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  • 1. Adams (Parachute) Parachute Adams Hook: Any standard dry fly size 12 – 20 Thread: Grey or Black Tail: 3 to 4 grizzle and brown hackle Body: Grey muskrat under fur Wing Post: Polypropylene yarn Hackle: Grizzle and Brown cock hackles Tie in the wing post as shown. I like to use Niche’s Siliconised polypropylene yarn as it doesn’t ‘fray’ with time. It stays nice and straight the lifetime of the fly. Tie in the two hackles. Tie them up the post. 1
  • 2. Take the thread down to the hook bend and tie in the tail. Dub a little muskrat under fur onto the thread and dub the entire length of the hook right up to the hook eye. 2
  • 3. Make three turns and then tie in the grizzle hackle. Make another three turns with the brown hackle and tie down. 3
  • 4. Trim the excess hackle and whip finish. You’re done. A few more for the box. 4
  • 5. A variant of the Adams on a size 17 hook. The tail and hackle are golden grizzly while the body is Adams grey Fly-rite dubbing. Easier to tie in the smaller sizes due to one hackle. 5
  • 6. ADAMS DRY VARIATIONS ADAMS Material Hook - Mustad 94840 or similar hook size 10-18 Thread - brown or black Tail - Grizzly and brown hackle mixed Body - Grey dubbing Wings - grizzly hackle tips Hackle - grizzly & brown. 6
  • 7. 7
  • 8. ADAMS DOWNWING 8
  • 9. Hook - Mustad 94840 or similar hook size 10-18 Thread - brown or black Tail - Grizzly and brown hackle mixed Body - Grey dubbing Wings - grizzly hackle tips Hackle - grizzly & brown. 9
  • 10. 10
  • 11. ADAMS FEMALE Hook - Mustad 94840 or similar hook size 10-18 Thread - brown or black Egg sac- SULPHUR YELLOW DUBBING Tail - Grizzly and brown hackle mixed Body - Grey dubbing Wings - grizzly hackle tips Hackle - grizzly & brown. 11
  • 12. 12
  • 13. Good Tying everyone Part 2 Adams Variations ADAMS HAIRWING Hook - Mustad 94840 or similar hooksize 10-18 Thread - brown or black 13
  • 14. Tail - MOOSE BARB (BODY HAIR) Body - Grey dubbing Wings - White Calftail Hackle - grizzly & brown. 14
  • 15. 15
  • 16. ADAMS MOOSETAIL Hook - Mustad 94840 or similar hook size 10-18 Thread - brown or black Tail - MOOSE STRANDS OF MOOSE BODY HAIR Body - Grey dubbing Wings - grizzly hackle tips Hackle - grizzly & brown. 16
  • 17. ADAMS PARACHUTE 17
  • 18. Material Hook - Mustad 94840 or similar hook size 10-18 Thread - brown or black Tail - Grizzly and brown hackle mixed Body - Grey dubbing Wings - grizzly hackle tips Hackle - grizzly & brown. 18
  • 19. PArt 3 next __________________ ADAMS REVERSED 19
  • 20. Material Hook - Mustad 94840 or similar hook size 10-18 Thread - brown or black Tail - Grizzly and brown hackle mixed Body - Grey dubbing Wings - grizzly hackle tips Hackle - grizzly & brown. 20
  • 21. ADAMS SPENT WING 21
  • 22. Material Hook - Mustad 94840 or similar hook size 10-18 Thread - brown or black Tail - Grizzly and brown hackle mixed Body - Grey dubbing Wings - grizzly hackle tips Hackle - grizzly & brown. 22
  • 23. 23
  • 24. next part 4 __________________ PArt 4 Adams Variation ADAMS THORAX Material Hook - Mustad 94840 or similar hook size 10-18 Thread - brown or black Tail - Grizzly and brown hackle mixed Body - Grey dubbing Wings - grizzly hackle tips Hackle - grizzly & brown. 24
  • 25. 25
  • 26. 26
  • 27. DELAWARE ADAMS This is my favorite dry fly pattern in the #14. 16 & 18 History Mr. Dette was an exceptionally gifted fly tier. And for almost three-quarters of a century, he, along with his wife, Winnie, and their daughter, Mary, have been part of the tradition of Roscoe, a center of fly-fishing, and are the last of the renowned school of the Catskill fly tiers. Mr. Dette, along with Rube Cross, is a major link in a chain that reaches back to Theodore Gordon, long considered 27
  • 28. by many as the father of dry-fly fishing in this country. In 1928, when Mr. Cross was one of the acclaimed professional fly tiers in the East, Mr. Dette approached him with an offer of $50 if Mr. Cross would reveal the technical processes involved in the construction of his flies. "He told me to go to hell," Mr. Dette said, "even though I'd promised him I'd not tie commercially and thus compete with him, nor would I divulge his techniques to anyone else." Figured It Out Dressing flies was a jealously guarded secret during that era. This did not discourage the young Dette. He began purchasing flies tied by Mr. Cross and others. While his soon bride-to-be, Winnie, took notes, young Dette meticulously untied the Cross flies, one turn of thread at a time, in order to learn their construction. Unlike Mr. Cross, however, Mr. Dette shared the procedures with any and all who asked. Thus, not only was a wealth of technical knowledge preserved but in his willing students it was also eventually spread throughout much of the country. There is no doubt that Mr. Dette has directly, or indirectly, affected all who fish with the fly today. The flies tied by Mr. Dette and his family were considered to be of the best not only in beauty and precision but also in posture and durability when fished. Anglers and collectors have been buying the Dette flies for more than 60 years. The only frustration most collectors encountered was that no one in the family would say who tied what. Shared the Honors Although many of his innovations would fill a book on pioneering fly tying, the Dette name does not, with one exception, appear on any of the patterns he has designed. Of those which have achieved popularity over the years, the Delaware Adams and the Coffin Fly (the spinner of the Green Drake) are perhaps the best known. There are few, if any, awards or accolades in Walt Dette's name alone. Those who sought to honor him knew that to be able to do so, Winnie and Mary must also be included. In 1990, for example, the Eastern Council of the Federation of Fly Fishers presented their prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award to "Walt, Winnie and Mary Dette, the First Family of Catskill Fly Tying, for their untiring dedication to the sport of fly-fishing and their efforts to preserve the Catskill fly tying tradition." Material Hook - Mustad 94840 or similar hook size 10-20 Thread - Grey or black Tail - Grizzly and brown hackle mixed Body - Olive floss or dubbing grizzly hackle palmered Wings - grizzly hackle tips Hackle - grizzly & brown. 28
  • 29. 29
  • 30. Hope you enjoyed all 4 part of the adams variation (dry) Balloon Caddis Hook: Any dry fly, this is a Partridge Roman Moser Barbless #12 Thread: Any to match dubbing, I've used UTC 70 Olive Dubbing: Seal fur, SLF whatever takes your fancy. Wing: Deer Hair Head: Foam Start thread and wrap down to bend. 30
  • 31. Dub thread, bright green for egg sack first then whatever colour your caddis are (The caddis on the Welsh Dee are dark olive). Wrap dubbing to about the 2/3 point. 31
  • 32. Take a pinch of deer hair and even the tips in a stacker. Measure to size and trim the butts. 32
  • 33. Tie in with the tips facing back using the pinch and loop method, don't tie too tight as you have to manipulate the hair next. Rock the hair between finger and thumb to spread it evenly around the top half of the fly. 33
  • 34. Now tie down butts tight and tie in a piece of foam just behind the eye. Leave the thread at the eye and dub, I've used Olive Mosiac here because I like a bit of sparkle in the thorax. 34
  • 35. Wrap dubbing back over hair butts to start of wing. Bring foam over to make thorax cover and tie off, whip finish at same point. 35
  • 36. Stretch tag of foam and snip with scissors. Job done. 36
  • 37. Brambridge Caddis This is the Brambridge Caddis, a fairly simple fly to tie and a good introduction to tying small flies. HOOK- TMC103BL #21 (Or any light wire hook) THREAD – UNI-Thread 8/0 BODY – Super Fine Dry Fly Dub (#2 Grey) Or any fine synthetic dubbing or natural such as Mole Fur WING/HEAD – Bunch of Cock Pheasant Centre Tail STEP 1 Mount the hook in the vice and attach the thread. STEP 2 Tie in a small bunch of Pheasant Tail fibres, tips pointing over the eye as shown. These should be long enough that when folded back they reach a little beyond the hook bend. STEP 3 Trim the butts of the Pheasant tail at an angle, then tie down with the thread to leave a tapered body. Then add a small amount of dubbing to the thread. 37
  • 38. STEP 4 Wrap the dubbed thread up to the eye then back to the position shown, this will leave a pronounced head area. STEP 5 Fold the Pheasant tail fibres back over the head and body and tie down at the point shown in step 4. Then add a whip finish for the completed fly. That’s it, as with most small flys the tying is fairly simple. 38
  • 39. I always soak flys like this one in “Water Shed” when I tie them, allowing them to dry before putting them in the fly box. You can alter the body colour to suit a variety of Micro Caddis. 39
  • 40. Detached Bodied Daddy Long Legs Detached Bodied Daddy. The pictures are a bit long sorry Hook: Dry Fly size 10 Thread: Tan or Brown Body: annoying to say the least - Deer Hair Legs: Knotted Pheasant Tails approx 8 Hackle: Ginger Hackle Thorax Dubbing: Brown Fur Step1 Insert a needle into the vice Step 2 Wind on some thread – not too tight and not to slack Step 3 Select a bunch of deer hair and tie it on to the needle 40
  • 41. Step 4 Fold the hair over – one half at a time and tie it in near the tips. Repeat this for the bottom half. Step 5 Wind the thread up the body in open turns so that it looks a bit like a barber’s pole. Wind down in roughly the same way to make a criss cross. Step 6 Once you have whip finished you can coat the entire thing in a flexible coating or as I prefer varnish the thread at either end. Leave it to dry, once dry pull it off. It is better to hold the body and pull the needle rather than the other way around. 41
  • 42. Step 7 Mount a hook in the vice and wrap on some thread Step 8 Add some legs – knotted pheasant tail fibres Step 9 Now tie in the body and dub over it with some sort of brown fur. And add the front legs 42
  • 43. Step 10 Add a ginger hackle and whip finish plus some varnish The Finished Thing You can be Very Proud – I am anyway 43
  • 44. Comments are welcome 44
