Chemical Peels PresentationPresentation Transcript
Dermavista Chemical Peels
What is Skin?
Largest organ of the body
3 layers: Epidermis, Dermis & Sub-dermis
Epidermis: Outer layer (layer you can actually see)
Dermis: Volumous second layer-25 times thicker than epidermis. It is made up of protein fibers which give the skin strength and elasticity.
Subdermis: (subskin or subcutaneous layer) This is our heat barrier, composed of adipose fat or sub cutis tissue. This creates a protective cushion that gives contour and smoothness to the body.
History of Chemical Peels
Widely used by Dermatologists for over 50 years
Some peels where discovered as far back as the 1800’s
Chemical Peels are still extremely important in skin care therapy today.
Better methods of application and “Designer Peels” Give the esthetician better control and improved results.
Chemical Peel Definition
A chemical peel solution applied to the skin to trigger a “Blistering” effect that loosens the targeted outer layer of skin to peel off in the affected area.
Underlying regenerated skin is smoother and less wrinkled than the older skin
Retexturize the skin
Minimize fine lines and wrinkles
Improve light scarring
Stimulate new skin growth
Stimulate collagen and elastin
Can correct sun damage
Reduce mild scaring
Reduction of wrinkles
Improve appearance of Stretch marks
Improve uneven texture
Cannot remove appearance of blood vessels on the skin
Cannot change pore diameter-pores can appear less pronounced
Cannot remove-get rid of scars-Keloidal scars
Chemical peels are not face lifts
pH Scale-Potential Hydrogen
Fitzpatrick Scale Tans easily Black skin Type VI Tans Mideastern-rarely sun sensitive Type V Rarely Burns-always tans Mediterranean Caucasian skin Type IV Sometimes burns-gradually tans Very common skin type-Fair Type III Burns Easily Fair skin-Light eyes-Light hair Type II Always burns Never tans Very fair-Blonde Light eyes-Red head-freckles Type I
Types of Chemical Peels
Salicylic Acid (BHA)
Jessner’s Peel ( A Combination of Salicylic acid, resorcinol and lactic acid mixed in alcohol)
TCA (Trichloracetic Acid)
Derived from sugar cane
Became popular in the 1990’s
Revolutionized skin treatments
Correct application is extremely important in order to achieve success.
14% Salicylic acid,14% Lactic acid,14% Resorcinol in alcohol base
14-14-14 keeps peel solution from separating
Jessners focus is exfoliation and digestion of debris
Good choice for patients with acne and melasma
Can be used with other peels to provide a deeper peel
Modified Jessner’s available
Salicylic Peel BHA
Hydroxybenzoic acid found in willow bark
Manufactured synthetically from sodium phenolate
Dissolves the top layer corneum cells
Varied strengths and combinations available
Reduces sebaceous follicle blockage
Good choice for Acne
Discovered in the 1800’s
Widely used peel
Can be used alone or in conjunction with Jessners and modified Jessners
Client will experience a heat sensation
Redness can occur
Disclamation can occur 5-7 days post peel
Trichloroacetic Acid TCA
Variety of strengths-15%, 25%, 35%
Non toxic, stable, easy to use
TCA penetrates to the papillary dermis or the upper reticular dermis when full frost is achieved
Frost occurs due to the chemical (TCA) coagulating the protein in the skin
Ingredient concentration determines level of peeling
Pre-peel-de fat can make a difference
Amount of chemical applied
Length of time chemical is left on the skin
Varying skin thickness can effect peel outcome
Superficial layers of the stratum corneum is removed
Smooth out rough area
Help self tanners go on more evenly
Promote product-Ingredient penetration
Can enhance collagen production
Reduce blotchy skin
Help reduce discoloration
Most common performed by aestheticians
Usually AHA or BHA or blends
Penetrates through the epidermis to the uppermost portion of the dermis
Do not pick at peeling skin
Peel goes into the dermis-reticular dermis
Not a simple procedure
Can cause cardiac arrest
Procedure done under general anesthesiasedative
Done in a surgical setting
2-3 weeks down time
Clean excess oils from skin
Client feels warming sensation
Stinging may occur
Reddening of the skin-Like sunburn
Skin Flakes off after 3-7 days
Blisters from deeper peels take 1-2 weeks to heal
Clients who are pregnant or lactating
Certain medical conditions-may require a doctors note
Extremely Couperose skin
Always needs to be signed before any chemical peels
Pre and Post peel care
Stay out of the sun
Dermavista Chemical Peels
We believe that our peels are the most innovative peels on the market today.
Our peels give the skin care specialist control, versatility and deliverable results.
Peels work synergistically
Peels can be layered and interchanged
Active ingredients and additives available to increase desired effect.
Preparation at home
The foundation of an effective Chemical Peel is Preparation.
Skin preparation should begin a few weeks heading up to the peel
The skin priming can be divided into two phases:
The Pre Treatment Phase consists of topical agents applied in the days or weeks preceding the peel. The goal of this Phase is Designed to thin the epidermal barrier; enhance uniform active agent penetration; accelerate healing and reduce post operative side-effects and complications, most importantly Post-inflammatory Hyper pigmentation
The Preparation Phase encompasses those steps that occur directly before and sometimes those leading into the peel itself
Steps before applying the peel
STEP 1 : Cleanse
STEP 2 : Degrease
STEP 3 : Scrub
STEP 4 : Analyze the skin and choose the appropriate peel for the skin type and the skin condition you want to treat.
