Hemisphe                                                                                           heres  JANUARY 2013THRE...
YOUR                           COMPLIMENTARY                               COPY                                           ...
JANUARY                                                                            DISPATCHES                             ...
IN WITH THE NEW                                                                                               EDITOR IN CH...
THREE PERFECT DAYS                              DOHAIn just a few years, the capital                                  of Q...
83                                                                                             DAY ONE                    ...
THREE PERFECT DAYS || DOHA            REFLECTING HERITAGE            The I.M. Pei–designed Museum            of Islamic Ar...
DOHA || THREE PERFECT DAYS                                                                                                ...
THREE PERFECT DAYS || DOHA                                                                                                ...
DOHA || THREE PERFECT DAYS    PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTYp080_90_HEM0113_3PD.indd 85                                ...
THREE PERFECT DAYS || DOHA            you spend an evening in the company of            jazz legend (and the club’s artist...
DOHA || THREE PERFECT DAYS                                                         HUMP DAY A gaggle                      ...
THREE PERFECT DAYS || DOHA            on, but you’re lucky enough to see some         a dune to watch one of the most dram...
DOHA || THREE PERFECT DAYS                                                                                                ...
THREE PERFECT DAYS || DOHA                                                                                                ...
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Ak photography hemispheres mag 3 pd-doha janv2013

  2. 2. YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY 62 THE HEMI Q&A With a new bestseller- to-be out this month, James Patterson talks books, Hollywood and pet peeves 66 THE THRILL OF THE CHASE How a Santa Fe art collector’s supposed dying wish has turned into a treasure hunt of epic proportions WELCOME ABOARD CEO LETTER A word from Jeff Smisek 12 72 OUT WITH THE OLD VOICES 14 A message to flyers The best new things to see in 2013, from a CONNECTIONS 15 Dr. Seussian garden in What’s new at United Singapore to Picasso’s long-awaited return to Paris AURELIE KORADY 80 THREE PERFECT DAYS: DOHA Cultural riches and exotic diversions await in Qatar’s booming capital city HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JANUARY 2013 7p007-08_HEM0113_TOC.indd 7 30/11/2012 10:04
  3. 3. JANUARY DISPATCHES GLOBETROTTING 17 News and notes from around the world ROAD TRIP 25 DOWNLOAD A Spanish expedition in OUR FREE IPAD the sporty Mini Cooper S APP FROM convertible follows in ITUNES Don Quixote’s hoofprints SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES For a free subscription to our FOOD & DRINK 29 monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to Meet Sergio Herman, HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM the Netherlands’ first rock-star chef STAY 35 facebook.com/UnitedHemispheres From Maine to Milan, the month’s hottest hotels twitter.com/hemispheresmag CULTURE THE MONTH AHEAD 39 What to read, watch and listen to in January THE FAN 47 How the Super Bowl went from mere spectacle to one of the best showdowns in sports BRIGHT IDEAS “Wild Things” Wild HOW IT’S DONE 51 host Dominic st The train of tomorrow Monaghan gets onaghan gets off the ground apped wrapped up in in Japan his work INDUSTRY 53 Could Detroit’s strategy for beating joblessness become a national model? TECH 57 Calling for a return to Silicon Valley’s pioneering heyday ENTERTAINMENT AND INFORMATION Movies, Television and 97 Audio Programming ABOUT THE COVER: Doha’s skyline Crossword and Sudoku 106 06 as seen from the fountain courtyard Route Maps, Customs & 111 11 of the I.M. Pei– Immigration, Our Fleet, Terminal designed Museum Diagrams, Safety & Travel of Islamic Art, photographed by Assistance, MileagePlus and Aurelie Korady Alliances & Partnerships WRITE TO US: editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com Food & Beverages 136 36 ! 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 8 JANUARY 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMR1_p007-08_HEM0113_TOC.indd 8 11/12/2012 14:28
