Harrods: October magazine


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In this issue we celebrate the genius of Christopher Bailey. There are hot Moroccan-style prints in womenswear and a new way to dress down in menswear's bookish separates.

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Harrods: October magazine

  1. 1. porsche design
  2. 2. porsche designfashionß1000Visit Porsche Design at Millionaires Gallery, Third Floor
  3. 3. © 2011 chloé. all rights reserved.
  4. 4. eveningwear, first floor020 7730 1234 ext 3882
  6. 6. Villeret Collection Complete Calendar Half-Hunter Patented under-lugs correctors Secured calendar and moon-phases mechanism Ref. 6664-3642-55BFine Jewellery & Watch Room, Ground Floor
  8. 8. CONTENTS 31 52 58 89 114 October NEW THIS MONTH17 TOP 20 74 HIGH FIVE Launches, special offers and events for October Marigay McKee, Fashion and Beauty Director at Harrods, reveals her top new beauty treats for this month21 ZEITGEIST People and places in the air right now 76 MEN’S GROOMING NEWS New fragrances from Cartier and Superdry; hair and skincare products26 WHAT KIRSTEN DID NEXT from Shiseido; the Grooming Guru tries custom-fit skincare It’s impossible to pigeonhole Kirsten Dunst, as her latest role in Lars von Trier’s art-house movie Melancholia confirms FOOD, INTERIORS & LIFESTYLE FASHION & ACCESSORIES 81 INVEST TO IMPRESS Quality is at the heart of the latest fashions for the home31 FLEURS DU MAL The new Valentino accessory collection is both demure and dark, with 89 ALL BAR YUM forget-me-not florals in shades of purple, blue and black Often quirky, always delicious; artisanal chocolates from the world’s33 WOMENSWEAR NEWS best brands are the ultimate in luxury treats The S MaxMara collection; vintage-style lingerie from Hanro; Gothic- 92 FOOD NEWS inspired eveningwear; new label Aqua; Monica Vinader charity bracelets TWG’s luxury teapots and accessories; a Wine Shop tasting event; the34 STRAIGHT LACE Food Halls’ new Steak House; Rémy Martin’s “Mysteries of Angels” Cognac and chocolate coffret; Swedish food promotion From the ground up, lace is the fabric for the key autumn/winter looks 103 GREAT ESCAPES36 10 MINUTES WITH ROBERTO CAVALLI Everyone loves a magical long weekend. Here are a dozen destinations The king of “more is more” talks leather, leopard and La Dolce Vita within easy reach, all blessed with very special hotels36 MY LIFE IN SHOES 108 CITY GUIDE: VENICE Church’s brogues are the embodiment of AW11’s tomboy-chic aesthetic Visiting Venice off season is the perfect way to avoid the crowds and39 RAYS OF BRIGHT explore the city’s hidden treasures From pale primrose to the deepest orange, yellow diamonds have 110 PRIZE DRAW inspired the latest collections from the world’s haute joaillerie houses Win a three-night spa break for two in a Spa Suite at Grand Resort40 SEEING RED Bad Ragaz, Switzerland, as well as breakfast and dinner at Äbtestube Scarlet accents are the perfect foil to winter’s sombre palette restaurant, butler service, spa treatments and airport transfers42 MENSWEAR NEWS 111 LIFESTYLE NEWS Barbour’s Steve McQueen collection; record label Deconstruction The new rooftop spa at the Four Seasons Park Lane; a heavenly takes up T-shirt design; the S.T. Dupont Élysée fountain pen Zermatt chalet; cool accommodation in Sweden’s original Icehotel; PowerBike, the latest workout innovation; the best of Morocco44 THE BURBERRY EFFECT Christopher Bailey’s reinvention of the Burberry brand is as creative as 112 HARRODS ESTATES his trench coats. But there’s so much more to Burberry than clothes Specialising in prime residential properties in central London and the Home Counties48 HOW TO WEAR CAPES From Chloé to Chanel to YSL, capes are everywhere this season 114 THE ULTIMATE CRYSTAL GAZING Champagne flutes and glasses from the new Orrefors by Karl Lagerfeld52 ROCK THE CASBAH crystal collection are almost too heavenly to drink from Elaborate, exotic and opulent, this season’s prints are all the more extravagant worn boldly mismatched. It’s all in the clash58 DEAD POETS SOCIETY The new way to dress down is to dress up in menswear classics that layer on the bookish charm BEAUTY Cover67 ONLY NATURAL PHOTOGRAPHER ISHI The latest smart-but-simple skincare uses pioneering technology in the SENIOR FASHION EDITOR SARAH WEBB quest for beauty – no surgery required FASHION STYLIST POPPY ROCK FASHION ASSISTANT BECKY BRANCH69 MISS HEAVEN SCENT PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Reviews four perfumes that celebrate unashamedly maximalist luxe CATHERINE O’GORMAN HAIR PAUL DONOVAN72 BEAUTY NEWS MAKE-UP EMMA MILES French perfume house L’Artisan Parfumeur; Guerlain relaunches the Vol MODEL MILLY SIMMONDS at Union de Nuit collection; Philip Treacy redesigns Slendertone Face; Decléor’s wearing Burberry Prorsum coat £2,399 Excellence de L’Age collection; Miss Maquillage goes nail watching and hat £999 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com 15
  10. 10. Top 20 Launches, special offers and events for October 1. Ted Baker dresses Party princesses with an inner scarlet woman will love Ted Baker’s empire-line chiffon dress with a bodice of oversized sequins. £399; exclusive to Harrods. Way In, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com 2. Burberry Prorsum AW11 coats Christopher Bailey continues his mission to own the world of coats, with a lambskin shearling version with a mink collar. It’s a snugglefest for all. £4,000. Men’s Designerwear, Ground Floor 3. La Perla Divina As seductive as its lingerie, La Perla’s new sultry fragrance Divina starts with strawberries and Champagne, then leads into rose and jasmine grounded by amber and vanilla. 30ml, £31; exclusive to Harrods. Perfumery, Ground Floor 4. Parker Ingenuity pen collection Parker’s new Ingenuity Collection features ground- breaking technology in the form of an innovative, flexible writing tip. “Ingenuity” pen £135. The Writing Room, Lower Ground Floor 5. Vacca womenswear True to form, Julie Vacca has created bold style statements in her new Vacca collection, integrating menswear fabrics with an oversized paisley print. Blazer £1,775 and riding trousers £750. Luxury Collections, First Floor 6. Jimmy Choo bags In tune with the trend for ladylike glamour, the “Rosalie” bag from Jimmy Choo is proper and elegant, especially in black snakeskin. £1,450. Egyptian Hall, Ground Floor 7. Leonor Greyl in-store appearance To discover how to really care for your hair, book an appointment with an expert from Parisian haircare brand Leonor Greyl. From 1st to 31st October. Call 020 7225 5954 to book. 8. Warehouse partywear Sequins are big news for AW11, as seen on this party- perfect deep-red number from Warehouse. £100; exclusive to Harrods. Way In, Fourth Floor 9. Bordeaux tasting event Our most popular tasting event is back on The Wine Shop calendar, serving more than 25 wines from the top châteaux. £40. From 7pm to 9pm on 17th October in The Wine Shop, Lower Ground Floor. Call 020 7893 8777 to book 10. Tweezerman Mini Crystal Brow Kit Perfect for people on the go, Tweezerman’s LuxeWine StockFood Edition Mini Crystal Brow Kit helps to keep brows neat and trim. £96; exclusive to Harrods. Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor; and harrods.com Harrods Magazine • harrods.com 17
