New Applications Of Dyes In Worsted Textile Industry

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New Applications Of Dyes In Worsted Textile Industry

  1. 1. New Applications of Dyes in Worsted Textile Industry Dr G S Singh Raymond Ltd
  2. 2. Introduction <ul><li>Labor intensive industry - one of the largest employment providers </li></ul><ul><li>Worsted industry in India is small in size - only 2 % of total textile operations </li></ul><ul><li>Mainly dependent on imports for its requirements of manufacturing - machinery, raw material etc </li></ul><ul><li>No worthwhile domestic R&D efforts to develop new products to support this industry </li></ul><ul><li>Step motherly treatment by the Indian dye manufacturing industry </li></ul>
  3. 3. Introduction <ul><li>Industry is totally integrated i.e. vertical in nature - comprising of Scouring, Carding, Combing, Dyeing, Spinning, Weaving, processing etc </li></ul><ul><li>Worsted industry installed capacity </li></ul><ul><li>Total worsted looms 7300 </li></ul><ul><li>Total worsted spindles 600,000 </li></ul><ul><li>Manufacturing of wool and wool blended fabric for last year was 70 million meters </li></ul><ul><li>Exports of apparel worsted fabric - around Rs. 400 Crores. </li></ul><ul><li>Apparel grade raw wool import from Australia - 90,000 tonnes </li></ul>
  4. 4. Global Fiber Front <ul><li>In 2004, Global Fiber Market was estimated at 64 million tonnes </li></ul><ul><li>Synthetic fibers </li></ul><ul><li>Polyester – 40% </li></ul><ul><li>Other synthetic fibers (Polypropylene, Polyamide, Acrylic) – 17% </li></ul><ul><li>Natural Fibers </li></ul><ul><li>Cotton & Cellulosics – 40% </li></ul><ul><li>Wool & other animal fibers – 2 % </li></ul><ul><li>Silk & other fibers - < 1 % </li></ul>
  5. 5. Development of Polyester Wool Blends <ul><li>Industry based on traditional medium weight suiting based on 22.5 micron wool, primarily for protection from winter </li></ul><ul><li>Wool imports restricted in the past </li></ul><ul><li>To meet growing demands, worsted industry in India was first to develop polyester wool blended fabrics </li></ul><ul><li>Challenge in terms of processing and in turn to dyestuff and chemical manufacturers </li></ul>
  6. 6. Development of Other Blends <ul><li>Indian worsted industry now uses very fine to medium quality of wool in pure and wide range of blends. Some of these new blends are - </li></ul><ul><li>Wool - Cotton </li></ul><ul><li>Wool – Polyester - Cotton </li></ul><ul><li>Wool – Polyester – Silk </li></ul><ul><li>Wool - Casein </li></ul><ul><li>Wool - Soybean </li></ul><ul><li>Wool - Bamboo etc </li></ul>
  7. 7. Development of Other Blends <ul><li>Industry also uses different exotic fibers along with wool like - </li></ul><ul><li>Wool – Cashmere </li></ul><ul><li>Wool – Angora </li></ul><ul><li>Wool – Mohair </li></ul><ul><li>Wool - Camel hair etc </li></ul><ul><li>Pure Silk </li></ul><ul><li>And a very wide range of polyester fibers (in terms of deniers and cross sections) </li></ul>
  8. 8. Dyeing <ul><li>Top dyeing - backbone of worsted industry </li></ul><ul><li>Colored yarns, granderille yarns, vigourex printed mixture yarns to produce fancy designs </li></ul><ul><li>Growing exports demand timely delivery of goods </li></ul><ul><li>Options - </li></ul><ul><li>- package dyeing in yarn form </li></ul><ul><li>- fabric dyeing (piece goods) </li></ul><ul><li>RFT - Right first time becomes extremely important for timely delivery </li></ul>
  9. 9. Counter Sale to Garment Manufacturing <ul><li>Traditionally suiting and trousering fabric sold across retail counter in trouser lengths and suit lengths </li></ul><ul><li>In overseas market industry has to primarily cater to garment units </li></ul><ul><li>Gradual shift - towards made ups in domestic market </li></ul><ul><li>Resultant requirement - long runs of consistent shade for a particular consignment </li></ul><ul><li>Service Mix – n – Match requirements </li></ul>
  10. 10. Workwear Requirements <ul><li>Workwear industry is also growing both in overseas market as well as in Indian market </li></ul><ul><li>Requirements for workwear are very stringent </li></ul><ul><li>- Severe washing conditions </li></ul><ul><li>- Severe drying conditions </li></ul><ul><li>- Severe pressing and ironing conditions </li></ul>
  11. 11. Existing Issues With the Industry <ul><li>Continues to face problems with regards to fastness of dark shades </li></ul><ul><li>- deep navys </li></ul><ul><li>- blacks etc </li></ul><ul><li>Industry is unable to meet the consumer demand in terms of fastness </li></ul><ul><li>Problem is particularly acute when we use polyester blended fabric for suiting </li></ul>
  12. 12. Consistency in Shade <ul><li>Industry depends mainly on top dyeing / package dyeing route for producing fancy colored yarns </li></ul><ul><li>Requirement - no shade change during processing </li></ul><ul><li>Constraint – </li></ul><ul><li>- Thermo-migration related issues blow up beyond acceptable tolerances in polyester blended fabrics </li></ul><ul><li>- Feel and hand of fabric / garment have to be compromised </li></ul><ul><li>- Sometimes result in centre to selvedge and end to end shade change. </li></ul>
  13. 13. New Finish Applications <ul><li>Availability of different types of chemical finishes e.g. </li></ul><ul><li>- Nanotex </li></ul><ul><li>- Antimicrobial </li></ul><ul><li>- Moisture Management </li></ul><ul><li>- Enzyme finish etc </li></ul><ul><li>Related Issues </li></ul><ul><li>- Threats of shade change during such chemical applications </li></ul><ul><li>- Deterioration in fastness characteristics </li></ul><ul><li>Suitable colorants to be developed for this important growing sector </li></ul>
  14. 14. Requirements of Bright Shades <ul><li>Suiting fabric is traditionally dependent on various depths of greys, blues and blacks </li></ul><ul><li>Requirement for brighter shades </li></ul><ul><li>Certain shades exhibit inferior fastness e.g. – </li></ul><ul><li>- Red </li></ul><ul><li>- Turquoises etc </li></ul>
  15. 15. New Developments in Pure Wool Fabrics <ul><li>Several new developments in area of allwool fabrics </li></ul><ul><li>Traditionally allwool garments are always dry cleaned thus the washing fastness of allwool fabric was never an issue </li></ul><ul><li>Allwool garment can be machine washed followed by tumble drying – need all round high wet fastness </li></ul><ul><li>Requirement of machine washable allwool fabric has led to the new challenges for the worsted industry </li></ul><ul><li>Newer dyes and dyeing methods which can withstand both machine washing and tumble drying </li></ul>
  16. 16. Thank You.

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