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Towards Sust
Towards Sust
           tainable
Textile Manufa
             acturing
            Dr
             r. S. P. Abbas
           15 November  2012
for additional inform
for additional inform
                    mation contact
                    mation contact
            Dr. S. P
                   Pervez Abbas
             pscitn@
                   @cyber.net.pk
Sustainable 
Textiles?
What we are discussing g today?
• Sustainability and sus
                       stainable manufacturing
• Why suddenly sustain
  Why suddenly sustain
                     nability is under lime 
                     nability is under lime
  light?
    g
• Sustainability rating sy
                         ystem
• Sustainability in textile chain
• Measuring sustainability in textile chain
• N l i l ti / B i h
  New legislation / Buying‐houses requirement
                                      i     t
• Q/A
Sustainable developm
                   ment:
   It is the developme t th t meets the needs
      i th d      l    ent that    t th      d
   of the present without compromising the
   ability of future gen
                       nerations to meet their
   own needs.
Renewable resource
   6 of 42




             A substance of economic valu th t
             A bt          f       i   lue that can be replaced or 
                                                    b     l d
             replenished in the same amo
                                       ount.

             Some renewable resources h  have essentially an endless 
             supply, such as solar energy, wind energy and geothermal 
                  l     h      l             i d           d     h    l
             pressure, while other resourcces are considered renewable 
             even though some time or ef
                    h   h                 f
                                          ffort must go into their 
                                          ff                  h
             renewal, such as wood, oxyge  en, leather and fish.

             Most precious metals are con
                                        nsidered renewable as well; 
             even though they are not nat
                                        turally replaced, they can be 
             recycled because they are no
                                        ot destroyed during their 
             extraction and use.
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Resource – rate of use
   7 of 42




             Fifty years ago, the world was 
             Fift             th     l
                                                                Consumption                            Discovery
             consuming 4 billion barrrels of 
             oil per year and the aver
                                     rage 
             discovery was around 30
             discovery was around 30 billion
                                     0 billion.
                                     0

             Today we consume 30 billion 
             Today we consume 30 billion
             barrels per year and the 
             discovery rate is approacching 4 
             billion barrels of crude p
             billion barrels of crude per year.
                                      per year. 
                                      p

Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012            Asi
                                       ia newspaper, 4 May 2005, quoted by Rob Hopkins, The Transition Handbook, p. 21
Sustainable Manufacturing
            Manufacturing
Sustainable manufactu
                          uring
   9 of 42




             Sustainable manufacturing is defined as the 
                        bl      f             f       h
             creation of manufacture
             creation of manufacture products that use
                                    ed products that use 
                                    ed
             processes that are;
             I. non‐polluting,
             II. conserve energy and natural resources, and 
             II conserve energy and natural resources and
                  are
             III. economically sound a
                                     and safe for 
                  employees, communi i
                      l              ities, and consumers.”
                                     i        d           ”
                       Source: US Department of Commerce definition
                               Sustainable Manufacturing – National Council for Ad
                                                                                 dvanced Manufacturing (http://www.nacfam.org/ )  ‐ Definition
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Sustainability
  10 of 42




                                                   Banned  azo dyes
                                                   Formaldehyde
                                                   Liquid metal 
                                    CO2            Nickel
                                          Hea
                                            alth   Pollution
                                                   etc.
                            water
                                                    Safe working 
                                                    environment
                                                        i
                                                    Minimum wages
                                                    Working hours
                                                    Holidays
                                                    etc.


Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Our dreams
Our dreams
                                      Safe environment
     Clean Air
     Clean Air
                                         Enough water & 
 Safe & healthy                                         y
                                              electricity
 food
                                              Schools for all 
No GM food
No GM food                                         children
                                                    hild
Enough food
Enough food


   There is a growing awareness
                              s for Sustainability because 
       these dreams are in dan
                             nger – and we know it.
                 Our customers also know it.
Sustainable prac
Sustainable prac
               ctice
 Our commitment exxtends beyond our 
       company and customers.
       company and customers
 Our community and
              y d environment are 
          important as well.
Sustainability 
 u i bili
ra
 ating system
 ating system
Main rating tools
  14 of 42




             U.K. and Europe
             U.K. and Europe              Americas                            Rest of the World
                                                                              Rest of the World
             BREEAM (inc Eco‐homes)       LEED (U.S. & C
                                                       Canada)                Green Star (Australia)