  11. 11. TOP 20 11. Marc Jacobs “Stam” bag A pale pink and rose “Stam” bag is the ultimate accessory. £2,720; exclusive to Harrods. Room of Luxury II, Ground Floor. From 25th September to 8th October, there will be a Marc Jacobs pop- up shop in Window 6. 12. Aquascutum “Birette” coat Cosy up this winter in Aquascutum’s 100% cashmere “Birette” coat with its fox-fur collar. £1,500; exclusive to Harrods. Designer Studio, First Floor; and harrods.com 13. Nicki Macfarlane childrenswear Tiny bridesmaids will feel like proper princesses in Nicki Macfarlane’s ivory silk organza “Eliza” dresses. From £389. Children’s Formalwear, Fourth Floor 14. Octium jewellery Fine jeweller Octium’s debut collection includes earrings and a ring featuring three rose gold octagonal motifs studded with diamonds. “Tri” ring £5,000. Fine Jewellery & Watch Room, Ground Floor 15. Peuterey “Hurricane Air” jacket In typical Peuterey style, the new “Hurricane Air” jacket is built to withstand extreme weather conditions. £675; exclusive to Harrods. Men’s Contemporary & Casuals, Lower Ground Floor 16. Marigay McKee for Origins Our Fashion and Beauty Director has designed a cool new tote for Origins, with each sale marking the planting of a tree in association with the American Forests Global ReLeaf Program. £85; exclusive to Harrods. Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor 17. Black & Brown children’s belts A new line of belts for miniature fashionistas is signature Black & Brown, featuring brightly coloured leather finished with Swarovski crystals. From £69.95; exclusive to Harrods. Children’s Designerwear, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com 18. Skechers “Pro Speed” running shoes Innovative technology gives Skechers’ new “Pro Speed” shoes the ability to transform impact into reusable energy, literally putting a spring in your step. £89.95. Sport & Leisure, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com 19. Whisky and chocolate event William Curley chocolate paired with more than 20 whiskies from all over the world – what better way is there to spend an evening? £35. From 7pm to 9pm on 13th October in The Wine Shop, Lower Ground Floor. Call 020 7893 8777 to book. 20. Clinique bonus time A cosmetics bag and miniature make-up and skincare goodies are complimentary with the purchase of two or more products. From 27th October to 13th Whisky Fresh Food Images November; exclusive to Harrods. Cosmetics, Ground Floor18 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  13. 13. Benvenuti a casa.* Surround sofa as shown from £5220*Welcome home. Surround Sofa. International Lifestyle Furniture, Third Floor. Telephone: 0207 225 6845
  14. 14. Sarah Lamb as Princess Aurora in The Sleeping Beauty BALLET The Sleeping Beauty While it is undoubtedly sublime entertainment, The Sleeping Beauty is also a work of profound artistic importance. Scored by Tchaikovksy, it was created for the Tsarist court by Petipa, the choreographer who is to ballet what Shakespeare is to theatre. This Royal Ballet production reconstructs the 1946 Sadler’s Wells revival and incorporates the additional choreography of three generations of great British artists – Frederick Ashton, Anthony Dowell and Christopher Wheeldon. The costumes and choreography are every bit as dreamlike and sumptuous as a fairy tale should be, and the Rose Adagio scene – in which Princess Aurora dances with four suitors at her birthday party before a curse sends her into a 100-year slumber – is magical. Akane Takada and Tamara Rojo are among the ballerinas taking on the title role. 22nd October to 21st December at the Royal Opera House FILM The Ides of March Besides exhibiting his effortless charm and devastating good looks in front of the camera, George Clooney has also proved himself an accomplished director. He won an Oscar nomination for Good Night, and Good Luck, an involving tale of McCarthyism in the 1950s shot in black and white, and in The Ides of March – which Clooney both directs and stars in – he again shows how to create engaging drama Ryan Gosling in The Ides of March from hard-hitting political issues. The subject is the tough choices that idealistic politicians have to make, and that eternal question: what dark deeds must you commit in order to achieve power and do good? Clooney plays the man with his eyes on the White House, Ryan Gosling is the aide experiencing a rapid “getting of wisdom” on the campaign trail, while Philip Seymour Hoffman, Paul Giamatti and Jeffrey Wright exhibit various degrees of Machiavellian virtuosity in the dark art of politics. If you still miss The West Wing, here’s what you’ve been waiting for. The Ides of March opens on 28th October in the UK FILM The Three Musketeers The swash and buckle of this classic novel by Alexander Dumas is given a Pirates of the Caribbean-style makeover to pull in a whole new audience in this $80m production. It is still the familiar story, set in 17th-century France, of the young upstart D’Artagnan falling in with the famous Three Musketeers to foil the wicked plans of Cardinal Richelieu and Milady de Winter, but now with a whole new level of action and technology. In this version, battles are fought in the air between gun-laden balloon ships, and Milady (Milla Jovovich) uses spectacular martial-arts skills against her enemies. The cast offers the relishable prospect of Inglourious Basterds’ Christoph Waltz as Richelieu, showing there’s no one better at playing cackling villainy, as well as the intriguing sight of Orlando Bloom playing against type as the devious Duke of Buckingham. Arctic Monkeys The Three Musketeers opens on 12th October in the UK MUSIC Arctic Monkeys The Arctic Monkeys exploded onto the scene a few years back with a historic double-header – reaching number one with their first single, “I Bet You Look Good on the Dancefloor”, followed by Whatever People Say I Am, That’s What I’m Not – the fastest-selling debut album ever in the British charts. The hard-punching combination of guitars, bass, drums and singer Alex Turner’s cruelly barbed lyrics was fresh and vibrant, yet the Sheffield quartet’s cocksure strut also echoed past pop The Sleeping Beauty Bill Cooper glories. This year, they released their fourth studio album, Suck It and See, and might be thought pop-rock elder statesman, were they not only in their mid-20s. This concert at The O2 will be proof that rock’n’roll is alive and well, so long as you know where to look. Support comes from The Vaccines, another critically acclaimed British quartet who know their way around lyrics, riffs and melody in a pared-down style. 