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Top 10 Top 10 Mallorca Information - Eyewitness Travel DKk

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Is the perfect guido to Mallorca by DK. Eyewitness Travel. Top 10 Mallorca

Is the perfect guido to Mallorca by DK. Eyewitness Travel. Top 10 Mallorca

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  • 1. EYEWITNESS TRAVELJEFFREY KENNEDYMALLORCATOP10
  • 2. ContentsContentsMallorca’sTop 10Highlights of Mallorca 6Sa Seu: Palma Cathedral 8Castell de Bellver 12Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró 14Sa Granja 16Valldemossa 18Jardins d’Alfàbia 24Monestir de NostraSenyora de Lluc 26Península de Formentor 28Alcúdia 30Coves del Drac 32Moments in History 34Areas of Natural Beauty 36Wildlife and Plants 38Ports and Resorts 40Beaches 42Coves and Caves 44Outdoor Activitiesand Sports 46Walks and Drives 48Villages 50Festivals 52Cover: Front – Alamy Images Michael Schindel main image; DK Images Joe Cornish; Colin Sinclair bl.Spine – DK Images Colin Sinclair. Back – DK Images Joe Cornish tc, tl; Barteomies Zaranek tr.The information in this DK EyewitnessTop 10Travel Guide is checked regularly.Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time ofgoing to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publisherscannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor forany material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in thisbook will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions ofour readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, Great Britain .Produced by Blue Island, LondonReproduced by Colourscan, SingaporePrinted and bound in Chinaby Leo Paper Products Ltd.First American Edition, 200307 08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Published in the United States byDorling Kindersley Publishing, Inc.,375 Hudson Street, New York,New York 10014Copyright 2003, 2007 © DorlingKindersley LimitedReprinted with revisions 2005, 2007All rights reserved under international andpan-american copyright conventions. Nopart of this publication may be reproduced,stored in a retrieval system, or transmittedin any form or by any means, electronic,mechanical, photocopying, recording orotherwise, without prior written permissionof the copyright owner. Published in greatbritain by Dorling Kindersley LimitedISSN 1479-344XISBN 978-0-75662-490-3Within each Top 10 list in this book, nohierarchy of quality or popularity is implied.All 10 are, in the editor’s opinion, ofroughly equal merit.Floors are referred to throughout inaccordance with Spanish usage; ie the“first floor” is the floor above ground level.Left Palma Cathedral RightValldemossa2
  • 3. ContentsLeft Santuari de Sant Salvador Right IncaAncient Places 54Castles and Towers 56Churches 58Monasteries 60Museums 62Parks and Gardens 64Family Attractions 68Shopping Places 70Nightspots 72Gay and Lesbian Venues 76Culinary Highlights 78Cafés and Bars 80Restaurants 82Around the IslandPalma 86Southwest Coast 94North Coast 102Southeast Coast 112Central Plain 120StreetsmartPlanning Your Trip 128Getting to Mallorca 129Getting Around 130Health and Security 131Things to Avoid 132Banking andCommunications 133Tips for Families 134Tips for DisabledTravelers 135Budget Tips 136Drinking and Eating Tips 137Shopping Tips 138Accommodation Tips 139Places to Stay 140Index 148Phrase Book 158Left Angel, Sa Granja Centre Playa de Formentor Right Read’s restaurant, Santa Maria del Camí3Key to abbreviationsAdm admission charge payable No dis acc no disabled access
  • 4. MALLORCA’STOP 10Highlights of Mallorca6–7Sa Seu:Palma Cathedral8–11Castell de Bellver12–13FundacióPilar i Joan Miró14–15Sa Granja16–17Valldemossa18–21Jardins d’Alfàbia24–5Monestir de NostraSenyora de Lluc26–7Península de Formentor28–9Alcúdia30–31Coves del Drac32–3Top 10 of Everything34–83MALLORCA’STOP10
  • 5. Mallorca’sTop10Highlights of MallorcaKnown variously as the “Golden Isle”, the “Wooded Isle” andthe “Tranquil Isle”, Mallorca is all of these, despite its decades-long dependence on mass tourism. The island is laden withhistory and sights, from its castles and enchanted gardens tocaves and spectacular mountains. The eastern and southerncoasts still sport some of the cleanest, most beautiful beachesin the Mediterranean, and the city of Palma is moreattractive, culturally alive and fun than ever.Previous pages Palma Cathedral above the port6!Sa Seu: Palma CathedralLooming over Palma Bay, theGothic cathedral’s immensity isbeautifully counterpoised by thesoftness of its golden colour andthe delicate filigree-likecarvings. Among thetreasures within are thetombs of Mallorca’s firstkings (seepp8–11).@Castell de BellverStanding sentinel on a hilltop, thecastle of Bellver is immaculately pre-served. Its walls have imprisonedqueens and scholars, and they nowcontain an intriguing museum thatevokes the island’s past (see pp12–13).£Fundació Pilar i Joan MiróThe genius and visionary power ofthe consummate Catalan artist are con-centrated here. Not only can you experi-ence the full range of Joan Miró’s work,but you can also immerse yourself in theatmosphere of his studio (see pp14–15).$Sa GranjaA mountain estate of gracious archi-tecture and bucolic surrounds. Yet thispeaceful haven is also home to a hor-rific collection of torture devices usedby the dreaded Inquisition (see pp16–17).Mural,Valldemossa
  • 6. Mallorca (or Majorca) gets its name from the ancient Roman namefor the island, Balearis Major, meaning the “biggest Balearic”7%ValldemossaArguably Mallorca’s most beauti-ful town, Valldemossa is wherePolish pianist Frédéric Chopin andhis lover, French writer George Sand,spent a miserable but creativewinter in 1838–9 (see pp18–21).Monestir de NostraSenyora de LlucMallorca’s most ancient holy site isthe spiritual epicentre of island life.The monastery houses a sacredstatue of the Virgin and Child, anda small museum (see pp26–7).Península de FormentorA dramatic extension of the Serrade Tramuntana mountain range, and thesite of Mallorca’s very first luxury resort,where kings, presidents and movie starshave come to play (see pp28–9).AlcúdiaHome to theisland’s only remain-ing medieval walledcity. It was built onthe site of a Romanoutpost, the theatreand ruins of whichcan still be seen(see pp30–31).)Coves del DracThe island is peppered withfantastic caves, and these are thebiggest and best. Spectacularly lit,the chambers echo with liltingclassical music, played live fromboats on one of the world’s largestunderground lakes (see pp32–3).^Jardinsd’AlfàbiaCreated by an Arabwali (viceroy) 1,000years ago, thesegardens includeparterres, arboursand dells surround-ing an all but derelicthouse. A great placefor exploring and re-laxing (see pp24–5).&*(Mallorca’sTop10
  • 7. For the Palau de l’Almudaina, which stands opposite Sa Seu,see following pagesMallorca’sTop10Sa Seu: Palma CathedralThe 14th-century cathedral is an imposing pile,with its Gothic buttresses, finials and bossessoftly glowing in the sun. Legend has it thatKing Jaume I ordered it built in 1230, though infact he merely modified an existing mosque.Work began in 1306 and has continued to thisday. The western façade was rebuilt after anearthquake in 1851. Controversial touches wereadded in the 20th century by Antonio Gaudí.8The cathedral at night!ExteriorLooking up from the oldwall on the seafront, Sa Seuseems to have more in com-mon with a craggy Mallorcanmountain than it does withany other European cathed-ral. It represents the mightof the island’s Christianconquerors.The audioguide, atextra cost, can behelpful as you tourthe interior, though itgives too muchuninteresting detail.You’ll find the finestviews of the bay andcity, as well as goodfish and seafood, atLa Lubina, oppositethe cathedral (971723350). It is best tobook in advance.Otherwise, Parlament,C/Conquistador, 11(971 726026), is anelegant institutionspecializing in ricedishes, shellfish andstuffed asparagus.Map L5 • Apr–Oct:10am–5:30pm Mon–Fri;Nov–Mar: 10am–3:15pm,10am–2:15pm Sat• Adm €3.50$Portal de l’AlmoinaThis doorway is thehumblest of them all; itsname refers to thedistribution of alms to thepoor. It was the lastGothic contribution to thebuilding’s exterior, built inthe last decade of the 15thcentury. The rectangularsurround and the pointedarch have been finelycarved, but the doorwayitself has very littleembellishment.£Portal MajorAlthough it is Gothicin overall style, the maindoor (above) is mainly theproduct of Renaissanceworkmanship. A figure ofMary is surrounded byobjects pertaining to herTop 10 Features1 Exterior2 Portal del Mirador3 Portal Major4 Portal de l’Almoina5 BellTower6 Nave Columns7 Rose Windows8 Gaudí Modifications9 Chapels0 Museum@Portal del MiradorThe seaward, Gothicfaçade is the most spec-tacular side. Rows ofornate buttresses surroundan elaborate door, whichwas formerly called theDoor of the Apostles butis now known as theMirador (vantage point).Sa Seu, viewed from the west
  • 8. For more on Mallorca’s great churches See pp58–9Mallorca’sTop109123456789 91770(ChapelsIn all, there are 20chapels, though someare now part of the chan-cel, with their altarpiecesdisplayed in the museum.The tombs of Jaume II(below) and Jaume III arein the Trinity Chapel.OrientationDuring the week, visitorsare expected to enterthe cathedral throughthe museum on thenorth side (to justify theadmission charge). How-ever, before taking in theinterior of Sa Seu, walkaround to the south side,facing the sea, in orderto get a better feel forthe awe-inspiring scaleof the edifice.)MuseumThe collection includessome of Sa Seu’s earliestaltar panels, a polychromewood sarcophagus, ornatereliquaries and furniture.Most mind-boggling arethe pair of 18th-centuryBaroque-style candelabra,each as tall as a person.^Nave ColumnsSa Seu is one ofEurope’s tallest Gothicstructures, and the senseof space in the interior isenhanced by graceful,elongated pillars thatseem almost to meltaway in the upper reachesof the nave (above).&Rose WindowsA vibrant rose win-dow (below) at the endof the nave is the mainone of seven (a few areblocked up). Some saythat the 20th-century “res-toration” of the window’scolours was too strong.*GaudíModificationsIn 1904–14, the greatModernista architect setabout improving Sa Seu’sinterior, removing medio-cre altars and changingthe lighting effects. Thecontroversial baldachin(below) is actually only amock-up – he neverfinished the final canopy.%BellTowerThis bell (left) is setwithin a three-storey-hightower surmounted with a“crown of lace” – a perfora-ted parapet with smallpinnacles. The structure isprobably of Islamic origin.EntranceCathedralPlan
  • 9. Mallorca’sTop1010Palau de l’AlmudainaLeft Central Courtyard Centre Gothic Hall Right King’s Rooms!Functionof the PalaceStanding directly oppositeSa Seu, in an equallyprominent position thatactually obscures thecathedral’s mainfaçade from all butclose-up view, this ancient palaceadds a lighter, more gracefulnote to Palma’s assemblage ofcivic buildings. Today, the palaceis used for legislative andmilitary headquarters, royalapartments and a museum.@Building StyleAn amalgam of Gothic andMoorish styles, the palace has aunique charm. Square, medievaltowers have been topped withdainty Moorish-inspired crenel-lations. Refined windows andopen, airy arcades also tell of anabiding Islamic influence.£Central CourtyardKnown variously as the Patiode Armas, the Patio de Honorand the Patio del Castillo, thiscentral courtyard alsoevokes a Moorish feel,with its elegantly loop-ing arches and centralstand of palm trees. Afountain incorporatesan Islamic lion fromthe 11th century.$Hall of CouncilsThe largest roomon the ground floortakes its name, Salónde Consejos, from a meetingof ministers called herein 1983 by Juan Carlos I.There are 15th- and16th-century Flemishtapestries, coats-of-arms and furniture.%Officers’ MessThe walls are graced withfine 17th-century Flemish genrepaintings, some by a talentedcontemporary of Rubens. Notethe fine Mudéjar woodenceilings, by Moorish artisans.^Terrace and Banys ÀrabsStep onto the terrace forpanoramic views. Then, backinside, peer into the remains ofthe Arab Baths. By means ofmirrors, you can examine thethree separate vaulted chambersbelow – one for hot, one fortepid and one for cold water.&Queen’s RoomsTaking the Royal Staircase tothe upper floor, you encounterthe Queen’s Rooms, whichThe Palau is open Apr–Sep: 10am–5:45pm Mon–Fri, 10am–1:15pm Sat;Oct–Mar: 10am–1:15pm & 4–5:45pm Mon–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat (adm €3.20)Stone lion outside the palaceTerrace
  • 10. Mallorca’sTop1011For more on Mallorca’s fascinating history see pp34–5contain fine antiques, orientalcarpets, tapestries and paintings.*King’s RoomsHere, you will find richlycoloured oriental carpets, huge16th- and 17th-century Flemishtapestries, bronze statuary,Neoclassical paintings and somespectacular Empire furniture withglittering ormolu fittings.(Gothic HallThis remarkable room, notedfor its huge pointed arches, isused for official receptions. Don’tmiss the fine 17th-century Flem-ish tapestry on the back wall,depicting the Siege of Carthage.)Chapel of St AnneThe chapel’s delicatelycoloured altarpiece, created inBarcelona in 1358, is a visualsonnet in sky blue and gold.356 78940Mallorca’s UniqueArchitectural HeritageStone is the keynotematerial in Mallorcanbuildings of all kinds,whether in the form ofnatural boulders orcarved segments. Howthose stones havebeen used has been adefining feature of themany cultures that have held sway on the island overthe millennia. The Greeks, Phoenicians, Romans andByzantines all left their traces and influences behind,however little may be in evidence. But what wemostly see today of pre-Christian traditions (especiallyin place names – most notably, any word with “al-”)can be traced directly back to the Roman-influencedculture of the Islamic lords, who ruled the islandduring the 10th–13th centuries. In the ensuingcenturies, something of that exotic style has beenrepeatedly renewed in Mallorcan building techniquesand tastes, moulded into the Gothic, Renaissance,Baroque, Neoclassical, Modernista and even the mostcontemporary architectural styles.Typical Features ofTraditional Houses1 Kitchen fireplace2 Clastra (main patio)3 Cisterns4 Tafona (oil press) andmill room5 Defence tower6 Capilla (family chapel)7 Stone walls, floors andsometimes ceilings8 Vaulted ceilings9 Wood beams0 Decorative motifsderived from Islamic,Gothic, ItalianRenaissance, Baroque,Rococo, Neoclassical orModernista stylesPointed stone arch, GothicHall, Palau de l’AlmudainaHall of CouncilsStone arch entrance of atraditional houseKey to plansGround floorFirst floor
  • 11. Mallorca’sTop10Castell de BellverThis castle near Palma was a grand 14th-centuryroyal fortress, royal summer residence and laterroyal prison. Surrounded for miles by fragrant pinewoods, which are alive with whirring cicadas in theheat of summer, it also has stunning views overPalma Bay (Bellver means “lovely view” in Catalan).Looking up at this citadel, so perfectly preserved, it’shard to believe that it has been standing for 700years. It is among the world’s most striking castles.More marvellous castles and towers are on pp56–712!ViewsGo to the top for a360-degree panorama,including the foothills andsea to the west and themountains to the north.The perfume of the pineforests creates a heady mixwith the maritime breezes.@Circular DesignThe elegant roundshape is unique amongSpanish castles and apremier example of 14th-century military architec-ture (below). The circularstructure also aided in thecollection of rainwaterinto the central cistern.£DefenceTowersThere are threehorseshoe-shapedtowers and four small-er protuberances usedfor guard posts. Theirwindows are tiny sothat archers could notbe targeted by attack-ers on the ground.View from towerAvoid visiting thecastle on a Sunday,when its excellentmuseum will be shut.You can get to theBellver hill by car ortaxi, or take the citybus to Plaça Gomilaand climb through thewoods above Carrerde Bellver, passing achapel on the way.Nicke’s Svensk Bar& Café is a friendlyspot at the bottom ofCarrer de Bellver. Runby Swedish brothers,it offers sandwichesand some Swedishfare (see p92).Map R1 • 3 km (2 miles)west of city centre• 8am–8pm Mon–Sat (to7pm in Oct–Mar), 10am–7pm Sun (to 5pm inOct–Mar) • Museumclosed Sun • Adm €1.80Mon–Sat, free SunTop 10 Highlights1 Views2 Circular Design3 DefenceTowers4 KeepTower5 Central Courtyard6 Prison7 Museum Entrance andChapel8 Museum: Ancient Artifacts9 Museum: Arab Artifacts0 Museum: Spanish ArtifactsView from battlementsElegant stonework withinthe circular castle
  • 12. 13(Museum:Arab ArtifactsSurprisingly few remnantshere beyond some pots,both paintedand blue-glazed, astone lion,terracottalamps andsgraffito ware(pottery withetched designs).)Museum:Spanish ArtifactsA great range of stylesand eras is presented,from medieval arms anda stone font with angels,dated 1591, to laterworks including 17th-century Mallorcanturquoise-glazed ceram-ics, Chinese porcelain,and items from the BelleÉpoque and Fascist eras.$KeepTowerThe free-standingcastle keep, called theTorre de Homenaje (left),is almost twice as highas the castle itself, con-nected to its roof by asmall bridge supportedby a slim, pointed Gothicarchway. It is open tovisitors by arrangement(971 730657).*Museum:Ancient ArtifactsThe first three roomscontain impres-sive Romanstatuary (right), aperfectly preservedcolumn of rarecippolino marble,carved seals, marbleinscriptions, lamps and1st-century pots.Museum Entranceand ChapelFrom the central courtyardyou enter Palma’s Museude Mallorca, in whichsculptures (right) and otherartifacts trace the city’shistory through Talaiotic,Roman, Arab and Spanishperiods. The former Chapelof St Mark is now barevaulted rooms.%CentralCourtyardThe beautiful, two-tieredcentral courtyard (left)has 21 Catalan Rom-anesque arches on thelower tier, which contrastwith the 42 octagonalcolumns supporting 21Gothic arches on theupper tier. Classicalstatues, such as those ofVenus and Nero, gracethe lower walkway.^PrisonRight up until 1915,the lower reaches of thecastle were used as aprison, dubbed La Olla(“the kettle”). Jaume III’swidow and sons (see p35)were imprisoned here formost of their lives.2 35678904EntranceKey to Castle PlanGround floorFirst floor&Mallorca’sTop10
  • 13. For more museums see pp62–3Mallorca’sTop10Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró14The artist Joan Miró lived and worked on Cala Major for40 years. After his death in 1983, his wife convertedthe house and former studio into an art centre. Thismodern edifice, nicknamed the “Alabaster Fortress” bythe Spanish press, is the work of Rafael Moneo, a lead-ing Spanish architect. The new building houses a permanent exhibition ofMiró’s paintings, drawings, and sculptures, as well as a library, auditoriumand a shop selling items decorated with the artist’s colourful designs.!Building DesignComposed of concretemade to look like travertinemarble, the starkly modernbuilding (above) is softenedby reflecting pools, coolplanes, ramps andstaircases. Itshigh, narrowwindows affordsurprising viewsfrom the hilltopsite. Most origin-ally, huge marblepanels are usedas translucentwalls, softly light-ing the trapezoidalexhibition spaces.@SculpturesUpon entering, you’regreeted by three whimsicalbronzes and a very muchlarger monumental piece,which are all vaguely anthro-pomorphic (left). Down-stairs, the giant Womanand Bird was executedby Miró with ceramistLlorenç Artigast.Top 10 Highlights1 Building Design2 Sculptures3 Documentation4 Works on Paper5 UNESCO’sMural del Sol6 Works on Canvas7 Temporary Exhibitions8 Garden9 Murals0 StudioCarving, Miró’s houseYou can take the bus(EMT no. 3 and 6), taxior drive to get to theFundació, on a hill tothe west of Palma.An enlightening filmon Miró is shownduring the day (inSpanish); sometimesit is in English.The café is excellent,with made-to-ordersandwiches, pa amboli (see p78) andolives, fresh orangejuice and more. It’salso air-conditionedand features a won-derful mural by Miró(see entry 9).• Map R2 • C/Joan deSaridakis, 29, Palma •971 701420 • May–Sep:10am–7pm Tue–Sat,10am–3pm Sun & hols;Sep–May: 10am–6pmTue–Sat; 10am–3pm Sun& hols • Adm €4.80Gardens in front ofMiró’s houseWorks in the Fundació’s garden£DocumentationA special room isset aside near theentrance to revealthe steps Miró tookin creating thevarious componentsof his graphic images.
  • 14. Mallorca’sTop1015Miró’s StyleOne of the best-knownartists of the 20th cen-tury, Miró (1893–1983)was a Catalan throughand through. Initiallyinfluenced by Fauvism,and later by Dadaismand Surrealism, hedeveloped his ownunique style, marked bylyricism and livelycolouring. After arrivingin Mallorca he becameinterested in graphics,ceramics and sculpture,scoring significantsuccesses in every artform. The embodimentof a uniquely Catalanway of seeing theworld, he became onethe great exponents ofAbstract Expressionism.$Workson PaperSeveral works on paperare displayed (above),most exhibiting the sig-nature primary coloursand splashes for whichthe artist is known.^Works on CanvasMany of these worksare mixed media – oil,acrylic, chalk and pastel.Some may have beeninspired by Japanese Zenaction painting. Some areblue – for Miró the mostuniversal and optimisticcolour – while someblack and white works arean aggressive responseto the tragedies of theSpanish Civil War.&TemporaryExhibitionsThe temporary exhibitionspaces feature the worksof such up-and-comingartists as Paloma Navares.*GardenIn the garden,groups of rocksresembling waterlilies “float” in apool, while in otherniches works bymodern and avant-guarde artists canbe found.)StudioMiro’s studio (above)looks like the artist juststepped outside for a breakfrom work in progress.Objects that inspired Miróare all around: Hopi kachinadolls, Mexican terracottas, abat skeleton and variouseveryday items.%Mural del SolDominating one roomis a five-panel sketch onpaper, the study for a muralin the UNESCO building in Paris,co-created with LlorençArtigast in 1955–8. The workwon the Guggenheim award.(MuralsAbove one of thegarden pools, a blackrectangle encloses aceramic mural by Miró,with shapes gyrating inspace. Taking up a wholewall in the café is amural of the sun andother celestial bodies.Plan of theFundació012346789HouseMuseumStudio5
  • 15. Mallorca’sTop10Sa Granja16This possessió (country estate) is on a site known since Romantimes for its natural spring. In 1239, the Count Nuño Sanz donatedthe estate to Cistercian monks; since 1447 it has been a privatehouse. Visitors come today mainly to see rural Mallorcantraditions, such as demonstrations of lace-making, embroideryand spinning, and tastings of cheese,wine, sausages, doughnuts and fig cake.!GardensThe cultivated areasare very rich, including awalled rock garden, moss-covered rock formations,botanical gardens, a pondwith a water-jet fountainand a magnificent 1,000-year-old yew tree. Youcan still see some of thewater canal that wasused for irrigation.@FamilyApartmentsThese rooms evoke thegenteel country lifestyleof the house’s formerinhabitants. Of particularnote are the curtains inthe main room (below)made of roba de llenguës;the study with its curiousold medical instruments;and the antique toys inthe games room.£Dining RoomThe main attraction hereis the cleverly constructeddining room table thatdoubles as a billiard table.By turning the side crank,the height can beadjusted for bothpurposes. Thecrockery and glass-ware, from variouseras, are originalto the house, andthe tile floor isalso original.Top 10 Highlights1 Gardens2 Family Apartments3 Dining Room4 Loggia5 Workrooms6 Cellars7 “Torture Chamber”8 Chapel9 Forecourt0 PerformancesStatue incourtyardThe easiest way toget to Sa Granja isby car or tour bus.Handicraft shows andmusic and danceperformances takeplace onWednesdaysand Fridays from3:30–5pm. Otherwise,visit in the morningto avoid the crowds.The Granja Restau-rant serves lunch allday, featuring sopesmallorquines(Mallorcan soup),and there’s a snackbar/cafeteria.You arealso welcome topicnic at variouscharming settingswithin the grounds.Map B3 • Ctra. Esporles-Banyalbufar, km 2, Espor-les (between Valldemossaand Banyalbufar; followthe signs off the maincoast road, C710) • 971610032 • www.lagranja.net • 10am–7pm daily(to 6pm Nov–Mar)• Adm €8.50, Wed & Fri€10.50 with performanceThe house and groundsFountain in the gardens
  • 16. Mallorca’sTop1017Traditional Musicand DancingFashioned from woodand animal skins, Mallor-can instruments includethe xeremia (bagpipe),fabiol (flute), tamborinoand guitarro. Typicalfamous dances are theBolero (18th century),La Jota (from easternMallorca), the Fandango(a line dance), Copeoand Mateixa (both alsofrom the east). Manydances are improvised,accompanied only bypercussion instruments;a more organizedensemble will performon formal occasions.$LoggiaThe loveliestarchitectural featureof the house evokesFlorentine tenets ofbeauty and gracewith considerablesuccess. Providing awelcome breezeway onhot summer days andcharming vistas at anytime of the year, thisporch-like gallery (above),unusual in Mallorca, is aplace to pause.^CellarsCheeses weremanufactured in thecellars, using the milk ofcows, sheep and goats.Dough was kneadedusing a stone mill, tomake all types of pasta,for soups and other dish-es. Dairy products, oil,wine and grain were allstored here.&”TortureChamber”A room displays the typi-cal implements – includingiron body cages and arack – used against Jews,other non-Christians andsuspected heretics orwitches during the Span-ish Inquisition of the15th–17th centuries.Vicious-looking chastitybelts are also on display.*ChapelThe altarpiece, withits lovely festooned arch,is Baroque; the altaritself a pretty Gothiccreation; and the twokneeling, silver-wingedplaster angels (above)rather kitsch 19th-centuryefforts. Note the well-worn original tile floor.(ForecourtThe majestic spacein front of themansion containsfour large planetrees that areabout 150 yearsold. Here you canrelax in their shade,watching craftsmenat work and samplingregional wines, liqueurs,juices, jams, sobrassadas(sausages), cheeses,figs, breads and bunyolas(potato flour buns).)PerformancesTraditional music andfolk dances are staged onWednesdays and Fridays(above, box and panel).%WorkroomsThe labyrinth ofrooms downstairs com-prises the earthy heart ofthe home. The estate wasself-sufficient with itsown oil-mill, tinsmith,winepress, distilleries (forliqueurs and cosmetics),woodworking shop,embroiderer and more.Plan ofGrounds11190Entrance
  • 17. The former monastery, also referred to as the Charterhouse, isMallorca’s second most-visited building after Palma’s cathedralMallorca’sTop10ValldemossaThis small, picturesque town in the mountains isarguably where Mallorcan tourism began one coldwinter in 1838, when the composer Frédéric Chopinand his lover, the female writer George Sand, rentedsome rooms at the former monastery here. Shunnedby locals, the couple had a miserable time, as por-trayed in Sand’s book, A Winter in Majorca. However,Mallorcans today are proudof their Chopin-Sandconnection, and the book issold in every tourist shop.18Top 10 Sights1 Former Monastery Complex2 Monastery: Church3 Monastery: Cloisters4 Monastery: Pharmacy5 Monastery: Prior’s Cell6 Monastery: Cells 2 and 47 Monastery: Palace8 OldTown9 Church of Sant Bartomeu0 Birthplace of SantaCatalinaThomàsPalace of King SançThe best views ofthe town, with itsbeautiful green-tiledbell tower, are thoseas you approachfrom the north.If you arrive by car,park in one of themunicipal car parkswith automaticmeters, then explorethe town on foot.One of the most devel-oped tourist towns inMallorca,Valldemossahas many good diningoptions. Costa NorddeValldemossa (Avda.Palma, 6, 971 612425)offers a superbMediterranean-stylemenu and great views.Map C3 • Monasteryand Museum Mar–Oct:9:30am–6pm Mon–Sat,10am–1:30pm Sun;Nov–Feb: 9:30am–4:30pm Mon–Sat• 971 612148 (museum)• Adm €6.95 for both!Former MonasteryComplexThe town’s top attractionis the former monasterywhere Chopin and Sandstayed, which also incorpo-rates a palace and an excel-lent municipal museum(see pp20–21). Given tothe Carthusian Order in1399, the estate was amonastery until 1835,when all religious orderswere ousted from theisland. It was bought by aFrench banker who rent-ed the rooms to Chopin.@Monastery:ChurchThe Neoclassical churchhas a cupola decoratedwith frescoes by FrayBayeu, the brother-in-lawof Francisco de Goya.It is distinguished bybarrel vaulting and gilt-edged stucco work.£Monastery: CloistersFrom the church, youcan enter the atmosphericcloisters (above), known asthe Myrtle Court. Aroundthem are six chapels andten spacious monks’ cells.$Monastery:PharmacyLaden with tinctures andelixirs, a deconsecratedchapel recreates theestate’s original pharmacy.George Sand (portraitabove) bought marshmal-low here in an attempt tocure Chopin’s tuberculosis.The town viewed from the north
  • 18. For highlights of the Museu Municipal de Valldemossa, which isset within the former monastery, see following pagesMallorca’sTop1019%Monastery: Prior’s CellThe head monk had aprivate oratory, magnificentlibrary, elegant audiencechamber, bedroom, diningroom, Ave María (prayingalcove) and, of course, asumptuous garden.^Monastery:Cells 2 and 4Said to be the rooms thatChopin and Sand rented(left), they are full of memo-rabilia, including Chopin’spiano, Sand’s manuscripts,busts (below) and portraits.&Monastery: PalaceThe core of the monasterywas originally the site of the pal-ace built by Jaume II for his sonSanç. The rooms are regally deco-rated – an especially beautifulpiece is the 12th-century wood-carving of the Madonna and Child.*OldTownThe old town (below) spills down a hill-side, surrounded by farming terraces andmarjades (stone walls) created 1,000 yearsago by the Moors. The name “Valldemos-sa” derives fromthat of the originalMoorish land-owner, Muza.(Church of Sant BartomeuNear the bottom of the oldtown, a rustic, Baroque-stylechurch is dedicated to one of thepatron saints of the town. It wasbuilt in 1245, shortly after Jaume Iconquered Mallorca, and extendedin the early 18th century. The belltower and façade date from 1863.)Birthplaceof SantaCatalinaThomásMallorca’s only saint,Catalina Thomàs(known affectionate-ly as the “Beatata”for both her saint-liness and diminutivestature), was bornin 1533 at a houseon C/Rectoría, 5. Thehouse was convert-ed into an oratory in1792 and featuressaintly scenes (aboveleft) and a statue ofthe “Beatata”holding a bird.1 2345678 0VIA BLANQUERNAAVINGUDA PALMAUETAM ROSA9
  • 19. Mallorca’sTop1020Museu Municipal de ValldemossaLeft Hapsburg-Lorena family tree Right Central room!Guasp PrintworksOn the ground floor ofthe museum you’ll find a17th-century hand pressand one of Europe’s finestcollections of 1,584intricate boxwoodengravings. On thewalls are prints exe-cuted on the press,which is still inworking order.@Archduke Luis Salvadorof Hapsburg-Lorenaand BourbonAlso on the ground floor is a roomdedicated to an indefatigablechronicler of Mediterranean life,whose passion was Mallorcanculture. His nine volumes on theBalearics are the most exhaustivestudy ever made of the archipelago.£Mallorcan Paintersof theTramuntanaMallorca’s mountainousTramuntana region has longattracted landscape painters.Among the outstandingMallorcan artists shownhere are Joan Fuster,Bartomeu Ferrà andAntoni Ribas.$Catalan andSpanishPainters of theTramuntanaWorks by SebastiàJunyer, and themore Impression-istic Eliseo Meifrén are displayed.%International Paintersof theTramuntanaThese include contemporaryItalian master Aligi Sassu, whoseworks owe much to Futurism,Surrealism and Expressionism.^Contemporary Art:Juli RamisThe contemporary collectionwas conceived as a spotlighton Juli Ramis (1909–90), one ofthe most important Mallorcanpainters of the 20th century.Works include hissignature DamaBlava and those of hisParis contemporaries,showing a cross-fertili-zation of influences.&MiróOf note is El Volde l’Alosa (Flight ofthe Swallows) – Miró’swhimsical illustrationsfor the works ofMallorcan poets.The Museu is located on two floors within Valldemossa’s formermonastery complex – see previous pagesPainting by the Mallorcan artist Joan FusterPrinting press
  • 20. Mallorca’sTop1021Following pages Palau de l’Almudaina, PalmaFrom Mass Tourism toCulture and EcologyMost fittingly, since Mallorcantourism got its shaky start herein the early 19th century, it isalso in Valldemossa that it isbeing taken to a new level inthe 21st century. Movie starsMichael Douglas and CatherineZeta Jones own a big estate andfounded the Costa Nord deValldemossa (it is now run bythe Balearic government). Thismultifaceted organization (whichhas a great restaurant: see p18)promotes cultural and ecological tourism on an islandthat, to many, went too far in catering to cheap sun-sand-surf packages in the past. All over the island isan ever-increasing number of nature parks, museumsand wonderful inland hotels at all price levels.Cultural and Ecolo-gical Attractions1 Public nature parksS’Albufera, Mondragó,Sa Dragonera, Cabrera,S’Albufereta NatureReserve, Serra deLlevant2 Private nature parksLa Reserva Puig deGalatzo, Natura Parc,Botanicactus, JumaicaTropical Park3 Agroturism4 Rural hotels5 Centres for traditionalcultureSa Granja, Els Calderers,Jardins d’Alfàbia, Raixa,Gordiola Glassworks6 Archaeological andhistorical museums7 Accommodation inmonasteries8 Mountain shelters9 Animal rescue andendangered speciesprogrammesMarineland0 Proposed parksSerra deTramuntana*PicassoSadly, Picasso’s masterfulreworking of El Greco’s greatpainting The Burial of CountOrgaz has been removed fromthe collection. However, thereare still several paintings ofbulls and bullfighters as well assome fine book illustrations.(TàpiesAlso in the last room area few works by another greatCatalan painter, Antoni Tàpies.Master of an elegant AbstractExpressionism all his own, hiswork has little in common withthe more Surrealistic images ofhis compatriots Miró and Dalí,being more understated, poeticand monumental.)Other 20th-Century ArtistsFinally, there are somesmall but significant engravingsand lithographs by moderninternational artists, includingGerman Surrealist Max Ernst,Italian Futurist Robert Matta,French Dadaist André Massonand the English masters HenryMoore and Francis Bacon.Preserved lamp andmural,ValldemossaAgroturism: Sa Pedrissa (see p145), Deià
  • 21. For more beautiful parks and gardens in Mallorca See pp64–5Mallorca’sTop1024Top of terraced cascadeThe arcing waters ofthe pergola walkwayare operated from abutton at the start ofthe display. However,be aware that thestones under thearbour can becomevery slippery.Books and postcardscan be purchased atthe entrance ticketroom or snack bar.The garden snack baroffers delicious freshjuices, nuts and driedfruit, and other simple,refreshing tidbits,much of it from thefarm itself.Map C3 • Ctra. deSóller, km 17, Bunyola(just off main highwayC711, before toll boothfor the Sóller tunnel)• 971 613123 • 9am–5:30pm Mon–Fri; Apr–Oct to 6:30pm and also9am–1pm Sat • Adm€4.50A legacy of the Moorish talent for landscaping andirrigation, the Jardins d’Alfàbia were probably designedby Benhabet, a 13th-century Muslim governor of Inca.The pleasures of the gardens are made possible by aspring that always flows, even in the driest of summersin this very arid land. As well as providing a fabulousoasis for visitors, Alfàbia is also a working farm.Paved walkway with water jetsJardins d’Alfàbia!Entrance andGatehouse FaçadeA broad ramp leads pasta moss-covered fountainto a Baroque façade,which is set off with palmtrees, scrolling arabesquecurves and a pair ofwindows (above) calledojo de buey (ox-eye).Terraced CascadeTo the left of thegatehouse façade is astepped, terraced cascade(right). Watercourses, calledalfagras (little irrigationchannels), serve both apractical and a decorativepurpose here and in otherMoorish-style gardens.£Queen’s BathAn open-ended cisternframes a mirror-like pool,called the “queen’s bath”,which is the source of allthe water in the gardens.Beyond it is an indescribablylush garden scene.Top 10 Highlights1 Entrance and GatehouseFaçade2 Terraced Cascade3 Queen’s Bath4 Pergola and Walkway5 English-Style Gardens6 Trees7 Groves8 Hacienda9 Flemish Armchair0 CourtyardGardens and mountains@
  • 22. Mallorca’sTop10251234578 90$Pergola andWalkwayFrom an eight-sidedpergola, a paved walkway islined with ancient amphoraeshooting out jets of water.Between column pairs fourand five, don’t miss greetingthe black Mallorcan pig.%English-StyleGardensThese were created in the19th century and featurebougainvillea, vines, boxhedges, scarlet dahlias anda lily pond. Farm productsare sold at a snack bar.^TreesAn extraordinaryrange of trees flourishesin the gardens, includingwhite fir, maple, cedarof Lebanon, Montereycypress, poplar, datepalm, holm oak, carob,lemon, magnolia, walnut,eucalyptus and acacia.&GrovesThese magical areasare given over to denseplantings in which youcan lose yourself, withthe refreshing sound ofrunning water alwaysplaying in your ears.Hidden pools and ancientwalls are among thediscoveries to be made.*HaciendaAfter exploring thegardens, make your wayup the hill to the wisteria-covered, L-shaped hacien-da with Doric columns.Inside, traditionalllengues (flame) fabrics,old prints, instruments(above) and a guitar-shaped grandfather clockare among the exhibits.(Flemish ArmchairAlso in the hacienda is one of the old-est and oddest pieces of furniture on theisland (left). This 15th-century oak chairhas been known, among other things, asthe Moorish King’s Chair, but theimagery on it has now been identi-fied as the story of Tristan and Isolde.See if you can spot the king’s head.CourtyardThe courtyard(right) features a huge, 100-year-oldplane tree and a moss-coveredfountain. From here, you can visitsome of the other rooms, then exitthrough a pair of vast, bronze-covered hobnailed doors, whichwere originally those of the Palaceof the Inquisition in Palma.Plan of the Gardensand Buildings)Entrance
  • 23. Mallorca’sTop10Monestir de Nostra Senyora de LlucThe monastery at Lluc is the spiritual centre of Mallorcaand has been a place of pilgrimage for over 800 years.The main point of interest is the little statue of the Virgin(La Moreneta), which, so the story goes, was found by anArab shepherd boy who had converted to Christianity. Theimage was initially moved to the church but it kept return-ing to the same spot, so a chapel was built to house it.Each year, thousands of pilgrims come to pay homage.26Top 10 Highlights1 The Complex2 Basilica Entrance3 Basilica Interior4 La Moreneta5 Es Blavets6 Museu de Lluc7 Museum: ReligiousArtifacts8 Museum: Majolica9 Els Porxets0 El Camí dels Misteris delRosariBasilica façadeAfter you’ve visitedthe monastery,explore some of thenatural areas andcaves nearby, someof which are prehis-toric burial sites.Head for Sa Fonda, inthe erstwhile monks’grand dining room,which offers Mallor-can fare (closed inJuly). Otherwise, trythe Café Sa Plaça forsnacks, or the Rest-aurant Ca S’Amitger,Plaça Peregrins, 6,where you’ll findtortillas espanyols,fish, roast lamb,mountain goat andrice brut, a Mallorcancountry dish.• Map D2 • Museu deLluc 10am–1:30pm, 2:30–3:30pm • 971 871525• Adm €2£Basilica InteriorThe church (left) wasdeemed a Minor Basilica bythe Pope – its embellishmentsare probably the reason. Everyspare inch seems to havebeen laden with beaten gold.The columns are dark red jas-per, crystal chandeliers lightthe way, and the altarpieceis alive with golden curvesand gesticulating figures.@Basilica EntranceFacing an inner court-yard, the church’s façade isan appealing Baroqueconfection that relieves theplainness of the surround-ing structures. The pompousbronze statue that domin-ates is that of a bishop whohad a hand in sprucing theplace up in the early 1900s.Courtyard within the complex!The ComplexThe complex is ratherplain but set amid frag-rant forests of pine andholm oak, and laid outaround courtyards. There’sa good hostel, choirschool, several eateries,camp sites, picnicfacilities and a hugecovered area for outdoorcelebrations and services.La Moreneta (“theLittle Dark One”)
