Codes & Conventions: Fashion
Term Test <ul><li>Take home </li></ul><ul><li>Close analysis </li></ul><ul><li>Approximately 1000 wds </li></ul><ul><li>Qu...
Mid-Term Review <ul><li>Representation = 1 of central practices that produce culture </li></ul><ul><li>Culture = re shared...
Codes & Conventions <ul><li>representational systems construct cultural meanings thru  codes & conventions </li></ul><ul><...
Codes <ul><li>Codes = signs - signify  </li></ul><ul><li>specific instances of conventional meaning </li></ul><ul><li>orga...
Fragments of a Fashionable Discourse <ul><li>history of gender differences in fashion </li></ul><ul><li>central argument: ...
Great Masculine Renunciation   <ul><li>15th – 17th c., ornate dress was class (not gender) prerogative – protected by law ...
16 th  century
17 th  century
18 th  century fashion
Industrial revolution <ul><li>rise of middle class </li></ul><ul><li>emphasis on industry </li></ul><ul><li>Previously, id...
19 th  century woman <ul><li>Leisure - her job became display of husband’s wealth thru clothing </li></ul><ul><li>psychic ...
Silverman’s Goal <ul><li>questioning of cultural/ideological assumptions about gender differences </li></ul><ul><li>fem su...
Looking/being looked at  <ul><li>construction of subjectivity  </li></ul><ul><li>mirror phase   </li></ul><ul><li>Self rec...
Dress & adornment   <ul><li>circuit of visual exchange   </li></ul><ul><li>make human body culturally visible   </li></ul>...
Feminine dress <ul><li>frequent & dramatic changes   </li></ul><ul><li>shifting of erotic gravity  -  whole body sexualise...
Dress as contestation <ul><li>clothing as subcultural flag or assertion   </li></ul><ul><li>“ ironic distance” = masquerad...
Sum up <ul><li>cultural capital  </li></ul><ul><li>political  </li></ul><ul><li>norms and domination  </li></ul><ul><li>re...
Intermission
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Codes & Conventions Fashion

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Fashion, apparel, textile, merchandising, garments

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Transcript of "Codes & Conventions Fashion"

  1. 1. Codes & Conventions: Fashion
  2. 2. Term Test <ul><li>Take home </li></ul><ul><li>Close analysis </li></ul><ul><li>Approximately 1000 wds </li></ul><ul><li>Question available Nov. 29 </li></ul><ul><li>Due: last class, 6 Dec. 2004, 5:00 pm </li></ul><ul><li>No extensions or lates </li></ul>
  3. 3. Mid-Term Review <ul><li>Representation = 1 of central practices that produce culture </li></ul><ul><li>Culture = re shared meanings </li></ul><ul><li>meaning produced & exchanged thru lang – repository of cult values & meanings </li></ul><ul><li>representational system – uses signs & symbols) to represent concepts, ideas, feelings </li></ul><ul><li>representational systems as productive of culture = “symbolic order” </li></ul><ul><li>meanings not already there, or attributes of things </li></ul><ul><li>always constructed & therefore always in process </li></ul><ul><li>active ongoing cultural activity - always implicated with issues of power, control, regulation </li></ul>
  4. 4. Codes & Conventions <ul><li>representational systems construct cultural meanings thru codes & conventions </li></ul><ul><li>conventions defined by repetition – vs. sporadic </li></ul><ul><li>meanings more or less arbitrary </li></ul><ul><li>symbolic order – cultural discourse – systems of representation </li></ul><ul><li>meaningful or conventional through repetition, learning, cultural reinforcement </li></ul>
  5. 5. Codes <ul><li>Codes = signs - signify </li></ul><ul><li>specific instances of conventional meaning </li></ul><ul><li>organization of signs - relate to each other thru coding systems </li></ul><ul><li>systems of references, associations, connotations </li></ul><ul><li>fashion system also has highly articulated rules & codes </li></ul>
  6. 6. Fragments of a Fashionable Discourse <ul><li>history of gender differences in fashion </li></ul><ul><li>central argument: gender replaced class as primary marker in clothing </li></ul><ul><li>200 yrs ago, fashion codes emphasized economic & social hierarchies </li></ul>
  7. 7. Great Masculine Renunciation <ul><li>15th – 17th c., ornate dress was class (not gender) prerogative – protected by law </li></ul><ul><li>mark of aristocratic power & privilege </li></ul>
  8. 8. 16 th century
  9. 9. 17 th century
  10. 10. 18 th century fashion
  11. 11. Industrial revolution <ul><li>rise of middle class </li></ul><ul><li>emphasis on industry </li></ul><ul><li>Previously, idleness as sign of wealth </li></ul><ul><li>19 th c., wealth ass. top-management work, factory ownership, etc </li></ul><ul><li>sartorial sobriety </li></ul>
  12. 12. 19 th century woman <ul><li>Leisure - her job became display of husband’s wealth thru clothing </li></ul><ul><li>psychic consequences of changes - implications for sexual diff </li></ul><ul><li>integrate M members across classes </li></ul>
  13. 13. Silverman’s Goal <ul><li>questioning of cultural/ideological assumptions about gender differences </li></ul><ul><li>fem subject associated with to-be-looked-at-ness </li></ul><ul><li>masc subject with scopophilia (pleasure in looking) </li></ul><ul><li>challenges this assumption </li></ul>
  14. 14. Looking/being looked at <ul><li>construction of subjectivity </li></ul><ul><li>mirror phase </li></ul><ul><li>Self recognition </li></ul><ul><li>distinction between self & other - fundamental to subjectivity or identity </li></ul><ul><li>play of looking & being looked at </li></ul>
  15. 15. Dress & adornment <ul><li>circuit of visual exchange </li></ul><ul><li>make human body culturally visible </li></ul><ul><li>influence upon bodies </li></ul><ul><li>conventional M dress effaced nearly everything - verticality - power </li></ul>
  16. 16. Feminine dress <ul><li>frequent & dramatic changes </li></ul><ul><li>shifting of erotic gravity - whole body sexualised </li></ul><ul><li>fashion constructs “new” F body each year </li></ul>
  17. 17. Dress as contestation <ul><li>clothing as subcultural flag or assertion </li></ul><ul><li>“ ironic distance” = masquerade </li></ul><ul><li>everyday clothing becomes costume </li></ul>
  18. 18. Sum up <ul><li>cultural capital </li></ul><ul><li>political </li></ul><ul><li>norms and domination </li></ul><ul><li>regulating force </li></ul><ul><li>commodity fetishism </li></ul><ul><li>Aesthetic criteria </li></ul><ul><li>self constitution, body image, and identity formation </li></ul><ul><li>social constructions </li></ul><ul><li>coding & decoding </li></ul><ul><li>identity formation and maintenance – all classes </li></ul>
  19. 19. Intermission
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