Hunky Dory Repair iPhone 4 Tear Down and Repair Guide
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Hunky Dory Repair iPhone 4 Tear Down and Repair Guide

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Hunky Dory Repair iPhone 4 Tear Down and Repair Guide

Hunky Dory Repair iPhone 4 Tear Down and Repair Guide

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Hunky Dory Repair iPhone 4 Tear Down and Repair Guide Hunky Dory Repair iPhone 4 Tear Down and Repair Guide Presentation Transcript

  • TOOLS YOU WILL NEED • Regular iPhone 3.8 mm Phillips Screw Driver, or the .8 bit driver from your toolkit • Spudger! • Guitar pick, plastic pry tools, anything that can be used to gently pry up on the glass and other parts • Heat Gun • Replacement parts and other pieces • Clean surface, preferably a static matt • Canned air for cleaning • Hand Vacuum • Sim card removal tool
  • REPLACING THE FRONT LCD ASSEMBLY There is two different versions of the iPhone 4, one is a CDMA version that’s used for carriers like Sprint and Verizon The other version is for GSM carriers, ones that have a sim card in order to get service. The iPhone 4 has very distinct differences when it comes to repair. First we will do the GSM
  • IPHONE 4 GSM LCD ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
  • REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS Make sure to: • Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe screws. • Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
  • REMOVING THE BACK COVER Make sure to: • Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the plastic frame around the edge of the cover. • Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not damage or scratch the back in any way.
  • REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back cover, these are what help keep the back in place. • As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET Make sure to: • Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
  • REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY Make sure to: • Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to be re-soldered on. • Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming out of the left side. • Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not want the battery to be completely misshapen. • Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
  • REMOVE THE SIM CARD TRAY Make sure to: • Remove the sim card tray properly, you do not want to push to hard and bend or break the metal lever on the inside. • Always do this before attempting to take anything else out of the phone, the sim card tray also works to hold the board into place, and you can damage the copper points if removal is too hard.
  • REMOVING THE BOTTOM DOCK RIBBON SCREWS AND THE PLATE ASSEMBLY. Make sure to: • Remember that the screw on the left that connects to the mid-frame is different from the one on the right, it is smaller and has a flatter head. • When removing the screws, make sure to keep them aligned with the plate on their appropriate sides so you do not forget which side is which.
  • REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON Make sure to: • Carefully remove the dock ribbon, and bend it VERY slightly to the left and out of the way, as sometimes it will get in the way when removing the other pieces. • DO NOT USE A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER, this can have negative effects and cause the dock ribbon to stop working, better bust out the
  • REMOVE THE ANTENNA AND SPEAKER PIN Make sure to: • Not use a flathead! We do not want to damage the pinion or the pin hole that holds it into place. • When you remove it, pull it up and to the right and out of the way.
  • REMOVE THE LEFT SIDE DOCK SCREW Make sure to: • Remove the screw carefully, and remember that it is a completely unique screw from the others inside of the assembly of the phone, keep it with the other screws that connect the board to the mid frame, in order from bottom to the top.
  • REMOVE THE BOARD SOCKET HEAT PLATE Make sure to: • Remember that each one of these screws Is unique and serves a specific purpose on the integrity of the build of the phone. • When removing, start from the left, and then pull the plate out carefully, aligning it to the layout of the screws, so you do not forget what point they go in, they are not all the same size either.
  • REMOVE THE PLATE THAT COVERS THE TOP BOARD SOCKETS AND THE ASSEMBLY Make sure to: • Carefully pull up and down, making sure not the bend the plate in anyway, as bending it can cause the LCD assembly to sit improperly inside of the phone. • Place it in a neat and organized manner with the screws so that everything lines up correctly for re-assembly.
  • REMOVING THE CAMERA AND RIBBON FLEX Make sure to: • Carefully pull up on the ribbon flex, sometimes the two layers can come undone, and cause the camera to come apart, and you will not be able to put it back on. • Clean the camera as you pull it out with compressed air for dust. • DO NOT USE A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER.
  • REMOVE THE MID BOARD SCREWS Make sure to: • Check the other water damage indicator strip, it actually covers the screw and will need to stay on the screw, so carefully unscrew it without damaging the indicator • This is the main screw for holding the board to the mid-frame
  • REMOVING THE TOP RIBBON FLEX’S Make sure to: • Remember that this part is a little tricky, each ribbon flex has a specific duty, and needs to stay in the correct order in order to reassembly the phone. • The red ribbon flex is for the digitizer ribbon, pry upwards from the bottom • The orange ribbon is the LCD ribbon, pry up from the bottom right side • The yellow ribbon is for the Head phone jack and the volume key ribbon, pry from the top • The green ribbon is for the top microphone/on-off button, pry from the top
  • REMOVE THE TOP BOARD BRACE SCREW Make sure to: • Use a flathead mini screwdriver, this one is very integral to keeping the board in place, and is also used for a thread for one of the screws for the plate that covers the main ribbons and the sockets.
  • REMOVING THE IPHONE 4 BOARD FROM FRAME Make sure to: • Remember that the sim card tray must be removed before taking the board out. • Life from the bottom and up, making sure not to damage the copper prong that is on the top of the board. • Once you life it up from the bottom, pull it back from the bottom to
  • REMOVE THE BOTTOM SPEAKER ASSEMBLY SCREW Make sure to: • Carefully unscrew it, and make sure that you do not damage the copper plate holder, as this helps hold the assembly down. • Pull the black speaker housing after you have unscrewed it from the right side and pull up and out. • Make sure to clean and not damage the metal prongs on the top of the assembly, these prongs help hold it into place.
  • REMOVE THE VIBRATE MOTOR Make sure to: • Remember that the red screw is a longer screw that holds the vibrate motor and the headphone jack in the same place at the same time. • The orange circled screw holds the vibrate motor to the metal frame so that it doesn’t shake around inside of the phone.
  • REMOVE THE TOP RIGHT CORNER FRAME SCREW Make sure to: • Remove this screw, it is ¼ and they are all the same size. • It is easier to start with this one first because it appears right after you remove the vibrate motor. • Keep it organized and layed out, although all 4 screws are the same size so they do not have to go from where they came from.
  • REMOVE THE VOLUME KEY FRAME SCREWS Make sure to: • Remove these screws carefully. • Keep them all together they are all the same size, but will not fit any other screw thread correctly, so you do not want to incorrectly put them together.
  • REMOVE THE BOTTOM RIGHT CORNER SCREW Make sure to: • Keep this with the other screw from the top right side • Look to the left of the screw in the opposite corner, we will remove that one next.
  • REMOVE THE BOTTOM LEFT CORNER SCREW Make sure to: • KEEP THIS WITH THE OTHER CORNER SCREWS • Sometimes you have to move the board around, making the bottom the top in order to correctly remove it without stripping it. • These screws are important in keeping the LCD on the frame, so do not lose them! Always replace them if one is lost, NO MISSING
  • REMOVE ADDITIONAL FRAME AND CORNER SCREW Make sure to: • Start from the bottom screw circled in red, these go with the other screws and there is three more on the opposite side of the frame that need to be removed • The top orange screw is for the corner and needs to be completely removed • To save time, just unscrew the six mid-frame screws slightly so that they uncover the brackets for the LCD display and keep them on the frame itself.
  • REMOVING THE LCD FROM THE MIDFRAME Make sure to: • Heat up the edge of the display slightly, just to get the adhesive to rise up a tiny bit, the start with your plastic pry tool and push up, making a gap between the LCD and the mid frame. • Never use a flathead, you can scratch the mid-frame. • Don’t try for a huge gap, just enough to pull it out with your hands
  • REMOVE THE LCD FROM THE MID-FRAME Make sure to: • Pull gently, you don’t want to rip it off. • Start from the top side and route the LCD and digitizer cables through the hole in the mid frame, make sure not to snag it on any of the other flex ribbon heads
  • CLEANING THE COMPLETE FRAME Make sure to: • Clean the mid-frame bezel with the green side of the sponge, this keeps the brush metal look going, and makes the phone look better then it did when it came in! It also helps take off some of the adhesive that may be left on the bezel.
