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From 1900s-  Present Women's Fashion Early 1900s. Early 1990s.
Life of a Designer <ul><li>Draw, design, create,  </li></ul><ul><li>& sell clothing. </li></ul>Influence on fashion: Refle...
Life of a Designer Continued… Starting new trends. Overseeing production. Managing marketing & finances.   Alexander McQue...
Fashion  Terms Haute Couture :   Custom made &  create certain ‘looks.’  John Galliano, Dior.  Dress , Spring 2007. ( Haut...
Prêt-a-porter :   Mass-production: many sizes. (Boutiques &  Clothing Stores) Fashion  Terms Continued… Tommy Hilfiger.  C...
Givenchy.  Dress , Fall 2010. Can you guess which design represents  Haute Couture  & which design represents  Pret-a-port...
What is  STYLE  ? John Galliano, Dior.  Dress , Spring 2007. Hubert de Givenchy.  Haute Couture , Fall 2010. Karl Lagerfel...
Style Personality Defines character Creative International Christian Dior.  Haute , Autumn/Winter 2010 . Christian Lacroix...
Style Invention Issey Miyake.  Dress. Inspiration Unique Artistic expression Yves Saint Laurent.  &quot;Mondrian&quot; day...
Trends I.e. Harajuku Current style Followers Trend setters Colour Block Trend , London. Harajuku Girls. Harajuku Girls.
Evolution <ul><li>Manufacturing & Technology Changes: </li></ul>Innovations modernized life & impacted fashion industry.  ...
Evolution   Continued … <ul><ul><li>Communications made selling clothes easier (phones). </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Photog...
Society &  Fashion <ul><li>As society changes,  </li></ul><ul><li>so does one’s  </li></ul><ul><li>fashion sense. </li></u...
Evolution   Continued … Society & Fashion Continued… “ Fashion is a style … that is temporarily adopted [by a social group...
Changes in Society <ul><li>Late 1800s: </li></ul><ul><li>“ Perfect Fit” </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Corset </li></ul></ul><ul><u...
Changes in Society Continued… Early 1900s: Looser Gowns: “ Straight Look” Mariano Fortuny.  Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , ...
<ul><li>Present: </li></ul><ul><li>More freedom: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Baggy/ fitted </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Many diffe...
In the 1800s, the figure of a woman was tightly fitted, & greatly emphasized the rear. In the Past… Dress , 1800ss. Corset...
Wire frames were used to  emphasize  womanly features (were put underneath dresses & skirts). In the Past… Continued… Dres...
In the Past…  Continued… Different types of hoop framing. Hoop frames , 1800s.
Transition from the 1800s to the 1900s Dress , 1800ss. Mariano Fortuny.  Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Leave behind ...
DESIGNERS  DAY  1 <ul><li>Mariano   Fortuny </li></ul>Mariano Fortuny.  Fortuny House in Venice , until 1949.
Mariano  Y  Madrazo  Fortuny Painted, photographed, worked with textiles, & clothing. Disliked trendiness & commercialism ...
M a r i a n o  F o r t u n y Peplos Kore , Acropolis, Athens, c.530 BC (1.17m)  Acropolis Museum, Athens  KORE: KOUROS: Ko...
What  similarities  do you notice between the Kore Statue and the Delphos Gown ? Mariano Fortuny.  Evening Gown (Delphos G...
Mariano Fortuny What other  similarities  do you notice between these two images ? Peplos Kore , Acropolis, Athens, c.530 ...
M a r i a n o  F o r t u n y Peplos Kore , Acropolis, Athens, c.530 BC (1.17m)  Acropolis Museum, Athens  KORE: Mariano Fo...
Mariano   Fortuny <ul><li>Spanish painter/ designer of 1900s </li></ul><ul><li>Great influence: Modernism and Art Nouveau ...
M a r i a n o     F o r t u n y  1st textile creation: Knossos  Scarves . Rectangular Cloth:   silk veils, geometric shape...
MARIANO FORTUNY Mariano Fortuny.  Knossos Scarves , 1906. Mariano Fortuny.  Knossos Scarves , 1906. These scarves were For...
Mariano Fortuny.  Coat,  1910s. Stencil Print: traditional Japanese pattern. Design: Straight- cut structure. Art nouveau ...
Mariano Fortuny.  Gown,  1910s. Resembles kimono: Long, narrow collar & sleeves. Traditional Japanese patterns. Garment un...
Invention:  DELPHOS GOWN  (modern & original) Mariano Fortuny Pleated Dress This crimpled garment was seen as striking & d...
Mariano   Fortuny <ul><li>Original: </li></ul><ul><li>Batwing Sleeves, Wide Neckline,  always  had a Chord </li></ul>Maria...
Mariano Fortuny Long, (usually with train), Venetian glass beads at side seams, armholes function as weights for dress. Ma...
Mariano Fortuny Mariano Fortuny.  Tunic and Pants, 1910s. Delphos Gown : Intended to show natural beauty of body’s shape. ...
Mariano Fortuny Mariano Fortuny.  Dress,  1930s. Renaissance pattern made by Fortuny. Mariano Fortuny.  Dress,  1930s. For...
Mariano Fortuny Mariano Fortuny is known to have broken through the corset & tight silhouette era, only to replace them wi...
A great example of a fashion designer who has definite similarities in her designs with those of Fortuny’s is Gabrielle “C...
C O C O C H A N E L
Coco Chanel “ A girl should be two things: Classy & Fabulous .” -Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel 1883-1971
Coco Chanel Chanel was known for her Avant Garde style. Avant Garde: Refers to people or works that are experimental & inn...
<ul><li>COCO CHANEL </li></ul>Gabrielle &quot;Coco&quot; Chanel.  Day ensemble , ca. 1927 French fashion  designer of 1920...
Coco Chanel Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.  Coat and Hat,   c.1920 & late 1910s. Opened her first hat shop in 1910. Later added ...
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.  Evening Dress,  c. 1920. Coco Chanel Her pieces resembled those of Fortuny’s. Mariano Fortuny.  ...
COCO CHANEL Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.  Dress,  c. 1926. Her designs proved that clothing could be both classic & casual. Ga...
Coco Chanel Had strong belief that women’s clothing needed to posses functional features (especially during both wars). Ga...
Coco Chanel 1925: Introduced legendary Chanel suit with the collarless jacket & well-fitted skirt. Style element of men’s ...
Mariano Fortuny.  Tunic and Pants,  1910s. Coco Chanel Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.  Day Ensemble , c.1927. Both designers inc...
Coco Chanel Took pride in wearing her creations, even more so because she was a working woman. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.  D...
Coco Chanel Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.  Dress , c. 1935. As lightweight materials started to popularize, Chanel began using ...
Coco Chanel Through the years, Chanel was consistent with her designs. Today, the Chanel Suit & the Little Black Dress are...
Coco Chanel Although her popularity decreased after World War II, she staged a comeback in the 1950s, partly in reaction t...
Balenciaga Cristobal
Cristobal  Balenciaga Master of fabric design & creation. Fashion innovator. 1895-1972 “ Women did not have to be perfect ...
Cristobal Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga.  Dress (Sketch),  November 1948. Altered women’s silhouette. Balenciaga was one...
Cristobal Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga.  Day Dress,  Autumn/ Winter 1948. Created complex forms with cutting techniques...
Cristobal Balenciaga used a lot of fabric, but dresses were very light.  Cristobal Balenciaga.  Evening Coat,  Autumn/ Win...
Cristobal Balenciaga Balenciaga’s designs embodied fluidity & grace. Cristobal Balenciaga.  Cocktail Dress , 1955. Cristob...
Cristobal Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga.  Cocktail Dress , 1955. Dress , 1800s. His  Cocktail Dress  took inspiration fr...
Cristobal Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga.  Cocktail Dress , Spring/ Summer 1948. Evening coat , fall/winter 1950 Cristoba...
