Table of ContentsFast Skis and Skiing Introduction and Background for fast skis and skiingWaxing Tools List of necessary tools to get started waxing Detailed instruction on prepping new skis and stoneDetailed Waxing for New or ground skis for waxing and the keys to making skisStone Ground Skis fast Detailed instructions for race waxing... all the littleRace Waxing stepsStep-by-Step Waxing General easy waxing instructions ( BeginningInstructions Waxing & Quick Waxing)Flite # 11 Waxing Flite Applications for both ironing and corkingInstructionsPaste Waxing Slick Pro Paste Waxing easy system to fast skisWaxing Selection Check out the wax master for hints on waxing Tips for waxing and skis flex for skiing on ManMan Made Snow Made SnowStructure How When & Why to add structureMiscellaneous General Tips on Ski WaxingSummaryQuestions or Comments?
Fast Skis & SkiingAs the ski season approaches, we receive more and more questionsabout how to wax new skis for snow and what is the proper waxingtechnique.Remember, waxing skis can be as much art as science and is constantlychanging with time and new technologiesSo.... Before we start waxing lets look at what makes for fast skis andfast skiingChecking Questions1. Hows the training going, Skiing is a technique driven sport, havinggood technique and being able to ride a flat ski are keys to fast skiing...itsnever to late to sign up for some ski lessons or to join a training group2. Do your Skis and Boots fit correctly, Boots that are worn out or do fitcorrectly will allow your feet to move around in the boot making ski controldifficult. Tip - Purchase the boots the fit the best first and the bindingssecondSkis that do not fit correctly do not glide well and may be difficult tocontrol.If you are not sure of the boot and ski fit take them to a local shop for a fitcheck.3. Base Condition, Hows the base condition, now is the time to repairdeep gouges, look for shiny glazed spots as these may be areas that areburnt and will require metal scraping or stone grinding for repair. (Only usea metal scraper if you are experienced)If the skis have never been fast they may need stone grinding or a fitcheck4. Waxing Technique, Like good skiing, waxing takes practice --- somelessons may be helpful.Take the time to attend a waxing clinic at your local shop or stop by forsome pointers.If everything is yes here we are ready to wax skis ....
Waxing ToolsTo get started, a few things are important• Wax Bench - Many Choices here, all sorts types and sizes -- Check withyour local Dealers for some options• Waxing Iron - Only use an iron designed for Ski Waxing• The next items are much less expensive;o Plastic scraper,o Ski brushes (fiber and metal), Horse Hair, Nylon and Metalo Thermal Pado Grove cleaning toolo White Scotchbrite Pado Selection of waxes
Detailed Waxing Instructions for New or Stone Ground Skis1. Open the Skis Base Aggressively brush the ski base from tip to tail with mediummetal brush.This will open the ski base clean out wax and dirt and allow better wax penetration of thenew wax.2. Remove Base Hairs Brush the ski from tip to tail using a White Scotchbrite Padwrapped over a Speed Block or a flat cork. This is to keep Scothbrite pad flat andprevent it rounding off the ski edges.Next, use a razor tool held at a 90° angle to the ski and lightly scrape the ski severaltimes to remove the fine base hairs. Check the razor blade edge after each pass andrepeat until no gray fillings are left on the razor3. Hot Wax Process Using a ski waxing iron, drip a generous amount of Base Prep waxonto the ski base and iron in from tip to tail.The wax will act as an insulator, a generous layer helps keep the iron off the skis base,use about one drip every 1/2 inch, more if you are inexperienced. When ironing in thewax, draw the iron down the ski holding a molten bead of wax about 2 to 3 inchesbehind the iron, and always keep the iron moving. If necessary a second pass can pickup any places that are missed.4. Scraping off the Wax Scrape the grove with a grove tool and clean off the edgeswhile the ski is still warm. Then let the ski cool slowly to room temperature beforescraping the basesScrape the wax off using short easy strokes again working from tip to tail until all the waxis removed(Tip) Use a sharp scraper and keep it sharp A scraper sharpener makes it easy to givethe scraper a few passes each time before scraping.5. Brushing out the ski Several options here If you are experienced A fine metal brushor a roto brush can shorten the brushing process, the tendency here, however, is to overbrush the ski with these tools and remove too much wax, so proceed cautiously whenusing metal brushes or power tools after waxingPreferred, use a Nylon brush followed by a horse hair brush. When it appears no furtherwax is being removed stop.6. Repeat steps 3 to 57. Waxing SequenceNew Skis 5 to 6 layers or Base Prep followed by 2 to 3 layers of HS-30 Red, 2 to 3 layersof HS-20 Blue and a few layers of HS-10 Green - add the wax of the day and go skiingStone Grinding This depends on whether the skis were deep ground to remove gougesand burnt bases or were just "touched up"For "deep ground bases" follow the same procedure described in the new skis sectionas most of the wax will be removed in the grinding process.For "touched up skis" the process is shortened as not as much wax is removed in thegrinding process. Reduce the Base Prep applications about 2 to 3 layers followed by theHS-30 Red and a few layer of HS-20 Blue, then apply the wax of the day and ski.Tip -- Skis generally do not get fast until they get some hard wax into them. This issomething to try if your skis do not seem to be fast or are not getting fast -- add a fewlayer of HS-10 Teal Wax