  • 24. For other great churches and monasteries see pp58–61Mallorca’sTop1027(Els PorxetsThe gallery of theold pilgrim’s hospice is apicturesque arcadedcorridor, with stables onthe ground floor andbedrooms off the pas-sageway on the upperlevel. Declared a Histo-rical Artistic Monument,it has recently beenrestored.$La MorenetaIn a special chapel stands the objectof pilgrimage, La Moreneta (“the LittleDark One”) – or, to be more precise, a15th-century, possibly Flemish version ofher. Unfortunately, the 1960s light fixturesin the chapel detract from the atmosphere.^Museu de LlucA broad collection ofMallorcana includes prehistoricand ancient artifacts, coins,religious treasures, vestments,sculptures, ceramics andpaintings, as well as modelMallorcan rooms from the 18thcentury.&Museum:Religious ArtifactsPieces from the original churchinclude a fabulous gilded Byzantinetrikerion (three-part sacred utensil)from 1390, a 15th-century woodentabernacle, a graceful 15th-centuryFlemish Virgin and Child (left), agold filigree reliquary for a Piece ofthe True Cross and severaldevotional paintings.*Museum: MajolicaIn the 15th century, Italyimported large amounts of tin-glazed pottery from Spain byway of the trade routethrough Mallorca, hence theterm “majolica” from themedieval name of the island.Until the early 20th century,this type of pottery was alsoproduced in Mallorca. Variousexamples are displayed.%Es BlavetsThe boys’ choir, EsBlavets (The Blues),was established in1531, named after theirblue cassocks. Pilgrimsand tourists queue upat 11am to hear thedaily concerts.El Camí delsMisteris del Rosari“The Way of the Mysteriesof the Rosary” is a pilgrim’sroute leading up the rockyhillside behind the complex,where a crucifix awaits.The broad path (right) ispunctuated by bronzesculptures framed in stone.Entrance)1234567890
  • 25. Mallorca’sTop10Península de FormentorThe final jutting spur of the Serra de Tramuntanahas stunning views, sandy beaches and theisland’s original luxury resort. With weird rockformations and jagged edges pointing up at 45degrees, its mountains rise to over 400 m (1,300 ft).The drive from Port de Pollença has dramaticscenery and is famously scary for its steep bends.28Top 10 Highlights1 Peninsula Road2 Main Miradors3 Watchtower4 Beach5 Hotel Formentor6 Casas Velles7 MountainTunnel8 Cap de Formentor9 Lighthouse0 Flora and FaunaWatchtower ruinsTo avoid the heaviesttraffic, visit early orlate in the day. If youtake the road up totheWatchtower, parkat the turnout justafter the first bunkers,slightly down fromthe top.That wayyou’ll avoid the park-ing snarls at the top.The Lighthousesnack bar has pizzas,sandwiches, olivesand drinks of allkinds. Sit on thebroad terrace forincredible views.For something morerefined, as well as farmore expensive,head for the HotelFormentor’s beachrestaurant on yourway back.• Map F1!Peninsula RoadThe famous road(above) is narrow but wellmaintained, forking off tothe Hotel Formentor inone direction and acrossto the cape in the other.Side-roads along the way– sometimes muchrougher – wind up to theWatchtower and giveaccess to the beach, aswell as makeshift carparks for Cala Figuera.@Main MiradorsOf the main miradors(viewpoints), Mirador deMal Pas (above) is closestto the road. From hereyou can walk along a wallwith dizzying panoramasof the rocks and seabelow. You can also seethe islet of Es Colomer.£WatchtowerThe Talaia d’Albercutx(below) has an amazing viewover the Peninsula and baysof Pollença and Alcúdia. Butthe road to it isvery bad, with-out guardrails, sohire a four-wheeldrive if you can.For a furtheradrenalin rush,you have to hikeup the last bitand climb thetower itself.View from Mirador des Colomers
  • 26. For more areas of natural beauty see pp36–7Mallorca’sTop1029$BeachIn a long, sheltered covewith fine sand and clear tur-quoise water (above), Platjade Formentor is served bothby road and a regular ferryfrom the Port de Pollença.Eating spots and tiki shadesabound. Expect crowds offamilies at weekends.%HotelFormentorThe posh resort (right)opened in 1929 andhas been pamperingthe rich and famousever since (see p141).Part of the Platja deFormentor is reservedfor hotel guests only.^Casas VellesAn old Mallorcanhouse is preserved in thegrounds of the HotelFormentor. There’s acharacteristic courtyardwith an old stone well, aone-room house and achapel with a melodrama-tic, life-size crucifix.&MountainTunnelThe road continuesthrough pine woods andpast more miradors onits way to En Fumatmountain. It then tunnelsthrough the raw rock ofthe mountain. For thosewho need more thrills,there’s a steep staircaseup the cliff above thetunnel’s western mouth.Cap de FormentorThe terrain becomes rockier towards theend of the peninsula, and soon you have aplunging view down to Cala Figuera,Mallorca’s most inaccessible beach, where afew boats have anchored. It’s a harrowingdrive out to the end, but you’re reward-ed with breathtaking views (right).(LighthouseAround the last curve, you comeupon the silver-domed lighthouse(left), set on a dramaticpromontory with viewsover the sea. On a goodday, you can see allthe way to Menorca.)Flora and FaunaThe peninsula is all wild:pine trees mostly, with scruband clump grasses, oregano,cactus and wild palmetto every-where. On a hot summer’s day,with cicadas buzzing, you’ll seewild goats, lizards and birds.*
  • 27. Grand Café, port areaIf you are arriving bycar, you should findample parking justoutside the old walls.Es Convent restau-rant, part of a finehotel (see p140), hasthe best food intown, Mediterranean-style with interestinginternational touches.• Map F2• Ca’n Torró Library,Carrer d’en Serra, 15;971 547311; May–Oct:10am–2pm, 5–8pm Mon–Fri; Nov–Apr: 10am–2pm,4–8pm Mon–Fri• Sant Jaume Church,May–Oct: 10am–1pmTue–Fri, 10am–noon Sun;Mass 9:30am, 12pm &7:30pm; adm €1• Museu Monogràfic,c/Sant Jaume, 30 (971547004); 10am–3:30pmMon–Fri; adm €2,includes ruined Romancity• Pollentia Ruins,adm included in ticket toMuseu Monogràfic• Teatre Romà, C/deSant Ana; open access;adm freeMallorca’sTop10AlcúdiaAt the base of a peninsula, this delightful walledtown was originally a Phoenician settlement andthe capital of the island under the Romans. It waslater destroyed by the Vandals, then rebuilt by theMoors, and prospered as a trading centre well intothe 19th century. Extensively restored, the towncontains many historical sites of interest.30Top 10 Sights1 City Walls2 Historic Centre3 Arab Quarter4 Ajuntament5 Ca’nTorró Library6 Sant Jaume Church7 Museu Monogràfic8 Pollentia Ruins9 Teatre Romà0 Oratori de Sant AnaPort d’Alcúdia!City WallsThe walls were addedafter the Spanish conquestin the 14th century, witha second ring added inthe 17th to further defendthe town. By the 19thcentury they had begunto show the decrepitudeof age and the vagaries oftown and industrialexpansion, but they havenow been restoredalmost to their originalstate. They are piercedwith gates and incorporate26 towers in all.£Arab QuarterThe narrow streets ofthe old town (below) areresonant of what life musthave been likeunder Arab rule,long after Romanorderliness hadbeen buried. Noone knows quitewhere the oldsouk (market)was, but it’s easyto imagine artis-an’s shops, withtheir wares spill-ing out onto thedusty streets.@Historic CentreWhile modern Alcúdiaextends beyond thecity walls and has acommercial porttown attached to it(see p41), most ofthe sights of historicinterest are locatedwithin or near thewalls. These includechurches, mansions,a museum andsome of the island’smost significantRoman ruins.Main gateway through city walls
  • 28. More ancient sites are on pp54–5Mallorca’sTop1031AjuntamentThe handsomeMediterranean-Revival-styleedifice was given its presentlook in 1929. Above thebalcony is a grand towerwith clock, belfry andweathervane, its pitchedroofs gaily tiled in red andgreen stripes (right).%Ca’nTorró LibraryOpened in 1990, the libra-ry is housed in a prime exam-ple of aristocratic architecturein the 14th century. It hostsconcerts and expositions.^Sant JaumeChurchThe 14th-century churchcollapsed in the winter of1870 but was recentlyrebuilt. The rose windowis lovely, and the innerrecesses feature amazinggold altars (above).&MuseuMonogràficJust one large room, butfull of great finds, espe-cially Roman artifacts andceramics. Particularlyintriguing are the beauti-ful bone pins and otherimplements for a Romanlady’s toilette.*Pollentia RuinsThe Roman city (left) reachedits peak in the 1st and 2nd centu-ries AD. You can see the foundationsof what may have been the forum,and insulae (apartments). A fewbroken pillars have been proppedup, but many of the stones havebeen removed over the centuries.(Teatre RomàThe island’s only in-tact Roman theatre isalso the smallest survi-ving one in Spain. Evenso, it would have heldabout 2,000 people, andtoday is sometimes thevenue for special concerts.)Oratori de Sant AnaThe tiny medievalchapel (right), on the mainroad to Port d’Alcúdia, wasbuilt in the 13th centuryand features a stonecarving of a very stockyVirgin and Child supportedby an angel.$
  • 29. For more great caves see pp44–5Mallorca’sTop10Coves del DracKnown since ancient times, these limestone caveswere mapped out by French geologist EdouardMartel in 1896. They are now one of Mallorca’stop attractions. Hundreds of people at a time maketheir way along the cavernous path, where artfullylit rock formations and lakes conjure up marvellousimagery. The name “Drac”means “dragon”, probably inreference to the mythicalcreature’s role as the fierceguardian of secret treasure.32Top 10 Features1 Garden2 Four Chambers3 Formations4 Lighting5 Fanciful Figures6 Subterranean Lakes7 Performances8 Boat Ride9 Exit0 Acuàrio de MallorcaColourful rock formationsAllow time to strollaround the gardenand visit theaquarium eitherbefore or after yourtour of the grottoes.A snack bar on-sitesells sandwiches,olives and drinks.Otherwise, head toPortocristo for one ofthe terrace café-restaurants, such asSassecador (see p118).• Map G4• Coves del Drac,Portocristo (also sign-posted as “Cuevas delDrach” from down-town); 971 820753;10am–5pm daily; toursonce every hour except1pm; adm €9.50 (freefor under 7s)• Acuàrio de Mal-lorca C/Gambí,Portocristo, 971 820971;10:30am– 6pm daily insummer, 11am–5:30pmin winter; adm €5, €2.50for children aged 4–8!GardenAs most visitors haveto wait before their tourbegins, the proprietorshave thoughtfully createda beautiful garden by theentrance. Mediterraneantrees and plants, such asolives, figs, violets andhibiscus provide the set-ting for striking displaysof limestone – one pieceeven evokes the shape ofa dragon. Gorgeous pea-cocks roam around.@Four ChambersVisitors descend to thecaves through the LuisArmand Chamber, part ofthe Frenchman’s Cave,which was discovered byMartel. The three othermain caverns are calledBlack Cave, White Caveand Luis Salvador’s Cave.The path is smooth andeven, and no guide speaks,so that visitors have theopportunity to contemplatethe scale and beauty ofthe place in peace.£FormationsThousands of stalactites(those hanging from above),stalagmites (those below),and columns(where the twomeet) range fromthe finest needlesto ponderous, mon-umental massifs(left). There arealso deep ravines,at the bottom ofwhich you cansee crystalline,impossiblyaquamarine andturquoise pools.The subterranean Lake Martel
  • 30. More ancient sites are on pp54–5Mallorca’sTop1033(ExitVisitors exit by footpast the Lake of theGrand Duchess ofTuscany and Chamber ofthe Columns to the Vesti-bule, which is a funnel-like tunnel leading backup to the surface.)Acuario deMallorcaA short walk from the cavesbrings you to a surpris-ingly good aquarium.Thelower floor has scores ofexotic species; the upperfloor is devoted to deni-zens of the Mediterranean.*Boat RideAs a delightful climaxto the performance, visi-tors are offered boat rides(left) on the lake – eightto a boat – steered byskilled gondoliers whoemploy an elegant figure-of-eight rowing style.%Fanciful FiguresFormations dubbedthe “Inquisition Chamber”or “Ariadne’s Labyrinth”were so named in theMiddle Ages; the “Buddha”and “Flag” speak of moremodern imaginations.$LightingThe cave illuminationsare the work of engineerCarlos Buigas. Crevices,chasms, planes and spa-ces are highlighted to max-imize the effects of chia-roscuro and depth (right). ^SubterraneanLakesOf the several subterran-ean lakes here, LakeMartel is one of theworld’s largest, at 177 m(580 ft) long, with an aver-age width of 30 m (98 ft).Its calm waters reflectthe lighting effects of theperformances (entry 7).&PerformancesSeated in anamphitheatre, innear pitch-darkness,the audience isregaled with a touch-ing display at the end ofthe tour. Hypnotic light-ing effects are accompa-nied by live music from asmall chamber ensemble,floating by on a rowboat.Highlights include Albi-noni’s Adagio, Pachelbel’sCanon and serene worksby Bach, Handel, Chopin,Boccherini and others.The Caves inAncient TimesLarge numbers of Talai-otic, Punic, Roman, Araband Almoravid artifactswere discovered in thecaves during archeolo-gical excavations in 1951.The finds are held invarious museumsaround the island forsafekeeping, but ruinsof a Cyclopean corridor,indicating a prehistoricsettlement, can still beseen at one point ofLuis Salvador’s Cave.
  • 31. 34Mallorca’sTop10Left Prehistoric walls Centre Christian sanctuary, Felanitx Right Alcúdia’s post-Unification wallsMoments in HistorySo-called Roman bridge, Pollença!PrehistoryNeolithic pastoral societieshave formed by at least 4000 BC.They live in the island’s cavesand keep domesticated animals.As bronze-working is introducedaround 1400 BC, the Talayotperiod begins (see Ses Paissesand Capocorb Vell, p55).@Carthaginian ConquestVarious peoples, includingthe Greeks, use the island as atrading post. However, the absenceof metal ores deters further col-onization until the CarthaginianEmpire spreads to this part of theMediterranean in the 7th century BC.#Roman ConquestIn the third century BC, Car-thage comes into conflict with theexpanding Roman Empire. Romeis victorious in 146 BC and estab-lishes order for the next 500years. Roads and towns are builtand, in AD 404, Mallorca and itsneighbouring islands are establ-ished as the province of Balearica.$Vandal InvasionNo sooner is the new prov-ince officially recognized, however,than the Vandals sweep acrossthe Balearics in about AD 425,swiftly ending Roman rule. Sodestructive is their takeover thatfew traces of the Romans are left.%Byzantine ConquestIn 533, the Byzantines defeatthe Vandals and bring the Balearicsunder their rule, restoring pros-perity and also an orthodox formof Christianity. From faraway Con-stantinople, Emperor Justinianrules the islands as part of theprovince of Sardinia. They enjoythis Byzantine connection untilthe end of the 7th century, thenbecome more or less indepen-dent, with close ties to Catalonia.^Moorish ConquestIn 902, the Moors occupythe islands and turn them into afiefdom of the Emirate of Córdoba.Through a succession of dynasticchanges, they hold on for thenext 327 years and forcibly con-vert all the inhabitants to Islam.&The ReconquistaIn 1229, King Jaume I ofAragón rises to oppose theBalearic Moors. His forces firstland on the westerncoast of the island atSanta Ponça, fromwhere he marcheseastwards to lay siegeto Medina Mayurqa(the Moorish name forPalma). The city fallsto him on 31 Decem-ber, after three months.
  • 32. For the Top 10 figures in religious history see p53Mallorca’sTop1035Top 10 HistoricalFigures!HannibalThe Carthaginian leader issaid to have been born on theisland of Cabrera, just offMallorca (Ibiza and Malta alsoclaim his birthplace).@Quintus MetellusRoman Consul who occu-pied Mallorca and Menorca inthe 2nd century.#Count BelisariusByzantine general who de-feated the Vandals here in 533.$Emir Abd AllahThis Muslim leader con-quered Mallorca and Menorcain the 10th century.%Jaume IChristian king who tookthe islands back from the Moorsin the 13th century and estab-lished remarkably liberal laws.^Pedro, Son of Jaume IJaume I’s violent son Pedroand grandson Alfonso III triedto take Mallorca away fromthe rightful heir, Jaume II.&Jaume IIThe rightful heir to Jaume I.He and his descendantscarried on Jaume I’s legacyuntil Mallorca was rejoined tothe kingdom of Aragón.*Ramon LlullGreat 13th-century mystic,poet and scholar who had aprofound influence onMallorcan spiritual life.(Robert GravesThe 20th-century Englishwriter, scholar and poet putMallorca on the internationalliterary map (see p96).)Adán DiehlThe Argentinean poet andvisionary built the Grand HotelFormentor in 1929 (see p29),marking out Mallorca as anupper-crust tourist destination.*The Kingdom of MallorcaDespite Jaume’s liberaltreatment of islanders, and hislaws embodied in the Carta dePoblació, the territory descendsinto turmoil after his death, dueto rivalry between his sons. Even-tually, his son Jaume II is restoredand succeeded by his son Sançand Sanç’s nephew Jaume III.(Unification with SpainIn 1344 the islands are onceagain thrown into chaos whenunited with Aragón by Pedro IV.Jaume III is killed during a feebleattempt to retake his kingdom. In1479, with the marriage of Fer-nando V of Aragón and Isabella Iof Castile, Aragón is in turnabsorbed into a new Spanishsuperstate. The islands becomean outpost of little importance,ushering in centuries of decline.)Since 1945Generalissimo FranciscoFranco instigates the develop-ment of mass tourism, whichbrings a much-needed influx offoreign money. This transformsMallorca from a backwater to oneof the 21st century’s choicestvenues of international stardom.The 1479 marriage that unified Spain
  • 33. 36Mallorca’sTop10In recent years, Mallorca has begun an active programme ofpreserving its natural habitatsAreas of Natural BeautyLeft Cap de Cala Figuera Centre Cap de Capdepera Right Parc Natural de S’Albufera!Cap de Cala FigueraPeninsulaMarked by a lonely lighthouse,this undeveloped area is officiallya military zone, but as long as it’snot closed or guarded, you canwalk out for a view of the entirebay. Nearby Portals Vells is anothertranquil area, while Platja ElMago is a nudist beach. d Map B5@Illa DragoneraThe spot that precipitatedthe current conservationmovement on the island is agreat place to hike, take a picnicor just visit for the sake of thecruise. In season, you can get aferry at either Sant Elm or Portd’Andratx. d Map A4£Mirador de Ricardo RocaA chapel-like structure at thislookout point has “Todo por lapatria” (“All for the Fatherland”)over its door – a remnant fromFascist times – with “patria”blotched out some time ago by aliberal-thinkingmember of the new Spain. Fromhere and a nearby café you’ll finddizzying views down to the seafar below. d Map B3$Barranc de BiniaraixTwo pretty villages lie in agorge opposite the towering pre-sence of Puig Major, Mallorca’shighest mountain. So evocative isthe silence of the gorge – brokenonly by sheep’s bells and the blea-ting of goats – that it has been soldas a record. d Map C2%Gorg BlauCreated by seasonal torrentsover millions of years, the ravinenear Sóller and Puig Major is upto 400 m (1,312 ft) deep but only30 m (98 ft) wide, with somesections never seeing daylight.Do not hike between the cliffs inwinter (see also p103). d Map D2^Torrent de PareisA box canyon at the spotwhere the “Torrent of the Twins”meets the sea is one of thegreat sights ofBarranc de Biniaraix
  • 34. See Around the Island for resorts and other attractionsclose to these areas of natural beautyMallorca’sTop1037the island. The scale of thescene, with its delicateformations and colours, isamazing, and the sense ofsolitude undisturbed, even by theusual crowds you will encounterhere. The tunnel-like path fromCala Calobra was carved out in1950. d Map D2&Península de FormentorThis jagged spur of the greatSerra de Tramuntana range hasbeen saved from overdevelop-ment mostly due to the fact thata large luxury hotel was builthere in the 1920s. The drive outto the lighthouse is unforgettable(see pp28–9). d Map F1*Parc Natural de S’AlbuferaPliny wrote of night herons,probably from S’Albufera, beingsent to Rome as a gastronomicdelicacy. The wetlandswere drained for agri-culture in the 19thcentury. What landwas left has nowbeen restored andturned into a naturereserve – the Medi-terranean’s largestwetlands. d Map F2(Cap deCapdeperaThe island’s eastern-most point is a greatplace to hike around,though the terrain generallynecessitates little more thaneasy strolling. You can go out tothe lighthouse on its cape ofsheer rock, or check out thepristine coves that lie lined up tothe north and south, includingCala Agulla, Son Moll, SaPedrusca and Sa Font de sa Cala.d Map H3)Parc Naturalde MondragóOne of the newer preservesestablished on the island, thisone is part nature, part heritagesite. It incorporates a full rangeof island terrains, from woodedhills to sandy dunes, as well asan assortment of rural structures.Come here for hiking, birdwatching,picnicking, swimming or simplygetting a feel for old Mallorca(see p114). d Map F6Mountain reservoir in the Gorg Blau
  • 35. 38Mallorca’sTop10Mallorca is one of the most important stopover points in theMediterranean for migrating birdsWildlife and PlantsLeft Balearic cyclamen Right S’Albufera wetlands!Birds of PreyThe island’s dashingEleanora’s falcons constitute animportant part of the world’spopulation – you cansee them around theFormentor lighthouse(see p29).The peregrinefalcon, too, breeds inthese parts, and youcan spot black vultures,red kite, eagles,Montagu’s harrierand long-eared owl.@Marine BirdsBirdwatchers come from allover Europe to see rare migrants,especially at the S’Albufera wet-lands (see p37), including marshharriers, herons, egrets, stilts,bitterns and flamingos. Seagulls(including the rare Audouin’sgull), sandpipers, cormorants,ducks, ospreys and terns livealong the rocky coasts.£SongbirdsSpeciesbreeding here, orstopping for a visitin the spring orsummer, includestonechats,warblers, thestripy hoopoe,partridges,bun-tings, finches,larks, curlews,thrushes, mar-tins, ravens,shrikes, turtledoves, pipits,swifts, swallows, the brilli-antly coloured Europeanbee-eater and theinimitable nightingale.$MammalsYou should see plentyof wild mountain goatsin the more remoteareas of Mallorca – andthey’ll certainly spyyou. Rabbits, hares,hedgehogs, civet cats,ferrets, weasels andother small creatures may takelonger to spot. The Mallorcandonkey is also an increasingly rareoccurrence – having been cross-bred with its Algerian cousin, thereare a mere handful of registeredmembers of the unalloyed speciesthat exist at present.%Reptiles and AmphibiansFrogs, salamanders, geckos,snakes and lizards abound on theisland. But perhaps the mostinteresting creatures are theendangered ferreret, a type offrog found only in the ravines ofthe Serra de Tramuntana, and theLilford’s lizard. Hunted to extinc-tion by their natural enemies onthe main island, the latter stillthrive on the smaller islets offshore, especially Cabrera. Anotherendangered species is the carettaturtle, which lives in the watersaround Sa Dragonera and Cabrera.^InsectsIn the warmer seasons,you’ll see plenty of colourfulBee-eaterWild goat
  • 36. Mallorca’sTop1039Orange groves, Serra deTramuntanaWildflowers in springbutterflies in the wood-ed areas of the island,as well as bees, may-flies and mean-lookinghornets. In hot weather,especially among ce-dars, you’ll be treatedto the song of the cica-das, keening away atfull volume, a wonder-ful reminder that you’rein the Mediterranean.But flies and mosqui-toes might take somedealing with.&WildflowersThe island is home to over1,300 varieties of floweringplants, of which 40 are uniquelyMallorcan. These include theBalearic cyclamen, giant orchidsand the delicate bee orchid.Spring and early summer are thetime to see them in all theircolourful bounty, but autumnalso can be good. Look outespecially for the asphodel withits tall spikes and clusters ofpink flowers, Illa de Cabrera’srare dragon arum with itsexotically hairy look, the rockrose in the Serra de Tramuntanaand the Balearic peonies.*Herbs andShrubsThese include the hair-like wild grass (Ampel-odesma mauritanica)used for fodder,thatching and rope;the Balearics’ onlynative palm, the dwarffan palm; giant yuccaand aloe; palmetto,used for basketry;aromatic wild rose-mary; wild broom; anative variety of StJohn’s wort; and thegiant fennel.(TreesThe mountain areas arecharacterized by pines, cedarsand evergreen holm oaks, whilepalms, cypress and yews havebeen planted on the island sincetime immemorial. Olives can reachgreat age (more than 1,000 years)and gargantuan size. They can alsotake on disturbingly anthropomor-phic forms – the 19th-centurywriter George Sand, in her bookA Winter in Majorca (see p18),tells of having to remind herself“that they are only trees”, whenwalking past them at dusk.)Cultivated PlantsSome of the flowering plantsyou see around the island areactually cultivated fordecorative purposes:for example, theoleander, purplemorning glory, aga-panthus, bougainvillea,Bignonia jasminoides(commonly called thetrumpet vine, withboth orange and pinkblooms – used ascover for pergolas),geranium andwisteria. Grapes andolives have been afeature of the Mallor-can landscape sinceRoman times.
  • 37. 40Mallorca’sTop10Left Port de Pollença Right Port d’AlcúdiaPorts and ResortsPort de SóllerPort d’AndratxSome of Mallorca’s best ports have been developed as topresorts; others are still little more than quaint fishing villages!Cala FornellsA pleasant resort madeup of coves with turquoisewater, sandy beaches andlarge, flat rocks on which tobask. Families flock here,and it’s good for snorkelling.Nearby Peguera has thenightlife (see p42). d Map B4@Port d’AndratxOne of the choicestresort ports on the island,frequented by the Spanish kingand other stellar visitors. Most ofthe restaurants and shops are onthe south side of the port, with aposh sailing club on the north. Thewater is azure and lapis, with touch-es of emerald, but the only beachis tiny. d Map A4£Port de ValldemossaMore a cove than a port, thebeach here is rocky, the housesare made of rock, and rockyvillas are dotted on the hill.Getting here involves a hair-raising series of hairpin bendsdown a cliff face that’s subject torockslides, especially after rains.The lone restaurant, Es Port, is atreat (see p100). d Map C3$Cala DeiàA narrow winding road fromDeià (see p96) leads to apicturesque cove surrounded bysteep cliffs. The beach is shingle,and the water is very clear.Getting down to it by car is theusual routine of narrow switch-backs. d Map C2%Port de SóllerThe lovely bay offers calmwaters for swimming, and a
  • 38. Mallorca’sTop1041pedestrian walk lines thebeaches. The resort hotels andnightlife venues cater to bothyoung and old. Don’t miss a rideon the antique tram that scootsto and from downtown Sóller(see also p96). d Map C2^Port de PollençaThe family-friendly resortsituated 6 km (4 miles) to theeast of Pollença town, beside apleasant bay, is an attractiveplace with a long, sandy beach.Many retired foreigners havemade the town their home (seealso p104). d Map E1&Port d’AlcúdiaBig and a bit brash, thisresort town has it all, includingwhat most visitors might preferto do without – terrible fast foodjoints and too many fluorescentlights creating a ghostly palloralong the promenade by night.Still, the beaches are good,some of the restaurantsexcellent and the nightlife non-stop (see also p105). d Map F2*Cala RajadaIdeal for watersports of allkinds, but the town itself feels alittle cramped and overused,though it is still a fullyoperational fishingport. Fine coves andbeaches nearbyinclude popular CalaGuyá, Cala Mezquidaand Cala Torta, whichallows nudists (seealso p116). d Map H3(Platja deCanyamelIf a tranquil resort iswhat you’re after, thismight be the place tocome. Even in highseason, it remains aquiet, family-oriented place – justa long, curving sandy beachbacked by pine forests, with afew tasteful hotels here andthere. d Map H3)PortopetroAlthough on the verge ofbeing swallowed whole by Calad’Or (see also p116), this littlefishing village has so far managedto retain its original flavour –possibly because there is nobeach, and only one hotel in town.Charming to walk around and ad-mire the slopes dotted by villas,or maybe just use as your baseto vist the entire area. d Map F6Cala Rajada
  • 39. 42Mallorca’sTop10Left Peguera Right Cala d’OrBeachesCamp de Mar!Platja de PalmaAt the height of the holidayseason, this 5-km (3-mile) longbeach near the airport becomesexceptionally busy. Numeroushotels, apartments and clubscrowd behind a row of cafés andbars next to the beach.d Map C4/T2@PegueraA sprawling hotch-potch ofmodern structures and touristattractions on a bay ringed bysandy beaches and pleasant pineforests. This is where Jaume I,the Conqueror, first came ashorewith his army to retake theisland from the Moors; now theonly interlopers are the yachtingenthusiasts in the ultramodernmarina. d Map B4£Camp de MarThis tiny, modern urbanizació(development) has an excellentbeach and a pier running out to asmall rocky island in the middleof the cove. You can also climbup on the windswept cliffs ofCap d’es Llamp. d Map B4$CalaTuentOn the wild northern coast,where the opalescent hues ofmassive cliffs and sea meet, thisis probably the area’s quietestbeach, since it’s bypassed bymost of the crowds who cometo see the nearby Torrent dePareis (see pp36 & 103). d Map D2%Cala Sant VicençThe area consists of threecoves – Cala Sant Vicenç, CalaBarques and CalaMolins – with anappealing aura ofintimacy. The first twohave tiny but perfectbeaches, gorgeouswater and views. Thethird is down a hill,with a broader beachand more of a singlesatmosphere (seep104). d Map E1Platja de Formentor
  • 40. Mallorca’sTop1043^Platja de FormentorDaytrippers from Port dePollença love to come here,either by car or ferry, to partakeof the same pristine sands andpure waters as the guests of thegrand Hotel Formentor. Theunspoiled views here are amongthe very best on the island (seealso p29). d Map F1&Cala MillorOne of the most popularresorts on the east coast ofMallorca. The first hotels beganto appear here as early as the1930s, but the real tourist inva-sion did not start until the 1980s.Similar to neighbouring Cala Bonaand Sa Coma, Cala Millor hasmany beautiful beaches; the mainone is 1.8 km (1 mile) long and isquite magnificent. There are bars,restaurants and clubs aplenty, allover-crowded in summer. To seewhat this coast used to be like,walk to the headland atPunt de n’Amer naturereserve. d Map G4*Cala d’OrActually acollection of eightcoves, which, takentogether, comprise themost upmarket enclaveon the southeasterncoast. Though sprawl-ing, the developmentsare characterized byattractive low-rise,white structuresabundantly swathed ingreenery (see p116).d Map F5(Colònia de SantJordiThe town has a hand-ful of modest hotels, afew restaurants, apretty beach and aninteresting harbour. Many peoplecome here with the sole purposeof catching a boat to nearbyCabrera (see p115), which,according to Pliny, was thebirthplace of the famousCarthaginian leader, Hannibal.The town’s other main attractionis the nearby salt lake, fromwhich huge quantities of saltwere once extracted – the mainsource of the town’s wealth.d Map E6)EsTréncThis splendid beach is every-one’s favourite, and weekendswill find it very crowded withsun-worshippers from Palma.The rest of the week, it’s thedomain of nudists, nature-lovers,and neo-hippies. It remains theisland’s last natural beach, inter-rupted only by the complex ofvacation homes at Ses Covetes(see p116). d Map E6Cala Millor
  • 41. 44Mallorca’sTop10Left PortalsVells Right Entrance to the Coves D’ArtaCoves and CavesBendinatMallorca’s coastline is characterized by countless coves, many ofthem beautiful and some of them with remarkable caves nearby!IlletesThe western sideof Palma Bay is gene-rally upmarket, and“The Islets” typify thearea’s allure. Tiny is-lands, intimate coves,rocky cliffs and rollinghillsides are accen-tuated with attractivevillas and a scatteringof exclusive hotels.d Map C4/R2@Portals Nous and BendinatThese merged developmentsform one of the more exclusiveresorts on the Bay of Palma: notmany high-rise hotels, just rowsof private villas and apartmentsdominating the shoreline. PortPortals marina is the summerhome of the jet-set. d Map C4/R2£Portals VellsNear the southern tip of PalmaBay’s western shore, severalvirtually private coves and theirsandy beaches await, includingthis one and adjacent Cala Mago,the only officially nudist beachnear the city. The rocky cliffs arethe stuff of local legend, whichrecounts that shipwrecked Italiansailors fulfilled a vow in recom-pense for their salvation bycarving an entire chapel out ofsolid rock (see p58). d Map B5/Q3$Coves de GènovaThough they pale in compari-son with the larger caverns onthe eastern coast, these caves,discovered in 1906, are close toPalma and feature some interest-ing formations. A knowledgeableguide will show you around.d C/Barranc, 45, Gènova • Map C4/R2• 971 402387 • Jun–Sep: 10am–1:30pm& 4–7pm daily; Oct–May: 10:30am–1pm& 3–5:30pm Tue–Sun • Adm €6%Cala PiLush and beautiful, with animmaculate beach and excellentrestaurants. Perhaps because ofthe abundant vegetation, the airseems fresher here than else-where on the island. d Map D6Ses Illetes
  • 42. Confusingly for English-speakers, caves are called coves inMallorquin and Catalan, while coves are called calas in SpanishMallorca’sTop1045^Cova Blava (Blue Grotto)This pretty little watersidecave is incorporated as part ofthe return trip to the island ofCabrera (see p115). Like it’sfamous forerunner on the Isle ofCapri in Italy, this Blue Grottooffers the amazing spectacle ofthe outside light being filtered upthrough the aquamarine waters,creating a ravishing luminositythat seems at once spectral,gem-like, and visually delicious.You can swim here, too. d Map H6&Coves del DracTake a quiet walk through anunderground fairyland. The visitincorporates a concert on thelarge underground lake, withcaptivating lights reflected in themirror-like waters. Then take aboat to the other side andcontinue your exploration (seepp32–3). d Map G4*Coves d’es HamsThe lighting in these cavernsis more carnival-like than theothers, and there’salso a subterraneanlake, with boat ridesand a light and musicshow as part of yourtour. Guides will giveenough information todelight a speleologist,and the peculiar cave-dwelling crustaceanswill be pointed out(see p113). d Map G4(Coves d’ArtàThese caves haveinspired many overthe centuries, especially sincethey were studied in the 19thcentury. In summer, you .cantake a boat cruise to them fromCala Rajada and Font de Sa Cala– the seaside exit is verydramatic (see p113). d Map H3• Cruises May–Oct: three daily)Cala Figuera,Cap de FormentorCutting a chunk out towards thevery end of dramatic Península deFormentor, this cove lies at thebottom of a precipitous ravine. It’saccessible either on foot – youpark up above, just off the roadthat winds out to the lighthouse– or by boat. Once there, theviews of the surrounding cliffsare awesome, and the beach andwater make it one of the island’smost inviting swimming spots(see p29). d Map F1Rocky cove, Palma BayCala Figuera
  • 43. 46Mallorca’sTop10Outdoor Activities and SportsLeft Cycling Centre Golf Right Paragliding!Snorkelling and DivingVirtually all the tranquilcoves around the island are idealfor snorkelling, with plenty ofrocks and hidden recesses toexplore. A favourite is the covedown from Estellencs (see p50).As for scuba diving, there areseveral centres, including at Portd’Andratx and Cala Rajada (seepp40–41), offering the gear andboat trips out to the best spots.@OtherWatersportsParagliding and jet-skiing are popular.Though windsurfing isalso popular aroundthe whole island, it isreally best only on theeastern and southerncoasts, where thewaters tend to becalmer, and within theprotected bay of thePort de Sóller(seepp40 & 96). You canhire the equipmentfrom various estab-lishments along thebeaches.£Hiking andRock-ClimbingThe island is a hiker’sdream, with no end oftrails, many of themmarked and mappedout. There are compel-ling challenges forclimbers, too, on therocky cliffs thatabound along the entire length ofthe Serra de Tramuntana, fromSóller in the west to the end ofthe Península de Formentor inthe east. Tourist offices andparks offer published guidelinesfor tackling the island’s wilds.$CyclingYou’ll see groups of avid cyc-lists, decked out in their colourfulthreads, all over the island, fromthe twistiest mountain roads tothe narrowest stone-walled lanes of Es Pla.Given the challengesmost people experi-ence when driving inMallorca, it takes a bitof nerve to negotiatethe same roads ontwo wheels. But youcan easily rent bikesof all types in mosttowns, and the land-scape is certainly con-ducive to cycling.Watersports at Cala DeiaClimbing near Sóller
  • 44. Mallorca’sTop1047Watersports equipment for hireYachts, Port d’Andratx%GolfThis is a sport that has takenMallorca by storm. Courses areprevalent near the big resorts,though some of the finer hotelshave their own and many morehave putting greens. There aresome 18 major golf coursesscattered all around the island.d Golf Son Termens, Bunyola (971617862) • Capdepera Golf (971 818500)• Club de Golf Vall d’Or, Portocolom-Calad’Or (971 837001)^BoatingYou can hire sail boats ormotor boats for yourself, or signon for a full-day or sunset cruise,many of which also featurewater-skiing and other activities,and buffet lunches. They are theonly way to explore some of theisland’s more inaccessible – andtherefore virtually private – coves.&FishingAs with other water activities,there are a number of boats thatwill take you out fishing for theday, particularly from the smallport towns that still fish the seascommercially, includingPortocolom (seep116). The bays ofPollença and Alcúdia(see pp104–5) are alsopopular for fishing.*Bird-WatchingNature reservesare best for birdsightings, especiallythose on the north-eastern coast,S’Albufera and thePenínsula de Formentor (seepp36–7). Spring and autumn areoptimal times to visit, whenmigratory birds use Mallorca as astaging post between Europeand Africa. The isolated islandsof Sa Dragonera and Cabrera(see p115) are also excellent.(The BullfightThere are five bullrings:in Palma, Muro, Alcúdia, Incaand Fulanito, though historicallythe bullfighting tradition has notbeen so important to Mallorcans(or to Catalans generally) as inother parts of Spain. In season,between March and October,there are eight or nine bullfights.The killing, albeit executedaccording to strictly ceremoniousguidelines, can be bloody andpathetic, so be warned.)FútbolThere are two football(soccer) teams in Mallorca: RealMallorca and Atlético Baleares,both of whom play in Palmaduring the season, which runsfrom early September to April.Real Mallorca has enjoyedconsiderable success in recentyears, and, in any case, attendinga match can be a fun, high-spirited, and good-humoured wayto see the locals participating inthe game they love the best.