  4. 4. IN WITH THE NEW EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Keohane WHAT DO A CUTTING-EDGE Canadian planetar- EXECUTIVE EDITOR Chris Wright MANAGING EDITOR Jennifer L. Johnson ium, an underwater “suburb” in Mexico, a Singapore SENIOR EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler park straight out of Dr. Seuss and the world’s big- FASHION EDITOR Nino Bauti EDITOR AT LARGE Sam Polcer gest Ferris wheel have in common? Not to mention ART DIRECTOR Christine Bower-Wright a Parisian trove of Picasso paintings, a tank of sharks ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Jeff Quinn in Cleveland and a whole museum dedicated to PHOTO EDITOR Julien Tomasello ABBA in Sweden? CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jay Cheshes, Alyssa Giacobbe, The answer: They’re all included in “Out With the Mike Guy, Michael Kaplan, Jon Marcus, Old” (page 72), a special travel package that rounds Adam K. Raymond, Cristina Rouvalis, Grant Stoddard up some of the best new things to see and do in CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS 2013—from Amsterdam to Beverly Hills to Rio. Christine Berrie, Peter James Field, Alex Nabaum, Peter Oumanski, When you’re done poring over the latest and James Provost, Steve Stankiewicz greatest from around the world, we’ll introduce you to a man who hid a treasure chest EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR worth millions in Santa Fe, explain why Super Bowl games have suddenly go en so Michael Keating U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR exciting, diagnose Silicon Valley’s hopeless fixation on apps, and try to figure out, with Orion Ray-Jones help from mega-selling author James Pa erson, how, exactly, a person can write more Ink, 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, than 100 novels (a resolution of ours). And from us to you, best wishes for a safe and Brooklyn, NY 11201 prosperous new year. —The Editors Tel: +1 347-294-1220 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR YOU MAY NOW USE YOUR ELECTRONIC DEVICES! Stephen Andrews Download Hemispheres’ free iPad app and get every issue, plus VP, STRATEGY AND BUSINESS special bonus features like additional photos, stories and video. DEVELOPMENT Andrea Alexander DIRECTOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS Greg Caccavale NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGERS Andrea Chase-Ward, Kristina Kurz, Scott Stone, Anna Szpunar, Banu Yilmaz U.S. TERRITORY MANAGERS CONTRIBUTORS Jack Miller, Jeff Miller, Lonnie Milligan, Lisa Nelson, Ryan Sadorf, Ketan Solanki HAWAII Robert Wiegand EUROPE Sarah Orme ASIA Jacqueline Ho LATIN/SOUTH AMERICA Daniela Cateriano MEXICO Alejandro Salas BRAZIL Olivier Capoulade PRODUCTION MANAGER Joe Massey Tel: +1 678-553-8091 PRODUCTION CONTROLLERS Josette Berksteiner, Stacy Willis MARKETING MANAGER Nikkole Wyrick MARGIE GOLDSMITH GEOFFREY GRAY AURELIE KORADY is a New York–based is a contributing editor is a French freelance Ink (sales), Capital Building, 255 E. Paces Ferry Rd., Ste. 400, adventure, luxury and for New York magazine photographer based Atlanta, GA 30305 lifestyle journalist who and the author of in Qatar, where she Tel: +1 888-864-1733 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 has traveled to 120 Skyjack: The Hunt for frequently exhibits her Ink countries and written D.B. Cooper. He’s been work. While Korady CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal about them all. Though spending a lot of time in enjoyed the adventure PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie she didn’t find Forrest Spain lately, wandering of shooting “Three HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this Fenn’s buried treasure the provinces in search Perfect Days: Doha” publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices while in Santa Fe (“The of adventure à la Don (page 80)—including and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Thrill of the Chase,” Quixote—though he a wild “dune