  • 45. Emerging Ephemerella Invaria Although, in my experience it is rare that the Sulphur Mayfly Dun (Ephemerella Invaria, Ephemerella Dorothea) is actively sought by feeding trout, I did experience a day this summer on the River Hodder when the trout did switch onto the Yellow May Dun (emerging) in preference over a sporadic (but present) adult sedge hatch. That evening I returned to my vice and tied a few Yellowhamers, Foam Emergers, and this pattern, which is based on one of Steve Thornton’s Emerging Mayfly patterns. Hook: Turral Sedge/Waterwisp Dry Fly 8-12 Thread: Dyneema/Spiderweb Tail: Porcupine Guard Hair Tips Abdomen: Translucent Nymph Skin (Coloured with Yellow & Brown perma pens) Thorax: Cream CDC (Dubbed) Thorax Cover: Yellow Foam Wings: Pearl or Polythene sheet Para Wing: White Cock Hackle Eyes: 25lb Yellow Mono Step 1 Insert the hook in the vice in an inversed position, attach the thread. 45
  • 46. Step 2 Attach 3 Porcupine Guard Hair Tips at the eye of the hook. Step 3 Re-insert the hook the correct way around, run the thread 3/4 of the way up the shank and tie in a 3-4cm section of nymph skin. 46
  • 47. Step 4 Take the thread back to the eye of the hook, stain the nymph skin using a yellow perma pen, wind the nymph skin down the hook shank gradually increasing the tension and secure at the head. Step 5 Rotate the hook in the vice, using a brown perma pen run two lines along the back of the abdomen, and re- attach the thread. 47
  • 48. Step 6 Tie in a 4mm wide section of yellow foam, and a white cock hackle. Step 7 Tie in a wing either side of the fly, in this case I've shaped the wing from a pearl sheet, but a translucent poly sheet would be a closer representation. 48
  • 49. Step 8 Using a dubbing needle, split the thread and dub some cream cdc (MP Magic Tool Style) in between the two strands. Step 9 Dub the thorax using the cdc, 1/2 way along the thorax pull the tag left over from the pearl sheet and shape into a curved wing shape (you should now have two small wings on each side on the thorax). 49
  • 50. Step 10 Turn the fly on it's side, using the foam post rotate the cock hackle around the base (Klinkhamer Style) to form a parachute wing. Step 11 Secure the cock hackle in place, pull the rear foam post toward the head of the fly to form a thorax cover, secure in place, and trim the excess. 50
  • 51. Step 12 Tie in a short section of 25lb mono, trim each side to leave a 2-3mm stub on each side. Step 13 Use a hot point, melt the mono eyes to form a small set of eyes. Pull the front foam section back over the eyes leaving a couple of cdc strands pointing forward, secure, and remove the excess foam. Colour the foam thorax using a yellow perma pen to darken it slightly. 51
  • 52. Run a dubbing needle through the thorax to loosen a few strand of the cdc, add a drop of varnish to the head and tail at the tie off points. 52
  • 53. Hopper and Bubble Hopper I have now redone this one, but I have had to split it in two due to size limits in posts. The Hopper and the Bubble Hopper. I have tied the Hopper with a cock hackle, if you want to tie the wet version simply follow the instructions, but substitute a hen hackle for the cock. I don’t use genetic cock hackle on my Hoppers, the hopper is meant to be tied sparse, genetic hackle would be too dense…. IMO. I have tied the standard Hopper black and the Bubble Hopper is the Red Arsed version Instructions assume right-handed tyers. Part I The Hopper HOOK - Kamasan B170 #12 THREAD - Black RIB - medium flat Pearl Mylar BODY -Black Seals Fur (sparse) LEGS - Knotted Pheasant Tail HACKLE - Black Cock (not genetic) STEP 1 Mount the hook in the vice, attach and wind on the thread, catch in the rib as you wind towards the bend of the hook STEP 2 53
  • 54. Add a touch of dubbing to the thread. . And wind on too form the body. STEP 3 Follow with the rib. 54
  • 55. I like to give the body a rub with Velcro at this point. STEP 4 Take your hopper legs. In true Blue Peter style here’s some I made earlier. Select four legs. I hold them as shown below. 55
  • 56. Then slip them under the hook so that two go each side of the thread. I then grip them in this position. And tie in. 56
  • 57. STEP 5 Tie in the hackle, near side of the hook, shiny (good) side towards you. STEP 6 Wind the hackle towards the eye and tie off. 57
  • 58. STEP 7 Finally, form a small head, whipfinish and varnish for the completed fly. __________________ ukflydressing A UK based fly tying site packed full of flyting tips and photographic step by steps. Now with added fly fishing section. scotfly PART 2 The Bubble Hopper. HOOK – Kamasan B170 #12 THREAD – Black RIB - medium flat Pearl Mylar BODY – Red and Black Seals Fur BUBBLE – 2 Natural CDC Feathers 58
  • 59. THORAX – Black Seals Fur LEGS - Knotted Pheasant Tail STEP 1 As STEP 1 above STEP 2 Dub the thread. You can dub the red first and wind it on followed by the black, or you can dub both on at the same time, as I have done. Then wrap to form the two part body. STEP 3 Rib the body and tie in the legs as in STEPS 3 and 4 above. 59
  • 60. STEP 4 Tie in two CDC feathers, by their tips on top of the hook shank. STEP 5 Dub on another pinch of black seals fur and wrap to form the thorax. STEP 6 60
  • 61. Pull the 2 CDC feathers over in a loose loop towards the eye and tie down. STEP 7 Trim waste and whip finish. Both flies side by side for comparison 61
  • 62. When tying in the legs it is important to tie them under the shank, I see many with the legs tied on top, that IMO is wrong. To fish the standard hopper, simply gink up the hackle and fish static or twitch occasionally. Do not treat the bubble hopper and fish either static or with the occasional twitch, or for something a bit different give it a sharp pull and it will go under the surface then pop back up, on occasions the fish will find this irresistible 62
  • 63. hief Clan Chief I have been going on about this fly for a while so I thought that I would do a step by step for it. Hook: Hayabusa # 10 Tail: Orange Floss over Yellow Floss (Globrite No. 4 over Globrite No. 11 (I think)) Body: Black Seals fur or Sub Rib: Silver Wire Body: Hackles: Black over Red and wound together Head Hackle (Optional): Black Step 1: Wind on a layer of thread down the hook shank to the bend: Step 2: Tie in a tail made of yellow floss 63
  • 64. Step 3: Tie in another tail made of the orange floss over the yellow one Step 4: Tie in your rib of silver wire 64
  • 65. Step 5: Dub on your black seals fur or sub *tip* make the first part of your dubbing MEGA sparse then dub at “normal” thickness. This prevents a bump being caused by the bulk of the two tails. It should give you a nice even body Step 6: Tie in a black and red hackle together 65
  • 66. Step 7: Wind the hackles down the body and secure with open turns of the rib. When palmering I like a turn of rib over each hackle turn so when you have caught a few fish the hackles will (if they do) only unwind one turns worth – if you see what I mean !!!? Step 8: You could just form a head and whip finish here but I like to add another black hackle at the head. 66
  • 67. Step 9: Whip Finish, Varnish and clip the tail (cut the tail longer than you think and it will look right once you’ve done it. It’s annoying if you cut it too short because it took some time and you get angry!!! This fly is good in a hatch of buzzers. A good varient of this fly is to replace the body with claret slf and the red hackle with a claret one. Makes a good top dropper fly. 67
  • 68. Grouse and peacock soft-hackle type thing Looks a bit like a hackled version of the Alder, an old winged wet. Among other things Dressing Hook : As you like, I’ve used a Tiemco 200R # 16 here Thread: Brown Danville’s Flymaster 6/0 Body : 3 strands Peacock herl ( this can vary with size of hook etc.), twisted with one of Olive Lure flash “Twinkle” Hackle: Well marked Red Grouse back or rump feather 68
  • 69. Method 1. Tie in thread, , pass to rear and back once. 2. Catch in 3 strands of herl (by tips) and twinkle( note - trim off the fine tips, say the last 4 cm - it just snaps when you try to twist it. 3 Carry the herl and twinkle to the rear, atop the hook shank. 69
  • 70. 4. Take the thread back up to the eye-end 5 Lock the tips of the herl and twinkle in your hackle pliers Twist the herl and twinkle into a rope (clockwise if looking to the floor) - just try to get a nice chenille effect for a working length of , say 4cm i.e. don’t try to spin up a dense cord all the way to your fingertips. 70
  • 71. 6. Wind the cord up the body in butting turns . You may have to impart further twist into the cord as you go to achieve an even effect. Tie off. 7. Catch in a prepared hackle. 71
  • 72. 8. Sweep back the hackle fibres, then wind them on, three to four turns,or according to taste. 9. Whip finish 72
  • 73. Job done. I vary the proportions and hook choice quite a bit: Lightly weighted version ( a caddis larva, perhaps) 73
  • 74. Bead-head version ( ascending caddis pupa) 74
  • 75. Heckham Butcher Sticking with the “one of my own patterns” theme, this is a fly which gained me second place in a fly tying competition a few years back. My inspirations for both the name and the design are obviously the Heckham Peckham, attributed to an Aberdeen angler called William Murdoch and the Butcher, most famously attributed to Messrs Jewhurst and Moon of Tunbridge Wells. As you will see it is a traditional style fancy fly. One to put on as an attractor pattern. Instructions assume right-handed tyers. HOOK – Kamasan B170 #12 THREAD – Black 6/0 TAIL – 8 Strand Glo-Brite Floss #4 (scarlet) BODY – Silver Flash Bright HACKLE – Black Hen WING – White Tipped Outer Coverts of a Mallard Drake (Butcher Blues) “SOMETHING EXTRA” – Red Permanent Marker Pen. STEP 1 Attach the thread and tie the hackle in at the shoulder. STEP 2 Wrap the thread to the hook bend catching in the tail as you go. 75
  • 76. STEP 3 Trim the tail to length then add a pinch of dubbing to the thread. Then wrap to form the body. I normally give the body on this one a rub with Velcro. 76
  • 77. STEP 4 Wrap and tie off the hackle. STEP 5 Using your finger and thumb, sweep the hackle fibres down and take a couple of wraps of thread to secure them in this position ready for the wings. 77
  • 78. STEP 6 Take corresponding pieces from the white tipped outer coverts. And tie in for the wings. 78
  • 79. STEP 7 Trim the butts, form a small head, whipfinish and varnish. STEP 8 Finally to add that “something extra” take a red permanent marker and colour the white tip of the wing for the completed fly. 79
  • 80. Picric JC Cruncher 1. Form a tail with 6-7 strands of Picric dyed pheasant tail. Leave the long pheasant tail strands intact (these will form the body) and return the thread to the eye. 80
  • 81. 2. Catch in a strand of UTC hot orange wire and lock in towards the bend, stopping at the base of the tail. 3. Form a tapered body with the thread. 4. Wrap the pheasant tail and rib with the UTC wire. 81
