Pilling In Knitwear And Wovens


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  • Good morning Ladies and Gentlemen. Thankyou for the kind introduction Dr Chauhuri and let me say how nice it is to be back in New Delhi after an absence of over 7 years so much has changed, especially the roads. My job today is to update you on our easy care programme and also to discuss the issue of “Techno” Finishes. The first question that goes through ones mind when considering altering the characteristics of a fibre such as wool is WHY? There is of course no straight answer because it depends on your view point. From a sheep’s point of view the answer is “What is wrong with my fleece as it is, evolution has spent eons developing this most complex and amazing fibre”. Unfortunately a wool fleece is not always the best form of apparel. From a consumer’s view point the fibre is sadly not always relevant but its performance is, easy care, stain repellent, warm, cool, bulky, light, comfortable, robust. Some of these attributes are mutually exclusive unless one can add some “technology” From a retailer point of view the fibre is important but so is the marketing potential which for a given price is down to the difference between his product and the competitors down the road. I want to look at how the manufacturer can now and in the future use techno finishes to give the consumer and retailer what they want.
  • Pilling In Knitwear And Wovens

    1. 1. “ Chemical Engineering” Wool: “Providing Future Opportunities” ( 화학가공 기술을 통한 양모 산업의 미래에 대한 기회 )
    2. 2. <ul><li>What does it mean ? </li></ul><ul><li>Chemical based technology.( 화학가공 ) </li></ul><ul><li>Adds or induces new properties to wool.( 울에 새로운 기능성 도입 ) </li></ul><ul><li>Meets today’s/future demands of the consumer.( 소비자 수요에 부응 ) </li></ul><ul><li>Adds value.( 부가가치 ) </li></ul><ul><li>Provides a marketing platform for manufacturers and retailers.( 제조업체와 유통업체간의 마켓팅 고리 ) </li></ul>Techno Finishes( 테크노 가공 )
    3. 3. <ul><li>Performance( 물성 ) </li></ul><ul><li>Handle( 촉감 ) </li></ul><ul><li>Protection( 보호 ) </li></ul><ul><li>Comfort( 편안함 ) </li></ul><ul><li>Visual( 시각 ) </li></ul><ul><li>Well being( 만족감 ) </li></ul>Introduction Through “Chemical Engineering” of wool the following can be altered/induced
    4. 4. Chemical Engineering Wool for Performance( 물성 변화 )
    5. 5. Easy Care( 이지케어 – 간편한 손질과 세탁 ) <ul><li>Top </li></ul><ul><li>Loose Wool </li></ul><ul><li>Yarns </li></ul><ul><li>Fabrics (Knitted/Woven) </li></ul><ul><li>Garments </li></ul>Technologies well established for making wool “Easy Care”.
    6. 6. Low Pill ( 저 필링 ) <ul><li>No easy “Chemical” based solution. </li></ul><ul><li>Approaches include: </li></ul><ul><li>- Increasing surface friction </li></ul><ul><li>- Fibre-Fibre bonding. </li></ul><ul><li>( 표면마찰과 섬유간 본딩 ) </li></ul>Note: Both approaches tend to have negative effect on handle/fluidity.
    7. 7. <ul><li>Causes( 원인 ) </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Fibre profile( 섬유성분 ) </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Yarn twist and fabric tightness( 연수 / 직물 밀도 ) </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Finishing, poor milling and over softening( 가공 ) </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Remedies( 제거 ) </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Reversal of causes( 원인요인 ) </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Inter-fibre resin bonding( 수지에 의한 본딩 ) </li></ul></ul>Low-pilling
    8. 8. <ul><li>Yarn engineering ( 사의 구조 ) plus </li></ul><ul><li>Special polymer finish( 폴리머 가공 ) </li></ul><ul><li>Suitcase ready knitwear </li></ul><ul><li>Travel smart in wool </li></ul>Anti-crumple ( 구김 방지 )
    9. 9. Chemical Engineering Wool for Handle
    10. 10. <ul><li>Luxury </li></ul><ul><li>Low prickle </li></ul><ul><li>Soft TEC </li></ul>Untreated Soft Lustre Soft Lustre ( 소프트 러스터 )
    11. 11. <ul><li>Luxury handle </li></ul><ul><li>TEC performance </li></ul><ul><li>Durable softness </li></ul><ul><li>Reduced prickle </li></ul>Soft Lustre for worsteds ( 소프트 러스터 소모제품 )
    12. 12. Basolan 88 <ul><li>Similar to Soft-Lustre. </li></ul><ul><li>Improved handle </li></ul><ul><li>Improved brightness </li></ul><ul><li>Carried out on purpose built ANDAR Basolan applicator. </li></ul>
    13. 13. Softening( 유연 가공 ) <ul><li>Advent of silicone softeners.( 실리콘 유연제 ) </li></ul><ul><li>- Amino functional (Hydrophobic- 소수성 ) </li></ul><ul><li>- Glycol functional (Hyrophilic- 친수성 ) </li></ul>Note: Pre-treatment allows for more effective/permanent effect.
    14. 14. Handle Modification ( 촉감 개선 ) <ul><li>Cool and dry (Linen type handle) Aqualin </li></ul><ul><li>Greasy </li></ul>
    15. 15. Chemical Engineering Wool for Protection
    16. 16. <ul><li>Deolaine enhances wool’s already good effect </li></ul><ul><li>Deodorant molecule has tremendous capacity for absorption e.g: Body odour </li></ul><ul><li>Environmentally neutral & safe </li></ul><ul><li>Re-charges “automatically” upon washing. </li></ul><ul><li>Deodorant molecules firmly attached to the wool fibre. </li></ul>Odour Control : Using “Deolaine”- 방취가공
    17. 17. Durability of the Deolaine finish ( 처리제의 내구성 )
    18. 18. Vitamin E ( 비타민 처리가공 ) <ul><li>Slow release from garment to skin </li></ul><ul><li>Widely used in skin creams/cosmetics. </li></ul><ul><li>Acts like an anti-oxidant to protect the skin. </li></ul><ul><li>Applications : Next to skin apparel. </li></ul>
    19. 19. <ul><li>Stain Resist </li></ul><ul><li>Stain Release </li></ul><ul><li>Stain Blocking </li></ul>Dealing with Stains( 방오가공 )
    20. 20. <ul><li>Silicones </li></ul><ul><li>Fluorocarbons </li></ul><ul><li>Waxes </li></ul>Stain/Water Repellent( 방오 / 발수가공 )
    21. 21. <ul><li>Zirpro (exhaust) </li></ul><ul><li>Firestop (padding) </li></ul>Flame-retardant ( 방염 )
    22. 22. Insect-repellent ( 방충 ) <ul><li>Slow release insect repellent. (permanency) </li></ul><ul><li>Mentholglycol NF2 </li></ul><ul><li>Made from natural organically grown plants. </li></ul><ul><li>Particularly effective against Ticks and Mosquitoes </li></ul>
    23. 23. Anti-Tobacco( 담배냄새 제거 ) <ul><li>Protection against tobacco smoke. </li></ul><ul><li>Liberty Lemon PK0046A. </li></ul><ul><li>Slow release citrus/bergamot fragrance. </li></ul><ul><li>Counteracts the bad smell of smoke. </li></ul>
    24. 24. Anti-Cellulite( 피부 트임 방지 ) <ul><li>Slow release Kelp (BD1). </li></ul><ul><li>High Iodine content, combats poor circulation (problem with increasing age). </li></ul><ul><li>Supports the immune and lymphatic systems. </li></ul><ul><li>Reduces rate of cellulite formation. </li></ul>
    25. 25. Chemical Engineering Wool for Comfort
