The components of your Radius rod spherical bearing kit are shown in the picture blow. These instructions will
refer to the parts of the kit with the names shown in the figure below. Your kit should have 2 of everything
shown in this picture.
Jack and jack stands
17mm deep well socket
10mm deep socket + extension, and/or 10mm Hand driver (2)
1/4“ Diameter extended length drill bit. 8” or longer
Note: If your local hardware store does not have extended length drill bits, you can order (1/4” Diameter 8”
length) part no. 29515A65 from www.mcmaster.com
Please make sure the person(s) doing the install is familiar with working on cars and suspension components.
Working on cars can be very dangerous and should only be done by a professional mechanic. Make sure you
and your mechanic follow these instructions and use the proper safety measures.
Basic overview of install process:
You will be removing both radius rods from the vehicle, then removing the front cross beam from the car. Next
you will need to drill 5 holes in the cross beam radius rod sockets to mate up with the McKinney RaceWorks
bushings. Last you will install the new bushings into the cross beam and re-install the cross beam and radius
rods. Please follow the detailed instruction on the proceeding pages!
1) Park the car, on level ground, with the parking brake on. Loosen your front lug nuts, but do not remove
them. Then jack the front of the car up, and place jack stands under the side (forward most) jack points.
2) Remove the front lug nuts and wheels
3) Remove the nut on the front of the radius rods (Fig. 1, No. 25, 17mm), then remove the 2 bolts on the base
of the radius rods (Fig 1, No. 23, 14mm). Place the radius rods aside. Note: the threaded section of the radius
rods often become corroded so using some WD-40 on the threads before removing the bolt will help. It is also a
good idea to place some grease on the threads before you re-install the radius rod to slow further corrosion.
4) Remove the 3 bolts (Fig. 2, No 10, 14mm) that bolt the front motor mount (Fig 2, No. 6) onto the front of the
5) Remove the center beam (Fig. 3, No. 1) from the car via the 5 bolts (Fig 3, No. 10, 14mm), and place aside.
6) Remove the front cross beam (Fig. 3, No 5) from the car via the 4 bolts (Fig 3, No 11, 17mm). Remove the
OEM radius rod bushings from the cross beam, and make sure to keep radius rod collars (Fig 1, No 15). You
will need to cut the radius rod collars in half. Any machine shop can do this on a metal cutting lathe.
7) Disassemble the McKinney RaceWorks radius rod
bushing into its separate parts (as shown on page 1).
8) Place the aluminum bearing housing into the front
radius rod socket on the cross beam. Then use a drill
punch to mark the location of your 1st hole. Note:
hitting a drill bit with a hammer can also work to mark
the location of the hole.
9) Remove the bearing housing and drill ONLY the 1st
Mark for 1st hole hole through the OEM bearing socket.
10) Place the aluminum bearing housing back into the radius rod
socket and place a bolt though it and into the new hole you just
drilled. Use one of the locking nuts and tighten down the
aluminum bearing housing using 1 nut and bolt.
11) Use a drill punch to mark the location of the 2nd hole, and
drill the 2nd hole with the aluminum bearing housing still in
place. Try to drill strait down as to not over-bore the bearing
housing. A long drill bit is a must for this!!
12) Place a 2nd bolt through the bearing housing and tighten it
down with a 2nd locking nut.
1 drilled hole
13) You should now have 2 mounting holes with 2 nuts and bolts tightly holding the aluminum bearing housing
in place. Proceed to drilling the last 3 holes at this point. There is no need to place more bolts though as long
as you keep the 1st 2 bolts tightly in place. Make sure you drill strait down with minimal over-boring of the
aluminum bearing housing.
14) After the last mounting hole is drilled, remove the 2
mounting nuts and bolts, and the aluminum bearing housing.
Then clean all metal shaving out of the cross beam.
15) You should have 5 equally spaced mounting holes just
like in the picture to the left.
16) Repeat steps 8 though 15 for the other side of the cross
beam with the other McKinney RaceWorks radius rod
17) Bolt the new McKinney RaceWorks radius rod bushings to the cross beam. Refer to the diagram below,
and make sure all pieces are in this exact order. Torque the nuts and bolts down in a star pattern.
18) You will need to cut the 2 OEM radius rod collars (Fig. 1, No 15) exactly in half. Any machine shop can
do this with a mettle cutting lathe. Any cutting blade about 1/8” will be fine. This should leave you with 4
identical length collars. It is also recommended that you cut an angle into one end of each of the 4 collars (see
picture below). The angled side must face the spherical bearing when installed.
20) Reinstall the cross beam and radius rods in the reverse order of the steps you took to remove them. Each
radius rod bushing must have half length collars on each side of the spherical bearing. This will result with a
fair amount of caster (which is often wanted for competition), but not too much as to cause problems with
21) Re-torque the bearing housing mounting bolts after driving the car for the 1st time. You should also re-
torque the same bolts after your 1st time driving hard on a race track.
Note: Periodically check the radius rods for front/back play. If there is noticeable movement, and the mounting
bolts are tight, then a new spherical bearing will need to be installed. Contact McKinney RaceWorks for
replacement bearings. They are normally $15 a bearing +shipping.
Questions or comments should be directed to:
Or you can call my cell phone:
Product Liability Statement: All products and services provided by McKinney RaceWorks LLC., are for "off-
road" use only. The parts are provided "as is" and carry no guarantee of improved performance by the driver
and or vehicle that they are installed on. The purchase of the products sold by McKinney RaceWorks LLC.
completes an agreement between the buyer and seller that McKinney RaceWorks LLC. and it's associates are
not liable for any damages or injury incurred by the buyer of the products, and the buyer takes total and
complete responsibility for the installation and use of these products. Motorsports are dangerous. Products are
sold without warranty, expressed or implied. No warranty or representation is made as to product's liability to
protect the user from any injury or death. The user assumes that risk.