Aqua Bio Technology presentation at InnoCos Europe, Paris


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NEW INGREDIENTS PANEL SESSION What are the best new ingredients on the market today and do they live up to their claims? This session allows suppliers to showcase new products and gives you the chance to ask questions relating to them.
Fanny Coste, Sales and Marketing Director - Aqua Bio Technology

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Aqua Bio Technology presentation at InnoCos Europe, Paris

  1. 1. Aquabeautine XL™The Natural and Gentle Skin Refinisher 1
  2. 2. ABT 3Background 4Effects 5Efficacy 9Safety & Toxicity 19Sustainability 21Formulating with Aquabeautine XL™ 22Summary 25Appendix: Marketing a Fish Derivative 27
  3. 3. ABT ASA in Brief  Norwegian company founded by Professor Bernt Th. Walther (PhD) in 2000, an embryologist.  Listed on Oslo Stock Exchange (Axess) since January 2008 (ABT.OAX).  Develops & markets marine raw materials to the global personal care industry:  Truly novel,  100% natural & sustainably sourced from the pure and protected environment of Northern waters,  Proven safety and efficacy,  Patented globally. 3
  4. 4. Background  Salmon hatchery workers in Norway reported that their hands became soft and smooth after sorting salmon eggs despite the prolonged exposure to cold water.  Research interest: a unique serine endo-protease, the zonase™ enzyme, was first discovered in 1997 at the University of Bergen. 4
  5. 5. Hatching Fluid & Zonase™ Enzyme  The zonase™ helps the larva getting out of its eggshell by digesting thisfarmed Atlantic salmon tough, fibrous protein structure, but without harming the delicate baby fish.  ABT has patented the technology to extract Aquabeautine XL™ from the water after the hatching has taken place and the uses of hatching fluid in cosmetics. hatching fluid Aquabeautine XL™  The baby fish is unharmed in the process. 5
  6. 6. Zonase™ Effect on Human Skin In humans, the zonase™ degrades General structure of the epidermis corneodesmosomes, specific cell binding sites in the stratum corneum, similar to its natural substrate, and gently removes dead skin cells without harming the living skin cells beneath. The zonase™ is the only known non-selfdegrading and innocuous protease. Denecker G et al. J Cell Biol 2008;180:451-458 6
  7. 7. Aquabeautine XL™: A Unique Protein Solution The hatching fluid does not only contain the zonase™ enzyme, It is a potent mixture of diverse proteins with various skincare properties. zonase™ protease Zonase™ protease  Micro-exfoliation Aquabeautine Structural proteins XL™ Proteins and peptides from the eggshell hydrolyzed by glyco- structural the zonase™ enzyme proteins proteins  Skin conditioning Glycoproteins Secreted by specific cells of the fish larva  Anti-ageing effect, trigger skin repair/ rejuvenation 7
  8. 8. Aquabeautine XL™ Key Benefits With Aquabeautine XL™ Aquabeautine XL™ has 3 main effects on human skin: 3 2 1 1. Gentle exfoliation: The zonase™ enzyme delaminates the outer part of the stratum corneum. 2. Moisturizing effect: Other active components penetrate and transport Without Aquabeautine XL™ moisture and nutrition deeper into the stratum corneum. 3. Rejuvenating effect: The effect is caused by elevated differentiation of cells into keratinocytes. Skin models from SkinEthic treated with Aquabeautine XL™ for 6 hours at 30º C, Source: University of Bergen 8
  9. 9. Exfoliation 0% Aquabeautine XL™ 1 % Aquabeatine XL™ 10 % Aquabeautine XL™ Skin models (SkinEthic) stained with dancyl chloride (yellow color) treated with 0%, 1% and 10% of Aquabeautine XL™ in a cosmetic formulation for 10 hours  Apparent exfoliation effect in a concentration dependent fashion Source: University of Bergen 9
  10. 10. Comparative StudyAquabeautine XL™ vs. an AHA and a fruit enzyme Reconstructed Human Epidermis (SkinEthic), exposed for either 5 minutes, 12 hours, 24 hours or 48 hours to either 200 µl of:  1% Aquabeautine XL™,  5% Glycolic Acid (AHA),  1 mU/ml Bromelain (fruit enzyme),  dH2O (control), on the stratum corneum side. After exposure, cultures either fixated in 4% (w/v) paraformaldehyde in PBS at 4ºC or used in a MTT-assay. Results from immunohistochemistry are yet to come! 10
  11. 11. Comparative Study: SEM Images after 12h x 400 x 5000 x 15000 Deionised H2O Control 5% Glycolic Acid Damaged stratum corneum, skin corrosion. 1mU/ml Bromelain Desquamation by digestion of the cells envelope. 1% Aquabeautine XL™ Desquamation by shedding of intact corneocytes. Only the cell binding sites have been degraded.  Gentle micro-exfoliation 11Evaluation of effect of chemicals on human skin analogue - Source: University of Bergen