  • PUTTING NEW LCD ASSEMBLY ON Make sure to: • Completely remove the tape from the backside of the new LCD assembly. • This tape is used for the heatsink sheet that’s on the back of the LCD, if it gets scratched, you will be able to see it through the LCD when the phone is on.
  • ROUTING THE DIGITIZER AND LCD CABLES Make sure to: • Turn the phone upside down, then route the two cables through the hole in the midframe. • Then stretch the cables out gently so that all of the cable is through and it does not hang up • Make sure the home button is on and aligned, and then line the brackets up on the
  • FINISHING TOUCHES • Now that we have the LCD in place, start with rescrewing the corner screws back into their place, as these are some of the main screws that hold the assembly into place. • Then start tightening the middle bezel screws into place, make sure that there is no gaps in between the frame and the LCD, go slow, double checking all around the assembly so that nothing can get in the way, and that there is nothing that is causing a gap. • Make sure the home button is in the correct position the whole time, making sure that it is flush with the new LCD assembly, we want it to look like it was before it was broken, only better! • Now that we have all the main screws for the display into place, start from the end of the disassembly instructions, and reassemble the phone taking everything into consideration and getting all of the correct qualities for a good repair!
  • IPHONE 4 CDMA FRONT LCD ASSEMBLY REPAIR
  • REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS Make sure to: • Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe screws. • Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
  • REMOVING THE BACK COVER Make sure to: • Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the plastic frame around the edge of the cover. • Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not damage or scratch the back in any way.
  • REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back cover, these are what help keep the back in place. • As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET Make sure to: • Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
  • REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY Make sure to: • Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to be re-soldered on. • Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming out of the left side. • Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not want the battery to be completely misshapen. • Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY RIBBON SCREW Make sure to: • Notice the difference in the layout of the CDMA iPhone 4, it has a completely different setup because it does not have a GSM slot for the simcard and instead uses a chip for its cellular connection services • Be carefule not to strip this screw, and keep it next to the battery and
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY SOCKET ASSEMBLY Make sure to: • Gently pry it up, you do not want it to separate the socket and the socket connect from the board at the same time, as this will render the device inoperable. • Never use a flathead, always use the spudger or a plastic pry tool
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY Make sure to: • Use the provided plastic strip to pry the battery out, sometimes you may have to use the wedge end of the spudger in order to pull it out, as the adhesive can sometimes be a little tough to work with. • Make sure to keep the battery in its original shape, we don’t want it to cause the back to sit incorrectly on the back of the phone.
  • REMOVING THE DOCK SCREWS AND COVER PLATE Make sure to: • Remove the screws carefully, the one on the right side screws into another style of screw and can sometimes become jammed if you vigorously unscrew the top one • Keep the plate and screws on their respectable sides when removing, they are only for this plate and cannot be used for anything else.
  • REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON FROM BOARD Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the ribbon from the socket, sometimes if you pull up to hard, or with a flathead, the ribbon will be stuck by adhesive and then tear when you take it off. • Pull it up and to the left to take it out of your way as you work on the ot
  • UN-PEEL THE DOCK RIBBON FROM THE BOARD Make sure to: • Peel the ribbon back carefully, sometimes the adhesive is so bad, the ribbon ends up tearing and the whole dock assembly will have to be replaced.
  • REMOVE THE PRESSURE ANTENNA SCREW Make sure to: • Keep the little black copper tipped swing arm with the screw that you are removing • Underneath the swing arm is the bottom speaker house pinion cable, and this metal arm keeps it held down and in place, so it is very important.
  • REMOVE THE SPEAKER HOUSING PINION Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove this cable, we do not want to use a flathead, as sometimes the pin head will come off if tugged to hard. • The hole that it attaches to can also be bent and misaligned which will make it hard to put it back on.
  • REMOVING THE TOP RIBBON PLATE Make sure to: • Remember that each one of these screws is a different size, and the 3 colors designate the smaller phillips head size, although a #00 will work perfectly, you do not want to strip them • When you remove the plate with the spudger, try to keep the layout of the screws correct, they all serve a purpose and cannot be
  • REMOVING THE CAMERA FROM THE BOARD Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the camera ribbon flex from its socket, sometimes if you pry to hard the flex ribbon will separate into two pieces, and will no longer function. • Pry it up, then use the flex ribbon to pull the camera out of its housing.
  • REMOVING THE VARIOUS RIBBON FLEX’S Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool, never use a flat head to remove these flex ribbons, they are delicate! • The Green marked ribbon is for the digitizer, pry upwards from the bottom • The blue marked ribbon is for the LCD, pry up from the right. • The yellow ribbon is for the front facing camera pry up from the left side. • The red ribbon is for the headphone jack/volume button, pry up from the left • The orange ribbon is for the power button, and is the smallest, pry up from the left.
  • REMOVING 1ST METAL BRACKET SWING ARM Make sure to: • Remove all the ribbon flex cables first, then unscrew and pull the black swing arm lever up, and make sure to keep • This is used to help keep the headphone jack, and the board in the correct position so DO NOT LOSE IT!
  • REMOVE THE GROUNDING CLIP FROM THE BOARD Make sure to: • Keep ahold of this piece, it may seem minimal, but like always it servers a purpose. • Easy step, pull it out and move on.
  • REMOVE THE WI-FI ANTENNA PIN Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool to pull the little pin up from its hole-lock, do not use a flathead, we do not want to damage the pin head.
  • REMOVE THE TAPE COVERING THE TOP BOARD SCREW Make sure to: • Use a pair of tweezers to uncover the screw that is on the top left of the board to the right of the where the camera housing is. • Try not to tear It completely off, but just enough to uncover it and get to the head of the screw. • Sometimes if the phone has been repaired, it wont be there, if it isnt, skip this step.
  • REMOVE THE BRACKET SCREW AND UNCOVERED SCREW Make sure to: • Start on the left side, this screw was just uncovered, and is sometimes missed by technicians when trying to remove the board. • The screw on the right uses a flat head to be removed, and acts as the threading for one of the ribbon plate screws.
  • REMOVE THE REMAINING MAINBOARD SCREWS Make sure to: • Keep the correct layout of the screws, making sure that everything is in place and will not be too difficult when putting the phone back together. • The one of the vibrate motor is integral, and can sometimes be missed place • Don’t forget to check the water indicators for any signs of pink! TAKE NOTES!
  • REMOVING THE BOARD FROM THE FRAME Make sure to: • Start from the bottom and lift upward, you may need to remove the vibrate motor cylinder during this step, just use a flat head to pry it off without bending the copper point springs or damaging the motor. • Pull up and then pull the board towards the bottom direction.
  • REMOVE THE COPPER CAMERA GROUNDING FINGER Make sure to: • Not to lose this little copper point, its for the camera housing and helps for grounding the camera to the mid-frame.
  • REMOVE THE VIBRATE MOTOR Make sure to: • Remove this if you havent already done so. It is glued to the frame with adhesive and sometimes can be difficult to remove, but needs to be in a specific position when reassembled. • Not bend the copper spring plate, if you notice there is an alignment box that shows where it will be place during reassembly.
  • REMOVE THE SPEAKER HOUSE SCREWS AND ALIGNMENT PLATE Make sure to: • Remove the plate and screw on the left side, the black plastic plate is used to correctly position the speaker house, and needs to be there during reassembly, the left screw is larger so keep it with the plate. • Organize the screw layout correctly next to the speaker house piece.
  • REMOVE THE BLACK TAPE OVER THE TOP LEFT CORNER DISPLAY FOUNDATION SCREW Make sure to: • Try and keep this black tape, it has no use other then to hide the screw itself and provide a little more support for the display assembly that hooks into It.
  • REMOVE THE TOP LEFT DISPLAY ASSEMBLY CORNER SCREW Make sure to: • Keep this screw, along with the other corner screws in the same place so that they do not get mixed up with the other screws.
  • REMOVE THE TOP RIGHT DISPLAY ASSEMBLY CORNER SCREW Make sure to: • Keep this screw, along with the other corner screws in the same place so that they do not get mixed up with the other screws.
  • REMOVE THE BOTTOM RIGHT DISPLAY ASSEMBLY CORNER SCREW Make sure to: • Keep this screw, along with the other corner screws in the same place so that they do not get mixed up with the other screws.
  • REMOVE THE BOTTOM LEFT DISPLAY ASSEMBLY CORNER SCREW Make sure to: • Keep this screw, along with the other corner screws in the same place so that they do not get mixed up with the other screws.
  • LOOSEN THE LEFT SIDE VOLUME KEY FRAME SCREWS Make sure to: • If you are going to completely remove these screws, make sure the washers are with every single screw, if they are not you can create a gap between the frame and the LCD • There is 6 frame screws in total, loosening them is the easiest way to do it.
  • LOOSEN THE RIGHT SIDE FRAME SCREWS Make sure to: • If you are going to completely remove these screws, make sure the washers are with every single screw, if they are not you can create a gap between the frame and the LCD • There is 6 frame screws in total, loosening them is the easiest way to do it.
  • HEAT THE DISPLAY EDGE, AND PRY THE LCD ASSEMBLY OFF THE MID FRAME Make sure to: • Lightly heat up the edges of the display, there is only a small amount of adhesive, but it will help to cleanly pull the display all the way off • Start from the top, and slowly make your way round the edges of the display, using a plastic pry tool to move the display up and off.
  • PUTTING ON THE NEW DISPLAY ASSEMBLY • • • • • • • Stare by cleaning the mid-frame bezel with the green side of a sponge, this just cleans the look of the phone up, and helps take off some of the adhesive. Line the display assembly up correctly, make sure that the new assembly has the speaker mesh included, if not, pull it off with tweezers on the other part, and lightly glue or tape it to the new assembly. Make sure when pulling the LCD and digitizer ribbon through the small mid-frame whole that you route it correctly and pull it all the way through, or when you put the board in, the ribbons will not align up with the sockets. Line up all of the brackets and securely by pressure on the display as you put it down, but make sure you remove the back LCD tape that covers the foil layer. Once you have the display in place, connect the corner display assembly screws, screw them in, then tighten the 6 mid-frame screws to secure the whole LCD. Check for gaps and dust through out the LCD tightening process, we want the phone to look brand new with no mistakes. Once you have it on, work backwards from the provided steps to make sure that all of the parts are correctly reassembled on the phone.
  • REPLACING IPHONE 4 GSM DOCK CONNECTOR
  • REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS Make sure to: • Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe screws. • Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
  • REMOVING THE BACK COVER Make sure to: • Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the plastic frame around the edge of the cover. • Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not damage or scratch the back in any way.
  • REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back cover, these are what help keep the back in place. • As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET Make sure to: • Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
  • REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY Make sure to: • Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to be re-soldered on. • Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming out of the left side. • Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not want the battery to be completely misshapen. • Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
  • REMOVING THE BOTTOM DOCK RIBBON SCREWS AND THE PLATE ASSEMBLY. Make sure to: • Remember that the screw on the left that connects to the mid-frame is different from the one on the right, it is smaller and has a flatter head. • When removing the screws, make sure to keep them aligned with the plate on their appropriate sides so you do not forget which side is which.
  • REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON Make sure to: • Carefully remove the dock ribbon, and bend it VERY slightly to the left and out of the way, as sometimes it will get in the way when removing the other pieces. • DO NOT USE A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER, this can have negative effects and cause the dock ribbon to stop working, better bust out the
  • REMOVE THE ANTENNA AND SPEAKER PIN Make sure to: • Not use a flathead! We do not want to damage the pinion or the pin hole that holds it into place. • When you remove it, pull it up and to the right and out of the way.
  • REMOVE BOTTOM SPEAKER HOUSING DOCK SCREWS Make sure to: • Remember that these two screws are different sizes. So make sure to correctly lay them out when you are taking the speaker housing assmebly so that you know which side each screw goes too.
  • REMOVE THE RIBBON FROM THE FRAME Make sure to: • Remember that we are not completely pulling up the dock assembly yet, but we are getting the ribbon off the adhesive pad on the frame. • Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger, but not a flathead.
  • REMOVE THE DOCK ASSEMBLY SCREWS Make sure to: • Remove these screws carefully, sometimes moisture can cause them to lock into place, and you wont be able to repair the phone properly. • Use the proper screw head, the #00 Phillips and slowly unscrew them so they do not strip, organize them together with the rest of
  • REMOVE THE SPEAKER FLEX RIBBON FROM JAW LOCK Make sure to: • Use the pick end of the spudger, push up on the jaw lock (FPC LOCK) and then pull the ribbon out with a pair of tweezers. • This way we can pull the part out correctly, so that we do not damage the ribbon when pushing it back into the jaw lock, leave the FPC lock in the upwards position.
  • START TO REMOVE THE DOCK FLEX ASSEMBLY Make sure to: • Carefully pry up with the spudger, although we are replacing this assembly, the better condition we leave it in, the better the recycling buy back we can receive.
  • REMOVE THE RUBBER MICROPHONE HOUSING Make sure to: • Remember not to tear or break the rubber housing, we will be reusing it when we reinsert the microphone and dock flex into the phone.
  • PULL THE ENTIRE DOCK FLEX OFF THE FRAME Make sure to: • Attempt to keep the dock in the best possible shape that you can, the more internal parts we keep, the more per pound we can get when we recycle the used or broken materials.
  • REMOVING THE RUBBER HOUSING FROM THE DOCK ASSEMBLY FOR THE MICROPHONE Make sure to: • Be very careful when you remove the individual microphone housing, because there is a slight adhesive on the bottom of the microphone plate that holds it into place, we do not want to break or tear the rubber, as we will be reusing in.
  • PUTTING THE NEW DOCK ASSEMBLY ON • Now that we have the old dock flex off, remove the various plastic adhesive protection strips from the four spots on the new dock • Take the rubber microphone cover and slide it over the flat microphone piece on the right side of the dock, make sure that it is correctly in place, and the entire microphone is covered. • Insert the dock flex into place, making sure to align it correctly with the screw holes on either side of the metal bracket that holds the 30 pin contacts, and make sure that it it flush with the bottom edge, so that the 30 pin cable can correctly connect into the device. • Screw in the two screws and make sure that all of the adhesive sections are pushed down and stuck in their proper alignment. • Replace the speaker house assembly block, and then continue to reassemble the phone by following the previous slides from the back to the front.
  • IPHONE 4 CDMA DOCK ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
  • REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS Make sure to: • Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe screws. • Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
  • REMOVING THE BACK COVER Make sure to: • Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the plastic frame around the edge of the cover. • Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not damage or scratch the back in any way.
  • REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back cover, these are what help keep the back in place. • As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET Make sure to: • Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
  • REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY Make sure to: • Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to be re-soldered on. • Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming out of the left side. • Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not want the battery to be completely misshapen. • Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY RIBBON SCREW Make sure to: • Notice the difference in the layout of the CDMA iPhone 4, it has a completely different setup because it does not have a GSM slot for the simcard and instead uses a chip for its cellular connection services • Be carefule not to strip this screw, and keep it next to the battery and
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY SOCKET ASSEMBLY Make sure to: • Gently pry it up, you do not want it to separate the socket and the socket connect from the board at the same time, as this will render the device inoperable. • Never use a flathead, always use the spudger or a plastic pry tool
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY Make sure to: • Use the provided plastic strip to pry the battery out, sometimes you may have to use the wedge end of the spudger in order to pull it out, as the adhesive can sometimes be a little tough to work with. • Make sure to keep the battery in its original shape, we don’t want it to cause the back to sit incorrectly on the back of the phone.
