Frozen Desserts by Francisco J.
Migoya
The Best Professional Book Of Its Kind On The Subject Of Froazen Desserts!!!
It is essential for any serious pastry chef to have a comprehensive
knowledge of frozen dessert production, and Frozen Desserts provides all
the basic information a pastry professional needs. Introductory chapters
include:
the history and evolution of frozen desserts ingredients including dairy
products, sugars, stabilizers, emulsifiers, fruits, and flavors equipment
including churning machines, production equipment, and storage and
serving containers essentials on storage, sanitation, and production and
serving techniques Recipe chapters cover: Dairy-Based Frozen
Desserts, which include ice cream, gelato, and sherbet Non-Dairy
Desserts, which include sorbet and granites Aerated Still-Frozen
Desserts, which include parfaits, semi-freddos, and frozen mousses and
souffles Each recipe chapter covers both classic and modern small-
batch production techniques, basic formulas, and both basic and advanced
base recipes. The final chapter, Finished Items, makes use of these base
recipes and shows readers how to produce, plate, garnish, and serve small
desserts, plated desserts, frozen cakes, and even frozen accompaniments
to savory courses. Recipes are illustrated throughout by full-color beauty

photographs. An instructors manual and companion website are also
available for classroom use. Exclusive Recipe Excerpts from Frozen
Desserts Espresso Cardamom Ice Cream Granny Smith and
Fennel Sorbet Passion Fruit Sorbet
Personal Review: Frozen Desserts by Francisco J. Migoya
This is the second book from the Culinary Institude of America that I have
bought, the first being Chocolates and Confections by Grewelling. They
are both luxury editions by Wiley.
The author Mr Francisco Migoya has studied in both France (which is
always a good sign) and Mexico. He has produced an exceptional piece of
work, a labor of love concerning all kinds of frozen desserts and their
presentation.
The whole edition is characterised by class and quality, printed on gloss
paper, with lots of photographs, most of them full page.
There are tables throughout with interesting and helpful information.
The measurements used are both Metric and Imperial weights. No cups
and spoons here, they allow too much space for error.
I have to note that this is a book strictly for professionals, using equipment
only available to them like Ice Cream machines, chillers, blast freezers,
precision scales etc. The only way in which a home cook can benefit from
the content is by being inspired from the decorations and try to impress
their guests using home made or commercial Ice cream.
The book itself is divided into eight main chapters:
1) A brief history of frozen desserts.
2) Ingredients.
3) Equipment,Machines, and Tools.
4) Dairy based frozen desserts.
5) Non dairy frozen desserts.
6) Aerated still frozen desserts.
7) Finished items.
8) Base recipes.
In the introduction the author mentions that he has mainly worked on
plated desserts throughout his career and the book reflects that, as most
creations are plated and for the hotel or cafe industry, which is of course
the main market for frozen desserts. There are several frozen entremets
(whole gateaux) but they are the exeption, not the rule.
The first chapter gives a concise history of frozen desserts, and a history
chapter is a feature of many serious books on the culinary sphere (eg The
French Professional Pastry Series), descending directly from the French
Culinary Tradition.

The chapter on ingredients describes all the ingredients used in frozen
dessert production, giving thorough information especially for the main
ingredients. The different kinds of sugars used are given ( eg trimoline,
glucose) and their effects on the finished products are discussed. Also the
many types of stabilisers and emulsifiers are discussed and combinations
for Ice cream or sorbets are constructed.
The chapter on equipment and machines deals with all the machines
necessary for ice cream production from scales to mixers to freezers and
their sanitation. The Paco Machine is included, something I have not seen
in any other book.
The Dairy-based Frozen Dessert section deals with the different aspects of
Frozen Dairy production, like the type, (eg custard based Ice cream,
Gelato etc)the method (both the Paco and the Machine-churning methods
are discussed) and the overrun.
The Non Dairy Frozen Desserts chapter deals with Sorbets, Granitas etc
displaying the different methods as well as base recipes.
The Aerated Still-Frozen desserts deal with Parfaits, Bombes, Semifreddo,
Frozen Souffles and Mousses. These products are not churned, but are
rather produced like normal mousses and then frozen.
The Finished Items chapter is by far the largest and it displays finished
frozen preparations on the plate or otherwise. Recipes for bases are
included eg Financier, Milk chocolate foam, basic Jelly, French Macaron,
cold sweet soups and sauces, making this an almost all inclusive Pastry
and Frozen dessert book. Creations range from normal to outright exotic
and they include:
French macaron, cassis sorbet and almond ice cream sandwiches.
Burned milk gelato with mexican hot chocolate.
Popcorn sherbet with caramel popcorn and caramel sauce.
Matcha sorbet with toasted black sesame cigars.
Assorted citrus sorbet sandwiches.
Guava sorbet in chilled Hibiscus soup with crisp meringue sticks.
Some recipes combine savory and sweet ingredients, like Cucumber and
Wasabi sorbet, Green zebra tomato sorbet, Rye bread Ice cream and
Jalapeno sorbet.
The decorations are in the modern style, beautiful, somewhat minimal,
usually simple but not simplistic and the excellent photos display every
detail.
For the frozen dessert recipes you are referred to the base recipe section
which includes methods and formulas for many creations including Banana
ice cream, Mascarpone ice cream, Balsamic vinegar ice cream, Praline ice
cream, Kumquat sorbet, Yuzu sorbet, Passion fruit sorbet, Buttermilk

sherbet, Almond mint granite, Mimosa ice pops, Praline parfait,Espresso
semifreddo, Peanut butter bombe, Frozen basil souffle.
After the main chapters follow appentices on several subjects like Average
sugar, solids and acid content of fruit or Mathematical formulation of
sorbets.
In the last pages there is a Glossary, Bibliography, Internet references,
Resources section, a recipe index and a subject index.
The price for all this work is a giveaway. The normal price for this kind of
professional books is at least triple.
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