MT: Harvesting and Saving Garden Seeds
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Harvesting and Saving Garden Seeds

Harvesting and Saving Garden Seeds

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MT: Harvesting and Saving Garden Seeds MT: Harvesting and Saving Garden Seeds Document Transcript

  • Harvesting and Saving Garden Seeds by Robert E. Gough, Professor of Horticulture, and Cheryl Moore-Gough, Extension Horticulture Specialist, Montana State University-Bozeman This publication explains what you need to know to begin harvesting and saving garden seeds. It defines the term cultivar, and explains the distinctions between hybrids, open-pollinated, cross-pollinated and self-pollinated cultivars. MontGuide It gives basic instructions on how to save and preserve viable seed for different types of plants and contains a table of average storage times. MT199905AG Revised 8/08Modern plant breederS Have coMe a lonG the first generation of a cross between two inbred lines).way toward developing vegetable cultivars of the highest There are hybrids of cross-pollinated as well as of self-quality. In many cases, yields and pest resistance of these pollinated crops. These produce vigorous, high yielding,new cultivars far exceed those popular just a few years ago. pest-resistant plants with high-quality flowers, fruits or Until the end of World War II most gardeners saved roots. The seeds you purchase and plant will producetheir own seeds in an effort to cut costs and/or because plants true to type, but their offspring won’t. Seeds savedhigh quality seeds were not always readily available at a from an F1 hybrid plant will be the next (F2) generationreasonable price. That’s all changed. Now inexpensive, and will very likely produce plants inferior to the parent.high quality seed is available and we generally recommend Do not waste your time saving the seeds from hybridthat you purchase fresh seed from a reliable, preferably cultivars.local, company rather than attempt to save your ownseeds from year to year. Open-pollinated cultivars However, there is a small but growing group of hobby This refers to cross-pollinated cultivars that are notgardeners that prefer to save their own seeds. By doing hybrids. They will produce plants reasonably true to typethis they not only save a very small sum of money but also if planted in isolation. Most older cultivars of vegetables,can attempt to do their own amateur plant breeding and such as the Straight 8 cucumber and the Sparklerselection of what they consider to be superior cultivars. radish, are open-pollinated.One caveat: be advised that saving seeds of some patentedcultivars may be illegal. Cross-pollinated cultivars Cross-pollinated cultivars are those that are pollinated Saving your own vegetable seed is fun but takes time by other cultivars of the same kind of plant. Forand must be done right. Harvest seeds only from the best example, seeds of Long Standing Bloomsdale spinachcultivars that produce the most vigorous plants and the are produced in fields planted only to that cultivar andfinest crops. With carrots and parsnips, select the plants isolated from other spinach cultivars. The traits passedthat produce small-cored roots with little zoning. (Zoning on to the seeds will be within the acceptable knownis the bicolor banding you see in a cross-section of the characteristics of the cultivar.roots.) If you plant only Long Standing Bloomsdale spinach, Here are a few rules and definitions to keep in mind the traits will be passed on to succeeding generations andwhen saving your seeds. you will be reasonably sure of getting a Long StandingHybrids Bloomsdale typeMany cultivars plant from year toavailable from Cultivar: A horticultural race or variety of a plant that year. However, ifseed companies has originated and persisted only under cultivation. you plant differenttoday are F1 cultivars of spinach – American Heritage Dictionaryhybrids (that is, Third Edition For More Online MontGuides, Visit www.msuextension.org
