opportunity to own their own land was an unbearable there claim Scottish descent. An emigrant ship departed in from the 1600s. full-time resident population of the island is around 185. 46 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 47

isle of Jura Profile the isle of Jura distillery History records that one Laird Archibald Campbell built Jura distillery in the early 1800s near a cave where illegal distilling had been carried out, possibly from the 1600s. The whisky produced then was peaty and characteristic of the typical island style – not at all like the present day product. The distillery was let out to various people over the years, with varying degrees of success. It was leased to James Ferguson in 1875 and rebuilt in 1884, at which point it was producing 65,000 gallons per year. However, in the early 1900s the Fergusons were in dispute with the then Laird Colin Campbell and decided to quit the Jura distillery, dismantling and selling the machinery, which they had installed. The roofs were later removed to avoid paying rates and the distillery became a ruin. It seemed as if whisky making on Jura had come to a permanent end. Fortunately in the 1950s, Robin Fletcher, owner of Ardlussa Estate, and Riley-Smith, the owner of Jura House and Ardfin Estate, got together to see how they could solve a impending jobs crisis on the island. Their idea was to reopen the distillery to see if new people could be attracted to Jura. They were joined by farmer, distiller and architect Delme’ Evans. Eventually they rose financial backing, mostly from Scottish and Newcastle Breweries, ordered malt which was only lightly peated.” and rebuilt the distillery. The new distillery was opened on April 26th 1963 It was Delme’-Evans who designed and built the new and employed a quarter of the island’s distillery on the site of the original ruins. He said of his male workforce. plans “My primary aim was to construct an economic The Jura distillery has expanded since, but still distillery within the space available. Everything had occupies the same site, draws its water from the to be simple and fall to hand. You could not afford to same natural source and remains the only whisky complicate things in so remote a location. I also had to producer on the island. Much love, care and skill go play mother to the large number of incomers on an island into the making of the Isle of Jura Single Malt with without any policemen - some Saturday nights became every bottle capturing the true spirit and flavour quite interesting!” of the island itself. Unlike some of its heavier Islay Everything had to be designed in such a way that the cousins, Isle of Jura is a lightly peated, smooth, new Jura malt could be produced. “It was our intention to elegant malt. produce a Highland-type malt differing from the typically The secret of its taste starts with the water, peaty stuff last produced in 1900. I therefore designed the pure Bhaille Mharghaidh spring which feeds the the stills to give spirit of a Highland character, and we distillery. The tall elegant stills at Jura allow only the lightest and finest fractions of distillation to progress into The easy life the malt. But distillation is only part of the story. No bottle would be complete without the whisky’s quiet maturation on the beachfront at Craighouse. “george orwell once Through at least 10 years of changing seasons, Isle of Jura matures, shaped by the soft sea breezes and famously described Jura damp temperate micro-climate, into the refined malt as highly un-get-at-able, which finally emerges. the very quality which The result is a unique Single Malt which truly represents its island’s land, water, climate attracted him in the first and people. place, and the reason Today Jura forms part of the Whyte and he chose the island for a Mackay stable and has a somewhat sweet flavour, reminiscent of Speyside malts, while its slight tang of retreat in which to write salt hints at its island origins. his most famous novel” Isle of Jura is bottled at 10, 16 and 21 years old while a special vatted bottling entitled “Superstition” complements the range. 48 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 49