Race Waxing1. Open the Skis Base Aggressively brush the ski base from tip to tail with fine metalbrush for cold condition and medium metal brush for warmer conditions use 15° F as ageneral break point for the brushes. This will open the ski base clean out wax and dirtand allow better wax penetration of the new wax.2. Remove Base Hairs Brush the ski from tip to tail using a White Scotchbrite Padwrapped over a Speed Block or a flat cork. This is to keep Scotchbrite pad flat andprevent it from rounding of the ski edges.Next, use a razor tool held at a 90° angle to the ski and lightly scrape the ski severaltimes to remove the fine base hairs. Check the razor blade after each after each passand repeat until no gray fillings are left on the razor.3. Hot Wax Process Using a ski waxing iron, drip a generous amount of Base Prep waxonto the ski base and iron in from tip to tail. The wax will act as an insulator, a generouslayer helps keep the iron off the skis base, use about one drip every 1/2 inch, more if youare inexperienced. When ironing in the wax, draw the iron down the ski holding a moltenbead of wax about 2 to 3 inches behind the iron, and always keep the iron moving. Ifnecessary a second pass can pick up any places that are missed.4. Hot Scrape Hot scrape and brush out the skis for an additional cleaning. Then repeat step 3 and allow the ski to cool to room temperature before scraping5. Scraping off the Wax Scrape the grove with a grove tool and clean off the edgeswhile the ski is still warm. Then let the ski cool slowly to room temperature beforescraping the basesScrape the wax off using short easy strokes, again working from tip to tail until all wax isremoved(Tip) Use a sharp scraper and keep it sharp A scraper sharpener makes it easy to havea sharp scraper, just give the scraper a few passes over the sharpener each time beforescraping.6. Brushing out the ski Several options here If you are experienced A fine metal brushor a roto brush can shorten the brushing process, the tendency here, however, is to overbrush the ski with these tools and remove too much wax, so proceed cautiously whenusing metal brushes or power tools after waxingPreferred is to use a Nylon brush followed by a horse hair brush. When it appears nofurther wax is being removed stop.7. Wax System The Fast wax system is to layer up the ski with wax starting with BasePrep and go to an under layer of the Sport wax followed Low Fluoro or High Fluorowaxes depending on conditionsWax Example for Humid Conditions Recommendations for the 2007 BirkieHot Scrape Base Prep1 Layer of HS-30 Red2 Layers of HSF-30 SalmonFlite corked or ironed in over the top the HSF-30 Salmon For extremely Humid condition an added layer of Flite 11 will improve speed significantly
Step-by-Step Waxing Instructions1. Always work the ski from the tip to the tail. (never in reverse direction). Iron in the wax scrape and brush from tip to tail2. Clean the ski. o Brush off the ski base with a fine metal or nylon brush o Melt wax onto the ski base and iron in from tip to tail o Scrape warm with a plastic scraper o Brush out with the Nylon Brush3. Base Preparation. o If the ski base is damaged check with your local Dealer for advice o Remove the fibrils with a White Scotchbrite pad o Structure the ski base for current conditions (see section on Tips)4. Wax for current conditions and allow ski to cool prior to scraping withplastic scraper.5. Brush the ski with a fiber brush to clean the structure.Repeat steps 4 and 5.6. Structure the ski base for current conditions (see Tips)Every Day Quick Waxing1. Brush out the ski with a fine metal or Nylon Brush2. Melt in wax for the current conditions and iron in from tip to tail3. Grab a snack while the ski cools4. Scrape and brush out -- go skiingEven Better Yet1. Brush out the ski with Nylon Brush2. Rub in a layer of Slick Pro3. Grab a Snack4. Cork in with a Thermal Pad, Bush out and Ski
Flite # 11 Application InstructionsIron Instructions1. Follow the Fast Wax instructions for preparing and waxing the ski base.2. Apply Flite powder to the ski base and distribute evenly.3. Iron in from tip to tail, even pressure and steady slow speed with theiron (low heat).4. Cork the ski from tip to tail, use high pressure rapid speed to makepowder blend into the ski base.5. Let the ski cool slowly.6. Brush with coarse then fine brush always working the ski from tip totail.7. Polish ski base.Corking Instructions1. Follow the Fast Wax instructions for preparing and waxing ski base.2. Apply Flite powder to the ski base and distribute evenly.3. Cork the Flite powder working the ski from tip to tail, use high pressureand rapid speed to generate enough heat to make powder blend into the ski base.4. Brush with coarse then fine brush always working the ski from tip totail.5. Polish ski base.Paste WaxingA new system for High Performance Waxing is the new Slick Pro PasteWax Line.Slick Pro gives the performance of a Hot Melt wax in ease of a PasteWax.1. Rub on Slick Pro using the inclosed foam applicator2. Let dry for 3 to 5 minutes3. Buff in with the Speed Block4. Brush out with a horse hair brush and Ski5. For added durability repeat 1 to 4 for a second coatSlick Pro is a great wax at the race site when conditions from theforecast.Saves time when traveling,Is a great training wax during the week.Great for families with multiple skiers --Change the wax on everyones skisin just a few minutesCheck out the details in the newsletter