bashing” Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither page 66), she did vastly prefers a zippy expedition—the people United, its subsidiaries nor affiliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these discover Frito pie, and Mini Cooper convertible she met were the real facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a bought enough Native to an old nag named highlight. “Everyone’s so professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines American jewelry to fill Rocinante (“Knight welcoming,” she says. or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or her own treasure chest. Shift,” page 25).   “I love this country!” its products or services by United Airlines. 10 JANUARY 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMp010_HEM0113_Contribs.indd 10 11/12/2012 14:51
  5. 5. THREE PERFECT DAYS DOHAIn just a few years, the capital of Qatar has gone from desert backwater to major player in global tourism, offering cultural riches, top-notch cuisine and a bo omless supply of bling BY ALISTAIR CRIGHTON PHOTOGRAPHS BY AURELIE KORADY 80 JANUARY 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMp080_90_HEM0113_3PD.indd 80 30/11/2012 10:47
  6. 6. 83 DAY ONE A treasure island of traditional art, lingering over chai and a shisha, an evening of classic American jazz 86 DAY TWO Wandering the ruins at Zubara, high-velocity camels, wild four-wheeling in the desert 88 DAY THREE Shopping in a Venetian fantasy- land, Boléro by the bay, a local seafood feast RIDING HIGH A camel tender atop his mount at Al Shahaniya Camel Racetrack; left, shopping mecca Souq Waqif HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2012 81p080_90_HEM0113_3PD.indd 81 30/11/2012 10:47
  7. 7. THREE PERFECT DAYS || DOHA REFLECTING HERITAGE The I.M. Pei–designed Museum of Islamic Art; top right, an array of mezes at Tajine; bottom right, glitz for sale in Msheireb QATAR HAS COME A LONG WAY in a short More recently, Qatar has been on a development time. Having gained its independence only four binge that’s transformed it into one of the most decades ago, this small spit of desert jutting vibrant and a ractive spots in the Gulf. into the Persian Gulf now boasts the world’s With the soccer World Cup heading to Qatar highest per-capita GDP, and is punching well in 2022, the capital city’s revival is being stepped above its weight in the fields of hospi- up. A er spending years in the shadow WANT MORE? tality, finance and international sport. Download of nearby Dubai, Doha is emerging as our iPad app. It’s a far cry from the 1930s, when a a destination to be reckoned with: a Japanese invention—cultured pearls—devas- place where travelers can immerse themselves tated the pearl diving industry on which Qatar’s in the best of Middle East culture while knowing economy relied. Then the discovery of fossil fuels that a hot nightspot, hip restaurant or fleet of here in the 1940s reversed its fortunes overnight. matching Rolls-Royces is never far away. 82 JANUARY 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMp080_90_HEM0113_3PD.indd 82 30/11/2012 10:47
  8. 8. DOHA || THREE PERFECT DAYS DOHA BY THE NUMBERS POPULATION 796,947 ESTIMATED PERCENTAGE OF POPULATION MADE UP OF EXPATRIATES 85 AREA, IN SQUARE MILES 51 NATURAL GAS RESERVES IN QATAR, IN CUBIC FEET (NO. 3 IN THE WORLD) 896 TRILLION PER-CAPITA GDP (NO. 1 IN THE WORLD) $104,300 VALUE OF WORLD’S MOST EXPENSIVE ARTWORK (CEZANNE’S THE CARD PLAYERS, BOUGHT BY QATAR’S ROYAL FAMILY) $250 MILLION NUMBER OF STADIUMS TO BE BUILT FOR THE 2022 FIFA WORLD CUP DAY ONE | The morning sun wakes you Souq Waqif is still sleeping, so you earlier than expected, amplified as it is by catch a cab to the Museum of Islamic Art, 9 the wall-to-wall shininess of your suite. which rises like a cubist sculpture from Al Jasra Boutique Hotel, a neo-traditional the uncannily turquoise waters of the property in Doha’s Souq Waqif market, Persian Gulf. Set on a small artificial NUMBER OF NEW HOTEL ROOMS is luxurious even by the Gulf ’s “seven island, the I.M. Pei–designed building pays NEEDED TO HANDLE star” standards, an opulence literally homage to timeless Islamic architecture, THE WORLD CUP INFLUX reflected in the mirror finish applied to but with a modernist twist. You pause to every surface. watch