Whisky & Cigar Pairings Xxxxxxxxx Pairing LiFE’s LuXuriEs BY feLIx HaRTMann Whisky & Cigars W hisky and Cigars: Pairing Life’s Luxuries. Like two peas in a pod of the luxury world, cigars and whisky can often be found together. When enjoyed in harmony cigars and whisky combine to create an assult on the senses. Famed whisky afficiando Mark Twain once said “I smoke in moderation. Only one cigar at a time.” Here, Felix Hartmann chooses three superlative single malts and pairs them with cigars from the humidor of Casa Habanos. Twain would most certainly approve. the new montecristo open Line Junior Laphroaig 18 years Due to its sweet smokiness, black pepper and earthy nutty The new bottling of the 18 year notes, Laphroaig goes perfectly with my chosen Cigar, the new old Islay Malt is matured in ‘first Montecristo Open Line Junior. This New Montecristo is not as fill’ American Oak Barrels. The strong as the classic line and therefore goes well with the softer nose is sweet and balanced with Laphroaig. The Junior is 110mm long and its Ring Size is 38. The honeyed peat smoke and salty strong earthy aromas go very well with the malt and after a 5 freshness. The palate opens minute burn spiciness develops. This with more honey, black pepper, pure pleasure lasts for approximately bitter chocolate and oaky and 30 minutes. nutty notes. Cohiba siglo vi highland Park 18 years This Whisky deserves a glorious and prestigious Cigar. Nothing Experts have called this malt ‘the best would match better than a Cohiba Siglo VI. The format of this triple spirit’ in the World and for me it truly fermented long filler is called ‘canonaza’ and has a ring size of 52. The describes this rich, dark smokey malt Cigar has a spicy and rich body with a perfect draw unveiling vanilla from the far north Orkney Island. and cedar-coffee aromas. A limited release of the Cigar is available The golden and bright dram has a only for a short time and called ‘Gran Reserva 2003’. The Tobacco is beautiful nose of smoke and wood 5 years old and is one of the best I leading to a palate full of rich honeyed have ever smoked. Only 5000 Cases chocolate with hints of cinnamon and of each 15 Cigars were produced. heather-honey. the vegas robaina ‘Clasicos’ isle of Jura, superstition The Vegas Robaina ‘Clasicos’ is a ‘Cervantes/Londsdale’ – format. This This Malt is a tribute to the superstitious Medium to full-bodied cigar due has a smaller ring size of 42 but is people of the Isle of Jura and their decades stronger in its sensation. The elegant puro will capture your attention old belief that peat must be cut before May… from the first draw to the last. Well-balanced aromas of dark roasted Whereas the nose is phenolic with nuances coffee and pepper stand in harmony with creamy smooth cocao! of honey, the palate is dramatically strong with peat, smoke, spice and pine. Due to its long aftertaste, I recommend a full bodied Cigar that can stand up against the dominant yet complex aromas of the Isle of Jura. 50 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 51

Events Events EvEnts WHaT’S Been HaPPenInG In THe WORLD Of WHISkY i f you’re a fan of a good dram, there’s never been Events Planned over the next three months a better opportunity than we’ve got a full programme of fascinating and entertaining events planned for the rest of right now. MMI has created the year. to give you a taste of what’s to come, here’s the latest schedule: a rolling programme of events featuring some of the best Month event Description speakers and whisky experts ever January Burns Supper annual Burns Dinner at emirates Golf Club to appear in Dubai. They will share nations Cup Royal Salute vIP dinner with the Duke argyll their skill and expertise to afford february Part Des anges a unique tasting with Thierry Ricard you greater insight into the dram Whisky & Cigars Pairing session at Casa La Habanos in your hand. Events are as varied with Sasha aleksandar as the speakers themselves. We’ve March Taste of Dubai Dubai first ‘Whisky festival brought in Master Distillers, Master The Macallan Brand Director fine & rare collection David Cox Blenders and industry experts for Heaven Hill vIP Tasting with Henry Joe from Heaven Hill specialist pairing dinners, tutored tastings and sampling sessions. If for more information on any of the above please email singlemalt@mmi.ae you’d like an invitation to any of the forthcoming events, make sure you’re registered with the Whisky Club. For more information on other events and activities taking place across Dubai as well as ideas on things to see and do please visit www.mmidubai.com 52 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 53

