Masterclass: An Historic Perspective, presented by James Halliday and Andrew Caillard

An Historic Perspective James Halliday and Andrew Caillard, MW 22 nd September, 2010 Landmark Australia Tutorial

A unrepeatable narrative of Australian red winemaking
Very rare bottles – some possible the last few
Wine not represented – either in previous tasting or unprocurable
Possibly should have started at Maurice O’Shea and post-war
Misses out on the emerging Victorian boutique wine scene of the early 1970s/1980s. Virgin Hills/ Knights Granite Hills difficult to find
Other tastings will highlight innovation and philosophy across genres/regions
20 wines barely enough to tell the story
Craft to science to science & craft
Region to multi region to single vineyard to single vineyard/ multi vineyard and cross region.
Movement to alternative varieties
Many producers have moved on to alternative closures
Today Australia is making the finest wine in its entire history
An Historical Perspective

Max Schubert
Penfolds winemaking philosophy
Open Fermenters/header boards
American Oak
Barrel Fermentation
Ray Beckwith
pH and wine stability
Multi-vineyard site
90% Shiraz, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Most successful Penfolds wine of the 1950s, multi-show winner
The first vintage under Bin 95 – standardisation 1962
Increasingly rare but more available than other 1950s
1955 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage, Multi-regional South Australia

One of the greatest Australian wines ever made
Penfolds most successful show wine winning 19 trophies and 33 gold medals
A confluence of oenological, physical and philosophical achievement
A cross-regional blend exemplifying the emerging Penfolds house wine style and Cabernet/ Shiraz blend
Andre Tchelistcheff (1901-1994) “Gentlemen you will all stand in the presence of this wine!
Len Evans (1930 – 2006) “one of the great reds I cut my palate on.”
1962 Penfolds Bin 60A Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Kalimna Shiraz

Access Economics used the 1971 vintage as an economic yardstick
Don Ditter/ John Bird (celebrates 50 vintages in 2009) – volatile acidity adjusted down
Beat the best Rhone Valley wines at the Gault-Millau Wine Olympiad in Paris in 1979
An unusually low alcohol of around 11.5%
87% Shiraz 13% Cabernet Sauvignon
Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley), Barossa Valley, Magill Estate (Adelaide) Clare Valley, Coonawarra Blend
“ If you had to point to a wine which fulfilled the ambitions of Grange it would have to be the 1971.” – Max Schubert, 1993
1971 Penfolds Grange Hermitage, Multi-region South Australia

Roly Birks – 60 vintages
1974 Tony and Lita Brady – since 1981 Stephen George co-winemaker
Unique original 1890s plantings producing small berries with thick skins and a very high seed content
The fruit is vinified in stainless steel lined open fermenters. Maturation takes place in roughly 1/3 new oak
Old fashioned style; emphasis on fruit power, concentration and weight
Used to supply Penfolds during the 1920s to 1960s
tightly knit and incredibly muscular/ sinewy
“ An iron fist in velvet glove”
Overall mass of fruit sweetness complements the toughness of the wine
Strong identity of place and evokes a remarkable feeling of living history
Older vintages – Merchant bottlings ie Seabrooks. Very rare prior to 1980s
1976 Wendouree Shiraz, Clare Valley

1986 – “coming of age” for Australian red wine
Most famous Australian single vineyard wine
Ancient Gene Pool – 1860s
Prue and Stephen Henschke
A derivative of Penfolds winemaking philosophy, but evolution is different
Research and development of vineyard
- pH and colour
- Conservation of old vines
American Oak – but movement to combination of American/ French
Sustainable/ low input viticulture – but movement to Biodynamic Viticulture
Despite evolution “always speaks profoundly of place”
A foil to Penfolds Grange – Quintessential Eden Valley Shiraz
– Merchant bottlings ie Seabrooks. Very rare prior to 1980s.
1986 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley

Continues the theme of coming of age
A compelling example of single vineyard Hunter Valley Shiraz
Halliday/ Beeston/ Albert – purchased in 1978/ planted 1968
Pokolbin Cemetery never eventuated
Outclassed 86 Grange/ 86 Henschke Hill of Grace at a famous dinner
Recognised as “an all time great” at auction
Brilliant Hunter Vintage – rain/hail followed by dry weather all Feb/March
Two Tonne open fermenters, cap plunging, barrel ferment in New American oak puncheons (old and new)
Style has evolved to around 80% new French oak and 20% American
Shows the promise of Hunter Valley, the percolation of ideas and the foot print of a top contemporary single vineyard
Very rare now!
1986 Brokenwood Hermitage Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz, Hunter Valley

Established by the Late Dr John Middleton in 1972
First vintage 1976. Local Cult following in the 1980s
Quintet based Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot, and Petit Verdot
12.5 hectare vineyard planted on grey soils - sandy clay loams overlying degenerating Silurian shales
“ Never over 22°Brix, never below 7.5 g/l total acid and never higher than 3.3pH.”
Often picked early compared to others
The grapes are lightly crushed, totally de-stemmed
Fermented in open and closed fermenters with careful temperature control and frequent pumping over
Some extended maceration takes place
Oak maturation for two years
It does not always find favour with critics
Winemaking philosophy – based on science, craft, place and personality
Quintet is still sought with almost religious zeal
1990 Mount Mary Vineyard Lilydale Cabernets Quintet Cabernets, Yarra Valley

An important line of classic Hunter Valley Shirazes
Steeped in Australian Heritage
1959 Bin 1590 and 1965 Bin 3100 - two of the greatest wines of the era
Typically bottled at the end of the year in which they were made
Multi-vineyard sourcing predominantly on volcanic soils
No new oak until mid 1980s
Typically matured in a combination of new, one year-old and two-year old French and American oak for around 8 months
Some of the top performing wine collectables during the 1980s to mid 1990s
Medium bodied supple/ loose knit tannins and "velvety sheen."
Corporatisation lead to a diminishing voice
1991 The last of the classics?
11.5% Alc
"Like a sinner repenting on his deathbed, i have belatedly rediscovered the greatness of Hunter shiraz without brettanomyces and blessed with screw cap." James Halliday August 2010
1991 Lindemans Bin 8203 ”Burgundy”, Hunter Valley

1969 - land purchased by Dr Bill and Sandra Pannell
1973 - First vintage
1985 - Keith and Clare Mugford
Unirrigated and widely spaced 11.78 hectare vineyard - low input principals
gentle north-east facing slopes - sandy loams to a gravelly red/brown loams over clay
“ The quality and personality of wine is largely determined by vineyard".
The fruit was hand-picked, de-stemmed into open tanks, hand-plunged four times a day until completion of fermentation. At the end of vinification the wine macerated on skins for around 8 days. Maturation in French oak barriques (51% new Alliers) for 17 months
Evolution; Longer skin contact time during fermentation and a change in encépagement with the inclusion of cabernet franc, petit verdot and merlot; deeper colour, more perfumed and textured
Moss Wood is a strong proponent of the use of screw caps ; approximately 70% of the vintage is now bottled with this alternative closure
1995 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River

Trial vineyard planted in 1966 by Di and Dr Kevin Cullen
Vanya Cullen - prime winemaker since 1989
Early proponents of ecological sustainability
Central Wilyabrup sub-region of Margaret River
Now rebadged Diane Madeline Cabernet Merlot (since 2001)
One of Australia’s greatest cabernets with beautiful poise and tannin structure
Scott Henry trellis system critical to supple tannin structures
1995 a “tipping point”; Exemplifies sub-regional argument
Biodynamic Viticulture to “achieve greater individuality of site through working with nature rather than against it”
Between 10- 50% of the wine is partially barrel fermented
Rest given extended maceration before maturation in 30% new, tightly-grained French oak.
Freshness and complexity, structure and suppleness
Cullen is a strong advocate/early leader
Screw cap technology
Carbon neutral practices
Biodynamic viticulture
1995 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, Margaret River

1888 Block 42 – oldest cabernet plantings in the world
Alluvial sands, rich brown soils
Neither provided enough fruit nor the required consistency every vintage
Only released in 1948, 1952, 1953,1961,1963,1964, 1996 and 2004
Block 42 played a critical role in the development of Grange and Bin 707
1952 and 1953 Grange Cabernet
1963 Bin 64 Cabernet Sauvignon (100% Block 42) – Jimmy Watson Trophy
Stainless steel tanks/ wooden header boards to submerge cap
Fermentation completed in new American oak hogsheads. Approximately 13 – 18 months maturation
1996; a renewed focus on trial winemaking, new styles, individual vineyard character and new varietals
1996 Penfolds Block 42 Kalimna Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa Valley

Great Western very important during the 1950s and 1960s - Colin Preece
Cool Climate Viticulture during the 1980s; renewed focus on Victoria – many boutique wineries established
A synthesis and model of heritage and modern small winemaking
Best's Concongella Vineyard 1860s plantings at Great Western
15 Rows of dry grown Shiraz vines planted circa 1866
Open-fermented in small ‘tubs’ and then matured in a 50/50 combination of new and old American oak for approximately 24 months
First released in 1992 (to commemorate a century of winemaking at Best’s)
Sandy limey loams over deep clay, was acquired in 1920
Viv Thomson believes that there are two types of wines, “...talking wines and drinking wines”.
Great Western also known for Sparkling Burgundy
A strong swing back to Great Western during the 1990s
1996 Best’s Wines Thomson Family Great Western Shiraz Great Western, Grampians

One of Australia’s original international cult wines
Roman Bratasiuk
Robert Parker; 1994 vintage
Sparked controversy at home; propelled success in the US and Asia
Asian collectors ‘first growth’ in the same way as Le Pin and Valandraud
Changed the fine wine landscape irrevocably
simple goal of making “something equal to the best in the world”
Based on single vineyard and a laissez-faire winemaking approach
Old vines up to around 75 years old
Matured in 100% new French Barriques for 18 months
Derives from a mixture of clay, ironstone and gravely soils
Distinguished vineyard site to the nth degree
Enhanced the reputation of McLaren Vale
Inspired a whole generation of young winemakers
1996 Clarendon Hills Astralis Vineyard Syrah, McLaren Vale

Renamed Chris Ringland Shiraz
A scion of Robert O’Callaghan’s “Rockford School”
“ meticulous order, accumulation of experience and creativity”
Four to five hogsheads or 1500 litres
The "unusually thick skinned" dry grown shiraz (Same source material as Wendouree?)
Edge of the Barossa Valley, but technically in Eden Valley
The 1910 vines are planted in shallow skeletal granitic sandy loams over underlying clay moisture-holding podzols
Shiraz of unique "lushness and tremendous concentration". In some seasons the fruit will naturally ripen up to 17 ° Baumé yet retain excellent acid balance and flavour!
Open fermented and regularly pumped-over to extract colour, flavour and tannins
After draining and pressing through a traditional wooden basket press, fermentation is completed in 100% new French oak hogsheads
A period of up to 46 months oak maturation follows to achieve optimum complexity and balance between oak and fruit
Barrels alone believing that a laissez-faire approach will allow the tannins and oak to harmonise into the “landscape of the wine.”
1993 - 99points by Robert Parker lead to "discovery"
1996 Three Rivers Shiraz, Barossa Valley

Established by Brian Croser in the late 1970s
Petaluma captured the imagination of the wine world
Distinguished Vineyard sites
Originally Cabernet Shiraz – but opted for Merlot very early on
A leading Coonawarra wine; did much to define the character and potential of the region
The fruit is derived from the Evans Vineyard planted in 1969 on terra rossa
Purchased by Petaluma in 1978
“ Hand pruned, canopy trained, crop moderated, handpicked and dry land managed amongst a sea of mechanised convenience managed vineyards,"
Coonawarra has since gone through a major revamp of vineyards!
Closed headed down fermenters and roto-fermenters
Matured for 20 months in French oak
Very elegant and true to vineyard. Never fashion orientated
1998 Petaluma Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, Coonawarra

Traditional and contemporary winemaking practices
Embraces old vine Shiraz
Traditional tools of trade (a 1910 petrol-driven old Bagshaw crusher, basket press, open fermenters, etc) and the complementary nuances of American and French oak maturation
Early to recognise the future of regional definition, the importance of heritage and the conservation of both physical and viticultural resources
The fruit, from 60-140 year-old vines, is sourced from local growers in the Barossa including around Kalimna, Ebenezer, Moppa Springs, the Eden Valley and Central Barossa
Made in the classic mould with strong, ripe, blackberry and fine chocolate fruit characters, underscored by well-seasoned American and French oak and ripe tannins. The wines are beautifully balanced and have a reputation for freshness and aging. They develop paneforte/ dark chocolate aromas and further richness and complexity on the palate
Understated power, balance and minerality . The oak is never at the fore
Maturation style reminiscent of Barossa wines made during the 1950s and 1960s
1998 was a classic Barossa Vintage
1998 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz, Barossa Valley

Tim Kirk’s ethereal and evocative Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier
Profoundly captures the essence of country
Located in a gentle south facing fold of the cool southern tablelands at Murrumbateman near Canberra,
Unblinkered by the constraints of a technical background
Determined to “capture the wonder and beauty” of his own place
Mentors Bailey Carrodus and Phillip Jones!
Pre-fermentation macerations
Varietal blending options
High fermentation temperatures
Whole bunch fermentation
Extended post fermentation soaking
Partial barrel fermentation
New oak maturation
Now approximately a 93%/7% blend
Matured in one third new French oak to let “our cool climate profile fruit lead the wood.”
Hugely successful collector’s wine
2001 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, Canberra District

2004 is a waypoint in Coonawarra’s history. Many good wines made
Precision viticulture/ winemaking and contemporary thinking ie science and craft
120 acre vineyard – Balnaves supplier to other producers
The Tally – best parcels; not produced every year
Each block managed according to soil profile, clonal selection and trellis system
The vines are mostly machine pruned and harvested
Fermented in vinimatics and open-topped static fermenters. Some barrel fermentation
Maturation 18-22 months in fine grained new and used French oak barriques and hogsheads
“ Coonawarra reds are naturally very refined wines. Those elegant fine tannins are particularly associated with the local terra rossa and transitional soils. After 10 years, regardless of style, all Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignons show this common thread.”
2004 Balnaves of Coonawarra The Tally Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra

1880 - Mount Pleasant Old Hill Vineyard established by Charles King
1921 - purchased by legendary pioneer winemaker Maurice O’Shea
1932 - McWilliam's acquired a half share eventually securing full ownership
Based primarily on the 130-year-old Old Hill Vineyard
Selected parcels from Old Paddock Vineyard (planted in 1921)
Free-draining vineyards - heavy, rich, volcanic soils
Best of traditional and contemporary practices
Hand-picked in February, the grapes are crushed, cold soaked for up to 48 hours and then vinified for 12 to 14 days
Completion of fermentation in new (80%) French oak hogsheads
Maturation for around 20 months. Rack and Returns every six months
Maurice O'Shea Shiraz is a selection of the very best vineyard parcels and barrels
An example of evolutionary winemaking practices based on old vine stock and Hunter "heritage"
2006 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Maurice O’Shea Shiraz, Hunter Valley

Planted on decomposed granitic soils overlying a clay base
Vertical shoot position trellis system
Vintage in late March
The fruit is lightly crushed. A small proportion of stems is retained. few days cold soak
Vinification in three separate cuvees of equal volume; one is co-fermented with up to 5% Roussanne
Natural yeasts. Fermentation 14 to 18 days in “open-top wood” or concrete tanks
Pneumatic plunging to extract flavour and colour and maintain even temperatures
Maturation in new (40%) and seasoned Sirugue barriques
After bottling the wine is matured for 22 months in an underground cave
"The winemaking style is deliberately reductive with oxygen exposures kept to a minimum, and long lees contact.”
2006 Giaconda Warner Vineyard Shiraz, Beechworth

Coonawarra enjoying considerable fame in the early 1980s
Terra Rossa Soils - mid 1970s; 1,359 acres
- mid 2000s; 13,590 acres!
John Wade’s wine - a new and enduring genre of Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon
Top Parcels (1%) of fruit - rich concentrated style with 24-28 months oak maturation
Won Best Red Wine in Australia – Canberra National Wine Show
Hugely famous wine - spawned a new direction in fine wine making
Precursor to cult wine scene
1982 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra

Masterclass: An Historic Perspective, presented by James Halliday and Andrew Caillard

by Lucy Anderson on Sep 21, 2010

Accessibility

Upload Details

Usage Rights

2 Embeds 407

Statistics

Masterclass: An Historic Perspective, presented by James Halliday and Andrew Caillard — Presentation Transcript

http://www.landmark-wineaustralia.com	406
http://landmark.myzen.co.uk	1