dhows, traditional wooden sailboats, 10,000+ Having located and donned your sun- bobbing between the museum and the glasses, you indulge in a bedside treat of glistening skyline, then head inside. espresso and chocolate-dipped straw- It’s easy to lose yourself among the LENGTH, IN MILES, OF PROPOSED berries, then amble down to the hotel museum’s cultural riches: ancient, finely WORLD’S-LONGEST BRIDGE restaurant for breakfast: a hearty bowl of cra ed rugs, artworks and sundry imple- BETWEEN QATAR AND BAHRAIN foul (cooked beans served with piquant ments, many of which date back to the condiments) and more strong coffee. time when the Islamic world led the way 24.85 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JANUARY 2013 83p080_90_HEM0113_3PD.indd 83 30/11/2012 10:47
  9. 9. THREE PERFECT DAYS || DOHA MAD STASH A royal’s personal museum pushes the boundaries of taste If the Museum of Islamic Art’s holdings are the most famous of Qatar’s art collections, then Sheikh Faisal bin Qassim Al Thani’s personal stash is perhaps the most infamous. Located on the edge of the city, the sheikh’s namesake museum keeps irregular hours, but for those who make it inside, a real eye-opener awaits. Over the years, the sheikh has amassed a huge treasure trove (there are tales of cargo containers of purchases arriving every month), and items on display encompass everything from U.S. muscle cars to GREAT CATCH Above, grilled prawns at L’wzaar Seafood Market; opposite, clockwise from top left, Islamic manuscripts, nautical traditional pigeon towers in Katara; a selection of water pipes, called shishas; the Al Jasra Boutique equipment, rugs, stamps, coins, Hotel’s over-the-top lobby; a sampling of Souq Waqif’s wealth of traditional crafts bowling balls and virtually any- thing else that can be collected. in artistic and scientific development. The A short taxi ride takes you to the Arab The museum’s centerpiece, intricate weapons on display, meanwhile, Museum of Modern Art, also known as though, is an array of Saddam remind you of the region’s corresponding Mathaf, which is stacked with excellent Hussein memorabilia, which military might. examples of Arab modernist art (you are includes items of the Iraqi Exiting the museum, you swing right particularly taken with the “Tea With and stroll the palm-lined Corniche, a Nefertiti” exhibition, which showcases dictator’s clothing. It’s a puzzling, favorite gathering spot for Doha society Egyptian art from the age of the pharaohs even unnerving thing to behold. in the cooler months. You stop at a café for to the Arab Spring). Another cab whisks you As one visitor was overheard to a restorative chai—sweet, spiced tea—then through the city’s high-rise monuments to wonder: Why? Of course, that cab it back to Souq Waqif, where you navi- wealth and on to West Bay Lagoon, home same visitor continued to gaze gate a warren of shops hawking everything to the second hotel of your stay. upon these artifacts for a good from gaudy fabrics to sticky sweets. Wiz- The St. Regis Doha is a paragon of Gulf while, effectively answering her ened porters thread their barrows through bling: a fleet of Rolls-Royces and Jaguars own question. formations of black-clad matrons, watched outside, acres of marble within. by officers of the mounted Amiri Guard, You push through the sprays of resplendent in their white kaffiyehs and aromatic flowers and emerge gold-framed aviator sunglasses. into the gli ering lobby, where For lunch, you go for adventurous: baby a female harpist who surely camel tagine at the stylish Moroccan eatery moonlights as a supermodel Tajine, located on Souq Waqif’s main drag. plinks melodiously. Soon you Served with a mixture of mezes, it’s rustic are approached by a phalanx and very tasty—think mutton rather of liveried staff, one of them than lamb but leaner, richer and, thanks your butler, and are led to your to hours of stewing, far more tender. gold-tinted room. Though Doha has a reputation for being If you want a drink in Doha, fast-paced, locals have made an art form the big hotels are pre y much of going nowhere slowly. Accordingly, you your only option. So, after a linger at one of the cafés lining the main sunset dip in the Olympic- street, where you spend a sedentary hour size pool, you head for the St. smoking a shisha, an aromatic water pipe, Regis’ Jazz at Lincoln Center GRAND BIZARRE Inside the Sheikh and playing “guess the nationality” as a Doha, a new club launched by Faisal bin Qassim Al Thani Museum diverse parade of people passes by. its New York namesake, where 84 JANUARY 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMp080_90_HEM0113_3PD.indd 84 30/11/2012 10:47