             The Green Guide to           U.S. DOE (U.S
                                                      S. Department of        BEAM (Hong Kong
             Specification                Energy) Desig
                                                      gn Guide (U.S.)
             Office Scorer                WBDG (Whole Building
                                                 (                            LEED (China and India)
                                                                                   (               )
                                          Design Guide) (U.S.)
             ENVEST                       HOK Sustaina
                                          HOK Sustaina Design
                                                       able Design
                                                       able                   Greenmark
                                          Guide (U.S.)                        (Singapore)
             Sustainability Checklists              ada (Canada
                                          BREEAM Cana                         GBTool (South Africa)
             (e.g.) SEEDA; BRE)
             Environmental Impact         Green Globes
                                                     s (U.S. &
             Assessment (EIA)
             Assessment (EIA)             Canada)
             Strategic Environmental
             Assessment (SEA)
                                                                          Sources: RICS (2007) and Green Globes (2009)
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012                                International Comparison of Sustainable Rating Tools
Textile industry
  15 of 42




             The textile industry i
             Th t til i d t is one of the longest 
                                          f th l       t
             and most complicate
             and most complicate industrial chains
                                  ed industrial chains 
                                  ed
             of the manufacturing g industry.

             It involves actors from h
                i l             f m the agricultural, 
                                              i l     l
             chemical fibre, dyes & chemicals manuf., 
             chemical fibre dyes & chemicals manuf
             textile and apparel in
                          pp       ndustries, retail and 
                                            ,
             services sector, and wwaste treatment.
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Textile processing – ma
                            ajor concern 
  16 of 42




    • Mi i i
      Minimise pollution:
                 ll ti
             – air water and land
               air, water and land

    • Optimise resources
      Optimise resources
             – energy, water, chemicals
                   gy,      ,

    • Worker safety
    • Consumer safety and 
             satisfaction 

Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Textile value chain
  17 of 42


       major ecological & soc
                            cial challenges

                                  Water   Effluent   Energy    Chemistry Land            Society
             Cotton cultivation

             Spinning

             Weaving/knitting

             Wet processing

             Garment making


                                  Moderate       Larrge       Very large 
                      No effect    effect        effe
                                                    ect         effect
                                                                            Source: Otto group 2006
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Sustainability through
                                  h chemical selection
  18 of 42


             in textile manufacturi
                                  ing
             Measurement of all impact from chemical 
             usage
               Air, water and soil/lan
               Air water and soil/lannd
               CO2 emission
               Waste
               Health


Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Parameters – Sustainability mea
                                    asurement in wet processing 
  19 of 42



                                CO2     VOC’s
                                                    NO2
                                      SO2
                              CH4           UFP’s
                                                s
                            Emission
              Water
                                      noise                  Product     Textile
        Dyes & 
         y
      Chemicals
                                                           Solid waste
                                                                         Land and 
   Textile fiber                                                         water 
                                                          Liquid waste
                                                            q            pollution
             Energy

                                                             Energy
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Changing market  dyna
                          amics
  20 of 42




        • Chi – textile invigorating plan 2009 – 20
          China     il i i       i    l 2009 2011
                – Energy: 5 % reduction pe year for whole industry
                  Energy: 5 % reduction pe
                                         er year for whole industry
                                         er
                – Water consumption lowe
                                       ered by 7 % per year
                – Wastewater discharge lowered by 7 % per year
        • India – existing & foreseen water shortage
        • Bangladesh – gas shortage are prevalent
        • Pakistan shortage of electricity gas and water
          Pakistan – shortage of electricity, gas and water 
          already exists 
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012                            Source: Texworld, New York – Jan. 2012
Reducing water
        g      r consumption 
                          p
and saving energy are among  
          g     gy            g
 the highest priorities in the 
   textile industry today.
Cost analysis of a cotto
                             on t‐shirt
  22 of 42




                      Fiber             70 %
                      Utilities         15  0 %
                                        15 – 20 %
                      Labor            08 – 10 %
                      Dyes & Chemicals 03 – 05 %


               Biggest potential for 
                                                    Fiber
               cost reduction
                  t d ti
                                                    Utilities
                                                    Labor
                                                    Dyes & Chemicals




Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Towards sustainable textile manufacturing
Measuring sustainability in 
      textile
            e chain
Measuring sustainability – textile manufacturing
  25 of 42




             Life cycle assessment of textile
             Lif     l            t f t tiles
             Carbon footprint
             Water footprint
             Resources utilization
             Resources utilization
                 Water
                 Energy
                 Chemicals
             Assessment of Social responsib bility



Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Towards sustainable textile manufacturing
What is life cycle asses
                             ssment (LCA)?
  27 of 42




         • Enables estimation of cumula  ative environmental impacts 
           results from all stages of the product life cycle
         • A “cradle‐to‐grave” approach “for assessing the environmental 
           aspects and potential impacts associated with a product by;
             p          p            p                        p        y;
            – compiling an inventory of relevant inputs and outputs of a 
              system
            – evaluating the potential en nvironmental impacts associated 
              with these inputs and outp
              with these inputs and outp  puts
            – interpreting the results of the inventory and impact phases 
              in relation to the objective
                                         es of the study.” (ISO 14040)


Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Textile product lifecycle
  28 of 42



       Life cycle of a T‐shirt
                Supply Chain Footprint                                       Product Footprint




              Raw           Electricity   Production    Product supply &      Start of       End of 
             Material                                    transportation 
                                                         t          i       product life
                                                                               d     lif   product life
                                                                                              d    lif



                Growing               Spinning         Tra
                                                         ansportation       Washing           Disposal
                cotton                Knitting                              Drying
                                      Dyeing                                Ironing
                                      T‐Shirt 
                                      p
                                      production

Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Carbon footprint
  29 of 42




             Carbon footprint (CF) – also named Carbon 
             Carbon footprint (CF) also named Carbon
             profile  is the overall am
             profile ‐ is the overall am
                                       mount of carbon 
                                       mount of carbon
             dioxide (CO2) and other greenhouse gas 
             (GHG) emissions (e.g. m  methane, laughing gas, 
             etc.) associated with a p product*, along its 
             supply‐chain and someti
                   l h i       d       times including from 
                                             i l di f
             use and end‐of‐life reco
             use and end of life reco  overy and disposal. 
                                       overy and disposal

Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Definition – Water foot
                            tprint (WFP) 
  30 of 42




Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Solutions
  31 of 42




  I. The solutions are complex, and made more so by
  I The solutions are complex, and made more so by 
     the lack of a definitive “sus
                                 stainable” textile.
  II. It is not as straightforward as “natural fibres are 
      better than synthetic
      better than synthetic”.
  III. When using natural fibres, the energy, water, and 
       chemical use in cultivation,
                                  , production and 
       consumer use, washing and care needs to be 
       consumer use, washing and care needs to be
       considered, as do issues su
                                 uch as environmental 
       damage, and workers expo
       damage and workers' expo   osure to hazardous 
                                  osure to hazardous
       chemicals, dust and fumes.
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Chemicals consumed b
                        by textile industry
 32 of 42



                                                25 %


                                         75 %


            25% worldwide chemical go
            25% worldwide chemical go direct or indirect in textile
                                    oes direct or indirect in textile 
                                    oes
                                 industry




                 Chemical consumption             Chemical consumption 
                      synthetics  textiles
                      synthetics textiles             cotton textiles
                                                      cotton textiles
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
                          110 ‐ 820 g/kg             350 ‐ 1,500 g/kg
Sustainable apparel ind
                            dex
  33 of 42




             Evaluate the impacts of t
                                     the entire life cycle of 
             apparel products: mater
             apparel products: materrials, manufacturing, 
                                    rials manufacturing
             p
             packaging, transportatio
                  g g        p      on, use, and end of Life.

             Areas of consideration:
             Areas of consideration:
                  Water use and quality;
                  Energy use and greenhouse gases;
                  Waste; chemicals and to i it
                  W t h i l          d toxicity; and
                                                   d
                  Social and labor.
Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
Towards sustainable textile manufacturing
New legislation f
N l i l ti f    for sustainability
                       t i bilit
Impact on textile supply chain
What can we really do?
          e      y
thank
th k you for y
         f your attention! 
                 tt ti !

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Towards sustainable textile manufacturing

  • 1. Towards Sust Towards Sust tainable Textile Manufa acturing Dr r. S. P. Abbas 15 November  2012
  • 2. for additional inform for additional inform mation contact mation contact Dr. S. P Pervez Abbas pscitn@ @cyber.net.pk
  • 4. What we are discussing g today? • Sustainability and sus stainable manufacturing • Why suddenly sustain Why suddenly sustain nability is under lime  nability is under lime light? g • Sustainability rating sy ystem • Sustainability in textile chain • Measuring sustainability in textile chain • N l i l ti / B i h New legislation / Buying‐houses requirement i t • Q/A
  • 5. Sustainable developm ment: It is the developme t th t meets the needs i th d l ent that t th d of the present without compromising the ability of future gen nerations to meet their own needs.
  • 6. Renewable resource 6 of 42 A substance of economic valu th t A bt f i lue that can be replaced or  b l d replenished in the same amo ount. Some renewable resources h have essentially an endless  supply, such as solar energy, wind energy and geothermal  l h l i d d h l pressure, while other resourcces are considered renewable  even though some time or ef h h f ffort must go into their  ff h renewal, such as wood, oxyge en, leather and fish. Most precious metals are con nsidered renewable as well;  even though they are not nat turally replaced, they can be  recycled because they are no ot destroyed during their  extraction and use. Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 7. Resource – rate of use 7 of 42 Fifty years ago, the world was  Fift th l Consumption Discovery consuming 4 billion barrrels of  oil per year and the aver rage  discovery was around 30 discovery was around 30 billion 0 billion. 0 Today we consume 30 billion  Today we consume 30 billion barrels per year and the  discovery rate is approacching 4  billion barrels of crude p billion barrels of crude per year. per year.  p Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012 Asi ia newspaper, 4 May 2005, quoted by Rob Hopkins, The Transition Handbook, p. 21
  • 9. Sustainable manufactu uring 9 of 42 Sustainable manufacturing is defined as the  bl f f h creation of manufacture creation of manufacture products that use ed products that use  ed processes that are; I. non‐polluting, II. conserve energy and natural resources, and  II conserve energy and natural resources and are III. economically sound a and safe for  employees, communi i l ities, and consumers.” i d ” Source: US Department of Commerce definition Sustainable Manufacturing – National Council for Ad dvanced Manufacturing (http://www.nacfam.org/ )  ‐ Definition Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 10. Sustainability 10 of 42 Banned  azo dyes Formaldehyde Liquid metal  CO2 Nickel Hea alth Pollution etc. water Safe working  environment i Minimum wages Working hours Holidays etc. Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 11. Our dreams Our dreams Safe environment Clean Air Clean Air Enough water &  Safe & healthy  y electricity food Schools for all  No GM food No GM food children hild Enough food Enough food There is a growing awareness s for Sustainability because  these dreams are in dan nger – and we know it. Our customers also know it.
  • 12. Sustainable prac Sustainable prac ctice Our commitment exxtends beyond our  company and customers. company and customers Our community and y d environment are  important as well.
  • 13. Sustainability  u i bili ra ating system ating system
  • 14. Main rating tools 14 of 42 U.K. and Europe U.K. and Europe Americas Rest of the World Rest of the World BREEAM (inc Eco‐homes) LEED (U.S. & C Canada) Green Star (Australia) The Green Guide to  U.S. DOE (U.S S. Department of  BEAM (Hong Kong Specification Energy) Desig gn Guide (U.S.) Office Scorer WBDG (Whole Building ( LEED (China and India) ( ) Design Guide) (U.S.) ENVEST HOK Sustaina HOK Sustaina Design able Design able Greenmark Guide (U.S.) (Singapore) Sustainability Checklists  ada (Canada BREEAM Cana GBTool (South Africa) (e.g.) SEEDA; BRE) Environmental Impact  Green Globes s (U.S. & Assessment (EIA) Assessment (EIA) Canada) Strategic Environmental Assessment (SEA) Sources: RICS (2007) and Green Globes (2009) Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012 International Comparison of Sustainable Rating Tools
  • 15. Textile industry 15 of 42 The textile industry i Th t til i d t is one of the longest  f th l t and most complicate and most complicate industrial chains ed industrial chains  ed of the manufacturing g industry. It involves actors from h i l f m the agricultural,  i l l chemical fibre, dyes & chemicals manuf.,  chemical fibre dyes & chemicals manuf textile and apparel in pp ndustries, retail and  , services sector, and wwaste treatment. Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 16. Textile processing – ma ajor concern  16 of 42 • Mi i i Minimise pollution: ll ti – air water and land air, water and land • Optimise resources Optimise resources – energy, water, chemicals gy, , • Worker safety • Consumer safety and  satisfaction  Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 17. Textile value chain 17 of 42 major ecological & soc cial challenges Water Effluent Energy Chemistry Land Society Cotton cultivation Spinning Weaving/knitting Wet processing Garment making Moderate  Larrge  Very large  No effect effect effe ect effect Source: Otto group 2006 Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 18. Sustainability through h chemical selection 18 of 42 in textile manufacturi ing Measurement of all impact from chemical  usage Air, water and soil/lan Air water and soil/lannd CO2 emission Waste Health Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 19. Parameters – Sustainability mea asurement in wet processing  19 of 42 CO2 VOC’s NO2 SO2 CH4 UFP’s s Emission Water noise Product Textile Dyes &  y Chemicals Solid waste Land and  Textile fiber water  Liquid waste q pollution Energy Energy Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 20. Changing market  dyna amics 20 of 42 • Chi – textile invigorating plan 2009 – 20 China il i i i l 2009 2011 – Energy: 5 % reduction pe year for whole industry Energy: 5 % reduction pe er year for whole industry er – Water consumption lowe ered by 7 % per year – Wastewater discharge lowered by 7 % per year • India – existing & foreseen water shortage • Bangladesh – gas shortage are prevalent • Pakistan shortage of electricity gas and water Pakistan – shortage of electricity, gas and water  already exists  Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012 Source: Texworld, New York – Jan. 2012
  • 21. Reducing water g r consumption  p and saving energy are among   g gy g the highest priorities in the  textile industry today.
  • 22. Cost analysis of a cotto on t‐shirt 22 of 42 Fiber 70 % Utilities 15  0 % 15 – 20 % Labor 08 – 10 % Dyes & Chemicals 03 – 05 % Biggest potential for  Fiber cost reduction t d ti Utilities Labor Dyes & Chemicals Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 25. Measuring sustainability – textile manufacturing 25 of 42 Life cycle assessment of textile Lif l t f t tiles Carbon footprint Water footprint Resources utilization Resources utilization Water Energy Chemicals Assessment of Social responsib bility Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 27. What is life cycle asses ssment (LCA)? 27 of 42 • Enables estimation of cumula ative environmental impacts  results from all stages of the product life cycle • A “cradle‐to‐grave” approach “for assessing the environmental  aspects and potential impacts associated with a product by; p p p p y; – compiling an inventory of relevant inputs and outputs of a  system – evaluating the potential en nvironmental impacts associated  with these inputs and outp with these inputs and outp puts – interpreting the results of the inventory and impact phases  in relation to the objective es of the study.” (ISO 14040) Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 28. Textile product lifecycle 28 of 42 Life cycle of a T‐shirt Supply Chain Footprint Product Footprint Raw  Electricity Production Product supply &  Start of  End of  Material transportation  t i product life d lif product life d lif Growing  Spinning Tra ansportation  Washing Disposal cotton Knitting Drying Dyeing Ironing T‐Shirt  p production Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 29. Carbon footprint 29 of 42 Carbon footprint (CF) – also named Carbon  Carbon footprint (CF) also named Carbon profile  is the overall am profile ‐ is the overall am mount of carbon  mount of carbon dioxide (CO2) and other greenhouse gas  (GHG) emissions (e.g. m methane, laughing gas,  etc.) associated with a p product*, along its  supply‐chain and someti l h i d times including from  i l di f use and end‐of‐life reco use and end of life reco overy and disposal.  overy and disposal Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 30. Definition – Water foot tprint (WFP)  30 of 42 Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 31. Solutions 31 of 42 I. The solutions are complex, and made more so by I The solutions are complex, and made more so by  the lack of a definitive “sus stainable” textile. II. It is not as straightforward as “natural fibres are  better than synthetic better than synthetic”. III. When using natural fibres, the energy, water, and  chemical use in cultivation, , production and  consumer use, washing and care needs to be  consumer use, washing and care needs to be considered, as do issues su uch as environmental  damage, and workers expo damage and workers' expo osure to hazardous  osure to hazardous chemicals, dust and fumes. Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 32. Chemicals consumed b by textile industry 32 of 42 25 % 75 % 25% worldwide chemical go 25% worldwide chemical go direct or indirect in textile oes direct or indirect in textile  oes industry Chemical consumption  Chemical consumption  synthetics  textiles synthetics textiles cotton textiles cotton textiles Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012 110 ‐ 820 g/kg 350 ‐ 1,500 g/kg
  • 33. Sustainable apparel ind dex 33 of 42 Evaluate the impacts of t the entire life cycle of  apparel products: mater apparel products: materrials, manufacturing,  rials manufacturing p packaging, transportatio g g p on, use, and end of Life. Areas of consideration: Areas of consideration: Water use and quality; Energy use and greenhouse gases; Waste; chemicals and to i it W t h i l d toxicity; and d Social and labor. Dr. S. P. Abbas Oct. 2012
  • 35. New legislation f N l i l ti f for sustainability t i bilit
  • 36. Impact on textile supply chain
  • 38. thank th k you for y f your attention!  tt ti !