29th and 30th October, The O222 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  15. 15. ZEITGEIST Vanessa Redgrave and James Earl Jones in Driving Miss Daisy THEATRE Driving Miss Daisy A period drama rich in humour and emotional power, Driving Miss Daisy won the Best Film Oscar in 1989. Now it returns to the stage in a production that’s already won stellar notices on Broadway. Set among the Deep South’s genteel society during the height of the civil-rights movement, this is the story of a septuagenarian white woman, Miss Daisy, and her black driver, Hoke, and how their relationship changes over that turbulent period. Oscar winner Vanessa Redgrave brings a regal bearing to Miss Daisy, while as Hoke, James Earl Jones reminds us why he is one of the most acclaimed US stage actors of recent decades. Until 17th December at Wyndham’s Theatre BOOK Queen Elizabeth II: Portraits by Cecil Beaton by Susanna Brown The same vision of style that enabled Cecil Beaton to capture 20th- century fashion also made him a fine royal portrait photographer. He first took shots of Queen Elizabeth II as a teenager in uniform during her wartime service, and went on to create definitive images of her coronation in 1953 and of her as a royal mother. Next year, to mark the 60th anniversary of the Queen’s ascension to the throne, the Victoria and Albert Museum will be exhibiting Beaton’s portraits of the Queen. This lavishly illustrated accompanying book, by curator Susanna Brown, explores how Beaton captured rare glimpses of the private individual behind the world’s most public figure. £19.99. Available from Books, Second Floor BOOK Heston Blumenthal at Home by Heston Blumenthal Those lucky enough to have dined at Heston Blumenthal’s Berkshire restaurant, The Fat Duck, know why it was voted the world’s best. It has given rise to some imaginative creations – caviar and white chocolate discs and a flaming sorbet, to name but two. To watch Blumenthal’s kitchen adventures on TV, you might have thought that a cautionary note would be, “Don’t try this at home”, but that’s exactly what he helps us do in his new book. It features techniques that adapt molecular gastronomy for the ordinary kitchen, and among the 150-plus recipes are such surprising taste combinations as salmon and liquorice, as well as a lesson on how to make perfect fish and chips. £30. Available from Books, Second Floor FILM Contagion Remember the sprawling 1970s disaster movies, such as The Towering Inferno, in which a host of stars struggle to survive? Well,Driving Miss Daisy Annabel Clark; frame iStock; Queen Elizabeth II portrait V&A Images Contagion gives the format a medical reboot. This time, the disaster is an airborne virus, and Kate Winslet, Jude Law, Gwyneth Paltrow, Matt Damon and Marion Cotillard are among those facing this lethal threat. The trailer has already caused a sensation, and the film – from Steven Soderbergh (who directed the star-studded Ocean’s Eleven and its sequels, as well as the compelling war-on-drugs drama Traffic) – promises to be as gripping as anything you’ve seen this year. Contagion opens on 21st October in the UK FILM The Adventures of Tintin: Secret of the Unicorn This much-anticipated action-adventure film comes from something of a dream team. Daniel Craig and Jamie Bell lead an all-star cast, the director is Steven Spielberg, the producer Peter “Lord of the Rings” Jackson, and special effects come from the team responsible for Avatar. In other words, this is a class apart from the 3D animated family films of recent years. Adapted from Hergé’s much-loved comic books, the film stars Bell as intrepid reporter Tintin, on the trail of treasure stolen by pirate Red Rackham (Craig). With Tintin, Spielberg brings to the screen a hero whose adventures match the thrills of Indiana Jones. The Adventures of Tintin opens on 26th October in the UK The Adventures of Tintin Harrods Magazine • harrods.com 23
  16. 16. DISCOVER THE MAGIC OF2 0 TH O C T O B E R – 1 8 TH D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 Moroccan chic Escape to a magical wonderland this autumn as Harrods treats you to an enchanting Moroccan extravaganza you will never forget. Indulge in a feast for the senses as you explore a luxurious mosaic-adorned riad, savour outstanding Moroccan hospitality, and select from an array of exquisite, artisanal products. INSPIRING MOROCCO, THIRD FLOOR
  17. 17. INTERVIEW What Kirsten did next From child vampire to tragic Beth in Little Women, romantic comedies to action films, it’s impossible to pigeonhole Kirsten Dunst, as her latest role in Lars von Trier’s apocalyptic art-house movie Melancholia confirms BY MATT MUELLER Ever since she landed the Best Actress prize at this year’s summery Louis Vuitton dress – she’s just come from the Upper Cannes Film Festival for her role as a depressed bride in West Side launch of her friend Sofia Coppola’s new Vuitton Melancholia, Kirsten Dunst has been feeling in a celebratory collection – she strides elegantly to our corner table, where mood. “It was a big deal; it is a big deal. I keep celebrating,” she orders chilled radish soup and an iced latté for lunch. she says with infectious delight. The celebratory splurge has For those who haven’t paid attention to Dunst’s career in come with friends, family and colleagues. Dunst is proud of recent years, Melancholia serves as one of those stand-up-and- her victory, and rightly so. “I’ve been working in this industry take-notice moments that any actress with serious aspirations for a long time. Even though I’m only 29, it’s been 20 years