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The Daily - Sunday

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  • 1. L O N D ON FA S H I O N W E E KLONDONFASHION REPORTING FROM FASHION’S FRONT LINEWEEK 2011 Got a story? Email newsdesk@lfwdaily.com18-23 FEBRUARY VIEW THE DAILY ONLINE: www.lfwdaily.comPRINCIPAL SPONSORISSUE N O 1, LONDON FASHION WEEK AUTUMN/WINTER 2011 IN ASSOCIATION WITH SUNDAY 20 FEBRUARY 2011THE FASHION MOMENT Kaleidoscopic creations backstage at the Louise Gray A/W 11 show yesterday. Photography by Anna BauerLife of the partyREPORT BY JULIA ROBSON “Matt and metallic work together,” coats woven through with stripes Cross dressing comes out of the closet REPORT BY DAVID HAYES very honest,” says Sibling’s Cozette Thoughtful shopper NOTED BY LINDA GRANTSpots. Stripes. Checks. Sometimes she said, explaining the 3D-effect and chequerboard silk dévoré dresses. “We’ve always had women asking McCreery. “In fact, it was almost When Ken Clarke told The Dailysimple things work best. In a gold-foil inverted spots punched From the dotty make-up inspired for versions of the men’s collection,” something we wished to avoid. Telegraph that the middle classesseason when fabrics do the talking, onto hairy mohair plaid. by Japanese conceptual artist Yayoi said JW Anderson after his first solo We’ve been asked to sell the didn’t know what was going to hitLouise Gray’s textiles say it all. “I am obsessed by the Glasgow Kusama to the homage to Michael womenswear presentation (below mainline menswear collections to them when the cuts kicked in, some“Celebration!” said Lulu Kennedy, Girls, a group of women artists who Alig’s Club Kids in Nasir Mazhar’s right). “It was a huge undertaking to women from the beginning, but have might have wondered what theysounding every inch the proud did everything from embroidery to balloon headpieces (Mazhar creates put on two shows this season, but resisted, as we didn’t want to run were going to wear. The answer ismentor, post-show (Gray’s career painting and furniture making. They hats for Lady Gaga), the overall effect I just felt I had to go for it. I found before we could walk.” Daks, a collection surely designedkicked off with Fashion East). were amazing. Empowering. Fearless.” was gloriously arty, not art student. the process of designing for women Perhaps they shouldn’t worry, if for those winter days when we can’t “This time I took the things I loved So, it seems, is Gray, who “She’s evolved,” said buying exactly the same as for men. The the reaction to Anderson’s first solo afford to turn on the central heating[ie, colour] and played with layering,” threaded Day-Glo Sellotape paper consultant Yasmin Sewell. “She’s collection was all about juxtaposing women’s show is anything to go by. and must warm up by taking thesaid the 28-year-old designer from chains through shorts, and slung picked up on the tartan-and-polka- different fabrics, grouping different “It was awesome!” shouted an Labrador for a walk in the rain.Fraserburgh, Aberdeenshire, who parachute harnesses onto tops. dot trend. Break that collection things and bashing it all together. excited Yasmin Sewell after the show. The heritage checks, the two-added gold Lurex and Stewart tartan Ideas were never-ending. There down into pieces and it’s incredibly It was inspired by my grandma, tone tunic-length English knits into her eye-popping mix yesterday. were gold whistle earrings, panelled wearable.” And sellable. who used to wear her old fur coats Photography by Shaniqwa Jarvis navy and chocolate, the leatherFaster and faster fashion puts with track pants: the ‘so right it’s box-pleated skirts, the suede duffel wrong’ approach.” coat, the patent-leather frame Those “juxtapositions” included handbags and the Cuban-heeledthe run into runway paisley prints, panels of pleats, classic suiting, mohair knits, splices of Mongolian lambswool and shoes of the type favoured by Mrs Thatcher might remind you of Sixties schoolteachers, or be a styleREPORT BY HEATH BROWN happy-snapping tweeters and quilted leather – all set off by steel- departure so startling it seemsAre you frustrated by inadequate RUMOUR HAS IT bloggers whose cameraphones toe men’s lace-ups: a look that had brand new. The most wowed-overcatwalk pictures taken on your THAT DESIGNERS won’t register moving images at a the street-inspired feel of Helmut look was the quilted maxi circlesmartphone? Is it all a blur when it certain speed. Apparently, even Lang in his heyday. skirt in Daks check. Never has acomes to reviewing your last show? ARE ASKING iPhones and BlackBerrys have Thanks to the success of the collection been so in tune withThen take heart from the fact that it MODELS TO WALK trouble with balancing sharp images men’s day at London Fashion Week, the moment, a revival of Middlemay not be down to a lack of in such dark venues, and the quicker Anderson is part of a growing England in hard-up times, throughtechnical skill on your part. FASTER, IN A BID the show, the worse the photo. number of menswear designers the eyes of an Italian designer Rumour has it, from models TO CONTROL WHO But struggling designers beware. crossing the gender divide this (Filippo Scuffi) for whom Englishbackstage, that paranoid designers If you crave more coverage across season, with Sibling, James Long frumpy can suddenly seem chic.are asking girls to walk just that little PHOTOGRAPHS the blog’n’Twittersphere, then here and Cassette Playa all running upbit faster, in a bid to control who THEIR NEW are two key tips: slow down the pace a little something for the girls. We Had It So Good byphotographs their new collections. and light up the lights, or your “It wasn’t really a conscious Linda Grant (Virago) is outThe idea is to scupper those COLLECTIONS collection will never get seen. decision on our part, if we are being now. Visit lindagrant.co.uk
