© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Particle Characterization for Cosmetics
and Cosmeceuticals
Ian Treviranus
ian.tre...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
What we’ll talk about
Featured technologies
Importance to industry
Application...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Your interests
Available technologies
How to accurately, reproducibly measure
n...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Featured technologies
LA-950 / LA-300
Laser Diffraction
SZ-100
Dynamic Light Sc...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
LA-950: Laser Diffraction
Particle size performance leader
Ninth generation
Ul...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
SZ-100: Nanoparticle Analyzer
 Size: .3 nm - 8 µm
 90° and 173°
 Zeta potentia...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
-60
-50
-40
-30
-20
-10
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 7.0 8.0 9.0 10.0
...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
What we’ll talk about
Featured technologies
Importance to industry
Application...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Why Do We Care?
Particle size affects…
Texture/skin feel
Color density/tint
S...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Particles in Cosmetics
Any product containing a powder
Pigments, talc, mica
Em...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Original Foundation: Pan-Cake
 Foundation and powder
in one
 Base was talc (par...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Create our Own Product
Base
Talc, rice powder
Pigment
Iron oxide
Filler
Cla...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Measure Powders as Powders
Webinar TE016: Optimizing Dry Powder Measurements
 Si...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Reduce Solvent Use
Fully automated pumping system
40 mL total volume
Built-in ult...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
LA-950 Method Expert
 Unique guided method development
 Optimize parameters
 C...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
What we’ll talk about
Featured technologies
Importance to industry
Application...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Base: Rice Powder
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Iron Oxide – 170 Shade
LA-950 wet accessories
Disperse powder into a liquid
Can m...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Gold Glitter Powder
Wet Dry
Measure wet + dry, choose preferred
Verify correct P ...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Mica
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Quality Control / Troubleshoot
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Kaolin Clay
Note: small % below
100 nm, making this
a “nanoparticle.
Safety conce...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Sunscreen with TiO2
Powder dispersed in
water using surfactant
and ultrasound.
No...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Measure without dilution
 Concern that dilution
in anything but
perfect backgrou...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
ZnO used in sunscreen
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Nanoparticle Safety: Cosmetics
 “Preliminary scientific
research has shown
that ...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Nanoparticle Safety
 NGO Friends of the Earth issue report
requesting ban on all...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Stability
Want stable
dispersion
Either suspensions
or emulsions
Suspensions
s...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Skin Cream
Emulsion w/SPF 15
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Liposome Delivery
Active
ingredient
Liposome approaches
skin barrier layer
Liposo...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Liposome Size & Stability
Nanoparticle Size Zeta Potential
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Multiple Technologies
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Retinol Formulation - Delivery
“Retinol contained in the core space
of the vesicl...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Summary
Many cosmetic products either powder
(particle) based, or contain powder...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
See you at NYSCC
Annual suppliers event May 13-14
Edison, NJ  HORIBA has an of...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Danke
Gracias
Большое спасибо
Grazie‫ر‬ْ‫ك‬ُ‫ش‬‫ا‬
Σας ευχαριστούμε
감사합니다
Obrigad...
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
www.horiba.com/particle
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Particle Characterization Technologies For Cosmetics Applications

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HORIBA Scientific hosted a webinar on particle characterization technologies for cosmetics applications on March 10th, 2010. Topics include: why particle characterization is important, an overview of technologies, unique requirements of cosmetics applications, and best practices for acquiring the best, most accurate data.

This presentation is archived with the original webinar video in the Download Center at www.horiba.com/us/particle.