iCh iddunts EnF o glenfiddich 50Yo Launch gL rY YEar C EvEJust 50 bottles of our g lenfiddich wil l be released a yea r over the ly rare and preciou s whisky Unfortunately, for distillers the art of creating an only fifty bottles wi year over the next de point the full qu ll be released every cade at which ota will have been if you’re one of the extraordinari realised. therefore ears making it an incredibly mature malt is not to pull the cork few who may choose next 10 y n as simple as filling a cask and on this piece of liquid history, you ca waiting a few decades before e your bottle always try and replac bottling! Of those casks that ! and for those over the following years live in the present L have been patiently left to age, who do decide to e Clos have secured for their there are few that will actually , acclaimed and not in the future Murray excitedly whisky authority Jim customers one of the most make it to the 50 year stage precious new bottlings to intact. This is because there describes what yo u can expect to ng the first dram… be released this year in the are few spirits that can handle discover upon pouri shape of The Glenfiddich 50 Year the powerful character of the g 50 years, and yet Old. Furthering their reputation as oak for such a length of time. nose: “we are talkin the regions leading luxury single malt Only the finest malt spirit will be we are still talking fresh barley, freshly ney. On the nose at retailer, Le Clos will have only one able to work in harmony with its peeled grape and ho n, this is nectar…” of these precious bottles to offer to carefully selected cask for such least, this is perfectio whisky aficionados travelling through a long period. Every single cask ry: silky barley with Dubai International Airport. of the thousands maturing in taste: “a silky delive aple syrup. The Glenfiddich are recognised the warehouses throughout Scotland silky watered down m middle ground is fi lled with soft, grassy world over as the most successful has its own personality and it distant st hint of a distiller of single malts. This takes a very well trained nose and barley and the vague reputation is garnered primarily palate to know the point at which smoke s pice” through the immense selling power the whisky is ready for bottling. g with the very finish: “ long, long, lon of their 12 Year Old expression - the Glenfiddich’s Malt Master David ething most faintest snatch of som greatest selling single malt of all. Stewart recently stepped down istant puff of peat delicately smoked: a d side While a staggering 6 million bottles after 47 years with the company reek carried off on the persistent Spey are sold annually, one for every malts become more commonplace, but not before he shaped his final ropping t hrough the winds, then vanilla, d very last person in Scotland; the quality of there wasn’t the inkling 25 years ago masterpiece. His 50 Year Old gem of sweetness until the “glenfiddich gears this malt and the entire Glenfiddich that the market for 40 and 50 year has been created from two casks traces are chalky d ry” are recognised portfolio is widely regarded as being old single malts would generate the laid down in warehouse no.8 at lf a mark from of the highest quality. While the excitement and price tags seen today. the distillery site in Dufftown, score: 97/100, only ha of the year! the world over being world whisky Speyside distillers are recognised for It is only since the early 1990’s that Speyside. The contents of each their healthy collection of mature malt whisky’s value was intrinsically were then married together in f Glenfiddich has stocks, it is very rarely that they release something of the nature of five as the most linked to its age; previously it wasn’t even that common to list an age an American oak barrel for six months to allow for the unique in short: this release o been more widely lau ded by critics than decades old malt. successful statement on the bottle. However characteristics of each cask to any other super matur times. Look out for th e whisky of recent e understated, silver distiller of Creating something of this maturity all distillers will now be taking integrate and become completely e you pass through isn’t without risk and there is many notice of the upward trend for super harmonious. adorned bottle next tim t to see it Dubai Le Clos. We will expec single malts” time for Christmas, an old vintage cask that will never premium malts and will be carefully There are few industries that retain International airport in see the light of day. While future considering holding back a few extra staff not only for decades but also bottle available, it generations may find that super aged casks. through the generations. However although with only one new Year! might not be there by 54 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 55

glenfiddich 50Yo Launch to - up to 50 years in this instance - to produce the perfect whisky. The Glenfiddich 50 Year Old is the pinnacle of our whisky-making excellence and epitomises my great-great grandfather’s vision of creating the ‘very best dram in the valley’.” There’s no doubt that by creating only 500 bottles of the 50 Year Old, Glenfiddich are going to create quite a stir amongst collectors and drinkers the whisky business is still one “there’s no doubt of the finest malts. The beauty of the that by creating in which sons follow in their father’s simple but elegant presentation case footsteps, learning the trade from a will draw in even those who may be young age before passing on their only 500 bottles new to rare malts. Every bottle of knowledge and experience to the next generation. Chairman of Glenfiddich, of the 50 Year Glenfiddich 50 Year Old comes with a book that includes a numbered Peter Gordon, is great-great-grandson old, glenfiddich certificate, hand-signed by both Charles of the company founder, William are going to Gordon, Life President of William Grant create quite a stir Grant who built the distillery in 1886. & Sons and the craftsmen whose stories Gordon comments that even after over feature in the book. Owners are also a century of distilling the vision hasn’t amongst collectors invited to register their ownership of changed. “Nothing is more important than producing the world’s best whisky. and drinkers of the the Glenfiddich 50 Year Old by sending their certificate to the distillery for it to We’re happy to wait as long as we need finest malts” be signed by Peter Gordon. 56 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 57

