This book fills an important niche. My rating is predicated on understanding just what that niche is. If you don't understand the niche, then you may not like the book.
There is a genre of "gourmet cookbooks" by the likes of Charlie Trotter, Craig von Foerester, Thomas Keller, etc. that discuss how to make the food that is actually served in their world-class restaurants, using the finest ingredients and having a fully-equipped restaurant kitchen at one's disposal. These books appeal to what I would call "chef hobbyists" -- people with an extraordinary interest in cooking, and have the equipment and access to ingredients that this kind of cooking requires.
Then there is the niche filled by the Cooks Illustrated series of cookbooks, focusing on more-or-less everyday meals, but analyzing all the ingredients and techniques in depth, and explaining to the reader what works, what does not, and why.
This book fits squarely in the middle of these two genres - the book gives clear explanations of ingredients and techniques, and discusses how the recipe differs from the original restaurant recipe and why, but the focus is clearly on the fine dining experience rather than everyday dinner preparation. It is essentially a bridge between ordinary food preparation, and the vastly more ambitious preparations of the celeberty chefs.
The clear explanations enable the aspiring chef to move the recipes back in the restaurant direction when availability of ingredients so inspires. This book might recommend substituting canned diced tomatoes for the original tomato concasse, and this substitution is certainly reasonable if all you have is off-season supermarket tomatoes, but if you have fresh tomatoes in your garden, hey, start choppin'. If you understand why the substitutions were made you can also understand when to substitute the other way.
All the recipes are thoroughly researched and edited, and there are few if any mistakes. Therefore, you don't need a huge experience base to spot things that just won't work, like sometimes happens with the celeberty chef gourmet books. If you just follow the recipe, you'll get good results, and because things are very well explained, you'll start building up that experience base.
Most of the celeberty gourmet cookbooks have extensive high-quality professional photography to help you get the presentation ideas right. This book does not have very much in that area, and leaves you more to your own devices. This is probably OK, since I think most chef hobbyists get interested in fancy presentation when they reach more advanced levels.
Just as you would expect from Cooks Illustrated, there are frequent sidebars discussing things like "what's the best brand of truffle oil" or tests of different mandolines.
Like all the Cook's Illustrated books, this book offers the opportunity for a great learning experience. If you want to start moving up from just making dinner to impressing your friends and family with a fine dining experience, this book is definitely the reference that you're looking for.
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