  • 82. 5. Form a thorax with ice dub leaving plenty of room at the eye for the hackle. I like Jan Siman's Golden Green Ice dub (shade 27) but standard peacock ice dub is fine. 6. Split a chartreuse jungle cock eye evenly and tie in as a cheek on either side of the thorax. 7. Select a hackle from a natural jungle cock cape. 82
  • 83. 8. Catch in the hackle tip first with 6 or 7 tight turns and trim the waste. Give the hackle 1 or 2 turns depending on your preference. 9. The finished fly. This is a great pattern for fishing straight-through or as part of a washing -line set-up. Please be careful when using materials dyed in Picric Acid as it is a carcinogenic substance. 83
  • 84. Sunburst Dabbler Haven't tried this one yet but am hoping it might be good for the Sonaghan on Lough Melvin next year. 1. Tie in a short tail of Globrite floss. Tie it down the shank to maintain an even body profile but stay well away from the eye. 84
  • 85. 2. Add in an over-tail of dyed orange mallard. 3. Catch in a strand of sunburst micro-straggle 'n' gold and form rear half of body. This stuff will hit the shops in the next few weeks and will be the material next season. 85
  • 86. 4. Catch in the tip of a sunbust genetic cock saddle hackle. 5. Dub on some dubbing and palmer the font half of the body with the hackle. Note the space left for the cloak - this is the key to getting a neat head. 86
  • 87. 6. Take a bronze mallard feather, strip the **** from the base and stroke 15-20mm from the central section out from the stalk. 7. Trim the section from the feather taking care to keep the end aligned. the angle of the cut doesn't matter as long as the ends stay level. Fold this section in half as you would a piece of paper. 87
  • 88. 8. Cloak the fly with the bronze mallard using a pinch and loop to secure. This example shows a 180 degree cloak but you can do less or more depending on your preference. Trim the waste and form a small, neat head. 88
  • 89. The Snip [Another hackled wet (no name)] “Second verse, same as the first………” Another one I like. I have to say, …….. it’s not really very far from the last one I posted . However I hope it’s of use to someone. I’ve used the dubbing spinner again ( and again follow Scotfly’s comprehensive thread - http://www.flyforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=2296 -serves the subject well ) only applying the dubbing to both sides of the thread. I like this one a bit on the chubby side. Dressing Hook : Partridge SLD, TMC 902BL or similar #14-16 Thread: Uni-thread 8/0 red Body : SLF Finesse Masterclass Blend shade 8 “Ephemerella” Hackle: Blotched feather from outside of Snipe wing Method 1. Tie in thread, and mount the hackle by the tip. 2. Trim waste/Take thread to rear, 89
  • 90. 3 Catch in dubbing loop, take thread just forward of hackle 4. Wax both sides of loop - I’ve used BT’s dubbing wax , and apply dubbing to both strands (or insert a thin mat of dubbing between) 5. Spin up the looped cord 6. Wind the spun cord up, in butting turns. (if you find the spun body slightly irregular, a very light scrub 90
  • 91. with a Velcro pad may resolve it for you). to the eye side of the hackle stalk. Tie off with a few turns of thread. 7. Sweep back the hackle fibres, then wind them on three to four turns,or according to taste.Whip finish. Job done. 91
  • 92. 2 Tone UV Brassie Hook - 12 to 18 Body - Black and Lime Green Wire Thorax - Black UV straggle fritz Thread - 70 denier black Tie in both strands of wire and run both down the shank. Put superglue on the shank. Wind both stands of wire up the hook at the same time, making sure the superglue is still wet. Once secured cover in superglue again. 92
  • 93. Tie in the staggle fritz once the body has dried. Wind the fritz on, secure, whip finish and superglue then varnish the head Smudge 93
  • 94. Back to Basics Buzzer I have posted several tyings for buzzers using various man made synthetics and I thought it time that I went back to what our grandads used to fish with and not a single sparkle or flash in sight. This is a basic stripped hackle stalk buzzer, (see posting about stripping hackle stalks) the good thing about then is that you can use almost any longish hackle feather that you have lying around. This is in Olive as it is one of the colours that I prefer for buzzers of this type so go grab that 5 quid cape and we will get started. Apologies again to the left handed tyers as it is a right handed jobby again, if I had been ambidextrous then things could have been more interesting! Materials - Hooks - from size 18 to 12s Kamasan B100s Thread - UTC 140 Olive Hackle - in this case - Olive ****** piece - the muckle big ones that were no good for anything but lures Wingcase - Cock Pheasant Tail Fibres Thorax - Hot Olive Seals Fur Run your thread down the hook of choice into the bend, on smaller sizes allow the thread to flatten out and reduce bulking 94
  • 95. Cut your hackle stalk at the appropriate thickness - experience will make this easier Tie in the hackle stalk at the bend and return the thread to the thorax area in tight touching turns Wind your hackle stalk in touching turns to the thorax area and tie in with a couple of turns before cutting off the excess Catch in your pheasant tail fibres and secure with a couple of turns. I use about 7 or 8 for a size 12 and reduce this to about 4 or 5 for a size 16 95
  • 96. Dub on your seals fur to form a thin rope, wax the thread beforehand on the larger sizes of hook. If you find that your rope is too long and going to bulk the thorax just pull the excess from the thread and keep for the next one Form the thorax and leave a little space behind the hook eye Gently pull the pheasant tail fibres forwards and secure with a couple of turns of thread Trim of the excess length and whip finish before varnishing. To reduce bulk try whipping 3 turns followed by a fresh whipping of 3 more 96
  • 97. As a good rule, practice the rule of 6, tie 6 in each size before progressing to another fly, this gives you good practice Another good rule is to tie up in several sizes as I did here 97
  • 98. Flexi Floss Black Buzzer Step 1 : - 98
  • 99. Start your thread where you intend to start the thorax. Step 2 Run the thread to the farthest you intend to tie the fly around the bend. Step 3 Tie in your flexi floss at the bend do not worry too much about thread build up. I have use Olive Flexi Floss. 99
  • 100. Step 4 Tie in your shell back pearl, I have used Siman Magic Shrimp Foil no 25 Step 5 Pull the shrimp foil over the back of the buzzer and tie in. Do not trim off Step 6 100
  • 101. Wind up the flexi floss in even turns, usually about 6 is enough on a size 10 hook. Step 7 Tie the pearl back backwards towards the bend trapping it down as this is your thorax cover. Step 8 Take 2 Fl.Lime Goose Biots, I use my own Definite Advantage Range and tie in one at each side. Step 9 101
  • 102. Side view as the biots should look Step 10 Tie in the biots one at a time, pull forward do not use excessive pressure as they may break and tie in. Trim off both and whip finish once. I whip finish at this stage as I do not want the thread to drop off and the biots to come loose. Step 11 102
  • 103. Blushing and Near Perfect Buzzers It’s another 2 for 1. This time the Blushing Buzzer and the Near Perfect Buzzer. The Blushing Buzzer is obviously tied to represent a black buzzer. In his book Trout & Salmon Flies of Scotland, Stan Headley describes it as “death on a hook” I wouldn’t disagree with him! The Near Perfect Buzzer is designed as a close copy of the lighter coloured greyish midge which appears later in the season. Stan describes it as “extremely effective” I would disagree this time and describe it as “more death on a hook” The tying method for both flies is nearly identical. The only differences being in the body and the colour of the hackle. Instructions assume right-handed tyers. 103
  • 104. Blushing Buzzer HOOK – Partridge K14ST (Oliver Edwards Emerger) THREAD – Black UTC70 BODY - Two layers of thread well varnished WING BUDS – Four strands of Glo-Brite No 8 either side THORAX – Two strands of Peacock Herl HACKLE – Two turns of Black Hen STEP 1 Attach the thread and wind down round the bend and back to the thorax. Whipfinish and detach the thread. STEP Apply two or three coats of varnish to the thread wraps and allow to dry. STEP 3 Reatach the thread. 104
  • 105. Then tie in four strand of Glo-Brite under the shank with figure of eight wraps. STEP 4 Tie in two strands of Peacock Herl Then twist into a rope and wrap towards the eye. 105
  • 106. STEP 5 Bring four strand of Glo-Brite up one side and tie off. Repeat with the other side and tie off. STEP 6 Tie in the black hen hackle. Then wrap, no more than two turns, and tie off. 106
  • 107. STEP 7 Whipfinish and varnish for the completed fly. The Near Perfect Buzzer HOOK – Partridge K14ST (Oliver Edwards Emerger) THREAD – Black UTC70 BODY - Varnished stripped Peacock Quill WING BUDS – Four strands of Glo-Brite No 8 either side THORAX – Two strands of Peacock Herl HACKLE – Two turns of Grey Dun Hen. STEP 1 Tie in and wrap the quill to form the body, then tie off and whipfinish as above. 107
  • 108. STEP 2 Apply two or three coats of varnish to the quill and allow to dry. STEP 3 Follow STEPS 3,4,5,6 and 7 steps above, substituting Grey Dun Hen for the hackle for the completed fly. Both Buzzers side by side. Near Perfect on the left and Blushing Buzzer on the right. I usually form the bodys on several of these first, completing the tying when the varnish has dried Don’t forget to allow the varnish to dry between coats. 108