robert hicks master distiller, Laphroaig How did you get into the whisky Here I am 46 years later. I’m still from the special barrels we use to mature we use and the fact that the distillery and itself and the amount of peat flavour on and nut flavours come through, these industry? What attracted you to it looking for that better job and still it, together with a trace of saltiness from maturation warehouses are only metres this malt is much higher. flavours, or finish, then stays in the mouth originally, and what inspires you now? learning about whisky. What inspires the years of maturation in our warehouses from the ocean. Take any one of those and can be savoured for a very long time. I was looking for work when I was 19 me, what gets me into work each day, that are only metres from the ocean. factors away and we couldn’t produce You describe Laphroaig as “the World’s and, in 1964, I was offered the job as a is trying to put together new flavours Laphroaig. most richly flavoured Scotch whisky.” Is Laphroaig unique in stock clerk in a local whisky company. that will please and excite our many What has the greatest influence on What flavours can a drinker expect? using Quarter Casks? I only took it earn some money until I Laphroaig fans. the flavours in Laphroaig – distillery How do you decide on the amount of, When a consumer tastes Laphroiag for Yes, and in fact I actually had to reinvent found something I really wanted to do. location, the stills themselves, the casks and how do you control the peatiness the first time the flavours can sometimes them. If you go back in history 2 or 300 Luck now took a part as, after 6 Laphroaig is a very highly regarded you use to mature the whisky in? of Laphroaig? be a bit overwhelming, there’s so much hundred years ago this was the size of months working as a clerk, the master whisky among connoisseurs, That’s the million dollar question and The amount is decided by the smell of going on. There is a mix of flavours that cask that was used by smugglers and was blender asked me if I wanted to learn especially ‘peat lovers’. How would you if I knew exactly what it is I’d be a the newly distilled spirit, from this I can starts when you smell it, first will be the used in the industry until the late 50’s, how to nose whisky. I quickly found out characterise it? millionaire! Actually, it’s a mix of many tell whether the correct amount of peat smokey peat smell that’s followed by but then fell out of use. I remembered that I wasn’t just to learn about nosing, To most people it’s possibly the heaviest things. Starting with the peat from our flavours, called phenols, are present. sweeter fruitier flavours, but it’s when them from my early days and when I but all aspects of the industry and for the peated Islay Single Scotch Malt Whisky own peat bog that we use to dry the Currently we’re using a minimum of 50 it’s tasted that the real “peat reek”, as it’s was asked to produce a new style of next 6 years, I learned not only about there is, but really it’s a combination of barley, the water from our own loch parts per million by analysis of phenols called, fills the sides of the mouth with Laphroaig I decided that this size of cask the flavours of whisky, but about all the many flavours not just the intense peat that’s coloured brown from the peat, the and that is constantly checked by analysis. a slightly antiseptic iodine flavour that’s would compliment Laphroaig’s intense other aspects of whisky production from flavour. There’s a creamy sweetness that size and shape of the stills, the special The unique thing about Laphroaig is that characteristic of Laphroaig. Once past this flavour. None were available, so I got our distilling to marketing. enhances the spicy fruitiness that comes ex-Maker’s Mark bourbon casks that only we malt a lot of the barley at the distillery massive taste then all the creamier fruit cooperage to make them for me using 58 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 59

