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Particle Characterization for Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals

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Ian Treviranus of HORIBA Scientific discusses the many, many applications of particle characterization within the cosmetics industry. Particle size analysis is the most extensively used technology and …

Ian Treviranus of HORIBA Scientific discusses the many, many applications of particle characterization within the cosmetics industry. Particle size analysis is the most extensively used technology and is covered in detail. Other parameters discussed include particle shape and zeta potential.

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  • 1. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Particle Characterization for Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals Ian Treviranus ian.treviranus@horiba.com www.horiba.com/us/particle
  • 2. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. What we’ll talk about Featured technologies Importance to industry Application examples Q&A
  • 3. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Your interests Available technologies How to accurately, reproducibly measure nanoparticles Best practices Zeta potential Pastes Data interpretation (webinars TR008, TR010, TR015)
  • 4. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Featured technologies LA-950 / LA-300 Laser Diffraction SZ-100 Dynamic Light Scattering & Zeta Potential CAMSIZER & CAMSIZER XT Dynamic Image Analysis PSA300 Static Image Analysis SA-9600 Flowing Gas BET Surface Area
  • 5. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. LA-950: Laser Diffraction Particle size performance leader Ninth generation Ultra durable Lowest total cost of ownership Suspension, emulsion, powder, paste, gel 10 nanometer – 3 mm
  • 6. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. SZ-100: Nanoparticle Analyzer  Size: .3 nm - 8 µm  90° and 173°  Zeta potential: -200 - +200 mV  Patented carbon coated electrodes  Molecular weight: 1x103 - 2x107 g/mol •Nanoparticles •Colloids •Proteins •Emulsions •Disperison stability
  • 7. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. -60 -50 -40 -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 7.0 8.0 9.0 10.0 pH Zetapotential/mV Measures particle surface charge High zeta potential = stable Low zeta = unstable, aggregate Zeta Potential: Dispersion Stability, IEP
  • 8. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. What we’ll talk about Featured technologies Importance to industry Application examples Q&A
  • 9. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Why Do We Care? Particle size affects… Texture/skin feel Color density/tint Smoothness Powder flow/compaction Zeta potential tells us… Product stability
  • 10. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Particles in Cosmetics Any product containing a powder Pigments, talc, mica Emulsions (creams, lotions) Liposomes; simple, complex Types of cosmetics containing particles (emulsion droplets)
  • 11. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Original Foundation: Pan-Cake  Foundation and powder in one  Base was talc (particle), not oil or wax  Applied with wet sponge  Patent in 1937  By 1940 1 in 3 N American women owned & wore Pan- Cake
  • 12. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Create our Own Product Base Talc, rice powder Pigment Iron oxide Filler Clay Glitter Mica SPF TiO2 They’re all particles! Can measure size of all using one system: LA-950
  • 13. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Measure Powders as Powders Webinar TE016: Optimizing Dry Powder Measurements  Simplify dispersing  Quick, easy, clean  Measure in natural state for more actionable results  Lower costs
  • 14. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Reduce Solvent Use Fully automated pumping system 40 mL total volume Built-in ultrasonic probe Application Note 176: Minimizing Sample Quantity MiniFlow Fraction Cell 5, 10, 15 mL volume Needs only micrograms
  • 15. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. LA-950 Method Expert  Unique guided method development  Optimize parameters  Choose the best refractive index  Create “one button” SOPs
  • 16. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. What we’ll talk about Featured technologies Importance to industry Application examples Q&A
  • 17. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Base: Rice Powder
  • 18. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Iron Oxide – 170 Shade LA-950 wet accessories Disperse powder into a liquid Can measure down to 30 nm Use ultrasound?
  • 19. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Gold Glitter Powder Wet Dry Measure wet + dry, choose preferred Verify correct P for dry powder feeder
  • 20. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Mica
  • 21. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Quality Control / Troubleshoot
  • 22. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Kaolin Clay Note: small % below 100 nm, making this a “nanoparticle. Safety concerns?
  • 23. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Sunscreen with TiO2 Powder dispersed in water using surfactant and ultrasound. Note: 14.5% < 100nm Safety concerns?
  • 24. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Measure without dilution  Concern that dilution in anything but perfect background will change PSD  Possible solution with Paste Cell accessory  Small amount of paste/gel/cream between two glass plates
  • 25. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. ZnO used in sunscreen
  • 26. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Nanoparticle Safety: Cosmetics  “Preliminary scientific research has shown that many types of nanoparticles can be toxic to human tissue and cell cultures…”  Suggests banning all cosmetics with particles <100nm  Many sunscreens contain ZnO or TiO2 particles <100 nm
  • 27. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Nanoparticle Safety  NGO Friends of the Earth issue report requesting ban on all skin care products w/particles <100nm  Claim: some nanoparticles are dangerous, so ban all  Industry claims some nanoparticles are safe, so don’t worry  FDA says we only believe data in peer reviewed journals, but form task force to investigate  In 2012 Cosmetics manufacturers must notify European Commission of any “nanoscale materials” in products
  • 28. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Stability Want stable dispersion Either suspensions or emulsions Suspensions sediment & flocculate Emulsions phase separate, creaming or coalescence good bad good bad
  • 29. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Skin Cream Emulsion w/SPF 15
  • 30. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Liposome Delivery Active ingredient Liposome approaches skin barrier layer Liposome fuses with skin barrier layer Liposome dissolves & releases actives (retinol?) Penetrates into skin
  • 31. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Liposome Size & Stability Nanoparticle Size Zeta Potential
  • 32. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Multiple Technologies
  • 33. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Retinol Formulation - Delivery “Retinol contained in the core space of the vesicle which has a mean diameter of 10~50nm”… Useful for improving skin health
  • 34. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Summary Many cosmetic products either powder (particle) based, or contain powders Wide range of applications measured by laser diffraction DLS for nanoparticle size and zeta potential Quantify sub-100 nm with either technology
  • 35. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. See you at NYSCC Annual suppliers event May 13-14 Edison, NJ  HORIBA has an office there! Booth 520 Say hi! to Mitch & Dan
  • 36. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. Danke Gracias Большое спасибо Grazie‫ر‬ْ‫ك‬ُ‫ش‬‫ا‬ Σας ευχαριστούμε 감사합니다 Obrigado Tacka dig 谢谢ขอบคุณครับ ありがとうございました धन्यवाद நன்ற
  • 37. © 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved. www.horiba.com/particle Receive news of updates View application & technical notes (170+), webinars (70+), white papers. Talk to us, ask questions labinfo@horiba.com Ian Treviranus Product Line Manager ian.treviranus@horiba.com

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