  10. 10. DOHA || THREE PERFECT DAYS PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTYp080_90_HEM0113_3PD.indd 85 30/11/2012 10:48
  11. 11. THREE PERFECT DAYS || DOHA you spend an evening in the company of jazz legend (and the club’s artistic direc- tor) Wynton Marsalis. Between sets, the musicians mingle with the audience, and you’re joined for dinner by saxophonist Walter Blanding, who, having watched you demolish pla ers of succulent crab cakes and lobster, declares his own entrée to be “the best darn burger I’ve ever had.” After dinner, you down a Sazerac—a New Orleans twist on the old-fashioned— and marvel at this cosmopolitan nightspot, smack-dab in the middle of the Middle East. A Sazerac or two later, the mood light- ing seems even moodier. Time for a snooze. DAY TWO | It’s another dazzler outside, so you grope your way to a bathroom bigger than many hotel suites and hit the shower. Then you pop downstairs to one of the St. Regis’ 10 on-site eateries, Vine, for a perfectly prepared chili-infused omelet. You’ll need the extra zing, you figure, for the experience that awaits. Driving in Doha isn’t for the faint- hearted, but it’s a must if you want to go beyond the city limits. So you rent a car and hurtle north toward Al Khor. While Qatar’s industrial second city is hardly an obvious destination, you want to see its wharf, which turns out to be well worth the 45-minute trip. The hulking dhows here were built using age-old methods in the nearby shipyard, and they still ply ancient trade routes. The captain of one scruffy vessel invites you to join him on deck for a glass of tea. You take him up on it (much to the consternation of his crew), and are entertained with what you hope are salty tales of the high seas but, given the language barrier, might be a commen- tary on the state of cricket in his home country of India. A 50-minute drive northwest takes you through an arid, relentlessly flat landscape, the monotony occasionally broken by an oasis or a pre y mosque. You’re heading for a local oddity: Zubara, an abandoned 18th-century se lement that’s become a sort of al fresco museum. Upon arriving, you stroll among its ruined houses, then tour the nearby Zubara Fort, an imposing early-20th-century structure that must have been an unhappy post in the days before air conditioning. Turning back toward Doha, you stop at Al Shahaniya Camel Racetrack, about 20 miles outside the city. There’s no race 86 JANUARY 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMp080_90_HEM0113_3PD.indd 86 30/11/2012 12:27
  12. 12. DOHA || THREE PERFECT DAYS HUMP DAY A gaggle of camels at Al Shahaniya; top right, the opulent Villaggio mall; bottom right, the St. Regis Doha HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JANUARY 2013 87p080_90_HEM0113_3PD.indd 87 30/11/2012 12:27
  13. 13. THREE PERFECT DAYS || DOHA on, but you’re lucky enough to see some a dune to watch one of the most dramatic a tab that outstrips the GDP of some small practice runs. The surly animals achieve a sunsets you’ve ever seen. Your inner peace countries. All in all, then, a very good night. remarkable pace, geed on by bizarre robotic abates, however, when the driver takes you jockeys. A local breeder tells you these ani- roaring through the dunes once again. It’s DAY THREE | A lie-in and breakfast in matronic riders are a Qatari invention, and much scarier in the dark. bed—eggs Benedict (no ham)—steel you have replaced the child jockeys that only a Having piloted your rental car back to for your first activity of the day. At mid- few years ago were the norm. Doha, you clear the sand from your ears morning, you’re heading to the ’burbs for Though you get back on the road, a truly before heading to the W Hotel for dinner that most Qatari of pastimes: shopping. arresting spectacle soon has you Doha can’t compete with the hi ing the brakes. The sprawl of retail wonderland of Dubai, but