  • 109. The GB Damsel Nymph Here is at last the finalised version for tying for the Glass Bead Damsel Nymph that I trialled with several members of the forum with some really spectacular results for some. I would like to thank all who helped prove this pattern and sent back their results of the testing, without their help I would not be able to say that this is a proven fish taker. I read in TF one time that a fly is not a fly unless it has caught at least 50 fish in different circumstances and waters, well this has managed to do so easily and I feel confident enough to release it for your perusal! First, the testimonials - "Brief opinion of lure……Very nice smooth action in the water, very visable, gets to depth at a good pace. Very invoking early in retrieve .Brought several fish out from deep lies" Fished in 3 venues with a total of 14 fish up to 6lbs in weight “I have had a play at my local fishery with the new fly, I had 10 the first time I tried it, in about 1.5 hrs, second time 5 same time span, then the last time I went 8, mainly on floating line. I also got a novice to give it a go, he usually catches 2-3 a day, he had that in a hour” “Good news and bad news in reference to your glass bead fly. Went on a little trip to Carsington yesterday. Its a very big reservoir. Started fishing at 8.30am. By 11am.....nothing (please take into consideration having never fished there before). Tried all kinds of things, and still nothing. Out came your fly. A fish came to the fly after 10 mins. To cut a long story short. Caught 7 fish, and 6 of them were on your fly. The 7th wasn't on your fly, because, when casting toward some bank trees, it must have got caught on a sunken tree root, or something, and the only way to get free was to break myself and leave the fly on the root somewhere. My friend who was at the side of me all day, didn't catch a fish. He would maybe consider himself the slightly weaker fisherman out of the 2 of us, but not to the point where he would blank and i would have a good day.More likely he would blank and i might have 1 or 2, or i would have 7 or 8 and he would have 3 or 4. I had quite a few knocks, and he didn't really have any, while fishing something as close as possible to your fly (gold head damsel). Hope this gives you some indication of how it performs (intermediate line, figure of 8 medium retrieve).” And from yet another tester who fished at seven different fisheries and caught at all with one going to 14 lb on a floating line, “ Good all rounder, great for Damsel fishing, would like to see more with different beads, Cheers!” “Gave your flee a go on Saturday at Rescobie but the fish were hard on the buzzers, so it wasn't the best time. Gave it 1/2 hour without a touch but I was getting frustrated with so many feeding fish all around. Eventually decided to strip it in and put buzzers back on when a large pike (10lb +) took it right at the boat - I just about sh1t myself Anyway had the pike on for a couple of minutes before my leader gave way. Sorry for the brief test but at least it went out in style” “A great little lure, I would say call it the STN - See through nymph Had some success with it. Took three lovely fish, all rainbows to the STN !! 26th May - Carsington water - Only had one fish all evening to the STN, a few taps and pulls but only managed to connect to the one Rainbow. Floating line, long leader 4th June - Club water (4 acre pit) - took four fish, 2 to the STN and 2 to Montana - Floating line, long leader - very fast retrieve Not had a good time of it lately, the club lake has plenty of damsels hatching off but the shallows are filling up with weed/algae scum only way to hit the fish I’ve found is with a fast retrieve to keep the flies nice and high above the weed..” 109
  • 110. "A nice looking lure, worked quite well. I liked the CDC hackle but did not stand up to the trout's teeth for too long" Long enough to manage 44 fish for this tester at 2 venues over 6 visits though! On with the tying! Assuming as always that right handed tying prevails. Materials - Hook - Kamasan B830 or B800 size 10 Thread - UTC Black & UTC OLive Tail - Olive Marabou Underbody - SIiver Mylar Tinsel Body - Translucent Green Beads Hackle - Mid Olive CDC Thread up your hook with the black thread up to the start of the bend. Catch in the silver mylar tinsel and return the thread to a point behind the eye Follow this with the silver mylar right up to behind the eye. 110
  • 111. Build up an 'eye' with the thread and whip finish, cutting off the thread. This step requires a little practice to get right as the first bead has to pop on to this 'eye' Slip the eye bead onto the hook and pop into place over the eye, I use the handle end of my scissors to do this with the eye resting on the table. Select a CDC feather with longish mobile fibres and tie this tight behind the eye bead ensuring that the fibres face towards the eye - the opposite of most tyings 111
  • 112. Make a tapered whip finish and remove the thread Slip on the remaining green glass beads and re-attach your thread making a stop for the beads. 112
  • 113. Select the marabou for the tail and tie in, there is no need to tidy this up as it adds to the fly Whip finish to a taper 113
  • 114. Varnish at least once with SHHAN to complete the fly. Note - you can use beads that are already silvered through the hole and omit the silver mylar stage. 114
  • 115. Headlamp Damsel Nymph After fooling around with the other stuff for the Bead Swap I started in on these as they have been working well this year for me when fished deep and slow, so get yourself at the vice and we will get it on. Materials - Hook - Kamasan B175 Thread - UTC 140 Olive Tail/Body - CDC Medium Olive feather Rib - Fine Black Holographic Mylar Hackle - Olive ****** Hackle Tips (left overs from Murragh!) Eyes - Small Silvered Light Green Seed Beads Before starting on the tying it is advisable to prepare the headlamp eyes first for as many as you are going to make up. Take two of the beads and slip them on to some fine nylon, in this case 6lb Drennan Double Strength, and tie an overhand knot pulling it tight to place the beads side by side, follow this with another two overhand knots making sure each is as tight as possible without breaking the nylon. If you are making a few, just use one length and keep adding pairs of seed beads leaving a gap of about 1 1/2" between each pair. Prepare the thread on the hook taking it about halfway down from the eye and trim off the tag Cut a set of eyes from the prepared string by cutting in the middle of the gap. Catch these in at the end of the thread by holding the nylon tags and wind your thread towards the head 115
  • 116. Adjust the position of the eyes backwards by pulling the nylon tags or forwards by pulling the eyes before lashing into position with a few figure of eight turns. If the eye is not level, level it up now before returning the thread down the shank to the start of the bend Catch in the mylar for the rib with a couple of turns Pull your CDC feather through your fingers to draw the fibres back towards the tip Place on the hook and catch into position with the thread with a couple of turns that are not too tight 116
  • 117. Pull the feather through until you get the desired tail length and secure with two tight turns then return the thread to behind the eyes under the feather Wrap the feather up the shank to behind the head and secure with tight turns (you could leave it like this and whip finish for an interesting parachute fly!) Cut off the excess feather and then with a couple of turns of the mylar over the thread, run the rib up to behind the head and secure in position 117
  • 118. Catch in your hackle tip and run the thread back down the body for a couple of turns, this helps ensure the fly does not fall apart in use! Wrap the hackle round the body with about 4 - 5 turns to produce a reasonable sized thorax Trim off the remainder of the hackle tip and whip finish the head from above the eyes before cutting the thread. Now you can get rid of any straggly looking bits before varnishing the head by just pulling them off in the case of the CDC or trimming with scissors if you want a perfect looking nymph. Taking your dubbing needle, as I do, dip it into the varnish and let the first big drop fall off back into the bottle and then apply the second between the eyes, the varnish will soak back and then add another droplet that will seep into the hackle base giving a better thorax definition. Job done! 118
  • 119. 119
  • 120. Hydropsyche Bit of a pigs ear this one but it was tied between reinstalling windows and all other progs, don't you just love these viruses. Hook: Curved grub Thread: 8/0 to match colour of insect. Body: Latex sheet/thin skin/body skin etc Gills: Ostrich Legs: Pheasant tail fibres pulled sideways off the stem. Extra bobbin needed to tie off body. Weight hook and smooth off body. Turn hook in vice so you can get to the bend and tie in a fluffy feather from the back of a partridge feather. Snip off stem to make a V shape and trim to size 120
  • 121. Put hook back to normal position and tie in body, then tie in gills under the hook. Leave bobbin at tie in point. Wind on body, first two turns have a bit of pressure on then ease off, when you get two turns from the head put pressure back on. Tie off with other bobbin 121
  • 122. Tie in gills by winding the thread at the back of the overlaps, make sure the gills stay in the middle of the fly. Turning the vice as you do this helps. Tie in legs by slipping under the thread, pull to size 122
  • 123. Put some tension on the thread and the legs pop up, take one turn forward. Snip off butts. Tie in other two sets of legs the same way, colour fly with marker and varnish head. 123
  • 124. Take your time with the legs and get the feet pointing the same way and brush out any gills that are tied down (not like this one). 124
  • 125. Little Pinkie As I've just got my hands on a new camera(actually an old one from a forum member-cheers Brian), I thought I'd try and post a "how to". Appologies for the pictures, I don't have anything like a studio set-up but at least you'll get a pretty good idea. I still need to learn about white balance, depth of focus, lighting etc. Any tips welcome. LITTLE PINKIE a Shrimp obviously. Hook-Curved shank scud #18,#16(shown here),#14,#12. Whatever you have knocking about, I really rate the Varivas 2200 but this was what was to hand, it'll catch me fish or the bottom! Thread-GSP(whatever make you prefer!)pink or white coloured pink with a marker Bead-Tungsten slotted black, sized to suit the hook/weight required. 2.3mm for this one. Extra ballast-Square lead wire. Back- Clear "Flexi body" plactic strip, cut to a taper at one end (the tying in point). Flashback(optional-Isn't everything?)-Opal Mirage Tinsel in medium or large for the big boys Dubbing-70% Roman Moser Gammarus pink, 30% Hareline Ice Dub UV Fl. Hot Pink. 100% Ice Dub for extra bright, dirty water, bugs. 1. Flatten the barb, if your chosen hook has one, thread on a bead, jam it in your vice and lay down some thread base. 125
  • 126. 2. Add lead wire. Be gentle with the thread tension if you arn't used to GSP as it will easily "cheese cut" the lead. Keep it on top of the hook shank. Tie in the front section first, leaving the rear half of the lead free of thread. The front secured cut the lead at an angle and tie down...extra gentle on the fine cut section. Soak with cement. 3. Repeat with a shorter length of lead....keep it all on top! This gives a nice slim(flat profile) which I like in my shrimps, the grayling seem to aswell. 4. Tie in back followed by the opal . 126