  • 45. 48Mallorca’sTop10LeftWalkers, Palma Centre Bunyola–Orient road Right Sa Calobra road (“The Snake”)Walks and DrivesView from Sa Calobra!Palma’s Walls (Walk)The best part of the old wallfor walking is along the Parc de laMar (see pp64 & 90). d Map K–P5@La Reserva (Walk)The reserve on the slopes ofPuig de Galatzó is best describedas “Mallorca’s paradise”. A 3.5 km(2 mile) trail leads past waterfalls,springs and olive trees. d Map B3• Two hours • Adm €10.50£Sant Elm to SaTrapa (Walk)This popular walk leads to anold Trappist monastery (and futuremountain refuge) and has fineviews of the island of Sa Drago-nera. A shorter route is signpostedbeside the cemetery on the SantElm–Andratx road. d Map A4 • Threehours for whole route$Puig de SantaEugénia (Walk)From the village ofSanta Eugénia, walkto Ses Coves, used atvarious times as bandithideouts and winecellars. From here, aseries of tracks takesyou up to a pass andthe cross on the summit of Puigde Santa Eugénia, affording fineviews. d Map D3 • Two hours to top%Archduke’s Mulepath (Walk)Only experienced walkersshould attempt this day-longround trip from Valldemossa. Redmarkers take you up to a miradorand a high plateau before droppingback down through a woodedvalley. d Map C3 • Six hours^Andratx RoundTrip (Drive)Take the main highway northof Andratx to the Mirador RicardoRoca, Banyalbufar, then Miradorde ses Ànimes (see p56) for stun-ning perspectives. Turn towardsSa Granja, then pass down throughPuigpunyent, Puig de Galatzo,Galilea, Es Capdellà and back toAndratx. d Map B3–4 • Two hours&Old Road to Sóller (Drive)The drive over the Coll deSóller, with its 57 hairpin bends,is the most terrifying in Mallorca.But it’s worth it to see what lifeused to be like before the tunnelopened. d Map C3 • About 45 minutesSince most of the island remains undeveloped, there are plentyof opportunities to explore off the beaten trackSection of Palma’s city walls
  • 46. Mallorca’sTop1049Top 10 Peaks!Puig MajorThe island’s highest moun-tain is part of the Tramuntanarange. Its stark, rocky promin-ence provides a powerfullandmark for miles around(see p106). d 1,447 m (4,747 ft)@Puig de MassanellaThe highest mountain thatcan actually be climbed on theisland. d 1,367 m (4,484 ft)£Puig de ses BassetesSouthwest of Massanella,near the beautiful Gorg Blaureservoir, among some ofMallorca’s most stirring land-scapes. d 1,216 m (3,989 ft)$Puig d’esTeixIn the heart of the mostverdant part of the Tramuntana,northeast of Valldemossa.d 1,062 m (3,484 ft)%Puig GalatzóOverlooks the picturesquevalley of Puigpunyent, northof Palma. d 1,025 m (3,363 ft)^Puig RoigJust north of the holy siteof Lluc and named for its reddishcolour d 1,002 m (3,287 ft)&Puig CaragolerAccess is via Camí Vell deLluc, a pilgrim trail that used tobe the only way to get to LlucMonastery. d 906 m (2,972 ft)*Puig MorellGood for hiking, this is thehighest peak in the Serres deLlevant by the southeastcoast. d 560 m (1,837 ft)(Puig de RandaThe only highpoint on theCentral Plain – site of Santuaride Nostra Senyora de Cura(see p61). d 543 m (1,781 ft))Puig Sant SalvadorThe second highest peakin the Serra de Llevant, hometo a well-loved monastery(see p61). d 510 m (1,673 ft)*Sa Calobra (Drive)Driving anywhere aroundPuig Major affords great viewsand challenges your drivingskills. This purpose-made road –which translates as “The Snake”– has earned its name, with 270-degree loops and other harrow-ing features. It leads to a tinysettlement, where you canexplore the dazzling beauties ofthe box canyon created overaeons by surging torrents (seep106). d Map D2 • About 30 minutes(Pollença to Puig deMaria (Walk)You’ll find the signpost to Puigde Maria at Km 52 on the mainroad from Palma to Pollença. Asanctuary, set on an isolated hillthat dominates the bays ofPollença and Alcúdia, offersstirring views of the Penínsulade Formentor. d Map E1–2 • 90minutes to top)Bunyola–Orient–Alaró(Drive)Another extremely narrow roadthat threads its way along preci-pitous mountain ridges, but worthit for the unforgettable views.The town of Orient is a prettyeagle’s-nest of a place, and theglimpse of Castell d’Alaró willfire your imagination (see p50).d Map C3–D3 • About 1 hour with stopsOn mountain hikes, take food and water, a map, compass, whistleand mobile phone, as well as protection from sun, wind and rainMirador de ses Anímes
  • 47. 50Mallorca’sTop10Left Estellencs Right CapdeperaVillagesFor nalutxAlaró!EstellencsThough it is apretty terraced townin a magnificent moun-tain setting, its oldhouses of grey-brownstone – left unplas-tered and unadorned –were essentially builtfor defence. Even the15th-century churchbelfry was used as aplace of refuge, aswere most towers onthe island (see alsop98). d Map B3@DeiàSpilling down a steep hillside,Deià’s earth-tone houses are, tomany, the finest on the island.English poet and writer RobertGraves and his artistic friendscertainly thought so, bringinginternational fame to this reallyrather modest town. Today, thetiny artists’ retreat has beenbought up by the wealthy, thoughit still retains its humble appear-ance (see also p96). d Map C2£FornalutxOften voted Mallorca’s loveli-est town – if not all of Spain’s –this enchanting mountain villagewas founded by the Moors in the12th century. The tiny town squareis a friendly gathering place, butit is the heady views peopleremember – up to the island’shighest mountain and down intoa verdant chasm below (see alsop97). d Map D2$OrientAgain, it is themountain setting thatdazzles: this tiny,remote hamlet ofsome 40 houses hassome of the finestviews the island hasto offer. It’s also anexcellent base forhikers or anyone whojust wants to breathethe exhilarating air (seealso p98). d Map D3%AlaróAt one end of a very scenicmountain road, under the shadowof the commanding Castell d’Alaró,this pleasant village dates fromat least the time of the Moors. Ifyou want to climb up to thecastle, drive up to Es Vergerrestaurant and proceed on foot:the ascent takes about 45minutes and the view ismarvellous (see p97). d Map D3
  • 48. Mallorca’sTop1051^BinissalemThe town is probably secondonly to Palma in the number andsplendour of its mansions, datingfrom the 18th century, when itbecame the centre of a boomingwine business. All that ended atthe end of the 19th century,when phylloxera wiped out thevines, but wineries are making acomeback these days, producinggood reds (see p121). d Map D3&Santa Maria del CamíA way station for wearytravellers through the centuries,the village has a charmingBaroque belfry, the Convent delsMínims and a quaintly traditionalMallorcan textile factory (seep125). d Map D3*AlgaidaMost people passthrough the outskirtsof this small town ontheir way to Puig deRanda, but it’s worthstopping for somegood restaurants,where the people ofPalma dine at week-ends (see p125). TheGordiola Glassworks(see p123). are alsonearby. d Map D4(SantanyíFounded in 1300 byJaume II, Santanyí wasgiven a protective walldue to its proximity tothe coast. Only part ofthat wall remains but itgives the place a certaincharacter. For thisreason, the town hasattracted a large numberof foreign dwellers, whohave turned it into arather cosmopolitan,well-kept place com-pared with nearbytowns. Check out the art galle-ries on the main square (seealso p117). d Map F6)CapdeperaThe extremely large andwell-preserved medieval fortressthat dominates the ridge abovethe town is the main reason tocome to Capdepera. With itscrenellated walls draped over therolling hilltop, it is certainly anoble sight and one of Mallorca’sfinest castles. Some sort of forthas been here since at leastRoman times, and more or lesscontinuously used throughoutcenturies of internationalsquabbles and pirate raids (seealso pp57 & 113). d Map H3Orient
  • 49. 52Mallorca’sTop10Watching the Setmana Santa procession in PalmaFestivals!Revetla de SantAntoni AbatOne of Mallorca’s mostunusual festivals, inhonour of St Anthony,the patron saint of pets.For two days in January inSa Pobla, pets are ledthrough the town to beblessed outside thechurch. Elsewhere, dancersdrive out costumed devils,to ensure harmony duringthe coming year, andeveryone circles bonfires andeats spicy pastries filled withspinach and marsh eels. d 17 Jan• Palma, Sa Pobla, Muro and elsewhere@MaundyThursdaySetmana Santa (Holy Week)in the capital city is observed bya solemn procession of some5,000 people parading an icon ofthe crucified Christ through thestreets. d Mar or Apr • Palma£Good FridayMany Mallorcan towns haveprocessions during Holy Week.The Calvari steps in Pollença are thescene of a moving re-enactment,the Davallament (the Lowering)each Good Friday, when in totalsilence a figure of Christ is re-moved from a cross and carrieddown the steps by torchlight.d Mar or Apr • Pollença & elsewhere$Festas de Sant SebastiàMallorca’s capital cityhonours its patron saint withfireworks, dragons, processions,street concerts and beachparties in one of theisland’s most colourfuland exuberant festivals.d last fortnight in January• Palma de Mallorca%Festa de Nostra Sen-yora de la VictòriaPort de Sóller is the venuefor a mock battle betweenChristians and Moors, incommemoration of askirmish in which Arabiccorsairs were routed in 1561.Expect lots of rowdy, boozy fun,brandishing of swords and thefiring of antique guns. d Around9 May • Port de Sóller^Corpus ChristiParticipants dress up aseagles and perform the Ball delsÀguiles (“Dance of the Eagles”)in Pollença’s town square. Whatexactly this has to do with themiracle of Transubstantiationduring Holy Communion is notreally explained, thus scholarssuspect the celebration’s originsare pre-Christian. d Jun • Pollença&Día de Mare de Déudel LarmeThis celebration of the patronsaint of seafarers and fishermentakes place in various coastalsettlements. Boats are blessed,torches are lit (as at Port deSóller), and sailors carry effigiesof the Virgin. d 15–16 Jul • Palma,Port de Sóller, Colònia de Sant Pere,Portocolom, Cala Rajada & other portsFesta de SantJaume
  • 50. Most island festivals are religious in origin, but some celebratefamous victories, some food and others the artsMallorca’sTop1053Top 10 Figures inReligious History!LlucAn legend recounts thatover 700 years ago, an Arabboy named Lluc, recentlyconverted to Christianity,discovered the effigy of theMadonna at Lluc (see pp26–7).@Ramon LlullThe 13th-century mysticfounded several religiousobservances on the island.£KnightsTemplarA rich and powerfulbrotherhood of Christianmilitary monks (see p90).$Inquisition JudgesThe hated Inquisition wasintroduced to the island in1484 and led to the burningalive of at least 85 peoplebetween 1484 and 1512.%XuetesThe name given to theJews who were coerced bythe Inquisition into convertingto Catholicism.^Junípero SerraImportant 18th-centurymissionary, born in the townof Petra (see p122).&Santa CatalinaThe island’s only home-grown saint, Santa CatalinaThomàs was born in the 1500sin Valldemossa (see pp18–19).*Cardinal DespuigThe 18th-century cardinaldeveloped the more opulentside of church life on theisland (see p95)(Bishop CampinsThe driving force behindthe renewal of the monasteryat Lluc as a pilgrimage site.)GaudíHighly devout himself, thearchitect was responsible forthe restoration of Palma Cath-edral and other holy sites.*Festa de Sant JaumeSt James is celebrated withthe usual summer highjinks, inclu-ding folk dancing, fireworks andparades, featuring an icon of thesaint and various religious symbols.d Week leading up to 25 Jul • Alcúdia(Mare de Déu dels ÀngelsAnother, even longer battlebetween the Christians and theMoors, this time in Pollença.The town spends a whole yearpreparing for the event, in whichhundreds of youths dress up.d 2 Aug • Pollença)Festa de ÀngelVillages across Mallorcacelebrate the Feast Day of theAngel with a pilgrimage to theirlocal shrine. The biggest eventtakes place in Palma’s Castellde Bellver (see pp12–13) butthe pilgrimage from Alaró (seep50) to its castle is also verycolourful. d Sunday after EasterRevetla de Sant Antoni AbatChristians fighting Moors, Port de Sóller
  • 51. 54Mallorca’sTop10Left Ses Paisses Right Palau de l’Almudaina Right Jardins d’AlfàbiaAncient PlacesBanys ÁrabsHumans have inhabited Mallorca for at least 5,000 years –see pp34–5!Sa Seu,PalmaThe Romans had some sort ofmajor building on the site ofPalma’s Cathedral, and it wasgraced with an importantmosque under the Moors. Theexisting edifice shows thestylistic influences of both thoseand other cultures (see pp8–9).@Palau de l’Almudaina,PalmaMany Moorish elements can stillbe appreciated in the old, ramblingpalace (see pp10–11).£Banys Àrabs, PalmaThese private baths probablybelonged to a wealthy Moorishresident and, together with theirgardens, have incredibly comedown to us virtually intact.However, closer examinationreveals elements from even earli-er sources. The columns, eachone different, were doubtlesslytaken from an ancient Romanbuilding (see p87).$Jardins d’AlfàbiaAlthough later Renaissanceand Baroque touches are evidentin the gardens and house, theunderlying Arabic styling predom-inates. The many watercoursesare a distinctly Moorish touch, aswell as the little oasis-like grovesof trees encircling pools, whereyou can sit and enjoy the freshair and the music of gurglingrivulets (see pp24–5).%Castell d’AlaróThis lofty castle was origin-ally used by the Moors as astronghold. It proved to be vir-tually impregnable – conqueredonly after extremely long sieges,with its unfortunate defenderseventually being starved out. TheChristians refurbished the oldstructure and continued to use itfor centuries (see p97).^Castell del ReiThe Moors chose anotherpicturesque spot for their “Castleof the King”. The battered ruinswe see today, high above thesea on a barren crag, are theremains of medieval embellish-ments made by Jaume I. It wasnot effective against pirates, whosimply landed at nearby CalaSant Vicenç, but it was the last
  • 52. Mallorca’sTop1055stronghold to surren-der to Aragoneseinvasions in the 14thcentury (see p106).&PollentiaThe Moorish townof Alcúdia is built overan ancient Romansettlement calledPollentia. Little morethan a few originalRoman columns andfoundations remain insitu – after beingburned by Vandals in AD 440, theantique structures were disman-tled to help create the new town(see p30–31).*Ses PaissesThese Bronze Age remainsform one of Mallorca’s mostimpressive prehistoric sites. Thedefensive wall, composed of hugesquare blocks, is an example ofthe Mediterranean Cyclopeanstyle – so-named by latercultures who believed that only agiant like the Cyclops could havebuilt such a structure (see p113).(Ses CovetesMidway along the beach atEs Trénc is the site of what wereprobably ancient Roman burialgrounds, where ashes of the deadwere placed in small niches. It iscalled a columbarium (dovecote)because it resembles a pigeonhouse, with small openings linedup in rows (see p116).)Capocorb VellThese well-preserved mega-lithic ruins, from the Talaioticculture that dominated the islandsome 3,000 years ago, are similarto those found at Ses Paisses.The word “Talayot” refers to thetowers at such sites, which weretwo or three storeys high. Thecentral round towers are theoldest elements here; aroundthem is an encirling wall andsquare towers to complete thedefensive complex (see p115).PollentiaCapocorbVell
  • 53. 56Mallorca’sTop10Left Castell de Bellver RightTalaia d’AlbercutxCastles and TowersTorreVerger at the Mirador de ses Anímes!Castell de BellverOne of just a handful ofround castles in the world, andimpeccably preserved, thisbuilding conjures up images ofdamsels in distress and boldknights galloping to the rescue.In fact, its history is more prosaic– it was a prison for enemies ofthe crown for hundreds of years(see pp12–13).@Dragonera IslandTowerThe ancient watchtower onone of Mallorca’s most pictur-esque island nature reservesmay date as far back as Romantimes. It may not be much tolook at these days, but it’s funjust to hike around the unspoiledisland and imagine what it musthave been like during a raid, withcorsairs storming the place andsignal fires warning the rest ofthe island (see p98).#Torre VergerAt the Mirador de sesAnímes, a watchtower, built in1579, provides what must beamong the finest views of theentire western coastline. You canclimb up into the stone structureand stand on the topmost level,just as watchmen must havedone in the dark centuries whenMallorca was subject to almostincessant attack by North Africanbrigands (see also p98).$Castell d’AlaróThis remote castle wasattacked several times over thecenturies, each time proving itsdefences against everything ex-cept prolonged siege. Alfonso IIIfinally took it in 1285. The twoleaders of the patriots wereburned alive by the king, who, inturn, was excommunicated bythe pope (see also pp54 & 97).%Castell del ReiWith Moorish origins andChristian additions, this castlenever served its defensive purposewell, as raiders simply avoided it.It was demoted to merely awatchtower, and, in the early18th century, abandonedaltogether. Today, its ruins are apanoramic destination for hikers(see also pp54 & 106).^Talaia d’AlbercutxAt the highest point on thePenínsula de Formentor is a towerthat seems wondrous for havingbeen built at all in such a precipi-
  • 54. Mallorca’sTop1057tous place. At thisheight, the wind howls,and the views are likethose from a helicop-ter. The road to it isperilous, too (see p28).&Sant JoanBaptista BelfryLocated in the townof Muro, this beautifulbell tower seemsalmost Arabic, so slen-der is the arch thatjoins it to the impo-sing church. However,it sports otherelements that recall Gothic andRenaissance styles, includingstone carvings, a decorative doorand coffers. The square in whichit is situated is one of theisland’s prettiest (see p121).*Castell de CapdeperaAnother wonderful Mallorcanfortress that epitomizes the fairy-tale castle. The approach is apleasure in itself, as you passfragrant plants and rocky outcrops,and the views are memorable. Itwas built by King Sanç in the14th century (see p113).(Castell de SantueriOne of several castles withthe same name, thisis about 6 km (4 miles)southeast of Felanitx.It was built in the 14thcentury right into thecliffs on the site of aruined Arab fortress.The view takes ineverything fromCabrera to the Cap deFormentor. You candrive here or walk,ideally from the equallyimposing, nearbySantuari de SantSalvador (see p61).)Castell deCabreraThe 14th-centurycastle on the island ofCabrera, off Mallorca’ssouth coast, has achequered history,subsequent to itsoriginal purpose as adefence measure forthe southern reachesof the main island.At various times it hasbeen a pirates’ den;a crowded, deadlyprison for 9,000French soldiers in the19th century; and an outpost forFranco’s Fascist forces in the20th century. Now the island itoversees is a nature preserve,and a climb up to the crumblingold fortress will be rewardedwith some stupendous views(see also p115).Castell de CapdeperaSantuari de Sant Salvador
  • 55. 58Mallorca’sTop10Left PortalsVells Cave Church Centre Sineu parish church Right Detail, Porreres hilltop churchChurchesBasilica of Sant FrancescEvery little village in Mallorca has a huge parish churchdominating its central square!Sa Seu, PalmaMallorca’s grandestchurch is also one ofthe greatest Gothicchurches anywhere.Flamboyant spires withstone flames give it aprickly look. The vastspace and riches insideare also unforgettable(see pp8–9).@Església de SantaEulalia, PalmaBuilt just after theChristians reclaimedthe Balearics in the 13th century,this church has a rare Gothichomogeneity, despite some latermedieval touches and 19th-century additions (see p90).#Basilica de SantFrancesc, PalmaBuilt in 1281 on a site where theMoors made soap, this churchhas suffered its share of woes,most notably whenstruck by lightning in1580. Consequently,the façade you seetoday is a Baroquecreation, thoughpresumably no lessmassive than theGothic original. Thebeautiful cloisters arethe star turn, and, infact, you must enterthe church by goingthrough them first(see p88).$Portals Vells Cave ChurchOne of the caves along therocky headland of Portals Vells(see p44) has been turned into achurch, Cova de la Mare de Déu– according to legend, byshipwrecked Genoese sailorswho were grateful for theirsurvival. The holy water stoupand altar have been carved outof solid rock, although the effigyof the Virgin that was onceplaced here is now in a seafrontchurch at Portals Nous.%Nostra Senyora delsÀngels, PollençaFeatures include a vibrant rosewindow with elaborate arab-esque stone tracery outside andan intriguing sculpture, located ina side chapel, of St Sebastian,nonchalantly resting on thearrows that pierce his body. Notethe floor tiles with roosterheads, the symbol of the townof Pollença (see p103).Interior, Santa Eulalia
  • 56. Many churches on the island are open only for services; those withvisiting hours generally open their doors 9am–noon & 4–6pmMallorca’sTop1059^Santuari de la VictòriaThe fortress church was builton a rocky headland near Alcúdiain the 1600s to house an earlystatue of the Virgin. Despitethese measures, the figure wasstolen twice by pirates. Theviews are sweeping, and it’s alsoa starting point for great hikesover the promontory (see p106).&Nostra Senyora de laEsperança, CapdeperaThe story goes that once, whena band of loutish brigands werepreparing to attack the town ofCapdepera, the townspeopleimplored the Madonna to helpthem. A thick fog promptlysettled in, confounding thepirates. Since then, the town’sstatue has been known as SaEsperança (“the bringer of hope”).It is housed in a quaint Gothicchapel within the famous castleat Capdepera (see p113).*NostraSenyora delsÀngels, SineuMallorca’s grandestparish church, at thehighest point of atown that wasdeclared the officialcentre of the island byKing Sanç, can bevisited only on market day,Wednesday. It has a smallarchaeological museum. d Map E3(Sant Bernat,PetraPetra was the birthplace of FrayJunípero Serra, who establishedmissions all over California in the1700s and early 1800s. Thetown’s stocky church com-memorates the man (see p122).)Oratori de Montesió,PorreresPart of a former monastery, this14th-century hilltop church over-looks the small agricultural villageof Porreres. It has a five-sidedcloister, an unusual arcadedfaçade with elegant Gothic lines,and great views out to sea. Thesetting is a wonderful venue forspecial concerts sponsored bythe town, featuring internation-ally known talents. d Map E4Santuari de laVictòriaNostra Senyora dels Àngels, Pollença
  • 57. 60Mallorca’sTop10Left Carthusian Monastery Right Nostra Senyora de LlucMonasteriesVery few of the many monasteries actually have monks or nunsnow, but most can be visited and have great views!CarthusianMonastery,ValldemossaSet in one of the mostappealing towns onthe island, this formerroyal residence andmonastery has a richhistory. Mostcaptivating of all tothe myriad visitorswho come here is thepoignant story of thewinter visit ofcomposer FrédéricChopin, dying of tuberculosis,and his lover George Sand, alongwith her two children – all ofwhom left copious records oftheir experiences (see p18–19).@Ermita de Sant LlorençAt Cala Tuent on the wildnorthern coast (see p103) is asmall 13th-century hermitageperched high above the coast. Itwas remote then and remainsrelatively so today. d Map D2£Nostra Senyora de LlucNot so much an activemonastery today as a place ofpilgrimage that also drawstourists and nature-lovers. This isMallorca’s holiest spot, high inthe mountains, and has been asacred zone since time immem-orial. The complex has an attrac-tive church, with a special chapelto house the venerated image,and there are also pilgrim pathsto climb and nature trails toexplore (see pp26–7 & 146).$Ermita de NostraSenyora del PuigJust to the south ofPollença, this sereneplace with marvellousviews houses one ofthe oldest Gothicimages of the Virginon the island. Theunassuming stonecomplex, datingmostly to the 18thcentury, comprises acourtyard, a chapel,fortified walls, a refec-tory and cells. You can rent aroom here (see pp104 & 146).%Ermita de BetléUp in the hills northwest ofArtà (see p116), this monasteryhas a lovely vantage point,400 m (1,312 ft) above the sea.It dates from 1804, when agroup of hermits decided torebuild the church that had beendestroyed years before bypirates. The church is tiny andcrudely frescoed, but it’s worththe hike. Bring a picnic. d Map G3Ermita de BetléErmita de Sant Miquel
  • 58. Accommodation in monasteries is covered ingreater detail on p146Mallorca’sTop1061^Santuari deSant SalvadorPilgrims and othervisitors can stayovernight at thisformer monastery,which has a trulyspectacular setting,right at the top of theSerres de Llevant. Youcan’t miss it: the site’shuge stone cross and statue ofChrist can be seen for milesaround (see also pp114 & 146).&Ermita de Nostra Senyorade BonanyThis monastery is on top of Puigde Bonany. A stone cross waserected here in 1749 for JuníperoSerra (see p122), before he lefton a mission to California. Thesanctuary was built in the 17thcentury as an act of thanksgivingfor a good harvest – bon any or“good year”. The modern churchdates from 1925 and is enteredvia an imposing gate decoratedwith ceramic portraits of St Pauland St Anthony. The forecourthas panoramic views. d Map F4*Ermita de Sant MiquelJust east of Montuïri (seep123) is a small monastery withviews over the fertile fields of EsPla. Facilities include acafé-restaurant andnicely restored monks’cells where, for anominal amount, youcan stay so long asyou don’t mind sharinga bathroom. d Map E4(Santuari deNostra Senyorade CuraRamon Llull (see p35)founded this hermit-age at the top of thePuig de Randa tablemountain in the 13th century,and it was here that he trainedmissionaries bound for Africa andAsia. Nothing remains of theoriginal building, but Llull’s legacyhas ensured that the site is animportant place for Catholics,who can stay overnight in simplerooms. The monastery, much ofwhich is fairly modern, houses alibrary and study centre. Thereare other hermitages lower downthe hill (see next entry). d Map E4)Santuari de NostraSenyora de GràciaThe lowest hermitage site on Puigde Randa (see previous entry) isset on a ledge in a cliff above asheer 200-m (656-ft) drop andhas beguiling views out over theplain. It was founded in 1497 andappears, along with nesting birds,to be sheltered by the huge rockthat overhangs it. d Map E4Santuari de Nostra Senyora de Cura
  • 59. 62Mallorca’sTop10Left Museu Diocesà Centre Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró Right Spearheads, Museu de MallorcaMuseumsPanel, Museu de MallorcaThe style Catalans call Modernista is what some other countriescall Art Nouveau, Liberty or Jugendstil!Museu Diocesà,PalmaHoused in the formerEpiscopal Palace, thistreasure trove containsarchaeological artifacts,ceramics, coins, booksand paintings spanningthe 13th to 16th centu-ries. Highlights includethe jasper sa rcopha-gus of Jaume II, anArab tombstone and a paintingof St George and the Dragonwith a background impression ofwhat 15th-century Palma mighthave looked like (see p87).@Museu de Mallorca, PalmaThe palace that houses thisterrific museum dates from1634. The collections present afull and well-documented rangeof Mallorcan artifacts, from theprehistoric up to fine examplesof Modernista furniture. TheTalayot figures – small bronzewarriors – and recreations ofNeolithic dwellings are otherhighlights (see p88).#Museu d’Art EspanyolContemporani, PalmaOne of the finer legacies left byMallorcan Joan March, whobecame the world’s third-richestman during the Franco era, inwhat many say was a dubiousrags-to-riches rise. The renovatedmuseum aims to spotlight thecontributions of Spanish artiststo the global art scene, so you’llfind works by Picasso, Miró, Dalíand Gris, and also Mallorca’sgreatest modern painter, MiquelBarceló (see p90).$Fundació Pilar i JoanMiró, PalmaMiró’s Mallorcan roots go deep –both his mother and his wifewere Mallorcan-born, and thegreat artist spent the last yearsof his life on the island. So it isMuseu d’Art Espanyol Contemporani
  • 60. Museums tend to open around 10am, close at 1pm for a few hours,then reopen from around 5–7pm. They usually close on Mondays.Mallorca’sTop1063entirely fitting that the place heworked in that final period shouldhave been turned into a museumdevoted to him (see pp14–15).%Museu Municipalde ValldemossaThe range of objects on displayis vast and eclectic, such as thehistory of printing in Mallorca,the work of an Austrian archduke,paintings inspired by the moun-tains of the Tramuntana, andimportant works by modernmasters (see pp20–21).^Museu de LlucAn interesting hotchpotch ofprehistoric artifacts, Romanfinds, ceramics (including somelovely majolica), religious pieces,and an exhaustive array of worksby 20th-century Valdemossanartist Josep Coll Bardolet, wholiked mountain scenery (see p27).&Museu Munici-pal de PollençaIn a former Dominicanconvent, the museumincludes prehistoricsculptures shaped likebulls and an exquisiteTibetan sand paintinggiven by the DalaiLama in 1990.d C/Guillen Cifre de Colonya• Closed Mon • Adm*Museu Mono-gràfic, AlcúdiaThis small butbeautifully designedmuseum houses allthe finds from ancientRoman Pollentia, suchas cult figures, weightsand measures, surgicalinstruments, needles,games, jewellery andgladiatorial gear(see p31).(Museu Etnològic, MuroFascinating glimpses intoMallorca’s past include a recreat-ed traditional kitchen pharmacy.There is a fine collection ofsiurells (Mallorcan clay whistles)featuring men on horseback. TheFelanitx pottery bears the charac-teristic floral decoration. d C/Major,15 • Map E3 • Closed Mon • Adm)Museu GordiolaA fine exhibition of howMallorcan glass is made and amuseum dedicated to the his-tory of glassmaking, fromancient Mesopotamia to the verylatest high-style creations ofthe Murano works in Italy orSteuben in the US (see p123).Glass, GordiolaFundació Pilar i Joan Miró
  • 61. 64Mallorca’sTop10Left Decorative wall at Parc de la Mar Right Jardines de Sa FaixinaParks and GardensBanys Àrabs Gardens!Parc de la Mar, PalmaWith its artificial lake, sectionof city walls and great views, thisis a lovely place to stroll at anytime. At night, the sparkling citylights and warm glow of the near-by cathedral and palaces add amagical quality (see pp48 & 90).@S’Hort del Rei, PalmaGentle jets of water andbowl-shaped fonts characterizethis long and lovely Arab-influenced garden. As the namesuggests, it was once the king’sprivate garden. Today, it is opento all, and the home of eccentricmodern sculpture. d Map K4#Banys Àrabs Gardens,PalmaTo the Moors, who came froman arid land where the oasis wasthe symbol of life, water was thevery essence of a garden. Thecloistered gardens at the BanysÀrabs baths (see p87) evoke thatideal – it was here that thewealthy owner would relax afterhis bath, and breathein the fragrant,tranquil air. d Map M5$Jardines de SaFaixina, PalmaThese gardens startwhere AvingudaArgentina meets thePasseig Marìtim, andrun up to Plaça LaFaixina alongside theold moat. There areterraced lawns, treesand flowers, and a few fountainsand odd columns providing awelcome respite from all thestone and asphalt of the newersections of Palma. d Map M5%Son MarroigThe famous ArchdukeSalvador (see p20) had manyhomes on Mallorca, but SonMarroig was his favourite. Thegardens, though terraced in theancient Arabic fashion, aredeliberately left a bitwild in keeping withthe slightly rough lookof the natural islandflora. All this vibrantnature neatlycontrasts with thehigh Renaissancerefinement of thearchitecture, especiallythe gazebo that offerscoastal views of suchexquisite perfection(see p95).Jardins d’Alfàbia
  • 62. Following pages Cala FigueraMallorca’sTop1065^Jardí BotànicThe botanical garden wasfounded in 1985 as a centre forthe conservation and study ofMediterranean flora, especiallythat of the Balearics. The plants,many of which are endangered,include wild flora, medicinalherbs and flowers, fruit trees andvegetables. d Ctra. Palma-Sóller, km30.5, Sóller • Map C2 • 10am–6pmTue–Sat • 10am–2pm Sun&Jardins d’AlfàbiaThe island’s finest exampleof a profoundly Arabic gardendates back 1,000 years. Naturally,in all those centuries the luckyowners (Mallorca’s most illustri-ous families among them) haveadded their own touches, result-ing in Renaissance and Baroqueelements in the landscape designand building features (see pp24–5).*RaixaSquarely of the late ItalianBaroque or early Rococo style ofthe 1700s, Raixa gardensbelonged to a wealthy cardinal,who liberally indulged his tastefor collecting Classical statuary.However, only a fraction of hiscollection remains in the gar-dens; the rest now adorns theCastell de Bellver in Palma (seepp12–13). d Map C3(Jardins CasaMarchJoan March was anative-born magnatewho allegedly madehis fortune from illegaltobacco and armstrafficking. His oldmansion near CalaRajada, built in 1916,has lavish groundsincorporating watergardens, pine woodsand fruit groves. Over40 works of modern sculpture inthe gardens include a bronze byRodin and a piece by HenryMoore. d Map H3 • Visits arranged bythe Tourist Office • 971 563033 • Adm)BotanicactusEurope’s largest botanicalgarden has an amazing 12,000cacti to admire, including a 300-year-old giant from Arizona. Thereare also the Balearics’ largestnavigable lake, palms and bamboogroves. Mallorcan flora is show-cased through olives, pomegran-ates, almonds, pines, oranges,carobs and cypresses. d Ctra. deSes Salines a Santanyí, Ses Salines • MapE6 • 971 649494 • Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm;Oct–Mar: 10:30am–4:30pm • AdmSon Marroig
  • 63. 68Mallorca’sTop10Family AttractionsLeft Marineland Right Coves d’Arta!MarinelandChildren love the displays ofdolphins, seals and sea lionsshowing off their acrobatic andaquatic skills. Kids can also swimin a pool of gentle rays, whichfeel like velvety gelatine. d Costad’en Blanes, Calviá • Map Q2 • 971675125 • Dec–mid-Nov: 9:30am–5:15pm;Jul & Aug: 9:30am–6:45pm • Adm@AquaparkAn extensive complex ofpools and water slides to keepkids happy for a full day. Parentscan relax in the garden areas.d Ctra. Cala Figuera, Magaluf-Calviá • 971130811 • May–Oct: 1–5pm; May & Jun:10am–5pm; Jul & Aug: 10am–6pm • Adm#Wild West ParkThe full title of this attractionis the “Western Park Crazy WetWest”. Highlights include horse-riding shows, cowboys-and-Indians battles and can-candancers. A water-park featureswater rides and chutes for thekids, and Jacuzzis for the grown-ups. Tots and teens both will loveit, and mums and dads can relaxin the garden-café areas betweenshows. d Ctra. Cala Figuera-Sa Porassa,Magaluf • Map B4/Q2 971 131203• May–Oct: 9:30am–7pm • Adm$AquacityPools, slides and chutesgalore at this huge water-park.Dragonland involves a giant sea-dragon whose mouth you can“ride”. Other highlights include theGrand Canyon scoop slide andthe Devil’s Tail tube. There’s alsoa great pool for kids. d AutovíaPalma-Arenal, Km 15, salida (exit) 13• Map T3 • 971 440000 • May–Oct:10am–5pm; Jul & Aug: 10am–6pm • Adm%Tram from Sóller toPort de SóllerBoard a tram at the little stationabove the main square of Sóller,which will take your family 5 km(3 miles) down through town andalong the water’s edge to thePort de Sóller. Thecars are ex-SanFrancisco rollingstock from the1930s, operating ata rattling snail’space. d Map C2• 7am–9pm; departsevery half hour • Adm^Museu de laJuguetaCan Planes, a refur-bished mansion inSa Pobla, has a greatAquacity
  • 64. Tips for families are on p134Mallorca’sTop1069Toy Museum with many Spanishantiques. Old comic strips, a dollthat spins a hula-hoop aroundher waist, game boards andelaborate dolls’ houses are someof the exhibits that will fascinateand delight. d C/Antoni Maura, 6, SaPobla • Map E2 • 971 542389 • 10am–2pm & 4–8pm Tue–Fri • Adm&HidroparkThere’s more than enoughhere to keep your brood busy fortwo full days. The water-park hasone of the highest undulatingslides on the island and thespiral tube satisfies the mostdemanding of thrill-seekers. Formore sedate moments, play around on the miniature golfcourse (see p69). d Avda. Tucán,Port d’Alcúdia • Map F2 • 971 891672• www.hidropark.com • May–Oct10:30am–6pm (closed Sunin Oct) • Adm*CavesYoung adventur-ers will love the thrillof exploring Mallorca’scaves, especially theCoves d’Artà, whichexit onto the open sea(see pp44–5 & 113). Atthe Coves del Drac, thepitch darkness at a cer-tain moment will exciteyour children, thoughthe very young mightbe frustrated at having to walk insilence for so long (see pp32–3).(Auto-Safari ParkA huge hit with anyone whoenjoys being surrounded by Africangiraffes as tall as trees, rhinos asbig as tanks and monkeys thatjump on everything, even on topof cars. Facilities include aplayground for the younger ones(see p69). d 4km north of Portocristo •Map G4 • 971 810909 • Apr–Oct: 10am–4pm Mon–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun • Adm)JumaicaThe Ca’n Pep Noguera is abanana plantation, established in1973, when the owners started totransform the arid land into a tropi-cal garden. It’s a mini-paradise offarm animals, birds and exoticplants. d Map G4 • Ctra. Portocolom-Portocristo, Km 4.5 • 971 833355• 9am–5:30pm daily • AdmAuto-Safari ParkSóller tram
  • 65. 70Mallorca’sTop10Left El Corte Inglés Right Loewe fashion shop on Avinguda Jaume IIIShopping PlacesFor the best individual shops in Palma and around the islandsee pp91, 99, 107, 117 & 124. For shopping tips see p138.!El Corte Inglés,PalmaPalma has two branchesof Spain’s only true depart-ment store, the qualityand prices of which arefirmly upmarket. d Avda.Alexandre Rosselló, 12 • Avda.Jaume III, 15 • 10am–9:30pm@AvingudaJaume II, PalmaThis elegant, arcaded avenue isone of Palma’s main streets forchic boutiques, including Cartierand Loewe and good local shopssuch as Persepolis for antiques(see p91). Worth a stroll even ifyou don’t want to buy. d Map J–K2£Casal Balaguer, PalmaA Renaissance-style 18th-century mansion is the showplacefor local artists sponsored by theCírculo de Bellas Artes. d C/Unió,3, Palma • Map M2 • 971 712489• 11am–1:30pm, 5:30–8:30pm Tue–Fri,11am–1:30pm Sat • Free$Passeig de laRambla, PalmaBuilt on what was once aseasonal river bed, thislong promenade doesn’thold a candle to Barcelona’sfamous Ramblas, but islined with flower stallsand definitely worth aramble. d Map L1–M2%Tejidos Artesania, SantaMaria del CamíWherever you go all over theisland, you’ll see the festiverobes de llengües (tongue offlame cloth) they make here, inevery possible colour anddesign. To watch it being madeat this out-of-the-way spot isworth the trip in itself, plus youcan buy bolts of fabric and ready-made items (see p124).^IncaThough Inca is a dull town, itis the island’s centre for theproduction of leather goods.Countless outletsoffer buttery leatherjackets, supplehandbags, trendyshoes and a host ofother stylish items(see p124).&Sa PoblaMarketThe town’s centralsquare on a Sundaymorning is the placeto be if you want tosee what a realAvinguda Jaume IIIFlower stall, Passeig de la Rambla
  • 66. All markets normally run from very early in the morning untilabout 2pm, except for the two Friday afternoon markets notedMallorca’sTop1071Top 10 Markets!Palma Daily MarketsPasseig de la Rambla forflowers (see entry 4), PlaçaMayor, Mercado del Olivar, Mer-cado de Santa Catalina, Merca-do de Pere Garau and Mercatde Llevant for produce.@Palma Weekly MarketsSundays offer the hugeConsell Market, while Saturdayis the day for the vast El RastroPalmesano Flea Market, onAvda. Alomar Villalonga.£Villages on SundayA great day for villagemarkets: Valdemossa, SantaMaria del Camí, Inca, Sa Pobla,Pollença, Muro, Alcúdia,Portocristo, Portocolom,Felanitx and Llucmajor.$Villages on MondayManacor and Montuïri, alsoat Caimari, Calvia and Lloret.%Villages onTuesdaySome of the lesser-knownvillages: Escorca, Campanet,Alcúdia, Santa Margalida, Artà,Portocolom, Porreres, S’Arenal.^Villages on WednesdayBig day for markets, espe-cially at Sineu. Others atAndratx, Escorca, Selva, Portde Pollença, Capdepera,Petra, Santanyí, Colònia deSant Jordi and Llucmajor.&Villages onThursdayThe island’s leather capital,Inca, as well as Escorca, Cam-pos, Ses Salines, Llucmajor.*Villages on FridayMorningInca for leather, Binissalem, forwine, and Esporles, Escorca, SonSevera, Marratxi and Algaida.(Villages on FridayAfternoonAlaró and Can Picafort.)Villages on SaturdayNaturally, Saturday is a bigmarket day all over the island.country market is like. You willfind the freshest produce –strawberries and potatoes arespecialities here – and have thechance to sample the local spicytapas (see also p121).*SineuMarketSineu is one of the mostinteresting towns of Mallorca’scentral plain (Es Pla), and itsWednesday market is one of thebiggest agricultural fairs inMallorca, where local produceand livestock are traded. Pearls,leather and lace are among thegoods on offer. d Map E3(ManacorPearlsThe unprepossessing town ofManacor is notable for itsmanufactured goods, with prideof place going to its world-famous artificial pearls. The stan-dards of fabrication are exacting,as a free tour of the factory willreveal, and the shimmeringcolours and variety of shapesindistinguishable from true pearls(see also pp122 & 124).)GordiolaGlassworksDespite the rather kitsch buildingit’s housed in, this place is wortha prolonged visit. Watch theglassblowers engaged in theirdangerous art, spend an hour inthe museum upstairs, and at leastanother hour browsing throughthe vast warehouse shops withtheir prodigious output ofbeautiful glassware (see p123).Market stalls, Inca
  • 67. 72Mallorca’sTop10For more top nightspots on the Southwest Coast see p101, on theNorth Coast p109, and on the Southeast Coast p119NightspotsLeft Abraxa dance floor CentreTito’s logo Right Gran Casino Mallorca entrance!Abraxa, PalmaOne of Palma’s top clubsand located along the waterfront,this huge place specializes inloud house music. As withnightlife venues all over Spain,the action doesn’t get going untilabout 1am – so don’t arrive earlyand be considered hopelesslynaïve or desperate! It’s a mixedcrowd at all times, though thereare regular gay-themed nights inseason. d Avda. Gabriel Roca, 42 • 971455908 • www.abraxasmallorca.com • Adm@Tito’s, PalmaPalma’s otherhuge nightlife venue ispopular with a youngercrowd, from teens to20-somethings. Thedécor is all verymodern, with lots ofstainless steel inevidence, and thelight show and soundsystem are, of course,up-to-the-minute, themusic ranging fromhouse to top-40.Sunday night is GayNight. d Entrances from PaseoMaritimo and Plaça Gomila, 3 • 971730017 • www.titosmallorca.com£Sa Posada de Bellver,PalmaLocated just above all thehubbub of Plaça Gomila, thisidiosyncratic, friendly little placewill remind you of a gypsyencampment. Expect live ethnicmusic most nights, and aneclectic range of non-Spanishfoods – Middle Eastern fingerfoods and other exotic treats.It isn’t remote, but it feels thatway. d C/Bellver, 7 • 971 730739$Gran Casino Mallorca,CalviàThe Las Vegas-style casino-cum-nightclub is a chance tobe tempted by both fate andsome lavish buffets. In summerthey offer a programme ofconcerts from classical to jazz.Smart dress. (see p101).Gran Casino MallorcaThe bar at Abraxa
  • 68. Following pages Cala FormentorMallorca’sTop1073%Barracuda, Portd’AndratxKeep an eye out for this club’sposters all around the port –they’re particularly original andcollectible, the work of JorgeBascones. The vivacious youngwoman who runs the spaciousplace is very talented atdreaming up new theme nightsthat manage to appeal to justabout everyone in town – atleast to all those who enjoy bop-ping the night away (see p101).^Opio Bar, PalmaPopular with Palma’s sizablejet set and fashionable visitors,the Opio Bar is in the HotelPuro, one of a handful of newboutique hotels that has madethe Mallorcan capital chic again.The decor is minimalist whitewith dashes of red and the soundsplayed by the resident DJ arelaid-back cool. d Hotel Puro, C/MonteNegro, 12 • 971 425450 • 8am–2pm&Chivas,Port de PollençaAfter you’ve revved up at Port dePollença’s pubs, then strolledaround the promenades and cen-tral square to check out the end-less stream of attractive youngpeople, this is the place to makefor next. Nothing unusual aboutit, but it’s the disco of choice forthe 20-something cognoscenti –at least for the moment – whocome here to dance till dawn, goback to the hotel for 40 winks,then hit the beach (see p109).*Menta, Port d’AlcúdiaThis is a well-run club withan exciting range of rooms andareas for full-on partying, havinga quiet drink with friends, oreven taking a nighttime dip in apool fit for an emperor. It’s abeautiful and inviting place, runwith an unerring sense of styleand good taste – it’s glitzy, ofcourse, but never tacky. Thelocation is a bit off the beatentrack, but it’s worth whatever ittakes to get there (see p109).(Es Carreró, PortocristoThis little street, quiet andunassuming by day, turns intothe hub of the resort at night.Innumerable tiny music-drinks-dance venues open up, and theyoung, beautiful, and restlessturn out in droves to partake ofthe varied pleasures – all ofthem decked out in their bestmylar and polyester finery. It’s astirring sight, and the airpositively vibrates with all thepumping beats that emanatefrom every doorway (see p119).)Beez-Neez Bar, PortocolomCarrer Assumpció isPortocolom’s premier nightlifestreet, lined with pubs andclubs. Holding pride of place atits centre is the Beez-Neez, alarge, friendly British pub that isthe resort’s most consistentlypopular place just to hang out,lift a pint, launch some darts orwatch Sky TV (see p119).Beez-Neez BarChivas
  • 69. 76Mallorca’sTop10Left Rosamar Hotel Centre Aries Hotel Right Black Cat signGay and Lesbian Venues in PalmaAlmost all of Palma’s gay and lesbian venues are lined up in anarea called La Gomila, west of the city centre!Ben Amics AssociationThis group provides Mallorcawith its pink hotline – only twohours a day, weekdays, but it’s agreat connection for newarrivals.There are get-togethersfrom time to time, including asort of café that opens sporadic-ally. d C/Conqustador, 2 • 900 777500• 9pm Mon–Fri • Not available in Aug@Café LorcaJust off Plaça Gomila, anddown a few steps, this friendlyhangout is where locals congre-gate, so it’s a good chance tofind out what the scene is reallylike from those who live it.d C/Garcia Lorca, 21 • 10am–late£Aries Hotel, Club& SaunaA large, comfortable hotel, withits own nightclub and exclusivelygay sauna, located on the streetthat’s action-central for gay life onthe island. The friendly staff areScandinavian, Dutch, English,German and other nationalities,and they all do their best tocreate a fun atmosphere.d C/Porres, 3 • 971 737899• www.ariesmallorca.com$MarcusThe subdued lighting inviolet tones and the classicalstatuary dotted around mayseem a bit passé, but there’salways a good turnout, usually of30- and 40-somethings. It’s aquiet alternative to the mostlyfrenetic life in the other bars andclubs. d Avda. Joan Mirò, 54 • 971286144 • From 10pm%DylanA lively choice – probablybecause of the gay videos thatare always playing. The placeis open to the street at one end,so there always seems to besomething happening or aboutto happen. d Avda. Joan Mirò, 68• 10pm–3am^Rosamar Hotel& BarThis rainbow hotel isthe place to stay ifyou want to be whereall the action is. Itspatio bar is where theinternational mix ofyoung and beautifulA-list gays congre-gates before headingoff to the dance floor.d Avda. Joan Mirò, 74• 971 732723 • From 11pmMar–Dec • www.rosamarpalma.comCafé Lorca
  • 70. Mallorca’sTop1077Top 10 Gay/LesbianAreas Outside Palma!Platja y Dique del OesteLocated at Porto Pi, neardowntown Palma, this is anoted gay-friendly beach.@Platja El MagoNear Portals Vells andMagalluf, on the westernend of Palma Bay, this is arecognized nudist beach.£Cala BlavaThe “Blue Cove” is a popu-lar gay section of the vast beacharea along S’Arenal, on theeastern curve of Palma Bay.$El BosqueAt the northern end ofS’Arenal, “The Woods” alsoattracts gay revellers.%Es CarnatgeClosest to Palma on theeastern side, at Ca’n Pastilla,this is another popular gaygathering point.^Valle de la LunaAn association offering acultural and artistic exchangeplatform for mainly Germanand Spanish women in theSóller area. d 971 632821• www.vallemallorca.de&Platja de MuroJust to the north of C’anPicafort and south of Portd’Alcúdia, this beach is acongregation point for gays.*Cala es GullóOne of several handsomecoves just to the north of CalaRajada, this one is particularlyknown for being gay-friendly.(Punta de N’AmerSouth of hyper-busy CalaMillor, the excellent beach hereis full of international gay vibes.)Platja EsTrencThe island’s finest unspoiledbeach, a place for nudists andalternative sun-worshippers ofall sorts (see p43).&Bar StatusA long-standing favourite,Bar Status is a relaxed,welcoming bar catering to aslightly older crowd. It is a goodplace to start the night, and thefriendly staff will happily givetips on where to go. d Avda. JoanMirò, 38 • 10pm–3am*N.P.I. PubThis is mainly one for thegirls, although it does attract amixed crowd. Low, mellow musicand a chilled-out atmospheremake it the perfect spot toget together with friends.d C/Industria, 27 • 10pm–3am(Black CatThe cover charge here willget you in not only to dance andcheck everybody out, but also tobe regaled with a stage showthat generally features both dragacts and male “exotic dancers”.d Avda. Joan Mirò, 75 • From midnight)BruixeriesThe name of this tiny,lesbian-run disco/bar means“spells”, and every few months awhite witch comes in to give itthe once-over. Downstairs thereis a resident DJ and upstairs youwill find a pool table. The crowdis young and pretty but exclusivelyfemale. d C/Estanc, 9 • 9pm–3am.Dylan
  • 71. 78Mallorca’sTop10Left Carved ham Centre Olives Right An ensaïmadaCulinary Highlights!Pa amb OliThis is the favouriteMallorcan (and greaterCatalonian) snack –a regional versionof the moreinternationallyknown bruschetta.The basic item issliced bagette rubbedwith garlic thensmeared with freshtomato, drizzled with olive oiland sprinkled with salt. To thisbasic recipe, you can addwhatever you please – usuallyham and/or cheese. The vibrantflavour is utterly irresistible.@Frit Mallorquí andLlom amb ColFrit is cheap peasant food at itsheaviest, consisting of fried offalof the famous black Mallorcanpig, cooked in oil with potatoesand onions. You’ll find it at itssavoury best in some of themore traditional market towns ofEs Pla. Llom amb col, porkwrapped in cabbage, is equallytraditional and substantial.£TumbetThe vegetables that go tomake up this stew can varywidely, depending on theseason, but classically comprisea selection from among thefollowing: aubergine (eggplant),bell peppers, courgettes (zuc-chini), onions, cabbage andpotatoes. Seasoning consistsmainly of garlic.$SopasMallorquinasBy far the best ofMallorca’s sopas(soups) is fish soup,a hearty stew ofshellfish and whitefish in a broth fla-voured with garlicand saffron. It mayalso contain rice orpasta for added body.Other soups commonon the island are concoctionsof vegetables and mixed meats,often seasoned with garlic.%ArròsArròs (rice) dishes include:the familiar paella Valenciana,saffron rice with a mixture ofseafood, fish, chicken andsausage; arròs brut, rice withoffal; and arròs negre, rice withseafood cooked using squid ink.^Pork SausagesMallorca’s most prizedsausage, sobrassada, comes fromthe island’s famous small blackCheeses and sausages, Pollença marketSeafoodpaella
  • 72. For drinking and eating tips see p137Mallorca’sTop1079Top 10 Tapas Types!Pickled and CuredThe easiest finger-nibbles:olives (sometimes very salty),miniature pickles and possiblypearl onions. A cured favour-ite is salted cod.@MarinatedAll manner of seafood,including anchovies, sardinesand shellfish, steeped in palegreen olive oil.£SmokedYou’ll find sliced smokedham everywhere, along withthe local sausage, sobrasada.$With MayonnaiseA big favourite is patatasbravas, fried potato cubeswith mayonnaise and spicyred sauce. Another is aïoli, apungent, but delicious, mix ofgarlic and mayonnaise.%On BreadThe signature breadsnack is a crust of baguettewith olive oil and maybeother toppings (see pa amboli opposite).^Egg-BasedTruita espanyol is a potato,egg and onion pie, served bythe slice. Omelettes, possiblywith prawns, are also common.&FriedCalamari rings are mostpopular, but you’ll also seefish and chicken croquettes.*Grilled or RoastedFrom snails roasted withgarlic to grilled baby squid,octopus, aubergine, kebabsand sweet bell peppers.(Stewed or SteamedAs well as tumbet (seeopposite), steamed shellfish,broad green beans and arti-chokes shouldn’t be missed.)PâtéAnother signature islanddish is pork liver pâté.pigs. It’s tender, flavourful andtinged red from spices, andyou’ll find various versions of it,including a sobrassada pâté forspreading on toast.&Sea BassBaked in Rock SaltThe Mallorcan version of thisclassic is the pièce de résistancewherever it is served. The saltpack keeps the moisture andflavour safely inside, and when itis cracked open you find themost delicate, succulent fish,with just a hint of saltiness toadd piquancy.*EnsaïmadasThese unbelievably light andflaky spiral pastries are the prideof the island. They can be dustedwith icing sugar or filled withcandied fruits or jam.(Vi de la CasaMallorca is now enjoying adecided upswing in its wineproduction, and you can generallydepend on the house wines tobe very good. The reds areconsidered the island’s best atthe moment, being robust andaromatic, though some whitesattain a lively fruitiness.)CanyaCanya is the term to use ina bar when you want them topull you a draught beer; for alarge one ask for a jerra. Cervesa(beer) tends to be of the pilsnertype, though in Palma you canfind a local variety that is black,fizzy and bitter.Baked fish in rock salt
  • 73. 80Mallorca’sTop10Cafés and BarsLeftThe ubiquitous morning cup of coffee Centre Gran Café 1919 Right Mestizo sign!Abaco, PalmaMany can hardly believetheir eyes when they first findthis gorgeous place, set in thecourtyard of a period townhouse.Candlelit, full of fresh flowersand fruit, and with thedelightful touch oftropical birds in themagical garden, it issurely the best placein the world to have adrink (see p92).Outside of town, thesame people runAbacanto, wherethey’ve done thesame thing to anentire mansion.d www.abacanto.es@Grand CaféCappuccino, PalmaAn elegant 18th-century palaceset around a palm-filled patiohouses this charming café. Thedining areas have been smartlyrefurbished but do not have theappeal of the romantic courtyardwith its pretty stone fountain.Drinks, snacks and full mealsare served here. There arethree branches of the GrandCafé Cappuccino in Palma andone in Calvià to the west ofPalma. d Palma: C/Sant Miguel, 53;971 719764 • Paseo de Mar, 18; 971681368 • Paseo Marítmo, 1 (Avda. GabrielRoca); 971 282162 • Calvia: PuertoPortals, 1; 971 677293#Garito Café, PalmaA long-established artycafé, the Garito was revampeda few years ago to becomeone of Palma’s top night spots.Stylish retro decor, excellentmusic and a breezy terrace. Itis mellow by day but heats upat night. d Darsenade Can Barbera s/n• 971 736912 • www.garitocafe.com$Es Grau,CarreteraAndratx-EstellencsThis roadside café islocated right next tothe Mirador RicardoRoca (see p48), andshares the same greatviews of the entirecoast. You can getdrinks, snacks or acomplete fill-up here before youhit the road again. Don’t missbrowsing through the unusualgift shop on the site – amid allthe tourist junk that has little todo with Mallorca, you’ll findsome pretty pottery.Grand Café CappuccinoAbaco
  • 74. For more popular cafés and bars in Palma see p92,and pp99, 101, 107, 109, 117, 119 & 124 for the rest of MallorcaMallorca’sTop1081%Mónaco, Port de SóllerThe ultimate café, right onPort de Sóller’s sandy beach, hasfriendly service and the quaintSóller tram (see p68) running byat regular intervals. It’s a perfectplace to while away a few hours,with your feet firmly planted inthe sand, a drink in hand andeyes on the horizon (see p99).^Gran Café 1919,Port de PollençaAn ideal corner location on an ele-gant promenade has been claimedby this old-fashioned café (similarto one in Port d’Alcúdia, see p107).The staff are done up in blackties, and the décor evokes BelleÉpoque style with a frothy dashof Catalan Modernista. d Map E1• Anglada Camarassa & Passeig Voramar&Mestizo,Port d’AlcúdiaResembling something youmight find in the AmericanSouthwest, with warm adobecolours and desert decor, thisplace is just a block off the beachand popular for cocktails, coffeeand cakes. Internet access isalso available. d Map F2 • C/Coral*Sa Pedra, PortocristoHead here if you want togaze out on Portocristo’s inletand picturesque palisades whilelingering over a drink or fancy icecream and soakingup the laid-backatmosphere of thetown. It’s also an ideallistening post for themusical entertainmentat the nearby park(see p117).(Café Sa Plaça,SantanyíThe whole town ofSantanyí is architec-turally interesting, especially thecentral square, and this is theideal spot from which to take itin. The town is surprisinglysophisticated, due to the hugeinflux of international residents,the majority of whom havebrought a lot of money withthem. Still, local customs andatmosphere have not been lost,and this café offers a nice mix ofcontemporary pizzazz and ruralrelaxation (see p117).)Es Cadafal, SineuThis local café is steeped intradition Just sitting here for afew minutes will send you into atimeless state of rural, rustic lifethat can melt away the mostfrenetic habits. It’s also a perfectplace, in the shadow of theancient church portal, to try atime-honoured orxata, a sweet,creamy soft drink made fromtiger nuts (see p124).Café Sa PlaçaEs Grau roadside café by the Mirador Ricardo Roca viewpoint
  • 75. 82Mallorca’sTop10Left Traffic Centre Miramar Right Read’sRestaurantsThis is a summary of the best restaurants across the island.For many more regional listings see pp93, 100, 108, 118 & 125!La Boveda, PalmaThe place to come for thevery best tapas in Palma. It’slocated near Sa Llotja, not far fromthe harbour, and the pleasant patioquickly fills up with satisfieddiners at both lunch and dinner.Wild mushrooms, artichokes andtender fried squid are definitelyworth asking for. d Passeig Sagrera,3, or C/ Boteria, 3, Palma • 971 720026 or971 714863 • €@Vent deTramuntana,Port d’AndratxOn a patio with palm, olive andoleander trees and enclosed byan old stone wall, this is ruralgourmet dining at its peak. Dishesmight include roasted duck withmango sauce, braised potatoslices and perfectly al dentegreen beans. d C/Can Perot, 9• Map A4 • 971 671756 • €€€£Ca’s Xorc, SóllerThis exquisite mountain eyriewas supermodel Claudia Schiffer’schoice for celebrating her 30thbirthday. The lush gardens, tropicalbirds, fountains, exotic Moroccantouches and bougainvillea-coveredpergola combine to makeit one of the island’smost beautiful spots. Trythe turbot sautéed withfresh ginger and the mar-inated wild strawberries.d Carretera de Deià, km 56.1Map C2 • 971 638280• www.casxorc.com• No dis acc • €€€€€$Bens d’Avall, Deià-SóllerThe spectacular terraceaffords one of the island’s greatestviews. Fresh fish is cooked in awood-burning oven, and everyingredient is carefully selectedfrom the best and the freshestMallorca has to offer. The freshpasta of herbs and summermushrooms with a light Mahoncheese and basil sauce istypically good (see p100).%Ca N’Antuna, FornalutxFeaturing a very small menuof typical Mallorcan cuisine, withofferings changing depending onthe season’s best, this unpreten-tious place is set in a precipitousvalley with magnificent mountainviews. Offerings might include aLa BovedaBens d’Avall
  • 76. For price categories see p93Mallorca’sTop1083Mallorcan gardensoup, batteredcalamari, rabbit,suckling pig andvarious omelettes.d C/ Arbona Colom 8• Map D2 • 971 633068• Closed Mon • €€^Traffic, AlaróDine on themain town square, inelegant dining rooms or in a lushback garden featuring one of thefew private lawns on the island.All is peace and tranquillity, andthe cuisine is tempting variationsof time-honoured recipes. Freshfish, often served with a sauceof prawns and mussels, is a forte.d Plaça de la Vila, 8 • Map D3 • 971 879117 • Closed Tue • www.canxim.com• Limited dis acc • €€€&L’Hermitage, OrientVery off the beaten track,but worth the trip for the soaringviews and some of Mallorca’sbest cuisine. The setting, in ele-gant medieval rooms and terracesnestled amid luxuriant copses, isalso unforgettable. Prepared by atop Swedish chef, dishes such asloin of lamb with dried apricotsand a crispy vegetable roll are amust. d Hotel l’Hermitage, Ctra. Alaró-Bunyola • Map D3 • 971 180303 • www.hermitage.hotel.com • €€€€€ • ClosedNov–Dec*La Fonda, PollençaThe wood-beamed medievalinterior features a nice mix ofcontemporary art and rusticantiques, or you can sit outsideon a breezy side street. Roastkid is a speciality, as well ascalçots (large leek-like vegetables)with salsa Romesco (red peppers,vinegar, oil, almonds and walnuts).d C/Antoni Maura 31 • Map E1 • 971534751 • Closed Mon • €€(Miramar,Port d’AlcúdiaNot far from theseafront and cen-trally located on thepromenade, thisexcellent choice isalmost always busybut the high-qualityprofessional servicenever suffers. Sea-food and fish are thehighlights; the fish soup with riceand lobster or the fried lobsterwith crispy bread are mouth-watering winners. d Passeig Marítim,2 • Map F2 • 971 545293 • €€€)Read’s, Santa Mariadel CamíArguably, this establishmentcontains the most perfect foodon the island, brought to you bysuperbly trained waiting staff inan exquisite dining room or ona terrace under the stars. ItsMichelin star is well-deserved, andchef Marc Fosh is a true masterof creative excellence – everybite is pure pleasure (see p125).L’HermitageRead’s interior
  • 77. AROUNDTHE ISLANDPalma86–93Southwest Coast94–101North Coast102–109Southeast Coast112–119Central Plain120–125MALLORCA’STOP10
  • 78. IN 1983, PALMA BECAME the capital of the newlycreated Autonomous Community of the BalearicIslands and transformed itself from a provincial towninto a metropolis. Today, it has over 300,000 inhabit-ants and captivates all visitors as it once captivatedJaume I, who, after conquering it in 1229 described itas the “loveliest town that I have everseen”. It is pleasant to stroll along theclean, attractive streets past renovatedhistoric buildings. The town and harbourare full of life, with bars and restaurantsbusy with locals and tourists alike.86PalmaLeft Forn desTeatre shop Centre Banys Àrabs Right Cafés outside Santa EulaliaAroundtheIsland–PalmaSights in PalmaFlower stall, La RamblaPrevious pages Deià1 Cathedral2 Palau de l’Almudaina3 Museu Diocesà4 Banys Àrabs5 Museu de Mallorca6 Basilica de Sant Francesc7 Plaça Weyler8 Ca’n Solleric and Passeig des Born9 Castell de Bellver0 Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró
  • 79. AroundtheIsland–Palma87!CathedralDominating the entire port,Palma Cathedral (known as SaSeu) is a glowing man-mademountain of sandstone. Thesecond largest Gothic cathedral inthe world, it is also the symbol ofthe city and the island’s mostvisited building (see pp8–9).d Map L4–5@Palau de l’AlmudainaHaving been a royal palacefor over 1,000 years, this buil-ding’s style speaks of its long,fractious history with an uneasyblending of Islamic and Gothicelements (see pp10–11). d Map L4£Museu DiocesàJust behind the cathedral,the 17th-century Palau Episcopalhouses a little diocese museum.On display are items fromvarious churches in Mallorca aswell as a selection of majolicatiles. Particularly noteworthy are:a picture of St George slayingthe dragon in front of Palma’scity gate, painted in 1468–70 byPere Nisart; Bishop Galiana’spanel depicting the life of St Paul(who is portrayed holding asword); the Gothic pulpit in aMudéjar (Spanish-Moorish) style;and the jaspersarcophagus ofJaume II, whichstood in thecathedral until 1904.The palace itself,which is builtaround a largecourtyard, adjoinsthe city walls.(See also p62).d C/ Mirador, 5• Map M5 • Apr–Oct:10am–1pm & 3–8pmMon–Fri, 10am–1:30pmSat & Sun • Adm$Banys ÀrabsThis 10th-century brick ham-mam (bath house) is one of thefew architectural reminders of aMoorish presence on Mallorca.A small horseshoe-arched cham-ber, with a dome supported byirregular columns and whatwould once have been under-floor heating, it has survived inits original form. This would havebeen the tepidarium, the luke-warm room; there would havealso been a hot room and a coldplunge. Apart from this, there’snot much to see, but the pleas-ant garden has tables and chairs.d C/Can Serra, 7 • Map M–N5 • 9:30am–8pm daily (to 7pm Dec–Mar) • AdmPalau de l’AlmudainaPalma Cathedral
  • 80. 88AroundtheIsland–PalmaThe Highest-End TourismAlthough cheap package tourismdominates much of Palma, plentyof upper-crust visitors make PalmaBay their summer destination.The choicest spot is Port Portals,where King Juan Carlos I andQueen Sofía often berth at theswishest yacht club of them all.Be aware that prices reflect theworld-class jetsetter status of thewell-heeled habitués.%Museu de MallorcaIt’s worth the en-trance fee just to see thebuilding, a 17th-centurypalace built on the founda-tions of one of Mallorca’searliest Arab houses. Themuseum contains somefascinating exhibits, provi-ding a quick overview ofMallorca from prehistoryto the 20th century. Thereare some powerful recrea-tions of Neolithic andBronze Age tombs and dwellings,and several treasures from Romantimes. Some gorgeous examplesof Modernista furniture are onthe top floor – in particular aconsole with a daringly asym-metrical design (see also p62).d C/de la Portella, 5 • Map M5 • 971717540 • 10am–7pm Tue–Sat, 10–2pmSun • Adm^Basilica de Sant FrancescDuring the Middle Ages, thiswas Palma’s most fashionablechurch, and to be buried herewas a major status symbol.Aristrocratic families competedwith each other by building evermore ostentatious sarcophagi inwhich to place their dead. Thedark interior contains many fineworks of art. Next to a 17th-century statue of the Madonna isthe carved figure of the famousmedieval mystic Ramon Llull,who is buried in thechurch. Standing in frontof the basilica is a statue ofJunipero Serra, a Franciscanmonk and native of Mallorca,who was sent to California in1768 and founded LosAngeles and San Francisco.(see also p58). d Plaça SantFrancesc • Map N4 • 971712695 • 9:30am–12:30pm &2:30–6pm daily, closed Sunafternoon • Adm&Plaça WeylerSeveral interesting examplesof Palma’s Modernista output arefound in this square. The GranHotel was Palma’s first luxuryhotel when it opened in 1903.Designed by Catalan architectLluis Domenech i Muntaner, itwas the building that began thecraze for Modernista in the cityand is now an excellent artgallery (free) with a permanentLeft PlaçaWeyler Right Grounds of the Fundació Pilar i Joan MiróStatue, Museu deMallorca
  • 81. AroundtheIsland–Palma89A Walk AroundOld PalmaMid-MorningThis circular walk takestwo to four hours and startsin Plaça Joan Carles I, justat the top of the Passeigdes Born. From here, walkeast on La Unió to PlaçaWeyler, where you can buypastries at the Forn desTeatre and see the exhibi-tions in the Gran Hotel.Climb the steps to theright of the Teatre Principaluntil you get to PlaçaMajor. In this beautifularcaded square, you’ll seestreet artists and performers,and you can stop for adrink in one of the cafés.Come out of the Plaçaalong Carrer Sant Miquel.Stop at the Museu d’ArtEspanyol Contemporani(see p90) and the charmingEsglésia de Sant Miquel.Now double back throughPlaça Major to view thefaçades of L’Aquila andCan Rei (p90). Go downCarrer Argenteria to visitthe Església de SantaEulàlia (p90), and thenCarrer Morey to take inCa N’Oleza (p90).Late MorningContinue on Carrer Mira-mar, past glorious PalacioCa Sa Galesa hotel (p140),to exit at the broad seawall,where you can look up atthe Cathedral (pp8–9).Visit the cathedral and thePalau de l’Almudaina(pp10–11), then go down tothe S’Hort del Rei gardens(p66). Finally, stroll up theBorn and have a snack atBar Bosch (p92) on thesquare where you started,or head to a restaurant for amore substantial lunch (p93).display of paintings by HermenAnglada-Camarasa and a majorvenue for temporary exhibitions.Across the street is the wonder-ful façade of the Forn des Teatrepastry shop next to the old-fashioned Bar Central (see p92).d Map M2*Ca’n Solleric andPasseig des BornA fine Italianate edifice, Ca’nSolleric was built for a family ofolive oil merchants in 1763 andconverted into a modern artgallery in 1995. It stands at thetop of the gracious Passeig desBorn, which was created in the19th century on a dried-up river-bed. This is Palma’s main promen-ade, similar to Barcelona’s famousRamblas and the venue of large-scale cultural events. Set amongits plane trees are flowerbedsand seats. d Map K–L3 • Ca’n Solleric10am–2pm & 5–9pm Tue–Sat, 10am–2pmSun • Free(Castell de BellverOne of Europe’s most re-markable, fairytale castles wasactually a prison for 700 yearsand now houses an excellentmuseum (see pp12–13). d Map R1)Fundació Pilar i Joan MiróThe prolific career of Catalanmaster Joan Miró in all its depthand variety: few artists have hadsuch a brilliant showcase built forthem (see pp14–15). d Map R2Castell de Bellver
  • 82. 90AroundtheIsland–PalmaFor more on Palma’s gardens see pp64–5Best of the RestLeft City walls, Parc de la Mar Centre Figure at Santa Eulalia Right Ancient olive tree, Plaça Cort!Parc de la MarThe park next to the cathedralis a popular spot, with a lake,cafés and open-air concerts (seealso p48 & 64). d Map K–P5@Ca N’OlezaThis aristocratic mansion hasone of the most elegant of thefamous Palma patios, with fabu-lous wrought-iron railings, a Gothicstairway and graceful balustrades.d C/Morey, 9 • Map M4£Templar GateA fortified gate marks the for-mer entrance to the 13th-centuryheadquarters of the KnightsTemplar, built when the wealthybrotherhood was in full power.The buildings are now privatelyowned. d C/Temple • Map P4$Can VivotPeep in on another of Palma’sgrand courtyards, with Corinthiancolumns and balustraded balcony.Its sumptuous library, filled withscientific instruments from theEnlightenment era, is sometimesopen. d C/Can Savellà, 2 • Map N4%Església de Santa EulaliaBuilt in the mid-1200s inGothic style, the church was com-pletely remodelled in the 19thcentury and contains one of themost bombastic altarpieces ofthem all (see also p58). d Map N4^Plaça CortWith its elegant façades, inclu-ding the town hall, and ancientolive tree, this is one of Palma’sloveliest squares. d Map M3&L’Aquila/Can ReiTwo striking examples ofPalma’s Modernista architecture.L’Aquila combines Catalan Moder-nista elements with Viennesetendencies, while Can Rei owesmuch to Antonio Gaudí. d Map N3*Museu d’Art Espanyol Con-temporani, Fundació MarchIncludes works by Picasso, Dalí,Miró and Juan Gris (see also p62).d C/ Sant Miguel, 11 • Map M2 • 10am–6:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–1:30pm Sat • Adm(Sa LlotjaThis handsome, 15th-centuryseafront building was the city’sExchange and is now a culturalcentre. d Plaça Llotja • Map K4 • 971711705 • Open during exhibitions • Free)Es Baluard, Museu d’ArtModern i ContemporaniIncludes art and sculptures byCézanne, Gauguin and Picasso.d Plaça Porta de Santa Catalina s/n • MapJ3 • 971 908200 • Jun–Sep: 10–12am;Oct–May: 10am–8pm Tue–Sun • Adm
  • 83. For the best general shopping areas in Palma see p70AroundtheIsland–Palma91ShopsLeft Zara Centre Loewe Right Imaginarium!ZaraHip, affordable clothing forthe entire family. Service is a bithit or miss, but you’ll find thelinen blends and light cottonsjust right for the island climate.Has scents and sunglasses, too.d Es Born, 25@PersepolisPalma’s premier antiquesshop has major works of religi-ous sculpture, Old Masterpaintings, important periodfurniture, oriental carpets andsmall silver and enamel pieces.d Avda. Jaume III, 23£LoeweUpmarket fashions fromMadrid: handbags, sunglasses,perfumes, vibrant scarves,leather and linen, silky suede,travel bags, and shoes, all in asetting that’s elegant withoutbeing snooty. d Avda. Jaume III, 1,Corner Jaume III & Born$ImaginariumGames, dolls, constructiontoys, books, furniture and beachthings for children under eight.d Pl. Weyler, 11%Casa BonetDating from 1860, thiswonderful shop is all abouttradition and refinement, sellingembroidered goods of all kinds.The traditional Mallorcan style ofwares that you find here simplycannot be imitated by machines.d Pl. Federico Chopin, 2^Colmado Santo DomingoEnter through a hangingforest of sausages! Every artisan-al foodstuff made on the island ishere, including sobrassada, figloaves, cheeses, brandies, wines,fruits, nuts, sauces and pickles.d C/S. Domingo, 1&Relojería AlemanaDesigner watches, finejewellery, silver tableware andalso Mallorcan grandfatherclocks. d C/Colón, 14; also Jaime III, 26*Fiol, LlibresSecondhand books in vari-ous languages, run by a lady whoknows her stock. d C/Oms, 45-A(Fet a MàPalma has many handicraftshops: this is about the best,with well-chosen pottery, glassand more from across Spain intraditional and contemporarydesigns. d C/Sant Miquel, 52)Horrach MoyáA commercial gallery show-casing contemporary, avant-gardeMallorcan artists. d C/Catalunya, 4
  • 84. 92AroundtheIsland–PalmaFor Palma’s top nightclubs see p72; for gay and lesbian venuessee pp76–7; for the best tapas (at La Boveda) see p82Cafés and BarsLeft Café des Casal Solleric Centre Café Lírico Right Bar Central!El PesqueroLocated directly on thewater. Have tapas with yourdrink, or be tempted by the setmenu of the day. Live music.d C/ Moll de la Llotja • 971 715220@AbacoPerhaps the world’s mostromantic setting for drinks: anancient courtyard and lush garden,with hundreds of fresh fruits,huge bouquets of fresh flowers,exotic birds twittering, soft candle-light and perfumed air (see alsop80). d C/ San Joan, 1 • 971 714939£Café LíricoRetro bar with photos of oldPalma, mirrors, marble and Mod-ernista touches. Fresh juicesinclude maracuya (passion fruit),mango, red papaya and guava.d Avda. Antonio Mauro, 6 • 971 721125$Café des Casal SollericHoused in a historic building,ideal for people-watching, thiswelcoming café plays hip musicand has a local feel. d Es Born, 27• 971 722092%Bar BoschPerpetually busy and themost central bar of all, it’s greatfor tapas and a drink any time ofday. d Plaça Rei Joan Carles I^Café Sa FontHip music and tons of atmos-phere in a wonderful dive locatedby an ancient font. d C/ de S’Aigua, 5• 971 713869&L@RedCyber CaféA bank of computers, withcutting-edge music and cosmicartworks in the background. Illycoffee, juices, milkshakes andsandwiches are available.d Concepció, 5 • www.laredcafe.com*Bar CentralTapas, bocadillos (sandwiches)and pastries in a classic, slightlyfly-blown place. d Plaça Weyler, 10• 971 721058(Ca’n Joan de S’aigoSince 1700, this popularrococo delight has been servingchocolate, orjata (almond milk),ice cream and pastries. Expectto wait a bit. d C/de C’an Sanç, 10;C/del Baró de Santa Maria del Sepulcre)Nicke’s SvenskBar & CaféA full line-up of drinks, nachos,some unusual Swedish-influenced dishes and bakedpotatoes with various toppings.Closing time is when the lastcustomer leaves. d C/de Bellver, 4,just off Pl. Gomila • Mon–Sat
  • 85. Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants have disabledaccess, accept credit cards and include vegetarian dishesAroundtheIsland–Palma93Price CategoriesFor a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.Places to EatLeft AsadorTierra Aranda Right Celler Sa Premsa!Caballito del MarOne of Palma’s top places.Delicious cuisine, from mangosoup to marinated salmon carpac-cio. d Passeig Sagrera, 5 • 971 721074• Tue–Sun • Limited dis acc • €€€€@CandelaSet on Palma’s lively “restau-rant row”. Try the lemon risottowith gambes (prawns) or therack of lamb with artichokes.d C/Apuntadors, 14 • 971 724428• Thu–Tue • No dis acc • €€£AramisThe focus is creative andoriginal Mediterranean cuisine,with a weekly tasting menu fordedicated foodies. d C/Montenegro,1 • 971 725232 • Tue–Sat • €€€$Bon LlocA fusion of the Mediterraneanand Asia at Palma’s best vegetarianrestaurant. d C/Sant Feliu, 7 • 971718617 • Tue–Sat • Limited dis acc • €€%RossiniThe owner is from Puglia inItaly, so the mozzarella di buffalais juicy and tangy, and the pastais nicely al dente. d C/Pi, 4 • 971720235 • Mon–Sat • €€€€^El PilónFriendly, atmospheric placewith hip music and a lobster tank.An extensive menu includes friedartichokes, fresh oysters and tum-bet (vegetable stew). d RestauranteMarisquería, c/Cifre, 4 • 971 726034 •Mon–Sat • No dis acc • Parking • €€€&AsadorTierra ArandaService is carried out withpanache in a stone-paved gardenwith marquees, in which you’llenjoy a dinner of Castilian cooking.Lunch is served indoors, in statelyrooms. d Concepció, 4 • 971 714256• Tue–Sat, Sun lunch • No dis acc • €€€*C’an CarlosMallorcan cooking at its verybest, with wonderful bread andolives, seafood, fish, lamb, pâtéand delicious house wines.d C/ de S’Aigua 5 • 971 713869 • Mon–Sat• Few vegetarian dishes • No dis acc • €€(Celler Sa PremsaSet your sights on classicslike cabbage rolls with pork, andpaella. d Plaça Bisbe Berenguer dePalou, 8 • 971 723529 • Mon–Sat (Mon–Friin Jul & Aug) • Limited dis acc • €)Koldo RoyoThe Basque chef will keepappearing at your table. Don’tworry: with a Michelin star, thefood is extraordinary, whether it’sa strawberry gazpacho or crablasagne. d Avda. Gabriel Roca, 3 • 971732435 • Mon–Sat • No dis acc • €€€€€ under €20€€ €20–€30€€€ €30–€40€€€€ €40–€50€€€€€ over €50
  • 86. 94Southwest CoastLeft Café, Es Port Centre Sa Granja Right Gazebo, Son MarroigAroundtheIsland–SouthwestCoastIF, AS SOME SAY, the island’s shape suggests abilly-goat facing west, the southwestern coastlinemakes up his long face while he sniffs the flowerpetal of Illa Dragonera. In winter, the mountainsof this region act as a buffer, shielding the centralplain from the fiercetramuntana wind andabsorbing most of theisland’s rain and snow; insummer, they provide acool retreat, mostly for well-heeled residents andvisitors, from the heat ofPalma and the south.Sights1 Sa Granja2 Raixa3 Valldemossa4 Jardins d’Alfàbia5 Son Marroig6 Deià7 Sóller8 Port de Sóller9 Fornalutx0 Castell d’AlaróImage of SantaCatalina,Valldemossa
  • 87. For more on the public gardens of the Southwest Coast see pp64–5AroundtheIsland–SouthwestCoast95!Sa GranjaExperience a complete cross-section of traditional Mallorcanlife at this fully restored, noblecountry estate (see pp16–17).d Map B3@RaixaIn the 18th century, Mallorcancountry homes became a symbolof prestige, and this one, built byCardinal Antonio Despuig, is oneof the finest examples. TheCardinal was an antiquarian andso adorned his Italianate estatewith Classical statuary to comple-ment the grand Neoclassicalstaircase. The parterres arebeautifully laid out in the Italiantaste of the day, with not onlyClassical touches such as foun-tains and a belvedere, but alsopicturesque medieval references.d Map C3 • Turnoff 5 km (3 miles) southof Alfàbia, on the Palma road, C711• 11am–7pm Wed–Sun • Adm£ValldemossaIt was in Valldemossa, Mallor-ca’s highest and one of its pretti-est towns, that lovers FrédéricChopin and George Sand spentone dramatic winter in the early19th century. The result wasSand’s infamous book A Winterin Majorca, both a scathing indict-ment of the island’s people andtheir ways and a poetic rhapsodyin praise of the natural beautiesof the place (see pp18–21 & alsop65 for the museum). d Map C3$Jardinsd’AlfàbiaThis oasis of heav-enly peace high inthe mountains wasdesigned by Arablandscape architects1,000 years ago asan image of Paradise.The gardens havebeen reworked over the centuries,mostly with Gothic and ItalianRenaissance touches, but themedley of fountains, terracesand groves is still essentiallyArabic (see pp24–5). d Map C3%Son MarroigPerched high above the sea,with its famous Neoclassicalgazebo imported from Italy, thisL-shaped mansion was fashionedby Archduke Salvador (see pp20& 64). Much admired in Mallorca,the archduke is remembered herewith a museum devoted to hislife and collections. In the gardens,you can sit in the white Carraramarble rotunda and gaze at theNa Foradada (“pierced rock”)Peninsula, jutting out to sea witha gaping 18-m (59-ft) hole at itscentre. d Map C2 • C710, south of Deià• 9:30–2pm & 3–5pm Mon–Sat • AdmValldemossaJardins d’Alfàbia
  • 88. 96AroundtheIsland–SouthwestCoastThe French ConnectionBefore the Sóller Tunnel openedin 1997, the mountain-ringed SóllerValley was almost cut off fromthe rest of the island. Thus, thenortherly reaches of the islandcarried out more commerce withFrance than with Palma. In the19th century, Sóller enjoyed abrisk orange trade with France,and has never lost its specialrelationship with the French.^DeiàSet in a dramatic ravine thatplunges down to the sea, Deià ismostly associated with theEnglish novelist and poet RobertGraves. Settling in the smalltown in 1929, Graves lived andworked here for the next 56 years,making the place popular withother artists including Picassoand the writer Anaïs Nin. Tower-ing over the town is the modest18th-century church of Sant JoanBaptista. The adjacent buildinghouses the parish museum; thereis also a museum founded by theAmerican archaeologist WilliamWaldren, displaying the prehistoryof Mallorca. Hotel La Residenciahas attracted many famousguests including Princess Dianaand Sir Bob Geldof. d Map C2&SóllerThe town’s name reputedlyderives from the Arabic suliar –“golden bowl” – the valley isfamous for its orange groves.Notable buildings include theLeft Deià Right SóllerPort de SóllerModernista Banco de Sóller andthe Neo-Gothic church of SantBartomeu, both the work of adisciple of Antoni Gaudí. Fewvisitors do more than sit in PlaçaConstitució soaking up theatmosphere and sampling tapas,pastries, ice cream and freshorange juice. The town’s vintageelectric train provides a superbride through the mountains toPalma. d Map C2*Port de SóllerThis small resort, set aroundan excellent natural harbour, hasvibrant festivals (see p52) andthe only beach of any size alongthe northwestern coast. An atmos-phere of low-key chic and familyfun prevails. It’s the starting pointfor boat trips along the coast anda good base for walks – a shortclimb brings you to the Cap Groslighthouse with its panoramicviews (see also p40). d Map C2