Join us! robert hicks master distiller, Laphroaig Are you a whisky enthusiast looking for a great deal? Join the Single Malts Society now! Sign up to the Single Malt Society and find out about whisky events and exclusive offers throughout the UAE. For more information log on to our website www.mmidubai.com Single fresh ex-American barrel staves. The result is that they give an extra dimension to Laphroaig’s fundamental flavour giving it much creamier aroma without covering the more intense peat flavour. They give a very soft, sweet smell that makes you think that when tasted it will be soft and creamy, but the opposite is actually true and the intense unique flavour burst through. coast of Scotland and gives the whisky a unique flavour that our whisky doesn’t get if it’s matured on the mainland of Scotland. Whether this is due to it being a small low lying island or, more likely it’s the winter storms that blow in all the way from America over the Atlantic Ocean. While these storms are raging the winds blow salt laden air all over the island and this has an affect the whisky maturing on the island. It could also be the salt air that become a Friend Become a friend of Laphroaig, claim your free square foot of Islay and join over 200,000 Laphroaig lovers from around the world. Meet us and them on their private web site www.laphroaig.com/friends malts Society bEnEFits Can you give us an insight into the lands on the peat bogs and, as the peat different ages and bottlings? is produced by nature over 10,000 years, We bottle ¼ Cask, 10yo, 10yo Cask has an effect on the flavours that we get Strength, 18yo and 25yo every year. when we burn it to dry our barley. Our 15yo has now been replaced by What’s beyond doubt is that Islay • Subscription to our Quarterly malt magazine the 18yo, and all other bottlings are all produces a unique style and flavour of • Access to the most exclusive malt club in the Middle East specials that are bottled only once or whisky that’s matchless and cannot be • Access to monthly malt experiences such malt dinners and cigar evenings twice in a lifetime and typically in very replicated anywhere else. As a general rule I would say that the limited numbers e.g. the 40yo was only first taste should always be Laphroaig • 10% discount on all single malts at MMI, Spinney’s & OUA bottled once and the 27yo has only been If you had to choose one bottling to 10 Years Old as this is the one we made • Advance notice of special whisky releases and special deals offered bottled twice. We do occasionally use introduce a novice to the delights of our name with over the past 100 years vintages on labels, but this is when I’ve Laphroaig, which would it be? and it’s the one that nearly everyone by the whisky companies discovered some special casks that I feel When I’ve been asked this question at likes. Personally, I like to drink it with a • Win an exclusive trip to Scotland are extraordinary and deserve to be called seminars and events all over the world touch of water to allow all the flavours a vintage. I first ask the person what type of to become apparent, but if you want to • Free bottle of whisky when you recommend a friend to the malt food they like. From this I can usually drink it without water or with water and society to value of 250AED How does your Islay location affect the gauge whether it’s a strongly flavoured ice, the main thing is that you should nature of your whisky? Laphroaig they would like or one that’s a enjoy it nomatter what anyone else Islay is a very small island of the west bit gentler. tells you. 60 SINGLE MALTS Exclusively reserved for all Red Card holders only SINGLE MALTS 61

nose of the month Competition nosE oF thE month Win! an exclusive game of golf for 2 people at the address montgomerie dubai, followed by we have picked some of the outstanding bottlings from islay and dinner at nineteen restaurant the islands and now you can share the experience. all the single for your chance to win, email your name, mobile number and subject heading ‘Golf Competition’ Closing date is 18th March 2010. Winner will be contacted by email malts featured here are now in stock exclusively at MMi outlets across the city. why not pick up a bottle, pour a glass and see if you agree with our tasting notes? slainte! Port Charlotte PC8 Laphroaig 10 year old isle of Jura 10 year old Donald Maclellan regional sales robert hicks Master Blender richard Paterson Master Blender isle of Manager for the Middle east & asia laphroaig, ardmore & teachers Jura, Dalmore & whyte & Mackay The history and culture of an Islay in the Pronounced ‘‘La froyg‘‘, it is best savoured The Isle of Jura can be found off the palm of your hand. It arouses feelings of neat, or with a little cool water to release west coast of Scotland. Tall stills and family and friends who, like the distillery, the pungent, earthy aroma of blue peat lightly peated barley combine to make Sponsored by have shown a life that can overcome smoke, the sweet nuttiness of the barley a sophisticated single malt whisky that many hurdles and remain untouched by and the delicate heathery perfume of expresses the uniqueness of the island. the ever changing seasons of life. The Islay’s streams. ABV 43% 75cl. Exclusively The elegant tones and fruity oiliness peaty flavour is rich and vibrant reaching available at all MMI, Spinney’s & OUA with a hint of smoke earned it a bronze deep onto the palate accompanied by retail outlets. award at the International Wine and dark warm molasses with hints of dates Spirits competition. Exclusively available and bitter chocolate. ABV 61% 70cl. at all MMI, Spinney’s & OUA retail Exclusively available at all MMI, Spinney’s outlets. & OUA retail outlets. 62 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 63

