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    Basic principlesofmakeupworkbook1 Basic principlesofmakeupworkbook1 Document Transcript

    • Basic Principles of Makeup - WORKBOOKHairstyling & Aesthetics – TXJ3E – Ms. NavasRev: May 2011Name: ________________________________________________
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 2B2: SKIN CARETHIS PAGE IS INTENTIONALLY BLANK
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 3B2: SKIN CARETable of ContentsThe Psychology of Makeup...........................................................................................................................6Activity: Face Shadowing .....................................................................................................................8Eyes...........................................................................................................................................................9Small eyes: ............................................................................................................................................9Prominent eyes:....................................................................................................................................9Round eyes:.........................................................................................................................................10Deep-set eyes:.....................................................................................................................................10Oriental eyes:......................................................................................................................................10Almond eyes: ......................................................................................................................................10Close-set eyes: ....................................................................................................................................10Wide-set eyes:.....................................................................................................................................10Makeup Tools..............................................................................................................................................12Makeup Tips - Advice and Articles..........................................................................................................15Foundation .............................................................................................................................................15Choosing foundation type...................................................................................................................15Types of Foundations..............................................................................................................................15HOW TO APPLY FOUNDATION................................................................................................................16HOW TO BUY FOUNDATION ...............................................................................................................16Choose Best Makeup Concealer .............................................................................................................18HOW TO APPLY CONCEALERS.................................................................................................................19Powder Makeup - Tips on how to apply powder................................................................................19How to Apply Blush.................................................................................................................................19Tips for applying blusher.....................................................................................................................20Powder Blush ......................................................................................................................................20Cream Blusher.....................................................................................................................................20
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 4B2: SKIN CAREColour Choice for Blusher .......................................................................................................................21Mascara Application and applying makeup................................................................................................21Mascara...................................................................................................................................................21How to Apply Mascara........................................................................................................................21Tips for applying eye mascara.............................................................................................................21Selection of eyeliner shades ...............................................................................................................22How to remove eye mascara ..................................................................................................................22Eyeliner.......................................................................................................................................................23Straight Eye Liner:..................................................................................................................................23How to Apply Eye shadow, Easy steps for Applying Eyeshadows and Application Tips.............................24How to Apply Eyeshadow .......................................................................................................................24Applying Eyeshadow Tip submitted by Pav ........................................................................................24Eye Shadow Kit and Colour Choice .....................................................................................................24Powder and Cream Eyeshadows.........................................................................................................25Stick Shadows and Liquid Eye Shadow ...............................................................................................25Lipstick Applying makeup tips - How to Apply Lipstick...............................................................................26How to Apply Lipstick..............................................................................................................................26Makeup kit essentials for applying lipstick properly ..........................................................................27Lipstick Tips.........................................................................................................................................27Makeup Tips................................................................................................................................................33General Guidelines......................................................................................................................................35SPECIAL OCCASION MAKEUP ..................................................................................................................35CORRECTIVE MAKEUP.............................................................................................................................35ANALYZING FEATURES AND FACE SHAPE ...............................................................................................35WARM AND COOL COLORS.....................................................................................................................35
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 5B2: SKIN CARESELECTING MAKEUP COLOR ...................................................................................................................36COLOR FOR EYES.....................................................................................................................................36CHEEK AND LIP COLOR............................................................................................................................36HAIR COLOR and EYE COLOR ..................................................................................................................36COLOR SELECTION STEPS........................................................................................................................36
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 6B2: SKIN CAREThe Psychology of MakeupThe Psychology of MakeupJake SuretteBeauty may only be skin deep, but your face plays a huge role in the first impression you make. Whatsyour kisser saying about you?Have you ever taken note of how people are reacting to your facewhen you are talking? Whether you are presenting in a businessmeeting or meeting your boyfriends family, everything thats onyour face is affecting everyone around you.Think about it: How do you react when looking at someones browsthat are shaped like sperm? Tacky. How do you judge that woman inpower who has a dark brown lip liner and a really light lipstick?Whore slept her way up.Poor things. In reality, they probably just havent updated theirmakeup routine in 20 (plus) years.They probably have no idea why theyre being judged so harshly and, perhaps, they are crying theirmascara off in their pillows at night.Case in point: Three years ago, I was working for a major fashion house that has a cosmetic subside. Ihad to do a makeup event for Women in Business within the business district of Toronto. I was genuinelyshocked to see how many women were emulating Dynastys "Alexis" alone. This was not just your run ofthe mill, Melanie-Griffith-in-Working Girl moment. No. These were women of power.That said, let us review the psychology of how makeup, today, should be worn.Business presentationEyes - Keep them soft. If you are doing a presentation - regardless of how large the group is - the focusmust be on your lip.Lips - Focus, focus, focus. If you arent a deep lip girl, make sure to - at the very least - have them linedand either use a medium toned lip colour or medium toned lip gloss. As your audience is listening to you,they will focus on your lip and get much more out of your presentation.Business audienceEyes - Now is the time to focus on your eyes. You want your presenter to know that you are takingeverything in, so highlight the lid, intensify the crease and pile on the mascara.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 7B2: SKIN CARELips - Soft. A light lip gloss or sheer lipstick is the key. Youre - hopefully - not talking out of turn in thispresentation; you certainly dont want a focus on your mouth.PleasureEyes - Its always great to do up your eyes a la classy porn star. A deep smoky eye or colourful eye isfun.Lips - Gloss them up.Eyes - A casual weekend family gathering should have your makeup kept crisp and clean. A soft, linedeye with a pop of sheer colour on the lid and natural mascara is your best bet.Lips - Again, keep them soft.This is a guideline. All in all, stay true to your personality when it comes to how you make yourself up.Just be open to changing it up.
    • Activity: Face ShadowingPlace the dark and light shadowing to give the illusion of the ideal face.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 9B2: SKIN CAREEyesEyes are the focal point of the face. This means thateye make-up mistakes are very noticeable, so be surethat your techniques and colors are the most flattering to the eye shape and color. The lighter iris,the lighter your touch should be when applying color. The trick is to draw the attention to theeyes, not the make-up.Use color, intensity, and texture to create illusions of depth and size, perhaps changing the eyeshape altogether! Again, remember the principle of light and dark.Light and shine….bring forth and “plump”Dark and matte shades….push back and “shrink”Small eyes:Lengthen them by applying a soft eye pencil to the outer third of the bottom lid extendingoutward. Use a short stroke to join this line to the upper lash line, and then smudge.Use light colors and iridescent shadows on the lid for an eye-opening effect.Highlight with a frosted shadow under the brow for evening sparkle.Curl the lashes before applying mascara to open eyes even more.Try lining the inside of the lower lid with a soft white pencil to really open them.Prominent eyes:Use a matte shadow on the lid and blend it into the crease.Apply a darker shade to the outer half of the lid, right over the first shade, and blend so that thegradation looks natural.Line the outer half of the eye with a soft eye pencil and smudge, drawing the line outward on bothtop and bottom.Highlight under the brow with a light or frosted shade.For a sultry look, line the inner rim of the eye with a soft eye pencil. Grey, navy, plum, and blackare excellent depending on the eye color, but there are many more.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 10B2: SKIN CARERound eyes:Elongate the eyes by concentrating thedeepest shades of the outer portion of thelid, extending them to a soft point.Lengthen the eyes even more by outlining the outer third of both top and bottom with a soft eyepencil, having the point meet beyond the outer corner of the eye. Smudge for a softer effect.Narrow the eyes by lining the inner rim with a soft eye pencil.Deep-set eyes:Use light or frosted shades on the lid.Apply a darker shade above the crease to recess this area.Try a little shadow or eye pencil on the outer half of the bottom lid to balance the depth of theeyes.Oriental eyes:Divide the area beneath the brow in half vertically.Use a lighter shade on the inner half, and a darker shade on the outer half, and blend together.Apply a highlighter under brown and blend.Almond eyes:Unless the eyes are too close or too far apart, you don’t have to worry about correctivetechniques.Choose colors that complement the iris and be sure brows are groomed so that shadowapplication is easier.If the eyes are either close-set or wide-set, consider the following:Close-set eyes:Keep all medium to dark colors on the outer half of the eye. This will draw attention outward andthe eyes will seem farther apart.Check the eyebrow section to see if the brows are properly shaped to maximize the spacebetween the eyes.Wide-set eyes:Extend the shadows to the inner corner of the eye and blend inward toward the bridge of thenose to minimize the space.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 11B2: SKIN CAREMake sure the brows are shaped correctly, also.EYEBROWS The eyebrow is the frame for the eye. The ideal shape can be drawn in three lines.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 12B2: SKIN CAREMakeup Tools1 Eyelash Curlers2 Angled brush - for lines and brows3 Natural foundation sponge4 Eyelash Comb - to separate lashes5 Liner brush - for eyeliner6 Foam blender - to soften pencil liner7 Brush blender - to soften eyeshadow8 Blush/contour brush9 Tweezers -for all unwanted hair!10 Dust-away brush - for under eyes11 Eyeshadow brush - on top eyelids12 Sharp scissors13 Latex sponge - cream foundation14 Lip brush - for even coverage15 Hair clips16 Foundation brush - for liquid foundation
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 13B2: SKIN CAREThis short list of the bestmakeup brushes meet thedaily makeup applicationneeds that most of us have,with maximum applicationefficiency and maximumresults . The best makeupbrushes qualities also includesoft but firm bristle hair, noloose hairs. they are in sizeproportion to the facial zone and task performed, and they have edges and shapesthat reflect their function. The best makeup brushes will last a long time when washedregularly with mild shampoo.1. Concealer Brush: Look for square head to tapered corners, ideal for blending(under eye -square; blemishes-tapered). Long handle, good weight, great forapplication precision.2. Foundation Brush: Look for fairly large wide, tapered flat head, ideal for liquid orcream foundations.3. Large Powder Brush: Look for large, full, rounded brush (dome shape), ideal forloose powder, can also be used for compacts with pressed powder, and loose beads.It can also be use to brush off excess powder.4. Blusher Brush: Look for full, large head with slight tapering (not as large aspowder brush) designed for even distribution and natural looking definition across thecheeks and cheekbone.5. Eyeshadow Brush: Look for square head, medium to large sized (just under 1/2an inch width), with slight taper at corners, flat, a bristle head that is firm but soft forthe delicate eye area. This brush is designed for sweeping color across eye lids andblending. By using its edge, it can be used for defining eyelid crease.6. Slanted Brush: Look for a small, narrow, angled, flat brush head with soft butfirm bristles. This brush is designed for application of fine lines such as close to yourlash line, blending and softening color edges. It also is used for applying powder tobrows.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 14B2: SKIN CARE7. Lip Brush: Look for a small, narrow, flat tapered edge brush. Designed forblending lip liner and lipstick applications. Great for blending lipstick colors too ( Ialways seem to wear two shades to get the color I want.).8. Eyebrow/ Eyelash Brush: The easiest least expensive of the brushes...Clean an old, soft bristle tooth brush or mascara wand well, with warm soapywater. This brow brush is perfect for shaping the brows, separating eyelashes andremoving and mascara clumps or debris. You can also set your eyebrows with hairspray or gel by applying the substance to the wand/ brush and combing through andshaping eyebrows (of course clean bristles afterwards).Brush Sets: This is a convenient way to go if you know the essential bestmakeup brushes....Why? It saves you a little leg work in tracking down brushstyles, and you will generally benefit from a price break when you buy in multiples.The Best Makeup Brushes Plus One Of The Most Essential Makeup Tools:The Eyelash Curler... an eyelash curler, is a "must have" makeup tool, it can workwonders in presenting a wider eyed look to your eyes.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 15B2: SKIN CAREMakeup is an art and applying makeup tips in a tricky way is another thing. Professionallydone makeup enhances the appeal and gives you an added dignity in society which helpsyou regain self-confidence. Makeup should be an extension of what makes you, notsomething that makes you into someone else. Even the most expensive make up in theworld would not look particularly great if it is applied carelessly and using your fingertips.The make-up includes number of things like you should knowabout make up tools like foundation, concealer, eyeshadow,eyeliners and their correct application for perfect look. Beforethe start of make-up you should choose well lighted area. Allmake up tools and products you need should be besides you.There are women who are not beautiful, but since they know theart of carrying themselves, they are the center of attractiondespite their ordinary looks.Makeup Tips - Advice and ArticlesFoundationMany women avoid wearing foundation because they are scared of an unnatural mask-likeeffect. The foundation market today is saturated with many types and brands offoundations. Foundation is the cosmetic product that women pay the most attention to. Andremember, foundation is one of those products you wear every day, so making the rightinvestment at the beginning will pay off. There are two keys to applying foundation - thefirst is to choose the perfect foundation shade and the second is to pick the rightformulation for your skin.Choosing foundation typeThe reason for applying foundation is to get a smooth and even finish to your skin. Liquidfoundation is most commonly used because it is easy to apply. However, compactfoundations are excellent alternatives as they give an even finish, which doesnt have to beset with powder.Types of FoundationsTinted Moisturizers - These are a a cross between a moisturizer and a foundation, as theywill soothe your skin while giving a little coverage. They are ideal for young or clear skins.Unlike other foundations, you can blend tinted moisturizers on with your fingertips.Liquid Foundations - These suit all but the driest skins. If you have oily skin, look for anoil-free liquid foundation to cover affected areas without aggravating them.Cream Foundations - These are thick , rich and moisturizing, making them ideal for dryor mature skins. They have a fairy heavy texture, so blend them well into your skin with adamp cosmetic sponge.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 16B2: SKIN CAREMousse Foundation - Again these are quite moisturizing and ideal for drier skins. Toapply, dab a little onto the back of your hand, then dot onto your skin with a sponge.Compact Foundation - These are all-in-one formulations, which already contain powder.They come in a compact, usually with their own sponge for application.Stick Foundation - These are the original foundation, dating back to the early days ofhollywood. They are best confined for use on badly blemished skin.HOW TO APPLY FOUNDATIONFoundation is always applied downwards, to minimize the impact of facial hair.Take out a small blob of foundation on the palm of your hand. As foundation dries up fast,dot foundation section by section on the face.Start by dotting on the forehead and blend well with a damp sponge on fingers beforemoving on.Now do it on your cheeks, then chin, nose and upper neck.You may dilute the foundation by adding some astringent, toner or even water to make itsheer enough to let your skin show through. It looks more natural if applied like this.HOW TO BUY FOUNDATIONTest foundation on the inside of the forearm-skin tone is closest to neck colour there,because its protected from UV damage. Makeup should blend with the skin colour of theneck, not the face. If any doubt then buy one shade lighter than your facial skin tone. Dontmake up your mind instantly. It takes about a minute for colour to dry and interact with thechemicals in your skin. The red pigments develop first so it will appear the pinkest at thebeginning. Then go to the nearest source of natural light. (Even the most flattering upliftcosmetics hall tends to have colour-distorting fluorescent lighting.) If you have chosen theright colour, it will disappear into the skin.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 17B2: SKIN CARE
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 18B2: SKIN CAREConcealerThe next step in make-up is the application of concealer (smooth-skin essentials). See greatresults with the use of best concealers for acne scars and blemishes.Choose Best Makeup ConcealerConcealer come in shades to match every skin tone. Choose a makeup concealer that islightweight yet creamy. A stick concealer provides direct on-the-spot application. A qualityconcealer is texture-free, virtually invisible and vitamin-enriched. The best concealer willbrighten and lighten dark areas, erase spots and even out skin tones.Quality concealer make skin flaw-free. Most concealer, including under eye concealer, canbe used under foundation or on their own. Find a concealer that is water-resistant,fragrance-free and non-comedogenic.Use of Under-Eye Concealer:Concealer is applied to cover dark circles around the eyes, thereby greatly enhancing theappearance of the face. They are matched to the skin tone and are applied before using theharmony foundation. Concealer comes in shades to match every skin tone.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 19B2: SKIN CAREHOW TO APPLY CONCEALERS1. In applying concealers, using the right makeup techniques is important. Concealers areof a denser composition than regular foundations and are generally available in sticks,tubes, pots, and creams. Concealers can be used to cover blemishes, dark spots, ruddyareas, marks, veins, freckles or under eye circles.2. Your concealer should be one shade lighter than your foundation (and only in extremecases should you use a concealer two shades lighter).3. Using a concealer that is too light or too pink will give the appearance of `owl eyes. Inother words, it will emphasize the dark area instead of concealing it.4. Apply concealer with a small fine tipped brush for an accurate application. As with anyother application, blending is the key.5. Always set your concealer with a sheer, translucent powder to prevent creasing.Powder Makeup - Tips on how to apply powderIt is used to set makeup and hold it in place. Learn here about uses of makeup powders,choosing powders and tips on applying makeup powder. Also read advice on Face Powder.Applying blush - How to Apply BlusherBlusher is a subtle ingredient of make-up and brings a blush and glow to face. We showyou how to apply blusher and highlight your best features.Give your complexion a bloom of colour with this indispensable beauty aid - blush. Applyfoundation, eye color and lipstick and then apply blusher as Blush should be your lastmakeup step. Nothing brings a dull, drowsy face to life faster than a quick sweep of blush."You put blush on, and you look instantly prettier, fresher and less tired," saysmakeup guru Bobbi Brown. Decide the color of blush you want to apply on your cheeks.Read useful advice from makeup professional on how to apply blusher.How to Apply BlushFirst choose the color that resembles the natural glow of your cheeksafter you exercise.Determine your face shape: are you oval, heart, round, long or square?Knowing this helps you determine where its best to apply the blush.Complete the application of foundation, powder and all eye makeupbefore applying blush.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 20B2: SKIN CAREPut the blush on your brush, tapping off anyexcess or put a dab of gel on your fingers.Look in the mirror and smileSweep color in an arc following the line of yourcheekbone up from the apple of your cheek toyour hairline. Keep color light & blended.Blend a little blush down your cheek for a littlemore natural, less dramatic look.Tips for applying blusherFor a sun-kissed sheen: dab a small bit of bronzer powder onyour forehead, chin & nose. Make sure it doesnt look like a stripe.Make sure to blend makeup into your jawline and hairline so it looks more natural. Also tryusing a brush instead of those square sponge things or your face will look to cakey.never mix blusher powder with other makeup creamsa color that is close to or lighter than your lipstick will work bestuse apricot shades on pale skin and dusty roses on darker skinif your skin is oily, a powder brush will last longeralways dip the brush quickly and flick your wrist to stroke the cheeklightlynever apply blusher on the nose for corrective purposesnever apply too much blusher otherwise your face will look as a maskdab a little shimmery blush on the highest point of your cheekbonenearest your eye to create a more distinct lookPowder BlushThis should be applied over the top of your foundation and face powder. To apply powderblusher, dust over the compact with a large soft brush. If you have taken too much ontoyour brush, tap the handle on the back of your hand to remove the excess. It is better towaste a little than applying too much!Cream BlusherCream blusher is applied with your fingertips, after foundation, but before face powder. Toapply, dab a few dots over your cheeks, from the plump part up towards your cheekbone.Using your fingertips, blend well. Build up the effect gradually, adding more blusher tocreate just the look you want.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 21B2: SKIN CAREColour Choice for BlusherThere is always a kaleidoscope of blusher shades to choose from. However, as a generalrule, it is best to opt for a shade that tones well with your skin colouring and co-ordinateswith the rest of your skin colouring and makeup.Mascara Application and applying makeupMascaraMascara should be applied before an eye shadow. Professional tips on mascaraapplication, colors, for highlighting your b Mascara adds a flattering fringe to your eyes- particularly if your lashes are fair. Applying Mascara is the final step in eye makeup.Mascara is applied on the eye lashes to beautify them. Different formulas and applicationof mascara can enhance your lashes in different ways. To make the eyes alluring, the use ofthe right eye makeup product using the correct technique is very important. For eye-popping appeal to this focal point of the face, the basic idea is to use complementarycolors. Mascara adds volume and length to the lashes and make your eyes appear brighterand more beautiful.How to Apply MascaraStart by applying mascara to your upper lashes first. Brush them downwards to start with,then brush your lashes upwards from underneath. Use a tiny zig-zag movement to preventmascara from clogging on your lashes.Next, use the tip of the mascara wand to brush your lower lashes, using a gentle side to sidetechnique. Take care to keep your hand steady whilst you are applying the mascara and notto blink while the mascara is still wet. Comb through your lashes with an eyelash comb toremove any excess the wand has left behind.Tips for applying eye mascaraSelect a suitable color. If you have blond or red lashes then go forbrown mascara. Darker-lashed women can consider brown for a casuallook, and black or brown-black for more pronounced or dramatic lashes.Before applying mascara curl the lashes to widen the eyes. Priorto your mascara, Curl your lashes with an eyelash curler and apply allother eye makeup.Begin with the underside of your upper eye lashes and then moving thebrush slowly upward toward the tips of your lashes.Wait for a minute for them to dry, and similarly apply a second coat. Letthe first coat dry completely, then apply the second coat. Two thin coatslook more natural than one thick coat.Finally brush with a clean dry brush, to separate the lashes.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 22B2: SKIN CARESelection of eyeliner shadesFor women with blue eyes, eyeliners in brown and rose tonescontrast the blue of the eyes, making them appear more vibrant. Greeneyes, on the other hand, brighten up with violet shades that give adramatic look for evenings or stage makeup and look great inphotographs. A mocha shade is a subtle, everyday look for all eye colorsbut especially brown eyes, which also give a smoldering look whengreen and gold eyeliners are used.Neutral shades in eyeliners are charcoal, black, and chocolate, goodfor all eye colors, except those with small eyes would do well to avoidthese, as they tend to make eyes appear smaller. Thus, it is preferableto restrict dark eyeliner colors to the crease of the eye and highlight thebrow bone with a light shade.All eye shadows need to complement the eye and hair-color of theperson and a bit of powder dusted on the eyelid prepares the eyeliner toset well and intensify the eyes.How to remove eye mascaraMascara must be removed very carefully to avoid damaging the delicate skin aroundthe eyes. While removing the mascara from eyes always avoid the colour from going ontothe delicate area below the bottom lashes and close your eyes. Roll a cotton bud dipped in acosmetic cleanser over the lashes, taking the mascara down onto the tissue. Repeat this tillall the mascara is gone.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 23B2: SKIN CAREEyelinerEyeliner is probably one of makeup artist’s most valuable tools. When used correctly you candefine, enhance, brighten and open up the eye. Eyeliner can be subtle, soft, dramatic orglamorous. A makeup artist can turn a daytime look into an evening look with a quick, skillfulapplication of dramatic eyeliner. Eyeliner can also be used for corrective purposes such asmaking wide-set eyes appear closer, opening up small eyes and many other illusions can becreated with the correct use of eyeliner.Straight Eye Liner:This eyeliner is a subtle look that follows the curve of the upper lash line. The eyeliner is asclose to the lash line as possible and should look as though it is "hugging"the lashes. The line must be as smooth and fluid as possible, and shouldnot have any jagged lines or bumps. This (as well as most otherapplications) is best done with fluid, consistent strokes. It is best to keepthe number of strokes to a minimum, the fewer strokes the better, withmost applications being done in only two strokes. This is probably themost commonly used eye liner application, as it is great for a daytimelook.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 24B2: SKIN CAREEye ShadowsGreat care is needed when applying eyeshadow. Treat yourself with tips on how to applyeyeshadow, choosing best colors and make your eyes look fantastic.How to Apply Eye shadow, Easy steps for Applying Eyeshadows and ApplicationTipsEyeshadows are certainly eye catching on the entire face. It is like fun to experiment witheye shadows, eye liners, pencils, paints,and powders but most women just want to knowwhat is right for them. Always choose neutral colours for eyeshadow to subtly enhanceyour looks, or play with kaleidoscope of different shades to contrast with and dramatizeyour colouring. For those wishing to make their eyes the focal point of attention, eyeshadows, eyebrow gels, eyeliners in the right style can do the trick. Follow below givensteps on how to apply eye shadow.How to Apply Eyeshadow1. The first rule when applying eye shadow is to blend it well so there are no harsh edges.Put the very light shade (high lighter) on the space beneath the brows up to the crease ofthe eye lid.2. Apply the medium shade on the upper eyelid only. Use a lighter shade under thebrowbone to highlight the eyes.3. And the darkest shade on the crease of the eyelid that is the place almost in the middle ofthe total eye area-above the lashes and beneath the brows. Blend both the colors well.4. With the tip of a fine brush, apply a little shadow beneath the eyes, along the lower lashline. Smudge it lightly to give your eyes a subtle, glamorous look.Applying Eyeshadow Tip submitted by PavPurple eyeshadows tend to look stunning on brown eyes as does green on hazel eyes, goldon green eyes, and for blue eyes use a blueeyeshadow in a lighter shade than your eyecolour.Eye Shadow Kit and Colour ChoiceYour eye shadow kit may contain 3 shadows-a very light shade (vanilla, very pale pink,beige, silver grey etc) which is the highlighter and which gives a light shimmer on thebrow bone and highlights it. The box has twomore shades of the same color. Light base
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 25B2: SKIN CAREshadows in pale pink, yellow, cream or beige look good on small eyes; spread over theentire lid with a touch of dark shadow in the outer corners, these accent the eyes.Apart from colour, there is a choice of forms of theeye shadows. You can choose from pressed powders,pencils, sticks, gels, crayons and creams. Pressedpowders are still the most popular form of shadows,because they are the easiest to apply and control.These are available in pearly and matt textures. Theeffect is not long lasting, but if you apply them with awet brush, you can get a deeper effect and increase thestaying qualities of the colour.Powder and Cream EyeshadowsPowder Eyeshadow: This is the most popular type. These come in pressed cakes ofpowder either with a small brush or a sponge applicator. You can build up their densityfrom barely there to dramatic. Apply using a damp brush or sponge if you want a deepcolour for an evening look.Cream Shadows: These are oil based and come in little pots or compacts. They are applied eitherwith a brush or your fingertips. They are a good choice for dry skins that need extra moisturizing.Stick Shadows and Liquid Eye ShadowWax based, you smooth these onto your eyelids from the stick. Ensure they have a creamytexture before you buy them, so they would not drag at your skin. Usually Liquideyeshadow come in a slim bottle with a sponge applicator. Look for the cream-to-powderones that smooth on as a liquid and blend to a velvety powder finish.Picking Your Eye shadow ColorsEye shadow colors matched with skin tone, eye color and hair color iswhat makeup experts recommend and neutral looks good on everyone.The first step towards applying any eye makeup is to pat some powderonto the eyelids to matte them and keep the powder eye shadow fromcreasing. If using cream eye shadow, this can be skipped as creams willclump and clog with the dry powder.Eye shadows need to coordinate with eyes and hair, not than clothes.Browns, lavenders are best for blue-eyed, blonde haired women as wellas light brown eyed-ladies. Smoky grays, bronzed pinks and silver tonedpeaches look good on women with green or black eyes.Eyeshadows Makeup Tip Suggested by Visitors
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 26B2: SKIN CARETry applying an eyeshadow that matches your skin tone. Apply to the lid all the way up tothe eyebrow. Then apply a walnut colored eyeliner on the top lid, then smudge. Put on adark brown mascara. You will look sophisticated, but very natural.NEVER wear red eyeshadow if you are a blue-eyed blonde. It seriously makes you looklike da devil. Or the American flag which is worse. By EdwardLipstick Applying makeup tips - How to Apply LipstickLipstick has been around for about 5000 years! It is the earliest and quickest way to giveyour face a focus and create an instant splash of colour. To apply lipstick properly, it isimportant to have the right tools handy for the best application of lip makeup and get thesetting right, in sync with the occasion. The first step is to choose the best shade of lipstickaccording to the skin tone. Like the colors of rainbow, there are shades of virtually everycolor when it comes to coloring your lips. With a lighter complexion, the lipstick is usedmore to subjugate your skin tone. Lighter shades make a fair complexion seems paler anddull. Go for bright colors and avoid light pinks.How to Apply LipstickEnsure your lips are soft and supple by smoothing over moisturizer before you startapplying Lipstick.Prime your lips by smoothing them with foundation, using a makeup sponge so you reachevery tiny crevice on the surface.Dust over the top of the foundation with a light dustingof your usual face powder, to help you rLipstick stay putfor longer.Rest your elbow on a firm surface and carefully dwar anoutline using a lip pencil. So it does not drag you skin, itmay help to warm it slightly in your palm. Start bydefining the cupids bow on the upper lip. Finish bycompleting the edges of the outline to the upper lip.Use a lipbrush to fill in the outline with lipstick, ensuringyou reach into every tiny crevice on the surface. Openyour mouth to brush the colour into the corners of yourlips.You will help your lipstick last longer if you blot overthe surface with a tissue. It will also give an attractive, semi-matte finish to your lips.Reapply to help a longer lasting finish.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 27B2: SKIN CAREMakeup kit essentials for applying lipstick properlyThe essential items for applying lipstick properly is having the right shade of lipstick handywith a lip brush, lip base/balm, lip liner and gloss, depending on individual taste.A lip liner defines the lips and prevents lip color from bleeding, giving it durability. Theyare available in pencil form and should be matched with the shade of lipstick used.Gentle brushing around the lips with a soft toothbrush helps to exfoliate dead cells aroundthe mouth area and give a clear, defined shape to the lip line.Applying a touch of foundation/lip base onto the lipshelps lipstick stay on longer and a neutral or lipstickmatched liner used to outline the lips after this. Thelip liner must be started from the center of the upperlip, drawn into a line towards each corner and followthe edge of the natural lip line.The color can be filled over the lips with a lip brushin slow, deliberate strokes and lipstick that has aformulation for transfer-resistant color stays for alonger time.If the lip pencil is chilled in the fridge for a fewminutes before application, it glides on smoothly andthe outlining of the lips is easier.Lip conditioners used in lipsticks give it longerstaying powder and are ideal for party wear or alldaywear too, while keeping the lips moist and nourished for hours.After the first application is over, the lips must be stretched and the liner repeated lightlyagain, blotted with a tissue and lip color re-applied with a lip brush for a no-budge, no-smudge, luscious lip wear.Making the mouth round as an o prevents lip color from spreading onto the teeth.Liners and gloss are best avoided for a lip that is too full, but just a hint of lacquer brings aglow to the face.Lipstick TipsGo over your lipstick with an ice cube for lasting results.When applying lip gloss, or lipstick, apply lip balm or chapstick first.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 28B2: SKIN CARETo make lips pink take lip balm and brush with softly to your lips.LipstickLipstick is the final stage of your makeup application. Apply these tips to make your lipskissable!
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 29B2: SKIN CARE
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 30B2: SKIN CAREActivity: Corrective Lip TreatmentUse colored pencils on the diagrams to illustrate how lipstick can be applied to create the illusionof more balanced and proportioned lips.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 31B2: SKIN CAREHow to Apply Red Lipstick: A Personalized Guide to Wearing the Red Lip Color TrendLatoya PerkinsThe key to looking chic and sexy wearing red lipstick is choosing the right product and shade, and applyingit properly. Heres how.Open up any fashion magazine this fall, andodds are youll see more than one model orcelebrity sporting a sumptuous red pout (andthe attitude to match). Think of current Itgirls such as Christina Aguilera, Dita VonTeese, and Scarlett Johannsen - many whotake their cue from old Hollywood glamourQueens such as Rita Hayworth, Vivien Leigh,and Veronica Lake.The common denominator between these ladies is self-confidence - to sport this bold look, the wearermust be comfortable being the centre of attention.The red lip is an ubiquitous trend that typically carries through each season, yet fall is undoubtedly whenthis lip look is most fitting. Were surrounded by rusty hues of orange, yellow, brown and red, and ourwardrobes reflect the richness of the season, draping us in luxurious fabrics such as velvet, suede, wool,and lace. Painting on a sexy red lip is the ultimate finish to this seasons opulence. Unfortunately, formany of us the red lip can be the most daring and daunting look to pull off. Here, well outline how tosport a notice-me pucker with style and ease.TextureMany women avoid trying a red lip because they feel it can look too brash, but depending on theapplication and texture of the product, lips can be as subtle or as intense as youre comfortable with.This season, almost anything goes as far as texture, with the exception of a high-gloss finish, as it canlook too garish with an already stand-out mouth.As a rule, a blue-based red is flattering on most complexions and will make your eyessparkle, teeth look whiter, and skin more luminous-looking.ApplicationAnother important consideration is the application. If full-on colour makes you nervous, apply lipstickwith your finger, patting it on the center of the lip and working outward to create a stained look, which iswearable anywhere. For more intensity, first choose a lip liner that either matches the desired lipstick oris a shade darker than your natural lip colour. After tracing the lip line, smudge the line slightly with a Q-tip or your fingertip to make it less rigid. Apply lip colour with a lip brush, sweeping on just enough to lay
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 32B2: SKIN CAREa foundation of colour. Blot lips with a tissue and apply a second coat, painting colour on carefully. Thisgives lips dimension and makes lip colour last. Finish the look with a dab of pearlized highlighter in eitherthe centre of the bottom lip, or just above the bow of the upper lip, which accentuates the mouth.ToneWearing the right shade for your skintone is crucial in choosing a red lip colour - as a rule, a blue-basedred is flattering on most complexions and will make your eyes sparkle, teeth look whiter, and skin moreluminous-looking. In particular, reds with a blue undertone look great on fair skin or that which has acooler undertone. If skin is ruddy, aim for a lip colour that has violet or fuchsia in it. For olive or darkerskin, orange-, golden-, or brown-based reds work best, although on very dark skin a cool blue fuchsia-redcan look beautiful.The following are some handy shade suggestions: For fair skin, Cover Girl Continuous Colour Lipstick inReally Red, or Chanel Lover Rouge Allure Luminous Satin Lip Colour.For medium skintones, Clinique Long Last Soft Shine Lipstick in Red Red Red, or Estee Lauder Pure ColourLong Lasting Lipstick in Red Attitude both look great.Olive or dark skin tones look beautiful in shades like Lancôme Rouge Absolut Crème in Merlot (mypersonal favorite) or Maybelline Moisture Extreme Lipstick in Crushed Cranberry.At this point you may be thinking: What do I do with the rest of my makeup? How should I wear myhair? When should I wear red lipstick, and when is it most appropriate? As with any makeup look,balance is key. Keep the lip the focus of the face by wearing only a sheer wash of champagne-colouredshadow on lids and a soft application of rosy blush to the apples of cheeks. For added drama, brush onseveral coats of mascara to lashes. Hair pulled loosely back into a chignon or bun at the nape of the necklooks polished; for a more glamorous look, try wearing soft retro curls or waves reminiscent of MarilynMunroe.As far as appropriateness goes, the red lip has been around so long its almost a neutral. For day or for amore casual look, choose a moist, creamyformula and try not to apply it too precisely,which can look too extreme during the day. Atnight or for more formal affairs, try a lipstickwith a matte consistency, which will up theintensity, and apply carefully all over lips.Ultimately, the choice is up to you - whateveryoure most comfortable with is what will lookbest, because youll wear it with confidence.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 33B2: SKIN CAREMakeup TipsMakeup Tip 1) Sweep a little loose powder under your eyes when applying dark shades ofeye shadow to catch any falling specks and prevent them from staining your skin.Makeup Tip 2) Make your lips look larger by wearing a bright, light lipstick. Or make theappear small by wearing dark and more muted colours.Makeup Tip 3) If you do not have a specialized contouring product for cheeks, simply usean ordinary face powder a couple of shades darker than your usual one to slim down thecheeks.Makeup Tip 4) Add a drop of witch hazel available in all good pharmacies to turnordinary foundation into a medicated one, it will work wonders on oily skin which is proneto acne and pimples.Makeup Tip 5) Mascara your lashes before applying false ones to help them stickproperly.Makeup Tip 6) If you look tired then blend a little concealer just away from the outercorner of your eye - it makes you look as though you had a good nights sleep.Makeup Tip 7) If you have not got time for a full make-up, but want to look great, painton a bright red lipstick - its is happy, glamorous color which immediately brightens yourface.Makeup Tip 8) Never apply makeup before blow drying your hair - the heat from thedryer can make you perspire and cause your makeup to smudge.Makeup Tip 9) The colour of powder eyeshadow can be made to look more intense bydipping your eyeshadow brush in water first.Makeup Tip 10) Keep eye lashes smooth andsupple by brushing them with petroleum jelly beforegoing to bed at night.Makeup Tip 11) Apply cream blusher in lightdownward movements to prevent it from creasing inspecks of colour from catching in the fine hairs onyour face.Makeup Tip 12) If mascara tends to clog on yourlower lashes then try using a small thin brush topaint colour on to individual lashes.Makeup Tip 13) Make sure you give moisturizer
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 34B2: SKIN CAREtime to sink in before you start applying your makeup as it will help your makeup go onmore easily.Makeup Tip 14) If your eye liner is too hard and drags your skin, hold it next to a lighterbulb for a few seconds before applying.Makeup Tip 15) Lip gloss can look sophisticatedif you just apply a dot in the center of your lowerlip.Makeup Tip 16) If you are unsure where to applyblusher, gently pinch your cheeks. If you like theeffect, apply blusher in the same area - it will lookwonderfully natural!Makeup Tip 17) To prevent lipstick from gettingon your teeth, try this tips - after putting it on, putyour finger in the mouth, purse your lips and pullit out.Makeup Tip 18) Women who wear glasses need to take special advice on makeup. If youare near-sighted, your glasses will make your eyes look smaller. So, go for brightereyeshadows and lots of mascara to ensure they do not disappear.Makeup Tip 19) A little foundation lightly rubbed through your eyebrows and brushedthrough with an old toothbrush will instantly lighten them.Makeup Tip 20) For long lasting blush on sunny days or hot nights, apply both cream andpowder blusher. Apply the cream formulation first, set with translucent powder then dustwith a little powder blush.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 35B2: SKIN CAREGeneral GuidelinesSPECIAL OCCASION MAKEUP Choose striking contour eyes. Choose dramatic smoky eyes. Add darker, lighter, or shimmery color to the cheeks. Apply liner color to the lips; fill in with pencil and blot. Apply gloss to the center of the lips with a lip brush or applicator.CORRECTIVE MAKEUP Facial features can be accented with proper highlighting, subdued with correct shadowingor shading, and balanced with the proper hairstyle. A basic rule is that highlighting emphasizes a feature, whereas shadowing minimizes it.ANALYZING FEATURES AND FACE SHAPE The basic rule of makeup application is to emphasize the client’s attractive features whileminimizing features that are less appealing. The goal is to enhance the client’s individuality, not to “remake” her image according tosome ideal standard.WARM AND COOL COLORS Warm colors range from yellowand gold through oranges, red-oranges, most reds, and someyellow-greens. Cool colors are dominated bythe blues, greens, violets, andblue-reds.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 36B2: SKIN CARESELECTING MAKEUP COLOR Consider skin, eye, and hair color. Decide if the skin is light, medium, or dark. Light skin color—Use light colors for a natural look anddark colors for a dramatic look. Medium skin color—Medium tones will create more ofa understated look. Light or dark tones will providemore contrast and appear bolder. Dark skin color—Dark colors will be subtle; medium orlight will be striking and vivid.COLOR FOR EYES Neutrals are always the safest choice Complementary colors are determined thus: Blue eyes—Orange: Choices include gold, warm orange-browns like peach andcopper, red-browns like mauve and plum, and neutrals like taupe or camel. Green eyes—Red: Choices include brown-based reds, red-orange, red-violet, andviolet; coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve, and purples. Brown eyes—neutral and can wear any contrasting colors such as greens, blues,grays, and silvers.CHEEK AND LIP COLORCoordinate in the same color family as the eye makeup.HAIR COLOR and EYE COLORHair color needs to be taken into account when determining eye makeup color.COLOR SELECTION STEPS• Determine skin level: light, medium, or dark.• Determine eye color: blue, green, brown, etc.• Determine skin undertone: warm, cool, or neutral.• Determine complementary colors.• Determine hair color: warm or cool.• Choose eye makeup colors based on complementary colors.• Coordinate cheek and lip colors within same color family: warm, cool, or neutral.• Apply makeup.
    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 37B2: SKIN CARESAFETY PRECAUTIONS Wash your hands before and after every application. Properly drape client. Protect client from direct skin or hair contact with chair. Keep your fingernails smooth. Use only sanitized brushes and implements. Use a shaker-type container for loose powder. Pour all lotions from bottle containers. Use clean spatula to remove creams from jars. Never apply lip color directly from container to the client’s lips. Use antiseptic on tweezed areas of the eyebrow to avoid infection. Discard all disposable items. Keep workstation sanitary, neat, and well organized.
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    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 39B2: SKIN CARE
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    • Basic Principles of Makeup TXJ3EAdapted from Milady’s Standard Cosmetology textbook and various unknown sources Page 42B2: SKIN CAREActivity: