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Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
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Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast

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Oregon State University scientist Tuba Ozkan-Haller's 2010-2012 research project for Oregon Sea Grant

Oregon State University scientist Tuba Ozkan-Haller's 2010-2012 research project for Oregon Sea Grant

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  • Rational and fair coastal management requires an assessment of the vulnerability associated with coastal change. This cannot be presently provided in large part because the position of the shoreline or bluff varies over a broad spectrum of time scales in response to a variety of processes. Coastal Change Hazards cost on the order of $ 100s of millions per year in the US alone. These hazards exist over a broad range of time and space scales. Some coasts have been retreating for centuries to millenia but become hazards when they impact coastal developments. Pacifica, CA long-term erosion problem was accentuated by the 97/98 El Nino. Episodic cliff erosion and landsliding is a major hazard to infrastructure. In other cases event driven response constitutes the greatest hazards such as the recent impacts of hurricane Isabel on the outer banks of NC. Obviously it would be nice to have a predictive capability to reduce the economic, social, and environmental costs of these hazards.
  • Rational and fair coastal management requires an assessment of the vulnerability associated with coastal change. This cannot be presently provided in large part because the position of the shoreline or bluff varies over a broad spectrum of time scales in response to a variety of processes. Coastal Change Hazards cost on the order of $ 100s of millions per year in the US alone. These hazards exist over a broad range of time and space scales. Some coasts have been retreating for centuries to millenia but become hazards when they impact coastal developments. Pacifica, CA long-term erosion problem was accentuated by the 97/98 El Nino. Episodic cliff erosion and landsliding is a major hazard to infrastructure. In other cases event driven response constitutes the greatest hazards such as the recent impacts of hurricane Isabel on the outer banks of NC. Obviously it would be nice to have a predictive capability to reduce the economic, social, and environmental costs of these hazards.
  • Transcript

    1. Nearshore Wave Prediction Along the Oregon Coast H. Tuba Özkan-Haller (COAS) Peter Ruggiero (Geosciences)
    2. The nearshore ocean is fun
    3. …… .. beautiful
    4. …… .. keeps us fed
    5. Pelamis OPT Wavegen …… .. energetic
    6. …… .. vulnerable
    7. …… .. vulnerable
    8. …… .. vulnerable Ruggiero, Allan, and Komar, 2010; after Allan and Komar, 2000; 2006
    9. Nearshore Wave Predictions <ul><li>Why? </li></ul><ul><li>local storm surge and flood predictions </li></ul><ul><li>navigational planning </li></ul><ul><li>siting of wave energy devices </li></ul><ul><li>forecasts for recreational users </li></ul>
    10. <ul><li>Who? </li></ul><ul><li>general public </li></ul><ul><li>coastal decision makers </li></ul><ul><li>mariners </li></ul><ul><li>researchers </li></ul>Nearshore Wave Predictions
    11. Nearshore wave predictions – OR forecast system Wave modifications over the OR shelf
    12. Nearshore wave predictions – California CDIP forecasts <ul><li>In OR and WA: </li></ul><ul><li>NOAA Coastal Storms initiative – </li></ul><ul><ul><ul><ul><ul><li>select inlets </li></ul></ul></ul></ul></ul><ul><li>Predicted wave heights </li></ul><ul><ul><li>at 10m depth </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>at 100-200m alongshore resolution </li></ul></ul>
    13. Nearshore wave predictions – OR forecasts system <ul><li>Scientific Objectives: </li></ul><ul><li>Implement a prediction system </li></ul><ul><li>Validate system using hindcasts </li></ul><ul><li>begin to assess local vulnerability </li></ul><ul><li>Outreach and Engagement Objectives: </li></ul><ul><li>(Pat Corcoran) </li></ul><ul><li>conduct two workshops to </li></ul><ul><ul><li>-> engage agency scientists, </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li> use planners and ocean users </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>-> task some to use system </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li> and report reliability </li></ul></ul><ul><li>publicize system </li></ul>
    14. <ul><li>given deep water wave conditions at NOAA buoy locations </li></ul><ul><li>-> predict wave characteristics nearshore </li></ul>Bathymetry <ul><li>Sea from NW </li></ul><ul><li>Swell from W </li></ul><ul><li>Swell from SW </li></ul>Wave height predictions for: Shadowing from Cape Blanco Nearshore wave predictions – OR forecasts system
    15. Nearshore wave predictions – OR forecasts system <ul><li>Objectives: </li></ul><ul><li>Implement a prediction system </li></ul><ul><li>Validate system using hindcasts </li></ul><ul><li>begin to assess local vulnerability </li></ul><ul><li>Outcome: </li></ul><ul><li>a validated coastal wave prediction system </li></ul><ul><ul><li>transitioned to the NWS </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Uses: </li></ul><ul><li>local storm surge and flood predictions </li></ul><ul><li>navigational planning </li></ul><ul><li>siting of wave energy devices </li></ul><ul><li>forecasts for recreational users </li></ul>

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