refineries just south of Doha is Villaggio is a step in that direction. like a distorted reflection of the With its swank boutiques and city’s skyline. You gawp for a canal-traversing gondolas, the while at the flaming towers cut- Venetian-themed mall is hugely ting through giant dunes, then popular with locals, who shop make for your lunch destination: for brands so exclusive you’ve Lagoon Ristorante, located at the never heard of them, with price perfectly manicured Sealine tags you’re not likely to forget. Beach Resort. You devour an You pop into Gondolania, the excellent linguine al gamberi, yet in-mall theme park, and perch you don’t tarry a erward—your beside its ice rink to take in the driver from a local adventure unlikely spectacle of a Qatari outfit has arrived to take you hockey game. Then it’s back to dune bashing in a 4x4. downtown, where a different sort NOTEWORTHY IMPORT Getting into the swing For the next hour or so, as the driver of things at Jazz at Lincoln Center Doha of retail experience awaits. negotiates near-vertical off-road terrain, Most of Msheireb, part of the old city you are able to form only two thoughts: at the chic Market by Jean-Georges, where center, is in the process of being rebuilt. “ouch” and “eek.” It’s fun, but you and your you plump for an exquisite fontina and The areas that have escaped demolition ra ling bones are happy to disembark at black truffle pizza, washed down with a are some of the most colorful in town—a the Inland Sea, a picturesque spot where dra Hoegaarden. Next, you beeline it to clu er of markets selling everything from billowing dunes plunge into an inlet of the Crystal, the W’s studiously hip nightclub, fruit-and-veg to $5 “Rolexes.” You hit the Persian Gulf. A er a quick dip, you climb and dance into the wee hours, racking up Gold Souq, where you deck yourself out in LOCAL KNOWLEDGE THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD Lana Shamma Nicholas Wilson Yasmine Kassem EVENTS/PUBLICITY MANAGER MARKETING CONSULTANT MARKETING EXECUTIVE “One of Doha’s hidden finds is “Taking in a local football match “The café at the Museum of a kitschy antiques shop called is an experience. Qatari men are Islamic Art Park is one of the Champs-Élysées. It’s stacked with crazy about soccer. The 2022 coolest places in the city to hang stuff like Arabic-language Coca- World Cup should have a great out. It’s a fantastic spot Cola signs and vintage cameras. atmosphere.” for cultured conversation in an Don’t forget to haggle!” idyllic setting.” 88 JANUARY 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMR1_p080_90_HEM0113_3PD.indd 88 10/12/2012 12:00
  14. 14. DOHA || THREE PERFECT DAYS Opera House Katara Zubara L’wzaar Seafood Market Onaiza St. Al Khor Vintage Q ATA R Jazz at Lincoln Center Doha Remède Spa St. Regis Doha Al Shahaniya Doha a Camel Racetrack 0 1 mile Area of detail Lagoon Ristorante O m ar Inland Sea Al M uk Market by Jean-Georges ial St. ht Crystal ar Al St . M I s tiq ark hiy Al aS Persian Gulf t. t. o nS aw St. Ta he Al nic or Kha jlis C lifa Al Ma St. t. aS biy Ahm ra Al Jazira Al A hani St. ed in T Jasim Bin Hamad St. Bin Arab Museum dB me ham A of Modern Art Mo li St . Al ha Museum of Islamic Art K lee Co jS rni Al Rayya c he n Rd. t. Villaggio DAY ONE Souq Waqif Al Jasra Boutique Hotel DAY TWO Al Osra Tajine DAY THREE Al Saad St. Msheireb DAY ONE DAY TWO DAY THREE Al Jasra Boutique Hotel Souq Waqif, Al Khor Villaggio Al Waab Street, Doha; Doha; Tel. 974-4433-6666 Zubara Tel. 974-4413-5222 Museum of Islamic Art Doha Port, Al Shahaniya Camel Racetrack Msheireb Doha; Tel. 974-4422-4444 Al Shahaniya Al Osra Omar Al Mukhtar and Al Fayhaa Souq Waqif Off Grand Hamad Lagoon Ristorante Sealine streets, Doha; Tel. 974-4431-9941 Street, Doha Beach Resort, Mesaieed; Remède Spa St. Regis Doha, West Bay, Tajine Souq Waqif, Doha; Tel. 974-4476-5299 Doha; Tel. 974-4446-0300 Tel. 974-4435-5554 Inland Sea Katara West Bay, Doha; Arab Museum of Modern Art Market by Jean-Georges W Doha Tel. 974-4408-0000 Education City, off Al Luqta Street, Hotel & Residences, West Bay, Opera House Bldg. 16, Katara, Doha; Tel. 974-4402-8855 Doha; Tel. 974-4453-5135 West Bay, Doha St. Regis Doha West Bay, Doha; Crystal W Doha Hotel & Residences, L’wzaar Seafood Market Katara, West Tel. 974-4446-0000 West Bay, Doha; Tel. 974-4453-5135 Bay, Doha; Tel. 974-4408-0710 Jazz at Lincoln Center Doha Vintage St. Regis Doha, West Bay, St. Regis Doha, West Bay, Doha; Doha; Tel. 974-4446-0300 Tel. 974-4446-0000 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JANUARY 2013 • MAP BY STEVE STANKIEWICZ 89R1_p080_90_HEM0113_3PD.indd 89 10/12/2012 12:00