Wax SelectionWhen selecting a wax, sometimes we have to trust the weather report.However, even with our weather forecasting models, occasionally anunexpected front comes through changing the conditions.If the skis must be waxed the day before a race and conditions areuncertain, try to select a wax slightly colder than forecasted and apply afiner structure than normal. This way, if the temperature change is warmerthan expected, structure can be added at the race site with a rolling rilingtool and your skis will be OK.The best bet is to have a back up pair of skis waxed for alternateconditions. Try not to error on the side of waxing too warm. Going from awarm wax and large structure to a cold wax and polished skis is difficult toaccomplish at the race site.Third option is to carry a selection of the Slick Pro Paste wax. Slick Procan be applied at the race site for quick waxingLink to the Wax Master.Artificial or man-made snow - referred to from here on as MMS, acombination of snow, dirt and oil.Keep in mind as we make recommendations for MMS the 80 – 20 ruleapplies: the rule is good 80% of the time.MMS is a hard particle of ice, not a hollow flake of snow. For this reason,wax recommendations will change slightly from those for natural snow.MMS can also vary wildly because of the volume traffic on the trail and thegrooming and tilling of the snow-- On MMS Ski flex can be a major factor, try to keep a medium and stiffskis on hand and use more structure than normalIn temperatures below freezing, wax a littler harder with more structureand a stiffer ski. In temperatures above freezing, wax cooler with a largerstructure. MMS holds more moisture in cooler temperatures, however,MMS does not mush out as easily in warm temperatures and the baseunder the MMS is generally ICE.
General recommendations: cold dry wind from the north o Temperature in the single digits, HS-0 White – Universal grind, stiff ski. o Temperature in the teens to low 20’s, HSF-10 Green – Universal grind, stiff to medium flexed ski. o Temperature in the upper 20’s, HSF-20 Tan – Universal structure, stiff to medium flex skis. o Temperature in the upper 20’s, HSF-30 Salmon – Universal structure with a light rill, still to medium flex ski.General recommendations: wind from the south, warm and humid o Temperature in the upper teens-low 20’s, HSF-20 Tan – Universal grind, stiff to medium flexed ski o Temperature in the upper 20’s to low 30’s, HSF 30 Salmon – Universal structure with a rill, still to medium flex ski o Temperature at or above freezing, HSF-30 Salmon – Rill or wet grind, stiff skiSki Maintenance: WAX more often. MMS is abrasive and will wear waxfaster than snow. If you do not wax your skis MMS will eat up your bases.StructureIf you have one pair of skis, changing the base structure will be a regularoccurrence as snow type, temperature and conditions change.1. Polish the base for cold conditions and be sure to keep the ski surfacevery smooth.2. For intermediate conditions, 15 to 25 F, brush the base with a fine metalbrush.3. For conditions just below freezing use a medium metal brush ifconditions are dry, rill if wet conditions4. Above 35 F, begin with a fine rill and increase the size of the rill as thetemperature increases. Apply structure in a discontinuous pattern.If several pairs of skis are available, try to set up a pair of skis up for eachcondition. Here stone grinding will help. Use a fine grind for coldconditions and increase the size of the grind as the temperature warms.The ski grinding technician, should be able to maximize your skisperformance by matching the proper stone grind, with the ski flex, for thesnow conditions. For more information on stonegrinding options, seeStonegrinding Options for Peak PerformanceIf you plan on having your skis stone ground, be sure seek out a shop thatspecializes in stone grinding
MiscellaneousKeep both the metal and plastic scrapers sharp. Use a diamond stone onthe metal scraper. Hold the scraper at a 90 degree angle and rotate in afigure eight pattern. Sharpen the plastic scraper with the Fast WaxEversharp Scraper Sharpener. It will keep your scraper perfectly flat as itsharpens the edge.Select waxes by snow conditions. Many times with large air temperatureswings, the snow will remain constant or lag significantly behind the airtemperature, especially in wooded areas. If possible, always test your skison the trail not in the stadium.Cold, clear or windy conditions or cold new snow; anticipate abrasivesnow and wax for colder than expected temperatures.Low areas, woods, generally shaded areas; wax for colder than expectedtemperatures.Warm nights, new snow; expect moist snow and use structure andfluorinated waxes. In addition, overcast conditions are generally humid,and fluorinated waxes typically work best.SummaryThe main thing to remember is be consistent with waxing. Use the sameprocess each time and develop a waxing log the same as a training log,noting structure, temperature, snow conditions and performance.Wax your skis often, the more skis are waxed, the faster the skis becomeand the better you become at waxing.Test glide skis often. Use a steep down hill for high speed evaluation, lowangle hills for slow speedand up-hill for striding. Many times top racers choose a race ski by theway it climbs.Most of all, have fun and ski often.Questions or Comments?Please contact Dan Meyer at email@example.com with any technical questions orcomments on the Fast Wax website.