It's better to maximize resolution then crop the part you want in Photoshop instead of digital zoom
Bag – shock proof, water proof, convenient Memory cards – better to buy 2 2gb than 1 4gb so than if it gets corrupted it will not damage all the pictures Filter – polarizer makes colors stand out, good for travelling (makes the sky bluer) - removes reflections buy circular/neutral polarizer ) Tripod – heavy, sturdy, carbon and not plastic, can be repositioned sideways upwards and different angles Lens hood – blocks the light that comes in the lens Lens cleaning kit – blow brush, lens tissue and cleaner fluid - make sure there is no dust first before using the lens tissue or it will be like sanding your lens - wipe glass in circular motion from inside out - use anti-static brush
When you do override your camera and choose a specific ISO you’ll notice that it impacts the aperture and shutter speed needed for a well exposed shot. For example - if you bumped your ISO up from 100 to 400 you’ll notice that you can shoot at higher shutter speeds and/or smaller apertures.
When choosing the ISO setting I generally ask myself the following four questions: Light - Is the subject well lit? Grain - Do I want a grainy shot or one without noise? Tripod - Am I using a tripod? Moving Subject - Is my subject moving or stationary? Situations where you might need to push ISO to higher settings include: Indoor Sports Events - where your subject is moving fast yet you may have limited light available. Concerts - also low in light and often ‘no-flash’ zones Art Galleries, Churches etc- many galleries have rules against using a flash and of course being indoors are not well lit. Birthday Parties - blowing out the candles in a dark room can give you a nice moody shot which would be ruined by a bright flash. Increasing the ISO can help capture the scene.
The f-number is the ratio of that focal length divided by the diameter of the aperture (the width of the opening). when the aperture of a 200mm lens (focal length) is 50 mm (aperture opening) wide, your f-stop will be f/4, because the ratio of 200/50 equals four. If you &quot;stop down&quot; your aperture to half that size - 25 mm wide - your f-stop will be f/8. (200 divided by 25.) So the &quot;f-number&quot; gets larger as you let in less light.
This technique can come in particularly handy in portraiture. Tightly focus on the subject's face and open up your aperture to blur whatever is in the background. You'll have a portrait that jumps out at you you can use depth of field to make one object stand out from a large group of similar objects
you want to use deep depth of field – so that just about everything in the picture is in focus. This is commonly used in landscape and architectural photography, and a small aperture is the way to go
-More blur for low ISO -too long shutter would make movement invisible -Flash also effective for freezing
Under exposure caused by lack of light to add light we either use - longer aperture or slower shutter Overexposed is caised by too much light to reduce light we either use a - small aperture or faster shutter speed
“ To me, photography is an art of observation . It's about finding something interesting in an ordinary place... I've found it has little to do with the things you see and everything to do with the way you see them.” ~ Elliot Erwitt
"I wish more people felt that photography was an adventure the same as life itself and felt that their individual feelings were worth expressing. To me, that makes photography more exciting. ~ Harry Callahan"
Have high quality lenses and advanced features for creative control
May have mega telephoto zooms lenses while others have wide angle lenses
May accept accessories and add-ons including converter lenses, filters, remote controls and external flashes.
May have image stabilization
Single-Lens Reflex Camera This cross-section (side-view) of the optical components of an SLR shows how the light passes through the lens assembly (1), is reflected by the mirror (2) and is projected on the matte focusing screen (5) . Via a condensing lens (6) and internal reflections in the pentaprism (7) the image appears in the eye piece (8) . When an image is taken, the mirror moves in the direction of the arrow, the focal plane shutter (3) opens, and the image is projected in the film (4) in exactly the same manner as on the focusing screen.
A single ray hitting the tree will diffuse in all directions, but only a very tiny sliver of that light will go through the small hole.
If you were sitting in this tent in the middle of the floor and you closed one eye and looked through the hole from there, you would only see a very tiny part of the tree at once. If you move to the right a bit, you will see the left of the tree. If you move up, you will see further down the tree.
Your view of the tree is opposite to the direction of your movement.
At its simplest - the reason we adjust white balance is to get the colors in your images as accurate as possible.
The range in different temperatures ranges from the very cool light of blue sky through to the very warm light of a candle.
We don’t generally notice this difference in temperature because our eyes adjust automatically for it. So unless the temperature of the light is very extreme a white sheet of paper will generally look white to us. However a digital camera doesn’t have the smarts to make these adjustments automatically and sometimes will need us to tell it how to treat different light.
Here are some of the basic White Balance settings you’ll find on cameras:
Auto - this is where the camera makes a best guess on a shot by shot basis. You’ll find it works in many situations but it’s worth venturing out of it for trickier lighting.
Tungsten - this mode is usually symbolized with a little bulb and is for shooting indoors, especially under tungsten (incandescent) lighting (such as bulb lighting). It generally cools down the colors in photos.
Fluorescent - this compensates for the ‘cool’ light of fluorescent light and will warm up your shots.
Daylight/Sunny - not all cameras have this setting because it sets things as fairly ‘normal’ white balance settings.
Cloudy - this setting generally warms things up a touch more than ‘daylight’ mode.
Flash - the flash of a camera can be quite a cool light so in Flash WB mode you’ll find it warms up your shots a touch.
Shade - the light in shade is generally cooler (bluer) than shooting in direct sunlight so this mode will warm things up a little.
Better to take a large/high resolution and just down size it
JPEG not good for enlargement, if can shoot in RAW then do.
4. Exposing for the shot Exposure Triangle ISO - the measure of a digital camera sensor’s sensitivity to light Aperture - the size of the opening in the lens when a picture is taken Shutter Speed - the amount of time that the shutter is open
Every time you point your camera at a scene it needs to take a guess at what is important to you in the picture and which part you want to be exposed optimally. The metering mode you have your camera set to will signal to the camera how you want it to approach this task.
Overall Metering (Multi-segment/Zone metering)
- Camera attempts to take into consideration everything in your frame
- Numerous metering zones (35 points for Canon EOS 5D)
- It assesses overall lighting from all these zones and takes a best guess by averaging them to decide on how to expose the shot.
There are many other factors to consider in order to make pictures appear balanced. Some of these are as follows:
An object far from the center of the picture seems to have more weight than one near the center.
Objects in the upper part of a picture seem heavier than objects of the same size in the lower part of a picture.
Isolation seems to increase the weight of an object.
Intensely interesting objects seem to have more compositional weight.
Regular shapes seem to have more weight than irregular shapes.
Elements on the right side of an asymmetrical picture appear to have more weight than elements of the same size on the left side of the picture.
The directions in which figures, lines, and shapes appear to be moving within the picture area are important to balance; for example, a person may be walking in a direction, or his eyes may be looking in a direction, or the shape of some element creates a feeling of movement. When the feeling of direction is present within a scene, it tends to upset the balance if judged on the size of the subject alone.