Cristobal Balenciaga Evening dress , fall/winter 1950 Cristobal Balenciaga   Evening wrap , 1954–55 Cristobal Balenciaga
Cristobal Balenciaga Day dress , 1955–56 Cristobal Balenciaga  Evening dress , ca. 1959 Cristobal Balenciaga
Cristobal Balenciaga.  Day dress , ca. 1960–64. Day coat , 1964 Cristobal Balenciaga
Evening gown , 1965 Cristobal Balenciaga  Dress ensemble , ca. 1965–66 Cristobal Balenciaga
 
 
<ul><li>-  Leading designer of  </li></ul><ul><li>the 1920-30’s </li></ul><ul><li>-  Was known for her unusual  </li></ul>...
<ul><li>She began to make a name for herself with her black knit sweaters with a white bowtie pattern knitted in. </li></u...
<ul><li>First designer to introduce shoulder pads and the use of hot pink within her designs; called it “shocking pink” </...
Evening jacket , 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli Evening jacket , 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli
Elsa Schiaparelli, 1938 shocking-pink and black striped evening gown Elsa Schiaparelli, Evening Gown
Elsa Schiaparelli, The 1937 Lobster Dress Schiaparelli's Fall-Winter 1937-38, Shoe hat Elsa Schiaparelli, Tear Illusion Dr...
Chanel vs. Schiaparelli   Evening jacket , 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.  Day Ensemble , c. 1927.
Lady Gaga at the AMAs, 2009. Schiaparelli Skeleton Dress, 1938. Lady Gaga, Lobster Hat Striped Wedge Shoe
Christian Dior
Christian Dior <ul><li>“ Zest is the secret of all beauty. There is no beauty that is attractive without zest.” </li></ul>...
Christian Dior Created a new look:  Flower Women. Composed of rounded, soft shoulders, a narrow waist, & full skirt.
Christian Dior Outfits normally paired with: A hat (tilted to the side), gloves, & simple jewellery.
Christian Dior Dior used expensive fabrics to make his clothes Chérie dinner dress for example was made out of silk   &quo...
Christian Dior <ul><li>&quot;Bar&quot; suit and jacket, spring/summer 1947 </li></ul><ul><li>Rounded shoulders </li></ul><...
Christian Dior <ul><li>&quot;Abandon&quot; afternoon dress , fall/winter 1948–49 </li></ul><ul><li>Full skirt </li></ul><u...
Christian Dior <ul><li>Designed by John Galliano </li></ul><ul><li>Resembles the “new look” </li></ul><ul><li>Soft rounded...
 
<ul><li>-  Known best for his revolution of textile in the fifties and sixties. </li></ul><ul><li>Pucci’s career began by ...
DESIGNS <ul><li>Known best for his revolution of textile in the fifties and sixties. </li></ul><ul><li>This revolution bro...
Emilio Pucci, dresses
Pucci’s success brought several opportunities his way. One being him offered to design uniforms for airlines. He designed ...
POPULARITY <ul><li>What made Pucci so popular was when consumer discovered how light weight his silk dresses were. They we...
Vintage 1960s Emilio Pucci Dress Creation and Design - 1964 - Emilio Pucci
Victoria Beckham wearing Emilio Pucci
Emilio Pucci, Fall 2008 Emilio Pucci, Winter 2010-11
Hubert De Givenchy
Hubert De Givenchy <ul><li>“ Hair style is the final tip-off whether or not a woman really knows herself.” </li></ul><ul><...
<ul><li>Givenchy’s trademark was flowing lines, use of embroidered, bold colours and print fabrics </li></ul><ul><li>Shows...
Hubert De Givenchy <ul><li>Evening gown, ca. 1968 </li></ul><ul><li>Used a bright salmon colour </li></ul><ul><li>Use of  ...
Hubert De Givenchy <ul><li>Embroidered beads and coral pieces </li></ul>Evening gown, 1963
Hubert De Givenchy  <ul><li>Worn in Sabrina 1954 by Audrey Hepburn </li></ul><ul><li>use of  embroidered </li></ul><ul><li...
Hubert De Givenchy <ul><li>Bettina blouse was part of his first collection </li></ul><ul><li>He used this blouse as his si...
Hubert De Givenchy  <ul><li>Designed by  Riccardo Tisci </li></ul><ul><li>Riccardo’s design also shows the use of  embroid...
Yves Saint Laurent
Yves Saint Laurent <ul><li>&quot;dressing is a way of life&quot;.  </li></ul><ul><li>-Yves Saint Laurent </li></ul>
<ul><li>Frequently used ethnic themes in designs </li></ul><ul><li>Used bright colours that contrasted with black </li></u...
Yves Saint Laurent <ul><li>fall/winter 1965–1966 </li></ul>Contrast in bright colours with black <ul><li>Showed more mascu...
<ul><li>Spring/Summer 1967 “African look” </li></ul><ul><li>First to create a “back to nature” look </li></ul><ul><li>Used...
<ul><li>fall/winter 2004–2005 </li></ul><ul><li>Designed by Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent House </li></ul><ul><li>Used a...
Jean- Paul Gaultier
Jean- Paul Gaultier Avant Garde: Gaultier is always experimenting & innovating his designs. He started experimenting with ...
Jean- Paul Gaultier Edgy Collections. Growing up, Gaultier had a passion for image. (I.e. Being well- known.) <ul><li>deta...
Jean- Paul Gaultier Gaultier took undergarments & incorporated them in outwear. Jean- Paul Gaultier.  Dress , Spring/ Summ...
Jean- Paul  Gaultier These unique designs were his signature look. In 1990, Madonna actually wore Gaultier’s garments, whi...
Jean- Paul Gaultier Some of his most recognizable cutting- edge designs included jackets, dresses, & jumpsuits. Jean- Paul...
Jean- Paul Gaultier Gaultier's innovations have always pushed the  boundaries of fashion . Jean- Paul Gaultier.  Haute Cou...
Jean- Paul Gaultier Because of the success of his brand, Jean Paul Gaultier, also named as the successor of YSL, was hired...
Jean- Paul Gaultier Jean- Paul Gaultier always held the audience’s interest during his seasonal Houte Couture fashion show...
Jean- Paul Gaultier Jean- Paul Gaultier.  Haute Couture , Spring/ Summer 2009. Jean- Paul Gaultier.  Haute Couture , Winte...
Jean- Paul Gaultier <ul><li>Jean- Paul Gaultier’s inspiration: </li></ul><ul><li>Street design. </li></ul><ul><li>Couture ...
Jean- Paul Gaultier.  Haute Couture . Gaultier is probably one of the most targeted (by critics) of all designers because ...
Jean- Paul Gaultier.  Headgear (Haute Couture),  Autumn/ Winter 2008-09. He has made a great impact on the fashion society...
 
“ What is clothing?” The “matrix” of Miyake’s designs <ul><li>Attempted to find universal clothing </li></ul><ul><li>Tried...
Designs <ul><li>Often tested the boundaries of haut couture </li></ul><ul><li>Investigated fashion from around the world <...
<ul><li>Miyake would create designs with geometric shape and effortless amounts of drapery influenced by Madeleine Voinnet...
<ul><li>Miyake attempts to design clothing not based on how it looks from the outside body, but how the materials interact...
<ul><li>Miyake created the line “Pleats Please” </li></ul><ul><li>Garments made out of light polyester and fed through ple...
Issey Miyake, staircase
Issey Miyake, Pleats Please line, paper dress
Wool knit, 1989, Issey Miyake Ensemble, 1983, Issey Miyake
Gianni Versace
Gianni Versace <ul><li>“ I like the body. I like to design everything to do with the body.” </li></ul><ul><li>-Gianni Vers...
<ul><li>Designed curve hugging gowns </li></ul><ul><li>Liked to create skin-tight with low cuts and high slits on the skir...
<ul><li>fall/winter 1991–1992 </li></ul><ul><li>Very slim and tight </li></ul><ul><li>Has a high slit  </li></ul><ul><li>s...
