Dress, Appearance and Performance: Is There a Relationship? Lorynn R. Divita, Assistant Professor Judith Lusk, Professor Department of Family and Consumer Sciences

What is Dress? Any body covering, attachment or treatment – our appearance Dress is unique to humans Both a social as well as a personal behavior Dress is a cultural universal Other cultural universals – food, law, language

Any body covering, attachment or treatment – our appearance

Dress is unique to humans

Both a social as well as a personal behavior

Dress is a cultural universal

Other cultural universals – food, law, language

Dress Messages Dress sends messages to every other sighted human being with whom we come into contact. These messages cause others to form an idea about us and to hold certain expectations that can influence our relationship with them.

Dress sends messages to every other sighted human being with whom we come into contact.

These messages cause others to form an idea about us and to hold certain expectations that can influence our relationship with them.

Why do we adorn ourselves

Why do we adorn ourselves? We dress in order to copy the cultural ideal, and by doing so: We enhance our sense of self-esteem We increase our sense of belonging to the group We become more confident We improve our self concept

We dress in order to copy the cultural ideal, and by doing so:

We enhance our sense of self-esteem

We increase our sense of belonging to the group

We become more confident

We improve our self concept

Apparel and the self Self-concept: Beliefs, feelings and ideas and individual has about themselves. Conscious and unconscious Apparent Self: What we think others want us to be Phenomenal Self: True identity Ideal Self: The way we’d like to be Clothing can be used to help the apparent self appeal to the group, and bridge a gap between the phenomenal self and the ideal self

Self-concept: Beliefs, feelings and ideas and individual has about themselves. Conscious and unconscious

Apparent Self: What we think others want us to be

Phenomenal Self: True identity

Ideal Self: The way we’d like to be

Clothing can be used to help the apparent self appeal to the group, and bridge a gap between the phenomenal self and the ideal self

Fashion and Group Dynamics Fashion is always a group behavior because it means something has become aesthetically pleasing to most of the people in the society or culture Huge changes in taste show a change in the way people feel in the world around them

Fashion is always a group behavior because it means something has become aesthetically pleasing to most of the people in the society or culture

Huge changes in taste show a change in the way people feel in the world around them

Trivial Transient Extreme Frivolous Fashion change is never entirely arbitrary, but ugly things are sometimes in vogue. — Laver, 1937; Simmel, 1904 Fashion as... Popular Culture

Trivial

Transient

Extreme

Frivolous

Fashion change is never entirely arbitrary, but ugly things are sometimes in vogue.

— Laver, 1937; Simmel, 1904

Behavior We usually dress to cloak ourselves in the security of fitting in with a particular situation When dress is appropriate for a situation, individuals tend to feel more confident and competent. The reverse is also true.

We usually dress to cloak ourselves in the security of fitting in with a particular situation

When dress is appropriate for a situation, individuals tend to feel more confident and competent. The reverse is also true.

Communicative Variables Three communicative functions of dress: Communication Roles Status

Three communicative functions of dress:

Communication

Roles

Status

Communication The transmission by symbols of information and ideas. Not a likely function of early dress. For dress to be a language, a shared understanding must exist of its symbols. Unfortunately, communication happens whether or not a shared understanding exists.

The transmission by symbols of information and ideas.

Not a likely function of early dress.

For dress to be a language, a shared understanding must exist of its symbols.

Unfortunately, communication happens whether or not a shared understanding exists.

Communication - First Impressions and Stereotypes First Impressions: Formed within the first few seconds Includes judgments and assessments of the individual, including personality, social roles and status. Stereotypes – Assumes that a group of traits automatically go along with one attribute. People have been found to cooperate with other individuals whose appearance is similar to their own.

First Impressions: Formed within the first few seconds

Includes judgments and assessments of the individual, including personality, social roles and status.

Stereotypes – Assumes that a group of traits automatically go along with one attribute.

People have been found to cooperate with other individuals whose appearance is similar to their own.

Communication-First Impressions and Stereotypes Does this look like someone who would establish trends in high fashion? Do we expect a different clothing behavior?

Does this look like someone who would establish trends in high fashion?

Do we expect a different clothing behavior?

Roles Define the individual in society by describing the special tasks or functions he or she has in that society. Roles are learned. The more clearly defined a role is, the more specific the dress. Roles in the U.S. are becoming less defined, so dress is less specific.