    26. 26. Softening Processes( 유연가공 ) <ul><li>Processes which reduce Prickle. </li></ul><ul><li>- Soft Lustre </li></ul><ul><li>- Basolan X-tra/88 </li></ul><ul><li>- Softening </li></ul>
    27. 27. <ul><li>Dry climates and air conditioned offices can lead to static build up . </li></ul><ul><li>Static in clothing causes discomfort . Garment cling , and minor shocks. </li></ul><ul><li>Static build-up can be hazardous. </li></ul><ul><li>Disperstat, long- established in the carpet sector. </li></ul><ul><li>Now available in apparel </li></ul>Static Control for Comfort ( 정전기 제어 )
    28. 28. <ul><li>Improves comfort by reducing shocks and eliminating cling </li></ul><ul><li>Improves safety by preventing build-up of static . </li></ul><ul><li>Durable to machine washing. </li></ul><ul><li>No effect on wool’s natural properties. </li></ul>Benefits of the Disperstat anti-static finish ( 영구 대전 방지가공 )
    29. 29. Skin Moisturiser ( 피부 보습제 ) <ul><li>Aloe Vera (106) </li></ul><ul><li>Slow release of moisturiser onto the skin. </li></ul><ul><li>Aloe Vera well known/established in many household products. </li></ul><ul><li>Application: Next to skin products. </li></ul>
    30. 30. Skin Coolant ( 냉감처리 가공 ) <ul><li>Slow release coolant </li></ul><ul><li>Quest Ice (Q1) </li></ul><ul><li>Reacts with enzymes present on the skin, to provide a cooling sensation. </li></ul><ul><li>Same product used in cosmetics, creams to do the same. </li></ul>
    31. 31. Chemical Engineering Wool for Visual
    32. 32. Increasing Brightness ( 선명도 증가 ) <ul><li>Lustre </li></ul><ul><li>Soft-Lustre </li></ul><ul><li>Basolan X-tra </li></ul>
    33. 33. Lacquered effects ( 락카 효과 ) <ul><li>Fashion in “New Denim” </li></ul><ul><li>Lacquered wool </li></ul><ul><li>New development </li></ul>
    34. 34. “ Antique/Old” ( 워시드 효과 ) <ul><li>Led by the Denim industry. </li></ul><ul><li>Washed out effects </li></ul><ul><li>Frosty </li></ul>
    35. 35. Visuals “New Optics” ( 뉴 옵틱스 ) <ul><li>Embedded particles. </li></ul><ul><li>- Glitter </li></ul><ul><li>- Minute glass beads </li></ul><ul><li>- Translucent particles </li></ul><ul><li>New Optics </li></ul>
    36. 36. Chemical Engineering Wool For Well-being
    37. 37. Sensory Perception Technology (SPT) ( 감각 인지 가공 ) Many of the new finishes rely on Sensory Perception Technology (SPT).
    38. 38. Sensory Perception Technology <ul><li>Time release for freshness and protection </li></ul><ul><li>Creating intelligent textiles and environments </li></ul><ul><li>Tiny particles held within the fibre or environment activated by touch </li></ul>
    39. 39. Built - In ( 내구적 적용 ) <ul><li>For fibres and fabrics – clothing or interiors </li></ul><ul><li>Works by ‘cationically welding’ the particles to the fibres </li></ul><ul><li>Allows a particular time release freshness to become an inherent part of the textiles character </li></ul>
    40. 40. <ul><li>Personal Aromatherapy sessions </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Lavender </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Sandalwood </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Rose </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Lemon </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Peppermint </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Built in miniaturisation </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Aloe Vera </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Vitamin D </li></ul></ul>Enhanced well-being ( 행복한 삶의 혜택 )
    41. 41. Marketing Chemically Engineered Wool Finishes
    42. 42. Marketing Platform <ul><li>New Finishes produced through “Chemical Engineering” of the Wool fibre </li></ul><ul><li>- Add value </li></ul><ul><li>- Provide a new marketing platform (Both for manufactures/retailers) </li></ul>
    43. 43. Branding / Merchandising
    44. 44. <ul><li>Thank You </li></ul><ul><li>For more information, go to </li></ul>www.easycarewool.com