  12. 12. Comparative Study: SEM Images after 48h x 400 x 5000 x 15000 Deionised H2O Control 5% Glycolic Acid Heavily damaged skin: broken cell envelope with apparent cell skeleton. 1mU/ml Bromelain Fairly smooth skin surface but presence of rough patches. 1% Aquabeautine XL™ Ultra smooth skin surface, better than control.  Skin smoothing effect 12Evaluation of effect of chemicals on human skin analogue - Source: University of Bergen
  13. 13. Comparative Study: Histology after 24h/48h Control 5% Glycolic Acid 1mU/ml Bromelain 1% Aquabeautine XL™ (untreated) 24h 24h 24h Cell proliferation and differentiation.  Skin rejuvenating effect 48h Destroyed living cells, Minimal alterations in including epidermal the stratum basale and stems cells from the the stratum spinosum. stratum basale. Only Denser stratum granulosum, pyknotic nuclei left in a higher concentration of few places and the lamellar granules. anucleated cells matrix.  Improvement of skin barrier function The stratum corneum is highly hydrated in the 3 cases. 13Evaluation of effect of chemicals on human skin analogue - Source: University of Bergen
  14. 14. Apparent Effect on SunburnPreliminary study 0h 24 h 45 h 70 h 0% Aquabeautine XL™ 10 % Aquabeautine XL™ Redness of sunburns on a male test subject - Source: University of Bergen Redness subsiding in 24 hours and disappeared within 72 hours when treated with a cosmetic base cream containing Aquabeautine XL™.  Soothing effect 14
  15. 15. In Vivo Clinical Trial Single center, double blind, placebo controlled clinical trial is being conducted to evaluate the effectiveness and tolerance of topical skin treatments containing Aquabeautine XL™ in females with mild to moderate photodamaged facial skin. Duration :12 weeks, visits scheduled at baseline, Week 2, Week 6 and Week 12. Min. 90 female subjects, ages 40-65, N≥30 for 3 cells: 0% Aquabeautine XL™ (control), 1% Aquabeautine XL™ , 3% Aquabeautine XL™ in vehicle (skin lotion). Efficacy assessed on both sides of the face using: • Visual/tactile grading: clinical scoring for lines, wrinkles, mottled hyperpigmentation, laxity, clarity and roughness, for objective and subjective irritation, • Instrumentation: cutometer and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements, • Digital VISIA CR photographs, • Subject self-assessment questionnaires. Trial started on January 14th. Final results due in June! 15
  16. 16. In Vivo Clinical Trial: Results after 2 weeks Tactile Roughness Dullness Aquabeautine XL™ 1% Aquabeautine XL™ 3% Aquabeautine XL™ 1% Aquabeautine XL™ 3% Skin smoothness and Placebo Placebo clarity significantly improved after 2 weeks. 0% % variation compared to baseline -5% No irritation (erythema, burning/stinging, -10% itching) observed, even -11% at 3%. -15% -13% -13% -17% -16% -20% -20% -25% N=102, p<0.0001 Tactile/visual clinical grading on both sides of the face, 0-9 scale 16
  17. 17. In Vivo Clinical Trial: Results after 6 weeks Tactile Roughness Dullness Greater improvement of skin Aquabeautine XL™ 1% Aquabeautine XL™ 3% Aquabeautine XL™ 1% Aquabeautine XL™ 3% smoothness and clarity, actually perceived by the panelists. Questionnaires at 6 weeks reveal that Placebo Placebo statistically significant differences were found for mean scores of 0% statements about overall appearance, overall feel, smoother and softer skin between the placebo and the products -5% containing Aquabeautine XL™. Ultra mild active ingredient that % variation compared to baseline -10% perfects the complexion Skin becomes smooth and even with a -15% youthful glow. -16% -20% -19% Final results after 12 weeks are yet to come! -25% -25%N=101, p<0.0001 -26%Tactile/visual clinical grading on both sides of the face,0-9 scale -30% -29% -28% 17
  18. 18. In Vivo Clinical Trial: Results after 6 weeks Aquabeautine XL™ 3%BeforeAfter
  19. 19. Safety & Toxicity Cytotoxicity (157 x recommended concentration) Human keratinocytes were exposed to Aquabeautine XLTM for 6 and 24 hours using a MTT test, no cytotoxic effect was detected. Het Cam (in vitro ocular irritation assay) (2600 x the recommended concentration) Aquabeautine XLTM at this very concentration was scored as 4.5 out of 12 (Slightly irritant). Single Patch Test (10 tp / 175 x recommended concentration) 200 µl of Aquabeautine XLTM was left on the back of adults for 48 hours. Aquabeautine XLTM at this concentration was found very slightly irritant. 19
  20. 20. Safety & Toxicity HRIPT (Human Repeated Insult Patch Test) (100 tp/ 50 x recommended concentration) Using a Marzulli-Maibach method, Aquabeautine XL™ at this concentration can be considered non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Ames Test (mutagenicity) (2600 x recommended concentration) A Bacterial Reverse Mutation Test (Ames test) found Aquabeautine XL™ at this high concentration to be non- mutagenic and non-promutagenic. No Antibiotic Activity 15 types bacteria and 2 types fungi were tested. 20
