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ISA Certified Arborist Training Tree Instillation and Establishment
Tree Planting <ul><li>Many stresses and physiological disorders can be traced to poor planting practices </li></ul><ul><li...
When to plant <ul><li>If planted in the fall after leaf drop, roots may begin establishment before dormancy </li></ul><ul>...
Three types of planting stock <ul><li>Bare root </li></ul><ul><li>Containerized (potted) </li></ul><ul><li>Balled and Burl...
Bare root
Bare Root <ul><li>Small and easy to transplant </li></ul><ul><li>No soil on the roots, very light </li></ul><ul><li>Roots ...
 
 
Planting Bare Root <ul><li>Bare-root trees should be planted on small compact mounds within the planting holes </li></ul><...
Containerized <ul><li>Are grown or placed in a container </li></ul><ul><li>Can be planted any time of year- if watered an ...
Watch for encircling roots which could girdle the tree.
 
Don’t buy this tree
Not all containerized trees are container grown, be sure an established root system exists within the pot before purchase .
Container Planting   <ul><li>Always remove the container before planting, unless it is in a biodegradable pot  (and maybe ...
Balled and Burlapped – B&B <ul><li>Easier transplanting of larger sizes </li></ul><ul><li>Widely available and easy to fin...
B&B continued <ul><li>Burlap used to wrap the root ball supports the the root system and prevents drying by reducing roots...
Handling trees <ul><li>Transporting- Always cover trees on a trailer or in a truck bed to prevent wind burn.  Be careful n...
Planting a Tree <ul><li>Dig the planting hole two to three times wider than the container or root ball </li></ul><ul><ul><...
<ul><li>Handle the tree by the container or root ball not the trunk. </li></ul>
<ul><li>Carefully cut and remove any twine wrapped around the trunk at the top of the root ball. </li></ul><ul><li>Remove ...
<ul><li>Never plant deeper then the tree is in the root </li></ul><ul><li>ball or container. Laying a board or pole across...
Root flare <ul><li>Find the proper planting depth is very important for establishment  </li></ul>
Planting Depth <ul><li>Planting too deep is a common problem that can lead to tree stress or death </li></ul><ul><li>Soft ...
 
Tree planted shallow in heavy soil to prevent ‘drowning’
 
How roots grow in the planting hole  Most root growth is shallow and horizontal
<ul><li>Backfill the hole with loose soil </li></ul><ul><li>Do not amend the soil – Use what came out of the hole </li></ul>
<ul><li>Saturate the hole with water </li></ul><ul><li>Add more soil if needed </li></ul>
<ul><li>Cover the planting area with 3 inches of mulch. </li></ul><ul><li>Do not pile mulch against the trunk! </li></ul>
<ul><li>Remove all ties and any stakes that came with the tree! </li></ul>
Staking & Guying <ul><li>Staking may be needed to protect the tree from equipment and people. </li></ul><ul><li>Do not guy...
 
Staking <ul><li>Staking should be avoided if possible </li></ul><ul><li>Staking may help protect the tree from vandalism <...
Watering <ul><li>Water is the single most important need of newly planted trees. </li></ul><ul><li>Moist but not wet </li>...
Mulch <ul><li>Conserves moisture </li></ul><ul><li>Retards grass and weeds </li></ul><ul><li>Reduces soil temperature </li...
Not enough mulch
Too much mulch
The best case scenario
Other important points <ul><li>Fertilization is often not recommended at the time of planting </li></ul><ul><li>Pruning im...
More points <ul><li>Tree guards maybe useful but need to be lose fitting and allow for air circulation </li></ul><ul><li>A...
Transplanting <ul><li>In general the best time to transplant is in the early spring or late fall when the tree is dormant ...
Transplanting <ul><li>1 st  cuts made with sharp axe- clean cuts, avoid tearing or breaking roots </li></ul><ul><li>If dug...
Tree Spade <ul><li>Mechanical tree digger that comes in various sizes </li></ul><ul><li>If a spade is used to dig the plan...
Transplanting <ul><li>After trees are dug from the field they are </li></ul><ul><li>sometimes  Hardened off  in a protecte...
Transplanting Size <ul><li>Measure 12” above the root flare (hopefully ground level) to determine diameter </li></ul><ul><...
Wrong tree for your driveway
Wrong site for any tree
Wrong tree for a small site
Wrong site
Too close to van
Wrong species for the tree lawn
What wrong with this planting?
 