dreams of happening. It’s no surprise to hear Dunst say that of my life, and it feels good to be awarded something.” she’s always paid heed to who has won the best actress prize Melancholia comes from the mind of celebrated and “because it felt like a really important thing to win as an controversial Danish provocateur Lars von Trier. The film actress in people that I admire”. Cannes’ bigwigs asked Dunst features Dunst as Justine, a bride who sinks into a terrible to stay for their awards ceremony, telling her the film might depression on the day of her opulent wedding party but comes win something. Von Trier, having been declared “persona to find a strange comfort in the fact that the Earth is on an non grata” by the festival following a bizarre rant expressing apocalyptic collision course with the giant celestial body of sympathy with the Nazis, was unlikely to be the recipient the title. Impending doom suits Justine – and Dunst rises but Dunst wasn’t counting her chickens. She borrowed a to the occasion with a performance of wonderful depth dress from Chanel and turned up at the Palme d’Or shindig and subtlety against von Trier’s lush dreamscape visuals. “thinking not negatively but very rationally so that if it didn’t The notion of Dunst starring in a seriously adult European happen, I wouldn’t be upset. When I was speaking to Lars art-house film might surprise some people, and it’s not earlier that day, he said, ‘If I win for anything, please accept stretching matters to say that Melancholia is set to galvanise it on my behalf and say that I’m a big idiot.’” the actress’ image and career. As it was, her triumph shifted the spotlight away from For an entire generation, Dunst has been the embodiment von Trier’s strange antics – and she insists all is forgiven. of hip American teendom, but watching her stroll into a “He’s a friend but the things he said were inappropriate,” restaurant in New York’s West Village dispels any notion she says, adding, “He apologised. He felt very bad because that she’s still that winsome high-school cutie with the it affected all of us.” But it hasn’t tainted her fond memories Trunk Archive snaggle-toothed smile. She’s still sweet, and cute, the smile of making the film in Sweden, not least because the fact still endearingly imperfect (a trait that gives her beauty an that the Danish filmmaker had sought her out in the first unrefined quality and makes her interesting to watch). But place “was a huge deal. When he told me that I had the today she’s also a vision of sophisticated adult poise. Sporting a part, I got off the phone, ran upstairs and was just jumping f26 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  18. 18. INTERVIEW CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Dunst as depressed up and down, cheering. I was like a little kid.” and the film’s director Sam Raimi – now that their bride Justine in Lars von Trier’s Melancholia; For someone who’s been on movie screens since she participation in the Spider-Man franchise has come in Sofia Coppola’s The Virgin Suicides; with Simon Pegg in How to Lose Friends was a little kid (appearing in more than 60 movies to to an end. Which is why Melancholia, and her and Alienate People; as pre-adolescent vampire date), Dunst has appeared in her fair share of non- Best Actress victory, have come along at precisely Claudia in Interview with the Vampire; playing girl-next-door Mary-Jane Watson to Tobey serious roles. In recent years, she’s probably registered the right time for Dunst and her career. Maguire’s superhero in Spider-Man most prominently as an endearing romantic comedy She’s honest about how her experiences have presence (Wimbledon, Elizabethtown and How to informed the character of Justine. Dunst revealed in Lose Friends and Alienate People), or as love interest 2008 that she had sought treatment for depression, Mary-Jane Watson in the Spider-Man trilogy. But what and agrees that this difficult time had helped her has always marked out Dunst from her Hollywood understand Justine’s disconsolate depths. “Every film peers is an admirable willingness to seek out riskier I do is a cathartic experience, and I should be able to characters – an attribute no doubt instilled in the take things from my life,” she says. “I think that’s the actress by a mother who was happy to let her daughter only way people feel truly moved by a performance. take on the role of the pre-adolescent vampire Claudia And depression isn’t an easy thing to portray on film. in Interview with the Vampire, despite the character’s People get embarrassed talking about it, so I hope overt sexual overtones. It’s a role that many other stage that people who have been through a similar thing, mothers steered their daughters well clear of, and one or are going through it, will get something out of it.” that Dunst remembers with abiding fondness. She adds with a smile, “It’s funny when people ask “I was like the princess on that film,” she recalls. me if Melancholia is a sci-fi movie, because it’s not.” “Tom [Cruise] was so sweet and Brad [Pitt] is such With her mother of Swedish-Alsatian heritage a nice guy. I was the only girl in a movie with these and her father German-born, Dunst feels an affinity two hunks. I was taken care of very nicely. And I was for Europe and makes regular sojourns to Germany to protected too. My character was sexualised, but my visit relatives. One of her biggest joys with Melancholia acting teacher would describe things in a way that is the fact that her grandfather, who lives in Hamburg, a little girl could relate to, like ‘Imagine that you’re is “getting all this attention in Germany now”. hiding your favourite toy from your brother’ and “I feel like I have a European sensibility,” muses I’m ambitious in that would result in me giving a look that could be Dunst, “and I’m ambitious in the way that I want Melancholia The Kobal Collection; all other images Rex Features seen to be coquettish.” to do the best work I can do. I want to push myself. the way that From those vampiric origins, Dunst went family- friendly for a few years in films like Jumanji and I want to work with great people.” But she isn’t about to turn her back on the mainstream roles that I want to do the Little Women before striking out into an intriguing have brought her so much recognition and success. late-adolescent phase, playing a suicidal teen in The She’s worked with von Trier, but she’s not about to best work I can Virgin Suicides for neophyte director Sofia Coppola dash into the film-making arms of any Tomas, Dirk –“if I wasn’t in the movie, it would be one of my or Milos who comes calling. “I like doing big films, do. I want to push favourites”, she explains. As Dunst reveals, “I’ve and I miss doing comedies,” she vouches. “I’ve been often chosen roles not because it’s the best script but crying too much on screen recently. I’m ready to myself. I want to because I can do something different with the role.” have fun now, for a little while at least.” HMN work with great She was also in the frame for some of Hollywood’s most coveted young actress parts, landing the key Melancholia opens on 30th September in the UK people role of Mary-Jane Watson in Spider-Man and its two sequels. Calling it “a landmark role in my career”, Matt Mueller contributes to Total Film, Screen Dunst admits that she misses “our crew” – that International, Wonderland, Entertainment Weekly is her co-stars Tobey Maguire and James Franco, and The Guardian28 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  20. 20. FASHION Fleurs du mal The scarf – how very demure. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli – how very dark. The new Valentino accessory collection is both demure and dark, with forget- me-not florals in shades of purple, blue and black PHOTOGRAPHER ANDY BARTER FASHION STYLIST POPPY ROCKValentino scarf £210,exclusive to Harrods.Available fromScarves, Gloves &Hats, Ground Floor;and harrods.com Harrods Magazine • harrods.com 31
  21. 21. Q&A 10Roberto SLUG minutes with Cavalli F If there’s one thing you can count on a Roberto Cavalli dress ashion’s X and Y chromosomes have gone haywire. for, it’s serious va-va-voom factor. Since launching his label From pop’s favourite provocateur Lady Gaga 40 years ago (Brigitte Bardot and Sophia Loren were early unveiling her snarling, smoking male alter ego fans), Cavalli has set the bar for yacht-party-appropriate gowns; (say hello to Jo Calderone) to men in skirts at today he counts Jennifer Lopez, Gisele and Cheryl Cole among the SS12 collections (take a bow Givenchy, Rick his followers. Ruffles, patchwork, lace, leather and, of course, Owens, Yohji Yamamoto) to male model Andrej lots and lots of leopard print are Cavalli design signatures. His Pejic walking the Jean Paul Gaultier couture flamboyant, exotic aesthetic continues through from the main catwalk in a wedding dress, the current buzzword line to his newest venture, the Roberto Cavalli Gym collection. In is androgyny. Undoubtedly, the most pervading example of fashion’s Cavalli’s world, more is more. Shy, retiring types need not apply. current appetite for gender play is the predominantly masculine mood of winter’s womenswear collections. There are boxy blazers, Leopard print or snakeskin? sharp suiting and tuxedos across the collections – even at that I love leopard print; it’s a part of the Cavalli DNA. vanguard of unabashed femininity, Dolce & Gabbana. It’s said, Minimalism or maximalism? with a hint of resignation, that “boys will be boys”; well, this season, Maximalism, no question. girls will be boys too if they feel like it. Jennifer Lopez or Victoria Beckham? Masculine dressing is empowering in the same way that overtly They’re both good friends of mine. I was in Cannes with feminine dressing is; it’s a chance to be an amplified version of Jennifer last year. And Victoria, we go way back. She’s so ourselves. There’s a sense of innate confidence and effortless sexiness sweet and funny; it’s always a pleasure to see her. to a woman in men’s clothing that says simultaneously, “I don’t Florence or Milan? need to try too hard” and “don’t mess with me” (think of Helmut Florence is my city. I love it for the art, for the culture, Newton’s iconic 1975 shot of Yves Saint Laurent’s “Le Smoking” for the incredible landscape. But Milan is where I do suit). Tomboy chic is liberating and intelligent (no toe-crushing my business, it’s where I have my fashion shows and where stilettos or pleasing-the-wrong-kind-of-man cleavage here). my showroom is. The definitive tomboy shoe is a brogue (with all its allusions to The Sixties or the Seventies? formal suiting) and the go-to brand for brogues is Church’s, the Ah, the Seventies. I began in the Seventies; I still remember Northamptonshire-based shoemaker with a worldwide reputation my first pair of printed jeans. for its impeccably handmade shoes. In business since 1873 and Leather or lace? with a history dating back to 1675, Church’s is the antithesis of fast Italians and leather go together. And Florence’s heritage is all tied up fashion. Sartorially astute women who know the appeal not only in the creation of leather, which was first produced here way back in of smart classics but also of tomboy dressing have already cottoned the 13th century. There are still many workshops in Florence that on to the timeless appeal of the Chelsea boots, loafers and brogues treat leather in the traditional way. from the quintessentially English brand. Church’s shoes are coolly Sailing or horse racing? detached from trends (any synchronicity with the zeitgeist is simply Sailing. I absolutely love to sail, the feeling of freedom. I’m at incidental), but for the right amount of hard edge this season, the my happiest when I’m sailing. studded “Burwood” brogues, with their rock-chick detailing, are a Art Nouveau prints or Ming china pattern? smart choice. Surprisingly versatile, the mannishness of the shoe can Florence Getty Images; still from La Dolce Vita Rianna-Pathé/Kobal Collection/Pier Luigi Art Nouveau prints. either be counterbalanced with flirty silhouettes and pretty prints Print or patchwork? or embraced with cropped cigarette pants, tailored shirts and sharp Both are a part of Cavalli heritage, so it’s difficult to choose. jackets. Church’s brogues are a world away from towering heels and My patchwork jeans were a huge success. But prints are yet equally, if unexpectedly, sexy; this may well be a man’s world, where I started and where my heart is. but it would be nothing without some serious tomboy attitude. Ferrari or Ducati? – By Laura Jordan Both. It depends on my mood. Restaurants or nightclubs? Nightclubs. I don’t really enjoy going to restaurants. I prefer to stay at home and eat with friends and family. Church’s “Burwood” Photography or painting? brogues £320. I love both. My grandfather was a great painter, but I’m a better Available from photographer than a painter. I take my camera everywhere. The Shoe Salon, Cindy Crawford or Naomi Campbell? First Floor Cindy: a goddess and a great friend.FROM TOP La Dolce Vita or Roman Holiday?Jennifer Lopez La Dolce Vita.wearing Cavalli; Credits TK Imagesthe Ponte Vecchio Sexy or romantic?in Florence; La Romantic, for sure. I’m a very romantic, emotional personDolce Vita; and I like to take a romantic, traditional approach to design.Roberto Cavallilooks for AW11 Available from International Designer Room, First Floor 36 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  22. 22. InternatIonal DesIgner roomFIrst Floor