  21. 21. Sustainability  Aquabeautine XL™ is produced as a by-product of the Norwegian salmon farming industry – no animals are harmed in the process.  Aquabeautine XL™ is not derived from Genetically Modified Organisms.  Aquabeautine XL™ is collected at the sole hatchery by Lygrepollen, at the end of Eikelandsfjord. The hatchery’s fresh water supply comes from Håvikvatnet, a secluded lake famed for the quality of its water and fishing.  If not collected, the proteins in Aquabeautine XL™ would be released into the wild and biodegraded.  All proteins are shown to be biodegradable. Nowhere in nature are proteins seen to accumulate. Proteins are constantly recycled as the amino acids are used as building blocks for new proteins. 21
  22. 22. Formulating with Aquabeautine XL™ INCI name: Hydrolyzed Salmon Egg Shell Extract Easy to formulate: colorless, odorless. Non tacky, does not impact the aesthetics or stability of a formula. Active in a broader and more skin-friendly pH range than hydroxy-acids: 5.5 – 9, with maximum activity at around pH 7.5. Suitable for a wide range of cosmetics applications, even for sensitive skins. Recommended level: 0.5 to 3%. An exceptionally stable ingredient with a shelf life in cosmetic products measured to be several years (enzymatic activity retained). 22
  23. 23. Formulating with Aquabeautine XL™ Supplied as a preservative-free, sterile solution. Ideally, should be kept frozen to ensure maximum shelf life (>24 months). Storage at 4˚C is possible for several months. (For short periods of time (e.g. transportation) storage at room temperature is ok.) Should be used as soon as the bottle seal is broken. Resealing of the bottle is not recommended. Should not be exposed to temperatures exceeding 65°C. Best added at the end of the manufacturing process, during cooling, at a temperature below 40°C. Solvent Compatible Water yes Glycerin yes Alcohol Small amounts only. 20% alcohol renders the enzymes inactive. O/W emulsion Acrylates yes based O/W emulsion Xanthan yes Gum based W/O emulsion yes 23
  24. 24. Formulating with Aquabeautine XL™ Aquabeautine XL™ has a prolonged micro-exfoliating effect and is ideal for:  Daily-use leave-on facial products: creams, lotions, toners, etc.,  Overnight treatments,  Cleansers/masks, in combination with other ingredients, for immediate and delayed results,  Body care products: body lotions, hand creams, lip balms. Its unique properties makes it particularly suitable for the following segments:  Anti-ageing,  Brightening,  After-sun,  Natural & organic cosmetics,  Cosmeceuticals,  Products for sensitive skin,  Spa products. 24
  25. 25. Summary Aquabeautine XL™, a gentle multifunctional ingredient to perfect the complexion, to get a smooth and even skin with a youthful glow. Aquabeautine XL™ key features are:  Novel and unique,  Biospecific exfoliant that gently detaches dead cells in the outer layer of human skin without affecting living cells beneath, proven to render comparable results to common hydroxy-acids without skin irritation,  Documented added benefits: moisturization, anti-ageing (skin rejuvenation) and soothing effect (under certain conditions e.g. sunburn),  100% natural and biodegradable: designed by nature and derived from a sustainable source,  Safe and non-toxic: extensive testing by independent laboratories,  Ease of formulation: colourless, odourless and active in a broad pH range,  Suitable for a wide range of cosmetics applications, even for the most sensitive skins,  Proven stability for years in products under standard conditions, unlike common proteases,  Patented globally. 25
  26. 26. Aquabeautine XL™ : Simply Better than Competition Non-specific AquabeautineFeatures Abrasives Hydroxy Acids proteases XL™100% natural    Anti-ageing benefit   Biospecific Non-cytotoxic  Non-irritating   Stable   Broad pH range   Does not impactaesthetics (color,odor, texture)    26
  27. 27. Marketing a Fish Derivative  Aquabeautine XL™ is derived from salmon roe or “red caviar” as it is otherwise known.  Given its high price, caviar is associated with luxury. In Russia and other Eastern European countries, caviar is commonly served during festive occasions. In Russia, the concept generally includes both sturgeon roe (black caviar) and salmon roe (red caviar), the former not necessarily superior to the latter.  Salmon roe is called "ikura" in Japan, a derivative of the Russian "ikra" (caviar) and is considered a delicacy. 27
  28. 28. ContactSales & Marketing Director: Fanny CosteTel: +47 90 40 27 09E-mail: