L O N D ON FA S H I O N W E E KLONDONFASHION REPORTING FROM FASHION’S FRONT LINEWEEK 2011 Got a story? Email firstname.lastname@example.org FEBRUARY VIEW THE DAILY ONLINE: www.lfwdaily.comPRINCIPAL SPONSORISSUE N O 4, LONDON FASHION WEEK AUTUMN/ WINTER 2011 IN ASSOCIATION WITH WEDNESDAY 23 FEBRUARY 2011THE FASHION MOMENT A quiet moment backstage yesterday at the Mary Katrantzou A/W 11 catwalk show (see page 5 for catwalk review). Photography by Anna Bauer The biggest trend of them GrannyThe Chanel effect all? The no-trend trend knows bestREPORT BY HEATH BROWN who thinks hijacking such a style is REPORT BY JULIA ROBSON any age, anywhere. I welcome it. NOTED BY DAVID HAYES“A Chanel cardigan is all I’ve ever ultimately subversive. The memorial-like installation with Designers may not all be doing the You might have caught sight ofwanted to wear,” said Edward The Topshop-venue catwalk was its wilting ﬂowers at Meadham same story, but there’s still enough them out of the corner of yourMeadham, backstage at Meadham strewn with car-crash memorials Kirchho said it all: RIP trends. The to ﬁll pages of magazines, women’s eye, with their prim, buttoned-upKirchho . Design partner Benjamin tied to fallen fences, in remembrance days of judging a season by its wardrobes and stores.” layers, ﬁngerless gloves, long dressesKirchho is also a fan. “Her clothes of the duo’s past collection. But as identikit, box-ticking “looks” are Central Saint Martins’ Professor and sensible boots, and for a secondwere revolutionary,” he told us. “The soon as the the army of models came over. “I don’t give a s**t about Louise Wilson has the last word. perhaps thought a coach-load ofwhole look became the bourgeoisie’s marching out, a whole new mood trends,” rasped Benjamin Kirchho “Where is fashion heading? If OAPs had hit fashion week. Butuniform for a while, but now they was set. Cue lace beneath wool skirts post-show, which was yet another I knew that I’d be extremely rich if you look a little closer, thosejust want a piece of subculture.” and coats (in boyish Coco-esque that demanded to be viewed as a and very thin. The pressures on loveable-looking “grannies” turn With an aim to reclaim the true silhouettes). A classy collection that separate entity orbiting Planet young designers today are so out to be a whole lot younger.spirit of their fashion idol, the design was just that little bit more Fashion. “Trends are invented to intense, it’s a miracle they are still “For me it’s about anti-sexiness,duo hope to re-invent the Coco look Shoreditch than Sloane Square. make women feel bad about this driven and creative.” a backlash against the Wag look,”of old in a fresh London way. “It’s themselves, created solely for the said 24-year-old Fashion Junior-at-not about trends,” said Meadham, Photography by catwalking.com purpose of business,” he ranted. Photography by catwalking.com Large George Langford of the Last year, when global-trends emerging little-old-lady trend.Your handy at-a-glance round-up forecaster David Wolfe predicted a style “standstill”, it was barely reported. Now it appears to be true. “I’m a platinum blonde and don’t want to be obviously sexy, so wearing a grannyish dress makesREPORT BY HEATH BROWN Darks are always an A/W staple, “Trends are exhausted,” said designer the perfect contradiction.”So many ideas, so many trends and DARK COLOURS but this season they were sludgy in Christian Blanken, following a The trend has even takennot a glaringly obvious theme in tone, which contrasted with ﬂashes collection he explained, was “more doddery steps on the catwalk thissight. But hey, that’s London for you, ARE ALWAYS of electric colour and accents of of an attitude than one look”. week. “It was all about my granny’salways brimming with creativity. So AN A/W STAPLE, neon to uplift any outﬁt. Sportswear “I’d say currently fashion is favourite things,” said Henrywhat were the key looks this week? met haute in a new take on luxe, about maximal minimalism,” said Holland of his budgies, bingo and Fabrics were intended to jar with BUT THIS SEASON while other dress-down themes were fashion journalist Elizabeth crochet collection. Even Christopherone another: rich, shiny velvet THEY WERE given a makeover, with arts-and-crafts Saltzman. “London has always been Kane opened with crochet, thoughcombined with ﬁne gossamer techniques reworked with ﬁnesse. divided about trends. Look at the was quick to quash any thoughts ofchi on and heavy leather did not SLUDGY IN TONE If one overall feel can be found, many villages in this city, east “old lady” inspiration.look amiss worn with soft knits. It’s WITH FLASHES it’s reﬁnement. London has ﬁnally London being one town, one If really old is starting to lookall about mixed media – and sleeves grown up and realised wacky ideas country, even. My favourite shows really new just now, perhaps it’sin contrasting material, which OF ELECTRIC alone cannot a successful business of the week are Erdem, Mary because the over-60s rarely dresslooked like another garment was COLOUR AND make. True creativity reigns. Katrantzou and David Koma. Not that way any more – and as we allbeing worn beneath. Textured fur one has a similar thing going on and know, rarity in fashionland is alwaysnext to ﬁne felted wool? No problem. ACCENTS OF NEON See pics at lfwdaily.com yet all three would suit any person, a plus point.
2 NEWS LONDON FASHION WEEK THE DAILY Wednesday 23 February 2011 LFW THE DAILY CREDITS THE DAILY SHOP His ’n’ hers has never been such fun. Editor Compiled by VICTORIA BAIN, CAT CALLENDER Junior Style Editor, The Daily Telegraph Deputy Editor & Chief Sub Editor MARION JONES Art Director & Designer HIS BIANCA WENDT Managing Editor JANE MONEY Deputy Chief Sub Editor FIONA RUSSELL CUFFLINKS, £36 Sub Editors Brink (farfetch.com) MICHELLE MARGHERITA, KIRSTY HISLOP, ROBIN WILKS Designers CATHERINE NIPPE, EMMA WILLIAMS, JAKE DOW-SMITH Reporters DAVID HAYES, JULIA ROBSON, HEATH BROWN, MARION HUME, SUSANNA LAU Beauty Correspondents ANNABEL MEGGESON, JESS HOGAN Guest Contributors LINDA GRANT, EMMA LOFSTROM, PHILIPPA WILLIAMS Staff Photographers T-SHIRT, £40 ANNA BAUER, MARCUS DAWES, Bstore (asos.com) SHANIQWA JARVIS Distribution Manager FRAN WEBER-NEWTH Production Manager CAROLYN MOTT Blog Reporter EMILY FLEURIOT Blog Commissioning Editor YASMIN COKE Editorial Assistants ALISON POTTER, BROOKE RUTHERFORD Runners AMY MALONEY, GIVERNEY EDWARDS Website Designer WOLFRAM WIEDNER RUCKSACK, £32 BFC Marketing Manager Topman (topman.com) CLARA MERCER Printed by THE GUARDIAN PRINT CENTRE Published by JENNY DYSON & CAT CALLENDER AT JENNY & THE CAT LTD Thanks to THE BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL “FESTIVAL WALLABEE” SHOES, £75 SOMERSET HOUSE Clarks Originals Pop-‐Up Store H&M FOR THE STYLISH SUPPORT (0844 477 7744) M&S FOR THE FASHIONABLE FOOD MERCEDES-BENZ FOR THE WIT-WOO WHEELS LIVE CATWALK ILLUSTRATION AT MARY KATRANTZOU HERS For advertising enquiries, By Julie Verhoeven email email@example.com How not to make a fash prat CONGRATS TO CHRIS! of yourself via live stream REPORT BY MARION HUME nothing to those in Dubai or Taipei There is no such thing as who have logged on to shop the “fashionably late” in the world of show). Rule 2: Dress appropriately. SHOPPER, £140 live streaming. In ye olde days, If you are wearing an LED- Natthakur London the bigger the designer, the later the illuminated jacket, either disconnect (notonthehighstreet.com) show (Marc Jacobs was once two the power source or turn the thing hours late in New York). Today, inside out. Designers don’t want designers ﬂex their muscles by Christmas-tree sparkle distracting being bang on time. from their clothes. Rule 3: If in And so, some newly minted doubt as to how to behave, copy catwalk etiquette for the iPad era. Julia Restoin Roitfeld, who gets top Rule 1: Be there (that you are stuck marks for her immaculate front-row in tra c en route to Burberry means demeanour and her serious shoes. Hip to be dipped CARDIGAN, £29.90 REPORT BY JULIA ROBSON says Verhoeven, adding that her Mango (mango.com) Hoxton and Dalston are being transformation occurred (shock represented in the smarter environs horror!) not East but in Chelsea, at of London’s West End by means of go-to salon Real Hair, whose clients dip-dyed “crusty” hair. include Alexandra Shulman. Creative crusties sporting the Nura Khan, stylist at The Sunday BELT, £49 latest fashion prerequisite, a barnet Times Style, reveals her purple-dyed Toast (toast.co.uk) in dip-dyed shades of rinsed-out ends were tended by Dalston dip- pink, smudgy lilac or tattoo blue, dyer-to-the-stars and inventor of with dark roots – obviously – include the latest crazy colour hairdo, Alex designer Louise Gray, illustrator Brownsell. Colourist and session Julie Verhoeven, stylist Richard stylist Brownsell is co-founder of Sloan, PR guru Mandi Lennard and, Dalston salon, Bleach. Converts are of course, fashion students. known as “Bleachenders”. “John Vial dyed my hair pink/indigo about six months ago,” See pics at lfwdaily.com A case of the cobble wobbles REPORT BY EMILY FLEURIOT increasing popularity of London As London Fashion Week closes, shows, have made for sardine- style medics have issued a warning like front rows at catwalk shows, that endemic fashion ailments can causing thigh-chaﬁng numb pins, no longer be contained, with and teeth-grinding. TRENCH, £275 fashionistas advised to focus on Additional sta have been LFW The Daily salutes CHRISTOPHER KANE, mitigating the symptoms. drafted in to assist vertiginous heel Aquascutum (brandalley.co.uk) With catwalk venues favouring wearers a icted with Cobble Hoof, winner of the BFC / VOGUE DESIGNER ringside benches over chairs, there a seasonal disorder that strikes has been a marked increase in around the time of fashion week. FASHION FUND 2011 Dowager’s Hump, as the fash pack Symptoms range from the mild stoops to note the Autumn/Winter “cobble wobble” to the more serious 2011 collections. There are concerns twisted ankle, and are often that some are taking the trend for accompanied by inﬂamed toes. granny chic a little too literally. Those wearing sporting brogues SANDALS, £29.99 Crowded venues, due to the should be una ected. River Island (020 8991 4904)
4 NEWS LONDON FASHION WEEK THE DAILY Wednesday 23 February 2011 www.lfwdaily.com NEWS 5 Catwalk highlights Report by LINDA GRANT , Novelist; lindagrant.co.uk Photography by catwalking.com THE BEAUTY SPOT MARIOS SCHWAB MARY KATRANTZOU EMILIO DE LA MORENA SIMONE ROCHA Fashion’s fearlessness has passed across every known If you are on your third or fourth Mary Katrantzou As a woman of a certain age, my heart leaps when I see a For young designers, mash-up is not a state of mind butThe search for imperfection A good lashing frontier. Is there anything it won’t appropriate from the street? We are long used to bondage and fetish, and now… the pu a jacket, that garment beloved by people show, you might have forgotten the impact of seeing her for the ﬁrst time, as I did yesterday morning. Trends, wearable, sculptural, draped – none of the usual fashion sleeve. For years they have been out of fashion, as a generation of gym-toned triceps were shown o . Which is a shame, because the whole of fashion history has the state of how you live. There’s no longer such a thing as purity of form, we live in a world where everything is available simultaneously to be mixed. It’s no longer aREPORT BY ANNABEL MEGGESON applied layers of lipstick and lip wasn’t so precise. It’s di cult, REPORT BY JESSICA HOGAN mascara into the roots, while Lucia who say they never pay any attention to fashion. Marios words apply to an experience more like spending 15 been that of changing sleeve trends: the ﬂoor-sweeping matter of borrowing, copying or even a homage.Create a perfect look. Now undo it, liner, only to smudge it afterwards. because we’re trained to do things After two seasons on the back Pieroni coated “every single lash” Schwab had elements of all of them. His high-necked, intense minutes exposed to lavish beauty. Everything medieval trains you could hide a lapdog in; the leg-o’- Everything is equal – what you made, what someonebut just a little. That’s the latest “Normally, we’re polishing and perfectly,” she added. burner, deﬁned lashes have made a at Aquascutum for a voluminous, long-sleeved austere wool dresses, banded or sleeved in was on those fabrics: ﬂorals, goldﬁsh, lotus buds. These mutton sleeves of the Victorian era. Emilio de la else made. The e ect can sometimes be incoherence, ormood to emerge backstage this week. blending,” he said. “This time, we It was a similar story with hair storming comeback for Autumn/ fanned-out style (right). Amanda leather, discreet studs and outsize pearls, were the were dresses as Fabergé eggs – decorative three- Morena’s lean, normally body-con silhouette was it can show how things that don’t obviously belongIt was a counterpoint to the couture- wanted the make-up to have a looser backstage at Emilio de la Morena, Winter 2011. And about time, too. Wakeley’s make-up artist Sharon epitome of pared-down elegance, worn with wrist-length dimensional objects that stood away from the body in transformed into a modern-day version of Edwardian together can, in a new juxtaposition, say somethinge ect polish of the collections. Raw, feel. It’s easier, fresher and sexier.” as undone ponytails portrayed a At Julien Macdonald, make-up Dowsett actually let each girl apply gloves. There is a mood in fashion at the moment that peplums, cocoon-shapes or a skirt as an open vase dress using crochet, high-necked pin-tucked blouses original. Simone Rocha’s collection for Fashion Eastdeconstructed and imperfect were If you prefer, you could stop dishevelled romance that injected maestro James Kaliardos insisted, her mascara herself because, as she suits our times of economic uncertainty. It’s the exact delicately holding the abdomen. A sequined skirt was and knee-length pencil skirts. But the most exciting aims for the biggest mash-up of all, between masculinitythe watchwords of this approach, before you ﬁnish. “I was going to modernity to the Edwardian-inspired “No girl is complete without said, “you get more on that way.” opposite of vulnerability and fragility; it’s toughness and covered with roses, as if the contents of the room aspect of his look was his attention to sleeves. They and femininity, with mixed fabrics and surfaces, cablewith make-up artists and hair stylists apply the ﬁnishing touches during collection. Panos Papandrianos, mascara; eyes look naked without After all, she added, “We switch our strength. Schwab’s colours were strong (mulberry, acid had ﬂown to attach themselves to the body. Looking appeared quilted on a Lurex wool skirt suit, on dresses knit, pony skin, shearling, gingham and tulle. Severefaux-sabotaging done-up looks. the line-up,” said Florrie White, of hair stylist at the show, released it.” So how has it been updated? outﬁts seasonally and it’s important green) and his pu a jackets – also seen in New York last at great beauty on the catwalk, you inevitably have to with ﬂattering panelling, and the message was that of tailoring in black wool sat above tulle shorts and panels At Julien Macdonald, make-up the etched-on lips and imprecise, wisps of hair from the ponytail band Lower lashes are being left clean to do the same thing with your week and at Aquascutum later in the day – may be ask the perennial “wearable” question. But when a the modern adult. The e ect might have been too of teddy-bear faux fur and even fur sleeves. At a coupleartist James Kaliardos was inspired multicoloured dots she painted on for a mussed-up look. “We wanted while the top row is loaded to face. Now that lashes have made a a response to two very cold winters, or a need for woman walks into a room in a Mary Katrantzou dress, demure had it not been for the red satin high heels by of points she sent out dresses that looked as if they hadby supermodel Abbey Lee Kershaw, models’ faces at Meadham Kirchho to reference the clothes, while also the max for a modern e ect. At comeback, I have a whole wardrobe protection. The utilitarian nature of the pu a was she is making a present to everyone in that room, for Charlotte Olympia, which seemed to be a reference to been designed for Ms Flintstone. The shoes werewho came in to the test with half (above). “But then I realised I didn’t projecting an edge.” Holly Fulton, Andrew Gallimore of mascara.” Load up now. o set with chi on scarves, belts and even a belted pu a fashion is a gift not just to the wearer but the visual the underwear that might lie beneath – showing that Perspex-heeled brogues, both masculine and feminineher make-up scrubbed o from an want them to be perfect. I let the even used a small make-up brush coat with a skater skirt. Next, the fashion slanket. aesthetic of our surroundings. what you cover up can be the sexiest thing of all. at the same time, odd and interesting.earlier show. Kaliardos painstakingly models go and eat, so the make-up Photography by Anna Bauer to backcomb lashes and shove Photography by Anna Bauer Susie styles it BESPOKE FEATURE REPORT FROM THE EXHIBITION BY SUSANNA LAU Irwin & Jordan does the sort of with clothes that fashion people love to TIFFANY & CO. airily declare as “e ortless” and “easy”. What this dress is, though, is simple with something special radiating from the shimmery nude lamé front. I decided to mess it up a bit with some texture underneath, courtesy of Bebaroque’s ribbon- embroidered mesh dress – part of the Scottish label’s bodywear line, which is burgeoning alongside its well-known hosiery collection. Mawi keeps growing its jewellery range, and this rose-gold-plated cu encrusted with jewels is just the thing to add weight to the grey jersey sleeves of the Irwin & Jordan dress. I don’t need to tell anyone that Linda Farrow does good sunnies, and these snakeskin-e ect shades are just the ticket to add yet more texture to this outﬁt. Irwin & Jordan dress, L2 BFC/Elle Talent Launch Pad; Bebaroque dress, L1; Mawi cuff, Ground Floor; Linda Farrow sunglasses, Ground Floor, all at the Exhibition, Embankment Galleries, Somerset House. Shoes, Susanna’s own Photography by Shaniqwa Jarvis Dark stars, charms for people to spell out whatever they wish. Would “M F P collection, which had no particular theme but focused on superbly crafted shining bright ROX” hanging o my shirt lapel be coats, trousers, skirts and shirts in a an overkill? Nah… palette of cream and navy. There I also stopped by Alex Noble’s was a majestic ﬂuidity to pieces such debut presentation in the crypt as the long skirt split up the front, REPORT BY SUSANNA LAU at St-Martin-in-the-ﬁelds, where with volume created by two arched As the womenswear shows wind anatomy-inspired couture pieces peaks at the hips, like origami folds. down, it was time to take a breather were suspended on rails for all to It’s an assured collection from Tait, today by wandering round the eerily see clearly the intricate lacework who made his debut last season, and lit Freemasons Hall to see Maria and corsetry that the set/costume on the back of him winning the Francesca Pepe’s new collection, designer and artist has created. Dorchester Collection Fashion themed around amulets and sacred The best comes to those who Prize, we’re sure to see more of him. objects. Continuing to focus on wait, and Thomas Tait’s eagerly In the meantime, I’m already in statement accessories, she has come anticipated sophomore collection A/W 11, picturing myself wrapped up with studded headpieces and concluded a stellar week of up in one of his inky navy cashmere masks encrusted with crystals and LFW womenswear. Sponsored by coats – the perfect winter cocoon. pearls. I particularly love the rings NEWGEN this season, Tait chose a and safety pins hung with alphabet fairly low-key presentation for his Stylebubble.co.uk TIFFANY.CO.UK