  • TABLE 1. Some common vegetable crops that are naturally cross-pollinated Partially cross-pollinated Asparagus Carrots Cress Okra Radish cultivars Beets Cauliflower Endive Onion Rhubarb Eggplant, pepper, celery and the Broccoli Chard Leek Parsley Rutabaga cucurbits (vine crops – squashes, Cabbage Corn N.Z. Spinach Parsnip Spinach pumpkins, muskmelons, cucumbers and watermelons) are partially– for example, Long Standing Bloomsdale and cross-pollinated, with the amountMelody – in your garden in the same year, they will of cross-pollination dependent upon the environment.cross-pollinate. The seeds from this cross-pollination will However, as with open-pollinated cultivars, there arecarry a combination of traits from the two cultivars. So, hybrid cultivars available within this group. If you planyou can save seeds from open-pollinated cultivars and to save the seeds, plant a nonhybrid in isolation to bebe reasonably sure of getting satisfactory results IF you sure you get seeds that will produce plants that are true toisolate the plants from other cultivars of the same type of type.vegetable. Cucurbits belonging to certain species will also cross- Plants listed in Table 1 are naturally cross-pollinated. For pollinate (Table 2) and must be isolated from eachhome garden production, separate these plants from others other to remain reasonably true to type.of the same kind by at least 200 yards to reduce the chancesof crossing among cultivars. As a group, most crucifers – Self-pollinated cultivarsalso known as cole crops, or brassicas – cross readily, so Peas, beans, lettuce and tomatoes are self-pollinated.isolate them from each other by at least 200 yards if you You can be fairly sure of getting plants true to type fromwant to save their seed. For example, broccoli will readily seeds saved from an earlier generation, provided you docross with kohlrabi, cabbage with cauliflower, etc. not start with hybrid seeds. You can plant several cultivars together and not have to worry about isolation to retain Beets, chard, corn and spinach are cross-pollinated by purity.wind (wind-pollinated). Separate these plants by at leastone mile from other cultivars of the same kind. Always Biennialsisolate super sweet corn varieties. If they cross with any Saving seeds from annuals is easy, but the seeds ofother types of corn, the resulting corn will be tough and biennials are borne in the second season following a coldstarchy. period (Table 3). Therefore, you will have to allow the The better seed companies indicate in their catalogs plants to over-winter and collect seeds from the floweringwhether a cross-pollinated cultivar is open-pollinated or structures the following year. Root crops present a speciala hybrid. Once again, do not attempt to save the seeds of problem since they must be harvested to judge theirhybrid cultivars. quality. Carefully dig them in the fall and select thoseTABLE 2. Some commonly grown cucurbits (vine crops), their species and common cultivars.Any two cultivars within the same species will freely cross. Cultivars within species with the same subscript will also cross. For ex-ample, C. pepo will cross with C. moschata and C. mixta, while C. maxima will cross only with C. moschata. Other crosses betweenspecies (for example, C. melo and C. sativus) will not occur, nor will crosses among genera.Species Cucurbita Cucurbita Cucurbita Cucurbita mixtaz Cucumis Cucumis Citrullus pepoz moschatayz maximay melo sativus lanatusCultivars Jack O’Lantern Butternut Buttercup squash Green striped Netted Cucumber Watermelon pumpkin squash Hubbard squash cushaw pumpkin muskmelons Conn. field Dickinson Turks turban White Honeydew pumpkin pumpkin squash cushaw pumpkin melons Acorn squash Kentucky field Big Max pumpkin Casaba melons Spaghetti pumpkin King of Crenshaw squash Golden cushaw mammoths melons Zucchini pumpkin pumpkin Snake melon Yellow crookneck Yellow straight- neck Bush scallop2
  • TABLE 3. The following plants are biennials and normally will Saving seeds borne in fleshy fruit (tomato,produce seeds in their second season cucumber, etc.) Beets Cabbage Carrots • Pick fully ripe fruit of cucumber and tomato and Cauliflower Celery Chard squeeze the pulp, including the seeds, into a glass or Chicory1 Collards Endive1 plastic container. Kale Leeks Onions • Add a little water and let the mixture ferment several Parsnips Parsley Rutabaga days at room temperature, stirring occasionally.Late Cultivars1 Sound, viable seeds will settle out; nonviable seeds will float.with the best characteristics (largest root, minimal zoning, • Pour off the pulp, nonviable seeds and water andetc.). Remove their tops and replant them right away just spread the viable seeds in a single layer on a paperas they were growing previously. The following spring towel to dry.they will produce new tops and a flower stalk from which • Store them in a paper envelope in a cool, dry place.seeds can be harvested. • Scrape out the seeds of