From Citrus to Liquorice Xxxxxxxxx Dwayne Cheer executive Sous Chef The address From Citrus to LiQuoriCE i first got involved in tasting whisky quite some years ago. Back then the only match I could come up with was coke! A lot of time has passed since then and it was around three years ago that I was introduced to whisky and food pairings, having been challenged to create a special dinner by John Gillespie of MMI fame. The brief was to taste a selection of whisky samples and deliver a menu. freshly cooked soft shell crab, the match Great I thought free whisky… was made in heaven in my mind, until seared Langoustines The seriousness of the task ahead sunk now my theory is still untested. in when John announced the match to the From Scotland to Japan, the whiskies with mango salad food was to be presented to none other vary so much. Within these two lands the langoustines work well with a than Colin Scott, Master Blender for Chivas options to pair food are endless; all you light bodied whisky similar to the Regal and the final pairing would be with need is an open mind and a nip of whisky Macallion 21. here is a simple recipe the 18 year old, arguably one of the finest to get the creative juices flowing! you can do at home. blended whiskies in the world. In the restaurant we make a stock from • 4 persons Back then my palate was very new to the shells, clarify it, take half in which we • 1kg langoustines [12piece] peeled this and I found it quite difficult to pair then add gelatine and a few drops of 21yr • 1 large Mango the food. Inevitably the menu reflected to make the jelly which we dice and put • 1 large tomato [blanched, peeled, this by being, I would say looking back, through the salad. de-seeded and diced] ‘predictable’: With salmon for a starter, We then take the other half and add an • 1 large cucumber [diced, followed by beef with smoked mash emulsifier called lecite, blend until we get slated and rinsed] and finished with a pear and chocolate a langoustine ‘air’ which we garnish the • 2 shallots [diced] dessert. However, the event was a success plate with. • a pinch Chervil chopped and my first whisky pairing was done. Mix all the ingredients of the salad • a squeeze of Lime juice Fast forward three years and my together and season. • a drop of Olive oil whole palate has changed and warmed Heat a non stick pan and add a little • Mixed cress for garnish to the different nuances and characters oil. Place the langoustines with the shell of each whisky. I can now smell the side down until they start to colour, wood, the citrus, the earth and the then add a knob of butter and this will The ammonia smell that comes from liquorice in the bottle. transform the shellfish to a beautiful cooking shellfish matches with the Recently I tried a 17yr Suntory whisky buttery golden colour and will bring the whisky perfectly, but make sure you and was asked, what did I think would best out of the shellfish. use a quality aged whisky and not a full match? For me it was screaming for soft Place the salad on the plate and bodied example or you will overpower the shell crab. With this delicate Japanese immediately add the langoustine, garnish delicate flavours of the shellfish instead of whisky and the light ammonia from with chervil and serve. highlighting them. 64 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 65 PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY

glenfiddich barrel art the role that time and cask play in Out of the shaping the whisky within. Every year counts in the process – a barrel laid down in 1978 produces a very different tasting whisky to a barrel laid down in 1990. To celebrate the art of the whisky barrel, Glenfiddich inaugurated ‘Barrel Art’ in 2007, with an exhibition that invited four award winning designers from the fields of fashion, music, interiors and books to create a piece of art from a Glenfiddich whisky barrel. They took either the year the cask was laid down or the passing of time as their inspiration. Woods 2007 In this first year, the designers were iconic album designer Storm Thorgeson, fashion tailor Nick Hart, book designer David Pearson and Glasgow graphic design duo Timorous Beasties – Alistair McAuley and Paul Simmons. Each was at the pinnacle of their respective fields, and all were chosen for the unique insight their disparate backgrounds would bring to the project. Nick Hart “The inspiration for my work is drawn from the ancient fable gelnfiDDich’s Barrel art PrograM is a unique celeBration of the ‘angel’s share’. The theme of the year - 1977 - is borne out of the cask’s central role in Making great whisky. i t is difficult to underestimate the and volatile elements, creates character whisky and to stand on the cooperage, a team of skilled importance of wood in whisky. and infuses the finished dram with a threshold of a bond, gazing at the craftsmen and apprentices working The time a whisky spends in sense of history and origin. The cask serried ranks of casks, breathing exclusively to produce and maintain cask is so important it has been both protects its precious charge from in the dusty air, redolent of oak, the supply of premium quality enshrined in law and no spirit can be the elements while at the same time whisky and age, is to gain a glimpse casks essential to the production called scotch whisky unless it has spent allowing them access to impart the into the pivotal role of the cask in of the finished single malt. Their a minimum of three years maturing, in subtle nuances of geography. As a cask the finished glass. And it was this skill is incarnate in every cask, their a cask, in Scotland. Often, perfection breathes and slumbers in the quiet relationship that Glenfiddich set out influence and passion in takes many, many years longer. fastness of a bond, so the whisky it to celebrate with their Barrel every dram. The influence of the cask is profound. contains matures, shrinks in volume and Art series. This, then, is the inspiration for It imparts flavour, imbues the whisky improves immensely. Glenfiddich is the only Highland the Barrel Art series, an annual with colour, ameliorates the more harsh Wood is inextricably linked with distillery to maintain its own program of commissions to reflect 66 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 67