<ul><li>1997–1998 </li></ul><ul><li>Skin tight </li></ul><ul><li>Emphasizes curves  </li></ul><ul><li>Spring/Summer 1994 <...
Spring 2008 Couture  Spring 2008 Couture  <ul><li>Skin tight </li></ul><ul><li>Hugs curves </li></ul>
Karl Lagerfeld
Karl is one of the most multitalented designers known today. Maintained his reputation through his successful and strong c...
<ul><li>Signature look:  </li></ul><ul><li>Powdered white hair in a pony tail </li></ul><ul><li>Black suit </li></ul><ul><...
Designs <ul><ul><li>Black & white with occasional colours </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Feminine </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>S...
<ul><li>Combining immediacy of ready-to-wear with the elegance of couture. </li></ul>Karl Lagerfeld  Dress for House of Ch...
Ability to mix quirky with classic changed the direction of modern fashion Karl Lagerfeld  Suit. Chanel  Spring 2008
An expert at combining elements of street style with elegance of haute couture. Karl Lagerfeld  Dress.  Fall 2010
<ul><li>Currently works for three houses: </li></ul><ul><li>Fendi </li></ul><ul><li>Chanel </li></ul><ul><li>Karl Lagerfel...
Lagerfeld for Fendi Karl Lagerfeld.  Ensemble;  for Fendi . Fall 2007 <ul><li>Designs furs for fendi. </li></ul><ul><li>St...
KL. <ul><ul><li>Bold tailoring </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>easy-to-wear pieces </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Black and white, ...
Chanel <ul><li>brought back the label to high fashion. </li></ul><ul><li>Produced many styles on the signature tweed suits...
Lagerfeld vs. Chanel Karl Lagerfeld.  Suit . 1992. Karl Lagerfeld. Haus of Chanel. Spring 2011 Simple, tailored  tradition...
<ul><li>Details used in Lagerfeld’s designs for Chanel presented the house’s personality:  femininity </li></ul>Karl Lager...
Karl Lagerfeld.  Suit for House of Chanel.  1992 Karl Lagerfeld  Suit for House of Chanel,  2011 This is an example of how...
Now lets see if  you can tell the difference
<ul><li>Which of these designs are from the house of Chanel and his own house?;  </li></ul><ul><li>How do you know? </li><...
 
At his most recent fashion show, (Fall 2010) he had a sculpture of a lion made just for this show Shows how creative, insp...
<ul><li>http://watch.fashiontelevision.com/fashion-icons/designers/karl-lagerfeld/clip98687#clip98687 </li></ul><ul><li>2:...
 
LACROIX <ul><li>Christian LaCroix has been accredited with designing pieces that are glamorous, dramatic and expensive loo...
<ul><li>Began his career while working for  Hermès  and Guy Paulin.  </li></ul><ul><li>Became a designer for Jean Patou in...
<ul><li>His collections are always based on exotic and lavish inspirations such as primitives, modern gypsies and even a h...
<ul><li>“ I want to get back to the position where the couture becomes a kind of laboratory of ideas, the way it was with ...
Christian Lacroix, spring couture 2009 Christian Lacroix, Fall couture 2008
Christian Lacroix, Fall couture, 2008 Christian Lacroix, Patchwork dress
 
Signed to Givenchy in 1996 to replace John Galliano. But later parted ways and created his couture line: Alexander McQueen
Designs <ul><li>- Impeccable tailoring and detailing  </li></ul><ul><li>- Post-punk  </li></ul><ul><li>- Feminine, yet edg...
Alexander Mcqueen.  Ensemble.   Some of his designs are very tough, dark, edgy and
Alexander Mcqueen.  Oyster Dress. 2003 But also create something elegant  Corset. Very detailed Lots of ruffles, layering....
McQueen for Givenchy <ul><li>Incorporated Givenchy’s trademarks </li></ul><ul><li>Shows quality, elegance and lady-like fa...
Takes part in Dior’s ‘New look” Cinched waist, puffy dress Exquisite detailing. Very tailored
Givenchy vs. McQueen Hubert Givenchy.  Cocktail Ensemble , Spring/Summer1953 Alexander McQueen.  Dress,  Fall 2010 Givench...
Alexander McQueen.  Dress;  Spring 2011 Influenced by organic art. leather pieces cut into flowers
Alexander McQueen.  Dress,  Fall 2010 Alexander McQueen.  Dress,  Summer 2010 Another example of organic art. This dress h...
Alexander Mcqueen. 2011 Alexander McQueen.  Dress,  Fall 2010
This butterfly effect represent ruffles Phillip Lim. 3.1  Sleeveless Dress;  2006 Alexander McQueen.  Dress,  Fall 2010
Alexander McQueen.  Shoe,  Spring 2010 Lobster Claw Lobster claw-inspired
<ul><li>Remembered for his memorable fashion shows, tailoring, creativity, imagination </li></ul>
 
<ul><li>First joined Gucci in 1990. </li></ul><ul><li>Reinvented Gucci’s style: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Witty and wonderful ...
<ul><li>Most influential designer in the world because of his knowledge in the marketing and business industry.  </li></ul>
Designs <ul><li>Gloss, glamour and daring experimental designs </li></ul><ul><li>Known for his glamour, seductive, sexy de...
Tom Ford.  Ensemble, Evening.  1996-1997 Very simple and elegant, yet seductive. Cut-offs at the side Low cut Thin straps ...
Gucci.  Beachwear;  1970s. Gucci’s design influenced Ford’s use of cut-offs This design also shows how it influenced Ford’...
Tom Ford (YDL)  Dress ; spring/summer 2002 <ul><li>YSL was known for his seductive evening gowns. </li></ul><ul><li>Ford i...
Tom Ford (Gucci).  Dress;  spring/summer 2003 Exposure of the leg and the deep v-neck shows ford’s trademark style.
<ul><li>These designers have impacted the world of fashion drastically todays society </li></ul><ul><li>Continue to do so ...
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  • PICTURES!
  • Include 2/3 pics of coco chanel’s “avant-garde” style !
  • * Designs had ELONGALATED LINES
  • TRANSITION SLIDE !
  • Picture of balenciaga !
  • * Look up &amp; define innovation !
  • Put a pic of balenciaga
  • PICS
  • Ask the class
  • this ensembles reflects on what Karl is known for. It shows the colours used, how simple the outfit is; the pieces are very feminine (skirt, cut blouse, scarf) and it reflects on a man’s suit. (the skirt would rep. dress pants, the white blouse used, and the black scarf that acts like a black tie.
  • The classic style of the mens suit is turned into an office style for women. Ruffles and tailoring at the waist highlights the women’s body and giving it a feminine vibe
  • This looks like it is haute couture because of the detailing and tailoring that is put into this ensemble.
  • Each label has its own distinctive look. Baring the bold, uncompromising lagerfeld signature = garuntees the success of everything he produces.
  • Included fendi’s signature look (with the fur) and included his signature style (sophisticated black and white) Include more basic info on fendi
  • feminine vibe: use of sparkles, frills, beaded trims, soft colours, embroidery, Add this ^^^ to the slide.
  • You can see from these designs that Karl recreated his own design forom 1992 to this year’s spring 2011 collection. This is an example of how fashion can change over time. As you can see, he included styles that were in to his new design: puffed sleeves, collared, smaller buttons, the type of fabric used, ruffles. Add ^^ to slide
  • Add another difference; fendi and karl
  • Figure out videos
  • Post punk = sexy, dark and energetic Very eerie, haunting designs with a bright message behind it.
  • Shows very tough, dark lookm; but also introduces the soft femininity.
  • Loos as if it came out of the ocean; organic art.