  23. 23. PROMOTIONCharmingbells of MayElegant and poetic, Shaun Leane’snew Maybell collection captures theessence of woodland flowersHe’s renowned for pushing the boundaries in the rarefied worldof fine jewellery, yet Shaun Leane’s creativity never plays secondfiddle to luxuriousness. His jewellery is as beautiful as it isprovocative, as exquisite as it is innovative. His distinctiveaesthetic – romantic with a dark edge – has won him a number ofinfluential fans and collaborators over the past two decades. Theseinclude Alexander McQueen, for whom Leane created stunning,often macabre, always theatrical jewellery, and that icon ofavant-garde couture, muse and heiress Daphne Guinness. Thiscoupling of artistic vision and intricate craftsmanship has seenLeane named UK Jewellery Designer of the Year on fouroccasions. His latest coup is the prestigious Couture DesignAward, which he picked up for a bespoke necklace, inspired bythe nocturnal-blossoming Queen of the Night flower, designed tocommemorate Boucheron’s 150th anniversary. The beauty of the natural world is also harnessed in Leane’slatest fine jewellery collection. Maybell is inspired by theelegantly curved blooms of the Lily of the Valley (or May Bell)and features graceful 18kt white gold racemes (branches) thatbow under the weight of intricate diamond-pavéd flowers. Thebell-shaped blossoms feature on earrings, a ring, a cuff and the FROM TOP Shaun Leane Maybellcentrepiece of the collection, a dramatic necklace that exemplifies collection 18kt white gold,Leane’s outstanding artistry. diamond and cultured pearl necklace £9,150; 18kt white gold and white diamond ring £3,550,Available from Designer Jewellery, Ground Floor earrings £12,550 and studs £2,245
  24. 24. STYLE SLUG Seeing red Top to toe is not for the faint-hearted, but scarlet accents are the perfect foil to winter’s sombre palette Stylist Becky Branch Credits TK Images Available from Men’s Accessories, Men’s Contemporary & Casuals, Men’s Lab and The Men’s Shoe Salon, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s Designerwear and Designer Jewellery, Ground Floor; and harrods.com40 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  25. 25. Exclusively at Harrods. Sport & Leisure, Fifth Floor
  26. 26. NEWS Barbour channels Steve McQueen Back in 1964, so the story goes, when the US motorbike racing team were en route to East Germany to compete Pens with in the International Six Days Trials, they stopped off in London. So concerned were they about the weather that panache they decided they needed special European rain- and mud-resistant jackets. The Barbour International was their jacket of choice and thus was inducted into fashion’s hall of fame. To celebrate its 75th anniversary, Barbour The reputation of S.T. Dupont’s is relaunching the jacket in distressed olive or black, fountain pens leapt about a billion each resplendent with a stars-and-stripes lining. notches when they were adopted “Penton” jacket £429. Available from Menswear, by the President of France in Lower Ground Floor; and harrods.com the 1950s. Although the brand had an international reputation for fine writing instruments that ON TREND TO A “T” stems back to the late 1800s, the appointment to supply the Deconstruction needs no introduction French government gave the brand a new gravitas. Named to club-culture vultures. Dance-music after the presidential residence, lovers who like to wear their hearts on their the new Élysée pen lives up to its powerful connections. chests will party all night long for the brand’s Available in black lacquer or new T-shirt line featuring slogans and graphics palladium, the fountain pen, made famous by the record label. And, rollerball and ballpoint have a smooth writing action, according to Mark Farrow, Creative Director thanks to the patented of Deconstruction, the T-shirt is just the start. S.T. Dupont gel ink. On the horizon is a full collection of garments From top “Elysée” fountain pens £380, £390 and £500. that sum up the aesthetic of the legendary Available from dance-music imprint. T-shirts £39.95 each. The Writing Room, Available from Men’s Lab, Lower Ground Floor Lower Ground Floor RETRO SKI JACKETS It’s all in the jeans This season your jeans should mainly be slim, dark and a little worn-in, with a couple of strategically placed snags for good measure. Ahead of the denim curve as usual, Evisu is launching a capsule collection of just such jeans – narrow leg in “worked” wash – to celebrate its 20th anniversary. The three new styles each feature a limited-edition special sign-off, including pocket prints, back- pocket embroidery and a surfeit of platinum- coloured rivets across the waistband. They also display the famous Evisu seagull logo, slimmed down and sleeker – handily matching the mood of the jeans. Jeans £129. Available from Men’s Lab, Lower Ground Floor42 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  27. 27. Available at Harrods onMen’s Contemporary & Casuals, Lower Ground Floor The Men’s Shoe Salon, Lower Ground Floor Luxury Collections, First Floor Sport & Leisure, Fifth Floor
