Men’s line: Cowboy punk meets English Country Gentleman
Women’s: Miss Kitty meets Emma Peel (?)
Types of garments
What is your line plan?
Who will be wearing this/what size range?
Will one garment be the focus?
Can one garment sell the line/concept?
Will too many garments cloud the message and interfere with ability to meet deadlines?
What does Jade Howe want? Who will he serve?
What will Union Bay do?
Flat cut Hip hugger Boot cut
Skirts (length, closure, fit)
Women’s Woven Tops
Keep sleeve type, collar and closure in mind when you plan the top
Jackets and Coats
A list of what will be produced for a specific offering
Need to know
Two or more yarns interlaced at right angles
Run lengthwise, parallel to selvage, most stable direction, straight of grain
Cross wise (“weft to Wight”), fill, cross grain, most give
Formation of fabric by the inter-looping of one or more sets of yarns
Wales vertical columns of stitches
Courses are the horizontal rows
Single knit (jersey, velour)
Double (interlock, rib)
Fabric that is used
Use of garment alone
Start it now with your idea book
The cut or details of a garment cannot be copyrighted under existing law, although logos and original prints can be protected
Illegal and legal
The outline or shape of the garment
TOP (Top of Production)
Different issues when you are designing clothes
Your responsibility to find one.
Standard size and look
Men’s sizing for Hause of Howe
Medium 41” chest
XL 46 ½”
Care and Content
Country of Origin
Types of Stitches
Top Stitch (single needle/double needle)
Pattern making and layout
Preparation for presentation to factory
Spec pack/Tech Pack
Bill of Materials (BOM)
Points of Measure
Sequence of Construction
Any fabric that has not been finished
Vegetable Fiber (cotton, linen, silk, hemp)
Animal Fiber (wool, leather)
Yarn or fiber size
DPF (yarn size divided by # of filaments)
Problems and remedies
Dye lot difference
Sublimation - no use of liquid. From paper to fabric – through and through.
Printing (Roller printing, discharge, ink jet)
Freight on Board
Also called Harmonized Tariff Code (HTC) , this coding system is used by the U.S. Government to classify U.S. imports and exports. These codes can be up to 10 digits long. Exports codes (called Schedule B) are administered by the U.S. Census Bureau. Import codes are administered by the U.S. International Trade Commission (USITC). Some GATT member nations also use this system. Here is an example of a hierarchy from HS:
61 Articles of apparel and clothing accessories, knitted or crocheted 6103 Men's or boys' suits, ensembles, suit-type jackets....knitted or crocheted 6103.19 Of other textile materials 6103.19.20 Of cotton 618.104.22.168 Jackets imported as parts of suits
Post Production Issues
Quality Control – in house and/or at factory
Station system –
each part is completed at a station then goes to a central location
Begins as parts and does not come off the line until it is done