  • 127. 5. Take thread back to just behind the bead, add your dubbing and wind back to the "shell back tie in point". 6. Spin the thread to cord it, pull the back and flash over and tie it down with firm open ribs. Try to keep the flash central. This can be tricky, especially on smaller ones like this, and the humped back tries to throw the flash to one side...patience now! 7. Tie down behind the bead. Pull the back (and flash) as you cut it close in the crease of the bead. Whip finish and add cement to the wraps. 127
  • 128. 8. Now get picking the dubbing out with whatever pointy tool you prefer, to give the finished bug some leggy action. Flash back....whooo drug history! These are small but weighty little critters that cut through turbulent water really well. It has been my top grayling pattern for the last twelve months and I'm counting on it for a few more in the morning. You can use a mono rib if you prefer but I don't like tying off mono, if I can help it...always builds bulk. The GSP is pretty tough stuff so doesn't suffer too much from "trout tooth abuse". It is easier to tie using more elastic back materials(Scud Back etc) but I've found these perish if left for a few seasons, so I don't use 'em. If you get through flies quicker than daddy trout in May then this won't be a problem for you. I tend to tie in bursts, making lots of a pattern to last forever, just topping them up when required...may be years for rarely used patterns. A Rhyac teaser... 128
  • 129. Heptageanid nymph... Both the above are from my nymph box, they are used patterns both having caught fish. These how toos can wait till my camera work improves. 129
  • 130. Lumi Headed Cruncher by Request This fly has caught me a lot of fish not only on Rutland but Grafham and Chew. Top dropper pattern and deadly, tied with peacock instead of pheasant. Dressing: - Hook: - B175 I have used a 10, you can go smaller Thread: - UTC 70 Fl.Yellow Tail: - Greenwells Hen hackle fibres about 10 off them, I have used a whiting hen neck Rib: - Fine Silver Oval 4 turns only Body: - 2 Strands of peacock herl, I have used Dyed Flame Red by myself. Definite Advantage Range Hackle: - Same as tail 2 turns only and pulling back as you wind. Head: - UTC 70 Fl.Yellow Step 1 : - Insert a B175 hook and run your thread to just past the point of the hook as shown: - My Cape Step 2: - Tie in your 8/10 strands of Greenwells hen hackle as shown: - 130
  • 131. Step 3: - Tie in your silver rib making sure you only do so with 2 turns of thread so not to bulk up at the butt of the fly: - Step 4: - Tie in 2 strands of peacock Herl tips first and then run the thread to 3/4mm before the eye of the hook. I then add a few drops of varnish to the thread and leave to get tacky for added security on the peacock herl: - 131
  • 132. Step 5: - Run the peacock in touching turns to the eye of the hook and tie down and trim: - Step 6: - Be Careful here and trim the peacock into a carrot shape as shown, I usually only do one clip on the top and one on the bottom with very sharp scissors: - 132
  • 133. Step 7: - Rib the peacock with 4 turns of Silver Oval fine: - Step 8: - Tie in your greenwells hackle as shown, you should get about 4 crunchers per hackle if you use a whiting's: - Step 9: - 2 Turns of hackle at the head pulling it backwards as you wind it and tie down and trim, then whip finish and then varnish. Finished thats you first one tied Jim and I guess i'll need to stick them on my site now 133
  • 134. Oliver Edwards hydropsyche larva Ok im gonna give it a try if i can post it. Put an shrimphook in your vise and wrap flat lead on it On the back of a partidge feather you find a small puffy feather,take this small feather. Cut a small piece from the tip so you get a V shaped form. 134
  • 135. Tie this in at the end of the hook,this it the tail Take some nymphskin,cut it like this. Tie this in at the end of the leadwrap,when tying in you pull the nymphskin. Tie this to the tail. 135
  • 136. Now tie in 3 ostrich herls at the underside of the hook. Make a whipfinnish,dont cut of your tyingthread. Now pull aside the ostich herls and tyingtread. Wrap the nymphskin around the hook like this. When u reach the hookeye make sure you stop on top with the nymphskin. 136
  • 137. Above on the hookeye you fasten the nymphskin with very thin tread(i use spiderweb here) When you got the nymphskin tighten a lil you can overwrap it with the tread and secure it,with spiderweb you can use alot of thread without getting to bulky. Whipfinnish the thread,now it should look like this 8) . 137
  • 138. Now back to the end of the hook. Try to wrap the thread into the wraps from the nympskin. The ostrich herls you pull this way into the nymphskin,you have to pull a lil harder to make the thread pull in deep. Do this all the way around. Tie like this around,stop when u have 3 segments over,wrap the first of the last 3 segments just with the thread. Cut of the ostrich herls. Now the legs,pull of some pheasantfibers so u keep the lil hooks at the end of the fibers. 138
  • 139. Pull one by one the pheasant fibers under the thread. Pull them to lenght,then pull harder on the thread and make a wrap to the next segment. By pulling harder on the thread the legs will come up straight. Tie in this way all the legs. Make a whipfinnish at the hookeye. 139
  • 140. Collor the head section black and the body the collor that match the collor of the insect in your own water. At last you secure the legs by putting on some headcement/varnish between the legs and the nympskin. Ready is your fly. 140
  • 141. Oliver Edwards yellow may emerger Another one from his book. Put an swimmingnymph hook in your vise Wrap some flat lead on it 141
  • 142. Now use very thin thread( i use spiderweb) and tie in the tails,any fibers you want. Cut of a piece of flexibody,about 3 millimeter wide. Tie this in behind the lead and come back to the tails,as you tie it in you pull it a lil. 142
  • 143. Put on some fine dubbing and wrap till about 2/3 of the hook. Wrap the flexibody over the dubbing and whipfinnish. On the underside you tie in 2 pair of legs on each side,take any fibers you want. 143
  • 144. Put on some fine dubbing and wrap behind and in front of the legs,this way the legs stand up . Cut of a piece of swiss straw/raffene,about 5 millimeter wide and 5 cm long Fold this in lenght and wide,tie in op top of the hook. Pull the wings a lil down so they stand on the side of the body. Tie on this a cdc feather. 144
  • 145. Make 2 wraps with the cdc feather and whipfinnish Cut of a piece of swiss straw/raffene,about 6 millimeter wide and 5 cm long. Tie this in on top of the hook,try to keep it flat,this will come over the head section. 145
  • 146. Make the eyes from mono and a lightner. Tie in the eyes on top,just behind the hookeye. Put on some fine dubbing and make the head,bring the thread back to the cdc feather. 146
  • 147. Fold the swiss straw/raffene over the head,if you make it a lil wet it stay's smooth,and make a few wraps. Put on some fine dubbing and wind towards the head. Whipfinnish here and cut of the thread. To bad just 20 pics can be in 1 topic,others in next posting 147
  • 148. Quick GR PTN This little nymph has been my saviour on many occasion and even during caenis hatches when all else fails. Simple in construction and deadly in operation when fished high up during a caenis hatch for some reason. My preferred tying is to use hen pheasant fibres but as you can see I have run out of them at present and am using cock PT fibres. Enjoy! One of these days I will reverse all the photos for you left handed tyers out there but let us assume right handed tying for now. Materials - Hook - Kamasan B175 size 12 Thread - UTC Olive Rib - Hot Yellow UTC brassie wire Tail, abdomen, wingcase - 5 or 6 long PT fibres - hen or cock Thorax - Gorse Yellow Seals Fur Thread up your hook to the end of the shank Catch in your tail fibres with a couple of turns and pull to length before tightening - about the length of the hook is what I find best as it stops false takes 148
  • 149. Catch in your wire rib with a couple of turns Raise the fibres and run the thread up to the thorax point Follow this with tight turns of the tail fibres and secure with thread Make about 4 turns with the wire rib and tie in to the hook and break off by waggling the wire - this is a good tip from Scotfly that does not leave any small stub sticking up that you get with cutting 149
  • 150. Wax your thread and dub on a small amount of Gorse Yellow Seal's Fur Wrap this tight to the fibres and return the thread up behind the eye of the hook Pull the fibres over to form the wing case and wrap a couple of turns before cutting off the excess and double whip finish the head. You can tidy up the dubbing by cutting away the excess around the thorax for a neat finish but this is not really necessary 150
  • 151. The finished GR PTN. I do not varnish the head as the nymph only lasts for about 4 fish before they have damaged the tail whisks and it loses it's effectiveness. Head for the nearest caenis hatch and be the envy of all other fly fishers around you as you successfully beat the "White Death"! The Pupa Hook: Size 12 Curved Shank, Hayabusa used below. Thread: White GSP or Powersilk Underbody: Sticky back lead Wing Buds: Raffia Antennae: Porcupine Hair or Thin Cock Pheasant Tail Abdomen & Thorax Cover: Nymph Skin Gills: White Ostrich herl Thorax: CDC Rope Eyes: Yellow Mono (25lb) The Pupa Step 1 Lead the hook shank using lead sheet or wire. 151
  • 152. Step 2 Attach the thread (leaving a tag at the tail) and tie in two strands of White Ostrich herl (tip first), and a section of nymph skin. Step 3 Wrap the nymph skin up the body to form a wasp shaped abdomen. Step 4 152
  • 153. Colour the abdomen and thorax cover using permanent marker. Step 5 Varnish the abdomen and leave to dry. Step 6 Pull the Ostrich herl forward (one on each side) and secure into place by wrapping the left over tag of thread forward, following the body segments created by the nymph skin. 153
  • 154. Step 7 Tie in the raffia wing buds, either brown/black, or as in this case a white raffia that has been coloured using perma markers. Step 8 Dub some grey CDC to form a rope (MP Magic Tool), and form the thorax, pull the tag of nymph skin back over at this point to form the thorax cover. Step 9 Take a small section of yellow mono (25lb) and burn the ends using a lighter to create a small set of eyes, tie in place and colour the end of the eyes using a black perma pen. 154
  • 155. Step 10 Pull the nymph skin tag back over the eyes, secure in place, then tie in the antennae. Whip finish and add a drop of varnish to the thorax cover. Finished Pupa - Top Finished Pupa - Underside 155