  • 89. AroundtheIsland–SouthwestCoast97A Tour of DramaticPromontoriesMorningThis drive takes a full day,setting out at 10am or so.Start at Andratx (see p98)and take the coast road,C710, north. At the pointwhere the road encountersthe coastline, you will findthe Mirador de Ricardo Rocaviewpoint and the Es Graucafé (see p80). At Estellencs(p98), you can also stop forshopping and refreshment.As the road leaves thetown and climbs, there’s astopping point to the leftwhere you can look backat the view. Next stop isthe magnificent Miradorde ses Ànimes (p98).At Banyalbufar (p98), notethe remarkable terracedhillsides. A little way on,you’ll see signs for SaGranja (pp16–17). Headthere for lunch and a goodlook around the mansionand grounds.AfternoonAfter lunch, there’s morehistoric sightseeing atValldemossa (pp18–21),where you can check outthe former monastery,museum and old town.Carrying on north, popinto Son Marroig (p95)and then wind around intofantastic Deià, where youcan stop for a stroll.Continuing on, don’t blinkor you’ll miss Mallorca’ssmallest village, Lluc-Alcari; and finally, head forthe main square in Sóller,to have a drink at one ofthe cafés, then take thequaint tram down to thePort de Sóller for dinnerand the rich nightlife.(FornalutxThis quaint stone village issupremely situated, enjoying asplendid view of towering PuigMajor (see p106) – Mallorca’shighest peak – and of the vastravine that sweeps down intothe valley of orange groves.Silence reigns, except for thelazy sound of goat and sheepbells. The town seems to clutchat its essentially perpendicularsetting, with accommodation anddining options making the mostof the panorama. You can gethere by car, but a better choice isthe fragrant hike up from Sóller,passing through the even tinierBiniaraix (see p98). d Map D2)Castell d’AlaróThe original castle was builta thousand years ago by theMoors and then refurbishedfollowing the “reconquest” byJaume I in the 13th century. It’slittle more than rubble now, butthe lofty position certainly seemsunconquerable enough. At thebottom of the trail is an excellentrestaurant; from here you canfollow well-beaten paths and dry-stone tracks along the cliff-face(see also pp54 & 56). d Map D3Fornalutx
  • 90. 98AroundtheIsland–SouthwestCoastBest of the RestLeft Mirador de ses Ànimes Centre Biniaraix Right Orient!Port d’AndratxOne of Mallorca’s classiestresorts (see p40). d Map A4@AndratxSurrounded by orange andalmond trees, which blossom inFebruary, Andratx is a sleepy placethat only becomes animated onmarket day (Wednesday). d Map B4£Illa DragoneraA narrow, rocky island lyingat an angle to the coast nearSant Elm. It has been a naturereserve since 1988 and is hometo a wide variety of wild flowersand birdlife, including cormorants,Cory’s shearwater and the world’slargest colony of Eleonora’sfalcon. According to legend, theIsland is visited nightly by dragons.However, its name has more todo with the shape than itspopularity with mythical beasts.A rocky path runs between itstwo headlands, both marked bylighthouses. Ferries from SantElm operate in summer, allowingvisitors to disembark on theisland and explore it for severalhours. d Map A4$PuigpunyentLying in the shadow of Puigde Galatzó, this pretty mountainvillage is the base for visiting LaReserva nature park. d Map B3%EstellencsTiny, picturesque mountaintown with some restaurants andshops. There’s also a rudimentaryseaside area around a shinglybeach, where the snorkelling isgood (see p50). d Map B3^Mirador de ses ÀnimesThe best mirador (viewpoint)on the entire coast is crownedby the Torre Verger (see p56),which you can climb, just aswatchmen did for centuries, keep-ing a fearful eye out for Saracensand other pirates. d Map B3&BanyalbufarBuilt by the Moors using dry-stone walls, the town’s terracesspeak of human ingenuity tocreate superb farmland out ofinhospitable cliffs. There are afew nice hotels, cafés,restaurants, artisan shops and asmall, shingly beach. d Map B3*BiniaraixA smaller sibling to Fornalutx(see p97), this adorable villageclings to the hill above the Barrancde Biniaraix gorge. d Map C2(BunyolaA charming place in the foot-hills of the Serra de Tramuntana.Inside its church is a much-cherished 14th-century image ofthe Virgin in alabaster. d Map C3)OrientThose who make the hair-raising road journey from Bunyolato this hamlet at the foot of Puigd’Alfàbia can have a choice of walksincluding one to Castell d’Alaró(see pp49, 50 & 56). d Map D3
  • 91. AroundtheIsland–SouthwestCoast99Cafés and ShopsLeft Bar Bellavista, Port d’Andratx Right Ceramiques Estellencs!Mónaco, Port de SóllerHave a drink, snack or fullmeal while wriggling your toes inthe sand at this popular spot withthose in the know. Great seafooddishes are served with deliciouswholewheat bread (see also p81).d Plaça Sa Torre, 7 • 971 631025@BarVicente – Los Rufianes,Port de SóllerA wonderful place whereSpanish flamenco music stirs theair. Order sangria, fresh orangejuice or pa amb oli (see p78) invarious guises, then sit back andenjoy the view. d Carri dés Far, 8£Blue Willi’s, Port de SóllerShop here to kit yourself outwith nautical-preppy chic that’seasy to wear and launder.d Av. Es Traves, 21 • 971 633919• www.bluewillis.com$Jardinería Pedro, SóllerRow after row of terracottaand painted pottery of all kinds –jars, pots, planters, dishes, bowls,decorative masks and all sorts ofhanging containers. It’s a wildlycolourful place and fun just toroam. d Carretera Vieja del Puerto, 2%Bar Bellavista, Portd’AndratxA great place to stop for Irishcoffee, iced coffee and even icedchocolate. Sit on the waterfrontat one of the best locations onthe main drag of the port forpeople-watching, day or night.d Avda. Mateu Bosch, 31 • 971 671625^Marianisa, Port d’AndratxA shop selling fishermen’sshirts, swimwear, underwear andaccessories. d Plaza AlmiranteOquendo, 7 • 971 671680&Bar Cubano, AndratxThis is where the localshang out. Inside, you’ll find theTV blaring, the usual gamblingmachines and Mallorcan pottery.d Plaça Pou, 1 • 971 136367*Ca’n Nadal, AndratxFounded in 1872, this pastryshop offers such delights asmantecados (shortbread), crema-dillo de cabello (sugar-coatedmille feuille), pastel de chocolate(iced chocolate cake with walnuts)or tortaletta rechesol y frutossecos (moist tart topped withnuts). Also buy a bag of quelitas(tiny, egg-shaped crackers).d C/Juan Carlos I, 7 • 971 136120(Ceramiques Estellencs,EstellencsArtisan shop with pottery of allsorts, and also embroidery (puntmallorquin), glassware, cards,lithographs, jewellery, preserves,wine, olives, oil and authenticrobes de llengües (tongue offlame cloth). d Plaça Constitució, 4)Brodats Mallorquins,BanyalbufarLocal handmade embroidereditems are the speciality, such astablecloths, baby booties,crocheted doilies and T-shirts.d C/Baronia, 2 • 971 618236
  • 92. 100AroundtheIsland–SouthwestCoast€ under €20€€ €20–€30€€€ €30–€40€€€€ €40–€50€€€€€ over €50Price CategoriesFor a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.Places to Eat^Es Port, Port deValldemossaGet set for seafood salads, agarlicky fish soup, paella, tumbet(Mallorcan ratatouille), chicken,pork and their specialities –scorpion fish and bream. Beach-front restaurant with sea andcliff views. d Map C3 • 971 616194• No dis acc • €€€&Bens d’Avall, Port de SóllerPopular restaurant with spec-tacular views of the mountainsand sea, and memorable, creativeMediterranean and nouvellecuisine. The melon soup, tunacarpaccio and seafood cannelloniare all wonderful (see also p82).d Carreterra Sóller Deià s/n • Map C2• 971 632381 • Apr–Nov • €€€€€*CanToni Moreno, Portdes CanongeA classic seafood restaurantserving some of the best paellason the island. Save room fordelicious home-cooked desserts.d Map B3 • €€€(Randemar, Port de SóllerItalian and Mallorcan cuisineserved by the sea. The zabaglioneis to die for. d C/Es Través, 16 • MapC2 • 971 634578 • €€)Ca’n Antuna, FornalutxTasty Mallorcan food, includ-ing rabbit, with stunning viewsfrom the terrace. The paella is alsorecommended. d C/Arbona Colon, 7• Map D2 • 971 633068 • 12:30–4pm &7:30–11pm Tue–Sun • No dis acc • €!La GranTortuga, PegueraFeatures a huge deck over theport. The menu includes salmonwith curry sauce, grilled squid inits own ink, fillet of veal with clams,crêpes and pear sorbet. d AldeaCala Fornells, 1 • Map B4 • 971 686023• Closed Mon • No dis acc • €€@Miramar, Port d’AndratxThe King dines at thiscentrally located, upmarket placethat’s noted for its seafood andfish baked in salt. d Avda. MateoBosch, 22 • Map A4 • 971 671617 • €€€£Rocamar, Port d’AndratxSucculent marinated salmonor the local fish baked in salt, withlemon tart for dessert, are speci-alities here. The views are fantas-tic, too. d Almirante Riera Alemany, 27• Map A4 • 971 671261 • €€€$Restaurant Villa Italia,Port d’AndratxDelicious Italian dishes, such asravioli with porcini mushroomsand panna cotta, and seafooddishes with champagne sauce.The ambience is elegant, andservice multilingual. Club Royal isthe smartest of its three branches.d Camino de San Carlos, 13 • Map A4• 971 674011 • No dis acc • €€€€€%El Gria, Port de SóllerDine on tasty Mallorcan homecooking at this delightful restau-rant. Try the stuffed artichokes andfor dessert the gato de almendras(almond tart). d C/Castanyer, 2 • MapC2 • 971 630227 • €€Left Rocamar, Port d’Andratx Right RestaurantVilla ItaliaNote: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants have disabledaccess, accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
  • 93. AroundtheIsland–SouthwestCoast101Popular with arty locals as wellas tourists. d Plaça de la Constitució• 971 630004^Discoteca Altamar,Port de SóllerA large, loud disco for teens andthose in their early 20s. Specialfiestas include foam parties andtropical nights. d Corner Es Travésand c/Antonio Montis • 971 631205• 10pm–6am daily to end Sep&Es Canto, Port de SóllerA bit off the beaten path,and mostly for a younger crowd.The music focuses on the latesthits. d C/ JaimeTorrens, 17 • 10:30pm–late*Bar Albatross,Port de SóllerFull of fishermen exchangingtales in animated Mallorquin. Askfor una canya (a beer on tap).d C/ Marina, 48 • 8pm–1am(Café Prop del Mar,Port de SóllerThe hippest place in town for allages, with stylish rattan, Tikitorches, pool table, pinball anddarts. Cool, jazzy music and rumdrinks a speciality. d Camino delFaro, 2, Platja d’en Repic • 971 634808)Bar Deportivo, FornalutxThe main square in town isfull of seating for several bars.This one is on the corner; othersinclude Café Sa Plaça and CaféCa’n Benets. Locals and foreignvisitors mingle till the earlyhours. d C/La Plaça, 1!Gran CasinoMallorca, CalviàMallorca’s casino offers glitzybars and clubby salons fora drink between bets (see alsop72). d Urb. Sol de Mallorca, end ofAndratx motorway (Cala Figuera detour),Calvià • 971 454508@Barracuda, Portd’AndratxRevellers of different agescome for the mix of soul, house,hiphop and Spanish music. Wed-nesday night is Club 21, mostlyfor German 20-somethings;Thursday is House Party, withguest DJs from Ibiza; Friday isGay Night; Sunday is FlowerPower, with music from the1960s and 1970s (see also p73).d Centro Commercial Las Velas, local 11• 971 673606 • Best from 1am–7am£Garito Café, PalmaWhen the café opened in the70s it held art exhibitions for localartists. In 1998, under new owner-ship, the bar was turned into acafé-club where dance rythmsplay well into the night. (see p80).$Bar Claridge, Port de SóllerA little bit of Britain. You’ll finda friendly atmosphere, the usualbeers, pub grub, ploughman’slunch and full English breakfasts.d Carrer Través, 48 • www.claridgebar.com • 10am–late%Bar Espanya, SóllerA fashionable spot onSóller’s lovely central square.Nightclubs and BarsLeft Port d’Andratx Right Bar Deportivo, Fornalutx main squareFor more good places to eat on the Southwest Coast see p82;Many nightclubs and bars are open only during the summer
  • 94. 102North CoastLeft Statue, Lluc Centre City gate, Alcúdia Right Ruin, Penìnsula de FormentorAroundtheIsland–NorthCoastAS DIFFERENT EUROPEAN NATIONALITIES have laid holidayclaim to various parts of the island, this northernmost cornerhas developed a certain English-Scottish-Irish character. (That’s notto say you won’t encounter German, French, Scandinavian, Dutchand Italian visitors, too.) It’s a mountainous area, and where thosejagged cliffs meet the sea you’ll find some of Mallorca’s loveliestcoves and bays. Add ancient sites andflamboyant festivals to the mix, andits obvious why many people takepleasure in exploring this region.Sights1 Gorg Blau2 Cala Tuent3 Monestir de NostraSenyora de Lluc4 Pollença5 Ermita de NostraSenyora del Puig6 Cala Sant Vicenç7 Port de Pollença8 Penìnsula deFormentor9 Alcúdia andPort d’Alcúdia0 Parc Natural deS’AlbuferaStatue,AlcúdiaReservoir, Gorg Blau
  • 95. AroundtheIsland–NorthCoast103!Gorg BlauHeading out of Sóller, on theway to Lluc, the C710 is perhapsthe most dramatic drive of all,traversing tunnels and gorges onits way between Puig Major andPuig Massanella. This beautifulbut bleak ravine has been knownsince ancient times, as evidencedby the Talayot pillar that has beenleft as a silent sentinel. Severalreservoirs have been creatednearby (see also p36). d Map D2@CalaTuentA side turn off the road toSa Calobra leads its winding waydown to Cala Tuent, a small covewith a beach and a 13th-centurychurch, Ermita de Sant Llorenç.Cala Tuent is probably thequietest beach on the northerncoast, and there’s a nice café-restaurant on the far side of thecove. Swimming here is safe aslong as you don’t venture out toofar (see also p42). d Map D2£Monestir de NostraSenyora de LlucSince time immemorial, longbefore the existence of Chris-tianity, this spot has beenMallorca’s holiest pilgrimagepoint. The heady mountain airand the presence of manygroves of oak trees, consideredsacred in Neolithic and ancientcultures, combine tocreate a peaceful,inviting atmospherefor believers andnon-believers alike.You can stay in themonastery’s com-fortable rooms, andexplore the ancientmysteries of thesurrounding area(see also pp26–7).d Map D2$PollençaFounded by the Romans inthe foothills of the Serra deTramuntana, Pollença still hasmuch of its old-world charm withnarrow, twisting streets, somegood restaurants and a livelySunday market. There’s a greatmunicipal museum, too (seep63), while the pride of the townis the beautiful Way of theCross, leading to a chapel thathouses a Gothic statue of Christ.Climbing the seemingly endlessset of steps (365 in all), you passthe Stations of the Cross. Thestatue is carried around town onGood Friday, in a movingtorchlight procession. d Map E1Monestir de Nostra Senyora de LlucCalvari staircase, Pollença
  • 96. 104AroundtheIsland–NorthCoastMallorca’s HeightsThe Serra de Tramuntana runs for88 km (55 miles) from Andratx toPollença. Its highest peaks,between Sóller and Lluc, are PuigMajor (1,447 m/4,747 ft) and PuigMassanella (1,367 m/ 4,485 ft).Explore the mountains on foot ifyou can, so as to smell wild rose-mary, listen to sheep bells, breathein pure air and marvel at pinetrees growing out of red rocks.%Ermita de NostraSenyora del PuigAs with all of Mallorca’s religiousretreats, it’s the serenity of age-less isolation that rewards. Thoughlocated only a one-hour walk fromatmospheric Pollença, it feels likeyou’re a world away from modernlife, on this modest bump of a hill,barely 300 m (984 ft) high. Overthe centuries, the typically tawny-hued stone complex has beenhome to both nuns and monks,but now, although still Churchproperty, only overnight guestsuse the cubicles (see p146). Awell-laid dry-stone path leads theway, the air redolent with wildherbs and the pungent smell ofrural life, the arid land-scape broken up witholive, carob and fig trees,and dashes of oleanderand wildflowers (see alsop60). d Map E2^Cala Sant VicençThe resort has poss-ibly the clearest, mostbeautiful blue waters ofany truly sandy beach onthe island yet is rarelyovercrowded. There areactually three calas (coves)– Cala Sant Vicenç, CalaBarques and Cala Molins– separated by rockyoutcroppings. CalaMolins is accessed downa steep hill from themain part of the resortand has the most laid-backcharacter, as well as a broaderbeach than the others (see alsop42). d Map E1&Port de PollençaThe port is a major resort(see p41), with beautiful restau-rants, unique shops, a lovelypedestrian-only zone right alongthe water and loads of nightlife.It is a favourite with familiesyear-round, while older visitorsflock in winter. A large commu-nity of foreign residents, mostlyretired British, have made it theirpermanent home. d Map E1Península de FormentorCala SantVicenç
  • 97. AroundtheIsland–NorthCoast105A Stroll AroundHistoric PollençaMid-MorningBeginning at about 10amon any day but Monday,this walk around Pollença(see p103) should takethree to four hours.Start on the southern sideof town, with a visit to theMuseu Municipal dePollença (p63) and thebeautiful building that hou-ses it – the convent, churchand cloister of Sant Domin-go, now entirely given overto civic cultural purposes.(It is closed on Mondays.)Walk north a couple ofblocks and pop into AntikI Art (p107), a wonderfulantiques shop. From here,continue up to the PlaçaMayor and admire theModernista architecture ofthe Hotel Juma and themarvellous rose windowtracery of the NostraSenyora dels Àngelsparish church (see p58).Early AfternoonNow walk up the left sideof the church until you getto Aquamarine (p107)with its unusual handcraf-ted jewellery, and thenstop off at the Café delCalvari (p107) for refresh-ment before striding upthe famous cypress-linedCalvari steps.Finally, head down LesCreus and Gruat streets tothe picturesque Pont Romà,a bridge thought by someto be from ancient Romantimes, but probably datingfrom the Middle Ages.After your tour, have lunchat either the interestingLa Tetera (p108) or thefamous La Fonda (p83).*Penín-sula deFormentorMallorca’swildest partis full of vividvistas andprecipitousplunges,where drivingor hiking areexhilaratingand unforgettable experiences.It is also home to Mallorca’smost venerable hotel, wheremovie stars have hobnobbed,and where crowned heads anddiplomats have decided the fateof nations (see pp28–9). d Map F1(Alcúdia and Port d’AlcúdiaThis two-part municipalityconsists of Mallorca’s moststriking medieval town (seepp30–31) uneasily conjoined withone of its brashest tourist ports(see p41). The area around thefishing harbour is the mostattractive, with the broad promen-ade of Passeig Maritim facing arow of fish restaurants. d Map F2)Parc Natural de S’AlbuferaThe wetland south of Portd’Alcúdia was once a swamp,most of which was drained in the1860s. The remaining marshes,overgrown with reeds, can beexplored via marked trails. Amajor conservation project, thisis an excellent place for bird-watching (see also p37). d Map F2Church, AlcúdiaParc Natural de S’Albufera
  • 98. 106AroundtheIsland–NorthCoastBest of the RestLeft Sa Calobra Centre Coves de Campanet Right Santuari de laVictòria!Puig MajorJutting skyward like a stonycrown, this majestic mountain isflanked on one side by the SóllerValley, with its picturesquevillages, and on the other by Llucand the tranquil valley of Aubarca(see also box on p104). d Map D2@Mirador de Ses BarquesLocated at the top of theroad that leads down to SaCalobra (entry 3), this marvellousviewpoint overlooks the skein ofroad loops and, beyond all of therocky outcroppings, the sea.Stop for refreshment at therestaurant here. d Map D2£Sa CalobraA rapturously beautiful bay,which explains why the touristbuses pour in by the dozen everyday. The journey via the steep,winding road is also memorable(see p49). An easier approach isby boat from Port de Sóller, passingisolated bays and with greatviews of Puig Major. d Map D2$Torrent de PareisWalk through a tunnel fromSa Calobra to reach the Torrentde Pareis, which begins in themountains at the confluence ofthe torrents of Lluc and Gorg.This canyon is the second largestin the Mediterranean, and thepoint at which it exits into thesea is spectacular. However,hiking in the canyon can bedangerous, especially after rain(see also p36). d Map D2%Castell del ReiA popular walk leads to thisremote, abandoned mountaincastle north of Pollença (see alsopp54 & 56). d Map E1 • Sat only^Mirador de Mal PasThis viewpoint is the firststop on a tour of the Penínsulade Formentor (see p28). d Map F1&Hotel FormentorArgentine visionary AdánDiehl’s contribution to high-endisland tourism has had its upsand downs but is currently ridinghigh again (see p29). d Map F1*Santuari (Ermita)de la VictòriaBuilt in 1678, the church is asmuch fortress as spiritual centredue to pirate raids in that era. Ithouses a revered icon and a vib-rant Baroque altarpiece. d Map F1(Cap des PinarMuch of the cape is a restrict-ed military zone, but you can takein the view from the terrace of theMirador del Victòria, walk to theruins of the Talaia d’Alcúdia orclimb Penya Roja. d Map F1)Coves de CampanetA cave complex with a crystal-clear lake and the thinnest stalac-tite on record, 5 mm (1/5 in) thick.The tour lasts about 45 minutes andis less crowded than other cavetours. d C713, 16 km (10 miles) SW ofAlcúdia • Map E2 • 971 516130 • Apr–Sep:10am–7pm; Oct–Mar: 10am–6pm • Adm
  • 99. AroundtheIsland–NorthCoast107Cafés and ShopsLeft Gran Café 1919 Centre GaleriesVincenç Right Arrels!Café del Calvari, PollençaLight snacks, such as tapas,pa amb oli (see p78), gazpacho,salads, and strawberries and cream.d C/Lombra, 6 (at the bottom of theCalvari staircase) • 971 532693@Bar Mallorca, Cala S.VicençOn the beach, look for thelittle stone hut with red tile roofand dried grasses over its terrace.You can get drinks and snacks,and hang out well into the night.d Cala Molins, Cala Sant Vicenç£Aquamarine, PollençaA jewellery shop offeringprecious and semi-precious stonesset in silver and gold. All designsare original, some using unusualstones, such as the “rose of theIncas”, purple sugilites, andAlexandrite sapphires. d C/Jesús,corner of Calvari steps • 971 534315$Ceràmiques Monti-Sion,PollençaA traditional ceramics workshopwith beautiful reproduction tilesand also a collection of antiqueoriginals from the 18th and 19thcenturies. d C/Monti-Sion, 19%Caramba Café, Port dePollençaFriendly café serving authenticItalian coffee, sandwiches andsalads. Computers with internetaccess make it a pleasant placeto check emails. Enjoy a glass oftheir excellent wine selection onthe small, outdoor terrace.d C/Mestral, 7 • 971 86 66 46^Galeries Vicenç, PollençaTwo large floors full of Mallor-can crafts and original art. You’llfind traditional robes de llengüescloth, genuine antiques, lamps,sculpture, rustic furniture, woodenbowls, ceramics and glassware.d Can Berenguer Roundabout (Rotonda)• 971 530450 • www.galeriesvicens.com&Café L’Algar,Port de PollençaA croissanteria with style and asense of history, tricked out ingreen awnings and matchingdirector’s chairs, with beaux-artslamps and potted plants.d Plaça Miquel Capllonch • 971 866880*Tango, Port de PollençaA relaxed, plant-filled caféwith mellow music and a goodrange of snacks including severalvegetarian options. d C/Atilio Boverii• 971 866708(Arrels, Port de PollençaAn amazing array of hand-made Mallorcan crafts, some of itthe island’s best. The traditionalceramic whistles are featured,as well as olive-wood carvings,and a special line of leathermasks by Calimba of Palma.d Passeig Saralegui, 54 • 971 867017)Gran Café 1919,Port d’AlcúdiaThis sophisticated café withtouches of Modernista is alwaysthronged with people. Smartlydressed waiters set the tone.d Passeig Marítim, 8 • 971 897444
  • 100. 108AroundtheIsland–NorthCoastNote: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants have disabledaccess, accept credit cards and serve vegetarian dishesPrice CategoriesFor a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.€ under €20€€ €20–€30€€€ €30–€40€€€€ €40–€50€€€€€ over €50Places to EatLeft Stay Right Ca’l Patró!LaTetera, PollençaA friendly little restaurantwith an eclectic menu that mightinclude Thai green curry, goat’scheese salad, Spanish-stylesandwiches and cream teas.d C/ Temple, 7 • 971 530792 • €@Stay, Port de PollençaUpmarket restaurant notedfor having some of the bestcuisine on the island. Fish is thespeciality, but the menu of newinternational fare is huge. Thefish soup and fish with dill sauceare sublime. d Main jetty • 971864013 • www.stayrestaurant.com • €€€£DakotaTex Mex,Port de PollençaThis bar and grill borders on beinga fast-food joint, but it has a greatmix of fajitas, tacos, guacamole,hot dogs, hamburgers, 25 beers,margaritas and more. No need tobook. d Plaça Miquel Capllonch, 5 • €$Luna de Miel,Port de PollençaVast, colourful and popular Chin-ese restaurant offering everythingfrom squid with bamboo to chopsuey. d Passeig Saralegui, 1 • 971 867061 • 12–4pm, 6pm–12am • No dis acc • €%Tribeca, Port de PollençaSophisticated place thatuses the freshest local produceto create international menus,such as ceviche of salmon or amedley of wild mushroom pâté.d Carretera Formentor, 43 • 971 866423• www.puertopollensa.com/tribeca • €€€^La Balada del Agua delMar, Port de PollençaSet in a beautiful house with Mod-ernist touches and a lush gardensetting in front of the water. Theselect menu changes regularlyand features typical Mallorcanspecialties. d Passeig Voramar, 5• 971 864276 • Closes early; reservationsessential • Closed Nov–Mar • €€€€&Ca’n Cuarassa, Port dePollençaSet in a handsomely restoredmansion in extensive gardens,this restaurant offers Mallorcanand international specialitiesincluding succulent meats grilledover charcoal. d Platja Ca’n Cuarassa• 971 864266 • €€€*Ca’l Patró, Cala SantVicençA lovely terrace restaurantoverlooking a beautiful cove. Shyaway from the hot dogs and pizzasin favour of the local dishes. d CalaBarques • 971 533899 • No dis acc • €(Los Zarzales, Port dePollençaMallorcan food is served withan original flair, such as cod withhoney and sobrassada. d C/JafudaCresques, 11 • 971 865137 • €)Es Canyar, AlcúdiaThe feel is North African, withlive music and art exhibited. Mor-occan and Middle Eastern cuisineis on offer, such as hummus,tabouleh and tajines along withpizzas, salads and tapas. d C/Major,2 • 971 547282 • 8pm–3am • €€
  • 101. Following pages BunyolaAroundtheIsland–NorthCoast109Nightclubs and BarsLeftTrotters Bar Centre Pepe’s Bar Right Mulligan’s!Trotters Bar,Cala Sant VicençThe only British bar in town is apopular and fun place, sometimeswith live music and internationallyknown acts. Check out bigscreen Sky TV, a bit of karaoke,darts or pool, and acquire yourown Trotters T-shirt. d C/Temporal,opposite the Mini Golf • 669 599487• 11am till late@Pepe’s Bar, Cala SantVicençSet in a classically Spanishbuilding that could be in Andalucia– white with a red-tile roof, and aquaint footbridge – Pepe’s offerssimple drinks and snacks. d Avda.Torrent, Cala Molins • All day till late£Mulligan’s, Port de PollençaA very happening Irish joint,full of cute 20-somethings livingit up. Make it the place for drinksbefore hitting the discos all nightlong. d C/Atilio Boveri, 5 • 971 867559$Ocean Bar, Port de PollençaA small, friendly English-runbar serving food all day anddrinks in the evenings. Weeklybingo and pub quizzes make itpopular with ex-pats. d C/JoanXXIII, 37 • 971 864526%Bar Cloud 9, Port d’AlcúdiaA lovely, plant-filled terracewith comfortable wicker chairsis the main attraction here. BarCloud 9 is a family-friendly barwith a games room offeringdarts, pool and cards. d C/GalloSalvage, 2 • 971 890016^Chivas, Port de PollençaThe crowd is young; theplace is loud and dark, featuringmirrors and a glass ceiling with astate-of-the-art lighting systemover the dance floor (see alsop73). d C/Metge Llopis, 5 • 11pm–6am• www.pollensanet.com/chivas • Onlyopen Fri & Sat Nov–Mar • Adm&La Belle Café-Teatro,Port d’AlcúdiaComedy, drag shows and livemusic draw big crowds to thispopular spot. The entertainmentis usually suitable for familiesbut check in advance to be sure.d C/Arta, 122 • 971 891273*Drunken Duck,Port d’AlcúdiaA bit hidden away, this fun placeprovides a non-stop party for thewhole family, with karaoke andgames of outrageous charades.d C/Estrella, 3 • 11am–2am(Menta, Port d’AlcúdiaDone up like a lavish Romanvilla, with terraces, fountains andeven a swimming pool. Party nightsinclude Latin, African and RomanToga (see also p73). d Avda. Tucan• 971 891972 • www.mentadisco.com• 11pm–6:30am • Adm)Apoteket Bar, Portd’AlcúdiaHipsters in the party mood headfor this Swedish bar which holdshugely popular parties throughoutthe summer. d Puerto Alcúdia • www.apoteket-bar.com • 10pm till late • Adm
  • 102. AroundtheIsland–SoutheastCoast112Southeast CoastLeft Ses Paisses Centre Cala Figuera Right MondragóTHIS IS BEACH COUNTRY PAR EXCELLENCE!While some of the beaches have seen theworst of mass tourism, more remain asbeautiful as ever, offering some of theMediterranean’s most clear, azure andinviting waters. Here, too, you’ll findthe verdant Serra de Llevantmountain range and some of theisland’s best natural parks, not tomention its most importantancient sites and most magicalcaves waiting to be explored.Sights1 Capdepera2 Ses Paisses3 Coves d’ Artà4 Coves d’es Hams5 Coves del Drac6 Santuari deSant Salvador7 Parc Natural deMondragó8 Cala Figuera9 Capocorb Vell0 Illa de CabreraStatue, Santuari deSant Salvador
  • 103. AroundtheIsland–SoutheastCoast113!CapdeperaYou can glimpse this castlefrom miles away, its rickrack formsprawling appealingly around thecrest of its sizeable hill. A citadelof some sort has existed heresince Roman times, guarding thesea approach, but the presentcrenellated classic dates back toKing Sanç in the 14th century.You can drive up, if you’re luckyenough to find the right street inthe tightly knit little town below,but the walk up from pleasantPlaça de l’Orient is far more fun.Within the walls is a curious littleGothic church, from the flat roofof which you can take in morespectacular vistas. d Map H3@Ses PaïssesA link with the Mallorcans ofsome 3,000 years ago, theseBronze Age ruins of a Talayotvillage include a massive Cyclop-ean portal (see p55) formed fromthree stone slabs weighing up toeight tons each. Inside are severalrooms and an atalaia (watch-tower); and the entire settlementis surrounded by a Cyclopeandrystone wall. d South of Artà • MapG3 • Apr–Sep: 10am–7:30pm daily; Oct–Mar: 9am–1pm, 2:30–5pm Mon–Fri,9am–1pm Sat • Adm €1.30£Coves d’ArtàDuring the Christian Conquest,Jaume I found 2,000 Arabs hidingwith their cattle in this extraordi-nary network of caves. However,it was not until 1876, when geolo-gist Edouard Martel entered thegrottoes, 46 m (151 ft) above thesea at Cap Vermell, that they werestudied. Another early visitor wasJules Verne, whose book Journeyto the Centre of the Earth is saidto have been inspired by them(see also p45). d Ctra. de las Cuevas,Capdepera • Map H3 • 971 841293 •10am–5pm daily (to 7pm in summer) • Adm$Coves d’es HamsThese caves are less interest-ing than the Coves del Drac orCoves d’Artà. Their name means“fishhooks”, which the stalactitesare said to resemble. You get aguided tour and a concert (seealso p45). d Ctra. Portocristo–Manacor• Map G4 • www.cuevas-hams.com• Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm; Nov–Mar:10:30am–5pm • 971 820988 • AdmCastell de CapdeperaCoves d’Artà
  • 104. AroundtheIsland–SoutheastCoast114Containing Mass TourismMass tourism is now confined toparts of the island where it en-croached in the 1960s, primarilyCala Millor and some of the Calesde Mallorca. Other areas, mostnotably the prototype Cala d’Or,have been developed in a moresensitive way, favouring Spanisharchitectural styles – a pleasantmix of Andalusian and Balearic,with a hint of North African.%Coves del DracMallorca’s mostspectacular cavesystem is beautifullylit and can be touredin a gondola-styleboat (see alsopp32–3). d Map G4^Santuari deSant SalvadorThe castle-likestructure stands 4km (2 miles) east of Felanitx, ontop of Puig Sant Salvador, thehighest mountain of the Serresde Llevant. Founded in the 14thcentury, and remodelled in the18th century, the scanctuary isan important place of pilgrimage.The view includes the south-eastern coast of Mallorca. As inother former monasteries, visitorsare allowed to stay in basic rooms(see p146). d Puig de Sant Salvador,Felanitx • Map F5 • 971 827282&Parc Natural de MondragóMarked as a protected areain 1992, the park incorporatesmarshes, rocky coasts, beaches,dunes, farmland, pine forest andscrub. Country lanes and easytrails provide access. Look outfor herons, egrets, puffins, coots,ducks, finches and rabbits. d Southof Portopetro • Map F6 • Visitor Centre:971 181022*Cala FigueraThis tiny old fishing hamletis an underdeveloped gem. Itprobably owes its survival to thesimple fact that it has no beach,the closest one being 4 km (2miles) away at Cala Santanyí.What it does have is pleasantlow-rise structures and a friendlyarray of eateries and people-watching cafés. The Villa Sirenais perched on the promontory(see p142). d Map F6Cala FigueraSantuari de Sant Salvador
  • 105. AroundtheIsland–SoutheastCoast115Five Seaside BeautiesMorningThis itinerary, incorporatingdriving and walking, willtake a full day.Set out in the morning atlovely Portocristo (seep116), with its terracecafé-restaurantsoverlooking the port’spalisades. Pop intoAutèntic Mallorca (p117)and be sure to buy someMallorcan chocolate andother local products.Bypassing the infamouslyoverdeveloped Cales deMallorca, Portocolom(p116) is next, perhaps themost unspoiled andseductively beautifulfishing village left on theisland. Be sure to checkout the painted façades ofthe old town, and walk upto the colourful Bar ElsTamarells (p119) for adrink and to admire thesleepy central square.AfternoonMake your way down toPortopetro, a minusculeport that’s lost none of itsauthenticity. Have lunch atEl Campo (p118) just outof town on the road toAlquería Blanca.Cala Figuera is furthersouth. Stroll around itswoods-encircled harbourand browse around thegift shops.On the western side of theCap de ses Salines, you’llfind Colònia de SantJordi, a rangy beach townwith a bright, relaxingport. Stop here to havea wonderful fresh fishdinner at Port Blau (p118),and maybe spend thenight at the quaintHostal Playa (p144).(Capocorb VellThis Talayot settlement wasprobably established around 1000BC. Originally, it consisted of fivestone structures (talaiots) and 28smaller dwellings. The amazingCyclopean walls, reaching 4 m (13ft) in places, would have servedas protection, but little more isknown about the function of therooms or the lives of the ancientinhabitants. Be sure to have adrink at the visitors’ bar, which islike something out of The Flint-stones. d Ctra. Llucmajor–Cala Pi • MapD5 • 10am–5pm daily exc Thu • Adm)Illa de CabreraCabrera (“Goat Island”) lies18 km (11 miles) off the mainland.A rocky, bare place and virtuallyuninhabited, it nevertheless has arich history. It served as a prisoncamp during the NapoleonicWar and was used as a base byBarbary pirates. It was designateda national park in 1991. Boat tripsleave from Colònia de Sant Jordiand take a day – highlightsinclude a 14th-century castle onthe island (see p57) and CovaBlava (see p45). Keep an eye outfor the rare Lilford’s lizard,identifiable by its dog-like face.d Park information office: Plaça Espanya,Palma • 971 725010; Boat excursions:C/Explanada del Port, Colònia de SantJordi • Map H6 • 971 649034• Excursions daily at 10:30am • AdmTalaiotic ruins, CapocorbVell
  • 106. 116AroundtheIsland–SoutheastCoastFor public gardens near the Southeast Coast see p65Best of the RestLeft Cala Rajada Centre Portocristo Right Cala d’Or!ArtàAncient, prosperous townnoted for its basketry. d Map G3@Cala RajadaThis fishing port on Mallorca’seastern tip, surrounded by finebeaches and pretty coves, is acrowded resort in summer (seealso p41). d Map H3#Castell de SantueriArtà’s crowning glory is itshilltop fortress, the view fromwhich is one of Mallorca’s mostcharacteristic sights: a jumble oftiles in every shade of brown.$PortocristoA family resort at the end of asheltered inlet. Day-trippers comefor the nearby Coves del Drac(see pp32–3), aquarium (p33) andAuto-Safari (p69). d Map G4%FelanitxThe town is at the centre ofa wine-producing area and alsoknown for its floral-decoratedpottery and its capers, or “greenpearls”, which you can buy at theSunday market. d Map F5^PortocolomThis attractive fishingvillage was named in hon-our of Christopher Colum-bus, who is said (withoutmuch evidence) to havebeen born here. It hasfound a new lease of lifeas a resort favoured bySpanish visitors. d Map G5&Cala d’OrNot just one cove, but many,with their respective beachesand pueblo-style villas, make upthis garden-green, stylish zone.Each former humble fishing dockhas metamorphosed into aclassy marina catering for adiscerning set of internationalclientele. d Map F5*SantanyíThis is the café centre for allthe foreigners who own villasnearby, but it’s still very Spanish.Buildings are made from thesame golden sandstone used inPalma’s cathedral. The streets nearthe church are the focus of a livelyWednesday market. d Map F6(CamposA famous painting by 17th-century Sevillian artist Murillohangs in the parish church of thisdusty agricultural town. Next dooris a museum with a collection ofoffertory bowls. d Map E5)Ses CovetesThese days there’s no traceof the “small caves”, pre-sumed ancient Romanburial niches, that inspiredthe name. Located at thenorthern end of Es Trenc(see p43), the island’sfinest, longest, totallyundeveloped, clothing-optional beach, this placeresembles more of adusty shanty-town thananything else. d Map E6Church interior, Artà
  • 107. AroundtheIsland–SoutheastCoast117Cafés and ShopsLeft Bar Marítimo Centre Café Sa Plaça Right Sa Pedra!Bar Marítimo, Cala RajadaLooks a bit like the deck ofan ocean liner. It’s a place to relax,have a drink or a snack, and sur-vey the busy boats going in andout. d Passeig Marítim • 971 738192@Sa Pedra, PortocristoCafé-restaurant hung withcontemporary paintings and witha huge terrace overlooking thepalisades, boats and port. Icecreams, snacks and full mealsavailable (see also p81). d C/ Verí, 4• 971 820932#The Codfather, PortocristoThe clubby, nautical-themedecor of the bar, with sailing tro-phies everywhere, suits the portsetting, while the whitewashedmedieval interior reminds you ofthe place’s roots. d Club Nàutic• 971 865424$Komudus, PortocristoA shop with original designsfrom Menorca: suede bags, tradi-tional shoes and sandals, originalT-shirts and fine linen clothing.They also carry anodized alumin-ium jewellery. d C/Mar, 9 • 971 821527%Autèntic Mallorca,PortocristoThis special shop has all thingsMallorcan: some 90 productsincluding sandals, natural scents,dolls, musical instruments, glass,preserves, sausages, liqueurs,turrón (nougat), fig confectionsand olives. d C/Sant Jordi, 18• 971 821108^Café Sa Plaça, SantanyíCome for pa amb oli (seep78), olives, ham, pickled peppersand Mallorcan cheeses. Therefurbished interior has marbletabletops and archways, and out-side you can watch the localaction in the main square. (seep81). d Plaça Major, 26 • 971 129678&Reina Rana, SantanyíA treasure trove of glitteringcostume jewellery, beautifultextiles for the home andhundreds of original gift ideas.d Plaça Major 15 • 971 642075*Basketry Shops, ArtàArtà is famous as Mallorca’scentre for handsome everydayitems made from the toughfibres of the palmito (palmetto)plant, which grows wild all overthe island. d Miguel Fuster, C/Pep Not,16; and Aina Alzamora, C/Parres, 20(Panaderia Pons, Colòniade Sant JordiThe ensaimades (spiral-shapedsweet pastries) are light andfluffy and are sold alongsideother delicious local pastriesand various picnic essentials.d C/Major, 29 • 971 655171)Toca Madera,Colònia de Sant JordiToca Madera stocks cottonclothes and unusual gift itemsfrom all over world, includingcandles, glassware, masksand sandals. d C/Estanys, 4;C/Gabriel Roca, 5