  • 2. 2 NE WS LONDON FASHION WEEK THE DAILY Sunday 20 February 2011 LFW THE DAILY CREDITS LIVE CATWALK ILLUSTRATION AT DAKS By Julie Verhoeven THE DAILY SHOP Editor It may be A/W on the catwalks, CAT CALLENDER but it’s just turned S/S in store. Deputy Editor & Chief Sub Editor Here’s our pick of the pack. MARION JONES Compiled by VICTORIA BAIN , Art Director & Designer BIANCA WENDT Managing Editor JANE MONEY Deputy Chief Sub Editor FIONA RUSSELL SUNGLASSES, £12 Sub Editors Asos (asos.com) MICHELLE MARGHERITA, KIRSTY HISLOP, ROBIN WILKS Designers CATHERINE NIPPE, EMMA WILLIAMS, THOMAS ELLIOTT Reporters DAVID HAYES, JULIA ROBSON, HEATH BROWN, MARION HUME, SUSANNA LAU Beauty Correspondents ANNABEL MEGGESON, JESS HOGAN Guest Contributors LINDA GRANT, EMMA LOFSTROM, T-SHIRT, £55 PHILIPPA WILLIAMS Ann-Sofie Back for Topshop Staff Photographers (topshop.com) ANNA BAUER, MARCUS DAWES, SHANIQWA JARVIS Distribution Manager FRAN WEBER-NEWTH Production Manager CAROLYN MOTT Blog Reporter EMILY FLEURIOT Blog Commissioning Editor “CLIPPER” HOLDALL, £189 YASMIN COKE Mulberry (mulberry.com) Editorial Assistants ALISON POTTER, BROOKE RUTHERFORD Runners AMY MALONEY, GIVERNEY EDWARDS Website Designer WOLFRAM WIEDNER BFC Marketing Manager CLARA MERCER Printed by THE GUARDIAN PRINT CENTRE BRACELET, £12 Published by Red Herring at Debenhams JENNY DYSON & CAT CALLENDER (debenhams.com) AT JENNY & THE CAT LTD Thanks to THE BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL SOMERSET HOUSE H&M FOR THE STYLISH SUPPORT M&S FOR THE FASHIONABLE FOOD MERCEDES-BENZ FOR THE WIT-WOO WHEELS For advertising enquiries, email cat@lfwdaily.com Fashion means business Rock BESPOKE FEATURE REPORT BY JULIA ROBSON flying the flag in Mulberry. “They’re STAR British fashion is having a “eureka” wrong – it’s one of our most moment, waking up to ways to important industries, full stop.” harness the endless talent and (True, last year, British fashion DRESS, £65 creativity it’s famous for. What’s to contributed £21 billion to UK PLC.) Monsoon Fusion (0844 811 0068) stop venture capitalists (remember Educating designers in business TODD LYNN has one of the most respected them?) pitching up in London and is the point of initiatives such as the fashion signatures in London. The tailoring eyeing up a young fashion brand? BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund. Tillman so sharp it could slice through ice; the androgyny While creativity is paramount, points out that the fund’s current that invites a swagger; the sensibility that is emerging designers are realising the recipient, Christopher Kane, won on pure rock’n’roll. He also now has two seasons importance of building a business. his business plan as well as his of financial support and mentoring, courtesy of “People often say that fashion is one designs. “If we want more people to the BFC’S FASHION FORWARD award. of our most important creative invest in fashion, we have to instil a “The money’s always useful, but there is also industries,” said BFC ambassador sound business sense in our designers.” mentoring that will really help,” says Lynn of the Samantha Cameron (below with Coutts & Co-sponsored package supported by the BFC Chairman Harold Tillman), Photography by Marcus Dawes SHORTS, £115 London Development Agency. “It’s such a creative, Jaeger London (0845 051 0063) amazing journey to do this, but in reality if you don’t have a business sense it won’t get you so far.” It is this issue that Fashion Forward seeks to address, and Canadian Lynn knows well how such success confounded many of London’s designers for years. Coutts has a long tradition of supporting creative entrepreneurs, and 2011 is its second year sponsoring Fashion Forward. Holding out a hand to Lynn is perfectly timed. Here is a label with a clear developing vision, FAN, £2.50 exquisite execution and stealth wearability. V&A (vandashop.com) “Women who like fashion don’t feel the need to conform,” says Lynn. “These are people I know and work with. My clothes are fierce, but protective, too.” Cue jackets of butter-soft leather armour, zipped dresses that reveal the silhouette but not the skin, wool trousers that declare any wearer tall and slim, cutting-edge clothes designed “to look good on all people, not just models”. And tomorrow, it’s Lynn’s A/W 11 show. It’s all in the detail. “All the elements are there,” he says. “It’s what I’m adding: the Enlightenment, a bit of colour. And it’s winter, it’s leather and fur – fur Four seasons in one day that’s been farmed properly. I really care about that.” REPORT BY HEATH BROWN nautical-but-nice with precise navy- And, of course, there’s rock’n’roll. “I can sit Global warming has hit the catwalks and-white outfits that were more on my own in the studio, listening to music, and of London, as Spring/Summer Cowes Week than Bonfire Night, I can escape,” says Lynn. “I can see things.” staples creep into collections for and Caroline Charles decided a day MAXI SKIRT, £95 A/W 11. Soft billowing silks, bare at the races would be far more Whistles (whistles.co.uk) Todd Lynn is showing tomorrow at 3pm in WC2 shoulder lines, hot tribal looks inspiring than a cosy Christmas. and fresh nautical references – it Daisy-print red chiffon at Betty looks like designers are predicting Jackson, halternecks and hot pants a milder spell. at Aminaka Wilmont, and holiday- Sass & Bide ignored the snows white palazzo pants with silky prints of late and transported us to at Maria Grachvogel all emphasised sunnier climes. Ikat prints from the fact that designers will not be Africa, Balinese references and hot dictated to by the weather. It’s a case Mediterranean colours are more of designing a wardrobe for all than enough to keep us warm. seasons, and creating investment “ROBERTA” WEDGES, £218 Daks’ new collection went a little buys for any time of the year. Anthropologie (anthropologie.co.uk)
  • 3. 4 NE WS www.lfwdaily.com DESIGNER PROFILE 5 LONDON FASHION WEEK THE DAILY Sunday 20 February 2011 Catwalk highlights Report by DOLLY JONES , Editor, vogue.com THE Photography by catwalking.com BEAUTY SPOT CHARLES ANASTASE KINDER AGGUGINI ISSA HOUSE OF HOLLANDThe only way is haute The “up” do to swing Imagine the fashion chaos that would ensue if Coco She’s in a celebratory mood, and no one could begrudge “I started with heritage fabrics and then had fun with Charles Anastase played us in (out of the pouring rain) Chanel married Sid Vicious – Kinder Aggugini’s latest Daniella Helayel her dance along to Kool & the Gang, granny pastimes – bingo, crochet and keeping budgies,” to The Doors’ Riders on the Storm, and then let Brigitte collection was inspired by this notion and, he said, it’s flanked by her star models Yasmin Le Bon and Andrea said Henry Holland by way of explanation. “Then we Fontaine’s Il Pleut take over. “My collection began withREPORT BY ANNABEL MEGGESON sculpted eyes and strong, carefully finished with large black bows at the REPORT BY JESSICA HOGAN works in all manner of ways – sporty, perfectly embodied by the legendary art collector Peggy Dellal. Despite the disappointment of no future Princess added pearls – our girl is too young for a pearl necklace, memories of weather like this,” he said. “Being broughtIf you thought London was all about crafted lips. At Danielle Scutt ends “to add grandeur”. There was plenty of horsing around chic, waved…” Guggenheim: “Her father died on the Titanic and she Catherine in the audience, it was easy to empathise with so we put them on her dress and made it sexy.” Which it up in France around castles in dark, rainy countryside.grunge, think again. This season, (above), make-up artist Hiromi Meanwhile, last season’s trend at the shows in New York, with Malcolm Edwards took the look inherited millions of dollars at 21 – the perfect age to Issa’s exuberance – made all the better by Stephen was: fine tweed mini dresses had pearls running over each It’s about a young Lolita who just gets naughtier, but wedesigners stepped up to create called her look “unashamedly sleek for contouring, which was seen ponytails the preferred hairstyles at to even greater heights – literally – inherit money in New York. You could do anything you Jones’s felt berets featuring stiff peaked curls or bulging shoulder that looked like they might roll off at any try to restrain her a bit.” This season his muse hasbeautiful clothes worthy of, well, and chic”, with the sculpted, smoky everywhere, from Céline in New Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs and at Kinder Aggugini (right), where wanted: drink, buy a gun – this woman would have done fur rims; Manolo Blahnik shoes that perfectly matched second. Despite the budget connotations of crochet and escaped the nursery in a fit of early teenage rebellion andWorth – the godfather of couture eye relying on precise application York to Versace in Milan, was taken Proenza Schouler. And this week, high-on-the-head ponytails were both.” Long black dresses, one split dangerously high at the tights and skater-skirted jersey above; and giant, bingo, House of Holland has never looked more luxe. dashed (as fast as she can in platform riding boots) to thewho, despite living most of his adult and her deep-red lip unusually strong. to new architectural heights. Of her the style is taking off over on this stretched into a cartoon-like, softly the front, gained shapely curves with crystal embroidery; bouncing ponytails. The dresses were just what we Holland’s enthusiasm for the job was apparent in bingo stables. His signature princess coats were worn overlife in Paris, was, in fact, English (for Then there was the hair. Against diagonally placed highlights and side of the pond. pointed silhouette with gentle curls. VIVE ART-emblazoned T-shirts tucked into cream expected: big feather prints or irregular dots and swirls, ball-printed tights and crochet scarves wrapped around matching trousers in rich autumnal tweeds and velvets,more on A/W couture, see page 9). the rails of aristocratic clothes at painstaking white-powder glazes At Jaeger London, veteran stylist Over at Louise Gray, Luke wool tulip skirts (with contrasting stitching) and giant mismatched above and below on well-cut dresses that chiffon dresses of an identical print, but there were some while tiny silk dresses and Peter Pan-collared jumpsuitsAnd now there’s the make-up to Corrie Nielsen, stylist Sergio Renis for Betty Jackson, make-up artist Sam McKnight gave his pretty pony Hersheson went 1990s hip-hop, mustard-yellow parkas or laser-cut jackets made this a would flatter anyone – not groundbreaking but all the seriously wearable, super-cool clothes – crochet-printed, clung to the body from sheer jewelled uppers – this littlematch. With that Englishness still created a ‘haute-couture effect’ by Sam Bryant said, “The indie chick is a military twist and told us exactly juxtaposing a square-top afro with mix of rock meets art, boy meets girl – all topped by more attractive, to some, for their lack of risk. And there Swarovski-encrusted chiffon that would dazzle in the glare of girl wants to join, and ensnare, thepart of the equation, it’s a more securing moulded headpieces into still in there, but this season she’s why he loved the “simple” look: “It’s soft, tonged lengths. Catwalk hair chiffon-wrapped, transparent plastic Stephen Jones hats was one red frock coat that will surely do for a royal the paparazzi; tweed midi skirts that gave a glimpse of grown-ups. Button-backed cashmere dresses and sheerrefined, tailored look, injecting a bit models’ hair and crafting intricate, being played out in a more crafted, so versatile; both masculine and that couldn’t be easier to create: and grounded with glittering Mary-Janes. Having wedding guest. “I began with lots of references: South little lace slips, and fitted tweed trousers teamed with silk lamé cardigans eased a collection in which a potentiallyof atelier class into the mix. Elizabethan shapes. At PPQ, the considered way.” feminine – strong from the front and how will you do yours? worked with Galliano, Westwood