  • Trademarks: flowing lines, use of embroidery, bold colours, print fabrics Picture on the right shows how also incorperated givenchy’s first collection (bettina blouse)
  • Givenchy is more elegant, cocktail wear. McQueen’s designs are more couture; rich fabric; volume – layered with tulle skirts Both show its medieval-esque and ornate design. Use of ruffles,
  • Add detailed picture
  • Like the sun; excellent detailling and earthy feel. With the colours of the fabrics; He can make this design look elegant and feminine, but adding a touch of dark, tough look in his designs. As if it shows like the sun and earth are forming together
  • Because this dress’ fabric and accessories are butterfly related, it shows mcqueen’s ability to create his designs and relate it to organic art. The butterflies acts like the ruffles for the collar of the dress
  • His haunting designs with it’s reptile patterned could show a beheaded reptile or his elegant designs with bedazzled embellishment could show a ballerina’s Pointe-show.
  • He knows the mind of the consumer; changes his vision as the season change
  • The green suit is how a basi bathingsuit looks like. Whereas gu
  • Transcript of "Art seminar ! (2) new"

    1. 1. From 1900s- Present Women's Fashion Early 1900s. Early 1990s.
    2. 2. Life of a Designer <ul><li>Draw, design, create, </li></ul><ul><li>& sell clothing. </li></ul>Influence on fashion: Reflects society, political & economical changes. Fashion Designer Emilio Pucci. Fashion Designer Karl Lagerfeld.
    3. 3. Life of a Designer Continued… Starting new trends. Overseeing production. Managing marketing & finances. Alexander McQueen. Butterfly Hat , Spring/ Summer 2008.
    4. 4. Fashion Terms Haute Couture : Custom made & create certain ‘looks.’ John Galliano, Dior. Dress , Spring 2007. ( Haute : High, Couture : Fashion)
    5. 5. Prêt-a-porter : Mass-production: many sizes. (Boutiques & Clothing Stores) Fashion Terms Continued… Tommy Hilfiger. Coat , 2009. (Ready-to-Wear)
    6. 6. Givenchy. Dress , Fall 2010. Can you guess which design represents Haute Couture & which design represents Pret-a-porter ? Gucci. Ensemble; Fall 2003
    7. 7. What is STYLE ? John Galliano, Dior. Dress , Spring 2007. Hubert de Givenchy. Haute Couture , Fall 2010. Karl Lagerfeld. Chanel House , Winter 2010.
    8. 8. Style Personality Defines character Creative International Christian Dior. Haute , Autumn/Winter 2010 . Christian Lacroix. Haute Couture , Spring 2009 (Paris). Emilio Pucci. Haute Couture , Fall 2009.
    9. 9. Style Invention Issey Miyake. Dress. Inspiration Unique Artistic expression Yves Saint Laurent. &quot;Mondrian&quot; day dress , autumn 1965. Karl Lagerfeld. Chanel House , Fall 2010.
    10. 10. Trends I.e. Harajuku Current style Followers Trend setters Colour Block Trend , London. Harajuku Girls. Harajuku Girls.
    11. 11. Evolution <ul><li>Manufacturing & Technology Changes: </li></ul>Innovations modernized life & impacted fashion industry. <ul><ul><li>Electricity powered clothing & textile factories. </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Trains brought goods to marketplaces. </li></ul></ul>
    12. 12. Evolution Continued … <ul><ul><li>Communications made selling clothes easier (phones). </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Photography showed buyers clothing designs. </li></ul></ul>
    13. 13. Society & Fashion <ul><li>As society changes, </li></ul><ul><li>so does one’s </li></ul><ul><li>fashion sense. </li></ul>Evolution Continued … Each has great influence over one another. <ul><ul><li>E.g.: women’s rights, economical change. </li></ul></ul>
    14. 14. Evolution Continued … Society & Fashion Continued… “ Fashion is a style … that is temporarily adopted [by a social group] … because that chosen style … is perceived to be socially appropriate for the time and situation” (Sproles & Burns, 1994). Gabrielle &quot;Coco&quot; Chanel. Day ensemble , ca. 1927. Cristobal Balenciaga. Cocktail Dress , Spring/ Summer 1948.
    15. 15. Changes in Society <ul><li>Late 1800s: </li></ul><ul><li>“ Perfect Fit” </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Corset </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Hourglass silhouette </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Lace, satin, beads, velvet, nets. </li></ul>Corset , 1902. Corset , 1800s. Hoop frames , 1800s.
    16. 16. Changes in Society Continued… Early 1900s: Looser Gowns: “ Straight Look” Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Gabrielle &quot;Coco&quot; Chanel. Day ensemble , ca. 1927. Cristobal Balenciaga. Day dress , ca. 1960–64.
    17. 17. <ul><li>Present: </li></ul><ul><li>More freedom: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Baggy/ fitted </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Many different styles (ie. Dresses, pants, shirts, unisex clothing, etc.) </li></ul></ul><ul><li>1900s trends: </li></ul><ul><li>making a comeback. </li></ul><ul><li>More revealing </li></ul>Changes in Society Continued… Christian Dior. &quot;Chérie&quot; Dinner Dress, Spring/ Summer 1947. Alexander McQueen. Dress; Spring 2011.
    18. 18. In the 1800s, the figure of a woman was tightly fitted, & greatly emphasized the rear. In the Past… Dress , 1800ss. Corset , 1800s. Silhouette , 1800s.
    19. 19. Wire frames were used to emphasize womanly features (were put underneath dresses & skirts). In the Past… Continued… Dress , 1800s. Wire Skirt , 1800s.
    20. 20. In the Past… Continued… Different types of hoop framing. Hoop frames , 1800s.
    21. 21. Transition from the 1800s to the 1900s Dress , 1800ss. Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Leave behind the form- fitting corsets & puffy skirts & start to embrace the loose & simple cut garments. Mariano Fortuny was one of the 1 st designers to radically change the silhouette of women’s dress.
    22. 22. DESIGNERS DAY 1 <ul><li>Mariano Fortuny </li></ul>Mariano Fortuny. Fortuny House in Venice , until 1949.
    23. 23. Mariano Y Madrazo Fortuny Painted, photographed, worked with textiles, & clothing. Disliked trendiness & commercialism of fashion. Fashion did not interest Fortuny, for him, fashion was art. 1871-1949 Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907.
    24. 24. M a r i a n o F o r t u n y Peplos Kore , Acropolis, Athens, c.530 BC (1.17m)  Acropolis Museum, Athens KORE: KOUROS: Kouros, Tenea c. 550 BC (1.35m) Glyptothek, Munich Dress Design (Delphos Gown): Classical Greek-inspired. Based on Kore & Kouros sculptures.
    25. 25. What similarities do you notice between the Kore Statue and the Delphos Gown ? Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Peplos Kore , Acropolis, Athens, c.530 BC (1.17m) Acropolis Museum, Athens Mariano Fortuny
    26. 26. Mariano Fortuny What other similarities do you notice between these two images ? Peplos Kore , Acropolis, Athens, c.530 BC (1.17m)  Acropolis Museum, Athens Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907.
    27. 27. M a r i a n o F o r t u n y Peplos Kore , Acropolis, Athens, c.530 BC (1.17m)  Acropolis Museum, Athens KORE: Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Wide neckline Wide neckline Loosely fitted Hung from shoulders
    28. 28. Mariano Fortuny <ul><li>Spanish painter/ designer of 1900s </li></ul><ul><li>Great influence: Modernism and Art Nouveau </li></ul><ul><li>Focused on artistic element of fashion </li></ul>Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907.
    29. 29. M a r i a n o F o r t u n y 1st textile creation: Knossos Scarves . Rectangular Cloth: silk veils, geometric shapes. Mariano Fortuny. Knossos Scarves , 1906.
    30. 30. MARIANO FORTUNY Mariano Fortuny. Knossos Scarves , 1906. Mariano Fortuny. Knossos Scarves , 1906. These scarves were Fortuny’s ‘stepping stones’ to creating his legendary Delphos Gowns. The same material used for the Knossos scarves, was also used in making the Delphos.