glenfiddich barrel art through the accompanying soundtrack barrel has having clear ‘jobs’ to do, for of Talking Heads which was so iconic at a clearly defined amount of time. By the time.” etching or sandblasting words onto Storm Thorgerson comments, “What we carefully arranged cask pieces, I hope like to call ‘the lotus flower’ is a sculpture to acknowledge the fine work each do in an approximate flower shape made in bring various Glenfiddich variants to entirely of barrel parts. We used all the our glasses, hipflasks and quiachs.” barrel elements and made a flower - an appropriate metaphor for the maturing of 2009 whisky - each petal marks a further year of This year, it was the Russians’ turn, aging as the whisky ‘blossoms’.” and the theme was to express the core David Pearson focuses on font, “My philosophy of Glenfiddich, that ‘Every work is predominantly typographic, Year Counts’. using a limited colour palette. My chosen Glenfiddich selected 12 famous year, 1989, is represented in an abstract, representatives of music, cinema, art, symbolic way, portraying the spirit of the fashion, design and journalism for the time - the collective human spirit that original project, and asked each of them was prominent in the historic events of to choose a barrel from a year that had that year. I have created a typographic special significance for them. Following representation of Schiller’s ‘Ode to Joy’, the project invitation, nine barrels that the vocal section at the end of Beethoven’s had held that precious single malt Ninth Symphony. It includes the lyrics whisky assumed a second life. ‘Be embraced, you millions! This kiss for Next, these nine barrels were specially delivered from the very heart of Scotland, having previously carefully kept whisky during 12, 15, 18, 21 and 30 years. Filled with participants’ memories of 1979, 1988, 1991, 1994 and 1997 years and transformed by their creative genius, they became art objects and were presented at the exhibition. Among the many a daY is a luminaries, artists and celebrities invited to participate were singers sKEtCh Andrey Makarevich and Peter Nalitch, mixologist a YEar is a Alexander Kan, film director Alexey German sCuLPturE Jr, and fashion designer Dmitri Loginov. Each brought a uniquely personal interpretation of the events unfolding the entire world!’. To add a more personal design studio johnson banks in Russia and in their element, I worked entirely in enamel paint to create a series of artworks own lives in the year in - the substance used to paint many of my illustrating the length of time which their chosen cask Subbuteo players in the same year.” it takes for their single malt was first filled. Artworks Timorous Beasties barrel design is whiskies to mature in the barrel. ranged from the intimate representative of the synergy and conflict johnson banks looked to the to the grandiose, and between nature and technology. The straight, function of each part of the the resulting exhibition rigid lines represent the advancement of barrel to make a series of sculptures and pursuing a few blind alleys, I finally caused a sensation amongst the technology that was so prominent in 1992, based on the five differently aged got an idea that we really felt worked. Russian literati. while the flowers sprouting from within Glenfiddich whiskies. The results went I’d been looking for a way to construct The event unfolded at the Winzavod portray the organic, ever present power on show initially in Glasgow. Founder designs and art based on whisky barrels modern art space near central Moscow, of nature. Michael Johnson explained just how that somehow communicates the truly and attracted the cream of Russian intense the process was. vast amount of time the alcohol spends celebrities, aficionados and whisky 2008 “After months of research, distillery in cast (between twelve and thirty enthusiasts over the course of a week. In the second year of the program, the trips, making test sculptures in years). I had a breakthrough when I The exhibits were then sent on tour as Glenfiddich distillery in Scotland approached polyboard, deconstructing real barrels began to think of the elements of the part of a traveling exhibition. 68 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 69