The Peel Procedure
The application of an AHA peel ( Gel form) lasts less than 10-12 minutes and may cause temporary discomfort, redness, and irritation. These symptoms diminish as the skin becomes more accustomed to the chemical peel treatments. Due to the rapid penetration of BHA`s ( Solutions) , the peel will last about five minutes (or until a white mask forms). BHA peels are slightly less irritating than AHA and TCA peels due to the anti-inflammatory properties they possess. A TCA peel application should last less than 15 minutes and as with the AHA peel, a temporary stinging may result immediately after the peel is applied. Any immediate discomfort associated with a TCA peel typically subsides within a few minutes.
Temporary redness, flaking, and dry skin are typical following a chemical peel treatment. With an AHA peel treatment, the skin often looks and feels similar to sunburned skin. At first the skin turns red and dry, before flaking and peeling. A smoother, fresher skin results from the initial AHA peel as well as subsequent peels. It is very important to protect the skin following an AHA peel. A sunblock with adequate SPF protection should be used every day. SeSDERMA Sunyses has sunscreens with SPF 8, 15, and 35.
BHA peel, the skin will feel tight for several days after a BHA peel. After two to four days the skin will feel sunburned for another three days. People with darker skin have a slightly higher risk of scarring pigment changes as a result of beta hydroxy acids so increased caution must be used with these treatments.
ArgiPeel (pH 2.6)
Indications: Softest peel. An excellent peel for clients that are in the sun, and/or people with sensitive skin. Rejuvenates the skin, reduces wrinkles, and treats sun damaged skin. Improves the skin’s thickness and firmness and stimulates collagen synthesis. Closes pores and controls pigmentation and acne-prone skin.
ArgiPeel (pH 2.6)
Properties: Anti-inflammatory and moisturizing effects. Enhances the circulatory system (vasodilator) of the skin. Stimulates collagen production and increases elasticity. It is a large molecule so no irritation occurs on the skin. Excellent peel for sensitive skin or summertime. Recommended for Asian, dark, and sensitive skin, as well as skin that is sensitive to glycolic acid.
Properties: Lactic acid unblocks blackheads and helps reduce sebum. Has moisturizing, bleaching, anti-aging, and rejuvenating properties. Increases the thickness of the epidermal and dermal levels and it stimulates the growth of collagen and elastin fibers in the dermal layer of the skin. Over a period of time, the surface of the skin will look younger and smoother.
Composition : 90% lactic acid that is stabilized with DMAE , which is derived from salmon and sardines.
Mandelac Exfoliating Gel (pH 1.5)
Indications: Deep melasma , anti-aging , normal to sensitive skin, ethnic skin
Properties: Due to the molecular weight of this mandelic acid, less itching and irritations occur during application. It has properties typical of AHAs - it destroys intercellular contacts, stimulates collagen synthesis, and activates cellular regeneration. Has depigmenting and anti-fungal, anti-septic properties. Treats skin before and after peels because it prevents bacterial infections. Chemical action is similar to that of antibiotics.
Composition : 40% mandelic acid
Mandelac Alcohol Solution (pH 1.5)
Indications: minor to moderate acne, folliculitus, rosacea, and superficial melasma
Properties: Due to its molecular weight, less itching and irritations occur during application. Stimulates collagen synthesis and activates cellular regeneration. Anti-bacterial and anti-fungus properties. Controls and stabilizes minor to moderate acne. Controls and stabilizes sebum because it penetrates the skin through hair follicles. Prepares the skin before and after other peel treatments because it prevents gram bacterial infections. It has a chemical structure similar to several broad spectrum antibiotics.
Skin Types: Normal to sensitive
Composition 40% Mandelic Acid
Mandelac C Alcohol Solution (pH 1.0)
Indications: clients that are starting treatments with mandelic acid peels, Dull skin, Photo-aging, Acne
Properties: citric acid is added to the mandelic acid for its repairing properties that treat photo-aging. It regulates the pH of the skin, diminishes oxidative damage, and alleviates eritema cause by UV exposure. Excellent for sensitive skin. Results on the epidermis are immediate. Depigmenting, sebum regulating, antimicrobial, and antibacterial properties.
Composition: 30% citric acid and 20% mandelic acid
Properties: lactic acid is added to the mandelic acid. Has a clarifying effect on the skin color, which promotes a homogenous dispersion of melanin and exerts an anti-oxidant effect. Excellent peel for sensitive skin, with immediate effects on the epidermis. Depigmenting, sebum regulating, antimicrobial, and antibacterial properties
Composition: 40% mandelic acid and 20% lactic acid
SaliPeel Slow Action Ampoules (pH 1.0)
Properties: Equivalent to those of SaliPeel Alcohol Solution. You can apply this after microdermabrasion as a mask. Another option is that you can do a layer of solution, then microdermabrasion, followed by SaliPeel Ampoules and sun protection.
