`The Cook's Bible' by `Cook's Illustrated' founder and editor in chief, Christopher Kimball is a terrific culinary read, based on the unusual collection of subjects and opinions on a truly wide range of culinary topics. In many ways, the book reads very much like any one of a dozen `Cooks Illustrated' cookbooks, assembled from related articles from their magazine. The main difference is that the focus here is much more on equipment and techniques than on specific recipes.
One has to wonder what entitles the author to call this a `Bible'. What comes to mind is that this is a complete source of informantion and it's advice is simply beyond question. Unfortunately, the charm and interest one has in this book has nothing to do with either completeness or authoritativeness. While it is accurate on many, many things, it's word is not `gospel'!
The interest in reading this book comes mostly from the charm, wit, and good humor of the author's writing. I get the sense of reading a culinary Garrison Keillor in very much the same way I get that sense when I read James Peterson's books or even Julia Child's early books. You don't get the same bald humor that you see in Alton Brown's books, but the details of the culinary advice is as good or better than Alton Brown's recipes; however, Kimball's advice on cooking equipment is not as good as in Alton Brown's `Gear for Your Kitchen'. This is not because Brown's insights are deeper, it's because he focuses on laying out what it is you should do to evaluate what works best for you in the world of kitchen gear, and deals in general principles rather than on a magazine staff's notions of whats good and what's not. For example, while Kimball recommends Wustoff knives over all other makes, a recent `Consumer's Report' article rates Henkels knives above all others, including Wustoff. Now I am certain `Cook's Illustrated' has a better handle on what makes a good chef's knive, but this shows how different people see things differently. Another weakness of Kimball's equipment evaluations is that there is always the risk that one or more models on his evaluations will be discontinued.
One reason I enjoy reading Kimball so much, both in this book and in his `Cooks Illustrated' editorial pages is that it is such great fun to disagree with him on some points. For example, his very first sentence in the introduction states that there is little in common between gourmet cooking and home cooking (and Kimball's aim is to talk about home cooking). I argue that there is less difference between my cooking and that of Tom Colicchio and Alfred Portale than there is between the average weekend golfer and Tiger Woods. I use the same techniques, the same equipment, and very nearly the same quality of ingredients. Acting on Kimball's premise can lead to major mistakes, such as what I saw in the new Culinary Institute of America book on `Breakfasts and Brunches' where scrambled eggs and omelets are pictured as being only small variations on the same technique. Kimball, on the other hand, correctly treats omelets and scrambled eggs as two different techniques, even thought they start with virtually identical ingredients.
Like James Peterson, Kimball has a very commonsensical approach to things, which means he is much more inclined to see things for what they are. My favorite example is his take on the microwave. While it is certainly fast for certain jobs, this speed is actually a liability when it comes to many other jobs, as it means the margin between good results and a disaster is that much smaller. And, it is a technique which is highly variable by the amount of food put into the box. When one potato can take 8 minutes, two potatoes can take 15. This would not be true in a conventional oven or in boiling water. Another problem with the microwave is that checking on things and adding ingredients is a real nuisance, especially when the cooking vessel gets very hot. This down to earth approach will also reveal, now and then, some very counterintuitive facts about cooking methods. I know it is very hard to believe this, but Kimball explains, with practically no Alton Brown style handwaving, how and why a braised piece of meat (cooked for a long time half covered with liquid), will actually come out dryer than with some other methods if the cooking is done at too high a temperature.
Next to the extremely commonsensical approach to things, I really like Kimball's diagrams on how to do certain tasks. They are a model of how to effectively picture a procedure so the reader will understand what it is you are telling them.
Looking at the Table of Contents for this book reveals a really unusual collection of subjects. While there are recipes aplenty, the real focus is on general techniques and how to put them to best use. Several chapters really put a lie to the `home cooking' versus `gourmet cooking' difference, if one equates `gourmet' cooking with the kind of cooking done at Café Boulud Mario Batali's Babbo. These chapters show you how to improvise things such as soups, salads, dried beans, boning and butchering, and stuffing. My experience is that most home cooking is done with one eye on the open book, magazine, newspaper, or internet download with the recipe for your dish. Professional cooking, on the other hand, is often done by what's available that day (See Tom Colicchio's `How to Think Like a Chef').
This book is a great read and a great culinary education, even if you never make any recipes from it. Highly recommended.
less
0 comments
Post a comment