Market Trends for Chrome-free and eco- leather

Market Trends for Chrome-free and eco- leather Beverley Thorpe September 30, 2009

Drivers for Cr-free leather
Legislation: European Union’s Directive on End of Life Vehicles (2000)
Consumer demand
Eco-labels and standards
green chemistry R&D
Auditing protocols

Why Chromium-free demand?
CrVI is restricted and highly hazardous
(carcinogen)
CrIII used in tanning process could oxidise to CrVI through excessive neutralisation prior to dyeing or application of bleaching (oxidising agents) to create pale leathers.
Chromium is persistent: it cannot be destroyed and will always be present in some form within the environment. Incineration, composting and gasification will not eliminate chromium; prevents eco-recycling of materials

Directive on End of Life Vehicles (2000)
Recycling quotas and design objectives
Substances bans
Mandates hazardous material phase outs in new cars put on European market as of July 2003:
Pb
Hg
Cd
Cr VI
… to improve design and production of new vehicles to facilitate their dismantling, reuse, recycling, and recovery

Auto shredder residue (ASR) is hazardous
Mixture of plastics, fluids, rubber, glass, dirt, and metallic fines which makes it hazardous waste in many countries
ASR is approx 25% of the car, almost all disposed to landfill
Clean Production Action - CAW/EPR

The market responds Lincoln's MKR concept car features "guilt-free" luxury (in the words of the manufacturer) such as chrome-free leather, an oak instrument panel made from recycled wood, mohair carpet, and soy-based seat foam. Another significant low-emission accomplishment is the development of luxury chrome-free leather - designed to comply with the European Union end-of-life directive .

The driver and passenger seats, thin in design with a focus on spinal support, are covered in Pearl chromium-free leather and trimmed with Leaf Green stitching, giving the interior a sporty and luxurious look. Chrysler 200C EV Concept - February 25, 2009

In line with IUV's determination to care for the environment, it has also developed chrome-free tanned automotive leather , in the production of which the use of heavy metal salts has been eliminated. It is friendly to the users and can be disposed of in an environmentally safe manner . IUV is also the first company to have entered and established itself in the car industry with high-quality pigskin leather…, Among IUV customers are some of the largest car producers, including AUDI. AUTOMOTIVE PIGSKIN LEATHER FROM IUV

All Leather In All Volvo Car Interiors Chrome-Free For Allergy-Sufferers In addition to benefiting those with chrome allergy, it also reduces environmental impact from the tanning process. All leather in Volvo car interiors also fulfills the requirements of Oeko Tex Standard 100. GOTHENBURG, Sweden – January 21, 2009: To alleviate for those who have chrome allergy, all leather used in Volvo car interiors has been treated in a chromium-free tanning process, using either natural or synthetic tanning materials.

for full substance list visit: /www.oeko-tex.com

Press Information 05/08/2009 Textiles Tested for Harmful Substances and Produced Sustainably - Products from ready-to-wear clothing manufacturers in Asia to be first producers in Asia to be marked with Oeko-Tex® Standard 100plus

Chrome tanned leather cannot pass EN71 test which is also used for children’s (under 36 months old) footwear

Cr substitution research ongoing
Iron, Titanium or Zirconium salts can be substituted for chromium ( www.cprac.org published 2000)
Observation: leather texture more stiff
Vegetable tannins can be used but slow down the tanning process
Observation: ultrasonication and supercritical fluid extraction may reduce impregnation time for alternative tanning agents Introduction to Green Chemistry, Albert Matlock. 2002
Aldehyde tanning (wet white) widely used for automotive industry (no disposal problems of shavings and trimmings; less chemicals used; quality of the leather is improved…)

What about other chemicals in process and product?
All chemicals in process should be screened for inherent hazards
Substitution should be priority for any carcinogen, mutagen, reproductive toxic, persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic chemicals
Pentachlorophenol? Tetrachloroethylene? Formaldehyde? Azo dyes? Nonyl phenol ethoxylates? Fungicides? Toluene? Xylene?

www.blcleathertech.com
Inputs for improved eco-profile
Key elements in eco leather

Tannery Environmental Auditing Protocol for Gold/Silver/Bronze scoring – British Leather Technology Centre. Oct 2008. www.blcleathertech.com
Tanners/suppliers involved
Asiatan
Industrija Usnja Vrhnika d d
ISA - Tan Tec Guangzhou, China
LeFarc SA de CV
Pieles Temola S.A. de C.V.
Perrin-Rostaing Tannery
PrimeAsia Leather Corporation
Sadesa SA
Shanghai Richina Leather Co. Ltd.
Simona Tanning Inc
Wolverine Leathers
Suppliers:
BASF AG
Crest Leathers
E-Leather Ltd
Lanxess
Companies involved
Adidas-group
Chaco Inc
Clarks International
Ikea of Sweden
Levi Strauss & Co.
Marks & Spencer plc
New Balance Athletic Shoe, Inc.
NEXT Retail Ltd
Nike, Inc
Pentland Group plc
The North Face
The Timberland Company
Wolverine World Wide Inc

Competitive advantage
25 audits have been undertaken since 2008 in the following countries:
Brazil
Dominican Republic
China
India
Mexico
Netherlands
Taiwan
Thailand
UK
USA
Vietnam
Cradle to cradle focus
More focus now on full supply chain accountability and cradle to cradle scope ie. source of leather > processing > product > end of life
Leather Working Group now assessing standards for sourcing of animals. Animal hides from deforested rainforests now an industry concern

Thank you for listening
Beverley Thorpe
International Director
Clean Production Action
[email_address]
+1 514 933 4596
www.cleanproduction.org

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Market Trends for Chrome-free and eco- leather

by Greenpeace Argentina on Oct 05, 2009

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Market Trends for Chrome-free and eco- leather — Presentation Transcript