Indications: Rosacea , aging skin/wrinkles , pigmentations, psoriasis, folliculitis , and body peels. Excellent for skin that cannot tolerate the burning sensations of SaliPeel Alcohol Solution or SaliPeel Plus. Contains a special ingredient that penetrates deeper in the skin and prolongs the properties of the product.
Skin Types: Normal , thick, and resistant
Composition: 30% salicylic acid
SaliPeel Sds (pH 1.5)
Properties: Is Salicylic Acid in a gel form
Indications: Acne-prone skin as well as skin with seborrhea tendencies, aging skin, melasma, psoriasis and hyperkeratosis. Prepares the skin for other dermatological processes such as laser resurfacing, microdermabrasion, other peels, folliculitis, and cosmetic treatments of rosacea. Good for all skin types, especially patients with sensitive and/or dark skin (phototypes IV and V).
Composition: Alcohol Denat, Salicylic acid 30%, Polyethylenglycol, Polyquaternium-37, and Water
SaliPeel Alcohol Solution (pH 2.0)
Indications: Acne/acne scarring, rosacea, aging/wrinkles, pigmentations, psoriasis, folliculitis, and body peel.
Properties: 25% salicylic acid on hydro alcoholic vehicle. It is a beta hydroxy acid.
Salicylic acid enhances epidermal renewal of the skin. Helps clear spots, blackheads, and acne scars. Clears dark spots of melasma. Smoothes wrinkles. Some seborrheic kerasotes are minimized.
Skin Types: normal, thick, and resistant skin
SaliPeel Plus (pH 2.5)
Indications: Same indications as SaliPeel Alcohol Solution. Indicated for larger treatment areas.
Properties: Enhances the actions of salicylic acid. Bacteriostatic, soothing, and sebum regulator. Treats and improves the appearance of acne-prone skin. Improves blood circulation, tones veins, anti-oxidant, diminishes aging, and captures free radicals .
Indications: Treats symptoms related to aging skin – it reduces fine lines and wrinkles. It also prevents and treats losses in firmness as well as pigmentations. Hyper-keratolytic conditions such as acne.
Properties : Suitable for all skin types. Used for its healing properties. It is soft white clay that is recommended for dry and aging skin. It reduces the cohesion of corneocytes and prevents the corneous layer (hyperkeratosis) from thickening. Inside the pilosebaeous conducts there is a reduction in hyperkeratosis of the follicle, which helps secrete sebum and eliminate comedones.
Pyruvic acid : An alpha keto acid with three carbon atoms. It is a yellowish liquid with an unpleasant scent. Pyruvic acid is a medium-high strength acid, that is present in nature (honey, apples, fermented fruit, and vinegar). In solution it is converted to its corresponding AHA (lactic acid) resulting in antiseptic properties. It prevents thickening of the uppermost layer of the epidermis. It stimulates collagen, elastin, and dermal texture.
Skin Types: sensitive, dark, and patients that have never been treated with pyruvic acid.
Composition: 25% Pyruvic acid, 25% lactic acid
Pyruvic Peel P (pH 1.5)
Indications: Acne-prone skin, facial seborrhea, and melasma
Composition: 40% pyruvic acid, 5% lactic acid
Pyruvic Plus (pH 1.0 )
Indications: Photo aging, wrinkles, flaccidity, melasma, and hyper pigmentation
Composition: 50% Pyruvic acid, 5% lactic acid
MelasPeel K (pH 2.5)
Indication s: active acne, rosacea, seborrheic dermatitis, Patients who are sensitive to hydroquinone or prefer to maintain their skin tone.
Properties : MelasPeel K: contains a mix of alpha hydroxy acids, (lactic and citric acid) as well as depigmenting agents (kojic acid and hydroquinone) and salicylic acid.
Excellent at preparing the skin for laser resurfacing because it prevents hyper-pigmentations. It also helps eliminate flakes and scarring. The MelasPeel line reduces sebaceous activity, controls sebum, eliminates comedones, attenuates wrinkles, and provides smoother, softer skin.
Indications: Treats photo damage on arms and hands. Excellent for patients that smoke as well as patients with cystic acne. Contains a strong formula for deep peels
Properties: An aggressive peel. You will peel. Resorcinol is a smooth, yet powerful antibacterial agent that has exfoliating, keratolytic, antiseptic, and anti-itching properties. Also contains lactic, kojic, and salicylic acid.
Skin Types: I, II, and III. Formulated for thick, resistant skin
Indications: Photo-aging, scars, hyperpigmentations, melasma, and stretch marks
Properties: removes dead cells, stimulates cellular renewal and protein synthesis, and increases the natural moisturizing factor of the skin.
Composition: 15% lactic acid, 4% retinol, 1% retinyl propionate and active enhancers
Ph 3.0 ampoule 10% ASCORBYL, 2-glucoside (vitamin C)
Resorpeel (pH 2.5)
Indications: Acne and melasma
Properties: resorcinol is a smooth, yet powerful anti-bacterial agent. Helps control certain elements, especially Propionibacterium acne. It has exfoliating, keratolytic, antiseptic, and astringent properties.