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Clariant presentation at InnoCos Europe, Paris

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  • 1. Public Dr. Frederic Pilz Industrial & Consumer Specialties AD Personal Care 04.03.2011 19.02.2010Preserve more with less- increasing the performance of preservatives with Velsan® SC
  • 2. Velsan® SC hydrotrope, co-emulsifying agent for cosmetic formulations synergistic efficacy booster for preservative systems 100 % based on renewable resources Ecocert approved not listed as a preservative low odour, non volatile liquid cost effective alternative to 1,2-Octanediol or EthylhexylglycerinPublic – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 2
  • 3. Velsan® SC- the benefits hydrotrope, co-emulsifying agent for cosmetic formulations – multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with a HLB of approx. 11 (calculated) – Sorbitan Esters used since many years mild products with excellent toxicological profile synergistic efficacy booster for preservative systems – boosts efficacy of classical preservative like aromatic alcohols or organic acids synergistically – efficacy comparable to aromatic alcohols like Phenoxyethanol or Benzyl Alcohol – helps to lower the overall amount of classical preservatives needed for a safe preservation – resulting in milder formulations (less irritation or sensitization potential) – reduces negative side-effects of other antimicrobials: instability due to thinning, odour not listed as a preservative – in combination with other non-listed actives “preservative-free” claim possible – can be used globally without limitationsPublic – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 3
  • 4. Velsan® SC- the benefits 100 % based on renewable resources – Sorbitan via Sorbitol from wheat/corn and Octanoic acid from coco/palm oil – no formaldehyde-release, not halogenated low odour, non volatile liquid – does not cause odour even if used at high concentrations cost effective alternative to 1,2-Octanediol or Ethylhexylglycerin – efficacy comparable to other non-listed polyols – in contrast to these synthetic polyols, Velsan® SC is 100 % based on renewable resources pH independent – can be used within a wide pH range from pH 5-8 – excellent in combination with organic acids at a pH < 6 – excellent in combination with aromatic alcohols or e.g. MIT within pH 5-8Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 4
  • 5. Velsan® SC- properties amber coloured, medium viscous liquid OH O O – INCI: Sorbitan Caprylate O – heat stable up to 80 °C HO OH – easy to use, easy dosage – no impact on colour of formulation the green alternative – sustainable being based on renewable resources – readily biodegradable according to OECD 301 B Ecocert approved – applied for the NaTrue listPublic – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 5
  • 6. Synergism withAromatic Alcohols
  • 7. Velsan® SC- synergism with Phenoxyethanol and Benzyl alcohol MIC data of Velsan® SC in comparison to and combination with Phenoxyethanol andBenzyl Alcohol Velsan® SC Phenoxyethanol Velsan® SC, Benzyl Alcohol Velsan® SC, Benzyl Phenoxyethanol Alcohol 1:1 blend 1:1 blend Pseudomonas 1 0.25 0.25 0.125 0.5 aeruginosa Staphylococcus 0.25 0.125 0.063 0.25 0.032 aureus Candida albicans 0.016 0.032 0.008 0.063 0.008 Aspergillus 0.5 0.5 0.25 0.25 0.5 brasiliensis combination with Phenoxyethanol or Benzyl Alcohol helps to close the gap againstPseudomonas aeruginosa the often not wanted/unpleasant odour of Phenoxyethanol is reduced by combining it 1:1with Velsan® SC leading to an even better performancePublic – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 7
  • 8. Challenge Tests Challenge Tests shown were done in accordance to Ph.Eur. guidelines for topical preparations Log reduction criteria A, B and F are represented by colour codes A= B= F=Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 8
  • 9. Velsan® SC- recipe of Challenge Test shampoo AI 8146 basic shampoo formulation with low surfactant concentration added milk protein serves as a nutrient increasing the preservation hurdle recipe: Ingredients Weight-% Sodium Laureth Sulfate 13.70 Water ad 100 Coco-Betaine 6.00 Sodium Chloride 1.40 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein 1.00Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 9
  • 10. Velsan® SC- Challenge Test results of test shampoo AI 8146 Piroctone Olamine as the sole preservative is not strong enough at this concentrationto preserve this formulation adding Velsan® SC in 0.5 % intervals it helps to improve the test results and toachieve an overall pass of the formulation Preservative blend Test system Use conc. Efficacy at pH 5.5 Piroctone Olamine shampoo 0.05 % Piroctone Olamine + Velsan® SC ,, 0.05 % + 1.0 % Piroctone Olamine + Velsan® SC ,, 0.05 % + 1.5 % Piroctone Olamine + Velsan® SC ,, 0.05 % + 2.0 % unpreserved ,, --- Pseudom. Staph. Candida Asperg. A= B= F= aerug. aureus albicans bras.Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 10
  • 11. Velsan® SC- guide recipe for a mild shampoo BI 1164 Mild EO- and Sulfate-free shampooProcedure: A Hostapon® SG Surfactant 30.00 %I Mix the Sodium Cocyl Glycinate components of A Genagen® KB Co-Surfactant 25.00 % while heating to approx. 70°C. Coco-BetaineII Cool down to 30°C Genagen® CME Thickener 1.00 % and add the Cocoamide MEA components of B while stirring. Velsan® SC Synergist 2.10 % Sorbitan CaprylateIII Finally adjust the pH with C Water ad 100 % B Preservative q.s. Fragrance q.s.Viscosity: 2900 mPas C Citric Acid 25 % 0.70 %Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 11
  • 12. Velsan® SC- Challenge Test results of guide recipe BI 1164 guide recipe shampoo containing 2.10 % Velsan® SC as sole preservative fails onlyagainst Gram-negative bacteria Pseudomonas aeruginosa addition of Benzyl alcohol or Phenoxyethanol helps to close this gap Preservative blend Test system Use conc. Efficacy at pH 7.0 --- guide recipe shampoo --- Benzyl Alcohol ,, + 0.3 % ,, ,, + 0.6 % Phenoxyethanol ,, + 0.3 % ,, ,, + 0.6 % Pseudom. Staph. Candida Asperg. A= B= F= aerug. aureus albicans bras. overall use concentration of aromatic alcohols well below max. allowed limit no interference with perfume due to lower concentration of aromatic alcoholsPublic – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 12
  • 13. Synergism withOrganic Acids
  • 14. Velsan® SC- recipe of Challenge Test cream AVI 1998 leave-on cosmetics are in general more prone to a contamination by fungi as levelof water is reduced vs. rinse-off formulations and often the pH is lower natural based formulations are more challenging to preserve recipe: Ingredients Weight-% Ingredients Weight-% Water ad 100 % Simmondsia Chinensis Oil (Jojoba Oil) 1.3 % Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil (Grape seed oil) 6.0 % Lecithin 1.0 % Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 6.0 % Guar Gum 0.5 % Glycerin 3.0 % Xanthan Gum 0.5 % Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0 % Sodium Citrate ~ 1.0 % Glyceryl Stearate 3.0 % Tocopherol Acetate 0.5 % Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Almond oil) 2.5 % Allantoin 0.3 % Cetearyl Glucoside 2.0 % Panthenol 0.3 % Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil 1.5 % (Apricot Kernel Oil)Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 14
  • 15. Velsan® SC- Challenge Test results of test cream AVI 1998 excellent in combination with organic acids Challenge Test results in hard to preserve cream Preservative blend Test system Use conc. Efficacy at pH 5.0 Benzoic Acid cream 0.4 % Benzoic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 0.5 % Benzoic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 1.0 % Benzoic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 1.5 % Phenoxyethanol + 5 Parabens ,, 0.9 % Phenoxyethanol + 5 Parabens ,, 1.2 % unpreserved ,, --- Pseudom. Staph. Candida Asperg. A= B= F= aerug. aureus albicans bras. helps to preserve the formulation at natural skin pH reduced skin irritation potential if pH is close to skins neutral pH value of pH 4.9Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 15
  • 16. Velsan® SC- Challenge Test results of test cream AVI 1998 Challenge Test results of Anisic Acid (p-Methoxybenzoic Acid) in combination with Velsan® SC in hard to preserve test cream as both substances are not listed, “preservative-free” claim is possible Preservative blend Test system Use conc. Efficacy at pH 5.0 Anisic Acid cream 0.4 % Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 0.5 % Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 1.0 % Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 1.5 % Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 2.0 % unpreserved ,, --- Pseudom. Staph. Candida Asperg. A= B= F= aerug. aureus albicans bras. excellent combination of Velsan® SC with natural actives excellent preservation and still “preservative-free”Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 16
  • 17. Daycream with Coenzyme Q 10 A Hostacerin® SFO (Clariant) Emulsifier 2.00 % Sunflower Seed Oil Sorbitol Esters Velsan® CCT (Clariant) Emollient 4.50 % Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Cetiol® OE Dicaprylyl Ether 4.50 % Emollient Lanette® 22 Stabilizer 4.00 % Behenyl Alcohol Lanette® 18 Stabilizer 4.00 % Stearyl Alcohol Fucogel 1000 Skin Conditioning Agent 1.00 %I Heat mixture of components A Biosaccharide Gum-1 to 80°C. B Coenzyme Q 10 Active 0.10 %II Heat mixture of components C Ubiquinone to 80°C. C Water ad 100.00 %III Add B to I. Glycerin 10.00 % HumectantIV Add II to III and stir until cool. Hostaphat® CK 100 (Clariant) Emulsifier 0.60 %V Add D to IV. Potassium Cetyl PhosphateVI Finally adjust the pH carefully D Velsan® SC (Clariant) Synergist 1.50 % with E to 5.5. Sorbitan Caprylate p-Anisic Acid 0.40 % Fragrance E NaOH (10%) q.s. Neutralizer Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 17
  • 18. Challenge Test results Daycream withCoenzyme Q10 Challenge Test results for daycream preserved with Anisic Acid and Velsan® SC Although at 0.4 % use concentration of Anisic Acid the overall criteria are not changed, there was a further reduction in log scale Preservative blend Test system Use conc. Efficacy at pH 5.5 Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.3% + 1.0 % Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.3 % + 1.5 % Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 1.5 % unpreserved ,, --- Pseudom. Staph. Candida Asperg. A= B= F= aerug. aureus albicans bras.Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 18
  • 19. Comparison to 1,2-Octantediol andEthylhexylglycerin
  • 20. Velsan® SC- in comparison to other alternatives Velsan® SC is comparable to other alternatives found in the market gap against Pseudomonas aeruginosa can easily be closed by combination witharomatic alcohols Velsan® SC 1,2-Octanediol Ethylhexylglycerin Pseudomonas 1 0.25 0.25 aeruginosa Staphylococcus 0.032 0.125 0.125 aureus Candida albicans 0.2 0.2 0.1 Aspergillus 0.2 0.1 0.1 brasiliensisPublic – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 20
  • 21. Summary
  • 22. Velsan® SCVelsan® SC… is a synergistic preservative booster… works excellent in combination with classical preservatives e.g. aromatic alcohols,organic acids, other actives like Piroctone Olamine… reduces thinning and odour problems encountered with some actives without decreasinga safe preservation… is 100 % based on renewable resources… is approved by Ecocert… can be used for “preservative-free” cosmetics in combination with non-listed actives Velsan® SC is the multifunctional, economic synergistPublic – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with lessDr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 22