  • 108. 118AroundtheIsland–SoutheastCoastNote: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants have disabledaccess, accept credit cards and serve vegetarian mealsPrice CategoriesFor a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.€ under €20€€ €20–€30€€€ €30–€40€€€€ €40–€50€€€€€ over €50Places to EatLeft Portopetro Right L’Arcada!Sassecador, PortocristoDecorated with Moroccantilework, Tiffany-style lampshadesand pictures of old Mallorca. Enjoya view of the marina while youpartake of a traditional Mallorcanmeal. d C/Mar, 11 • 971 820826 • €€@Molí d’en Sopes,Portocristo-ManacorClose to a windmill on the crestof a hill. The skate salad is unusual,or try the chicken breast stuffedwith salmon, and plantains flambéfor dessert. d Ctra. Menacor-Patrocristokm 4 • 971 550193 • €€€€€£Sa Cuina, PortocolomThe food here combinestraditional Mallorcan dishes andmodern international cuisine. Thedecor is a nice mix of traditionaland contemporary design. d Ctra.s’Horta-Portocolom, C/Vapor deSantueri s/n. • 971 824 080 • €€€€$Vista Hermosa, betweenFelanitx and PortocolomWith its mountaintop gardensand terrace with stunning views,this international gourmet choiceis one of the island’s most beauti-ful. Along with the top wines, trysuch delights as quail with balsam-ic cherries and sour cream. dCtra. P.M. 401, km 6 • 971 824960 • €€€€%Ca’n Martina, PortopetroCome for fresh fish andMallorcan specialities includingblack paella, as well as kids’standards such as hamburgers.d Passeig des Port, 56 • 971 657517 • €€^El Campo, between Alque-ría Blanca and PortopetroThe tantalizing aromas are thefirst things you’ll notice, then theinfectious Spanish music. Regionaldishes include roasted peppers,grilled meat, fish and rice soupand barbecued rabbit. d Carreterade Portopetro, 44 • 971 164265 • €€€&L’Arcada, Cala FigueraHas the most central spoton the port, with the best views.Fresh fish dishes depend on theday’s catch. Also pizza, vegetabledishes and Mallorcan food. d CalleVirgen del Carmen, 80 • 971 645032 • €€*Port Blau,Colònia de Sant JordiUses fish caught around Illa deCabrera, served up in vast portionsin an open dining area on the port.d C/Gabriel Roca, 67 • 971 656555 • €€€(Son Colom,FelanitxThis pleasant restaurant has afriendly atmosphere and pridesitself on its Mediterranean dishesprepared with local produce.d Ctra. Felanitx–Campos, km 1• 971 581076 • €€)Sa Canova, CamposMore good country fare.Consider a fideo (noodle) dish,Mallorcan soup of cabbage andpork, grilled rabbit in onion saucewith snails, lobster casserole orroast duck in port with fresh appleand orange slices. d Avda. RondaEstacion, 35 • 971 650210 • €€€
  • 109. AroundtheIsland–SoutheastCoast119Nightclubs and BarsLeft Beez-Neez bar Right Cala Figuera!Café Parisien, ArtàA wonderfully rustic place,with an open fireplace, two dogsand an affable proprietor. There aredrinks (including drinking choco-lates), pastries, tapas and dailyspecials. d C/Ciutat, 18 • 971 835440@Physical, Cala RajadaThe port attracts a young,active crowd for whom this is thenumero uno club in town, leadingthe way with techno, hip-hopand black music. d C/Coconar, 25s• www.grupo-physical.com£Twist, PortocristoA hip place done up in primarycolours, with tiny halogen lightsabove a granite bar and an assem-blage by Basque artist S’AntoIñorrieta. d Es Riuet • 971 820173$Es Carreró, PortocristoThis entire street, just a blockfrom the Marina, is loaded withtiny dives that are thronged frommidnight to 7am. Glitzily-dressedyoung people come out to partyin Makoki’s, Saltre Pub, PubLimite, Mongo Bongo, Séstil, EsBidò and more (see also p73).%Bar ElsTamarells,PortocolomLook for the drunk-looking seahorsesign. Inside, it’s loud and packedwith young Spaniards and Mallor-cans. The main room has a big TV,bar and tables, while the terracehas views of the entire port. Thereis also a quieter room with tablefootball. d C/Mar, 21 • 971 825384^Beez-Neez Bar, PortocolomBritish all the way, with Skysports, Guinness, English break-fast, cocktails and kebabs. Kidsare welcome, even in the “beer-garten” (see also p73), and thereare karaoke nights. On the samestreet are other bars whosenames reveal their nationality.d C/Assumpciò, 7 • 6:30pm–4am daily&Calipso, PortocolomThis late-night draw is thearea’s choice for a modern Span-ish music repertoire. d C/Assumpciò• 971 825255*Port Pub, Port deCala d’OrThe evocative decor mixesUS license plates and nauticalobjects. The annex below is theEl Faro wine bar, and all of it ispart of a white stucco complex oftrendy shops and restaurants. dAvda. Cala Llonga, Port Petit • 971 659006(La Bodegnida del Medio,Cala RajadaLively, friendly bar with an en-chanting lantern-lit garden. Salsaand merengue is the soundtrack,and great mojitos top a finecocktail list. d Passeig del Mar)Disco Mond-Bar,Cala FigueraA very popular spot with a hugeterrace, Miró-esque decorationsand a good-sized dance floor.Music tends towards hits of theday, with occasional live acts.d C/Pintor Bernareggi
  • 110. AroundtheIsland–CentralPlain120Central PlainLeft Els Calderers Centre Petra Right Characteristic windmills on the Central PlainYOU HAVEN’T REALLY SEEN MALLORCA until you’ve wended your way overEs Pla (The Plain). People argue whether the mountains or coast representsthe real Mallorca, but the true heart of the island is surely to be found in thevillages here, which make few concessions to tourism. This is where food isgrown and where most of the island’s leatherworkers, potters and the manu-facturers of traditional robes de llengües (cloth offlame) and the prized artificial pearls are based.Sights1 Binissalem2 Lloseta3 Inca4 Sa Pobla5 Muro6 Petra7 Manacor8 Els Calderers9 Montuïri0 Gordiola GlassworksGordiola Glassworks
  • 111. AroundtheIsland–CentralPlain121!BinissalemDon’t be put off byits brutal appearancefrom the highway.Hidden behind thecommercial tackiness,the historic centredates back to theancient Romans, and isnow dominated bycenturies-old stonemansions very muchworth a stroll around. The town’swealth arose from its pre-eminence as the island’s wineproducer, starting 500 years ago.In recent years, after a century orso of decline, its reputation hasagain been on the rise, as evi-denced by the important wineryoutlets along the main road (seepp51 & 124). d Map D3@LlosetaTraditionally part of theleather-crafting enterprises in thearea, this town is situated on asloping foothill. It has a pleasant,tree-lined approach, a charmingcentral square and several goodrestaurants. d Map D3£IncaInca, the last stop on thetrain journey from Palma, is amodern industrial place, butvisitors come for the cheapleather goods inAvinguda GeneralLuque and Gran Via deColon. Thursday,market day, is Inca’sbusiest time, tradingin souvenirs, house-hold goods, flowersand food. Inca is alsoknown for its tradition-al cuisine, includingcaracoles (snails), andits wine cellars converted intorestaurants. d Map E3$Sa PoblaPerhaps the most impressivething about this agricultural townis its cemetery, which has unu-sually beautiful monuments. Themain square and mansion of CanPlanes, which houses the Museude la Jugeta (see p68), are alsoattractive, and the town is notedfor its Sunday market and Januaryfestival (see p52). Otherwise, theplace is fairly low key. d Map E2%MuroA pleasant, sleepy town fullof old mansions and dominatedby the church of Sant JoanBaptista. The adjacent belfry haswonderful views (see p57). TheMuseu Etnológic (see p63)houses furniture, costumes,tools and instruments. d Map E3If you are buying wine at Binissalem, remember crianza is good,reserva even better and gran reserva the bestLeft Inca main square Right Altar of Sant Joan Baptista, MuroChurch, Binissalem
  • 112. AroundtheIsland–CentralPlain122 For more on the isolated monasteries of Es Pla see pp60–61Mallorca’s WindmillsMallorca is famous for itshundreds of windmills, especiallyin the region of Es Pla. Theseingenious devices have beenused in the Mediterranean sinceat least the 7th century. Nowreplaced by motorized pumps,most stone windmills have falleninto disrepair and decrepitude.However, in the zone betweenPalma, Algaida and Llucmajor,ecology-minded farmers haveinstalled modern metal windmills.missions established by Serra. Atthe end of the street in whichthe Serra family house stands isthe 17th-century monastery ofSant Bernat. A series of Majolicapanels down a side street nextto the monastery are a gift fromgrateful Californians and paytribute to the monk. d Map F4&ManacorMallorca’s second city is fa-mous for artificial pearl factories,of which Perlas Majórica (see p124)is the best-known, producing 50million a year. The method, invol-ving fish scales, repeated bakingand polishing, can be witnessedon the free tour. Also look insidethe Església de Nostra Senyoradels Dolors to find a figure ofChrist with scraggly hair and askirt, and pilgrims lining up to kisshis bloodstained feet. d Map F4^PetraThis small town is the birth-place of Junipero Serra. Aged 54,the pioneering Franciscan monktravelled to America and Mexicoand after many arduous journeyson foot, founded missions inCalifornia. The old houses liningthe labyrinth of narrow alleyshave changed little since Serra’stime here. The town makes themost of its famous son, and allplaces associated with Serra arewell marked.These include a hum-ble building in Carrer Barracar Altwhere Serra was born. Next tothis is a small museum, openedin 1955, devoted to his life andwork, which includes woodenmodels of the nine AmericanManacor’s churchPetra
  • 113. AroundtheIsland–CentralPlainTake care when driving on the narrow roads in this region. Signsfrom town to town are abundant, but there are few other markers123A Day’s DriveThrough Es PlaMorningBegin in the north, at SaPobla (see p121), whereyou should be sure to visitthe cemetery and Museude la Jugueta (see p68).Proceed south to Muro(p121) for a look at thehandsome Sant JoanBaptista church, Muro’sfamous bull ring and theMuseu Etnològic (p63).Drive through pretty SantaMargalida, then Maria dela Salut, and on tomedieval Sineu, at thegeographic centre of theisland, where you canstroll and have a drink atEs Cadafal café (see p124).By now, it should beabout lunchtime, socontinue on to Petra tohave a wonderfully elegantmeal at Sa Plaça (seep125), and to check outthe hometown of FrayJunípero Serra.After lunch, make yourway on through Sant Joanand then to appealingMontuïri, with itssignature windmills. Next,cut down to Porreres andtake the road from thereto Llucmajor. Be sure tostop off along the way fora walk around the quaintlypicturesque grounds ofthe Finca Son Sama.The last leg of the journeyis to head back north toAlgaida, being sure to popinto Raïms for a look at itstimeless charm.Finally, just to the west ofAlgaida, take a prolongedtour of the GordiolaGlassworks, with itssuperb museum and shop.*Els CalderersThis country house chronicles200 years of the life of Mallorca’sgentry in a more modest versionof Sa Granja (see pp16–17).Demonstrations of traditionalmethods are part of the tour, andyou can see historic breeds ofMallorcan farm animals. d Followsigns from C715 • Map E4 • 10am–6pmdaily • Adm(MontuïriBuilt on a hill, the town ofMontuïri is famous for itsagricultural produce. Nineteen ofthe original 24 windmills stillstand as testimony to the town’sformer glory, striking in thelandscape. The Ermita de SantMiquel (see p61) is nearby,offering good views. d Map E4)GordiolaGlassworksThe glassworks were founded in1719, but the present castle-like,Neo-Gothic building dates fromthe 1960s. The place offers aunique opportunity to watchglass-blowers at work, and itsworld-class museum of glass(see p63) also fires enthusiasmfor the substance. You can buyeverything from cheap bibelotsto chandeliers fit for a castle.d Map D4 • Ctra. Palma-Manacor, Km 19,Algaida • 971 665046 • 9am–1:30pm &3–6pm Mon–Fri, 9am–midday Sat• www.gordiola.com • FreeEls CalderersAfternoon
  • 114. 124AroundtheIsland–CentralPlainCafés and ShopsLeftWines, Binissalem Right Camper shoe factory sign!Es Cadafal, SineuA café in the town’s centralsquare, where you can study themagnificent parish church andlisten to birds chirping (see alsop81). d Plaça Major, 5 • 971 520538@Bar Ca’nTomeu, PetraBy the main square, thisbar has a local feel and decor.You’ll find pa amb oli (see p78),tapas and salads. d C/Sol, 47• 971 561023£Tejidos Artesania,Santa Maria del CamíThe only manufacturer of robesde llengües (tongue of flame cloth)that still uses traditional methodson antique looms. Tablecloths andother furnishings are sold (seealso p70). d Artesania Textil Bujosa, C/Bernardo Santa Eugenia, 53 (E of Bunyola)• 971 620054 • www.bujosatextil.com$José L. Ferrer, BinissalemThe famous winery is wortha stop for both the tour and thewine-tasting. You’ll find the reds,made from Mantonegro and Calletgrapes, and the white, made fromMoll. d C/Conquistador, 103 • 971511050 • www.vinosferrer.com • Winetasting at 11am & 4:30pm Mon–Fri • Adm%Camper Factory Outlet, IncaThe famous Spanish shoesare made right here and you canhave first pick of the neweststyles at reduced prices. Followthe billboards featuring a hugefoot. d Poligono Industrial, off main road• 971 507158 • www.camper.es^Pelinca, IncaA bit off the beaten track, thisoutlet has an extensive range ofstylish jackets, bags and shoes.Prices are slightly lower thanelsewhere in town. d C/GeneralLuque, 309 • 971 501207&Kollflex, SelvaThe well-known brand hasbeen producing excellent jackets,accessories and shoes for shopsall over the world since 1927. Youcan take a brief factory tour andbrowse through the large shop.d Carretera de Lluc, 45 (north of Inca)• 971 515027 • www.kollflex.com*Perlas Majorica, ManacorTour the best-known factory(see p122), where the sight ofimperfect pearls being smashedcan be unnerving. Then enter thelarge showroom, usually throngedwith avid buyers. The glass-coredgems come in every colour andsetting imaginable. d C/Pedro Riche• 971 550900 • Shop 9am–7pm Mon–Fri;factory 9am–5pm • Both 10am–1pm Sat& Sun • Free(Art-Metall, ManacorThe place to find the wrought-iron objects seen all over theisland – candelabra, mirrors etc.d C/Cid Campeador, 2 • 971 555922)Gordiola Glassworks,BaixosA great collection of glass fromaround the world, from ancientto modern, and an amazing arrayof glass merchandise (see p123).
  • 115. Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants have disabledaccess, accept credit cards and serve vegetarian mealsAroundtheIsland–CentralPlain125Price CategoriesFor a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.€ under €20€€ €20–€30€€€ €30–€40€€€€ €40–€50€€€€€ over €50Places to EatLeft Read’s Right Leon de Sineu!Read’s, Santa Mariadel CamíThe dining room of this Michelinstar restaurant is defined by twoarches, Classical frescoes and ofa balustrade overlooking the sea.The food is close to perfect. Don’tmiss the Lobster “Cappuccino”(see also p83). d 971 140262• www.readshotel.com • €€€€€@Molí desTorrent,Santa Maria del CamìCreative French cuisine, suchas variations of goose liver, babygoat with goat’s cheese andbeets, sea bass on cous-couswith asparagus, and delectabledesserts. d Ctra. de Bunyola, 75• 971 140503 • €€€€£Celler C’An Amer, IncaA traditional wine cellarserving sturdy portions of typicalMallorcan dishes accompaniedby a good range of local wines.d C/Pau, 39 • 971 501261 • €€$Leon de Sineu, SineuLight, international cuisineis served in the garden or in-side under a broad Catalanarch. Octopus salad, meatballsstuffed with squid and otherMediterranean dishes have flair.d C/dels Bous, 129 • 971 520211 • Nodis acc • €€€%Celler Es Grop, SineuThe restaurant is housed inan atmospheric wine bodega.Choose from lechona (sucklingpig), arroz brut (peasant rice),tumbet (stewed vegetables) andcaracoles (snails). d C/Major, 18 • 971520187 • No dis acc • €€^Sa Plaça, PetraThe freshest food is servedin a charming setting, filled withflowers, antiques and classicalmusic. The chicken liver pâté andthe courgettes (zucchini) stuffedwith salmon are incredible.d Plaça Ramon Llull, 4 • 971 561646• www.saplacapetra.com • €€€&Es Figueral Nou, MontuïriMedallions of Iberian pork inhoney sauce is a typical dish ofthis elegant 15th-century manorhouse. d Ctra Montuïri-Sant Joan, km 0.7• 971 646764 • www.esfigueral.com • €€€€*Es Mirador, Ctra.Llucmajor-PorreresTry mushrooms, snails or broch-ettes of rabbit, lamb or quail. Theplace has an ancient, rustic feel(see also p143). d Km 3.5 • 971120959 • Closed Sun • €€(Es Recó de Randa, AlgaidaA tranquil place with inventivecuisine, including aubergine(eggplant) stuffed with salt cod.The tasting menu is excellent.d C/Font, 21, Randa • 971 660997 • €€€€)C’an Mateu, AlgaidaSet in a 400-year-old inn, therestaurant is popular with locals,and local meats and vegetablesare used for traditional dishes,such as snails in broth. d Ctra. Viejade Manacor, km 21 • 971 665036 • €€€
  • 116. STREETSMARTPlanning Your Trip128Getting to Mallorca129Getting Around130Health and Security131Things to Avoid132Banking andCommunications133Tips for Families134Tips for DisabledTravellers135Budget Tips136Drinking and Eating Tips137Shopping Tips138Accommodation Tips139Places to Stay140–147STREETSMART
  • 117. Streetsmart128Planning Your Triprequest. Contact them inyour home country or,better still, pay them avisit if possible.^MallorcanTourist OfficesThe tourist offices inPalma and across Mallorcaare staffed by multilingualpeople who have a goodknowledge of the island.&InternetInformationMallorcans are not heavyusers of the Internet, butthere are some goodmultilingual web guides,as listed in the Directory.*LanguagesThe local language isMallorquí, a dialect ofCatalan, but Castilian(Spanish) is also spokeneverywhere. Signs canbe a confusing mixture ofboth. Many islanders whowork in the tourist indus-try can also speak Germanand English, and oftenFrench, Italian and more.(InsuranceIt is a good idea totake out private medicalinsurance, even if yourcountry has reciprocalmedical arrangementswith Spain. Then, shouldyou require treatmentwhile on holiday, you willsimply pay for the care,keep the receipts, and bereimbursed according tothe terms of your policy.General travel insuranceto cover flight cancella-tion and theft is alsostrongly recommended.!ClimateMallorca has mild,humid winters, and hot,dry summers. Expectdaytime temperatures inwinter to be above 12°C(53°F), and in summer notto fall below 30°C (86°F).@When to GoSummer is high sea-son in Mallorca. Autumnis thus a better time tovisit, when the weatheris still great, the water atits warmest and priceslower. Hiking and cyclingare best in April. Naturelovers should come inspring or autumn, whenbirds are on the move andwildflowers are blooming.£Visas and RedTapeEU citizens can enterSpain with just their validID card. Britons, Ameri-cans, Australians, NewZealanders and Canadiansneed only a valid passportfor automatic permissionto stay 90 days. All othernationalities must get avisa from their consulate.Most hotels will requestyour ID card or passport.$Spanish Embassiesand ConsulatesSpanish embassies orconsulates in your homecountry can provide infor-mation about visiting,studying, working andretiring in Spain.%Spanish NationalTourist OfficesThis service will load youup with maps, pamphletsand brochures upon)What toTakeCasual dress is gene-rally acceptable, so bringlightweight, loose-fittinglinens or cottons. A hatmay also be useful, anddon’t forget your favou-rite sunscreen and otherpharmaceutical items. Atleast one dressy outfit isa good idea if you plan tovisit an upmarketrestaurant or club.Left Internet sign CentreTourist information sign Right Airport signPrevious pages Forn des Teatre pastry shop, PalmaDirectorySpanish Embassiesand Consulates• UK (020) 7235 5555• USA (202) 452 0100• Canada (613) 7472252• Australia (02) 62733555MallorcanTouristBoardPlaça de la Reina, 2,Palma de Mallorca• 971 712216Spanish NationalTourist OfficesUK: 22–23 ManchesterSq, London (020) 74868077 • USA: 665 5thAve, New York • (1212)759 8822 • Canada: 2Bloor St West, Toronto• (1416) 916-3131• Australia: 203Castlereagh St, Sydney• (02) 9264 7966Internet Informationwww.mallorcaonline.com • www.infomallorca.com• www.mallorcaweb.net• www.illesbalears.es• www.spain.info
  • 118. Streetsmart129that in season does thetrip twice a day in 3–4hours (the other ferrieswill take up to 10 hours).The ride is generallycomfortable and offersgreat previews of themountainous westerncoast as you circle aroundthe island to berth at theport of Palma. Buying areturn ticket saves money.^By Ferry fromIbiza and MenorcaTrasmediterránea runs aregular ferry service fromIbiza and Menorca toPalma. Baleària runs aDénia–Ibiza–Palma servicewith no stop in Menorca.Cape Balear de Crucerosoffers a passenger-onlyservice to and from CalaRajada, while Iscomarserves Port d’Alcúdia.&Bringing a CarFast ferries can betaken from Barcelona andValencia. Inter-island fer-ries also carry cars, butsome must be booked inadvance in summer. (Hirecars cannot be transferredbetween islands.)*CruisesMany cruise shipsstop at Mallorca as partof a typical 10- or 15-daytour of Mediterraneanports. Cruise passengersrarely have enough timefor any more than Palma’stop sights and shops.(Private BoatMarinas are dottedaround the Mallorcancoastline, with no spot!By Air from theMainlandScheduled flights andcharters connect with allmajor Spanish and Euro-pean cities. Visitors fromthe US will have to makethe connection somewherein Europe. Mallorca’sairport is located 11 km(6 miles) southeast ofPalma, with taxis andbuses transporting visitorsto the city and resorts.@By Air from Ibizaand MenorcaThere are daily flightsfrom Ibiza and Menorcato Palma with Air Nostrum(part of Iberia) and othercarriers. Last-minute pla-ces are available, but bookahead in high season.£ChartersCheap charter flightsare readily available (asare flights from the “nofrills” airlines), but datesand times are fixed, andany refund unlikely. Span-air fly from Spanish cities– their one-way ticketsare fairly priced.$PackagesMany travel agentsoffer packages includingfull- or half-board lodgingsas well as flight and trans-fers, usually to the crowd-ed, mass-market resorts.%By Ferry from theMainlandFerries and jetfoils runfrom Barcelona andValencia (via Ibiza). Thebest bet is Trasmediter-ránea’s jetfoil (a catamaran)more desirable than PortPortals near Portals Nous(see p44), where mem-bers of the Spanish royalfamily usually moor theiryachts. Port d’Andratx(see p40) is also wellthought of, but there aremany cheaper options.)Private PlaneExcept for the oddprivate landing strip, allplanes have to land atPalma airport. Balloontrips are an entertainingoption on the east coast(see directory).Getting to MallorcaLeft Palma airport Centre Cruise ship RightTypical hairpin bend on the islandMallorca’s time zone is Continental European. The voltage is 220,using continental two-pronged plugsDirectoryPalma Airport971 789099Airlines• British Airways902 111333; www.britishairways.com• Air Europa: 902 401501; www.air-europa.com• Iberia 902 400500• Spanair: National 902131415; Palma 971 745020 www.spanair.com• easy Jet: 902 299992www.easyjet.comFerries• Trasmediterránea 902454645 www.trasmediterranea.es• Baleària 902 160180www.balearia.com• Cape Balear deCruceros 902 100444www.capebalear.es• Iscomar 902 119128www.iscomarferry.comMallorca Balloons971 818182 www.mallorcaballoons.com
  • 119. Streetsmart130Getting Around MallorcaThe normal abbreviations for roads are: “C/” for Carrer (Street),“Avda.” for Avinguda (Avenue) and “Ctra.” for Carretera (Highway)!BusesMallorca has an exten-sive network of buses.The central station is atPlaça Espanya in Palma;get a general timetablefrom any tourist agency.Palma also has a goodurban bus system (EMT).Buy tickets on board.@Trains andTramsThere are two railwaylines: one from Palma toSóller, the other Palma toInca (now continuing toSa Pobla and Manacor).They have separate stat-ions in Palma’s PlaçaEspanya. The delightfulSóller train, “Red Light-ning”, is first-class andoffers special tourist runsin the morning, at extracost. The utilitarian Incatrain stops everywhere.An attractive tram runsfrom Sóller to Port deSóller (see p68).£DrivingDriving here can befun, so long as you’re inno hurry. The Palma–Sóller and Palma–Incaroads are the only majorhighways. Other roads,though narrow and twist-ing, are in good repair forthe most part, thoughyou will need nerves ofsteel in some areas (seep132). Driving is the onlyway to see some of thesights and to fit a lot intoone trip (see also pp48–9).$MotorbikesThis is a popular optionas most of the roads areideal for scooting aroundon a two-wheeler. Motor-bikes and scooters canbe rented in most towns.%Hiring a VehicleCar hire is quite cheap.Most big agencies arerepresented at Palma air-port, or you can contactsome directly to makecomparisons. You’ll needto be 21 or over, with adriver’s licence and a cred-it card. Smaller cars arebetter for the narrow lanes.^BoatsTaking a boat is theonly way to see some ofMallorca’s most beautifulcoves and cliffs that areinaccessible by road.&TaxisGetting around bytaxi – at least within thecity of Palma – is quite areasonable proposition.Fares are moderate, andthere are enough taxis incirculation to give you agood chance of flaggingone down at any time ofday or night. A taxi rideacross the whole islandwill cost from €80.*CyclingCycling along countrylanes and mountain roadsis an excellent mode oftransport. Tandems and allsorts of other pedallingoptions are available forhire (see also p46).(Gentle WalksSome of the biggerport towns offer lovelypromenades right alongthe water’s edge. One ofthe best is the pedestrian-only Passeig AngladaCamarassa–Voramar inPort de Pollença. Port deSóller also has a broadpath that loops aroundmuch of its beautiful bay.)Long-DistanceWalksMuch of Mallorca is roughterritory and perfect forhiking. Easy slopes withlots of vegetation can befound all over the island,but if you want real chal-lenges, there’s plenty ofrugged mountain trails,many of which are sign-posted from town to town(see also pp46 & 48–9).Sóller tramDirectoryhttp://tib.caib.es (for allpublic transport info)BusesEMT 971 295700 or971 431024Trains• Sóller 971 752051• Inca 971 752245Taxis in Palma• 971 401414 • 971755440 • 971 728081Car Hire• Europcar 971 455111• Hertz 971 789670• Avis 971 730720Left Horse and cart for tourists, Palma Centre Parking meter sign Right Cyclists, Platja de Palma
  • 120. Streetsmart131!EmergencyNumbersYou can dial the free num-ber 112 in any type ofemergency; they speakEnglish and will alert theappropriate service. Thereare also free direct num-bers for the fire brigade,ambulance service, nation-al police, Guárdia Civil orthe local police (see box).Be ready to give preciseinformation about what isneeded and where you are.@AccidentsAn alternative sourceof help if you have anaccident of any sort isthe Creu Roja (Red Cross),who will send an ambu-lance and paramedics.£Health IssuesNo inoculations arerequired or advised priorto your visit. Sunburn andheatstroke are the mainsources of discomfort forvisitors – use sunscreen,wear a hat and take iteasy in the heat. Somepeople experience aminor stomach upset,which is more likely to befrom exposure to differentbacteria in the food andwater than real foodpoisoning (see p132).$PrescriptionsBring any prescrip-tion medicines you mightrequire, packed in yourcarry-on bag, not checkedluggage. This is becauseSpanish pharmaceuticalsmay differ from those inyour home country inname, dosage and form.%FarmaciasPharmacists are welltrained and a good sourceof advice for minor com-plaints. Some speak verygood English and mightbe able to sell you medi-cines that would normallybe available only by pres-cription in your homecountry. In Palma, manypharmacies (farmacias)are open 24 hours.^MultilingualDoctorsIf you are seriously ill andneed a doctor who speaksyour language, ask yourlocal consulate, hotel,pharmacy or tourist officefor contacts. If you needsomeone who worksunder the EU health plan,make sure that the doc-tor is part of the Spanishhealthcare system;otherwise, be preparedto pay on the spot andlater be reimbursed byyour insurance company.&CondomsCondoms need nolonger be smuggled intoSpain, as they had to beduring the Franco era.Find them in pharmacies,bars and even vendingmachines on the street.*DisabledTravellersUnfortunately, Mallor-ca is not well set-up forvisitors with any sort ofdisability. However, thelaw now requires that allnew public buildings havedisabled access – thenewest hotels are yourbest bet (see p135).(Petty CrimeIn any crowded area,there are bound to bepickpockets about. Oftenworking in pairs, theycreate distractions –sometimes very elaborateploys – then fleece theunwary. The best solutionis not to carry valuablesin purses, bum bags oroutside pockets, and notto leave your bags unat-tended for an instant.)Serious CrimeLong gone are thecenturies when Mallorcawas rife with rampagingbrigands and banditos.Serious crime is virtuallyunheard of on thispleasure-loving isle. How-ever, avoid wanderingthrough deserted, unlitalleys at night, especiallyin the seedier parts ofPalma, which – as any-where in the world – arethe territory of muggers.Left Pharmacy, Palma Centre Health shop sign, Andratx Right Doctor’s surgery signHealth and SecurityDirectoryEmergency Numbers• Any emergency 112• Fire 080• Ambulance 061• National Police 091• Civil Guard 062• Local Police 092Creu Roja (Red Cross)971 751445InternationalHospitals in Palma• Policlínca Miramar971 767500 www.miramar-hospital.com• Clínica Juaneda 971731647 www.clinicajueda.es
  • 121. Streetsmart132Things to Avoid!Tap WaterWater is a problemon the island, which,having no rivers at all andentire seasons withoutany rain, suffers fromquasi-drought conditionsmost of the time. You’llsee huge tank trucks trans-porting drinking water allaround the island, but ingeneral it’s better to drinkonly bottled water, sincemuch of the potablewater sits in cisterns forquite a long time.@Rancid FoodIn the heat of summer,check the freshness ofwhat you consume. Tapasdishes that look as ifthey have been around aday too long, anythingwith mayonnaise that’sbeen sitting out of thefridge, and shellfishserved in less thanfastidiously hygienicestablishments – all areprobably best refused.£Bad MannersDress respectfullywhen you visit Mallorca’schurches, and don’t visitat all during servicesunless you genuinely wantto join in. Note that nudismis officially illegal acrossthe island, but there arebeaches where it is toler-ated by the authorities.$Fakes andForgeriesIn the land of Miró, Dalí,Picasso and other greats,it’s wise to be wary ofsupposed “originals” byany of these masters.Copies, prints, forgeriesand outright fakes do abrisk business. To avoidthem, check your dealer’scredentials and ask forcertificates of authenti-cation and guarantees.%“Mystery”ToursEspecially in theheavily touristed zones,you might be offered atour that, on the face ofit, looks like somethingfor nothing. It might be adaytrip to an interestingsight at a cut-rate price,or an offer of cash or alavish meal just for goingto inspect a new condoproject. These are notpromotional bargains inthe usual sense, but hardsales ploys that shouldbe steered clear of.^Beach SnacksMost of the snackbars you find along thepopular beaches are over-priced and low quality,with a few exceptions.Just use them for a drinkand simple snack, suchas a pa amb oli. For realmeals, head to ourrecommended eateries.&Flower GirlsThese gypsy womenappear friendly enoughwhen they hand you aflower or a sprig of “lucky”rosemary. If you accept,however, they suddenlytransform into indignantcreatures demanding alot of money for theircheery “gift”. Do yourbest to dodge them andtheir little scam.*PeddlersMost pavement ped-dlers will do little morethan call out a word ortwo about their merchan-dise. But as soon as youshow an interest, you maybe in for a lot of pressureto buy. Make it clear thatyou’ll decide what, if any-thing, you’re going to buy.Check all merchandise,especially clothing, fordefects, then offer half ofthe asking price.(TrilerosYou’ll see this age-old gambling con in busypedestrian areas. Themain man shuffles threelittle cups, showing youhow easy it is to followthe one that covers thepea, or whatever.Usually, there’s someoneamong the onlookerswho’s working with himand who makes it appearvery easy to win. Thenthe gullible onlookersteps up to play… .)Hair-RaisingRoadsIf Grand Prix-style drivingis not to your liking, it’sbest to keep driving to aminimum along Mallorca’smost challenging moun-tain roads – especially ifany of your passengerssuffers from carsicknessor panic attacks. Thoughmost roads are well-maintained, they can beexceedingly narrow, sub-ject to hairpin bendsaround yawning chasms.The state of roads is notedthroughout this book.Left Street trading Right “Grand Prix” track, Península de Formentor
  • 122. Streetsmart133Note: while you’re in Mallorca, you must always dial the areacode, 971, even if just calling next door!ExchangeNow that the euro isthe coin of Spain andmany other realms, life ismuch easier for mostvisitors. Admittedly, thechangeover from pesetasto euros has resulted insome price inflation, but,for the most part, it’s noweasier to tell how muchyou’re spending.@Traveller’sChequesTraveller’s cheques are auseful safety precautionbut they are rarely accep-ted in hotels or shopsand changing them willincur a commission fee.£ATMsFor proper cash,ATMs are the very bestoption: readily availableand reliable. Spanishbanks do not chargetransaction fees, thoughyour own bank is likely tocharge a fee for using anon-branch machine. Agood procedure is to getthe maximum each time(usually €300), in whichcase the fee will probablybe only about 1% onyour money drawn out.But keep your cash hidden.$Credit CardsCredit cards can beused for most transactionsbut could be a problem forsome budget hotels,cheap restaurants, artgalleries and small placesin remote outposts. Beaware that your own bankmay charge you a 2%conversion fee for everycard purchase you make– a sum that can add upshockingly.%Wiring MoneyOnly as a last resort.You can have your banksend money to a bank onthe island, but expect itto take an indeterminatenumber of days, and forhigh charges to be levied.^MailPost offices (correus)are open only in the mor-ning, except for the mainpost office in Palma. Youcan also get stamps(segells) for letters andpostcards at tobaccoshops and newspaperstands. Spanish mail isusually reliable, butinevitably sometimeseven priority mail fails toreach its destination.&PhonesPhones provided inhotel rooms are conveni-ent but expensive. Mostpublic phone booths acceptcredit cards, phonecardsand coins, and can beused for local and interna-tional calls. Mobile phoneswork well almost every-where, but check withyour provider before leav-ing your home country.*InternetMany hotels haveInternet facilities, andthere are many cafés andbars in the larger towns(see p81) that offer theservice, as well as a fewspecific Internet points inPalma (see p92).(Newspapers andMagazinesIn hotels and kiosks inlarger towns you’ll find agood selection of the inter-national editions of majorNorth American and Euro-pean newspapers and thefree English-languageweekly Mallorca Today.Mallorca Daily Bulletinpublished every day ex-cept Monday, publiciseswhat’s on and lists theisland’s markets.)TV and RadioThe upper-tier hotelsall offer satellite TV, withmany German channelsand some in English,French or Italian. Thereare several German-language radio stations,and the BBC World Ser-vice is on FM 98.5. Sta-tions in Spanish, Catalanand Mallorquí feature abroad mix of Spanish andinternational pop music.DirectoryGeneral Post OfficeC/de la Constitució, 5,Palma • 971 721867• 8:30am–10pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–10pm Sat,midday–10pm SunInternational Codes• Country code whendialling from abroad: +34• Dialling abroad fromMallorca: 00,then country code, areacode and local numberDirectory Enquiries• Local and national 11818• International 11825Left Kiosk Centre Bank logo Right Racks of newspapersBanking and Communications
  • 123. Streetsmart134Tips for FamiliesGive your children sunhats, plaster them with a high-factorsunscreen and limit their time in the sun!Visitor and Ex-PatDemographicsMallorca is exceptionallywell geared to familiesand also has a number ofthriving ex-pat communi-ties. The majority ofvisitors are German, asevidenced by the German-language signs, radiostations and satellitechannels. Colònia deSant Jordi is virtually aGerman enclave, whilePortocolom has a greaterconcentration of Britons.Other corners of theisland (such as Port dePollença) have a thoroughmix of nationalities.@AccommodationUnless they specify“adults only”, most placesin Mallorca truly welcomefamilies. Hotels often letyou include any numberof children up to a certainage – sometimes as oldas the teens – at no extracharge, except perhaps anominal fee for the extrabed or two. The best op-tion for most families is aself-catering apartment.#HotelProgrammesLarger hotels and resortsmay have a programmeof activities for guests ofevery age. These may runfrom water aerobics,water polo or otherexercise regimes, tocrafts classes for adultsand organized games forpre-schoolers. Most suchactivities are scheduledon a weekly basis, with amonthly calendar postedin some conspicuousspot in the hotel lobby.$BabysittingMany hotels offerbabysitting services, espe-cially those that caterprimarily or exclusively topackage tourists. The costof the service is usuallyincluded in the package.There may also be asupervised play area forkids aged 4–8 or so.%Family MealsMost restaurants arehappy to cater for children.Some offer a separatemenu to please a child’spalate, and many will pre-pare special foods forinfants, so that you don’thave to depend on com-mercial brands all the time.^Merchandisefor ChildrenThere are shops galorefocusing on kids’ needsand wants – toys, beachgear, clothes and gadgets.International brands ofnappies and babyfood arewidely available. Most ofthe merchandise is cheapenough for you not tofret about leaving itbehind in preference tolugging it back home.&Fun Cultural andEcological SightsMany of Mallorca’s themeparks and museums haveexhibits and activitiesdesigned entirely withchildren in mind. Natureparks are of interest tomany children, andMallorca’s caves are verylikely to be a big hitwith your youngsters(see pp68–9).*Beaches andWater-parksBesides the obviousfamily attractions ofbuilding sandcastles andsplashing around in thesea, Mallorca also hassome great commercialwater-parks. The wholefamily can participate atthese, with your childrenburning up a full-day’sworth of energy. Outdoorzoos and aquariums areincorporated into some(see pp68–9).(Attractions forYourTeenagersIn addition to the family-oriented theme parks,there’s plenty of high-energy action for yourteenage children, such aswindsurfing, snorkelling,boating and hiking (seepp46–9).)NightlifeIn terms of nightlife,you will have to exerciseparental judgement aboutany ground rules andcurfews for teenagechildren in your party.Obviously, some of thebrasher resorts are thedomain of older teenagersand young adults whotravel in groups withoutfamilies, seeking only thebeach and nightlife. Someof the nightclubs catermainly to the youngercrowd, while others havea more diverse mix ofages (see pp72–3).Left Aquacity water-park CentreToys Palace, Pollença Right Miniature truck, Platja de Palma
  • 124. Streetsmart135!Access at theAirportHistorically lagging inproviding for people withmobility problems, Mal-lorca has finally begun tocatch up in recent years.At Palma airport you canfind adequate facilities ifyou have a disablity – aslong as you notify yourtravel agent and/or yourairline of your needs wellin advance, and thenreconfirm a week or sobefore departure.@Hotel AccessThe older hotels –often refurbished medievalstructures – rarely havefacilities for the disabled.The best bet is to bookinto the newest hotel youcan find, where elevatorsshould be big enoughand bathroom sizes etcwill comply with EU laws.But double-check thedetails before booking.#Wheelchair-Friendly BusesAll buses in Palma arenow able to handlewheelchair-bound travel-lers, including those goingto and from the airport.Contact the municipaltransport authority, EMT,for more information.$Cars andTaxisSpecially-equippedvehicles are a rarity onthe island. However, taxidrivers do their best tohelp disabled passengersand Mallorca Taxis (www.mallorcataxi.com) have carsadapted for wheelchairs.%TrainsMallorca’s trains areold and in no way accom-modating to independentwheelchair users. The onlyway to use them is to boardwith assistance and stowyour wheelchair for theduration of the journey.^RestaurantsMany restaurantspresent the problems oflots of steps and levels.Then again, staff areusually very willing tohelp, so you can generallymanage to dine at anyrestaurant of your choice.&Public BuildingsPublic buildings inPalma and other citiesare being brought up tospeed with EU regulationson accessibility. Manymuseums, for example,are being completelyremodelled to allow forramps and large elevators.Still, there are just asmany sights that, due totheir age and decrepitude,remain off-limits to thosewith limited mobility.*PublicConveniencesAgain, in museums andother public buildings,toilet facilities are beingremodelled to allow forwheelchair access. Butmost other public toiletshave tiny cubicles.(Resources inSpainThe Spanish NationalTourist Office (see p128)can give you the latestupdate on disabled facili-ties. There is also a goodnational organization forthe visually impaired,ONCE, which can provideBraille maps and arrangeaspects of your trip.)Other ResourcesSeveral good English-language websites pro-mote independent travelby providing information,practical tips andencouragement. Somewill even help you planthe details of your trip.DirectoryWheelchair-FriendlyBusesEMT: 971 431024Resources in SpainOrganización Nacionalde Ciegos de España(ONCE):C/Manacor, 8,Palma • 971 775522• www.once.esOther ResourcesAccess-Able TravelServices: www.access-able.com• Sath (USA): 212-447-7284, www.sath.org• Accessible Travel (UK):(01452) 729739,www.accessibletravel.co.uk• Mobility InternationalUSA, Eugene, OR,(541) 343-1284,www.miusa.org• Australian Council forRehabilitation of theDisabled (ACROD) (02)6283 3200,www.acrod.org.auLeftWheelchair priority sign Centre Airport taxi Right Beach visitor informationTips for Disabled Travellers