    31. 31. Mariano Fortuny. Coat, 1910s. Stencil Print: traditional Japanese pattern. Design: Straight- cut structure. Art nouveau piece. Mariano Fortuny Early Designs:
    32. 32. Mariano Fortuny. Gown, 1910s. Resembles kimono: Long, narrow collar & sleeves. Traditional Japanese patterns. Garment underneath: Delphos Gown. Mariano Fortuny Early Designs Continued…
    33. 33. Invention: DELPHOS GOWN (modern & original) Mariano Fortuny Pleated Dress This crimpled garment was seen as striking & dazzling. Pleats changed colour when the movement of the dress caught the reflection of the light. Mariano Fortuny. Delphos Gown, 1907.
    34. 34. Mariano Fortuny <ul><li>Original: </li></ul><ul><li>Batwing Sleeves, Wide Neckline, always had a Chord </li></ul>Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Fine silk, hung loosely, gently surrounds the body.
    35. 35. Mariano Fortuny Long, (usually with train), Venetian glass beads at side seams, armholes function as weights for dress. Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907.
    36. 36. Mariano Fortuny Mariano Fortuny. Tunic and Pants, 1910s. Delphos Gown : Intended to show natural beauty of body’s shape. Simple dress, with loose silhouette. Inspiration : Classical Greek & Medieval Periods. Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907.
    37. 37. Mariano Fortuny Mariano Fortuny. Dress, 1930s. Renaissance pattern made by Fortuny. Mariano Fortuny. Dress, 1930s. Fortuny later began using velvet, which he eventually used to cover his Delphos Gowns.
    38. 38. Mariano Fortuny Mariano Fortuny is known to have broken through the corset & tight silhouette era, only to replace them with long, loose, & flowing garments. Because his clothing was very distinctive, many designers have used his designs for inspiration & have heavily relied on his art for their starting point in fashion. Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907.
    39. 39. A great example of a fashion designer who has definite similarities in her designs with those of Fortuny’s is Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Gabrielle &quot;Coco&quot; Chanel Evening Dress , ca. 1926–27.
    40. 40. C O C O C H A N E L
    41. 41. Coco Chanel “ A girl should be two things: Classy & Fabulous .” -Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel 1883-1971
    42. 42. Coco Chanel Chanel was known for her Avant Garde style. Avant Garde: Refers to people or works that are experimental & innovative. Gabrielle &quot;Coco&quot; Chanel. Evening ensemble , 1936. Gabrielle &quot;Coco&quot; Chanel. Evening dress , 1938.
    43. 43. <ul><li>COCO CHANEL </li></ul>Gabrielle &quot;Coco&quot; Chanel. Day ensemble , ca. 1927 French fashion designer of 1920s. Simplicity & Elegance: Chic & Practical. Simple, sophisticated designs (functional styling). Gabrielle &quot;Coco&quot; Chanel. Shirt , ca. 1935–37
    44. 44. Coco Chanel Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Coat and Hat, c.1920 & late 1910s. Opened her first hat shop in 1910. Later added 2 more stores & began selling clothing. In the 1900s, no outfit was complete without a hat!
    45. 45. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Evening Dress, c. 1920. Coco Chanel Her pieces resembled those of Fortuny’s. Mariano Fortuny. Evening Gown (Delphos Gown) , 1907. Gabrielle &quot;Coco&quot; Chanel. Day Dress , ca. 1924.
    46. 46. COCO CHANEL Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Dress, c. 1926. Her designs proved that clothing could be both classic & casual. Gabrielle &quot;Coco&quot; Chanel Evening coat , ca. 1927.
    47. 47. Coco Chanel Had strong belief that women’s clothing needed to posses functional features (especially during both wars). Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Dress, c. 1927. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Dress , c. 1928. Combined masculine tailoring & women’s clothing. The “Little Black Dress”
    48. 48. Coco Chanel 1925: Introduced legendary Chanel suit with the collarless jacket & well-fitted skirt. Style element of men’s wear & emphasizes comfort. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Chanel Suit , 1929.
    49. 49. Mariano Fortuny. Tunic and Pants, 1910s. Coco Chanel Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Day Ensemble , c.1927. Both designers incorporated a straight, loose fitting feel in their designs.
    50. 50. Coco Chanel Took pride in wearing her creations, even more so because she was a working woman. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Day Ensemble , c. 1928. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Day Ensemble , c. 1927. Her signature look, paired with strands of pearls.
    51. 51. Coco Chanel Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Dress , c. 1935. As lightweight materials started to popularize, Chanel began using prints & patterns which incorporated many colours. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Evening Dress , c. 1930. Chanel’s use of lace in large amounts was shocking because it was known to be used for lingerie.
    52. 52. Coco Chanel Through the years, Chanel was consistent with her designs. Today, the Chanel Suit & the Little Black Dress are well- known & easily recognized worldwide. Gabrielle &quot;Coco&quot; Chanel. Evening dress , 1938. Gabrielle &quot;Coco&quot; Chanel. Evening ensemble , 1936. Gabrielle &quot;Coco&quot; Chanel. Cocktail ensemble , ca. 1964. Gabrielle &quot;Coco&quot; Chanel. Day ensemble , ca. 1927.
    53. 53. Coco Chanel Although her popularity decreased after World War II, she staged a comeback in the 1950s, partly in reaction to Christian Dior’s &quot;New Look“. Chanel went on to become one the most important figures in the history of 20th century fashion.
    54. 54. Balenciaga Cristobal
    55. 55. Cristobal Balenciaga Master of fabric design & creation. Fashion innovator. 1895-1972 “ Women did not have to be perfect or even beautiful to wear his clothes. His clothes made them beautiful.” - Longtime Client
    56. 56. Cristobal Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga. Dress (Sketch), November 1948. Altered women’s silhouette. Balenciaga was one of the few designers who could actually cut & sew.
    57. 57. Cristobal Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga. Day Dress, Autumn/ Winter 1948. Created complex forms with cutting techniques. Cristobal Balenciaga. Day Dress (Close-up), Autumn/ Wionter 1949. Elegant & classic, this dress shape was similar to the garment shape of the 19 th century. Dress , 1800ss.
    58. 58. Cristobal Balenciaga used a lot of fabric, but dresses were very light. Cristobal Balenciaga. Evening Coat, Autumn/ Winter 1949. The rolled collar on his Evening Coat puts great emphasis on the individual’s slender neck. (Gives coat more of dramatic look.) Cristobal Balenciaga. Evening dress , Fall/Winter 1965–66 . (Effect was due to refined technique.) Balenciaga
    59. 59. Cristobal Balenciaga Balenciaga’s designs embodied fluidity & grace. Cristobal Balenciaga. Cocktail Dress , 1955. Cristobal Balenciaga. Cocktail Dress (Sketch) , 1955. Balenciaga’s style hinted at the classic & elegance from the past.
    60. 60. Cristobal Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga. Cocktail Dress , 1955. Dress , 1800s. His Cocktail Dress took inspiration from the late 19 th century bustle style. (I.e. movement/ commotion). Wire Skirt , 1800s.