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  • The photograph shows the Zeta Potential probe. The sketch on top illustrates its structure. There is a piezo-electric crystal inside a stainless steel cylinder. It generates a sound pulse of a certain frequency. We use 3 MHz in default. This pulse propagates through the delay rod and eventually comes into the liquid through a gold window. This gold window is roughly the diameter of the sound beam. When the sound pulse enters the dispersion, it induces a motion of the particles relative to the surrounding liquid. This motion drags ions of the diffuse layer towards one of the particle poles. For instance in this picture the liquid that envelops the particle moves from the right to the left. It drags ions (cations) to the left hand side pole. This motion builds up excessive positive charge at the left pole. The right pole gains negative charge because compensating screening charge moves to the left. The net effect of all this is that the particle gains a dipole moment. Furthermore, this dipole moment reverses at a rate synchronous with the applied acoustic field. All particles in front of the gold window gain similar dipole moments under the influence of the sound wave. These individual dipole moments sum up to create an electric field, and as a result there will be a difference between the potential at the central gold electrode and a surrounding electrode. The current that passes between these two electrodes fluctuates at the same frequency as the incident ultrasound wave, and the magnitude and phase of this current is measured with sensitive electronics. The conversion of acoustic to electric energy is referred to as the “Colloid Vibration Current” and was predicted 70 years ago by Debye. The equations on the right hand side of the slide show that this current is proportional to the density contrast between particle and liquid, the volume fraction and the “dynamic electrophoretic mobility”. For small particles this mobility parameter is practically identical to the “electrophoretic mobility” measured using traditional microelectrophoresis. Electrophoretic mobility, in turn, is proportional to the ζ-potential. This is the simplest electrophoretic theory, created 100 years ago by Smoluchowski and widely used in microelectrophoretic instruments. Compared to Electrophoresis, you can see that Electroacoustics is simply a different way to move particles relative to the liquid,. Both methods eventually yield an “electrophoretic mobility”, which is the source then for calculating the ζ-potential using practically the same Smoluchowski theory. This is the simplest mode of operation. Later I will describe limitations of the theory, and present more sophisticated theories that are required in some important applications.
  • Particle Characterization Technologies For Cosmetics Applications

    1. 1. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Particle Characterization for Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals Ian Treviranus ian.treviranus@horiba.com www.horiba.com/us/particle
    2. 2. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. What we’ll talk about Featured technologies Importance to industry Application examples Q&A
    3. 3. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Your interests Available technologies How to accurately, reproducibly measure nanoparticles Best practices Zeta potential Pastes Data interpretation (webinars TR008, TR010, TR015)
    4. 4. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Featured technologies LA-950 / LA-300 Laser Diffraction SZ-100 Dynamic Light Scattering & Zeta Potential CAMSIZER & CAMSIZER XT Dynamic Image Analysis PSA300 Static Image Analysis SA-9600 Flowing Gas BET Surface Area
    5. 5. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. LA-950: Laser Diffraction Particle size performance leader Ninth generation Ultra durable Lowest total cost of ownership Suspension, emulsion, powder, paste, gel 10 nanometer – 3 mm
    6. 6. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. SZ-100: Nanoparticle Analyzer  Size: .3 nm - 8 µm  90° and 173°  Zeta potential: -200 - +200 mV  Patented carbon coated electrodes  Molecular weight: 1x103 - 2x107 g/mol •Nanoparticles •Colloids •Proteins •Emulsions •Disperison stability
    7. 7. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. -60 -50 -40 -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 7.0 8.0 9.0 10.0 pH Zetapotential/mV Measures particle surface charge High zeta potential = stable Low zeta = unstable, aggregate Zeta Potential: Dispersion Stability, IEP
    8. 8. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. What we’ll talk about Featured technologies Importance to industry Application examples Q&A
    9. 9. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Why Do We Care? Particle size affects… Texture/skin feel Color density/tint Smoothness Powder flow/compaction Zeta potential tells us… Product stability
    10. 10. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Particles in Cosmetics Any product containing a powder Pigments, talc, mica Emulsions (creams, lotions) Liposomes; simple, complex Types of cosmetics containing particles (emulsion droplets)
    11. 11. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Original Foundation: Pan-Cake  Foundation and powder in one  Base was talc (particle), not oil or wax  Applied with wet sponge  Patent in 1937  By 1940 1 in 3 N American women owned & wore Pan- Cake
    12. 12. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Create our Own Product Base Talc, rice powder Pigment Iron oxide Filler Clay Glitter Mica SPF TiO2 They’re all particles! Can measure size of all using one system: LA-950
    13. 13. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Measure Powders as Powders Webinar TE016: Optimizing Dry Powder Measurements  Simplify dispersing  Quick, easy, clean  Measure in natural state for more actionable results  Lower costs
    14. 14. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Reduce Solvent Use Fully automated pumping system 40 mL total volume Built-in ultrasonic probe Application Note 176: Minimizing Sample Quantity MiniFlow Fraction Cell 5, 10, 15 mL volume Needs only micrograms
    15. 15. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. LA-950 Method Expert  Unique guided method development  Optimize parameters  Choose the best refractive index  Create “one button” SOPs
    16. 16. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. What we’ll talk about Featured technologies Importance to industry Application examples Q&A
    17. 17. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Base: Rice Powder
    18. 18. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Iron Oxide – 170 Shade LA-950 wet accessories Disperse powder into a liquid Can measure down to 30 nm Use ultrasound?