  28. 28. FASHION SLUG The Burberry effect Christopher Bailey’s reinvention of the Burberry brand is as smartly creative as his trench coats. But there’s so much more to Burberry than clothes BY DEBORAH BEE/ PHOTOGRAPHER ISHI/SENIOR FASHION EDITOR SARAH WEBB C all me dull, but on a June Angeles. In March 2011, Burberry Prorsum’s AW11 collection morning last year, on my became the most-viewed show ever. The show was live-streamed walk to work, I decided to to screens in Piccadilly Circus and through multiple-media formats, count trench coats. I don’t and has been viewed by more than 80 million people. The opening usually count trench coats. of its largest store in China, the Burberry Beijing event – which In my impromptu survey, included a 3D virtual and real-time fashion show – has been viewed I allowed: any shade of beige, by 1.3 billion people. This is fashion as we now know it. brown, pastel or cream, plus Burberry’s vast global HQ on Horseferry Road in Westminster white, cropped or long, pedestrians only, and just women. On a is as imposing a structure as you would expect from a 1930s 12-minute, not-so-busy stretch of Covent Garden, I counted 57. ex-government building. Behind the automatic plate-glass doors, This, by anyone’s standards, is a fashion trend gone viral. This is however, the atmosphere is one of relaxed sophistication – the the Burberry effect. A single flap of Christopher Bailey’s creative receptionists are elegant, the seating precisely positioned, and the wings and the world’s high streets are hit by a fashion hurricane. air ideally conditioned. On vast plasma screens, the world’s most- Fashion as we know it began in 1966 when Yves Saint Laurent watched fashion show is playing out, notching up a few more launched the first prêt-à-porter collection; Christopher Bailey was viewers. On the top floor, taking up the corner office, is not yet born. Up to that point, there was haute couture and there the man at the helm, Chief Creative Officer Christopher Bailey. were dressmakers. The fashion-conscious who couldn’t afford the “I don’t mind admitting that I’m geeky,” says Bailey, looking best Parisian fashion houses relied on their own dressmaking skills, anything but. He’s wearing the sophisticated uniform of the clever or those of the local seamstress, to run up something similar. and successful – a black, slim-fitting turtleneck and dark jeans. To those who knew about such things – that was a bit shoddy. He looks at least 10 years younger than his 40 years. “I enjoy During the 1960s, a new mood was evolving in fashion. technology,” he continues. “I like playing with things. I understand The traditional drip of trends from the top down was being technical processes. I couldn’t actually write a program. I have undermined by street fashions that were clawing their way up. a team – an amazing team. I’ve got lots of different teams.” The leather jackets, skinny turtlenecks and bubble skirts made On the way up to Bailey’s office, I’ve been given a tour of popular by a new generation of art students were being reinterpreted the building by the PR team. I’ve seen the lower ground floor in cashmere and crocodile for couture customers. The importance staff café, where the food is free, (“because once you’ve had a of this volte-face was not that rich people suddenly had street cred, coffee, lunch and tea, it really starts to add up”). I’ve visited the but that it was harder to tell the “haves” and the “have-nots” apart. showrooms for each of Burberry’s 50-plus annual collections Almost overnight, fashion had become more inclusive. for Burberry Prorsum, Burberry London, Burberry Sport and When Saint Laurent created his cheaper, off-the-peg Rive Gauche Burberry Brit and others, as well as Burberry Body, the brand’s line, fashion’s democratisation was beginning, sparking a number new fragrance. On the design floors, the design teams can be of other ready-to-wear collections in Paris, then later in London, subdivided into a button team, a bag team, a coat team etc, each Milan and New York. The ready-to-wear shows took their cues from creatively messy with buttons, bags or coats. In the basement couture with twice-yearly schedules – autumn/winter in March and is the online team, spilling out of a series of studios set up to spring/summer in September. And over the next 45 years, nothing photograph garments, retouch those photos and get them online much changed. The traditional showroom presentation has been within 20 minutes. There’s a social media team. There’s a team for replaced by catwalk shows in vast white tents tucked behind the music. There’s a boardroom designed to look like other Burberry classical architecture of each fashion capital. boardrooms around the world so that when video conferencing, The scale of the shows has increased – at each event there are the wall-sized screen creates the illusion of one big meeting room. likely to be around 60 looks shown on approximately 20 models. There’s an exhibition atrium and a vast training room. All in all, The audience – made up of buyers and the press – is usually it feels like an inordinate amount of effort to, um, sell clothes. around 1,400 people, at most. Until Christopher Bailey. “Burberry is about so much more than just clothes,” says Bailey. In 2009, Burberry live-streamed its SS10 show directly from “Burberry is about experiences. It’s about welcoming people the show space in London to a worldwide audience, where in, whether it’s via social media or via music, through Burberry viewers could comment on the collection in real time. The Acoustic. Maybe they found us online or went into a store. There f AW10 womenswear show was filmed in 3D and shown live at simultaneous events in New York, Paris, Dubai, Tokyo and Los Burberry Prorsum coat £2,399 and belt from a selection44 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  29. 29. Nobody is interested in just old stuff, but people love heritage. They want the history reconstructedaccording to how they live now Harrods Magazine • harrods.com 45
  30. 30. are so many routes to Burberry. These days a brand has to be about much more than just selling. Otherwise your brand just becomes a product. I have always thought that you have to make sure that, at the heart of your brand, there’s more than just product.” Burberry experiences are currently as follows: Burberry Facebook has more than seven million fans; Burberry YouTube videos have been watched by five million people globally; Burberry Art of the Trench (a social media project that displays photos of fans in their trench coats) has had 11 million page views; Burberry Acoustic (a showcase for young British bands) has over eight million fans; Burberry.com is translated into five languages and is accessible in 45 countries; there are over 300,000 followers on Twitter. Is it hard, I wonder, for Bailey to keep up with all the traffic that he is creating? “I embrace that side of social media,” he says. “I love that it’s a two-way conversation. I don’t read it all – I dip in and out. You couldn’t look at every single thing. I care about it, but I don’t worry about ‘comments’, because as soon as you start obsessing about them, you lose your focus and your point of view, and you’re just worrying too much about what other people think. I’m not seriously expecting everyone to like