    61. 61. Cristobal Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga. Cocktail Dress , Spring/ Summer 1948. Evening coat , fall/winter 1950 Cristobal Balenciaga
    62. 62. Cristobal Balenciaga Evening dress , fall/winter 1950 Cristobal Balenciaga Evening wrap , 1954–55 Cristobal Balenciaga
    63. 63. Cristobal Balenciaga Day dress , 1955–56 Cristobal Balenciaga Evening dress , ca. 1959 Cristobal Balenciaga
    64. 64. Cristobal Balenciaga. Day dress , ca. 1960–64. Day coat , 1964 Cristobal Balenciaga
    65. 65. Evening gown , 1965 Cristobal Balenciaga Dress ensemble , ca. 1965–66 Cristobal Balenciaga
    66. 68. <ul><li>- Leading designer of </li></ul><ul><li>the 1920-30’s </li></ul><ul><li>- Was known for her unusual </li></ul><ul><li>designs and flair for the unusual. </li></ul><ul><li>Biggest rival of Coco Chanel </li></ul><ul><li>at that time </li></ul><ul><li>Was not a trained seamstress. </li></ul>Elsa Schiaparelli
    67. 69. <ul><li>She began to make a name for herself with her black knit sweaters with a white bowtie pattern knitted in. </li></ul>Designs
    68. 70. <ul><li>First designer to introduce shoulder pads and the use of hot pink within her designs; called it “shocking pink” </li></ul><ul><li>1947 she introduced animal prints and zippers dyed the same colours as the fabrics. </li></ul><ul><li>Well known for her surrealist designs in the 1930’s. </li></ul><ul><li>Incorporated several two-piece dining suits for woman </li></ul>Continued
    69. 71. Evening jacket , 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli Evening jacket , 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli
    70. 72. Elsa Schiaparelli, 1938 shocking-pink and black striped evening gown Elsa Schiaparelli, Evening Gown
    71. 73. Elsa Schiaparelli, The 1937 Lobster Dress Schiaparelli's Fall-Winter 1937-38, Shoe hat Elsa Schiaparelli, Tear Illusion Dress, 1938 “ Surrealism is an artistic movement and a philosophy that first gained popularity in the 1920s. It was a movement that believed traditional art should be replaced with anything &quot;anti-art&quot; and focused on the ridiculous, the absurd, and a basic disregard for form. Surrealism was a reaction to the philosophy of rationalism “(philosophy) the doctrine that knowledge is acquired by reason without resort to experience “, which many felt had caused, through the Industrial Revolution, the disaster of World War I. “
    72. 74. Chanel vs. Schiaparelli Evening jacket , 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Day Ensemble , c. 1927.
    73. 75. Lady Gaga at the AMAs, 2009. Schiaparelli Skeleton Dress, 1938. Lady Gaga, Lobster Hat Striped Wedge Shoe
    74. 76. Christian Dior
    75. 77. Christian Dior <ul><li>“ Zest is the secret of all beauty. There is no beauty that is attractive without zest.” </li></ul><ul><li>-Christian Dior </li></ul>1905- 1957
    76. 78. Christian Dior Created a new look: Flower Women. Composed of rounded, soft shoulders, a narrow waist, & full skirt.
    77. 79. Christian Dior Outfits normally paired with: A hat (tilted to the side), gloves, & simple jewellery.
    78. 80. Christian Dior Dior used expensive fabrics to make his clothes Chérie dinner dress for example was made out of silk &quot;Chérie&quot; dinner dress, spring/summer 1947
    79. 81. Christian Dior <ul><li>&quot;Bar&quot; suit and jacket, spring/summer 1947 </li></ul><ul><li>Rounded shoulders </li></ul><ul><li>Very narrow waist </li></ul><ul><li>Full skirt </li></ul>&quot;Chérie&quot; dinner dress, spring/summer 1947 Sloped shoulder Narrow waist Full skirt
    80. 82. Christian Dior <ul><li>&quot;Abandon&quot; afternoon dress , fall/winter 1948–49 </li></ul><ul><li>Full skirt </li></ul><ul><li>Narrow waist </li></ul><ul><li>Soft shoulders </li></ul>Different styles Same features which are a narrow waist, soft rounded shoulders, and a full skirt
    81. 83. Christian Dior <ul><li>Designed by John Galliano </li></ul><ul><li>Resembles the “new look” </li></ul><ul><li>Soft rounded shoulders </li></ul><ul><li>Narrow waist </li></ul><ul><li>Full skirt </li></ul>Fall 2010 Couture
    82. 85. <ul><li>- Known best for his revolution of textile in the fifties and sixties. </li></ul><ul><li>Pucci’s career began by luck, he was skiing and a reporter (Harpers Bazaar) noticed his uniform. </li></ul>
    83. 86. DESIGNS <ul><li>Known best for his revolution of textile in the fifties and sixties. </li></ul><ul><li>This revolution brought a new era to fashion, the previous designs featuring dull colours and heavy fabrics was now passé. </li></ul>
    84. 87. Emilio Pucci, dresses
    85. 88. Pucci’s success brought several opportunities his way. One being him offered to design uniforms for airlines. He designed bright, patterned uniforms, he even included a glass helmet to keep the stewardess’ hair in place Emilio Pucci, Air Hostess Uniform and Helmet
    86. 89. POPULARITY <ul><li>What made Pucci so popular was when consumer discovered how light weight his silk dresses were. They were also wrinkle free so several could be fit into a bag making travel very easy. </li></ul><ul><li>It was also, unlined, which meant it was shaped and would caress the body, moving with their motions, opposed to it being heavy. This allowed it to be versatile, used for poolside relaxation or even dinner parties. </li></ul>
    87. 90. Vintage 1960s Emilio Pucci Dress Creation and Design - 1964 - Emilio Pucci
    88. 91. Victoria Beckham wearing Emilio Pucci
    89. 92. Emilio Pucci, Fall 2008 Emilio Pucci, Winter 2010-11
    90. 93. Hubert De Givenchy
    91. 94. Hubert De Givenchy <ul><li>“ Hair style is the final tip-off whether or not a woman really knows herself.” </li></ul><ul><li>-Hubert De Givenchy </li></ul>
    92. 95. <ul><li>Givenchy’s trademark was flowing lines, use of embroidered, bold colours and print fabrics </li></ul><ul><li>Shows quality, elegance, and lady like fashion </li></ul><ul><li>Designed “fun” clothes inspired by modern artist </li></ul><ul><li>embroidered peapod motifs </li></ul><ul><li>Example of organic art by adding peapods </li></ul>
    93. 96. Hubert De Givenchy <ul><li>Evening gown, ca. 1968 </li></ul><ul><li>Used a bright salmon colour </li></ul><ul><li>Use of embroidered by adding feathers </li></ul><ul><li>Influenced by organic art by using feathers </li></ul><ul><li>Evening gown, 1963 </li></ul><ul><li>Used bright coral colour </li></ul><ul><li>Use of embroidered by adding beads and coral pieces </li></ul><ul><li>Influenced by organic art </li></ul>
    94. 97. Hubert De Givenchy <ul><li>Embroidered beads and coral pieces </li></ul>Evening gown, 1963
    95. 98. Hubert De Givenchy <ul><li>Worn in Sabrina 1954 by Audrey Hepburn </li></ul><ul><li>use of embroidered </li></ul><ul><li>Use of organic art </li></ul><ul><li>All three dresses are very different but show the use of embroidered, influence of organic art, and bold colours </li></ul>
    96. 99. Hubert De Givenchy <ul><li>Bettina blouse was part of his first collection </li></ul><ul><li>He used this blouse as his signature </li></ul><ul><li>This design still has an impact today </li></ul><ul><li>Galleries Lafayette one of Pairs top department stores uses it as their symbol </li></ul>Bettina Blouse
    97. 100. Hubert De Givenchy <ul><li>Designed by Riccardo Tisci </li></ul><ul><li>Riccardo’s design also shows the use of embroidered </li></ul><ul><li>Also shows the use of organic art by adding the feathers </li></ul>Fall 2010 Couture Collection
    98. 101. Yves Saint Laurent
    99. 102. Yves Saint Laurent <ul><li>&quot;dressing is a way of life&quot;. </li></ul><ul><li>-Yves Saint Laurent </li></ul>
    100. 103. <ul><li>Frequently used ethnic themes in designs </li></ul><ul><li>Used bright colours that contrasted with black </li></ul><ul><li>Had a more masculine flavour </li></ul>
    101. 104. Yves Saint Laurent <ul><li>fall/winter 1965–1966 </li></ul>Contrast in bright colours with black <ul><li>Showed more masculine features in designs </li></ul><ul><li>created a women pantsuit </li></ul>
    102. 105. <ul><li>Spring/Summer 1967 “African look” </li></ul><ul><li>First to create a “back to nature” look </li></ul><ul><li>Used an ethnic theme </li></ul><ul><li>Shows a contrast in the bright colours and black </li></ul>Decorated with seashells and tooth like beads
    103. 106. <ul><li>fall/winter 2004–2005 </li></ul><ul><li>Designed by Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent House </li></ul><ul><li>Used an ethnic theme (more of an Asian style) </li></ul><ul><li>Spring 2001 Couture </li></ul><ul><li>Pantsuit </li></ul><ul><li>A masculine design </li></ul>
    104. 107. Jean- Paul Gaultier
    105. 108. Jean- Paul Gaultier Avant Garde: Gaultier is always experimenting & innovating his designs. He started experimenting with fashion at a young age. (I.e. at 13, he designed a whole collection of clothing for both his mother & grandmother.) French Fashion Designer ! 1952
    106. 109. Jean- Paul Gaultier Edgy Collections. Growing up, Gaultier had a passion for image. (I.e. Being well- known.) <ul><li>detailed workmanship </li></ul>Gaultier’s Early Sketches. <ul><li>KNOWLEDGE of fashion history </li></ul><ul><li>master of technique </li></ul><ul><li>imaginative flair </li></ul>
    107. 110. Jean- Paul Gaultier Gaultier took undergarments & incorporated them in outwear. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Dress , Spring/ Summer 1987. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Dress , Spring/ Summer 1987. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Jacket, Brassiere and Pants , Spring/ Summer 1987. He became known as the “enfant terrible,” meaning the “bad boy” of fashion .
    108. 111. Jean- Paul Gaultier These unique designs were his signature look. In 1990, Madonna actually wore Gaultier’s garments, which greatly increased their popularity. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Dress , Spring/ Summer 1987. Madonna. Singer , 1990.
    109. 112. Jean- Paul Gaultier Some of his most recognizable cutting- edge designs included jackets, dresses, & jumpsuits. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Jumpsuit , Spring/ Summer 1990. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Top, Skirt, and Gloves , Autumn/ Winter 1987. The artificial glow in fabric has been taken out, so material appears as real skin.
    110. 113. Jean- Paul Gaultier Gaultier's innovations have always pushed the boundaries of fashion . Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Spring/ Summer 2001. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Fall 2003.
    111. 114. Jean- Paul Gaultier Because of the success of his brand, Jean Paul Gaultier, also named as the successor of YSL, was hired as the creative director of Hermes in 2003/2004.
    112. 115. Jean- Paul Gaultier Jean- Paul Gaultier always held the audience’s interest during his seasonal Houte Couture fashion shows due to them being very extravagant & outrageous. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Spring/ Summer 2004. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Spring/ Summer 2008. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Winter 2005.
    113. 116. Jean- Paul Gaultier Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Spring/ Summer 2009. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Winter 2009. All shows consisted of a theme & was mainly featured about Gaultier’s latest exotic destination.
    114. 117. Jean- Paul Gaultier <ul><li>Jean- Paul Gaultier’s inspiration: </li></ul><ul><li>Street design. </li></ul><ul><li>Couture from the elite. </li></ul><ul><li>Tradition; used same fabrics that was normally used in couture. </li></ul>Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Winter 2009. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Winter 2010. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture , Spring/ Summer 2010.
    115. 118. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture . Gaultier is probably one of the most targeted (by critics) of all designers because of his originality & wild creations.
    116. 119. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Headgear (Haute Couture), Autumn/ Winter 2008-09. He has made a great impact on the fashion society & has reinvented the concept of Haute Couture, by raising the standards for all future designers. Jean- Paul Gaultier. Haute Couture.
    117. 121. “ What is clothing?” The “matrix” of Miyake’s designs <ul><li>Attempted to find universal clothing </li></ul><ul><li>Tried to bring eastern and western designs together </li></ul>
    118. 122. Designs <ul><li>Often tested the boundaries of haut couture </li></ul><ul><li>Investigated fashion from around the world </li></ul><ul><li>Based several designs off the kimono </li></ul>Traditional Japanese kimono Issey Miyake, wind coat
    119. 123. <ul><li>Miyake would create designs with geometric shape and effortless amounts of drapery influenced by Madeleine Voinnet </li></ul>Evening dress , 1938 Madeleine Vionnet Issy Miyake, Fall 2010
    120. 124. <ul><li>Miyake attempts to design clothing not based on how it looks from the outside body, but how the materials interact and touch the body of those wearing it. (Focused on experimenting with materials) </li></ul><ul><li>Miyake has been described to base his designs on three things, functionality, technology and beauty. </li></ul><ul><li>Japanese culture meets Western culture </li></ul><ul><li>Drapery </li></ul><ul><li>Functionality, will keep you warm. </li></ul><ul><li>Geometric shapes (patterns, how it moves on the body) </li></ul>1983, wool coat, Issey Miyake Issey Miyake, wind coat, fall/winter 1976-77
    121. 125. <ul><li>Miyake created the line “Pleats Please” </li></ul><ul><li>Garments made out of light polyester and fed through pleating machine, the opposite of how it is usually done. </li></ul>Issey Miyake, Pleats Please line .
    122. 126. Issey Miyake, staircase
    123. 127. Issey Miyake, Pleats Please line, paper dress
    124. 128. Wool knit, 1989, Issey Miyake Ensemble, 1983, Issey Miyake
    125. 129. Gianni Versace
    126. 130. Gianni Versace <ul><li>“ I like the body. I like to design everything to do with the body.” </li></ul><ul><li>-Gianni Versace </li></ul>
    127. 131. <ul><li>Designed curve hugging gowns </li></ul><ul><li>Liked to create skin-tight with low cuts and high slits on the skirts </li></ul><ul><li>first to show tights as pants, and first to bring back the mini skirt </li></ul>Spring/Summer 1991
    128. 132. <ul><li>fall/winter 1991–1992 </li></ul><ul><li>Very slim and tight </li></ul><ul><li>Has a high slit </li></ul><ul><li>spring/summer 1994 </li></ul><ul><li>Slim and tight </li></ul><ul><li>Has a high slit all the way up to the waist </li></ul>The high slit Very thin & tight
    129. 133. <ul><li>1997–1998 </li></ul><ul><li>Skin tight </li></ul><ul><li>Emphasizes curves </li></ul><ul><li>Spring/Summer 1994 </li></ul><ul><li>Skin tight </li></ul><ul><li>Emphasizes curves </li></ul><ul><li>Has a high slit </li></ul>
    130. 134. Spring 2008 Couture Spring 2008 Couture <ul><li>Skin tight </li></ul><ul><li>Hugs curves </li></ul>
    131. 135. Karl Lagerfeld
    132. 136. Karl is one of the most multitalented designers known today. Maintained his reputation through his successful and strong collections and runway shows
    133. 137. <ul><li>Signature look: </li></ul><ul><li>Powdered white hair in a pony tail </li></ul><ul><li>Black suit </li></ul><ul><li>Collared white dress shirt buttoned up </li></ul>Even his over-all look reflects his sophisticated style in his designs.