  • REMOVING THE DOCK SCREWS AND COVER PLATE Make sure to: • Remove the screws carefully, the one on the right side screws into another style of screw and can sometimes become jammed if you vigorously unscrew the top one • Keep the plate and screws on their respectable sides when removing, they are only for this plate and cannot be used for anything else.
  • REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON FROM BOARD Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the ribbon from the socket, sometimes if you pull up to hard, or with a flathead, the ribbon will be stuck by adhesive and then tear when you take it off. • Pull it up and to the left to take it out of your way as you work on the ot
  • UN-PEEL THE DOCK RIBBON FROM THE BOARD Make sure to: • Peel the ribbon back carefully, sometimes the adhesive is so bad, the ribbon ends up tearing and the whole dock assembly will have to be replaced.
  • REMOVE THE PRESSURE ANTENNA SCREW Make sure to: • Keep the little black copper tipped swing arm with the screw that you are removing • Underneath the swing arm is the bottom speaker house pinion cable, and this metal arm keeps it held down and in place, so it is very important.
  • REMOVE THE SPEAKER HOUSING PINION Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove this cable, we do not want to use a flathead, as sometimes the pin head will come off if tugged to hard. • The hole that it attaches to can also be bent and misaligned which will make it hard to put it back on.
  • REMOVING THE TOP RIBBON PLATE Make sure to: • Remember that each one of these screws is a different size, and the 3 colors designate the smaller phillips head size, although a #00 will work perfectly, you do not want to strip them • When you remove the plate with the spudger, try to keep the layout of the screws correct, they all serve a purpose and cannot be
  • REMOVING THE CAMERA FROM THE BOARD Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the camera ribbon flex from its socket, sometimes if you pry to hard the flex ribbon will separate into two pieces, and will no longer function. • Pry it up, then use the flex ribbon to pull the camera out of its housing.
  • REMOVING THE VARIOUS RIBBON FLEX’S Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool, never use a flat head to remove these flex ribbons, they are delicate! • The Green marked ribbon is for the digitizer, pry upwards from the bottom • The blue marked ribbon is for the LCD, pry up from the right. • The yellow ribbon is for the front facing camera pry up from the left side. • The red ribbon is for the headphone jack/volume button, pry up from the left • The orange ribbon is for the power button, and is the smallest, pry up from the left.
  • REMOVING 1ST METAL BRACKET SWING ARM Make sure to: • Remove all the ribbon flex cables first, then unscrew and pull the black swing arm lever up, and make sure to keep • This is used to help keep the headphone jack, and the board in the correct position so DO NOT LOSE IT!
  • REMOVE THE GROUNDING CLIP FROM THE BOARD Make sure to: • Keep ahold of this piece, it may seem minimal, but like always it servers a purpose. • Easy step, pull it out and move on.
  • REMOVE THE WI-FI ANTENNA PIN Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool to pull the little pin up from its hole-lock, do not use a flathead, we do not want to damage the pin head.
  • REMOVE THE TAPE COVERING THE TOP BOARD SCREW Make sure to: • Use a pair of tweezers to uncover the screw that is on the top left of the board to the right of the where the camera housing is. • Try not to tear It completely off, but just enough to uncover it and get to the head of the screw. • Sometimes if the phone has been repaired, it wont be there, if it isnt, skip this step.
  • REMOVE THE BRACKET SCREW AND UNCOVERED SCREW Make sure to: • Start on the left side, this screw was just uncovered, and is sometimes missed by technicians when trying to remove the board. • The screw on the right uses a flat head to be removed, and acts as the threading for one of the ribbon plate screws.
  • REMOVE THE REMAINING MAINBOARD SCREWS Make sure to: • Keep the correct layout of the screws, making sure that everything is in place and will not be too difficult when putting the phone back together. • The one of the vibrate motor is integral, and can sometimes be missed place • Don’t forget to check the water indicators for any signs of pink! TAKE NOTES!
  • REMOVING THE BOARD FROM THE FRAME Make sure to: • Start from the bottom and lift upward, you may need to remove the vibrate motor cylinder during this step, just use a flat head to pry it off without bending the copper point springs or damaging the motor. • Pull up and then pull the board towards the bottom direction.
  • REMOVE THE COPPER CAMERA GROUNDING FINGER Make sure to: • Not to lose this little copper point, its for the camera housing and helps for grounding the camera to the mid-frame.
  • REMOVE THE VIBRATE MOTOR Make sure to: • Remove this if you havent already done so. It is glued to the frame with adhesive and sometimes can be difficult to remove, but needs to be in a specific position when reassembled. • Not bend the copper spring plate, if you notice there is an alignment box that shows where it will be place during reassembly.
  • REMOVE THE SPEAKER HOUSE SCREWS AND ALIGNMENT PLATE Make sure to: • Remove the plate and screw on the left side, the black plastic plate is used to correctly position the speaker house, and needs to be there during reassembly, the left screw is larger so keep it with the plate. • Organize the screw layout correctly next to the speaker house piece.
  • REMOVE THE SPEAKER HOUSING ASSEMBLY Make sure to: • Pull upwards and remove the housing carefully, and make sure that the pinion for the antenna has been removed so it does not tear or rip when pulling it out.
  • REMOVING THE JAW LOCK RIBBON FLEX Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool to pull the FPC (jaw Lock) in an upwards position so that we can pull the home button ribbon flex out of the lock,
  • REMOVING THE HOME BUTTON RIBBON Make sure to: • Always use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon out, grab it from the large square section, as this will give you the best leverage, and the odds of tearing the ribbon decrease. • Pull it out, and make sure to leave it in a place that wont let it get trapped underneath the new dock when you install
  • REMOVING THE RUBBER MICROPHONE HOUSING Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool or rubber tipped tweezers set, as this needs to remain intact so that we can move it over to the new dock assembly microphone.
  • REMOVE THE DOCK ASSEMBLY SCREWS Make sure to: • Remember that these two screws are the same size, and are designed to hold the dock assembly to the mid frame. • Make sure not to strip them, sometimes they can lock up from moisture, so go slow, keep it tight and keep them together.
  • REMOVING SPACING BRACKET FOR ASSEMBLY Make sure to: • Check if this is their, sometimes if the phone is repaired, this part is missing. • Remove with a pair of tweezers and place it near the speaker housing and screws • This is used to keep the assembly from coming loose from pulling the charging cable in and out of the connecter pins.
  • REMOVE THE DOCK ASSEMBLY COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Remove the adhesive from the bottom of the assembly with a plastic pry tool, or the spudger. • There is adhesive under the left had side, and two points of adhesive on the bottom right side that hold it down in an addition to the two screws.
  • REPLACING THE ASSEMBLY WITH A NEW DOCK • Now that we have the whole dock out, make sure to adhere the rubber microphone housing over the new microphone on the bottom right hand side. • Make sure to put the FPC (jaw) lock in the upwards position • Align the dock correctly with the connecter input hole, making sure to push down on the new adhesive to make it stick into place. Test it by holding it down with your left hand, thumb pushing on the metal rectangle where the connecters are, and try to push a charging cable into the connector. • Now that you have it aligned, the home button inside of the lock, the micrphone casing inside of the right hand housing caddy, and the adhesive pushed down., screw the two dock assembly screws in and re test the charging cable again. • Follow the disassembly backwards, making sure to put the left side bracket in place before assembly the speaker housing.
  • REPLACING IPHONE 4 GSM POWER BUTTON AND SENSOR/EARPIECE RIBBON
  • REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS Make sure to: • Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe screws. • Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
  • REMOVING THE BACK COVER Make sure to: • Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the plastic frame around the edge of the cover. • Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not damage or scratch the back in any way.
  • REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back cover, these are what help keep the back in place. • As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET Make sure to: • Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
  • REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY Make sure to: • Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to be re-soldered on. • Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming out of the left side. • Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not want the battery to be completely misshapen. • Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
  • REMOVE THE SIM CARD TRAY Make sure to: • Remove the sim card tray properly, you do not want to push to hard and bend or break the metal lever on the inside. • Always do this before attempting to take anything else out of the phone, the sim card tray also works to hold the board into place, and you can damage the copper points if removal is too hard.
  • REMOVING THE BOTTOM DOCK RIBBON SCREWS AND THE PLATE ASSEMBLY. Make sure to: • Remember that the screw on the left that connects to the mid-frame is different from the one on the right, it is smaller and has a flatter head. • When removing the screws, make sure to keep them aligned with the plate on their appropriate sides so you do not forget which side is which.
  • REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON Make sure to: • Carefully remove the dock ribbon, and bend it VERY slightly to the left and out of the way, as sometimes it will get in the way when removing the other pieces. • DO NOT USE A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER, this can have negative effects and cause the dock ribbon to stop working, better bust out the
  • REMOVE THE ANTENNA AND SPEAKER PIN Make sure to: • Not use a flathead! We do not want to damage the pinion or the pin hole that holds it into place. • When you remove it, pull it up and to the right and out of the way.
  • REMOVE THE LEFT SIDE DOCK SCREW Make sure to: • Remove the screw carefully, and remember that it is a completely unique screw from the others inside of the assembly of the phone, keep it with the other screws that connect the board to the mid frame, in order from bottom to the top.
  • REMOVE THE BOARD SOCKET HEAT PLATE Make sure to: • Remember that each one of these screws Is unique and serves a specific purpose on the integrity of the build of the phone. • When removing, start from the left, and then pull the plate out carefully, aligning it to the layout of the screws, so you do not forget what point they go in, they are not all the same size either.
  • REMOVE THE PLATE THAT COVERS THE TOP BOARD SOCKETS AND THE ASSEMBLY Make sure to: • Carefully pull up and down, making sure not the bend the plate in anyway, as bending it can cause the LCD assembly to sit improperly inside of the phone. • Place it in a neat and organized manner with the screws so that everything lines up correctly for re-assembly.
  • REMOVING THE CAMERA AND RIBBON FLEX Make sure to: • Carefully pull up on the ribbon flex, sometimes the two layers can come undone, and cause the camera to come apart, and you will not be able to put it back on. • Clean the camera as you pull it out with compressed air for dust. • DO NOT USE A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER.
  • REMOVE THE MID BOARD SCREWS Make sure to: • Check the other water damage indicator strip, it actually covers the screw and will need to stay on the screw, so carefully unscrew it without damaging the indicator • This is the main screw for holding the board to the mid-frame
  • REMOVING THE TOP RIBBON FLEX’S Make sure to: • Remember that this part is a little tricky, each ribbon flex has a specific duty, and needs to stay in the correct order in order to reassembly the phone. • The red ribbon flex is for the digitizer ribbon, pry upwards from the bottom • The orange ribbon is the LCD ribbon, pry up from the bottom right side • The yellow ribbon is for the Head phone jack and the volume key ribbon, pry from the top • The green ribbon is for the top microphone/on-off button, pry from the top
  • REMOVE THE TOP BOARD BRACE SCREW Make sure to: • Use a flathead mini screwdriver, this one is very integral to keeping the board in place, and is also used for a thread for one of the screws for the plate that covers the main ribbons and the sockets.
  • REMOVING THE IPHONE 4 BOARD FROM FRAME Make sure to: • Remember that the sim card tray must be removed before taking the board out. • Life from the bottom and up, making sure not to damage the copper prong that is on the top of the board. • Once you life it up from the bottom, pull it back from the bottom to
  • REMOVE THE VIBRATE MOTOR Make sure to: • Remember that the red screw is a longer screw that holds the vibrate motor and the headphone jack in the same place at the same time. • The orange circled screw holds the vibrate motor to the metal frame so that it doesn’t shake around inside of the phone.
  • REMOVE THE EARPIECE FROM THE RIBBON Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool to remove the silver rectangle earpiece, there should be two copper prongs that point upwards, they connect to points on the board that make the earpiece activate. • There is adhesive on the bottom, so go slow so that we can reuse it again, if not get ready to use it again.
  • REMOVING THE POWER BUTTON CRADLE SCREWS Make sure to: • Gently unscrew these, sometimes the plastic cradle can snap if you unscrew them incorrectly, and we need it for the new ribbon when we install the power button. • Keep the screws organized, these are different from every other screw set.
  • REMOVE THE POWER BUTTON CRADLE Make sure to: • Check the alignment of the metal pop cap, sometimes the home button doesn’t need to be replace, the pop cap just needs to be realigned with the metal home button, then it will work again. If it looks even and straight, pull up on the cradle and keep it out of the rear case.
  • REMOVE THE HEADPHONE JACK ASSEMBLY Make sure to: • Use a pair of tweezers to evenly pull the head phone jack out of its position, sometimes when you pull it out, the ribbon may break, this is fine, the new assembly has a new headphone jack. • Try not to pry the rest of the ribbon up at this point, only the headphone jack
  • PULL THE ADHESIVE FOR THE COMPLETE RIBBON OUT OF THE REAR CASE Make sure to: • Pull from the strip right below the gold additional microphone block that is to the left of the had phone jack and above the front facing camera. • There is a tight space, and the adhesive on the bottom of the micrphone makes it hard to pull out, but use a pair of tweezers and get a really good grip on it and pull the rest of the ribbon up.
  • REMOVE THE POWER BUTTON CRADLE FROM THE RIBBON Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool to remove the pop cap assembly and all of the adhesive from the power button cradle in order to reuse the cradle. • Make sure you clean all of the adhesive from the cradle, we don’t want any extra pressure or added left on the pop cap, or the power button will feel very hard to push.
  • PUTTING TOGETHER THE NEW POWER BUTTON RIBBON AND REINSTALLING AND REASSEMBLY • Now that we have the power button cradle remove from the old ribbon, lets wrap the new ribbon power button around the cradle, making sure that all of the plastic adhesive covers are removed so that the pop cap will sit on the cradle perfectly. • Align it in the direct center of the cradle so that when the power button hits the pop cap, it slaps back into place correctly • Make sure to push the actual steel power button all the way through the whole that way it will sit correctly. • Take the power button assembly ribbon with the power button cradle, screw the two power button screws in place, and push down on the adhesive so that the cable is glued to the rear case • Make sure to slide the top microphone into the caddy where it was remove, pushing it all the way down with a pry tool so that it does not rip. • Now that we have the assembly in place, cut a small square of adhesive out and place it under the earpiece and push it down into the correct position, making sure the copper prongs are pointing up • Now we can continue to reassemble the phone, working backwards from the disassembly step. • DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING! ONCE INSTALLED MAKE SURE THE POWER BUTTON FEELS PERFECT!
  • REPLACING IPHONE 4 CDMA POWER BUTTON RIBBON
  • REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS Make sure to: • Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe screws. • Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
  • REMOVING THE BACK COVER Make sure to: • Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the plastic frame around the edge of the cover. • Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not damage or scratch the back in any way.
  • REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back cover, these are what help keep the back in place. • As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET Make sure to: • Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
  • REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY Make sure to: • Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to be re-soldered on. • Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming out of the left side. • Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not want the battery to be completely misshapen. • Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY RIBBON SCREW Make sure to: • Notice the difference in the layout of the CDMA iPhone 4, it has a completely different setup because it does not have a GSM slot for the simcard and instead uses a chip for its cellular connection services • Be carefule not to strip this screw, and keep it next to the battery and
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY SOCKET ASSEMBLY Make sure to: • Gently pry it up, you do not want it to separate the socket and the socket connect from the board at the same time, as this will render the device inoperable. • Never use a flathead, always use the spudger or a plastic pry tool
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY Make sure to: • Use the provided plastic strip to pry the battery out, sometimes you may have to use the wedge end of the spudger in order to pull it out, as the adhesive can sometimes be a little tough to work with. • Make sure to keep the battery in its original shape, we don’t want it to cause the back to sit incorrectly on the back of the phone.
  • REMOVING THE DOCK SCREWS AND COVER PLATE Make sure to: • Remove the screws carefully, the one on the right side screws into another style of screw and can sometimes become jammed if you vigorously unscrew the top one • Keep the plate and screws on their respectable sides when removing, they are only for this plate and cannot be used for anything else.
  • REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON FROM BOARD Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the ribbon from the socket, sometimes if you pull up to hard, or with a flathead, the ribbon will be stuck by adhesive and then tear when you take it off. • Pull it up and to the left to take it out of your way as you work on the ot
  • UN-PEEL THE DOCK RIBBON FROM THE BOARD Make sure to: • Peel the ribbon back carefully, sometimes the adhesive is so bad, the ribbon ends up tearing and the whole dock assembly will have to be replaced.
  • REMOVE THE PRESSURE ANTENNA SCREW Make sure to: • Keep the little black copper tipped swing arm with the screw that you are removing • Underneath the swing arm is the bottom speaker house pinion cable, and this metal arm keeps it held down and in place, so it is very important.
  • REMOVE THE SPEAKER HOUSING PINION Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove this cable, we do not want to use a flathead, as sometimes the pin head will come off if tugged to hard. • The hole that it attaches to can also be bent and misaligned which will make it hard to put it back on.
  • REMOVING THE TOP RIBBON PLATE Make sure to: • Remember that each one of these screws is a different size, and the 3 colors designate the smaller phillips head size, although a #00 will work perfectly, you do not want to strip them • When you remove the plate with the spudger, try to keep the layout of the screws correct, they all serve a purpose and cannot be
  • REMOVING THE CAMERA FROM THE BOARD Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the camera ribbon flex from its socket, sometimes if you pry to hard the flex ribbon will separate into two pieces, and will no longer function. • Pry it up, then use the flex ribbon to pull the camera out of its housing.
  • REMOVING THE VARIOUS RIBBON FLEX’S Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool, never use a flat head to remove these flex ribbons, they are delicate! • The Green marked ribbon is for the digitizer, pry upwards from the bottom • The blue marked ribbon is for the LCD, pry up from the right. • The yellow ribbon is for the front facing camera pry up from the left side. • The red ribbon is for the headphone jack/volume button, pry up from the left • The orange ribbon is for the power button, and is the smallest, pry up from the left.
  • REMOVING 1ST METAL BRACKET SWING ARM Make sure to: • Remove all the ribbon flex cables first, then unscrew and pull the black swing arm lever up, and make sure to keep • This is used to help keep the headphone jack, and the board in the correct position so DO NOT LOSE IT!
  • REMOVE THE GROUNDING CLIP FROM THE BOARD Make sure to: • Keep ahold of this piece, it may seem minimal, but like always it servers a purpose. • Easy step, pull it out and move on.
  • REMOVE THE WI-FI ANTENNA PIN Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool to pull the little pin up from its hole-lock, do not use a flathead, we do not want to damage the pin head.
  • REMOVE THE TAPE COVERING THE TOP BOARD SCREW Make sure to: • Use a pair of tweezers to uncover the screw that is on the top left of the board to the right of the where the camera housing is. • Try not to tear It completely off, but just enough to uncover it and get to the head of the screw. • Sometimes if the phone has been repaired, it wont be there, if it isnt, skip this step.
  • REMOVE THE BRACKET SCREW AND UNCOVERED SCREW Make sure to: • Start on the left side, this screw was just uncovered, and is sometimes missed by technicians when trying to remove the board. • The screw on the right uses a flat head to be removed, and acts as the threading for one of the ribbon plate screws.
  • REMOVE THE REMAINING MAINBOARD SCREWS Make sure to: • Keep the correct layout of the screws, making sure that everything is in place and will not be too difficult when putting the phone back together. • The one of the vibrate motor is integral, and can sometimes be missed place • Don’t forget to check the water indicators for any signs of pink! TAKE NOTES!
  • REMOVING THE BOARD FROM THE FRAME Make sure to: • Start from the bottom and lift upward, you may need to remove the vibrate motor cylinder during this step, just use a flat head to pry it off without bending the copper point springs or damaging the motor. • Pull up and then pull the board towards the bottom direction.
  • REMOVE THE COPPER CAMERA GROUNDING FINGER Make sure to: • Not to lose this little copper point, its for the camera housing and helps for grounding the camera to the mid-frame.
  • REMOVING THE EARPIECE ASSEMBLY Make sure to; • Use a plastic pry tool to remove the adhesive, you don’t want to use a metal flathead screw driver, the ESD charge can sometimes damage the earpiece and then it wont work. • Try not to damage the copper prongs, pry up the adhesive and pull the earpiece up and out of the rear case.
  • REMOVE THE POWER BUTTON CRADLE SCREWS Make sure to: • Gently unscrew these, we do not want to crack or break the cradle, and we also don’t want to strip the screws or damage the threads on the rear case. • Pull them out and keep them together, they are the perfect size for the power button and we don’t want to use any other screws for the
  • REMOVE THE VOID BRACKET FOR THE EARPIECE Make sure to: • Remove this by prying up with a plastic pry tool, it is used to keep the earpiece centered so that it hits the contact on the board correctly for it to work, try not to snap or break it, it is connected to the rear case and is sometimes not necessary to remove.
  • REMOVE THE RIBBON ASSEMBLY FROM THE REAR CASE Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool to get underneath the square ribbon block that the earpiece sits on, this is glued to the rear case and needs to be pulled up all at once, once you get all the adhesive unstuck, the whole ribbon should pop off the rear case.
  • REMOVE THE POP CAP FROM THE POWER BUTTON CRADLE Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool to remove the pop cap sensor from the power button bracket, we need to reuse the bracket in order to correctly be able to put the new power button into place
  • REPLACING THE NEW POWER BUTTON RIBBON • Now that we have the power button cradle, the earpiece and the ribbon separated from the actual phone, were going to go in and add the cradle to the new pop cap, put the new ribbon in place, and then put down the ear piece. • Take the new ribbon and take off all the protective plastic that covers the adhesive points, then adhere the new power button cap to the cradle, make sure it is aligned correctly, keeping it in the middle horizontal and center vertically. We want to make sure that when you push down the power button everything snaps back into place correctly. • Now insert the power button cradle first, securing the two screws on each side, then press down on the black square adhesive that the earpiece sits on top of • Make sure all of the adhesive points are pressed down hard on the rear case • Then inset the earpiece, making sure the copper prongs are lifted in the air, put the board inside the phone and reassemble it follow the disassembly steps backwards.
  • REPLACING IPHONE 4 GSM VIBRATE SWITCH AND VOLUME KEY FLEX RIBBON
  • REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS Make sure to: • Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe screws. • Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
  • REMOVING THE BACK COVER Make sure to: • Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the plastic frame around the edge of the cover. • Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not damage or scratch the back in any way.
  • REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back cover, these are what help keep the back in place. • As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET Make sure to: • Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
  • REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY Make sure to: • Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to be re-soldered on. • Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming out of the left side. • Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not want the battery to be completely misshapen. • Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
  • REMOVE THE SIM CARD TRAY Make sure to: • Remove the sim card tray properly, you do not want to push to hard and bend or break the metal lever on the inside. • Always do this before attempting to take anything else out of the phone, the sim card tray also works to hold the board into place, and you can damage the copper points if removal is too hard.
  • REMOVING THE BOTTOM DOCK RIBBON SCREWS AND THE PLATE ASSEMBLY. Make sure to: • Remember that the screw on the left that connects to the mid-frame is different from the one on the right, it is smaller and has a flatter head. • When removing the screws, make sure to keep them aligned with the plate on their appropriate sides so you do not forget which side is which.
  • REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON Make sure to: • Carefully remove the dock ribbon, and bend it VERY slightly to the left and out of the way, as sometimes it will get in the way when removing the other pieces. • DO NOT USE A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER, this can have negative effects and cause the dock ribbon to stop working, better bust out the
  • REMOVE THE ANTENNA AND SPEAKER PIN Make sure to: • Not use a flathead! We do not want to damage the pinion or the pin hole that holds it into place. • When you remove it, pull it up and to the right and out of the way.
  • REMOVE THE LEFT SIDE DOCK SCREW Make sure to: • Remove the screw carefully, and remember that it is a completely unique screw from the others inside of the assembly of the phone, keep it with the other screws that connect the board to the mid frame, in order from bottom to the top.
  • REMOVE THE BOARD SOCKET HEAT PLATE Make sure to: • Remember that each one of these screws Is unique and serves a specific purpose on the integrity of the build of the phone. • When removing, start from the left, and then pull the plate out carefully, aligning it to the layout of the screws, so you do not forget what point they go in, they are not all the same size either.
  • REMOVE THE PLATE THAT COVERS THE TOP BOARD SOCKETS AND THE ASSEMBLY Make sure to: • Carefully pull up and down, making sure not the bend the plate in anyway, as bending it can cause the LCD assembly to sit improperly inside of the phone. • Place it in a neat and organized manner with the screws so that everything lines up correctly for re-assembly.
  • REMOVING THE CAMERA AND RIBBON FLEX Make sure to: • Carefully pull up on the ribbon flex, sometimes the two layers can come undone, and cause the camera to come apart, and you will not be able to put it back on. • Clean the camera as you pull it out with compressed air for dust. • DO NOT USE A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER.
  • REMOVE THE MID BOARD SCREWS Make sure to: • Check the other water damage indicator strip, it actually covers the screw and will need to stay on the screw, so carefully unscrew it without damaging the indicator • This is the main screw for holding the board to the mid-frame
  • REMOVING THE TOP RIBBON FLEX’S Make sure to: • Remember that this part is a little tricky, each ribbon flex has a specific duty, and needs to stay in the correct order in order to reassembly the phone. • The red ribbon flex is for the digitizer ribbon, pry upwards from the bottom • The orange ribbon is the LCD ribbon, pry up from the bottom right side • The yellow ribbon is for the Head phone jack and the volume key ribbon, pry from the top • The green ribbon is for the top microphone/on-off button, pry from the top
  • REMOVE THE TOP BOARD BRACE SCREW Make sure to: • Use a flathead mini screwdriver, this one is very integral to keeping the board in place, and is also used for a thread for one of the screws for the plate that covers the main ribbons and the sockets.
  • REMOVING THE IPHONE 4 BOARD FROM FRAME Make sure to: • Remember that the sim card tray must be removed before taking the board out. • Life from the bottom and up, making sure not to damage the copper prong that is on the top of the board. • Once you life it up from the bottom, pull it back from the bottom to
  • REMOVE THE VIBRATE MOTOR Make sure to: • Remember that the red screw is a longer screw that holds the vibrate motor and the headphone jack in the same place at the same time. • The orange circled screw holds the vibrate motor to the metal frame so that it doesn’t shake around inside of the phone.
  • REMOVE THE BLACK TAPE COVERING THE VOLUME KEY SCREWS Make sure to: • Check to see if it is there first, sometimes if the phone has already been repaired, it is missing. • It is not integral to the functionality, and if it is ripped or torn, it will not degrade the product or assembly in any manner, but always try to keep it intact for reassembly.
  • REMOVE VIBRATE SWITCH ASSEMBLY SCREWS AND VOLUME KEY PLATE SCREWS Make sure to: • Keep track of each screw, the top red one near the vibrate switch is integral to keeping the switch in and aligned correctly. • The orang and yellow screws are different sizes from everything else as well, and the bottom two screws are the same size, all of them are needed to keep everything aligned correctly, DON’T
  • REMOVING THE VIBRATE SWITCH BRACKET COVER Make sure to: • Grab a pair of tweezers and pull this bracket off, its what keeps the vibrate switch in place and popped out so that it can be easily switch on and off. • Make sure not to bend the lever arm, and look at the direction it which it faces, this will help you remember how to put it back on.
  • REMOVE THE RIBBON ASSEMBLY OUT Make sure to: • Grab the headphone jack with the pair of tweezers, this is the best point to pull the whole ribbon off, because we are replacing the whole ribbon, don’t be scare if any of it rips, just make sure to take it off and make sure the placement is clean for the new ribbon.
  • REMOVE VIBRATE SWITCH BRACKET CRADLE AND THE METAL VOLUME BUTTON FRAME Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool to remove it from the actual vibrate switch, it’s the cradle behind the metal rectangle with the black dongle (the actual vibrate switch) We need the cradle to be perfectly cleaned for the new ribbon • Do the same thing for the metal volume button frame, just peel of the pop caps • We need to reuse both of these pieces for the new ribbon assembly.
  • INSTALLING THE NEW RIBBON AND REASSEMBLING THE PHONE • • • • • Now that we have vibrate switch cradle, take the new ribbon and make sure that the switch is on the bottom part of the rectangle, that way when we put the new bracket in and put the actual vibrate switch into place, it will correctly move up and down. The new ribbon assembly should have adhesive on the back of the actual switch, make sure you press it into the metal cradle correctly, pushing down hard so that it doesn't’t come off when we assemble the phone. A tiny spot of glue, literally the size of a pin head can be used as well if your worried it will come off. Wrap the new pop caps for the volume keys around the metal frame, keeping them in their correct position, the new ribbon will guide you on how it sets on the bracket. Now take the vibrate switch bracket, the one that goes on the outside of the vibrate switch cradle, grab the upper screw we took off, put it on the end of your screw drive and through the arm screw hole, hold the vibrate switch into place and screw the metal bracket into place, then do the next screw. Test the vibrate switch and make sure it goes on nice and tight, but maneuvers fluidly up and down, if it doesn't’t, take it out and do it again Now assemble the screws for the volume key, sit the headphone jack into place, making sure it is glued down all the way. Now reassemble the phone working backwards and make sure to double check all the buttons before continuing
  • IPHONE 4 CDMA VIBRATE SWITCH AND VOLUME KEY RIBBON REPLACEMENT
  • REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS Make sure to: • Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe screws. • Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
  • REMOVING THE BACK COVER Make sure to: • Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the plastic frame around the edge of the cover. • Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not damage or scratch the back in any way.
  • REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back cover, these are what help keep the back in place. • As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET Make sure to: • Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
  • REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY Make sure to: • Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to be re-soldered on. • Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY Make sure to: • Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming out of the left side. • Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not want the battery to be completely misshapen. • Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY RIBBON SCREW Make sure to: • Notice the difference in the layout of the CDMA iPhone 4, it has a completely different setup because it does not have a GSM slot for the simcard and instead uses a chip for its cellular connection services • Be carefule not to strip this screw, and keep it next to the battery and
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY SOCKET ASSEMBLY Make sure to: • Gently pry it up, you do not want it to separate the socket and the socket connect from the board at the same time, as this will render the device inoperable. • Never use a flathead, always use the spudger or a plastic pry tool
  • REMOVE THE BATTERY Make sure to: • Use the provided plastic strip to pry the battery out, sometimes you may have to use the wedge end of the spudger in order to pull it out, as the adhesive can sometimes be a little tough to work with. • Make sure to keep the battery in its original shape, we don’t want it to cause the back to sit incorrectly on the back of the phone.
  • REMOVING THE DOCK SCREWS AND COVER PLATE Make sure to: • Remove the screws carefully, the one on the right side screws into another style of screw and can sometimes become jammed if you vigorously unscrew the top one • Keep the plate and screws on their respectable sides when removing, they are only for this plate and cannot be used for anything else.
  • REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON FROM BOARD Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the ribbon from the socket, sometimes if you pull up to hard, or with a flathead, the ribbon will be stuck by adhesive and then tear when you take it off. • Pull it up and to the left to take it out of your way as you work on the ot
  • UN-PEEL THE DOCK RIBBON FROM THE BOARD Make sure to: • Peel the ribbon back carefully, sometimes the adhesive is so bad, the ribbon ends up tearing and the whole dock assembly will have to be replaced.
  • REMOVE THE PRESSURE ANTENNA SCREW Make sure to: • Keep the little black copper tipped swing arm with the screw that you are removing • Underneath the swing arm is the bottom speaker house pinion cable, and this metal arm keeps it held down and in place, so it is very important.
  • REMOVE THE SPEAKER HOUSING PINION Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove this cable, we do not want to use a flathead, as sometimes the pin head will come off if tugged to hard. • The hole that it attaches to can also be bent and misaligned which will make it hard to put it back on.
  • REMOVING THE TOP RIBBON PLATE Make sure to: • Remember that each one of these screws is a different size, and the 3 colors designate the smaller phillips head size, although a #00 will work perfectly, you do not want to strip them • When you remove the plate with the spudger, try to keep the layout of the screws correct, they all serve a purpose and cannot be
  • REMOVING THE CAMERA FROM THE BOARD Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the camera ribbon flex from its socket, sometimes if you pry to hard the flex ribbon will separate into two pieces, and will no longer function. • Pry it up, then use the flex ribbon to pull the camera out of its housing.
  • REMOVING THE VARIOUS RIBBON FLEX’S Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool, never use a flat head to remove these flex ribbons, they are delicate! • The Green marked ribbon is for the digitizer, pry upwards from the bottom • The blue marked ribbon is for the LCD, pry up from the right. • The yellow ribbon is for the front facing camera pry up from the left side. • The red ribbon is for the headphone jack/volume button, pry up from the left • The orange ribbon is for the power button, and is the smallest, pry up from the left.
  • REMOVING 1ST METAL BRACKET SWING ARM Make sure to: • Remove all the ribbon flex cables first, then unscrew and pull the black swing arm lever up, and make sure to keep • This is used to help keep the headphone jack, and the board in the correct position so DO NOT LOSE IT!
  • REMOVE THE GROUNDING CLIP FROM THE BOARD Make sure to: • Keep ahold of this piece, it may seem minimal, but like always it servers a purpose. • Easy step, pull it out and move on.
  • REMOVE THE WI-FI ANTENNA PIN Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool to pull the little pin up from its hole-lock, do not use a flathead, we do not want to damage the pin head.
  • REMOVE THE TAPE COVERING THE TOP BOARD SCREW Make sure to: • Use a pair of tweezers to uncover the screw that is on the top left of the board to the right of the where the camera housing is. • Try not to tear It completely off, but just enough to uncover it and get to the head of the screw. • Sometimes if the phone has been repaired, it wont be there, if it isnt, skip this step.
  • REMOVE THE BRACKET SCREW AND UNCOVERED SCREW Make sure to: • Start on the left side, this screw was just uncovered, and is sometimes missed by technicians when trying to remove the board. • The screw on the right uses a flat head to be removed, and acts as the threading for one of the ribbon plate screws.
  • REMOVE THE REMAINING MAINBOARD SCREWS Make sure to: • Keep the correct layout of the screws, making sure that everything is in place and will not be too difficult when putting the phone back together. • The one of the vibrate motor is integral, and can sometimes be missed place • Don’t forget to check the water indicators for any signs of pink! TAKE NOTES!
  • REMOVING THE BOARD FROM THE FRAME Make sure to: • Start from the bottom and lift upward, you may need to remove the vibrate motor cylinder during this step, just use a flat head to pry it off without bending the copper point springs or damaging the motor. • Pull up and then pull the board towards the bottom direction.
  • REMOVE THE COPPER CAMERA GROUNDING FINGER Make sure to: • Not to lose this little copper point, its for the camera housing and helps for grounding the camera to the mid-frame.
  • REMOVE THE UPPER ANTENNA WRAP Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool to remove the top antenna wrap that sits on top of the headphone jack. • Do not use a flat head screw driver, we need this to stay intact, go slow and be careful
  • REMOVE THE TOP HEADPHONE JACK SCREW Make sure to: • Remove the screw and lay it out in the correct position, this one is specifically sized for holding the headphone jack into place.
  • REMOVE THE ANTENNA CONTACT POINT ABOVE THE HEADPHONE JACK Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool to remove the antenna contact point that is at the top right of the phone, directly to the right of headphone jack. • Try not to rib or damage the antenna contact point.
  • REMOVE THE MICROPHONE PLATE FROM THE SMALL CADDY ON THE REAR CASE. Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool to remove the top microphone plate from its metal caddy, its ok if it rips off, the new ribbon we are replacing it with has it installed on it as well • Make sure to clean all the adhesive out of the caddy so that the new microphone will sit nice and snug inside of it.
  • REMOVE THE OUTER ANTENNA SCREW Make sure to: • Remove the headphone jack assembly first with a plastic pry tool • Remove this screw gently, we do not want to strip or damage the threading on the inner case, without this the iPhone will experience signal loss for data and voice calls. It is located to the right of the headphone jack after you pull it out.
  • REMOVE THE ENTIRE OUTER ANTENNA CABLE Make sure to: • Pull this out in one piece, we do not want it to rip as we are going to use it again when we put the new ribbon assembly together. • Keep it next to the outer antenna screw we undid.
  • REMOVE THE VIBRATE SWITCH AND VOLUME KEY SCREWS Make sure to: • Keep all these screws together, they are all the same size and are imperative when putting the vibrate switch assembly and the volume key assembly when we put the new ribbon inside of the phone.
  • PULL THE VIBRATE SWITCH/VOLUME KEY/HEADPHONE JACK ASSEMBLY RIBBON OUT Make sure to: • Pull it cleanly off, sometimes using a pry tool first to bring the adhesive up first helps. • Make sure the rear case is cleaned so when we put the new ribbon it, it will sit correctly inside of the phone
  • PULL THE VIBRATE SWITCH CADDY FROM THE REAR CASE Make sure to: • Pull this all the way out, we are going to reuse the metal caddy that the vibrate switch sits in, so make sure not to bend or break the caddy.
  • PULL THE ENTIRE CABLE ALL THE WAY OUT Make sure to: • Not rip or tear the ribbon and pull it all the way out. • We do not want any of the ribbon pieces to be in the place where we are going to put the new ribbon in.
  • REMOVE THE METAL VOLUME KEY FRAME Make sure to: • Use a plastic pry tool to remove the volume pop caps from the metal frame, we are going to reuse it so make sure it is cleaned of adhesive so nothing will cause tightness on the volume keys when pushed.
  • REMOVE THE VIBRATE SWITCH FROM THE CADDY Make sure to: • Remember that this one is setup a little different then the iPhone 4 GSM model, there isn’t a metal caddy cover that holds it into place, so the metal caddy itself is what keeps the vibrate switch in its proper position.
  • ASSEMBLING THE NEW CABLE AND INSTALLING • Now that we have the entire cable out of the phone, the outer antenna removed, the vibrate switch caddy and the volume key frame, we can assemble the new ribbon and install it • There should be adhesive on the volume key pop caps as well as the vibrate switch caddy. • Install the volume key frame making sure to keep it in the correct direction, or the pop caps will not sit correctly, look at the volume key frame disassembly picture to get a better view. • Use a small, pin sized amount of glue to put the vibrate switch caddy onto the new vibrate switch, on top of the adhesive that is already on the new ribbon • Align the vibrate switch correctly, making sure it is in the down position when inserting it, then put the screw in and test the vibrate switch to make sure it is tight, in place, and doesn't’t feel too tough. • Now install the headphone jack again, making sure to slide the microphone tab in just to the left of it, it should be connected already to the headphone jack • Now secure the volume key frame and test the buttons! • Reassemble the phone working backwards from the disassembly steps.