  15. 15. THREE PERFECT DAYS || DOHA FOR THE BIRDS Falconry offers a soaring reminder of tribal traditions In modern Qatar, falconry may be a status symbol for the wealthy, but the sport itself stems from an earthier concern: protein. The Bedouin of old trapped falcons in the autumn as they migrated across the Arabian Peninsula, using baited cages festooned with nooses to snare the raptors’ talons. They then trained the falcons and subsisted on the small game that the birds would capture. While these old methods are still used, most falcons in Qatar today are imported from AT THE OASIS Persian Gulf views Central Asia. At Doha’s Falcon at Sealine Beach Resort Souq, birds come with prices ranging from $275 for a puny or a handful of Mr. T–grade gold chains for a but tonight it’s Ravel, with the full orches- truculent male to $8,000-plus very reasonable sum. tra pulling out all the stops for Boléro. At for a prized female saker falcon. Msheireb also boasts some of Doha’s the intermission, you discuss the benefits There’s never a shortage of best ethnic restaurants. You decide to go of tax-free income with expat culture customers—as Qatar’s rampant Keralan at Al Osra, which does a mean fish vultures before you shuffle off to L’wzaar development continues, falconry curry, served with bu ery paratha and a Seafood Market, one of the many excellent is seen as a link to a way of life tangy mango lassi, all for less than the regional restaurants in Katara. You select that’s growing increasingly price of a knockoff luxury timepiece. a healthy-looking hamour—a local meaty remote. (And when birding From here, you scurry past the insis- fish—and six giant Omani prawns. They buffs aren’t buying these regal tent traders and retrace your steps to the come grilled to perfection and accompa- creatures, they’re taking pictures St. Regis, where you’re booked for a treat- nied by an array of delectable mezes. ment at its Remède Spa. With every muscle Finally, it’s back for a nightcap at Vintage, of them with their cellphones.) being expertly tended to, you’re back in the the upscale bar at the St. Regis, where the lap of luxury, and you’d be lying if you said Czech lager is served in iced pewter tan- it didn’t feel good. kards and the patrons look like extras from Next, it’s a five-minute stroll to Katara, Casino Royale. The la er turns out to be apt: a “cultural village” showcasing aspects Not only is Doha known as a diplomatic hot of Qatar’s heritage that risk being swept spot, but the bartender here shakes a very away by relentless modernization. You good martini. While the cheesy lounge act decline the chauffeured golf cart and diminishes the mystique a li le, you find wander among the mock-Arabian build- yourself nodding in time to the music as ings, pausing now and then to look in on you se le into one of the shadowy nooks. an art gallery. Having admired the lovely, This, you feel, bodes well for Doha’s future. blue-tiled central mosque for a bit, you Even the bad stuff is pre y good. move on to the Opera House, where you’ll catch the first half of a performance by the Abu Dhabi–based freelance writer ALISTAIR Qatar Philharmonic Orchestra. CRIGHTON has very nearly recovered from his The QPO is famed for incorporating afternoon of dune bashing. classical Arabic music into its repertoire, BOARDING PASS With the sparkling Persian Gulf on one side and a sprawling desert landscape on the other, Doha offers a dramatic getaway for adventurers, history buffs, culture aficionados and hard-core shoppers alike. United can take you to Qatar’s capital city with convenient one-stop service from Washington Dulles through Dubai. Before boarding, consider purchasing a day pass to relax in a spacious United Club; memberships are also available. For more information or to book your flight, go to united.com. 90 JANUARY 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMR1_p080_90_HEM0113_3PD.indd 90 10/12/2012 12:01