and Versace, Aggugini America, nature, everything – but then it became a blouses printed with birdcages, a motif that recurred on heavy Seventies theme of brushed-out hair, tactile Backstage, the new spirit was humble plait was upgraded with soft from the back – and it’s an easy is no shrinking violet, and the subtlety of his lace and reworking of our greatest hits, a celebration of the best of softly sexy housecoats. Retro? Yes. Tongue-in-cheek? fabrics and flares was touched with medieval motifs toushered in with highly polished skin, placement in front of the ears and Photography by Anna Bauer quick fix that anyone can do. Plus, it Photography by Anna Bauer floral prints provided a  welcome delicacy. Issa,” said Helayel. “It’s a great time for us.” Of course. But high quality all the same. whip in even more historical drama. Susie styles it BESPOKE FEATURE BESPOKE FEATURE REPORT FROM THE EXHIBITION BY SUSANNA LAU I can die happy. I’ve had the with opportunity to wear the infamous TIFFANY & CO. cherry hat by Piers Atkinson that has adorned the head of the fabulous Anna Dello Russo. I may even prefer the hat in the inky shade of dark HOUSE OF blue. Might be a of family bias going on here, but I bit FASHION had to pick out this Elizabeth Lau (she’s my cousin!) velvet shirt dress that just needed a “cherry on the top”. Fiona Paxton is consistent with her jewellery, playing with chain formations that are always interesting. It might have been She set the high street alight when she introduced designer LADY OF THE HOUSE, STEPHANIE an overkill, but I did a Helena CHEN (LEFT); THE Bonham Carter and tried a bit of collaborations. Now Stephanie Chen is transforming NEW-STYLE STORES (ABOVE); CHEN’S mismatching with Tracey Neuls’s TN_29 lace-up heels. Carter isn’t House of Fraser. Prepare to be surprised S/S 11 HOUSE OF FRASER HERO the first, and I doubt she will be the PIECES (BELOW) last to don a pair of bi-colourway “My first job was in a florist’s on Saturdays. I did buttonholes, shoes, and I’ll certainly be giving the bouquets, the lot. And I realised I could do colour and form easily.” look a go once I take the plunge and Stephanie Chen, Executive Director of Womenswear and Accessories buy two pairs of shoes in different at House of Fraser, is musing on the creative inspiration that has led colours. her from dahlias to department-store guru. “And then there was my mum. Barely 20 years older than me and beautiful with her long red Piers Atkinson cherry hat, L2; hair and flares.” She turns her red tourmaline diamond ring by Solange Elizabeth Lau dress, L1; Fiona Azagury-Partridge (“The first piece I ever bought”). “You get a vibe.” Paxton necklace, L2; Tracey Neuls One year into the job, Chen’s mix of design flair and emotional TN_29 shoes, L2, all at reach is changing House of Fraser from brand behemoth to responsive the Exhibition, Embankment fashion authority. “We have 61 stores, so we’re big enough but small Galleries, Somerset House enough,” points out Chen. “My idea was to buy into a breadth of trends and brands, constantly renewing to keep it fresh and new. And it “ANGEL JACKSON IS A NEW LABEL FOR US THIS Photography by Shaniqwa Jarvis doesn’t stress suppliers, because we only need to order in hundreds SEASON. THE BAGS ARE ETHICALLY SOURCED Divine AND HAVE A SENSE OF IRONY AND FUN” not thousands.” She shrugs. “Now our mix is really different.” Satchel, £303, Angel Jackson different propositions, but really JW Anderson also made a salon- She has long been about pushing what a department store offers flew the flag for Topshop-sponsored show debut with a neatened-up – it was Chen who made the first designer/high-street collaborations innovation NEWGEN’s younger designers. version of his previous ideas about happen. Now by hoiking up the fashion stakes at House of Fraser, she Craig Lawrence was up first and put clothes that come with subcultural has new contemporary customers crossing the threshold. “I mean, now on an enjoyable salon show, complete undertones. Colour-blocked jumpers, you can buy Céline here. And we’re the biggest Mulberry distributor with a script reader describing the mixed paisley and irreverent in Europe!” Emerging designers seen at their end-of-year shows get REPORT BY SUSANNA LAU ins and outs of his beautiful knits – touches – such as furry beards on a look-in, too. “We can buy a bit of their work for local branches.” For me, Friday kicked off with circular shapes knitted in Kyototex chunky brogues and jumpers tied The stores are modernising with the mix: “We’ve had a shimmy up, a string of good presentations at and velvet yarns, sewn together to around the waist made into tidy cut- “DRESSES FORM THE but there’s more to come.” And with the house brands now headed up BACKBONE OF MY SUM- Vauxhall Fashion Scout: Eudon form slinky dresses and flared-out out skirts – all took Anderson’s by Biba, in an exclusive in-house relaunch that’s really working, those MER WARDROBE. THIS Choi, Tze Goh and Kirsty Ward skirts, which made for a sleeker womenswear to another level. strictly fashion customers are finding further reason to point their PIECE IS ALL ABOUT EASY from the Ones to Watch show, and approach from Lawrence. And Danielle Scutt made a weirdly shod feet towards Oxford Street. “Whatever your budget or SUMMERTIME ELEGANCE, “FOR DOWNTIME, LABEL LAB IS FANTASTIC. Krystof Stroznya, which eased me J JS Lee’s first-ever salon show banging return to London Fashion BUT THE BLOCK COLOUR THESE SHORTS WOULD LOOK GREAT WITH look, everyone wants fashion, and we have it covered along the scale,” GIVES IT A DIRECTIONAL A LEATHER JACKET THROWN ON TOP WHEN back into the London rhythm of was another refreshingly minimal/ Week at the My Beautiful Fashion says Chen. Whether you want a buttonhole or a bouquet, as it were. KICK” Dress, £80, Pied THE CLASSIC BRITISH SUMMER STRIKES” shows, post-New York. maximal feat, with her trompe l’oeil venue: I’m thankful that she Houseoffraser.co.uk a Terre Shorts, £40, Label Lab But it was yesterday that yielded relief effects featuring on beautiful has retained a unique voice in designs that made my heart thump. leather coats and capes, as well rejuvenating female power dressing. The Portico Rooms played host to as low-slung rucksacks which a trio of names that all showed very contrasted against the stark looks. Stylebubble.co.uk TIFFANY.CO.UK
  • 4. www.lfwdaily.com DESIGNER PROFILE 7 The A team Life’s a dog sometimes for Antonio Berardi – constantly dashing between London and Milan, where he runs his label with the aid of a crack team. But, however busy he is, Berardi will always find time to make a girl feel special Words by TAMSIN BL ANCHARD Photography by JONATHAN FR ANTINI y 1pm this afternoon, Antonio Berardi and his team will be at the end of the twice-yearly marathon of fittings that pre-empt his catwalk shows. For the past five days, the designer (pictured immediate right with his team) has worked from a temporary makeshift studio in Shoreditch, installing not only his close-knit team of designers and pattern cutters, but also the two skilled seamstresses from the atelier he uses for his thriving business of special orders, celebrity one-offs and wedding dresses. Based in Milan, Berardi brings his entire studio to London to literally unpick jackets and dresses at the seams and then remake them – he likes every outfit to look as though it were tailor-made for each model. “Even a girl who is doing many shows a day, when they come in and you fit something to them, they feel it’s for them and it makes them feel special. She gives 100 per cent, simply because you’ve taken the time. It’s not just, ‘You wear this and you wear that.’” This is typical of Berardi. It’s late January and the designer is talking to me by phone from the Milan studio, where he is working on the embroidery for his Autumn/Winter 2011 collection. Berardi is brimming with charm and respect for the people he works with, and it’s no surprise that people push the gondola out for him– they get things done, even if those things appear impossible, which they often do. “Every tailor or pattern cutter has his methods, but you have to challenge those methods or you end up never going forward,” says Berardi. “Sometimes you need a touch of madness and to try something they say will never work, but you end up with something more fabulous than you had imagined in the first place. If you don’t try, you’re never going to know if it works or not. I do push people. Everyone’s learning the process – I don’t know everything. I think people need to be stimulated.” The son of Sicilian immigrants, Antonio Berardi was born in Grantham on 21 December 1968, the years, he simply says, “She knows what works for For A/W 11, the collection is an evolution of a birthday he shares with his long-term creative her and she knows what she likes. I don’t think she’s “A JACKET IS THE REAL TEST a honed-down aesthetic that Berardi started in conspirator, Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou. They ever been told what to wear. It shows in what she does, the pre-collection – and the focus is on the jacket. began working together in 1995. Back then, he was which is extremely successful, and women relate to OF A DESIGNER. IF IT LOOKS “A jacket is the real test of a designer,” he says. riding high on the cool crest of a London wave, after it because she knows what she is talking about.” AMAZING ON-HANGER, IT “If it looks amazing on-hanger, if it looks like it has his first collection, shown fresh from Central Saint Special orders and red-carpet dresses have a body in it, it can only look better once it’s on. Martins, saw Kylie Minogue and his bad-girl muse become an important part of Berardi’s business over A jacket is a staple.” The jacket in question is Michele Hicks modelling for him. Shoes by Manolo the years, to the extent that he now produces a “extremely” body-con and tailored – qualities Blahnik (who is working with Berardi again for separate – and often totally different – lookbook for following,” she says. “There is a particular glamour, Berardi excels at, using traditional horsehair tailoring A/W 11) added that final flourish. celebrity stylists. “Celebrities can choose anything polish and sophistication to his clothes. The woman techniques that are also applied to dresses and coats. The day before our conversation, Neophitou- they like and if they choose you, it gives you that who buys Berardi looks to him for beautifully finished, “Some jackets caress the body but they don’t close,” Apostolou had been “working her magic”, as Berardi wow factor – it means you are on somebody’s radar elegant pieces, which create the most stunning and he says of this season’s collection. Colours are in puts it, on the lookbook for the Pre-Fall collection. somewhere.” And because his is still a relatively small flattering lines when worn. Once on, they become a every shade of grey, milk and navy, with sharp accents Berardi confesses he tends to get blinded by a outfit, Berardi is able to make things on request at shortcut to sleek, modern style.” For Rogers, Berardi’s of orange and lime. And there are some interesting collection after working on it for so long, and Sophia short notice. “They might say, ‘Can you make it for stand-out S/S 11 piece is “a fabulous maxi-dress – a embellishments of masculine suiting and Shetland this event in this colour?’” confection of ballet-slipper-pink chiffon covered in knits, which have been given a feminine Berardi TEMPERLEY The A-list laps up his designs – his dresses have fabric flowers. I can’t wait for it to arrive.” twist using punching, embroidery and studding. LONDON IS been worn by the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow, Kate Berardi is a rare beast in the fashion world, in that “It’s not necessarily anything you’ve ever seen “SOMETIMES YOU NEED Beckinsale, Jessica Alba, Ashley Greene, Julianne his company is self-financed. This is liberating in before,” he says. “I don’t use embroidery just for A TOUCH OF MADNESS AND Moore and Beyoncé. “When you work with a client, terms of not having anyone to answer to, but it also the sake of it – it has to be new.” you want them to go away and say, ‘Oh my God, it’s an means the designer can never switch off. “It is kind Chances are, as you read this, the catwalk will be TO TRY SOMETHING THEY evening dress made for me!’ If you have the possibility of amazing,” he says of his situation. “There is a pride empty, all the hard work over: the pulling apart at the to make it the best it can possibly be, then why not? in that and a love for it because it’s yours, but it would seams, the re-sewing, the finishing and steaming, the Hopefully, everything fits perfectly; I scrutinise that also be nice for someone else one day to have that model dramas, the immaculate shoes. The clothes will edits it and picks out pieces that give it a new a lot.” So when Dannii Minogue, not long after giving headache and not just me!” be bagged up and on their way back to Milan. But there direction. “It’s never what I would expect and that’s birth to her son, Ethan, wore a black velvet zip-front Owning his company has allowed Berardi to keep won’t be much time for Berardi to catch his breath. what I love about the relationship – I can stop mid- dress on The X Factor in October, she felt totally a careful eye on his production needs – the collection “It’s a full-time job now,” he says. “It didn’t used to be.” sentence and she can carry on. We have this synergy. pulled in and confident. And recently, at the LA is rigorously considered in terms of what is needed for In the future, he hopes to move to London, but right At the same time, it’s nice when we can surprise each premiere of Love and Other Drugs, Anne Hathaway’s the catwalk, what is needed for the buyers, what the now work pulls him to Milan. “Living in London is a other. It’s never staid; it always feels like the first time. white lace-panel dress from Berardi’s Resort customer herself needs and wants, and also how the dream. I was spending five days a week in Italy – that’s Working with Sophia can only be described as the collection looked as if it had been made just for her. fabrics are used. “I’ve worked for companies where why I moved here. But as things get into place, I hope story of a marriage. The weird thing is, we are both With his celebrity clients, special orders and two they’ve bought 150 fabrics in endless colours and not to move back. It’s where I started. It’s home.” Sagittarians, both born on the same day. There’s a pre-collections a year, Berardi rarely stops. “Because used three-quarters of it,” he says. “There is no need. weird yin-and-yang thing about it.” the delivery is so early, the pre-collection is the thing We are frugal but in a good way. If you have to make Antonio Berardi is showing his A/W 11 collection YEARS OLD AND In 1999, Berardi designed Victoria Beckham’s right now, as people have constant stuff to change over do, you can still do amazing things with nothing. If today at 1pm in EC2. Stockists: Harrods, LOOKING PRETTIER wedding-party dress and a matching suit – all in in the stores,” he says. In fact, the Pre-Fall and Resort someone else is throwing money at you, it’s very easy Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, brownsfashion.com, THAN EVER purple – for David (and another for Brooklyn). collections now provide between 50 and 70 per cent of to waste their money. When you account for every matchesfashion.com, net-a-porter.com Victoria has been a long-term and loyal client ever the company’s overall revenue. Holli Rogers, Buying penny, it’s a more interesting way of working it out. since. When I suggest that Ms Beckham must have Director at net-a-porter.com, started buying Berardi There is no need to be wasteful. It’s about how you can Tamsin Blanchard is Style Director of the learned a few things from her fittings with him over for Pre-Fall 10. “His collection quickly gained a loyal achieve the best without spending money willy-nilly.” Telegraph Magazine BESPOKE FEATURE e, d can get you into. But while we’re her Fun ny what positions this Swan Lake tren ct of these , we know the ballet-shoe-ribbon effe channelling that inner Odette/Odile fect fashion spin. Cue ap daintiest of tights is giving legs the per plause for Pretty Po lly Pretty Dazzling tights, £8, facebook.com/prettypollyTEMPERLEYLONDON.COM
  • 5. 8 PORTFOLIO LONDON FASHION WEEK THE DAILY Sunday 20 February 2011 www.lfwdaily.com NEWS 9 24 hours in pictures The great continental drift REPORT BY DAVID HAYES presentation. “The hotel has the having an intimate talk-through for Fashion’s sister act Photography by ANNA BAUER Are some London designers in same net curtains as we had around his mega-brand here in the city he danger of developing a transatlantic the catwalk in New York, so we just called home for a few years. “It’s drawl? Dropping “cell phone” and had to show here,” she jokes. great for London that Tom has “sidewalk” into every other sentence Temperley London is back on decided to show here,” says Emily just for the sheer hell of it? With the catwalk schedule, too, after Sheffield, Deputy Editor of Vogue. RATNER’S HEIRLOOM GOLD many labels planting one foot in putting in time stateside, and “It really confirms London’s place as Brassy is the new bling New York and one foot in London, Mulberry has skipped the usual first an international fashion capital.” at Danielle Scutt it’s becoming a distinct possibility. showing in New York to focus on a Alexander Wang is popping over, “We are London designers and West End outing. “I think showing too – for a party in his honour – and WHITE ORCHID CORSAGE proudly British. Showing in New in just one place is a good thing,” even Anna Wintour has been A front-row gift at Kinder. York has been quite a success for us, says Mulberry’s Creative Director, singing London’s praises of late. In With care instructions. So chic but we still don’t want to lose that Emma Hill. “It certainly adds more fashion terms, at least, that “special connection with London,” glamour to the event.” relationship” seems as strong as ever. PRESCIENT SOUNDTRACKS says Preen designer Thea Bregazzi, That NY-LON thing is a two- Il Pleut playing at Charles Anastase at the label’s St Martins Lane hotel way street, of course. Tom Ford is See pics at lfwdaily.com while the rain fell outside BACKSTAGE AT SASS & BIDE That couture effect M&S REVIVING INFUSION Herbal tea with mint, fennel Il Bottaccio, SW1 REPORT BY CARYN FRANKLIN and cardamom. Because we’re REPORT BY JULIA ROBSON bespoke than ready to wear, beefed had to raise the level… make it more Fashion, which negotiates ethical Friday, 4.45pm London Fashion Week is about frazzled already The trend for precious, luxe fabrics up by stack-platform thigh boots by exclusive,” he said. processes (thanks to Course Director many things, particularly the future. and long-forgotten handcrafted Natacha Marro. Kinder’s presentation yesterday, Dilys Williams). There is Future Aesthetic: runway LOUISE GRAY EARRINGS techniques, which wove its way Even Danielle Scutt’s lattice- inspired by wacky heiress Peggy It’s also happening during LFW. fashion rippling outwards; and With whistles. Check them out through the New York collections, effect cocktail-hour frocks and Guggenheim, featured hand- The Model Sanctuary, founded and Future Names: new designers in Asos come July has wound up in London. Louise Gray’s pop-art textiles, finished, hand-beaded and dip-dyed run by Erin O’Connor, is devoted to making waves in grand fashion Corrie Nielsen’s slim cashmere which soundly embodied the tailoring, the likes of which Primark models’ wellbeing. “Our mantra is houses; and now, Future Practice: jackets, with Walnut Whip-effect “London Look”, had a whiff of Paris could never emulate. And one fabric ‘leave your coats and looks at the shoulder detail, and pleated wool couture sensibilities about them. (cashmere!) was used throughout. ways of doing things in a more door’,” she says. “We encourage BAROMETER directional and enquiring way. day dresses infused influences from But Kinder Aggugini – with “I wanted to play with volume and, models to develop their sense of self It’s happening in education and THE WEATHER Forties and Fifties haute couture his signature hand-stitching and as this fabric is so expensive, those and individuality.” will inspire generations: the London Wet and cold. We could see (and, oddly, Elizabethan period individually Tipp-Ex-ed-in polka full shapes add another level of “Individuality” is the watchword College of Fashion hosts the first our breath at several shows. details that complement it). dots – truly nailed the new London exclusivity.” French couture mashed of All Walks Beyond the Catwalk. investigation between fashion and Not a good look Charles Anastase’s scaled-up couture look. “I was doing a range up with the Japanese breakaway The initiative, co-founded by science, courtesy of Helen Storey, little girls’ coats, crafted solely from for Macy’s recently and realised just movement of the Eighties. Weird, O’Connor (guess which model has and the first Centre of Sustainable CHIC -SNACK DEARTH the finest Scottish wools, were more how good the high street had got. I but it worked. found herself in the diplomatic No Topshop-venue show spotlight?), Debra Bourne and me, Hair shirts off the menu at Estethica = no tasty treats “EMOTIONALLY promotes a diverse range of beauty. “Emotionally considerate practice” CONSIDERATE is the latest buzzword. Include it in WATERMARKS ON SHOES REPORT BY MARION HUME Have we mentioned the rain? It was as buzzy as a bee at the BFC’s shift are favourites). “There used to from the old eco cliché, From PRACTICE” IS THE your conversation daily for your own be a few lone voices; now we’re so Somewhere’s racy dresses were made fashion-forward positioning, then DURAN DURAN eco-fashion Estethica Brunch many,” says Ratty, who has put the of repurposed Speedos, while the LATEST BUZZWORD. watch other fashion types twitter it. Here and there on the catwalks. yesterday, which could have had something to do with the home- sustainable vibe in the UK’s hive Fairtrade Collective’s scarf project, INCLUDE IT IN The empowerment of women Oh, come on since Estethica, sponsored by with designers including Marios has to be at the heart of fashion baked muffins. As for the real buzz, Monsoon, began in 2006, and Schwab, Holly Fulton and Julie CONVERSATION today. Here, London leads the way, RUNWAY SHOES it seems the ethical segment of the Poor show on the foot-candy fashion industry is the one to watch. whose collaboration with Liberty Verhoeven, brought strong ideas to DAILY FOR YOUR as the recent All Walks debate at the front. So far (she uses its lovely leftover fabric) is these fairly traded squares of cotton. National Portrait Gallery’s “Is If Sarah Ratty, designer and to be sold in Whistles. Up-cycling, With NEWGENs scarf installation OWN FASHION- fashion the lens through which we founder of green fashion company Ciel, and board member of the recycling, organic, ethically made fluttering down the historic Stamp FORWARD evaluate identity?” demonstrated. and local is a lot to expect from stairwell at Somerset House, the The future is what London does best. Ethical Fashion Forum, is the a pair of silk crêpe de Chine briefs, question of what’s the accessory of POSITIONING, THEN Queen Bee of eco fashion, her label is the honeypot (we get interrupted but you’ll find those at Ciel, too. the season has been answered, too. WATCH OTHERS Photography by Marcus Dawes Estethica’s message is clear: “no CATWALKING AT twice in five minutes by people hair shirts here” (but plenty of snug See pics at lfwdaily.com TWITTER IT Visit allwalks.org; KINDER AGGUGINI wanting to buy; the Paddington wool from The North Circular). Far erinsmodelsanctuary.com Bear duffel and cute Cossack-style Il Bottaccio, SW1 Saturday, 12pm BESPOKE FEATURE H&M EDITOR’S CHOICE ARADIA CROCKETT STYLIST Wears jumpsuit, £29.99, by H&M It’s so not me, this jumpsuit. I’m usually more boyish, more Alexa – I love that dressed-down look. But it just jumped out at me. I nearly chose a camel calf-length skirt and cropped jumper. It was far more my style – “Grandma”, as my boyfriend would say. I like the S/S 11 mid-calf look, but it didn’t make me feel too sexy. I suppose that’s where the jumpsuit comes in. It’s flattering and cool. If I were dressing it down, I’d add a mannish jumper. I’ve put it with my Cos wedges here for a night-out look. I’m obsessed with gold jewellery – Laura Lee is my INTERVIEW YASMIN COKE. HAIR AND MAKE-UP KAREN ALDER AT K MANAGEMENT. SITTINGS EDITOR JENNY DYSON favourite. I’m wearing her rose-gold star pendant, plus “Love” and “Foxy” rings by Zoe & Morgan. I sleep in them, do yoga in them – the lot. They’ll go with the jumpsuit. They’ll have to. Gold aside, I’m low maintenance and not very girly. My hair looks better when I do nothing to it and leave it for days. I like my clothes feminine but minimal – Chloé, Céline and Stella McCartney are perfect for me. I never plan what I’m wearing. I get up in the dark when my boyfriend is still in bed and I forage around to find an outfit that makes sense. I have a pure aesthetic, both for myself and for clients, such as The Guardian Weekend. I’m intuitive. My grandma had an amazing wardrobe and that’s what got me interested. When I started going out with friends at 14, I put everyone’s outfit together. It just grew into a career. H&M is perfect for my approach. It’s cool and inexpensive. It’s so on trend for S/S 11 you won’t get me out of there. I find it hard to get anything on the high street, but I could have chosen 15 outfits in H&M. I’ve been shopping there since I was 16 – a country girl in London with no real idea of fashion. BACKSTAGE AT At H&M I could buy lots of cool clothes for not much money. JONATHAN SAUNDERS I still can. I have an A/W 10 camel coat and people say, Two Kingdom Street, W2 “Chloé?” I say, “H&M, 40 quid.” It’s my number-one buy. Saturday, 7.15pm Clothes available from H&M. Stockists 020 7323 2211 ARADIA CROCKETT, PHOTOGRAPHED AT H&M HQ, LONDON, BY MARCUS DAWES
  • 6. 10 NEWS LONDON FASHION WEEK THE DAILY Sunday 20 February 2011 www.lfwdaily.com PEOPLE 11 PeopleSOMERSET HOUSE: FREEZE BY STEPHEN BEADLES, COURTESY OF SONY WORLD PHOTOGRAPHY AWARDS SNAP! GOT A MILLION-DOLLAR STYLE QUESTION? PHONE DIARY DIRECTORY, YOUR FASHION FRIEND One of the world’s most prestigious photography festivals is coming “Where do most LFW people to LFW’s favourite location. The World Photography Festival and live and work?” Photography by MARCUS DAWES Exhibition (previously held in Cannes) showcases new work in all genres from fashion to documentary, N1 plus a roll call of practitioners from emerging talents to esteemed names. Highlights include talks and workshops from modern masters and the exhibition of winning images of the Sony World Photography Awards. And all under the photogenic roof of one SOMERSET HOUSE . Festival from 26 April to 1 May throughout Somerset House; TOP OF THE CLASS Exhibition from 26 April to 22 May DIARY DIRECTORY Feeling frayed at the seams? Then join Anna at the Embankment Galleries. We know where you live. Smit, winner of the RCA/M&S comp, at the Visit somersethouse.org.uk 20,000 fashion contacts from model agencies to magazine eds. rails of M&S LIMITED COLLECTION, to see the T 020 7724 7770 E info@diaryd.com W diarydirectory.com postgrad’s follow-on range. Full marks! Collection from £35, in store from Designer notes September; marksandspencer.com IT’S A WRAP LF W THE DAILY Not content to rest on her LFW laurels as The Daily’s artist in residence, fashion’s first lady of illustration, JULIE VERHOEVEN , is one of a group of Used up all your inspiration on Fashion Week? designers to have created a Fairtrade Super fly Pretty shy What a guy We must buy The Daily is on hand with enough cultural dos and cotton scarf for Asos. Exquisite, no? From 28 Feb at asos.com; see more dates to fuel your next few seasons at fairtradecollective.org.uk; find more Julie doings at julieverhoeven.com YOUR PERFECT FASHION DATE Doing anything on SAT, 26 FEB? Well, yes, you are; you’re hot-footing it down to H&M, 234 Regent Street, W1 from 2 to 6pm to take part in LONDON FASHION WEEK THE DAILY PRESENTS H&M’S VIOLETS FOR FASHION WEEK WORKSHOP! It’s your big chance to star in your own photo shoot – you’ll YOUR FAUX FURS Ah, spring blooms, delightful on the have your make-up done professionally and mantelpiece, even more so in a floral a top photographer from The Daily to snap martini cocktail at ONE ALDWYCH, LFW’s you in the latest H&M looks, all in our pop-up neighbourly hotel. Fancy another? They studio. There’ll be drinks, styling tips from The have dessert cocktails, too. Ours is a Daily team and the chance to WIN A S/S 11 Lemon Treat. Genius deserves support. H&M WARDROBE worth £500. Lobby Bar, One Aldwych, WC2; Visit facebook.com/hm Walking by Colour dye Saying hi My, oh my! K, ION BESPOKE FEATURE Follow that star OC SH K TS FA Are you a fashion lover in search of an original Spring/Summer 2011 wardrobe TIC IT’ from the latest labels? Or maybe you’re a fledgling designer dreaming of a platform for your work? Either K! way, BrandAlley’s new online fashion tyle LOC s community, Le Lab, is made for you. your whatever Every month this season, BrandAlley O’C e, will commission a roll call of the on tim hottest emerging designers to create a tren d and 130 summer piece exclusively for Le Lab. Be on l watches, £ Whether dress or blouse, trousers or se Carou trench, skirt or bag, it will add up to a complete and inspiring statement wardrobe. Subscribers can vote for their favourites, then commission an item from any of the winning talents. The possibilities are endless. One look might be a breath-of-fresh-air summer dress… Visit brandalley.co.uk/lelab FOLLIFOLLIE.CO.UK