    134. 138. Designs <ul><ul><li>Black & white with occasional colours </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Feminine </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Simplicity </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Quirky yet classic </li></ul></ul>Karl Lagefeld. Ensemble. Spring 2010
    135. 139. <ul><li>Combining immediacy of ready-to-wear with the elegance of couture. </li></ul>Karl Lagerfeld Dress for House of Chanel, 2011
    136. 140. Ability to mix quirky with classic changed the direction of modern fashion Karl Lagerfeld Suit. Chanel Spring 2008
    137. 141. An expert at combining elements of street style with elegance of haute couture. Karl Lagerfeld Dress. Fall 2010
    138. 142. <ul><li>Currently works for three houses: </li></ul><ul><li>Fendi </li></ul><ul><li>Chanel </li></ul><ul><li>Karl Lagerfeld (his own) </li></ul>Karl Lagerfeld. Ensemble. Spring 2010. Karl Lagerfeld. Ensemble; for Fendi . Fall 2007 Karl Lagerfeld. Ensemble for Chanel; Spring 2009
    139. 143. Lagerfeld for Fendi Karl Lagerfeld. Ensemble; for Fendi . Fall 2007 <ul><li>Designs furs for fendi. </li></ul><ul><li>Strip the traditional fur coats to the thinnest layer = simple, light weight coats </li></ul><ul><li>Careful design and elegance, sophisticated </li></ul><ul><li>Treats the fur like fabric: Silk, wool and cashmere are mixed in with the fur </li></ul>
    140. 144. KL. <ul><ul><li>Bold tailoring </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>easy-to-wear pieces </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Black and white, with the occasional colours </li></ul></ul>Karl Lagerfeld Dress. Fall 2010
    141. 145. Chanel <ul><li>brought back the label to high fashion. </li></ul><ul><li>Produced many styles on the signature tweed suits </li></ul><ul><li>mix with street style </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Stretched chanel look to embrace younger customers </li></ul></ul>Karl Lagerfeld (Chanel) Suit. Spring 2008
    142. 146. Lagerfeld vs. Chanel Karl Lagerfeld. Suit . 1992. Karl Lagerfeld. Haus of Chanel. Spring 2011 Simple, tailored traditional style of Chanel; which includes the feminine vibe Padded shoulder pads Low cut
    143. 147. <ul><li>Details used in Lagerfeld’s designs for Chanel presented the house’s personality: femininity </li></ul>Karl Lagerfeld. Suit for Chanel; Fall 2010 Karl Lagerfeld. Suit for Chanel; Spring 2011 camellia-trimmed and beading Fabircs used; colours feminine; faint glitter Cropped sleeves and waist of jackets Layers used for skirts
    144. 148. Karl Lagerfeld. Suit for House of Chanel. 1992 Karl Lagerfeld Suit for House of Chanel, 2011 This is an example of how fashion can change over time. Puffed Sleeves, the collar, smaller buttons, the type of fabric he used; more feminine Adding simple designs modernizes the clothing
    145. 149. Now lets see if you can tell the difference
    146. 150. <ul><li>Which of these designs are from the house of Chanel and his own house?; </li></ul><ul><li>How do you know? </li></ul><ul><li>Karl Lagerfeld. Suit. For Chanel. Spring 2008 </li></ul><ul><li>Karl Lagerfeld. Dress Spring 2010 </li></ul>
    147. 152. At his most recent fashion show, (Fall 2010) he had a sculpture of a lion made just for this show Shows how creative, inspiring and determination, dedication he puts on his work.
    148. 153. <ul><li>http://watch.fashiontelevision.com/fashion-icons/designers/karl-lagerfeld/clip98687#clip98687 </li></ul><ul><li>2:53 </li></ul><ul><li>http://watch.fashiontelevision.com/fashion-icons/designers/karl-lagerfeld-special/#clip217358 </li></ul><ul><li>1:20, 3:25 </li></ul>
    149. 155. LACROIX <ul><li>Christian LaCroix has been accredited with designing pieces that are glamorous, dramatic and expensive looking. </li></ul>Lacroix, evening dress
    150. 156. <ul><li>Began his career while working for Hermès and Guy Paulin. </li></ul><ul><li>Became a designer for Jean Patou in 1981 where he dazzled the industry. </li></ul><ul><li>Introduced the frou-frou petticoat and puffball skirt </li></ul>Petticoat Lacroix, pleated shirt
    151. 157. <ul><li>His collections are always based on exotic and lavish inspirations such as primitives, modern gypsies and even a homage to Lady Diana Cooper. </li></ul>Lacroix, Spring ‘09, Gypsy collection
    152. 158. <ul><li>“ I want to get back to the position where the couture becomes a kind of laboratory of ideas, the way it was with Schiaparelli 40 years ago” </li></ul><ul><li>- Christian LaCroix </li></ul>LaCroix couture
    153. 159. Christian Lacroix, spring couture 2009 Christian Lacroix, Fall couture 2008
    154. 160. Christian Lacroix, Fall couture, 2008 Christian Lacroix, Patchwork dress
    155. 162. Signed to Givenchy in 1996 to replace John Galliano. But later parted ways and created his couture line: Alexander McQueen
    156. 163. Designs <ul><li>- Impeccable tailoring and detailing </li></ul><ul><li>- Post-punk </li></ul><ul><li>- Feminine, yet edgy </li></ul><ul><li>- Includes Animal-esque patterns </li></ul><ul><li>Geometric shapes </li></ul><ul><li>– purity of line and emphasis </li></ul><ul><li>- Fluid and elegant </li></ul>Alexander McQueen. Ensemble; Fall 2009
    157. 164. Alexander Mcqueen. Ensemble. Some of his designs are very tough, dark, edgy and
    158. 165. Alexander Mcqueen. Oyster Dress. 2003 But also create something elegant Corset. Very detailed Lots of ruffles, layering. Very luxe
    159. 166. McQueen for Givenchy <ul><li>Incorporated Givenchy’s trademarks </li></ul><ul><li>Shows quality, elegance and lady-like fashion </li></ul>Alexander McQueen. Dress; Spring 2011 Picture on the right shows how also incorporated Givenchy’s bettina blouse.
    160. 167. Takes part in Dior’s ‘New look” Cinched waist, puffy dress Exquisite detailing. Very tailored
    161. 168. Givenchy vs. McQueen Hubert Givenchy. Cocktail Ensemble , Spring/Summer1953 Alexander McQueen. Dress, Fall 2010 Givenchy is more elegant, cocktail wear McQueen’s designs are more couture
    162. 169. Alexander McQueen. Dress; Spring 2011 Influenced by organic art. leather pieces cut into flowers
    163. 170. Alexander McQueen. Dress, Fall 2010 Alexander McQueen. Dress, Summer 2010 Another example of organic art. This dress has an earthy feel; the colours used in the fabrics and how its flowy
    164. 171. Alexander Mcqueen. 2011 Alexander McQueen. Dress, Fall 2010
    165. 172. This butterfly effect represent ruffles Phillip Lim. 3.1 Sleeveless Dress; 2006 Alexander McQueen. Dress, Fall 2010
    166. 173. Alexander McQueen. Shoe, Spring 2010 Lobster Claw Lobster claw-inspired
    167. 174. <ul><li>Remembered for his memorable fashion shows, tailoring, creativity, imagination </li></ul>
    168. 176. <ul><li>First joined Gucci in 1990. </li></ul><ul><li>Reinvented Gucci’s style: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Witty and wonderful mix of tradition and modern innovation </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Also Worked for YSL in 2000 </li></ul>
    169. 177. <ul><li>Most influential designer in the world because of his knowledge in the marketing and business industry. </li></ul>
    170. 178. Designs <ul><li>Gloss, glamour and daring experimental designs </li></ul><ul><li>Known for his glamour, seductive, sexy designs </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Use of fabric (silk), colour used, etc. aesthetic designs </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Exposure of the skin </li></ul></ul>
    171. 179. Tom Ford. Ensemble, Evening. 1996-1997 Very simple and elegant, yet seductive. Cut-offs at the side Low cut Thin straps Uses silk for the dress to fall on the body, highlighting every curve
    172. 180. Gucci. Beachwear; 1970s. Gucci’s design influenced Ford’s use of cut-offs This design also shows how it influenced Ford’s style as sexy. J.Crew Swimwear;
    173. 181. Tom Ford (YDL) Dress ; spring/summer 2002 <ul><li>YSL was known for his seductive evening gowns. </li></ul><ul><li>Ford incorporated this with this dress </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Use of sheer fabric and many cut-offs to expose the skin. </li></ul></ul>
    174. 182. Tom Ford (Gucci). Dress; spring/summer 2003 Exposure of the leg and the deep v-neck shows ford’s trademark style.
    175. 183. <ul><li>These designers have impacted the world of fashion drastically todays society </li></ul><ul><li>Continue to do so for future designers </li></ul><ul><li>Give inspirations. </li></ul><ul><li>Provides insight to the future. </li></ul><ul><li>They continue to show their collections as the seasons change and new year has. </li></ul><ul><li>The designers grow as they show each of their collection. </li></ul>
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