Planting space too small
Root Girdled Tree
Twine not removed at planting
Girdling root
Key Terms <ul><li>Balled and Burlapped </li></ul><ul><li>Bare root </li></ul><ul><li>Container grown </li></ul><ul><li>Con...
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Isa tree planting

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Transcript of "Isa tree planting"

  1. 1. ISA Certified Arborist Training Tree Instillation and Establishment
  2. 2. Tree Planting <ul><li>Many stresses and physiological disorders can be traced to poor planting practices </li></ul><ul><li>Plant the right tree in the right place </li></ul><ul><li>(consider the trees needs vs.the limitations of the site) </li></ul>
  3. 3. When to plant <ul><li>If planted in the fall after leaf drop, roots may begin establishment before dormancy </li></ul><ul><li>Early spring before bud-break is also a good time to plant trees </li></ul><ul><li>Trees establish most quickly when soil temperatures are warm and moisture is adequate </li></ul><ul><li>Maintaining enough moisture is crucial to encourage roots to grow into the surrounding soil </li></ul>
  4. 4. Three types of planting stock <ul><li>Bare root </li></ul><ul><li>Containerized (potted) </li></ul><ul><li>Balled and Burlapped (B&B) </li></ul>
  5. 5. Bare root
  6. 6. Bare Root <ul><li>Small and easy to transplant </li></ul><ul><li>No soil on the roots, very light </li></ul><ul><li>Roots must be kept moist </li></ul><ul><li>Planted during the dormant season </li></ul><ul><li>Only deciduous trees or small </li></ul><ul><li>conifers can be planted bare root </li></ul><ul><li>Planted on small mounds in planting hole to spread the roots </li></ul><ul><li>May require staking </li></ul><ul><li>Low cost </li></ul><ul><li>Careful storage needed (32 º - 40 º F and moist) </li></ul>
  7. 9. Planting Bare Root <ul><li>Bare-root trees should be planted on small compact mounds within the planting holes </li></ul><ul><li>Roots must be kept moist to minimize drying- limit their exposure to the air </li></ul><ul><li>May require staking </li></ul>
  8. 10. Containerized <ul><li>Are grown or placed in a container </li></ul><ul><li>Can be planted any time of year- if watered an maintained properly </li></ul><ul><li>Easy to store and handled </li></ul><ul><li>Wide variety of sizes avialiable </li></ul><ul><li>Good survival rates if grown and planted properly </li></ul><ul><li>Less transplant shock? </li></ul><ul><li>Watch for girdling roots </li></ul>
  9. 11. Watch for encircling roots which could girdle the tree.
  10. 13. Don’t buy this tree
  11. 14. Not all containerized trees are container grown, be sure an established root system exists within the pot before purchase .
  12. 15. Container Planting <ul><li>Always remove the container before planting, unless it is in a biodegradable pot (and maybe then as well) </li></ul><ul><li>Circling roots should be separated and spread, if this is not possible, they should be cut in at least two places to prevent girdling </li></ul>
  13. 16. Balled and Burlapped – B&B <ul><li>Easier transplanting of larger sizes </li></ul><ul><li>Widely available and easy to find </li></ul><ul><li>Heavy and hard to handle </li></ul><ul><li>Much of the root system is lost during digging </li></ul><ul><li>Digging B&B trees can result in the loss of as much as 95% of the root system </li></ul>
  14. 17. B&B continued <ul><li>Burlap used to wrap the root ball supports the the root system and prevents drying by reducing roots contact with the air </li></ul><ul><li>If burlap is synthetic, or treated to prevent it from decomposing, it must be removed prior to planting </li></ul><ul><li>Burlap exposed to the air after planting can </li></ul><ul><li>promote ‘wicking’ of water away from the root ball </li></ul>
  15. 18. Handling trees <ul><li>Transporting- Always cover trees on a trailer or in a truck bed to prevent wind burn. Be careful not to leave trees covered with a heavy dark tarp on a hot sunny day. </li></ul><ul><li>Moving- Never lift the tree by the trunk (unless bare root). Always carry by the container or root ball. Many tools exist to make this easier: Hay hooks, dollies, ball carts, slings, etc… </li></ul>
  16. 19. Planting a Tree <ul><li>Dig the planting hole two to three times wider than the container or root ball </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Same depth as the container or ball </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Remove existing grass </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Scratch sides of hole if glazed </li></ul></ul>
  17. 20. <ul><li>Handle the tree by the container or root ball not the trunk. </li></ul>
  18. 21. <ul><li>Carefully cut and remove any twine wrapped around the trunk at the top of the root ball. </li></ul><ul><li>Remove all tags and labels </li></ul><ul><li>If possible, orient the tree to same direction it was planted in the nursery </li></ul><ul><li>Container grown trees should have encircling roots cut. </li></ul>
  19. 22. <ul><li>Never plant deeper then the tree is in the root </li></ul><ul><li>ball or container. Laying a board or pole across </li></ul><ul><li>the planting hole is a good way to check. </li></ul>
  20. 23. Root flare <ul><li>Find the proper planting depth is very important for establishment </li></ul>
  21. 24. Planting Depth <ul><li>Planting too deep is a common problem that can lead to tree stress or death </li></ul><ul><li>Soft fill should not be added to the bottom of the hole because the root ball will settle and be planted too deeply. </li></ul><ul><li>Gravel should not be added to bottom of hole as it can encourage a ‘perched water table’. </li></ul><ul><li>In heavy clay soils trees should be planted shallow (with 3”-5” of root ball exposed) </li></ul>
  22. 26. Tree planted shallow in heavy soil to prevent ‘drowning’
  23. 28. How roots grow in the planting hole Most root growth is shallow and horizontal
  24. 29. <ul><li>Backfill the hole with loose soil </li></ul><ul><li>Do not amend the soil – Use what came out of the hole </li></ul>
  25. 30. <ul><li>Saturate the hole with water </li></ul><ul><li>Add more soil if needed </li></ul>
  26. 31. <ul><li>Cover the planting area with 3 inches of mulch. </li></ul><ul><li>Do not pile mulch against the trunk! </li></ul>
  27. 32. <ul><li>Remove all ties and any stakes that came with the tree! </li></ul>
  28. 33. Staking & Guying <ul><li>Staking may be needed to protect the tree from equipment and people. </li></ul><ul><li>Do not guy a tree if it is not needed. </li></ul><ul><li>Try to select trees that do not need guying. </li></ul><ul><li>Remove the guy wire as soon as not needed </li></ul>
  29. 35. Staking <ul><li>Staking should be avoided if possible </li></ul><ul><li>Staking may help protect the tree from vandalism </li></ul><ul><li>Do not drive stake through the root ball </li></ul><ul><li>Allow for flexibility, it is important for the trees growth for it to be able to move some </li></ul><ul><li>Trees greater then 4” are often supported by guying </li></ul><ul><li>Sakes and guys should be removed after one growing season whenever possible </li></ul>
  30. 36. Watering <ul><li>Water is the single most important need of newly planted trees. </li></ul><ul><li>Moist but not wet </li></ul><ul><li>Water about once a week = to one inch of rain. </li></ul><ul><li>When it rains enough, don’t water </li></ul>
  31. 37. Mulch <ul><li>Conserves moisture </li></ul><ul><li>Retards grass and weeds </li></ul><ul><li>Reduces soil temperature </li></ul><ul><li>Adds organic matter </li></ul><ul><li>Keeps your mower away from the tree!!!! </li></ul>
  32. 38. Not enough mulch
  33. 39. Too much mulch
  34. 40. The best case scenario
  35. 41. Other important points <ul><li>Fertilization is often not recommended at the time of planting </li></ul><ul><li>Pruning immediately after planting should only be done to remove diseased, dying or damaged limbs </li></ul><ul><li>Trunk wrap is generally not recommended and if used should be removed after one year </li></ul>
  36. 42. More points <ul><li>Tree guards maybe useful but need to be lose fitting and allow for air circulation </li></ul><ul><li>A rule of thumb for re-establishment after transplanting is one year for each inch of caliper (it sometimes possible for smaller trees to recover more quickly then larger ones) </li></ul>
  37. 43. Transplanting <ul><li>In general the best time to transplant is in the early spring or late fall when the tree is dormant </li></ul><ul><li>Sometimes very large trees are dug in the winter when the ground is frozen, this does less damage to the root ball and surrounding area </li></ul><ul><li>Root pruning can greatly increase the amount of absorbing roots in the ball when it is dug (digging around in a radius smaller then root ball will produce new root growth within the ball for future harvest) </li></ul>
  38. 44. Transplanting <ul><li>1 st cuts made with sharp axe- clean cuts, avoid tearing or breaking roots </li></ul><ul><li>If dug with machinery, dig the ball several inches larger then needed so final cuts can be made by hand </li></ul><ul><li>Ball should taper, wider at the top then the base </li></ul><ul><li>Burlap is held together by nails and large balls are ‘drum laced’ with rope to hold them together </li></ul>
  39. 45. Tree Spade <ul><li>Mechanical tree digger that comes in various sizes </li></ul><ul><li>If a spade is used to dig the planting hole, the whole should be widened and roughened to prevent glazing and encourage new root growth </li></ul><ul><li>Digging and planting trees on a slope can be a problem with a tree spade </li></ul>
  40. 46. Transplanting <ul><li>After trees are dug from the field they are </li></ul><ul><li>sometimes Hardened off in a protected </li></ul><ul><li>holding area </li></ul>
  41. 47. Transplanting Size <ul><li>Measure 12” above the root flare (hopefully ground level) to determine diameter </li></ul><ul><li>10” of ball for each 1” of trunk a rule of thumb (for MINIMUM ball size) </li></ul><ul><li>In general a root ball depth 30-36” is enough </li></ul>
  42. 48. Wrong tree for your driveway
  43. 49. Wrong site for any tree
  44. 50. Wrong tree for a small site
  45. 51. Wrong site
  46. 52. Too close to van
  47. 53. Wrong species for the tree lawn
  48. 54. What wrong with this planting?
  49. 56. Planting space too small
  50. 57. Root Girdled Tree
  51. 58. Twine not removed at planting
  52. 59. Girdling root
  53. 60. Key Terms <ul><li>Balled and Burlapped </li></ul><ul><li>Bare root </li></ul><ul><li>Container grown </li></ul><ul><li>Containerized </li></ul><ul><li>Drum laced </li></ul><ul><li>Girdling root </li></ul><ul><li>Guying </li></ul><ul><li>Hardened off </li></ul><ul><li>Perched water table </li></ul><ul><li>Planting specifications </li></ul><ul><li>Root ball </li></ul><ul><li>Root pruning </li></ul><ul><li>Staking </li></ul><ul><li>Transplant shock </li></ul><ul><li>Tree spade </li></ul><ul><li>Tree wrap </li></ul><ul><li>Wire basket </li></ul>
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