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Cocktail Cocktail recipes Win! rECiPEs an Exclusive set of 4 dalmore tasting glasses Darshana, who has over 10 years email your name, mobile number and subject heading experience in the bar industry is well Darshana gallage – BeveRaGe ManaGeR aDDReSS The Dalmore Competition to singlemalt@mmi.ae known to enjoy a good single malt himself. His tipple of choice would be HOTeL DOWnTOWn DUBaI closing date is 16th march 2010, winner will be contacted by email the Macallan fine Oak 12 years. Whisky The Julep Manhattan "The Manhattan was traditionally a rye drink, and According to legend the Mint Julep first made print in a book by John Davis in 1803, described as being a “dram of spirituous liquor that has mint in it, taken by Virginians in the morning.” was invented in NYC by man named ‘Black who kept However most historians agree the drink was a place ten doors below Huston Street Broadway engineered much earlier, perhaps in the in the 1860's. Until fairly recently, the most popular early 1700’s. story of its origin said that the drink was created in According to historians, long ago there November 1874 at The New York City’s Manhattan was an Arabic drink called juleb which was a Club. Jenny Jerome, an American who married Lord concoction of water and fragrant rose petals. Randolph Churchill commissioned the drink for a Some people believe that when this drink made banquet in New York City at the Manhattan Club. The its way across Europe the more readily available story goes that Lady Churchill had returned to New mint leaves were added instead, thus the York to host the party. However, David Wondrich has Mint Julep. pointed out that the banquet in question was held in The classic Mint Julep of today also adds November 1874, when Lady C was otherwise engaged powerful alcohol into the equation and was in England, giving birth to Winston. Whoever really reportedly enjoyed primarily by Northeastern got to enjoy The Manhattan that night, they were first farmers in the morning before they set out to in a long line! tend the crops. Some have even suggested that it was the cultural equivalent to today’s ingredients: morning coffee. • 50ml Macallan Fine Oak 12years • 25ml Sweet Vermouth ingredients: • dash bitters • 50ml Glenrothes Select Reserve • 10ml (2 barspoons) sugar syrup • Glass – chilled cocktail • 6 mint leaves • Garnish – cocktail cherry & orange zest • Glass – 10 oz glass • Garnish – large mint sprig method Stir ingredients for 20 secs in Boston glass and strain method into cocktail glass lightly press Glenrothes Select Reserve, sugar and mint in bottom of glass for 15 secs, fill with crushed ice and churn for 10 secs, top with crushed ice and mint sprig. 72 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 73

ask the Expert Xxxxxxxxx asK thE EXPErt we asked you to send you questions to our whisky evangelist, Fraser Jones. here we’ve picked out a selection of your islay centric queries What is peat and how does I’ve never got on with peaty Islay How did there come to be it flavour Islay whiskies? whiskies but will be visiting there so many distillers on Islay? Islay is globally famed for its smoke this summer. Is there an unpeated When studying a map of Scotland, it’s fuelled, peaty whiskies. The likes of dram I can enjoy to blend in with apparent that Islay houses a curiously Bowmore, Laphroaig and Ardbeg are the locals? large cluster of distilleries for an island real flag carriers for the style, although For a tiny island that that is most well of its size and population. Bear in whisky aficionados would point out that known for its peaty whiskies, there mind that since the early 1800s there they each have a character of their is actually a surprising divergence in have been numerous closures, so the own right. available styles. eight distillers still in operation today Peat is a shallow soil layer consisting Even from just one distiller, is comparatively few. In the days when of plant life that has mouldered over Bruichladdich, you can find three distillers notoriously avoided the tax thousands of years. It is dug up and different styled malts. Their signature man, Islay was considered a very used as kiln fuel in the drying of expressions under the Bruichladdich safe place to hide away. Indeed, even green malts, thereby imparting varying label are barely peated at all and due though there was customs and excise degrees of “peatiness”. to the vast number of casks they utilise knowledge of illegal distilling, such was in the aging process they have many the fear of the island’s “wild barbarous Which is the peatiest whisky different personalities. Port Charlotte people” that the ‘Gauger’ rarely stepped in the world? is a closed distillery currently being foot on the island. Ardbeg and Bruichladdich have both resurrecting and this medium peated recently released a super peated malt is in homage to the traditional expression. The level of peat in a PC style. As mentioned, Octomore whisky can be measured in “phenols” is Bruichladdich’s off the scale peat and to give a degree of context it’s monster and shows what is possible at worth noting that a typical Laphroaig the extreme end of the scale! Ten Year Old comes in at around 40 Also look out Ardbeg’s Blasda, ppm (phenols per million). another Islay malt that bucks the trend. Compare that to Ardbeg’s “Supernova” which is peated to 100 ppm and Bruichladdich’s “Octomore” if you Have any questions Please email at 141 ppm and you’ll understand just fRaseR jones at singlemalt@mmi.ae how intense these malts are! 74 SINGLE MALTS SINGLE MALTS 75

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Single Malt Issue 2

by ZIGGY29 on May 09, 2010

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Single Malt Issue 2 Document Transcript