  • 156. Thin Skin Damsel Ok here goes, Hook: Kamasan B800 Size 10 Thread: Danvilles Light Olive, & Danvilles Spiderweb Eyes: 12LB Nylon with 2 Brown Beads Wing Case: Light Olive Thin Skin Thorax: Mini UV Straggle Olive Abdomen: Same as Wingcase Tail: Definite Advantage Sunburst Collection Damsel Olive Marabou Legs: Wapsi Span-Flex Medium Olive Veniards Adhesive Lead Foil Step 1 Fix Hook in the Vice, and using adhesive lead foil about 2mm thick start to wrap it in touching turns up the 156
  • 157. shank. Stopping just short of the hook eye, double back and form a small thorax. Step 2 Catch in the light olive thread behind the shoulders of the hook and form a thread base finishing up at the thorax Step 3 Catch in the Thin Skin Wing Case and pull forward. Note: the strip should be about 2mm thick. Run the thread forward and stop behind the eye Step 4 Catch in the eyes Step 5 Run the thread all the way down until it comes off the lead foil 157
  • 158. Step 6 Catch in the Marabou Tail not to much though as Damsels don't have big bushy tails, but be careful not to put it up the shank, or on the lead, trim off the waste and take the thread up to the thorax and back down making a nice even underbody. Take the Thin Skin for the abdomen about 2-3mm thick and cut a tying in point and catch in at the tail as well Step 7 Now run the thread up to the point behind the thorax Step 8 Wrap the Thin Skin in overlapping turns up to the thorax to form a segmented body and tie off Step 9 158
  • 159. Tie in some UV Micro Olive Straggle. Take the thread behind the straggle as you will need it for the wing case to sit properly Step 10 Form the thorax making sure you cover the lead foil and finish where your thread was left in the previous step Step 11 Trim some of the Straggle to suit. Now turn the fly or vice 180 degress so that the fly is upsdie down. Catch in your Spiderweb at the back of the thorax, a couple of turns should do and catch in the first and second and third pair of legs. Step 12 Using a Olive marker pen colour in any thread that you can see 159
  • 160. Step 13 Switch back to your light olive thread catch it in at the back of the thorax, and pull the wingcase over and secure with a couple of wraps with thread Step 14 Colour the thread in with the marker pen, and take off the vice and hold it up so the the fly is facing the ceiling, and using a fly tyers hotpoint buckle the legs. Be careful you don't amputate it! Step 15 Do the same for all 6 legs so the it looks like so, and trim the legs to length 160
  • 161. And thats your fly complete And there ya go. You can use a red bead for the head etc etc whatever tickles your fancy. The good thing is the legs give it plenty of movement so that it looks like the real thing. 161
  • 162. Video Buzzer This is the Video Buzzer, shown to me many years ago by my great friend Barrie Cook. It is my most successful buzzer, beating every buzzer I have tried by a country mile, that includes flexi buzzers, epoxy buzzers etc. Instruction assume right-handed tyers HOOK - Kamasan B175 8-16 THREAD – Black UTC 70 BREATHERS- glo-brite fluorescent multiyarn (or similar) BODY- 2mm wide strip of Video tape (Taken from an old VHS video) RIB -Silver wire THORAX -Peacock Herl STEP 1 Mount the hook in the vice and attach the thread. 162
  • 163. STEP2 Tie in a length of multiyarn. Bind down about half way, then cut some of the yarn away. This stage is optional, if you want to leave the yarn as a full strand you can. Continue wrapping round the bend, catch in the silver rib as you go. STEP 3 Cut a length of video tape into a 2mm wide strip and cut a point on the end. Tie in, taking the thread back to the point shown. 163
  • 164. STEP 4 Wind the Video tape to form a neat body. Followed by the wire rib. I usually cut the tail breathers to length at this point. STEP 5 Catch in 2 or 3 Peacock Herl fibres. 164
  • 165. STEP 6 Twist the Herl into a rope and wind towards the eye, tie in and trim off waste STEP 7 Form a neat head, whipfinish and varnish. Trim the breathers to length for the completed fly. Unfortunately the pictures do not do justice to the body of this buzzer, it really glistens when wet. 165
  • 166. It's Another Wire Buzzer It's Another Wire Buzzer. My first attempt at a Step by Step with acknowledgement for much help and advice from Scotfly. I first saw this particular pattern at the Dutch Fly Fair in September 2002 where it was being demonstrated by Elie Beerten, so I do not claim any originality for this fly. Materials you will need: Thread : Black UNI-Thread Size 8/0 Hook: Size 12 to 16 Curved Grub Hook - Hyabusa 384 or equivalent Body: UTC Ultra Wire – I use the BR size on 12’s 166
  • 167. Wing buds: Orange glo-brite floss No 7 Thorax: Black or very dark mole dubbed onto thread Step 1 Fix the hook in the vice with as much of the shank showing as possible. Prepare the wire strands by measuring off lengths of about 4 to 5 inches. Use several lengths of the same colour to achieve the desired effect. In this example, three black, one gold and two red have been used Step 2 Keeping tension on the wire, place the strands over the shank and begin to wind them along the hook. Do be sure to keep the strands flat as you make each turn. There should be no overlap. Note that there is no thread on the hook at this time. Step 3 Add further wraps and push the earlier wraps back round the bend of the hook until two thirds of the shank has been covered. 167
  • 168. Step 4 Apply a touch of superglue along the wire to fix it in place and leave to dry. Step 5 The excess wire should then be removed and this is best done by cutting the wires (with an old pair of scissors) as close to the hook shank as possible. Step 6 Using a pair of long nose pliers, the ends of the wires should be turned in the same direction as the wraps so that they lie flat along the shank of the hook 168
  • 169. Step 7 A couple of coats of Sally Hansen or similar varnish should then be applied and again left to dry. Step 8 When the varnish is dry, tie on some black thread behind the eye and catch in two strands of the orange glo- brite floss on either side of the body. Step 9 Take a pinch of black mole and dub it onto the thread. Wind this fur up to the eye to form a slim thorax. 169
  • 170. Step 10 Pull the strands of orange floss up to the eye so that they lie along either side of the thorax then bind them down and trim the excess Step 11 Finally build a neat head, whip finish and varnish. I find it easiest to do stages 1 to 7 for several flies, so that when the last one has reached stage 7, the first one is ready for the varnish. I apply the varnish and then set aside for another day so there is no chance of spoiling the gloss finish by handling it whilst the varnish is wet. 170
  • 171. X-files pupa (variation) This is my variation on the X-Files Pupa. The original pattern calls for the Mustad Neon 925969GL hook, I don’t have any so have used a bit of imagination.. The body is Luminous sheet which I have used for some time in Buzzer patterns and with more than a little success. I normally use it in the thorax though, this is the first time I’ve used as a body medium. It’s not a pretty fly to look at, the downside of using luminous sheet, which is not user friendly. HOOK – Drennan Star Point Barbless #10 THREAD – Black Roman Moser Power Silk BODY – Avro (Firefly) Luminous Sheet RIB – Black Flexi Floss THORAX – Peacock Herl HEAD – Luminous Sheet STEP 1 Attach the thread and wrap down and round the bend, catching in the flexi floss as you go. When you cut the waste flexi floss do it under tension. This will leave you with no bumps. STEP 2 Cut a strip of luminous sheet 1 – 11/2 mm thick, cut a point in it, the same way you do when tying in tinsel. 171
  • 172. Tie in, but be careful, pull the thread tight on this stuff and you will slice through it. STEP 3 Wrap the sheet to form the body. Wrap all the way to the eye then tie off and bring the thread back one full, open, turn. You will find it impossible to get a “text book” body with this material, but I can live with that if the fish don’t mind. STEP 4 Follow with the rib. Tie this off at the point shown. STEP 5 Tie in two or three Peacock Herls. 172
  • 173. STEP 6 Twist the herls in to a rope and wrap to form the thorax. Whipfinish and tie off at the thorax for the finished fly. The finished fly in all its glory. Fish deep or in the gloaming. Charge material in daylight or use a torch. 173
  • 174. Ace of Spades It’s been a while, but the refit is finished at last. A lot more work than originally planned but worth it.. So here we go again with some more step by steps. This one is the Ace of Spades. HOOK – 4X #10 SILK – Black 6/0 (I’ve use red here, a minor variation I sometimes use) BODY – Black Chenille RIB – Medium Silver Oval WING/TAIL – 4 Black Hen Hackles THROAT – Natural Guinea Fowl OVER WING – Bronze Mallard. STEP 1 Mount the hook in the vice and wrap the thread to the tail, catching in the medium oval underneath the shank as you go. STEP 2 Take a length of black chenille expose the core by stripping the chenille from it with your finger and thumb. Then tie it in on top of the shank. STEP 3 Wrap the chenille forward and tie of at the head. STEP 4 174
  • 175. Take four hen hackles and place them together, all with dull side innermost, then offer them up to the hook and judge for length. Here I have shown the maximum length I would use. The longer the tail part the more problems you will have with it wrapping round the hook. STEP 5 Once you are happy with the length strip the bottom fibres away. You can do each feather individually or as I have done and I think the best way, all four at once STEP 6 Now holding the hackles in position transfer your grip to your other hand and strip away the top fibres at the tie in point as shown. STEP 7 Tie the four hackles in on top of the shank as shown. 175
  • 176. STEP 8 Now hold the hackles in place and stroke the fibres up, a little fly tyers glue helps here. STEP 9 Now wrap the rib in evenly spaced turns through the hackles and tie off at the head. STEP 10 Invert the hook in the vice and tie in a bunch of guinea fowl as a false beard. 176
  • 177. STEP 11 Select a piece of bronze Mallard by stroking it to right angles to the stem and cutting off. Then fold in half, dull side inner most. 177
  • 178. STEP 12 Offer the over-wing up and tie in so that it folds over the Matuka style wing. Then whip finish and varnish for the completed fly. There are quite a few variations of the Ace of Spades, chief amongst them is substituting dye blue guinea fowl for the natural, when it is then called the Queen of Spades. When tying this one I prefer a larger head as shown, but with the black I tie it with a smaller head. Don’t know that it makes a difference, but I like it. Bronze Mallard is a delicate feather so try to handle it as little as possible. If it still falls apart on you don’t worry, once it’s wet you won’t know the difference. 178
  • 179. Deer Hair Floating Fry This is the Deer Hair Floating fry. Before we start, when tying this fly remember that you are actually tying it on its side. So any fins go on the side and eyes, gills go on the bottom. You don’t need to put eyes or gills on the top, the fish don’t see that part. Having said that, I have put gills on top and bottom in order to show you two different methods. Also bare in mind that deer hair work is a weak point with me, especially trimming/ sculpting it, try not to be too judgemental. HOOK – Kamasan B800 #10 THREAD – Grey Danville’s Flat Waxed Nylon TAIL – White Marabou BODY – Spun White Deer Hair + - Marker Pens STEP 1 Attach the tread and wind down to the bend, catching in the marabou for the tail as you go. You will find it easier when trimming later on if you give the marabou a good wetting after you tie it in. STEP 2 Cut a clump of White Deer Hair, about 1- 1 ½ times the thickness of a pencil and prepare it for tying in by, first combing out any under-fur, use either a comb or your finger nails. 179
  • 180. Second, cut the tips off, you don’t need them. Then offer them up on top of the hook and take one loose wrap of thread round them. Then pull tight, allowing the hair to spin round the hook and flair. 180
  • 181. STEP 3 After you have spun the bundle on, advance the thread through the hair ready for the next bundle. STEP 4 Gripping the hook tightly immediately behind the bundle pack the hair tight with a packer or if you haven’t got one, you can use an empty bic pen or at worst your fingers. With this type of fly I pack it as tightly as possible to aid flotation. Never forget to grip the hook behind the first bundle though or you will push it all round the bend, or even bend or break the hook. 181
  • 182. STEP 5 Continue spinning more bundles of hair, not forgetting to pack every bundle until you reach the point where the gills will be. Now comes the clever bit, which I saw demonstrated by Chris Helm at the fly fair. I did this part on top in case it didn’t work out for me. Take some Red Deer Hair, comb out the under-fur and cut to length. Then trap it on your finger with the thread. Then fold it in half round the thread. 182
  • 183. Finally, holding the folded hair by the tips, pull it into the spun bundle. Then continue spinning and packing more hair until you reach the eye and throw on a whip finish and detach the thread. STEP 6 Now comes the fun bit, trimming the hair to shape. I use scissors for this job, but you can use a razor blade if you prefer, be careful you don’t cut the tail off. You can do it while it’s still in the vice, but I prefer to take it out and trim it to shape over a bin. Trim to a fish shape, but don’t forget the bottom of the hook is actually the side of the fry. You can trim it to a fish shape without fins or as I have done with this one, with a dorsal fin. You will also see the red hair I used for the gills here. 183
  • 184. STEP 7 This is the side the fish will see, hook point down and the side we will be putting the eye on. Cut a small recess for the eye, or as I have done here, burn a hole with a cauteriser, but be careful you don’t burn too deep and catch the thread. Then using a dubbing needle, scrape the hole to clear out any brittle hair left from the cauteriser and apply a generous amount of superglue. 184
  • 185. Then press the eye into the glue and hold until set. STEP 8 Another way of making the gill is to simply draw it on with a marker pen. If you want you can leave it like that, or using some marker pens you can give it a more realistic appearance. 185
  • 186. 186
  • 187. Jersey Herd This the Jersey Herd. One that like many of the old lures is often forgotten about, but one which has stood the test of time. This is a good fly to use as an “anchor” on a team of buzzers “dead drifted” in a breeze. If more anglers fished their lures like nymphs … there would be a lot more fish caught!! It’s not all about sink and draw or milking the cow in record time. The body on the Jersey Herd is copper, not, as you see many times, Gold. The body was originally made from the top of a milk bottle, but as I have none I used Uni Copper tinsel. You can if you wish of course tie it with a gold body, or silver or orange or…… Instructions assume right-handed tyers HOOK – Kamasan B830 THREAD - 6/0 Black BODY – Copper Tinsel TAIL/BACK/HEAD - Peacock Herl HACKLE - Orange You can weight this fly if you wish, I have used medium lead wire. STEP 1 Mount the hook and apply a drop of superglue, then wrap the lead wire over the wet glue. STEP 2 Attach the thread and wrap over the lead wire to leave a smooth under body, build a small taper at either end of the lead so that you do not have a sudden drop. 187
  • 188. STEP 3 Catch in the peacock Herl, here I’ve used 5 strands. Catch it in with two or three wraps of thread then lift the butts and wrap the thread to the shoulder. STEP 4 Tie in the copper tinsel at the shoulder, then wrap it to the tail and back to the shoulder and tie off and trim waste. STEP 5 Mount the hackle. You can tie it in the conventional way, or as I have done here, doubled and by the tip. 188
  • 189. STEP 6 Wrap the hackle, tie off and trim waste. STEP 7 Pull the peacock Herl over the body and tie down at the head and trim the waste. STEP 8 Tie in another three peacock herls. 189
  • 190. STEP 9 Twist them into a rope, wrap to the eye, tie in and trim waste. Then whip finish and trim the tails to length for the finished fly. 190
  • 191. The MAGIC HEAD FLOATING MINNOW PATTERN Hi Guys ok well at the request from a few on the forum I have provided a step by step for my Floating Minnow Pattern. The great thing about this pattern is as it’s a generic floating fry pattern it can be adapted in any way you see fit to suit whatever your quarry is or your preferences and im sure would work well in both fresh and saltwater. As in my previous post I have fished this pattern for a number of years and found it works very well all year 191
  • 192. round but obviously at this time of year can be quite literally lethal. Fished on either a floating line and med to long leader twitched, static, figure of eight or stripped all can work it just depends on the conditions on the day. If there is suface activity when the trout are shoaling the fry – cast this pattern out into the middle of this activity and HOLD ON!!! N.B. Smash Takes are the norm with this pattern so take extra care with your knots and again 10-12lb leader minimum. Again also works well on most sinkers from slime to di-8. If any of you tie this pattern plse let me know on this post or pm me as to how you get on with it. THE FLOATING MINNOW PATTEN HOOK - DAICHI 2546 / MUSTAD M34007 SIZES 4-2/0 THREAD - 6/0 DANVILLE'S WHITE / GUDEBROD GX2 WHITE (OR COLOUR TO SUIT BRAID USED) BODY – ¼”, ½” , 1” PEARL, SILVER, GOLD, BLACK/GOLD E-Z BODY BRAID OR CORSAIR TUBING , OR GATOR BRAID BY TURRALLTAIL & INSERT – WHITE OR COLOURED FOAM TO MATCH E.G PLASTAZOTE THE LIST IS ENDLESS, OF A SUFFICIENT THICKNESS AND WIDTH TO FLOAT THE FLY & WHITE BLOOD MARABOU + COTTON BUD EYES - HOLOGRAPHIC NATURAL / RED / YELLOW (COLOUR TO SUIT) MAGIC HEAD - MARC PETITJEAN (OPTIONAL) TYING DIFFICULTY – MEDIUM / ADVANCED N.B. This Pattern is more difficult to tie than others as it does entail more steps in the tying and can be a little bit more“fiddley” – having said that after a couple under your belt you should have got the knack of it. STEP 1 OK take a cotton bud preferably unused and after removing the cotton cut a piece of the plastic off anywhere from 10-25 mm - then place it either into a tube fly needle or a small hook (either works just ensure the tubing does not spin around and is held securely. Then attach some tying thread to the tube and wind in a small amount of thread. 192
  • 193. STEP 2 Take a plume of white blood marabou and then pinch a portion and tie in on the top of the tubing. Then take a second clump and tie in underneath - whip finish, trim excess and varnish. 193
  • 194. 194
  • 195. STEP 3 Take your block / piece of foam and using a razor blade or a "lollipop blade" (2 lollypop sticks glued togetherand then 2 small blades glued either side) cut out a piece of foam of sufficient density to float the fly but also narrow enough to fit easily into the tube. Cut a piece 1.5 - 2 times the length of the hook being used. STEP 4 Take the piece of foam and then make an incision down the centre so that the foam 195
  • 196. forms a "y" shape. Take the "marabou tail tube" and cut off any excess tubing so that 5-7mm remains and then place in-between the foam incision and then tie in. This bit is a little tricky as you cant put it into the vice to do this but tie in and whip finish holding it in your hands. 196
  • 197. STEP 5 Determine how long you want the front portion of the body to be and then poke the eye of the hook into the mesh of the tubing (between the thread lines) at a point that allows you to achieve your desired length. Then attach the tying thread on to the hook just behind the eye. 197
  • 198. STEP 6 Take the piece of foam and then insert it through the rear of the tubing - push it until it comes out the front end. Then tie down the foam and trim off any excess. STEP 7 Now go to the tail and tie the tubing down (ensure the thread lines are again parallel), and trim off any excess tubing. 198
  • 199. STEP 8 NOW THE FUN PART!! STUFFING THE CHICKEN!!! Turn the tubing on its side (away from you) and then insert the marabou into the tubing from the front until the desired shape is achieved - remember less is more ORGANISED CHAOS 199
  • 200. STEP 9 Once the desired shape has been achieved then whip finish the head and trim off the excess tubing. STEP 10(OPTIONAL) This next stage is completely optional and if you arnt looking to use this 200
  • 201. pattern on a slime or fast sink then you need not add one. Choose the correct MP Magic Head for the size of hook you have chosen and slip it over the eye of the hook and then tie in and whip finish. STEP 11 Nearly finished - This is the fun part --> choose whatever makers you wish to use and carefully colour in the pattern, then add the holographic eyes or you can use paint instead. 201
  • 202. THE FINISHED ARTICLE - TIGHT LINES 202
