Just stunning. Letters from Isabella Bird's travels through the interior of Japan accompanied only by her translator (an intriguingly brilliant and (by her standards) amoral individual) and a series of increasingly ill-natured horses. As well as the adventures of the trip, the viewpoints it records are remarkable: Not modern Japan, nor the Japan of the 1800s seen by most European travelers, but the interior of Japan shortly after it first opened to the West, a country which was in the process of transforming itself but which, in the areas through which Bird traveled, was still in many ways unchanged. It is Japan seen by an outsider, but not by a modern outsider, and by a traveler who was also a single, highly educated, highly opinionated and fiercely independent Victorian woman, whose views are sometimes familiar, sometimes very modern, sometimes so distant from what seems now expected or acceptable. It's a brilliant and fascinating book - as a historical record, travel journal, adventure story, and vivid example of the vicissitudes and difficulties of travelling through pre-industrial landscapes on horseback (and therefore an excellent reference for writers of historical fiction and fantasy).
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