peppers, melons, pumpkinsSaving seeds borne in a pod-like structure (beans, and squash and spread them onto a paper towel topeas, crucifers, etc.) dry. Then store them in a paper envelope as you • Allow the pods to turn brown, then harvest the pods, would other seeds. dry them for 1–2 weeks in a warm, dry area and shell. Saving herb seeds • Store the seeds in a paper bag in a cool (below 50°F), Herbs vary in the way their seeds are produced. In dry place. general, allow herb seeds to remain on the plants until • The seeds of crucifers can carry diseases that will nearly dry. Some seed heads, like those of dill, shatter as infect your garden. After harvest, soak seeds of soon as they are dry. Watch the early-ripening seeds; if cabbage in 122°F water for 25 minutes. Soak the they drop, harvest the other seed heads before they get to seeds of broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower at that point, leaving several inches of stem attached. the same temperature for 18 minutes. Pay attention Tie several stems together and hang them upside- to the time and temperature. down, covered with a paper bag to catch falling seed, in • After soaking, dry and store the seeds in paper a warm, dry place until completely dried. Remove seeds envelopes in a cool, dry place. from the heads and store them in a paper envelope in a cool, dry place. Herb seeds for flavoring, such as dill, aniseSaving seeds borne in a flowerhead (lettuce, endive, and cumin, are used when dry.dill, etc.) Mark storage containers clearly with permanent ink, • Cut off the seed stalks just before all the seeds are indicating the cultivar of seed and date saved. Most dried; the seeds may fall off the stalk and be lost if seeds remain viable for years if properly stored in paper you allow them to fully dry on the plant. envelopes in a cool place (Table 4). • Dry the harvested seed stalk, shake or rub the seeds Test germination in February by the traditional “rag- off and store them in a paper envelope in a cool, dry doll” test. Count out 100 small seeds or 25 large seeds place. If you notice the seeds fall off the stalks as they and wrap them in moistened paper toweling. Squeeze dry (shattering), place the entire stalk upside down out the extra water and place the “rag-doll” in a glass jar in a paper bag or cover the seed heads with a nylon with the cover loosely fastened. Place the jar on a sunny stocking to catch the seeds. window sill. Unroll the paper after a week and figure the germination; if germination is below 50 percent, either discard the seed or double the planting concentration to give the desired number of plants. 3
  • TABLE 4. Average number of years seeds may retain good viability when properly stored Vegetable Years Vegetable Years Asparagus 3 Lettuce 5 Bean 3 Muskmelon 5 Beet 4 Mustard 4 Broccoli 5 Onion 1 Brussels sprouts 5 Parsley 2 Cabbage 5 Parsnip 1 Carrot 3 Pea 3 Cauliflower 5 Pepper 4 Celery 5 Pumpkin 4 Chinese cabbage 5 Radish 5 Collard 5 Rutabaga 5 Cucumber 5 Spinach 5 Eggplant 5 Squash 5 Endive 5 Sweet corn 1 Kale 5 Tomato 4 Kohlrabi 5 Turnip 5 Leek 1 Watermelon 5 NLOAD OW D FREE E To order additional publications, please contact your county or reservation MSU Extension office, visit our online E W catalog at www.msuextension.org/publications.asp or e-mail orderpubs@montana.eduCopyright © 2008 MSU ExtensionWe encourage the use of this document for nonprofit educational purposes. This document may be reprinted for nonprofit educational purposes if no endorsement of a commercialproduct, service or company is stated or implied, and if appropriate credit is given to the author and MSU Extension. To use these documents in electronic formats, permissionmust be sought from the Extension Communications Coordinator, 115 Culbertson Hall, Montana State University, Bozeman MT 59717; E-mail: publications@montana.eduThe U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), Montana State University and Montana State University Extension prohibit discrimination in all of their programs and activities onthe basis of race, color, national origin, gender, religion, age, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, and marital and family status. Issued in furtherance of cooperativeextension work in agriculture and home economics, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Douglas L. Steele, Vice Provostand Director, Montana State University Extension, Bozeman, MT 59717. File under: Yard and Garden (General) Revised August 2008 800-808SA