  • 203. 203
  • 204. Mini Cat variation This is a variation on the Cats Whisker theme. Very easy to tie and just different enough to make a difference on a tough day. Instructions assume right-handed tyers HOOK – Kamasan B160 #12 EYES – Small Bead Chain TAIL – White Marabou BODY – Chartreuse Marabou WING - Tips from body THREAD – Fluorescent Orange UTC 70 STEP 1 Mount the hook upside down in the vice and wrap the thread to the point shown. STEP 2 Using a figure of eight wind, tie in the bead chain eyes. 204
  • 205. STEP 3 Turn the hook the right way up in the vice. Take a pinch of marabou in your left hand. 205
  • 206. Then using your right finger and thumb Strip the flue from the stem. This will help you avoid bulk at the tie in point. STEP 4 Tie the tail in on top of the hook shank. Tear the tail to length by gripping it in your left hand and tearing to length with your right hand. 206
  • 207. STEP 5 Prepare the marabou for the body in the same way and tie in, taking the thread to the head. STEP 6 Wrap the marabou to form the body. When you reach the eyes do a figure of eight wrap to cover between them. Tie off leaving the tips extending over the eye. STEP 7 Fold the tips back to form the wing. 207
  • 208. STEP 8 Form a neat head, whipfinish and varnish for the completed fly. 208
  • 209. Mini Zonker Hook - 10 - 12 Thread - Black Body - Peacock Lite Brite Wing - Lime Green Zonker Strip Cut a strip of fur. Rip 3/4 cm of fur off one end. Place it facing down on the hook shank. Tie down a give a coat of superglue. Dub the lite brite onto the thread. Wind the dubbing onto the shank 209
  • 210. Fold the Strip back over on itself and secure at the eye. Trim off excess, whipfinish and varnish Mini Muddler Minnow. I use this fly as a lure when the fishing goes dead and not a fish in sight. I tie it in all different shapes and sizes. Black and red is my most successful but the oringinal one looks better. Its always good to have one in your box in the colder months or when the warmer months are in you can use a hackled varriation to pull across the surface to create and disturbance... Hook: Kamasan lure hook size 12 Thread: Uni black 8/0. Tail and wing: Molted turkey. Body: Gold myler tinsel. 210
  • 211. Rib: Gold wire. Underwing: Squirrel tail. Head: Deer hair. I was fiddling around with my camera and i found a good way to improve my pictures, so i decieded to do this step by step. Ok lets get started.... Step 1: Start the thread nearly half way onto the hookshank to leave some space for the head, Tie in the gold wire for your rib and tapper the body out nice and even. Step 2: Now you have to select two identical slips from the turkey feathers. You have to put these to slips you cut out from each wing together. Here is a picture showing the two turkey feathers. 211
  • 212. Now you have to cut out a slip from the left feather and a slip from the right feather. The slip from the left goes at the back of the wing and the slip at the right goes infront of the wing. So the left is the back and the right is the front. Once you place the both slips together you get a much neater wing than a single slip just tied on. You can easily fix the wing with a dubbing needle which saved me some hassle. To tie the wing on, well to tie the tail on you have to hold the slip tightly with index finger and thumb and place the thread inbetween your fingers very lightly, you can place two wraps of thread inbetween your fingers or one. Now hold the wing tightly and slowly pull the thread downwards. The right side of the wing should lift upwards and if you tie it on correctly you will be left with a (V) shaped wing. Look at picture below. Practice makes perfect. The material i used for the tail is cheap molted turkey but it does what i need it to do. 212
  • 213. Step 3. To speed up your tying don't cut away the waste end of the tail. Use it to help you to tapper out the body so the gold tinsel can go on nice and even Once your satisfied tie in your tinsel. Step 4. Now this is easy, wind your tinsel up the hook and then back down, tie it off and then give ur gold wire 5 turns to secure the tinsel. Your result should look like this. 213
  • 214. Step 5. Now select a small amount of squirrel tail fibres and tie them in for the under wing. The length of the fibres should not go past the tail. Some of mine have but they are loose fibres... Then again repeat step two and tie in your wing over the top of the squirrel fibres. This does not look the best type of wing but its going to get wrecked anyway when the fish hits it. Never mind about the amount of thread i used on the head, don't copy this thats just a little mistake i made but when the fly is finished you won't see that anyway. Step 6. Deer hair time. Select a good bunch of deer hair, use a small comb to remove the under hair and place the deer hair in the hair stacker. This will be your hackle. Once you have the tips of the deer hair level, you can turn the hook upside down to avoid messing up the wing. The deer hair should not go past the barb of the hook, spin the deer hair and your result will be a total mess but thats fine. 214
  • 215. Step 7. Now you have to finish off the head, select two more bunches of deer hair and trim off the pointy tips, Spin both bunches and you should have a result like this, Step 8. Its time to do some hairdressing. You can either use a blade or a pair of scissors to do the work but for smaller flies i'd stick to a pair of scissors. Trim away all the deer hair but do not trim off the hackle. Trim the head to whatever shape you want and whip finish. and.. here we have a mini muddler minnow. 215
  • 216. Hope you all enjoy this. 216
  • 217. Picket Pin This is the Picket Pin, a master of all trades. By using the correct materials you can fish this as a dry fly, wet fly or lure, and what’s more it excels in all three. The stated hackle is Rode Island Red which is next to impossible to obtain, so I use a Metz natural red hackle which has a dark centre, almost like a Greenwell’s cape. If you don’t have anything similar or simply prefer it, use a red game or brown cape. This is the lure/wet fly version. The dry is shown at the bottom of the page. I'm having a little giggle thinking of Brennan trying to decide which section to put this one in. HOOK – STD 10 – LS 10 THREAD – 6/0 Black Uni-Thread BODY - Peacock Herl HACKLE – Palmered Rode Island Red Cock or Hen. (I prefer cock on all versions, but you can use hen on the lure and wet versions) RIB – Gold Wire WING – Squirrel tail (Wet/Lure) Elk Hair (Dry) HEAD – Peacock Herl STEP 1 Attach the thread and tie in the hackle at the point shown.(approx ¼ shank) STEP 2 Wrap the thread to the bend, tying down the hackle stem and catching in the wire rib. 217
  • 218. STEP 3 Catch in 3or 4 strands of Peacock Herl on top of the hook shank and wrap the thread back up to the thorax. Then apply some varnish to the thread wraps. STEP 4 Twist the Herls into a rope and wrap to the hackle to form the body. STEP 5 Wrap the hackle down the body, then tie in with a couple of turns of the gold wire. Continue wrapping the wire through the hackle to the head. Tie off and twist the waste off. Then form a foundation for the wings. The Higher you build the foundation the lower the wing will sit. 218
  • 219. STEP 6 Select a bunch of squirrel tail for the wing. Then after aligning the tips in a stacker offer them up for length. 219
  • 220. Then transfer the grip, without moving the wing, to your left hand and make two or three “pinch and loops” to tie the wing in. 220
  • 221. As always, check your wing is parallel with the body. STEP 7 Lift the wing butts up and trim at an angle. 221
  • 222. STEP 8 Apply a generous amount of varnish to the wing roots. Then cover the roots with tight wraps ready to receive the Peacock Herl head. 222
  • 223. STEP 9 Tie in 3 or 4 Peacock Herls on top. Then twist into a rope and wrap to form the head, whipfinish to complete the fly. 223
  • 224. This is my preferred hackle for this fly. And here it is beside the dry version. The tying sequence is exactly the same, but using Elk instead of Squirrel for the wing. 224
  • 225. 225
  • 226. Zuluka Ok, last one of 2006. The Zuluka. A Zulu/Matuka hybrid from, I believe, Steve Parton. HOOK – L/S 10 THREAD – BLACK 8/0 TAIL – Fluorescent Red Floss RIB – Silver Oval BODY – Black Chenille WING – 6 Black Cock Hackles COLLAR – Black Cock STEP 1 Wrap the thread down the body catching in the tail as you go. Followed by the rib. STEP 2 Expose the core of the chenille by stripping with your fingers. 226
  • 227. Then tie in and wrap the thread to the head. STEP 3 Wrap the chenille to form the body. Trim the tail. STEP 4 Prepare the hackles for the “Matuka” wing by striping the lower fibres, which will lay on top of the body. You will need to strip 3 hackles for each side of the wing. 227
  • 228. Once you have both pairs of 3 hackles prepared place them together, dull sides innermost and offer up to the hook. Then tie down at the head. 228
  • 229. STEP 5 Holding the wing wet the fibres and stroke them up. Then take the rib through the hackles trapping the wing as you go. Try not to catch any of the wing fibres and check that you keep the wing central on the back. 229
  • 230. STEP 6 Mount and wind the head hackle for the completed fly. 230
  • 231. I hope you have all enjoyed the step by steps and hope you have learned from them. I know I have had great enjoyment doing them and have also learned much in the process. I would like to extend a personal thank you to Hans Weilenmann who has been kind enough to offer hints, tips and constructive criticism, all of which have helped improve my own tying and also how I present the step by steps. Not perfect yet, but getting there. Finally hands up all of you who have observed that, except for two requests, In the last 26 step by steps I have gone through the Alphabet with pattern choice 231
  • 232. Zebra Midge By Kevin McKay Recipe: • Hook: 16 - 26 • Head: None • Thread: 8/0 White and Black • Eyes: None • Tail: None • Rib: White 8/0 • Body: Black 8/0 Thread • Thorax: None • Hackle: None • Wing: White Polar Fibre • Legs: None Step 1 Tie on white thread, wind it to hook bend then tie on your black thread and wind it down to the white thread then back. Step 2 Next wind the white thread to the hook eye spacing it to make a rib. 232
  • 233. Step 3 Tie in the polar fibre. Step 4 Secure with figure eight wraps, do about 6 wraps, three on each side. Step 5 Trim fibre to width of hook gap and tie off head and add cement. 233
  • 234. 234

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