  • 125. Streetsmart136Budget Tips!Off-SeasonBargainsComing out of season isby far the best way tomake your holiday moneygo further in Mallorca.Prices plummet as thethrongs of July andAugust become only afaint memory in the mindsof hoteliers and restaura-teurs. Low-season pricesfor everything can delightthe budget-minded travel-ler, plus you have the lux-ury of being one of onlya few, rather than one ofuncountable thousands.@Package DealsIf you choose thelocation carefully, an all-inclusive package canmean excellent value.Make sure that transfers,taxes and other extrasare also covered.£Self-CateringIf you can book far inadvance, you should beable to secure one ofthe cheaper self-cateringapartments in a prettyseaside town with goodfacilities (see p147). Ruraltourism is becomingincreasingly popular andrenting a country home(casa rural) or apartmentcan be surprisinglyinexpensive.$CampingThere are no officialcamp sites in Mallorcaand camping rough isprohibited in urban areasand in zones prohibited formilitary or other reasons.You are allowed to camprough elsewhere, but tryto obtain permissionfrom the landowner first.%PicnickingGiven the wealth ofnatural beauty on theisland, much of it nowgiven over to reserves,picnicking is a great pro-posal generally. There arealso plenty of grocerystores out of which youcan construct a memor-able pastoral repast onthe cheap.^Partyingon a BudgetNot all pubs and clubsare pricey. Some of thebest, in fact, do notimpose a cover charge orminimum fee. And mostpubs are so busy that noone will notice you nur-sing your brew all night.&IVA SalesTaxIf you buy anythingthat has a hefty sales taxtacked onto it, keep thereceipt, fill out the paper-work, then get a portionof it reimbursed at theairport. Another optionfor avoiding the 7% IVAis to have your purchasesshipped directly home,thus making it an out-of-country sale.*Make Lunch theMain MealThe daily lunch menu inmost restaurants cansave you a lot of money– as much as 75% of theà la carte cost (see menúdel dia, opposite). Portionsare often generous, too,so you can make thisyour major meal of theday. It’s also a great wayto savour the cuisine ofsome of the top restau-rants without forking outtheir top prices.(LaundromatsUnfortunately, regularlaundries and tintorias(dry-cleaners) are quiteexpensive, and hotel ser-vices even more exorbi-tant. However, somehotels (eg Villa Sirena,p142) offer clients theuse of their washers fora nominal fee. A fewlavanderías automaticascan be found in Palma,but don’t bother lookinganywhere else.)ReducedAdmissionsCoupons for reduced groupadmissions to variousattractions can help a lotwhen you’ve got a wholefamily to pay for. You’llfind them in magazines,weekly papers, fliers andbrochures. They are alsohanded out on the street,and tourist offices oftenhave stacks of them.DirectoryPackage deals• www.expedia.co.uk• www.thefirstresort.com• www.bargainholidays.comSelf Catering• www.toprural.com• www.selfcateringhols.comLeft Café sign, Port d’Alcúdia Centre Pub sign, Portocolom Right Daily lunch menu
  • 126. Streetsmart137If squiggly squid and other local favourites are not to your liking,you’ll find sufficient international eateries to turn to!Eating OutBoth lunch and dinnerhours tend to be late.Lunchtime is certainly noearlier than 1:30pm, andeven 2:30pm is perfectlynormal. Dinnertime canbe no earlier than 8:30pm,and sitting down at 11pmis not unheard of. A reser-vation is never a badidea, but don’t worryabout dressing up.@BreakfastThroughout most ofthe Mediterranean, break-fast is little more than awolfed-down coffee andpasta (pastry). As a visitor,however, you are ofcourse free to linger andadd yogurt, cheese, fruitetc to the meal. Foreign-run venues may offer afull English or Americanbreakfast, and many hotelscater to internationaltaste with a full buffet.£Tapas and RacionsTapas are a Spanishinstitution. What began inages past as a free sliceof ham laid across a drinkhas turned into smallportions of anything youcan think of, some of itvery creative. Locals eatthem as appetizers beforeheading off to dinner, buta few well-chosen tapascan easily make a fullmeal (see p79). Racionsare normal-sized portions.$Menú del DiaMany places offer amenú del dia (daily menu)at lunchtime, which isusually cheaper than à lacarte prices. You get alimited choice of a firstcourse (typically soup orsalad) and second course(fish or meat, with sides)and dessert, with waterand wine included. Coffeeis usually extra, or offeredin place of dessert.%MeatsPork in all its guisesis the central meat in theMallorcan diet, with roastsuckling pig consideredthe crowning glory. Duck,rabbit, quail and othergame are more commonthan beef and veal. Goatand lamb feature onmany Mallorcan menus.^SeafoodThe waters aroundthe island were fishedout long ago, so fisher-men go further afield tohaul in the Mediterraneanbounty. A local favouriteis rape (monkfish), aswell as lobsters, crayfish,prawns and mussels.&Side Dishesand DessertsFavourite side dishesinclude asparagus, bothgreen and white, andmushrooms sautéed withgarlic, as well as whatevervegetables may be at theirseasonal best. Fresh fruitis always an option fordessert, along withalmond cake and almondice cream, but one of themost characteristic iscrema catalana, a kind ofcrème bruleé or custardwith a crispy, caramelizedsugar topping.*DrinksWine and beer arethe top choices, usuallyaccompanied by a smallbottle of mineral water,either still or sparkling.Note that the sparkling isvery fizzy indeed andtends to be salty. Sangriais prevalent on theisland, too, and you couldtry a cava (sparklingwhite wine) for specialoccasions. A goodaperitif choice is fino ormanzanilla (sherry), or ahost of mixed drinks,often involving rum.Finally, coffee can beeither café sol (espresso)or cortado (“cut” witheither cold or hot milk).Ask for it descafeinat ifyou don’t want the jolt.(Vegetarian andVegan OptionsTumbet, a local vegetablestew, features on manytraditional menus, buteven the vegetable soupsare usually enhanced witha bit of pork. One goodrecourse would be tohave the chef compose asalad for you, leaving outthe non-vegetarianingredients. Or head forone of the fine vegetarianrestaurants (see p93).)TippingTipping is not theabsolute necessity herethat it is in some countries.Nevertheless, it is custom-ary to leave about 10%of the total bill, or atleast to round the figureup – assuming you foundthe service satisfactory.Left Breakfast Centre Café sign Right Evening meal at a restaurant in PalmaDrinking and Eating Tips
  • 127. Streetsmart138Shopping TipsFor Mallorca’s best shopping places see pp70–71!Factory OutletsSeveral of thesebargain-hunters’ dreamsare sprinkled aroundthe island, mostly in theCentral Plain. Prominenton the list are Inca forleather goods, SantaMaria del Camí fortraditional textiles andManacor for artificialpearls(see p124 for allof the above). Gordiola,near Algaida, is good forglassware (see p123).@MarketsTraditional marketsabound on Mallorca. Everyday of the week, you’llfind at least a couple ofthem going on some-where. In Palma, there’salso a flea market,Rastrillo, every Saturdaymorning, 8am–2pm, onAvenida Gabriel Alomar IVillalonga. For Mallorca’sbest markets, see p71.£HagglingBargaining, especiallyif you buy more than oneof something, is perfectlyacceptable if you arebuying in local markets.In fact, most market stallholders will automaticallyround your final bill downwithout your even askingfor a deal. So feel free topractise your negotiatingskills to the fullest.$SalesTaxThe 7% IVA is auto-matically included inthe price of most goodsand services. However,establish in advance if itis included when you arebuying a more expensiveitem, as it may makequite a difference.%Hoursand HolidaysIn general, shops andother public institutionskeep old-fashioned Medi-terranean hours: theyclose for several hours forlunch and a siesta. Expectmost places to be open9am–1:30pm, 4–7pmMonday to Friday, thoughthere will be plenty ofvariation, such as closingat 2pm and opening upagain at 5pm for threehours. On Saturdays, mostsmaller shops are openmorning only. Chainstores, tourist places anddepartment stores willstay open all day and lateinto the evening. Publicand religious holidaysoccur throughout the yearand number about 15.^SalesPrice reductions arecommonplace throughoutthe year, the biggest beingin January and July. End-of-season sales areindicated by “rebaixes”signs in shop windows.&CraftsOlive-wood carving,lace-making, embroidery,weaving, basketry, potteryand glass-blowing are allgoing strong on the island.There are many direct out-lets and stores that carrya range of crafts; the bestof them are representedin the Around the Islandlistings in this guide.*PeddlersInevitably, you’ll seeblankets laid out on thepavements with all sortsof merchandise: clothing,African sculpture, hippieaccessories…whateversells. Each town has itsown area where suchentrepreneurs displaytheir wares, much of it atridiculously low pricescompared to the shops.But caveat emptor –check the goods carefullyand look out for signs ofshoddiness! All may notbe what it first appears.(Foreign BooksPalma has severalbookshops that carryliterature of all sorts inforeign languages –we’ve listed one thatspecializes in secondhandbooks and has loads ofgreat holiday reads (seep91). Travel books aboutMallorca in all languagesare readily available justabout everywhere, andbooklets about specificsights are usually for salein gifts shops.)Shippingand CustomsMost reputable shopswill gladly see to shippingyour purchases home –for a fee, of course. Butyou can do it yourselfvia the Spanish postalservice or an internationalcourier such as DHL orUPS. You will have tocheck if the merchandiseyou intend sending backincurs import duty inyour home country.Left Ceramics shop, Sóller Right Deli, Palma Right Spicy peppers and melons for sale
  • 128. Streetsmart139!Area OptionsThis really rather smallisland offers a tremendousrange of climes and ter-rains, from sophisticatedcity life to nearly alpinemountains, and from lushsubtropical beaches toremote and wild plains.If you have the time,sample the diversity.@DeterminingNeedsIts worth thinking aboutwhat you require of youraccommodation. A con-ventional hotel room withprivate bath and balcony,possibly with mealsincluded in the price? Orwould a self-cateringapartment be moresuitable, especially if youare travelling in a groupor with family? Do youplan to stay in one areaor do you want to seemany of the island’ssights? If the latter, youmay want to considerrenting a car.£Choosing theBest LocationWhere do you want tobase your stay? In one ofthe bustling areas, asmaller village or a remotelocation? Such optionsexist by the sea, up inthe mountains or onprivate fincas (ranches),either working farms orthose that have beentransformed into resorts.$PriceThe cost of accom-modation varies widely.You don’t have to spenda great deal to find yourdesired location, but ifyou want to add luxuriesand superb cuisine toyour locale, there are farmore costly choices too.%Making aReservationIf you plan to visit in thewarm months or duringholidays, make reserva-tions as far in advance aspossible. The good-valueaccommodation fills upquickly, and even high-end gems can be bookedsolid in July and August.Confirm exact dates andtype of accommodationwith hotel managementvia email or fax.^Finding a Hotelon the SpotUnless you want to spendhours casting about for aroom, and possibly notfinding anything in yourprice-range, this is notrecommended, except inlow season. Even then,bear in mind that manyestablishments close inwinter. Also rememberthat there are no officialtourist agencies thathandle reservations, soyour search may involvelots of footwork.&TippingAs elsewhere inEurope, tipping is notabsolutely necessary.Workers are paid livingwages and should notdepend on tips. However,a few coins for servicesrendered by the hotelstaff are never amiss. Youcan tip porters and bell-boys on the spot, andleave something for themaid in your room – or ageneral tip for all staff atthe check-out desk.*Hidden ExtrasA tax of 7% may ormay not be included inthe quoted price of yourroom; it is always best toask or you could end uppaying more than youexpected. Parking, phoneuse and breakfast may ormay not be charged asextra; determine what youare liable for in advance.(Travelling withChildrenMallorca is well set upfor family travel. Withvery few exceptions,children are more thanwelcome at hotels andresorts, and those undercertain ages may evenstay free. Many hotelshave a full schedule ofspecial events andactivities for kids, oftenat no extra charge. (Seealso p134.))LanguageWith many decadesof international tourismbehind them, mostMallorcans are by nowpolyglots, and are likelyto manage very well inEnglish as well as otherlanguages. However, it’sa good idea to learn alittle of the local lingo,Mallorquí (a dialect ofCatalan) and Spanish, atleast for getting aroundand pleasantries.Left Pollença hotels Right Bendinat resort hotelsAccommodation Tips
  • 129. Streetsmart140Historic Lodgings$Gran Hotel SonNet, PuigpunyentSet in a mountain-ringedvalley, this 17th-centurypalace is filled with price-less antiques. The beauti-fully tended groundsfeature a large pool, gymand tennis courts. Eachroom has a unique charac-ter. d Map B3 • CastilloSon Net, 971 147000• www.sonnet.es • Limiteddis acc • €€€€€%Convent de laMissío, PalmaA 17th century monasteryhas been sumptuouslyconverted into a stylishboutique hotel. Minimalistfurnishings in cool shadesof white complementthe historic setting. Theformer refectory is nowan elegant restaurant.d Map N2 • C/de la Missío,7 • 971 227347 • www.conventdelamissio.com• Limited dis acc • €€€€€^El Guia, SóllerModest old buildingwith a thick atmosphereof yesteryear. A diningroom hung with crystalchandeliers forms a wingof the ground floor. Roomsare basic, though. d MapC2 • C/Castanyer, 2 • 971630227 • www.sollernet.com/elguia • No dis acc • €€&Hotel Juma,PollençaOn Pollença’s centralsquare, this Modernistahotel is filled withantiques. Many roomsoverlook the square, somehave four-poster beds.!Palacio Ca SaGalesa, PalmaOne of Mallorca’s mostlavish hotels, set in a 16th-century palace behindthe Cathedral. Sumptuousperiod antiques and archi-tectural features abound,including stained-glassbathrooms and hugeJacuzzis in some suites.d C/Miramar, 8 • 971715400 • www.palaciocasagalesa.com • Limiteddis acc • €€€€€@San Lorenzo,PalmaThis 17th-century manorhouse in the medievalquarter of Palma hasbeen restored with care,preserving its Mallorcancharacter while providingevery creature comfort.Wrought iron, beamedceilings, stone and tileaccents create an elegantsetting. You’ll forget you’rein the middle of a city.d C/ Sant Llorenç, 14• 971 728200 • www.hotelsanlorenzo.com• Limited dis acc • €€€£Hotel Born, PalmaThe 16th-centurypalace of the Marquis ofFerrandell has a classicMallorcan courtyardentrance with palmtrees, marble floors andIonic columns. Orientalcarpets and chandeliersare among other touches.Rooms are simple butcomfortable and featureautonomous air condition-ing. d C/ Sant Jaume, 3• 971 712942 • www.hotelborn.com • No dis acc • €€d Map E1 • Plaça Major, 9• 971 535002 • www.hoteljuma.com • No dis acc • €€€*Es Convent,AlcúdiaStone walls and wood-beamed ceilings set offrooms with minimalistmodern furnishings andinteresting contemporaryartwork. The restaurantfeatures excellentMediterranean-fusioncuisine. d Map F2• C/Progrés, 6 • 971 548716• www.esconvent.com• Closed 1 Jan–15 Feb• Limited dis acc • €€€€(Sa Plaça, PetraThere’s a timelessfeel to the elegant rooms:rough medieval wallswith elaborate antiquesand smooth Post-Moderntouches. The effect iscomfortable and original,accented by indirect light-ing and lots of space. Theserene restaurant is oneof Mallorca’s best (seep125). d Map F4 • PlaçaRamon Llull, 4 • 971 561646• www.saplaca.com• Limited dis acc • €€€)Leon de Sineu,SineuBehind the rather starkwalls of this 500-year-oldbuilding, you’ll find adelightful garden andspacious rooms withantiques and moderncomforts. The area is greatfor discovering out-of-the-way places. d Map E3 •C/Bous, 129 • 971 520211 •www.hotel-leondesineu.com• No dis acc • €€€Left Hotel Born, Palma Right San Lorenzo, PalmaNote: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditcards, and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning
  • 130. Streetsmart141Tramuntana. Rough stoneand stucco walls set offrich antiques and tap-estries. d Map E2• Campanet • 971 877176• www.monnaber.com• Dis acc • €€€%Illa d’Or, Port dePollençaQuiet and greenery reignat this 1920s pile by thewater. Take a dip from theprivate beach or simplysip a drink and take inthe magnificent views.d Map E1 • Passeig Colón,265 • 971 865100 • www.hoposa.es • €€€^Hotel Formentor,nr Port de PollençaIt’s the island’s first andgrandest resort, and thelist of stellar guests is likea Who’s Who of the 20thcentury: Churchill, theWindsors, Charlie Chaplin,Princess Grace, PlacidoDomingo, the Dalai Lama….The pastoral perfection,the pristine private beach,the amazing gardens – alladd up to an unforgettableexperience (see also pp29,35 & 105). d Map E1• 971 899101 • www.hotelformentor.net • €€€€€&La ReservaRotana, ManacorA meditative swing abovethe pool is reason enoughto come. The rooms arehuge, the service is enthu-siastic, and the groundsinclude a golf course.d Map F4 • Camí deS’Avall, km 3 • 971 845685• www.reservarotana.com• Limited dis acc • €€€€€!Villa Italia, Portd’AndratxA gracious Italianatestructure from the 1920s,with luxury suites orannex rooms. The rest-aurant is fabulous (seep100). d Map A4 • Caminode San Carlos, 13 • 971 674011 • www.hotelvillaitalia.com • No dis acc • €€€€€@Hotel Es Port,Port de SóllerA historic house and towerset in grounds repletewith a spa, terraces,pools, tennis courts andfountains. Some roomsare in the modern annex,others are in the gardens,but the most atmosphericare in the old house. dMap C2 • C/Antonio Montis• 971 631650 • www.hotelesport. com • No dis acc • €€£Read’s, SantaMaria del CamíWhere else does atrompe-l’oeil lion gazeon you affectionately asyou enjoy your Jacuzzi?Elegant yet unostenta-tious, this is Mallorcanresort living at its finest,where the staff take agenuine interest in yourcomfort. Its restaurantis also one Mallorca’sbest (see pp83 & 125).d Map D3 • Ca’n Morgues• 971 140261 • www.readshotel.com • Limiteddis acc • €€€€€$Hotel RuralMonnaber NouAn old manor houseamid age-old groves atthe foot of the Serra de*El Vistamar,PortocolomA fine complex of stylishmodern buildings, fourpools, various terraces,tennis courts, mini-golf,beauty centre, Turkishbath, gym, sauna andmassage salon. Thereare entertainment pro-grammes, and personaltherapists on hand.d Map G5 • Hnos. Pinzón• 971 825101 • www.olahotels.com • Dis acc • €€€(Hotel Rural SaBassa Rotja,PorreresThe pace of life slowswithin this remote, vine-clad mansion, dating fromthe 13th century. Guestrooms are invitingly deco-rated in warm tones andluxurious fabrics. All theusual resort facilities areincluded. d Map E4 • FincaSon Orell, Camino Sa Pedrera• 971 168225 • www.sabassarotja.com • Limiteddis acc • €€€€)Tres Playas, Col-ònia de Sant JordiTerrace after terracedescends to the sea,punctuated with beautifulgardens and pools alongthe way. Many activitiesare on offer, includingaqua classes, water poloand tennis. All of thespacious rooms have seaviews and balconies, andsome of Mallorca’s finestbeaches are nearby.There are also bars, finerestaurants and a beautysalon. d Map E6 • 971655151 • €€€€Resort HotelsHotel FormentorNote: Mallorca is primarily a summer destination and many estab-lishments close for a few months in winter (usually Nov–Mar)€ under €50€€ €50–€100€€€ €100–€150€€€€ €150–€200€€€€€ over €200Price CategoriesFor a standard,double room pernight (with breakfastif included), taxesand extra charges.
  • 131. Streetsmart142High-Rise HotelsNote: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditcards, and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning!HM Jaume III,PalmaThis modern businesshotel is well locatedon Palma’s swankiestshopping street. Many ofthe spacious rooms enjoyviews of the canal, and allhave sizeable balconies.Spa and good weekenddeals. d Passeig Mallorca,14 • 971 725943 • €€€@Coronado,Peguera BayWith its perfect locationat the end of the curvingcove and its more or lessexclusive beach, this hoteloffers just about every-thing for a quiet holiday.Colour schemes reflectthe setting: sky blue, palegreen and gold, enhancedwith graceful Indonesianmotifs. d Map B4 • CalaFornells • 971 686800• www.hotel coronado.com• Limited dis acc • €€€£Eden & Eden Park,Port de SóllerTwo properties on thesame street near thebeach. Both have largepools and garden terraces,but the Eden Park is a bitmore lush. Rooms on theupper floors have viewsof the port and mountains.Very popular with families.d Map C2 • Passeig EsTravés, 26 • 971 631600• www.hoteleden.com • €€$Hotel Don Pedro,Cala Sant VicençA practical stepped designgives every balcony maxi-mum sun and unobstruc-ted space at this modernhotel that dominates oneof Mallorca’s best coves.Although busy, the beachis quite easygoing, andthere’s a good hotel pool,too. d Map E1 • 971530050 • www.ho telesglobales.com • €€%Hotel Simar, CalaSant VicençA typical high-rise hasbeen softened enoughwith foliage and treesso that it has a certaincharm. Every room hasan ample balcony, andthere’s a good pool anddecent restaurant, withhalf- or full-board available.d Map E1 • 971 530300• www.hotelesglobales.com• €€€^Molins, CalaSant VicençLarge, quasi-resort hoteljust steps away from abroad beach with purewaters. The decor is low-key and traditional; eachroom has its own balconywith views. Sometimesthere’s live music anddancing in the evenings.d Map E1 • 971 530200www.grupotel.com • €€€€&Hotel Daina, Portde PollençaThe most striking featureof this starkly modernestablishment is the pooldeck extending over thebay. All rooms have viewsof either the sea or moun-tains. Lots of greenerycreates an inviting atmos-phere. d Map E1 • C/AtilioBoveri, 2 • 971 866127• www.hoposa.es • €€€*THB Felip Hotel,PortocristoUnpretentious high-riseoverlooking the port andcentral plaza, where livemusic is performed onsummer evenings. Themain rooms are hand-some in a warm, clubbyway, and the rooms arecosy. d Map G4 • Burdils,41 • 971 820750 • www.thbhotels.com • €€€(Villa Sirena,Cala FigueraIts wonderful positionabove the rocks at theend of the port givesthis unpretentious struc-ture a charmingly pictur-esque quality. Wraparoundterraces overlook theentire port, and all ofthe mid-sized roomshave balconies, mostwith views. The aestheticincorporates glass-blockdesign with etched-glassdecorations on the lobbydoors. d Map F6 • C/Virgendel Carmen, 37 • 971645303 • €€)Marqués delPalmer, ColòniaSant JordiSet on its own crescentof sugary beach, withabsolutely nothing elsearound. There’s also alarge pool built out on adeck over the sea. Therooms are smallish, butmost have sea views.Very popular with families,with lots of activities onoffer for kids. Guests aremostly German. d MapE6 • C/Plaça Molí de saSal • 971 655100 • €€Left Molins Right Hotel Daina
  • 132. Streetsmart143!Es Molí, DeiàThe eagle’s retreatpar excellence. Roomsare traditional and comfort-able (those in the annexare cheaper), and there isuse of a pool, tennis courtand private beach. d MapC2 • Ctra. Valldemossa-Deià• 971 639000 • www.esmoli.com • Limited disacc • €€€€@La Residenca, DeiàThe huge 18th-centurymanor house dominatesthe entire Deià valley, ris-ing high above the roadand affording unparalleledviews of the sea andencircling Tramuntanamountains. Very popularwith the rich and famous,who love to be pamperedhere in perfect privacy.d Map C2 • Son Canals s/n• 971 639011 • www.hotel-laresidencia.com • Limiteddis acc • €€€€€£Costa d’Or, DeiàA quaint cluster ofrough stone buildings setagainst verdant rockypromontories, this qualityhotel provides simple yetcomfortable accommo-dation. Features includea lovely pine grove,abundant gardens, apool, tennis court andminigolf. d Map C2• Lluc-Alcari • 971 639025• Apr–Oct • www.hoposa.es• Limited dis acc • €€$Ca’s Xorc, SóllerLocated above theSóller Valley, eye-to-eyewith the Serra deTramuntana, this elegantcountry house offers amajestic pool and breath-taking views. Originalartwork and sumptuousMoroccan-style touchescreate a sense of pureluxury. It also has one ofthe best restaurants inthe area (see p82). d MapC2 • Carretera Sóller-Deiá,km 56.1 • 971 638280• www.casxorc.com• Limited dis acc • €€€%Can’Aí, SóllerThe shady orangegroves and small canalssurrounding this ancientmanor house date backto Arab times. Theincomparable setting, ina silent valley ringed withmountains, provides allthe serenity guests seek.Charming, unique rooms.d Map C2 • Camí de sonSales, 50, Sóller • 971 632494 • www.canai.com• Limited dis acc • €€€^C’an Reus,FornalutxRustic yet elegant, filledwith a mix of plain furni-ture and period antiques.There’s a simple pool inthe garden, and stunningviews of the precipitousvalley and mountains.d Map C2 • C/l’Auba, 26,Fornalutx • 971 631174• www.canreushotel.com• No dis acc • €€€&Ca’n Verdera,FornalutxSophia Loren has stayedin this very chic andmodern remodelling of ahuge old house. d Map D2• C/des Toros, 1 • 971638203 • www.canverdera.com • Limited dis acc • €€€€*Can Furiós PetitHotel, BiribonaA delightful 16th-centuryvilla has been transformedinto a mountain eyriewith gardens, terraces,shaded patios and aninviting pool. Rooms arerichly decorated, severalwith antique canopybeds, and the restaurantis excellent. d Map E2• Camí Vell Binibona, 11,Caimari • 971 515751• www.can-furios.com• Limited dis acc • €€€(Villa Hermosa, Fel-anitx–PortocolomA wonderful fusion ofmodern luxury and tradi-tional Mallorcan style, withwrought iron, antiquesand oriental rugs. Allrooms have magnificentviews, and the facilitiesare that of a full resort.d Map F5 • Ctra. P.M. 401,km. 6 • 971 824960 • www.hotel-villahermosa.com• Limited dis acc • €€€€€)Finca Son Sama,Llucmajor–PorreresThe manor house, built in1531, retains its ranchofeel. Objects from cent-uries ago punctuate thegardens, and the secludedsetting is one of greatbeauty. Rooms and bathsare spacious, there’s agreat restaurant, EsMirador (see p125), anda riding school attached.d Map D5 • Km 3.5 • 971120959 • www.sonsama.com • Limited dis acc • €€La ResidencaMountain Retreats€ under €50€€ €50–€100€€€ €100–€150€€€€ €150–€200€€€€€ over €200Price CategoriesFor a standard,double room pernight (with breakfastif included), taxesand extra charges.
  • 133. Streetsmart144Seaside Charmersgardens and perchedserenely on a cliff topoverlooking coves andturquoise waters. Roomsboast wooden beams,four-poster beds andcontemporary furnishings.d Map H3 • Ctra Arta-Canyamel, km 8 • 971816800 • www.cansimoneta.com • Dis acc •€€€€€%Hostal Bahia, Portde PollençaAppealing period buildingwith shutters and a sea-front patio, surrounded bygardens and pines. Theviews are excellent, andthe mood relaxed andfriendly. Rooms are gra-cious and spacious, manywith terraces, beamedceilings and interestingantiques here and there.d Map E1 • PasseigVoramar, 27 • 971 866562• www.hoposa.es • Limiteddis acc • €€^Miramar,Port de PollençaA stylish establishment,with beamed ceilings, aterrace with a sea view,and lush gardens. Its ele-gant patios are graced withantiques and ceramics, andthe rooms are quiet andcomfortable. d Map E1 •Passeig Anglada Camarassa,39 • 971 866400 • www.pollensanet.com/ miramar• Limited dis acc • €€€&Hotel Uyal, Portde PollençaVery charming, Spanish-style elegance right onthe beachfront. Arches!Hotel Petit, CalaFornellsHigh over the scenic bay,with panoramic views andseveral levels of terraceswith splashing fountains,this little gem offers all theamenities of a resort. Thedecor is a simple blendof traditional Spanish andMoroccan. There are fourswimming pools and asmall secluded beach andcove. d Map B4 • 971 685405 • www.petitcalafornells.com • Limited dis acc • €€€@Hotel Brisas, Portde SóllerSmall, unpretentious andatmospheric, this simpleestablishment is locatedat the quiet end of thewest side of the port.Recently renovated, therooms are plain, but allcome with their ownbalconies offeringsplendid views. d Map C2• Camino del Faro, 15 • 971631352 • No dis acc • €£Hotel CalaSant VicençPart of the prestigiousRelais et Chateaux group,this handsome hotel issurrounded by lush gar-dens. Classically elegantrooms offer every comfortand there is a superbrestaurant. d Map E1• C/Maressers, 2 • 971 530250 • www.hotelcala.com• Dis acc • €€€€€$Hotel CanSimoneta,CanyamelThis 150-year old finca issurrounded by fragrantand beams define thelovely rooms. d Map E1• Paseo Londres • 971865500 • www.hoposa.es• Limited dis acc • €€€*Hostal Nereida,PortopetroIt’s the only hotel intown! There’s a warmfamily feeling, a largegarden, big swimmingpool, children’s park,tennis and an excellentrestaurant. Rooms aresimple, all with balcony,some with views.d Map F6 • C/PatronsMartina, 3 • 971 657223• www.hostalnereida.com• Limited dis acc • €€(Hotel Lemar,Colònia San JordiA palpable colonial feel,with rattan furniture andceiling fans. Many balcon-ies enjoy great views ofthe beach and turquoisesea. Mostly German.d Map E6 • C/Benanza,1• 971 655178 • Limiteddis acc • €€)Hostal Playa,Colònia Sant JordiAdorably old-fashionedand just a little bit funky,this secret hideaway hasa wonderful patio-terraceon a practically privatebeach, composed of sandand large flat rocks. Oldceramics decorate everyroom, enhancing thewhite-washed, red-tiledcharacter of the place.d Map E6 • C/Major, 25• 971 655256 • www.restauranteplaya.com• No dis acc • €€Left Hostal Playa Right Hostal NereidaNote: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept creditcards, and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning
  • 134. Streetsmart145€ under €50€€ €50–€100€€€ €100–€150€€€€ €150–€200€€€€€ over €200Price CategoriesFor a standard,double room pernight (with breakfastif included), taxesand extra charges.$Ca’n Moragues,ArtáA small and exclusivehotel set in a refurbished18th-century manor housein the heart of Artá. Everycomfort has been seen toin the unique combinationof antique and modernfurnishings. d Map G3 •C/Pou Nou, 12 • 971 829509• www.canmoragues. com• Limited dis acc • €€€%Son Gener, SonSeveraExquisite 18th-centurycountry estate with charmand personalized service.The cooking is top-notch,and all of the sleek roomsare junior suites. There’sa patio, pool, terraces andspa. d Map G3 • Ctra.Vieja Son Servera-Artà,km 3 • 971 183612 • www.songener.com • ClosedDec–mid-Jan • Limited disacc • €€€€€^Mayolet, ManacorAttached to theReserva Rotana, whosepool it shares, this oldfarmer’s stone house hasbeen updated for everycomfort. The rooms arelarge and rustic, and likea home-from-home.d Map F4 • Apart. Correos,69 • 971 845685 • www.mayolet.com • Limited disacc • €€€€&Sa Carrotja, SesSalinesThe 17th-century farm-house has been modern-ized without losing any ofits country charms, a placewhere you can sample!Son Esteve,AndratxDating back to 903, thispicturesque structurewas originally built by theMoors. Service is veryattentive, and the roomsare comfortable – all justminutes from the old townand port. The fee includesan abundant breakfast withhomemade yogurt andjams. d Map B4 • CamíCa’s Midals, 42 • 971235272 • www.sonesteve.com • Limited dis acc • €€€@Sa Pedrissa, DeiàSurrounded by ancientolive trees and blessedwith fabulous sea views,this 16th-century countryestate has been restoredto the standards of thebest hotels, withoutlosing its historic appeal.Dine on local cuisine inthe beautiful convertedolive press room. d MapC2 • Ctra. Valldemossa-Deià, km 64.5 • 971 639111• www.sapedrissa.com• Limited dis acc • €€€€€£Ca’s Curial, SóllerYou get a lot ofspace and luxury for theprice. There’s a rustic feeland antiques but alsoevery modern amenity,all set in a fragrant orangegrove just a few minutesfrom central Sóller. Theviews of the jagged,pine-covered mountainsare stunning, as you sitaround the pool on theshaded terrace. d Map C2• C/La Villalonga, 23 • 971633332 • www.cascurial.com• Limited dis acc • €€€local cuisine made fromthe proprietor’s ownorganic produce. A quiet,refined choice, but notreally suitable for children.d Map E6 • Sa Carrotja, 7• 971 649053 • www.sacarrotja.com • Limited dis acc(2 rooms) • €€€*Ses Rotes Velles,Campos–ColòniaSant JordiImmaculate lawns set offbeautiful flower gardens,a vibrant counterpoint tothe rich ochre of thebungalows. The food issome of the island’sbest. d Ctra. Campos-Colonia Sant Jordi, Km 8.7• 971 656159 • www.agroturismosesrotesvelles.com• Limited dis acc • €€€(Raïms, AlgaidaThe self cateringapartments are modern,but this country house haskept its old wine cellarsand stone floors. A senseof timelessness settlesover everything as youlaze by the pool. d MapD4 • C/Ribera, 24 • 971 665157 • www.finca.raims.com• Limited dis acc • €€€)SaTorre, SantaEugèniaThe 13th-century estateis surrounded by wheatfields, close to the island’sagricultural centre. Theold wine cellar has beenconverted into an invitingrestaurant. All rooms arespacious apartments. dMap D3 • C/ Alqueries, 70 •971 144011 • www.sa-torre.com • Limited dis acc • €€€Agroturismo (Farmhouses)Left Relaxing by the pool at Sa Pedrissa, Deià Right Raïms sign
  • 135. Streetsmart146Monasteries, Refuges and HostelsFor more about Mallorca’s religious sanctuaries and hermitagessee pp60–61!Hostal Oliver,Cala FigueraThis private hostal ispopular with youngbackpackers. Roomssleep from 1–4 peopleand all have en-suitefacilities and balconies.A quiet, family-run hostallocated in a beautifulcove. d Map F6• C/Bernareggi, 37 • 971645127 • www.hostaloliver.com • No dis acc• No credit cards • No aircon • €@Castell d’AlaróThe hostel is a 45-minute walk from thescenic castle (see p97).There are double andtriple rooms, a communalroom and snack bar, butfacilities are otherwisemodest: come preparedwith whatever you mightrequire. d Map D3 • Puigd’Alaró • 971 182112 • Nodis acc • No credit cards •No en-suite • No air con • €£RefugioTossalsVerds, LlosetaIt’s a one hour walk fromthe Clot d’Almendra to thisplace, which gives accessto the highest summitsof the range. The house,an old mountain construc-tion, has been modernizedwith an en-suite doubleroom and two rooms withbunks for 8 and 12 people.There is heating, andguests can cook theirown meals or eat at therestaurant. d Map D3• Finca Tossals Verds • 971182027 • No dis acc • Notall en-suite • No air con • €$Santuari de LlucIn this most famousof Mallorca’s retreats(see pp26–7), you’ll findconsiderable comfort andevery sort of facility,including outside tables,barbecue areas, bars andrestaurants, and campingpossibilities. The accom-modation is closer tohotel-style than most suchretreats on the island.d Map D2 • 971 871525• www.lluc.net • Limiteddis acc • No air con • €%Santuari del Puigde Maria, PollençaHigh on the Puig de Maria.There’s a kitchen with acoal fire, and a diningroom with a fireplace andrestaurant. Bathrooms arecommunal, and only oneof the showers has hotwater (see p60). d MapE1 • 971 184132 • No disacc • No credit cards • Noen-suite • No air con • €^Santuari de SonFe, AlcúdiaLocated in foothills amidcultivated fields and spruceand pine forests. It’sideal as a spiritual retreator a base for excursions.All rooms are double, andthere’s also a pool, tennisand even heating. d MapF2 • Ctra. Palma-Alcúdia,km 46 • 971 516186 • Nodis acc • No credit cards •No en-suite • No air con • €&Ermita de Bonany,PetraSet in a Special InterestNature Area. The fiverooms share communalshowers, a kitchen, diningroom and outside barbe-cue areas (bring your ownBBQ) with picnic tables.d Map F4 • Puig de Bonany• 971 826568 • No disacc • No en-suite • No aircon • €*Santuari de Monti-Sion, PorreresThe very simple amenitieshere are reminiscent ofthe asceticism of yester-year. The 16th-centurylecture hall is preserved,as are four Gothic pillarson the path that ascendsfrom the village to thesummit. Great views ofthe entire Central Plain.d Map E4 • Oratori deMonti-Sion • 971 647185• Closed Aug • No dis acc• No credit cards • No en-suite • No air con • €(Santuari de SantSalvador, FelanitxModest accommodationsand amenities include hotwater, a kitchen, diningroom, barbecue areas,picnic tables, and a barand restaurant (see p61).d Map F5 • Puig de SantSalvador • 971 827282• No dis acc • No creditcards • No air con • €)Youth HostelsThere are two officialhostels in barracks-likebuildings. Book in advance,as they get full quickly. dAlbergue Platja de Palma,C/Costa Brava, 13, outsidePalma (closed Nov–Feb) •Albergue de la Victòria, Camìdel Pinar, north of Alcúdia• 902 111188 (for both) • €Left Castell d’Alaró, near hostel Right Santuari de Sant Salvador
  • 136. Streetsmart147Price categories for self-catering apartments apply to a typicalunit per night – check to see how many people the unit sleeps!ApartamentosCala Vinyes,Palma BayStepped, Meso-Americanstyle, with red tile roofsand ample balconies, thiscomplex of hotel roomsand apartments is builton a rocky prominenceat one end of the Bay ofPalma. Close to beach.d Map Q3 • C/Las Sirenas,17, Calvía • 971 131100• www.hotelesglobales.com• Limited dis acc • €€€€@Aldea Cala Forn-ells I, Peguera BayAttractive bungalowsscattered along a hillside,near shops and otherservices, all overlookingthe gorgeous bay. There’sa large pool for guests’use, and nearby you’llfind tennis, horse ridingand every water sport.All rentals are one-bedroom, one bath, andsleep up to four persons.d Map B4 • Ctra CalaFornells (Peguera) • 971686920 • www.aldeai.com• Limited dis acc • Not allwith air con • €€£Ca’s Curial, SóllerThis agroturismo/finca (farmhouse/ranch)in the heart of the beauti-ful Sóller Valley, has tworental properties with allfacilities, one that sleepssix, one for eight. A pool,patios and terraces arereserved for guests’ use.The area is excellent forwalking. d Map C2 • C/LaVillalonga, 23, Sóller • 971633332 • www.cascurial.comLimited dis acc • €€€€$Hotel Marina, Portde SóllerOn a palm-lined, pedes-trianized area, this simpleapartment-hotel enjoysgreat views, and a superbbeach is just outside thefront door. The decorfeatures terracotta tilefloors, and every roomhas good-sized balconies.d Map C2 • Paseo La Playa• 971 631461 • www.hotelmarinasoller.com • Limiteddis acc • €€%Hotel Generoso,Port de SóllerRight on the beach bythe picturesque Sóllertramline, with views ofthe port and mountainsfrom the upper floors.Rooms are small and sim-ple, but have balconiesand often marble floorsand walls. There’s a pool,solarium, bar and restau-rant. d Map C2 • CalleMarina, 4 • 971 631450• www.hotelgeneroso.com• Limited dis acc • €€^Finca Ca’n Sagra,PollençaLarge mountain chaletwith 1,000-year-old olivetrees, a pool, vast terracesand breathtaking views.You get an American-stylekitchen, a pool house withbathroom, barbecue, cen-tral heating, golf and shopsnearby, and the wholeplace is furnished withgenuine antiques. d MapE1 • Tel/fax 971 534444• www.als-mallorca.com• Limited dis acc • Not allwith air con • €€€€€ (minone-week stay)&ApartamentosSimar, PollençaStandard high-rise apart-ment-hotel on one of themost charming andpristine cove beaches onthe island. All apartmentshave roomy balconies,many with stunningviews. d Map E1 • C/Temporal s/n • 971 530300• www.hotelesglobales.comLimited dis acc • €€€*Coco’s House,Port de PollençaThese apartments arelocated amid pines on apicturesque curve of thebay, near shops andscintillating nightlife.d Map E1 • C/Pescador,44 • 971 866677• www.cocoshouse.co.uk• No dis acc • €€(ApartamentosBouganvilla, Zonade Sa ComaLow-rise bungalows on alimpid cove. The design istraditional Spanish, witharches, balconies andterraces. d Map G4• C/Margautas, 21 • 971 811122 • www.hotelesglobales.com • Limited dis acc • €€€)Es Pla de Llodrà,ManacorA beautifully renovatedfinca that has beenconverted into threeapartments, sleepingbetween two and four.There is an outdoor poolset in extensive gardens.d Map F4 • Ctra Manacor–Felanitx km 4.5 • 610 634697 • www.espladellodra.com • Limited dis acc • €€Apartamentos SimarSelf-Catering Apartments€ under €50€€ €50–€100€€€ €100–€150€€€€ €150–€200€€€€€ over €200Price CategoriesFor a standard,double room pernight (with breakfastif included), taxesand extra charges.
  • 137. Page numbers in boldtype refer to main entries.AAbaco, Palma 80, 92Abraxa, Palma 72accommodation tips139Acuàrio de Mallorca 33agroturismo seefarmhousesair travel 129Alaró 49, 50Alcúdia 7, 30–31, 105Aldea Cala Fornells I,Palma Bay 147Algaida 51ancient places 54–5Andratx 48, 97, 98Anglada-Camarasa,Hermen 89ApartamentosBouganvilla, Zona deSa Coma 147Apartamentos CalaVinyes, Palma Bay 147Apartamentos Simar,Pollença 147Apoteket Bar, Portd’Alcúdia 109Aquacity 68Aquamarine, Pollença105, 107Aquapark 68Aquila, L’ (Palma) 89, 90Aramis, Palma 93Arcada, L’ (Cala Figuera)118Archduke’s mulepath(walk) 48architecture of Mallora 11Aries Hotel, Club &Sauna, Palma 76Arrels, Port de Pollença107art galleries seemuseums and artgalleriesArt-Metall, Manacor 124Artà 116Artigast, Llorenç14, 15Asador Tierra Aranda,Palma 93ATMs 133Autèntic Mallorca,Portchristo 115, 117Auto-Safari Park 69Avinguda Jaume III,Palma 70BBacon, Francis 21Balada del Agua del Mar,La (Port de Pollença)108banking 133Banyalbufar 97, 98Banys Árabs, Palma 10,54, 87Banys Árabs Gardens,Palma 64Bar Albatross, Port deSóller 101Bar Bellavista, Portd’Andratx 99Bar Bosch, Palma 89, 92Bar Ca’n Tomeu, Petra124Bar Central, Palma 89, 92Bar Claridge, Port deSóller 101Bar Cloud, Port d’Alcúdia109Bar Cubano, Andratx 99Bar Deportivo, Fornalutx101Bar Els Tamarells,Portocolom 115, 119Bar Espanya, Sóller 101Bar Mallorca, Pollença 107Bar Marítimo, CalaRajada 117Bar Status, Palma 77Bar Vicente – LosRufianes, Port de Sóller99Barceló, Miquel 8, 62Bardolet, Josep Coll 63Barracuda, Port d’Andratx73, 101Barranc de Biniaraix 36barsNorth Coast 109Palma 92Southeast Coast 119Southwest Coast 101Top 10 80–81Basilica de SantFrancesc, Palma 58, 88Bayeu, Fray 18beachesBosque, El (Palma) 77Cala Barques 42, 103Cala Blava, Palma 77Cala Bona 43Cala Deià 40Cala Figuera 29, 45,115Cala Fornells 40Cala es Gulló 77Cala Guyá 41Cala Mezquida 41Cala Millor 43Cala Molins 42, 103Cala d’Or 43, 116Cala Sant Vicenç 42,104Cala Santanyí 114Cala Torta 41Cala Tuent 42, 103Platja de Canyamel 41Platja y Dique delOeste, Palma 77Platja de Formentor 29,43General Index148Index
  • 138. beaches (cont.)Platja El Mago 36, 77Platja de Muro 77Platja de Palma 41Platja es Trénc 43, 77,116Punta de N’Amer 77Beez-Neez Bar,Portocolom 73, 119Belisarius, Count 35Belle Café-Teatro, La(Port d’Alcúdia) 109Ben Amics Association,Palma 76Bendinat 44Bens d’Avall, Port deSóller 82, 100Biniaraix 98Binissalem 51, 121bird-watching 47Black Cat, Palma 77Blue Willi’s, Port deSóller 99boating 47, 129, 130Bodegnida del Medio, La(Cala Rajada) 119Bon Lloc, Palma 93books 138Bosque, El (Palma) 77Botanicactus 65Boveda, La (Palma) 82Brodats Mallorquins,Banyalbufar 99Bruixeries, Palma 77budget tips 136bullfighting 47, 121Bunyola 49, 98Burial of Count Orgaz,The(Picasso) 21buses 130CC’an Carlos, Palma 93C’an Cuarassa, Port dePollença 108C’an Mateu, Algaida 125C’an Reus, Fornalutx 143Ca N’Antuna, Fornalutx 82Ca N’Oleza, Palma 89, 90Ca’l Patró, Cala SantVicenç 108Ca’n Joan de S’aigo,Palma 92Ca’n Martina, Portopetro118Ca’n Moragues, Artà 145Ca’n Nadal, Andratz 99Ca’n Solleric, Palma 89Ca’n Torró Library,Alcúdia 31Ca’n Verdera, Fornalutx143Can Toni Moreno, Portdes Canonge 100Ca’s Curial, Sóller 145, 147Ca’s Xorc, Sóller 82, 143Caballito del Mar, Palma93Cadafel, Es (Sineu) 81,123, 124Café L’Algar, Port dePollença 107Café del Calvari, Pollença105, 107Café des Casal Solleric,Palma 92Café Lírico, Palma 92Café Lorca, Palma 76Café Parisien, Artà 119Café Prop del Mar, Portde Sóller 101Café Sa Font, Palma 92Café Sa Plaça, Lluc 26Café Sa Plaça, Santanyí81, 117cafésCentral Plain 124North Coast 107Palma 92Southeast Coast 117Southwest Coast 99Top 10 80–81Cala Barques 42, 103Cala Blava, Palma 77Cala Bona 43Cala Deià 40Cala Figuera 29, 45, 114,115Cala Fornells 40Cala es Gulló 77Cala Guyá 41Cala Mezquida 41Cala Millor 43Cala Molins 42, 103Cala d’Or 43, 116Cala Pi 45Cala Rajada 41, 116Cala Sant Vicenç 42, 104Cala Santanyí 114Cala Torta 41Cala Tuent 42, 103Calipso, Portocolom 119Camí dels Mistris delRosari, Lluc 27Camp de Mar 42Camper Factory Outlet,Inca 124camping 136Campins, Bishop 53Campo, El (Portopetro)115, 118Campos 116Can’Aí, Sóller 143Can Balaguer, Palma 70Can Furiós Petit Hotel,Biribona 143Can Rei, Palma 89, 90Can Vivot, Palma 90Candela, Palma 93Canyar, Es (Alcúdia) 108Cap de Cala FigueraPeninsula 36Cap de Capdepera 37Cap de Formentor 29Cap des Pinar 106Capdepera 51. 113Capocorb Vell 55, 115car hire 130Carnatge, Es (Palma) 77Carthusian Monastery,Valldemossa 18–19, 60Index149
  • 139. Carreró, Es (Portochristo)73, 119Casa Bonet, Palma 91Casas Velles, Formentor29Castell d’Alaró 54, 56, 97,146Castell de Bellver 6,12–13, 56, 89Castell de Cabrera 57Castell de Capdepera 57Castell del Rei 54, 56,106Castell de Santueri 116castles and towers 56–7Celler C’an Amer, Inca125Celler Es Grops, Sineu 125Celler Sa Premsa, Palma93Central Plain 120–25cafés and shops 124map 120places to eat 125Ceramiques Estellencs,Estellencs 99Ceramiques Monti-Sion,Pollença 107Chivas, Port de Pollença73, 109Chopin, Frédéric 7, 18,19, 60, 95churches 58–9Basilica de SantFrancesc, Palma 58, 88Cova de la Mare deDéu, Portals Vells 58Església de SantaEulàlia, Palma 58, 89,90Nostra Senyora de laEsperança, Capdepera59Nostra Senyora delsÁngels, Pollença 58,105Nostra Senyora delschurches (cont.)Ángels, Sineu 59Oratori de Montesió,Porreres 59Oratori de Sant Ana,Alcúdia 31Sa Seu, Palma 6, 8–11,54, 58, 87, 89Sant Bartomeu, Sóller96Sant Bartomeu,Valldemossa 19Sant Bernat, Petra 59Sant Jaume, Alcúdia 31Sant Joan Baptista,Muro 57, 121Santuari de la Victòria,Alcúdia 59, 106climate 128Coco’s House, Port dePollença 147Codfather, Portochristo 117Colmado SantoDomingo, Palma 91Colònia de Sant Jordi 43communications 133condoms 131consulates seeembassies andconsulatesConvent de la Missió,Palma 140Convent, Es (Alcúdia) 30,140convents seemonasteries andconventsCórdoba, Emir of 35Coronado, Palma Bay 142Corte Inglés, El (Palma)70Costa Nord deValldemossa 18, 21, 97Costa d’Or, Deià 143Cova Blava 45coves and caves 44–5,69Coves d’Artà 45, 113Coves de Campanet 106Coves del Drac 7, 32–3,45, 114Coves de Gènova 44Coves d’es Hams 45, 113crafts 138credit cards 133crime 131cruises 129culinary highlights 78–9cultural and ecologicalattractions 21customs 138cycling 46, 130DDakota Tex Mex, Port dePollença 108Dalí, Salvador 62, 90Dama Blava (Ramis) 20dancing 17Deià 50, 96, 97Despuig, Cardinal 53, 95Diehl, Adán 35, 106disabled travellers 131,135Disco Mond-Bar, CalaFiguera 119Discoteca Altamar, Portde Sóller 101diving 46doctors 131Douglas, Michael 18, 21,97Dragonera IslandTower 56drinking tips 137driving 48–9, 129, 130,132Drunken Duck, Portd’Alcúdia 109Dylan, Palma 76Eecological tourism seecultural and ecologicalattractions150Index
  • 140. Eden and Eden Park,Port de Sóller 142Els Calderers 122embassies andconsulates 128emergency numbers 131entertainment venuesNorth Coast 109Southeast Coast 119Southwest Coast 101Top 10 gay and lesbianvenues in Palma 76–7Top 10 nightclubs 72–3Ermita de Betlé 60Ermita de Bonany, Petra146Ermita de NostraSenyora de Bonany 61Ermita de NostraSenyora del Puig,Pollença 60, 104Ermita de Sant Llorenç,Cala Tuent 60Ermita de Sant Miquel,Montuïri 61, 123Ermita de la Victòria seeSantuari de la VictòriaErnst, Max 21Es Baluard, Museu d’ArtModern i Contemporani90Es Canto, Port de Sóller101Es Pla de Llodrà,Manacor 147Estellencs 50, 97, 98Ffactory outlets 138fakes and forgeries 132families 68–9, 134, 139farmhouses 145Felanitx 116Ferrà, Bartomeu 20ferry travel 129festivals 52–3Fet a Mà, Palma 91Figueral Nou, Es(Montuïri) 125Finca Ca’n Sagra,Pollença 147Finca Son Sama,Llucmajor–Porreres 143Fiol, Llibres (Palma) 91fishing 47Fonda, La (Pollença) 83, 105food 78–9, 137food safety 132Forn des Teatre, Palma 89Fornalutx 50, 97Fundació Pilar i JoanMiró, Cala Major 6,16–17, 62, 89Fuster, Joan 20fútbol 47GGaleries Vicenç, Pollença107Garito Café, Palma 80, 101Gaudí, Antonio 8, 9, 53gay and lesbian venues76–7Giacometti, Alberto 21golf 47Gordiola Glassworks,Baixos 71, 123, 124Gorg Blau 36, 103Gran Café 1919, Portd’Alcúdia 107Gran Café 1919, Port dePollença 81Gran Casino Mallorca,Calvia 72, 101Gran Hotel Son Net,Puigpunyent 140Gran Tortuga, La(Peguera) 100Grand Café Cappuccino,Palma 80Granja Restaurant 16Grau, Es (CarreteraAndratx–Estellencs)80, 97Graves, Robert 35, 50, 96Gria, El (Port de Sóller) 100Gris, Juan 62, 90Guia, El (Sóller) 140HHannibal 35health 131Hermitage, L’ (Orient) 83Hidropark 69hiking 46, 48–9, 130history 34–5HM Jaume III, Palma 142Horrach Moya, Palma 91hospitals 131Hostal Bahia, Port dePollença 144Hostal Nereida,Portopetro 144Hostal Oliver, CalaFiguera 146Hostal Playa, Colònia deSant Jordi 115, 144hostels 146Hotel Born, Palma 140Hotel Brisas, Port deSóller 144Hotel Cala Sant Vincenç,Cala Sant Vincenç 144Hotel Can Simoneta,Canyamel 144Hotel Daina, Port dePollença 142Hotel Don Pedro, CalaSan Vicenç 142Hotel Formentor 29, 106,141Hotel Generoso, Port deSóller 147Hotel Juma, Pollença 140Hotel Lemar 144Hotel Marina, Port deSóller 147Hotel Petit, Cala Fornells144Hotel Es Port, Port deSóller 141151Index
  • 141. Hotel Rural Sa BassaRotja, Porreres 141Hotel Rural MonnaberNou 141Hotel Simar, Cala SantVicenç 142Hotel Uyal, Port dePollença 144hotelsaccommodation tips 139agroturismo(farmhouses) 145high-rise hotels 142historic lodgings 140mountain retreats 143resort hotels 141seaside charmers 144houses, traditional 11IIlla de Cabrera 115Illa Dragonera 36, 98Illa d’Or, Port de Pollença141Illetes 44Imaginarium, Palma 91Inca 70, 121Inquisition, Spanish 17, 53insurance 128Internet information 128,133IVA see sales taxJJardí Botànic 65Jardines de Sa Faixina,Palma 64Jardineria Pedro, Sóller 99Jardins d’Alfàbia 7, 24–5,54, 65, 95Jardins Casa March 65Jaume I, King 8, 19, 35,42, 113Jaume II, King 19, 35, 51Jones, Catherine Zeta 21José L. Ferrer,Binissalem 124Journey to the Centre ofthe Earth (Verne) 113Juan Carlos I, King 10, 88Jumaica 69Junyer, Sebastià 20KKnights Templar 53Koldo Royo, Palma 93Kollflex, Selva 124Komudus, Portochristo117LL@Red Cyber Café,Palma 92Lake Martel 33language 128, 139phrase book 158–160Leon de Sineu, Sineu125, 140Lighthouse snack bar,Formentor 28Lloseta 121Lluc 53Lluc-Alcari 97Llull, Ramon 35, 53, 61,88Loewe, Palma 91Lubina, La (Palma) 8Luna de Miel, Port dePollença 108Mmail 133Manacor 71, 122manners 132March, Joan 62, 65Marcus, Palma 76Marianisa, Port d’Andratx99Marineland 68markets 71, 138Marqués del Palmer,Colònia Sant Jordi 142Martel, Edouard 32, 113Masson, André 21Matta, Robert 21Mayolet, Manacor 145Meifrén, Eliseo 20Menta, Port d’Alcúdia 73,109Mestizo, Port d’Alcúdia 81Milligan’s, Port dePollença 109Mirador, Es(Llucmajor–Porreres)125Mirador de Mal Pas 28,106Mirador de Ricardo Roca36Mirador de ses Ànimes56, 97, 98Mirador de ses Barques106Miramar, Port d’Alcúdia 83Miramar, Port d’Andratx100Miramar, Port dePollença 144Miró, Joan 6, 16, 17, 20,62, 90see also FundacióPilar i Joan MiróMolí, Es, Deià 143Molí d’en Sopes,Portochristo–Manacor118Molí des Torrent, SantaMaria del Camí 125Molins, Cala Sant Vicenç142Mónaco, Port de Sóller81, 99monasteries andconvents 60–61, 146Monestir de NostraSenyora de Lluc 7,26–7, 60, 103, 146money 133Montaner, LluisDomenech i 88Montuïri 123152Index
  • 142. Moore, Henry 21Moreneta, La 27motorbikes 130mountain retreats 143Mural del Sol (Miró andArtigast) 15Muro 121museums and artgalleriesFundació Pilar i JoanMiró, Cala Major 6,16–17, 62, 89Museu d’Art EspanyolContemporani, Palma62, 89, 90Museu Diocesà, Palma62, 87Museu Etnològic,Muro 63, 121, 123Museu Gordiola 63Museu de la Jugueta,Sa Pobla 68, 121, 123Museu de Lluc 27, 63Museu de Mallorca,Palma 13, 62, 88Museu Monogràfic,Alcúdia 31, 63Museu Municipal dePollença 63, 105Museu Municipal deValldemossa 20–21, 63opening times 63Sa Seu Museum,Palma 9music, traditional 17NNavares, Paloma 15newspapers andmagazines 133Nicke’s Svensk Bar &Café, Palma 12, 92nightclubsNorth Coast 109Southeast Coast 119Southwest Coast 101Top 10 72–3North Coast 102–109cafés and shops107map 102nightclubs and bars 109places to eat 108N.P.I Pub, Palma 77OOcean Bar, Port dePollença 109off-season bargains 136opening times 138Opio Bar, Palma 73Orient 49, 50, 98Ppackage holidays 129,136Palacio Ca Sa Galesa,Palma 89, 140Palau de l’Almudaina10–11, 54, 87, 89Palma 86–93cafés and bars 92map 86places to eat 93shops 91Palma Cathedral see SaSeuPalma’s walls (walk) 48Panaderia Pons, Colòniade Sant Jordi 117Parc de la Mar, Palma 64,90Parc Natural deMondragó 37, 114Parc Natural deS’Albufera 37, 105parks and gardens 64–5Parlament, Palma 8Passeig de la Rambla,Palma 70Passeig des Born, Palma89Paz, Manolo 15peaks, Top 10 49Peguera 42Pelinca, Inca 124Península de Formentor7, 28–9, 37, 105Pepe’s Bar, Cala SantVicenç 109Perlas Majorica, Manacor124Persepolis, Palma 91Pesquero, El (Palma) 92Petra 122, 123phones 133Physical, Cala Rajada 119Picasso, Pablo 21, 62, 90Pilón, El (Palma) 93Pla, Es 120–25Plaça Cort, Palma 90Plaça Weyler, Palma 88,89Platja de Canyamel 41Platja y Dique del Oeste,Palma 77Platja de Formentor 29,43Platja El Mago 36, 77Platja de Muro 77Platja de Palma 41Platja es Trénc 43, 77, 116Pollença 103, 105Pollença to Puig de Maria(walk) 49Pollentia 30, 31, 55Port, Es (Port deValldemossa) 100Port d’Alcúdia 41, 105Port d’Andratx 40, 98Port Blau, Colònia deSant Jordi 115, 118Port de Pollença 41, 104Port Pub, Port de Calad’Or 119Port de Sóller 40–41, 68,96, 97Port de Valldemossa 40Portal de l’Almoina, SaSeu 8Portal Major, Sa Seu 8153Index
  • 143. Portal del Mirador, SaSeu 8Portals Nous 44Portals Vells 44Portochristo 115, 116Portocolom 115, 116Portopetro 41Puig de ses Bassetes49Puig Caragoler 49Puig Galatzó 49Puig Major 49, 104, 106Puig de Massanella 49Puig Morell 49Puig de Randa 49Puig Roig 49Puig Sant Salvador 49Puig de Santa Eugénia(walk) 48Puig d’es Teix 49Puigpunyent 98Punta de N’Amer 77QQuintus Metellus 35Rradio 133Raïms, Algaida 145Raixa 65, 95Ramis, Juli 20Randemar, Port de Sóller,100Read’s, Santa Maria delCamí 83, 125, 141Recó de Randa, Es(Algaida) 125Refugio Tossals Verds,Lloseta 146Reina Rana, Santanyí 117Relojería Alemana, Palma91Reserva, La (walk) 48Reserva Rotana, La(Manacor) 141Residenca, La (Deià)143Restaurant S’Amitger,Lluc 26Restaurant Villa Italia,Port d’Andratx 100restaurantsCentral Plain 125North Coast 108Palma 93Southeast Coast 118Southwest Coast 100Top 10 82–3Ribas, Antoni 20Rincon de Pepe, CalaEgos 118Rocamar, Port d’Andratx100rock-climbing 46Rosamar Hotel & Bar,Palma 76Rossini, Palma 93Rubid, Joan 96Rusiñol, Santiago 20SSa Calobra 49, 106Sa Canova, Campos 118Sa Carrotja, Ses Salines145Sa Cuina, Portocolom 118Sa Fonda, Lluc 26Sa Granja 6, 16–17,95, 97Sa Llotja, Palma 90Sa Pedra, Portochristo81, 117Sa Pedrissa, Deià 145Sa Plaça, Petra 125, 140Sa Pobla 121, 123Sa Pobla Market 70Sa Posada de Bellver,Palma 72Sa Seu, Palma 6, 8–11,54, 58, 87, 89Sa Seu Museum, Palma 9Sa Torre, Santa Eugenias145sales tax 136, 138Salvador, Archduke 20,64, 95San Lorenzo, Palma 140Sanç, King 19Sand, George 7, 18, 19,60, 95Sant Elm to Sa Trapa(walk) 48Santa Catalina Thomás19, 53Santa Maria del Camí 51Santanyí 51, 116Santuari de Lluc 146Santuari de Monti-Sion,Porreres 146Santuari de NostraSenyora de Cura 61Santuari de NostraSenyora de Gràcia 61Santuari de SantSalvador, Felanitx 61,114, 146Santuari de Son Fe,Alcúdia 146Santuari de la Victòria,Alcúdia 59, 106Santuari del Puig deMaria, Pollença 146Sargent, John Singer20Sassecador, Portochristo32, 118Sassu, Aligi 20security 131self-catering apartments136, 147Serra, Junípero 53, 61,88, 122Serra de Tramuntana 104paintings of 20Ses Covetes 116Ses Paisses 55, 113Ses Rotes Velles,Campos–Colònia SantJordi 145S’Hort del Rei, Palma 64,89154Index
  • 144. shoppingCentral Plain 124North Coast 107Palma 91Southeast Coast 117Southwest Coast 99tips 138Top 10 shopping places70–71Sineu Market 71snorkelling 46Sóller 48, 68, 96, 97Son Colom, Felanitx 118Son Esteve, Andratx 145Son Gener, Son Severa145Son Marroig 64, 95, 97Southeast Coast 112–19cafés and shops 117map 112nightclubs and bars 119places to eat 118Southwest Coast94–101cafés and shops 99map 94nightclubs and bars101places to eat 100Stay, Port de Pollença108TTalaia d’Albercutx 28, 56Tango, Port de Pollença107tapas 79, 137Tàpies, Antoni 21taxis 130Tejidos Artesania, SantaMaria del Camí 70, 124Templar Gate, Palma 90Tetera, La (Pollença) 105, 108THB Felip Hotel,Portochristo 142tipping 137, 139Tito’s, Palma 72Toca Madera, Colònia deSant Jordi 117Torre de Homenaje 13Torre Verger 56Torrent de Pareis 36–7, 106tourism 21, 88, 114Tourist Offices 128Traffic, Alaró 83trains 130trams 68, 130travelgetting aroundMallorca 130getting to Mallorca 129traveller’s cheques 133Tres Playas, Colònia SantJordi 141Tribeca, Port de Pollença108trolleys see tramsTrotters Bar, Cala SantVicenç 109TV 133Twist, Portochristo 119VValldemossa 7, 18–21, 95,97Valle de la Luna, Sóller 77vegetarian and veganfood 137Vent de Tramuntana, Portd’Andratx 82Verne, Jules 113Villa Hermosa,Felanitx–Portocolom 143Villa Italia, Port d’Andratx141Villa Sirena, Cala Figuera142visas 128Vista Hermosa,Felanitx–Portocolom118Vistamar, El (Portocolom)141Vol de l’Alosa, El (Miró) 20Wwalking see hikingwater, drinking 132watersports 46websites 128Wild West Park 68wildlife and plants 37,38–9, 105windmills 122wine 51, 121, 124Winter in Majorca, A(Sand) 18, 95XXuetes 53Yyouth hostels 146ZZara, Palma 91Zarzales, Los, Port dePollença 108155Index
  • 145. 156AcknowledgementsAcknowledgementsThe AuthorJeffrey Kennedy is a freelancetravel writer who divides histime between the IberianPeninsula, Italy and the USA.He is the author of DorlingKindersley’s Top 10 Miami andTop 10 San Francisco and co-author of Top 10 Rome.The author would like to thankMaría Andersson, MariaCasanovas i Codìna, Jolie Chain,Tomeu Deyà, Oriol Galgo, MarrGoodrum, Britta Ploenzke, AnnaSkidmore, Mike Suarez andConcha Tejada.Produced byBLUE ISLAND PUBLISHING,LONDONwww.blueisland.co.ukEditorial DirectorRosalyn ThiroArt DirectorStephen BereAssociate EditorMichael EllisDesignerLee RedmondPicture ResearchEllen RootResearch AssistanceAmaia AllendeProofreaderJane SimmondsFact-checkerPaula CanalIndexerJane SimmondsMain PhotographerColin SinclairAdditional PhotographyJoe Cornish, Neil Mersh, DavidMurray and Jules Selmes, CliveStreeter, Barteomines Zaranek,Stephen Bere.CartographyMartin DarlisonTom Coulson(Encompass Graphics Ltd)Source data for Mallorca derivedfrom Netmaps.www.netmaps.esAT DORLING KINDERSLEYPublisherDouglas AmrinePublishing ManagerFay FranklinSenior Art EditorMarisa RenzulloSenior Cartographic EditorCasper MorrisDTPJason Little,Conrad van DykProductionMelanie DowlandAdditional AssistanceAndrea Boyd, Sherry Collins,Karen Fitzpatrick, Neil LockleyPhotography PermissionsDorling Kindersley would like tothank all the cathedrals,churches, museums, hotels,restaurants, bars, clubs, shops,galleries and other sights for
  • 146. 157their assistance and kindpermission to photograph attheir establishments.Placement Key: t = top; tl =top left; tr = top right; tc = topcentre; c = centre; cr = centreright; b= bottom; bl = bottomleft; br = bottom right.Works of art have been repro-duced with the permission ofthe following copyright holders:Courtesy of Fundaciò Pilar i JoanMiró: all 14, 14–15, 62tc, 88brJoan Oliver Fuster 20bJoan Miró © ADAGP, Paris andDACS, London 14b, 63tMUSEO D’ART ESPANYOLCONTEMPORANI: GuillermoPérez Villalta La Estancia 62cThe publisher would like tothank the following individuals,companies and picture librariesfor their kind permission toreproduce their photographs inthis publication:A1Pix: 52t; AISA-BCN: 35trPEDRO CAUBET: 32–33CHIVAS: 73t; CORBIS: ArchivoIconografico 35tl, 35br;Bettmann 35cr; Cordaiy PhotoLibrary Ltd/Chris North 52c;COVER: C. Agustin 53tl;J. Echevarria 53bl; RamonRabal 32b; COVES DEL DRAC:32t, 33t, 33bFUNDACIÒ PILAR I JOANMIRÓ: 6bl, 15t,15bGALLERIES VINCENÇ,S.A.U.107tc; GRAN CASINO DEMALLORCA: 72tr, 72bHOSTAL RESTAURANTE PLAYA:144tl; HOTEL ARIES: 76tc;HOTEL LEON DE SINEU: 125tcMALLORCA RESTAURANTS-121: 117tr; MULLIGAN’S IRISHPUB: 109trNHPA: Julia Meech 38tl; RogerTidman 38c, 38bAll other images are © DorlingKindersley. For more informationsee www.dkimages.comAcknowledgementsSpecial Editions of DK Travel GuidesDK Travel Guides can be purchasedin bulk quantities at discounted pricesfor use in promotions or as premiums.We are also able to offer specialeditions and personalized jackets,corporate imprints, and excerpts fromall of our books, tailored specifically tomeet your own needs.To find out more, please contact:(in the United States)SpecialSales@dk.com(in the UK) Sarah.Burgess@dk.com(in Canada) DK Special Sales atgeneral@tourmaline.ca(in Australia) business.development@pearson.com.au
  • 147. In an EmergencyHelp! Auxili! ow-gzee-leeStop! Pareu! pah-reh-ooCall a doctor! Telefoneu un teh-leh-fon-eh-oometge! oon meh-djuhCall an Telefoneu una teh-leh-fon-eh-ooambulance! ambulància! oo-nah ahm-boo-lahn-see-ahCall the police! Telefoneu teh-leh-fon-eh-oola policia lah poh-leesee-ahCall the fire Telefoneu teh-leh-fon-eh-oobrigade! els bombers! uhlz boom-behsWhere is the On és on-ehs uhl tuh-lehnearest el teléfon fon mehstelephone? més proper? proo-pehWhere is the On és on-ehs looss-pee-nearest l’hospital tahl mehshospital? més proper? proo-pehCommunication EssentialsYes Si seeNo No nohPlease Si us plau sees plah-ooThank you Gràcies grah-see-uhsExcuse me Perdoni puhr-thoh-neeHello Hola oh-lahGoodbye Adéu ah-they-ooGood night Bona nit bo-nah neetMorning El matí uhl muh-teeAfternoon La tarda lah tahr-thuhEvening El vespre uhl vehs-pruhYesterday Ahir ah-eeToday Avui uh-voo-eeTomorrow Demà duh-mahHere Aquí uh-keeThere Allà uh-lyahWhat? Qué? kehWhen? Quan? KwahnWhy? Per qué? puhr kehWhere? On? ohnUseful PhrasesHow are you? Com està? kom uhs-tahVery well, Molt bé, mol behthank you. gràcies. grah-see-uhsPleased to Molt de gust. mol duh goostmeet you.See you soon. Fins aviat. feenz uhv-yatThat’s fine. Està bé. uhs-tah behWhere is/are … ? On és/són…? ohn ehs/sohnHow far is it to… ? Quants metres/ kwahnz meh-kilòmetres hi truhs/kee-loh-ha d’aquí a … ? muh-truhs yahdah-kee uhWhich Per on es puhr on uhsway to … ? va a … ? bah ahDo you speak Parla par-luhEnglish? anglés? an-glehsI don’t understand No l’entenc. noh luhn-tengCould you Pot parlar més pot par-lah mehsspeak more a poc a poc, pok uh pokslowly, please? si us plau? sees plah-ooI’m sorry. Ho sento. oo sehn-tooUseful Wordsbig gran gransmall petit puh-teethot calent kah-lencold fred fredgood bo bohbad dolent doo-lenenough bastant bahs-tanwell bé behopen obert oo-behrclosed tancat tan-katleft esquerra uhs-kehr-ruhright dreta dreh-tuhstraight on recte rehk-tuhnear a prop uh propfar lluny lyoonyuhup/over a dalt uh dahldown/under a baix uh bah-eeshhearly aviat uhv-yatlate tard tahrtentrance entrada uhn-trah-thuhexit sortida soor-tee-thuhtoilet lavabos/ luh-vah-boosserveis sehr-beh-eesmore més messless menys menyeesShoppingHow much Quant kwahndoes this cost? costa això? kost ehs-shohI would like … M’agradaria … muh-grah-thuh-ree-ahDo you have? Tenen? tehn-unI’m just looking, Només estic noo -messthank you mirant, gràcies. ehs-teekmee-rahngrah-see-uhsDo you take Accepten ak-sehp-tuhncredit cards? targes de tahr-zhuhs duhcrédit? kreh-deetWhat time A quina hora ah keen-uh oh-ruhdo you open? obren? oh-bruhnWhat time A quina hora ah keen-uh ohdo you close? tanquen? ruh tan-kuhnThis one. Aquest ah-ketThat one. Aquell ah-kehlexpensive car kahrcheap bé de preu/ beh thuh preh-barat oo/bah-ratsize (clothes) talla/mida tah-lyah/mee-thuhsize (shoes) número noo-mehr-oowhite blanc blangblack negre neh-gruhred vermell vuhr-melyellow groc grokEnglish-Mallorquín Phrase Book158
  • 148. green verd behrtblue blau blah-ooantiques shop antiquari/ an-tee-kwah-ree/botiga boo-tee-gah/dan-d’antiguitats tee-ghee-tatsbakery el forn uhl fornbank el banc uhl bangbookshop la llibreria lah lyee-bruh-ree-ahbutcher’s la carnisseria lah kahr-nee-suh-ree-uhfishmonger’s la peixateria lah peh-shuh-tuh-ree-uhgreengrocer’s la fruiteria lah froo-ee-tuh-ree-uhgrocer’s la botiga de lah boo-tee-guh duhqueviures keh-vee-oo-ruhshairdresser’s la perruqueria lah peh-roo-kuh-ree-uhmarket el mercat uhl muhr-katnewsagent’s el quiosc uhl kee-ohskde premsa duh prem-suhpastry shop la pastisseria lah pahs-tee-suh-ree-uhpharmacy la farmàcia lah fuhr-mah-see-ahpost office l’oficina de loo-fee-see-nuhcorreus duh koo-reh-oosshoe shop la sabateria lah sah-bah-tuh-ree-uhsupermarket el supermercat uhl soo-puhr-muhr-kattobacconist’s l’estanc luhs-tangtravel agency l’agència de la-jen-see-uh duhviatges vee-ad-juhsSightseeingart gallery la galeria d’ art lah gah-luh ree-yuh dartcathedral la catedral lah kuh-tuh-thrahlchurch l’església/ luhz-gleh-zee-uh/la basílica lah buh-zee-lee-kuhgarden el jardí uhl zhahr-deelibrary la biblioteca lah bee-blee-oo-teh-kuhmuseum el museu uhl moo-seh-ootourist infor- l’oficina de loo-fee-see-nuhmation office turisme thuh too-reez-muhtown hall l’ajuntament luh-djoon-tuh-menclosed for tancat per tan-kat puhrholiday vacances bah-kan-suhsbus station l’estació luhs-tah-see-ohd’autobusos dow-toh-boo-zoosrailway l’estació luhs-tah-see-ohstation de tren thuh trenStaying in a HotelDo you have Tenen una teh-nuhn oo-nuha vacant room? habitació ah-bee-tuh-see-ohlliure? lyuh-ruhdouble habitació ah-bee-tuh-see-ohroom with doble amb doh-bluh amdouble bed llit de lyeet duh mah-matrimoni tree-moh-neetwin room habitació ah-bee-tuh-see-ohamb dos llits/ am dohs lyeets/amb llits am lyeetsindividuals in-thee-vee-thoo-ahlssingle room habitació ah-bee-tuh-see-ohindividual een-dee-vee-thoo-ahlroom with habitació ah-bee-tuh-see-oha bath amb bany am bahnyuhshower dutxa doo-chuhporter el grum uhl groomkey la clau lah klah-ooI have a Tinc una ting oo-nuhreservation habitació ah-bee-tuh-reservada see-oh reh-sehr-vah-thahEating OutHave you got a Tenen teh-nuhntable for … taula per…? tow-luh puhrI would like. Voldria vool-dree-uhto reserve reservar reh-sehr-vahra table una taula. oo-nuh tow-luhThe bill. El compte, uhl kohm-tuhplease si us plau. sees plah-ooI am a Sóc sok buh-zhuh-tuh-vegetarian. vegetarià/ ree-ahvegetariana. buh-zhuh-tuh-ree-ah-nahwaitress cambrera kam-breh-ruhwaiter cambrer kam-brehmenu la carta lah kahr-tuhfixed-price menú del muh-noo thuhlmenu dia dee-uhwine list la carta de lah kahr-tuh thuhvins veensglass of water un got d’aigua oon got dah-ee-gwahglass of wine una copa de vi oo-nuh ko-pahthuh veebottle una ampolla oo-nuh am-pol-yuhknife un ganivet oon gun-ee-vehtfork una forquilla oo-nuh foor-keel-yuhspoon una cullera oo-nuh kool-yeh-ruhbreakfast l’esmorzar les-moor-sahlunch el dinar uhl dee-nahdinner el sopar uhl soo-pahmain course el primer plat uhl pree-meh platstarters els entrants uhlz ehn-tranzdish of the day el plat del dia uhl plat duhldee-uhcoffee el café uhl kah-fehrare poc fet pok fetmedium al punt ahl poonwell done molt fet mol fet159
  • 149. Menu Decoderl’aigua mineral lah-ee-gwuh mineral watermee-nuh-rahlsense gas/ sen-zuh gas/ stillamb gas am gas sparklingal forn ahl forn bakedl’all lahlyuh garlicl’arròs lahr-roz riceles botifarres lahs boo-tee- sausagesfah-rahsla carn lah karn meatla ceba lah seh-buh onionla cervesa lah-sehr-ve-sah beerl’embotit lum-boo-teet cold meatel filet uhl fee-let sirloinel formatge uhl for-mah-djuh cheesefregit freh-zheet friedla fruita lah froo-ee-tah fruitels fruits secs uhlz froo-eets seks nutsles gambes lahs gam-bus prawnsel gelat uhl djuh-lat ice creamla llagosta lah lyah-gos-tah lobsterla llet lah lyet milkla llimona lah lyee-moh-nah lemonla llimonada lah lyee-moh- lemonadenah-thuhla mantega lah mahn-teh-gah butterel marisc uhl muh-reesk seafoodla menestra lah muh-nehs-truh vegetable stewl’oli loll-ee oilles olives luhs oo-lee-vuhs olivesl’ou loh-oo eggel pa uhl pah breadel pastís uhl pahs-tees pie/cakeles patates lahs pah-tah-tuhs potatoesel pebre uhl peh-bruh pepperel peix uhl pehsh fishel pernil uhl puhr-neel cured hamsalat serrà suh-lat sehr-rahel plàtan uhl plah-tun bananael pollastre uhl poo-lyah-struh chickenla poma la poh-mah appleel porc uhl pohr porkles postres lahs pohs-truhs dessertrostit rohs-teet roastla sal lah sahl saltla salsa lah sahl-suh sauceles salsitxes lahs sahl-see-chuhs sausagessec sehk dryla sopa lah soh-puh soupel sucre uhl-soo-kruh sugarla taronja lah tuh-rohn-djuh orangeel te uhl teh teales torrades lahs too-rah-thuhs toastla vedella lah veh-theh-lyuh beefel vi blanc uhl bee blang white wineel vi negre uhl bee neh-gruh red wineel vi rosat uhl bee roo-zaht rosé wineel vinagre uhl bee-nah-gruh vinegarel xai/el be uhl shahee/uhl beh lambla xocolata lah shoo-koo-lah-tuh chocolateel xoriç uhl shoo-rees red sausageNumbers0 zero seh-roo1 un (masc) oonuna (fem) oon-uh2 dos (masc) dohsdues (fem) doo-uhs3 tres trehs4 quatre kwa-truh5 cinc seeng6 sis sees7 set set8 vuit voo-eet9 nou noh-oo10 deu deh-oo11 onze on-zuh12 dotze doh-dzuh13 tretze treh-dzuh14 catorze kah-tohr-dzuh15 quinze keen-zuh16 setze set-zuh17 disset dee-set18 divuit dee-voo-eet19 dinou dee-noh-oo20 vint been21 vint-i-un been-tee-oon22 vint-i-dos been-tee-dohs30 trenta tren-tah31 trenta-un tren-tah oon40 quaranta kwuh-ran-tuh50 cinquanta seen-kwahn-tah60 seixanta seh-ee-shan-tah70 setanta seh-tan-tah80 vuitanta voo-ee-tan-tah90 noranta noh-ran-tah100 cent sen101 cent un sent oon102 cent dos sen dohs200 dos-cents (masc) dohs-sensdues-centes (fem) doo-uhs sen-tuhs300 tres-cents trehs-senz400 quatre-cents kwah-truh-senz500 cinc-cents seeng-senz600 sis-cents sees-senz700 set-cents set-senz800 vuit-cents voo-eet-senz900 nou-cents noh-oo-cenz1,000 mil meel1,001 mil un meel oonTimeone minute un minut oon mee-nootone hour una hora oo-nuh oh-ruhhalf an hour mitja hora mee-juh oh-ruhMonday dilluns dee-lyoonzTuesday dimarts dee-martsWednesday dimecres dee-meh-kruhsThursday dijous dee-zhoh-oosFriday divendres dee-ven-druhsSaturday dissabte dee-sab-tuhSunday diumenge dee-oo-men-juh160
  • 150. Discover more atwww.dk.comYOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHINGEYEWITNESS TRAVELTOP 10MALLORCAWhether you are traveling first class or on a limitedbudget, this Eyewitness Top 10 guide will lead youstraight to the very best Mallorca has to offer.Dozens of Top 10 lists – from the Top 10 hidden coves tothe Top 10 markets, nightclubs, and restaurants – providethe insider knowledge every visitor needs. And to saveyou time and money, theres even a list of the Top 10Things to Avoid.Visit travel.dk.com to build your own travel guideand receive exclusive offers.$12.00USA$15.00CANADAPrinted in China

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