Define the individual in society by describing the special tasks or functions he or she has in that society.

Roles are learned.

The more clearly defined a role is, the more specific the dress.

Roles in the U.S. are becoming less defined, so dress is less specific.

Dress and Performance Dress can help someone assume a role by helping performance and persuading others he or she belongs in the role.

Dress can help someone assume a role by helping performance and persuading others he or she belongs in the role.

What Is A Fashion? A widely popular expression (in apparel, homes, art, music and so on). How does fashion differ from style? Style = an item’s characteristics: crew or “v” neck sweater; it may be in or out of fashion. D-square fall 06

A widely popular expression (in apparel, homes, art, music and so on).

How does fashion differ from style?

Style = an item’s characteristics: crew or “v” neck sweater; it may be in or out of fashion.

Spirit of the Times (Zeitgeist ) Style Interactions Apparel Cuisine Sports Architecture Interiors Automobiles Toys Avocations Pastimes Fashion is a reflection of the times in which they are created and worn.

Style Interactions

Apparel

Cuisine

Sports

Architecture

Interiors

Automobiles

Toys

Avocations

Pastimes

Spirit of the Times (Zeitgeist ) Nystrom’s Framework (1928) Dominating events Dominating ideals Dominating social groups Dominating attitude Dominating technology Fashion is a reflection of the times in which they are created and worn.

Nystrom’s Framework (1928)

Dominating events

Dominating ideals

Dominating social groups

Dominating attitude

Dominating technology

What Is A Trend? A trend is the movement of fashion. Acceptance – consumers must buy and wear a style to make it a fashion “ There’s no fashion if nobody buys it” - Karl Lagerfeld Timeliness – Change; what is in fashion one year (or season) will be out the next makes fashion exciting

A trend is the movement of fashion.

Acceptance – consumers must buy and wear a style to make it a fashion

“ There’s no fashion if nobody buys it”

- Karl Lagerfeld

Timeliness – Change; what is in fashion one year (or season) will be out the next makes fashion exciting

Fashion Trends “ New”… because it has been missing or scarce in the marketplace But also A logical evolution from a precursor Building on a successful trial balloon A response to social change An expression of cultural drift

“ New”… because it has been missing or scarce in the marketplace

But also

A logical evolution from a precursor

Building on a successful trial balloon

A response to social change

An expression of cultural drift

Fashion Cycles NUMBER OF ADOPTERS CASUAL UNSTRUCTURED SUITS TUNICS OVER LEGGINGS Multiple Trends as Part of Long Wave Change

Fashion Lifecycle Phases Innovation – Fashion leaders pay high prices for new looks. Rise – More people start to adopt looks Acceleration– Many knockoffs; looks adopted by fashion followers. General Acceptance – Look maximizes its sales potential, can find anywhere. Decline – Sales diminish; retailers lower prices, replace the look for a newer trend. Obsolescence – “Out”

Innovation – Fashion leaders pay high prices for new looks.

Rise – More people start to adopt looks

Acceleration– Many knockoffs; looks adopted by fashion followers.

General Acceptance – Look maximizes its sales potential, can find anywhere.

Decline – Sales diminish; retailers lower prices, replace the look for a newer trend.

Obsolescence – “Out”

Diffusion of Innovation (Rogers 1962) LAGGARD Time Number of Adopters INNOVATOR EARLY ADOPTER or OPINION LEADER or FASHION LEADER MAJORITY LATE ADOPTER Change Agents Fashion Followers 2.5% 13.5%

Differences Within the Fashion Cycle Classics – Never become completely obsolete, but remain accepted for an extended period Fads – Short lived fashions, come and go, lack the character to hold consumer attention for very long Cycles within cycles – Design elements (color, texture, silhouette) change as the style stays popular

Classics – Never become completely obsolete, but remain accepted for an extended period

Fads – Short lived fashions, come and go, lack the character to hold consumer attention for very long

Cycles within cycles – Design elements (color, texture, silhouette) change as the style stays popular

Who Leads or Follows Fashion? Fashion innovators – earliest communicators of a new style or look to other fashion consumers. May or may not be influential in making other people like the style, but create awareness Provide visual display and initial exposure of the style These people feel more socially secure and are more interested in fashion than other people

Fashion innovators – earliest communicators of a new style or look to other fashion consumers.

May or may not be influential in making other people like the style, but create awareness

Provide visual display and initial exposure of the style

These people feel more socially secure and are more interested in fashion than other people

Who Leads or Follows Fashion? Fashion Opinion Leaders – Legitimize a style for fashion followers. Influence people in their social world Stay within the social norms of their groups May adopt slightly modified or toned-down versions of a style or a look after innovators have received attention from others

Fashion Opinion Leaders – Legitimize a style for fashion followers.

Influence people in their social world

Stay within the social norms of their groups

May adopt slightly modified or toned-down versions of a style or a look after innovators have received attention from others

Diffusion of Innovation LAGGARDS LATE MAJORITY EARLY MAJORITY EARLY ADOPTER INNOVATORS S-CURVE Form

Who Leads or Follows Fashion? Innovative communicators – People who are both innovators and opinion leaders Appearance-conscious, spend a lot of money on clothes, know a lot about brands Fashion followers – Look to others for behavior guidelines rather than follow their values system or marketers

Innovative communicators – People who are both innovators and opinion leaders

Appearance-conscious, spend a lot of money on clothes, know a lot about brands

Fashion followers – Look to others for behavior guidelines rather than follow their values system or marketers

High Fashion vs. Mass Fashion High fashion looks are created by designers and exclusive stores. Fashion leaders buy these looks during the introduction and growth stages. The goods are expensive but exclusivity is what fashion leaders crave. Mass fashion is made by manufacturers and retailers at many prices. Fashion followers (most people interested in fashion) wear mass fashion. Fashion laggards want good value;they buy late.

High fashion looks are created by designers and exclusive stores.

Fashion leaders buy these looks during the introduction and growth stages.

The goods are expensive but exclusivity is what fashion leaders crave.

Mass fashion is made by manufacturers and retailers at many prices.

Fashion followers (most people interested in fashion) wear mass fashion.

Fashion laggards want good value;they buy late.

Fashion, Fads, Classics NUMBER OF ADOPTERS TIME FAD CLASSIC FASHION

Fads and Classics A classic is a fashion look that has been around longer than expected. Retailers sell classics season after season. A fad has a short life cycle. Savvy retailers capitalize on fads.

A classic is a fashion look that has been around longer than expected. Retailers sell classics season after season.

A fad has a short life cycle. Savvy retailers capitalize on fads.

Theories of Fashion Acceptance These theories explain how fashions move from one socioeconomic level of society to another. Trickle down. Fashions move from higher social levels to lower. How? Trickle across (horizontal, diffusion). Fashion looks are similar at Saks and Target. Why? Trickle up (upward flow). Fashions originate on the street and move up. When?

These theories explain how fashions move from one socioeconomic level of society to another.

Trickle down. Fashions move from higher social levels to lower. How?

Trickle across (horizontal, diffusion). Fashion looks are similar at Saks and Target. Why?

Trickle up (upward flow). Fashions originate on the street and move up. When?

Transforming Basics into Fashion Marketers change customers’ attitudes by transforming rational buying motives reasons into emotional ones. They offer new features and benefits such as color and texture, styling, and details.

Marketers change customers’ attitudes by transforming rational buying motives reasons into emotional ones.

They offer new features and benefits such as color and texture, styling, and details.

What Influences Fashion Changes? Technology Economic Conditions Social Conditions Celebrities Hollywood Globalization

Technology

Economic Conditions

Social Conditions

Celebrities

Hollywood

Globalization

Business Begins and Ends with the Consumer The apparel supply chain has one purpose To provide an appealing and desirable product To satisfy customer needs, wants, or aspirations

The apparel supply chain

has one purpose

To provide an appealing

and desirable product

To satisfy customer

needs, wants, or aspirations

The Fashion Industry Today fashion is an integral part of our economy and our culture. It is hard to find a product that does not contain some element of fashion! Retailers promote fashion through advertising, sales promotion, product presentation and direct selling. Fashion drives sales but makes the retailer’s job more complex.

Today fashion is an integral part of our economy and our culture.

It is hard to find a product that does not contain some element of fashion!

Retailers promote fashion through advertising, sales promotion, product presentation and direct selling.

Fashion drives sales but makes the retailer’s job more complex.

For some help with fashion issues Consult WWW.fashion.about.com There are videos on how to solve fashion issues in your life.

Consult WWW.fashion.about.com

There are videos on how to solve fashion issues in your life.