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Colortheory

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  • 1. Color Theory For Hair Law of Color Contrasting Colors Warm, Cool, & Contributing Pigment Levels Action of Hair Color Every Day Problems To get free test and info go to www.stateboardcosmetologyhelp.com
  • 2. Law of Color: Primary Colors Primary Colors: Red , Yellow , Blue : Colors that cannot be made by mixing. To get free test and info go to www.stateboardcosmetologyhelp.com To get free test and info go to www.stateboardcosmetologyhelp.com
  • 3. Law of Color: Secondary Colors Secondary Colors: Green , Violet , Orange : Colors that are created by mixing equal portions of 2 primary colors. To get free test and info go to www.stateboardcosmetologyhelp.com To get free test and info go to www.stateboardcosmetologyhelp.com
  • 4. Law of Color: Tertiary Colors Tertiary Colors: Red Orange , Yellow Orange , Blue Violet , Olive , Red Violet , Orange Red, Gold . Colors created by mixing equal amounts of primary and secondary colors. Click > to see video To get free test and info go to www.stateboardcosmetologyhelp.com To get free test and info go to www.stateboardcosmetologyhelp.com
  • 5. Complimentary & Contrasting or Neutralizing (same meaning)
    • Complimentary Colors are the colors that are directly across each other on the color wheel.
    • Red / Green
    To get free test and info go to www.stateboardcosmetologyhelp.com
  • 6. Complimentary & Contrasting or Neutralizing (same meaning)
    • Complimentary Colors mixed together equally will always produce a very drab brown color.
    • Yellow / Violet
    To get free test and info go to www.stateboardcosmetologyhelp.com
  • 7. Complimentary & Contrasting or Neutralizing (same meaning) To get free test and info go to www.stateboardcosmetologyhelp.com
    • Complimentary Colors are used to neutralize unwanted brassy tones.
    • Blue / Orange
    • Click > to see video
  • 8. Color Levels & Tone Warm or Cool All natural hair color has an underlying pigment of red, yellow, and orange. As a cosmetologist you will need to familiarize yourself with the warm colors of each hair level to determine the correct formula for correcting unwanted brassiness and yellow tones. Each hair color pigment needs a specific cool color to Neutralize or enhance the underlying warm pigment. Warm = Red , Orange , Yellow Cool = Green , Violet , Blue Click > to see video To get free test and info go to www.stateboardcosmetologyhelp.com
  • 9. Levels
    • Level from 1 to 11, 1 being Black and 11 being pale Blonde .
    • Click > to see video
    To get free test and info go to www.stateboardcosmetologyhelp.com
  • 10. Chemical Action of Hair Color
    • Click > to see video
    To get free test and info go to www.stateboardcosmetologyhelp.com
  • 11. Every Day Problems w/Color
    • PROBLEM: Red Problem 1 : Red colors go to purple or mahogany .
    • CAUSE: This is usually caused by the reaction of the patron’s hair to the color used.
    • SOLUTION: Add a small amount of a gold color into the formula (approximately ½ ounce gold tone 1 ½ of the red )
    • PROBLEM: Red Problem 2 : Red colors are not holding on the ends.
    • CAUSE: Ends are too porous due to permanent waving, over bleaching, or sun bleaching.
    • SOLUTION: Apply a red or red - gold * FILLER to the ends for 5 to 10 minutes. Blot off filler. If the color is not sufficient then reapply. When the desired shade is reached, apply the red formula you selected in the usual manner.
    • A FILLER SHOULD ALWAYS BE USED ON PREVIOUS COLORED HAIR TO PREVENT COLOR DEMARCATION. A filler helps to even out porosity so the color covers more evenly along the shaft.
    To get free test and info go to www.stateboardcosmetologyhelp.com
  • 12. Every Day Problems w/Color
    • PROBLEM: Blonding Problem : One process blonding take on a
    • silvery Grey color on shaft.
    • CAUSE: The over-porous areas absorbed too much of the base color.
    • SOLUTION: Select a light blond tint with a gold base and add in a pale gold filler. The formula would be 1 oz color, 1 oz developer, and 1 oz color filler. Leave on shaft for 10 to 15 minutes, but always do a *STRAND TEST.
    • PROBLEM: Gray Problem : Patron has gray mixed into her brown hair and there wasn’t any coverage.
    • CAUSE: 1: Tint selected was not dark enough, or 2: improper timing of tint, or 3: the patron waited too long between retouches.
    • SOLUTION: Select a shade slightly deeper (darker) or *PRE-SOFTEN with a light blond tint using 2 parts of peroxide and 1 part tine. Apply to resistant area for 10-15 minutes, gently blot excess off with towel, then apply your tint formula in the usual manner.
    • **IF IN DOUBT ALWAYS DO A STRAND TEST: Take a slight hair section in the crown area and apply the color like you would: mid shaft, roots, ends. Spray with bottle, blot w/ towel, dry. Never assume the hair is going to accept color. Every line is different.
    • **The color will look more polished if you pre-soften . A rule of thumb is if it more that 30% gray use a deeper shade or presoften.
    To get free test and info go to www.stateboardcosmetologyhelp.com