    19. 19. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Gold Glitter Powder Wet Dry Measure wet + dry, choose preferred Verify correct P for dry powder feeder
    20. 20. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Mica
    21. 21. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Quality Control / Troubleshoot
    22. 22. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Kaolin Clay Note: small % below 100 nm, making this a “nanoparticle. Safety concerns?
    23. 23. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Sunscreen with TiO2 Powder dispersed in water using surfactant and ultrasound. Note: 14.5% < 100nm Safety concerns?
    24. 24. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Measure without dilution  Concern that dilution in anything but perfect background will change PSD  Possible solution with Paste Cell accessory  Small amount of paste/gel/cream between two glass plates
    25. 25. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. ZnO used in sunscreen
    26. 26. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Nanoparticle Safety: Cosmetics  “Preliminary scientific research has shown that many types of nanoparticles can be toxic to human tissue and cell cultures…”  Suggests banning all cosmetics with particles <100nm  Many sunscreens contain ZnO or TiO2 particles <100 nm
    27. 27. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Nanoparticle Safety  NGO Friends of the Earth issue report requesting ban on all skin care products w/particles <100nm  Claim: some nanoparticles are dangerous, so ban all  Industry claims some nanoparticles are safe, so don’t worry  FDA says we only believe data in peer reviewed journals, but form task force to investigate  In 2012 Cosmetics manufacturers must notify European Commission of any “nanoscale materials” in products
    28. 28. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Stability Want stable dispersion Either suspensions or emulsions Suspensions sediment & flocculate Emulsions phase separate, creaming or coalescence good bad good bad
    29. 29. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Skin Cream Emulsion w/SPF 15
    30. 30. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Liposome Delivery Active ingredient Liposome approaches skin barrier layer Liposome fuses with skin barrier layer Liposome dissolves & releases actives (retinol?) Penetrates into skin
    31. 31. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Liposome Size & Stability Nanoparticle Size Zeta Potential
    32. 32. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Multiple Technologies
    33. 33. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Retinol Formulation - Delivery “Retinol contained in the core space of the vesicle which has a mean diameter of 10~50nm”… Useful for improving skin health
    34. 34. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Summary Many cosmetic products either powder (particle) based, or contain powders Wide range of applications measured by laser diffraction DLS for nanoparticle size and zeta potential Quantify sub-100 nm with either technology
    35. 35. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. See you at NYSCC Annual suppliers event May 13-14 Edison, NJ  HORIBA has an office there! Booth 520 Say hi! to Mitch & Dan
    36. 36. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Danke Gracias Большое спасибо Grazie‫ر‬ْ‫ك‬ُ‫ش‬‫ا‬ Σας ευχαριστούμε 감사합니다 Obrigado Tacka dig 谢谢ขอบคุณครับ ありがとうございました धन्यवाद நன்ற
    37. 37. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. www.horiba.com/particle Receive news of updates View application & technical notes (170+), webinars (70+), white papers. Talk to us, ask questions labinfo@horiba.com Ian Treviranus Product Line Manager ian.treviranus@horiba.com
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