everything we do. It’s just not possible.” True to his Yorkshire roots, Bailey is straight-talking and for a fashion bod, refreshingly level-headed. Born in Halifax, the son of a joiner and a window-dresser, he went directly from London’s Royal College of Art in 1993 to New York to work for Donna Karan. Three years later, he became senior designer for Tom Ford at Gucci. In 2001, at the age of just 29, Bailey took up the reins of Creative Director at Burberry. Between 2002 and 2011, the company has grown from being worth £1.1bn to nearly £6bn. The tired little English label has had a miraculous turnaround, thanks largely to Bailey’s vision, together with that of Angela Ahrendts, Burberry’s current CEO. “I had no reservations about taking the job at Burberry,” Bailey says. “I saw the potential almost immediately. The brand was like a huge, incredible diamond that had been trodden into the ground over the years – a bit dusty and dirty. All we had to do was shine each of the facets to make it beautiful again. I had a strong sense that the brand had gravitas. Angela and I had a shared vision, but we didn’t create the gravitas. Thomas Burberry was an incredibly innovative man. He understood design and function, and communicating to people. Burberry had gravitas already; it just needed translating.” Burberry’s history stretches back 155 years, to when a 21-year-old Thomas Burberry opened his first store in Basingstoke, specialising in outerwear. During the First World War, Burberry’s gabardine rain-resistant coats proved a lighter, more practical option to the heavy serge greatcoats that were standard issue, and thus the trench coat was born. During the 20th century, the Burberry trench coat led the brand from its zenith during the 1940s and 1950s, when it was iconic movie-star garb, to its nadir in the 1990s, when the brand became almost mired in its own history. In 1997, Burberry hired Rose Marie Bravo as CEO, and the company’s fortunes changed. In 2001, Bailey came on board and, just a year later, the company went public on the London Stock Exchange. Between 2002 and 2006, the company’s profits quadrupled. Bravo’s successor, Ahrendts, has worked with Bailey on Burberry’s focus, ensuring that the heritage is relevant for a new generation. “It’s been my philosophy since I started here that Burberry needed to exist in a contemporary world,” explains Bailey. “We needed to use the history and the culture, our 155 years’ worth of stories, as the foundation, but we needed to communicate46 Harrods Magazine • harrods.com
  31. 31. it in a modern way. Nobody is interested in just old stuff, but people love heritage. They want the history reconstructed according to how they live now.” Bailey’s reconstruction of the Burberry brand starts with product. Every season, a new incarnation of the Burberry trench appears in the Prorsum show – too many incarnations now to even imagine; in pastel-pink ruched silk; with leather biker sleeves; with a fur cape in orange tweed. But the story only begins here. Bailey says that one third of his job is coming up with ideas, one third is executing the ideas, and the final third is making sure the context is right. And the context is where the technology comes in. “I think of Burberry as an old/young company. It’s 155 years old, but the team is really young, so technology is embedded in the culture. Everybody communicates on a mobile device and is obsessed with the internet. I’m obsessed with the internet and I’m not even young. No one can stop it, and it’s faster than all of us. That is the future.” The fact that Bailey has mastered the mix of classic and contemporary in each garment is skilled enough in fashion terms. The fact that each collection dictates at least some of the world’s key trends every season is testament in part to his global reach and belief in fashion democracy. “I hate the ‘exclusive’ mentality,” he states. “I look at it and think, What is that about? I’m much more comfortable with ‘inclusive’. I’m very open about the fact that not everybody can afford a Burberry trench coat. But that doesn’t mean they’re not good enough to be part of the Burberry club. I can’t afford a private jet, but that doesn’t mean I don’t want to look at them. I don’t care if someone visits our website and just stays on Burberry Acoustic because right now, in their lives, they can’t afford to buy a fragrance, bag or coat. I just don’t think it’s right to exclude people – it’s so old-fashioned. Young people don’t think like that. It’s a different It’s a different generation that thinks you have to exclude people in order to create luxury. The last time I looked, fashion and clothes were there to generation that make people feel good about themselves, not to make people feel insecure or not good enough. I find it very ugly, vulgar, sad.” thinks you have to Today the inclusiveness of the Burberry brand extends to stores in 45 countries, from Dubai to Spain. And since spring/summer exclude people is simultaneously autumn/winter somewhere else in the world, the collections are trans-seasonal as well as trans-cultural – broad in order to enough to cover everything and everyone. “The seasonal collections are all weird now in this industry, something I find frustrating. create luxury It’s all slightly nonsense. So we think global – but we’ve always thought global. Thomas Burberry had a store in Buenos Aires 100 year ago. Ten years ago we had over 20 stores in China – that was before anyone else even started thinking about China.” But despite the unprecedented success that Burberry has enjoyed, and Bailey’s absolute belief in the power of the internet, some stalwarts of the fashion industry refuse to embrace it. “The internet doesn’t suit everyone,” Bailey concedes. “Some brands might not have the right culture. And it’s not something you can just play at. Either do it properly or don’t bother. Some people are afraid of the internet. If you haven’t grown up with it, it’s daunting. They open up their system preferences and suddenly there’s this gobbledygook of numbers and letters. You need to forget all that. When you buy a building, you don’t get intimidated by the pipes and wiring; they just make your building work for you. The Net is the same. It’s just a vehicle for your message. Another thing to keep in mind is that f THIS PAGE Burberry Prorsum coat £2,500 and trousers £349; OPPOSITE PAGE Burberry Prorsum coat £9,999 and trousers from a selectionCredits TK Images Harrods Magazine • harrods.com 47