analyzing trends | parsons the new school for designTHE CODES OFLUXURY WORKSHOP                               2           ...
what isluxury?          3   TIM STOCK
In the 14th century, luxury was originally a pejorativeword, denoting ‘sinful self-indulgence’.                           ...
"luxury is not the opposite of poverty; it is theopposite of vulgarity."     COCO CHANEL                             5    ...
We don’t       But it is interwoven into our ownneed it        sense of self expression.           6                      ...
Are we living up to the ways thatLuxury        aspirations have evolved? Can wereflects us.   look ourselves in the mirror ...
485,000,000 results      luxurywhat does luxury       what associations can you                       find by running a sim...
Grecia                                            Alexia  Sophie    Anna    Group A                  Group C         Kelly...
The signals have        the word means too                        many things to hold anybecome noise.           true valu...
time                      PAST          PRESENT      FUTURE                MACRO TREND                   SUSTAINED SHIFTS ...
technology       economics social shiftsTREND FORCES           GOVERNMENT / TECHNOLOGY / SOCIETY/ RESOURCES identifying th...
IMAGE: All rights reserved by Fabio Suenaga (on Flickr)                                                time               ...
IMAGE: Frog Design               time          TRANSPARENCY                    ACCESS           FUELS EMPOWERED           ...
time          OUTSOURCE        GROWTH MARKET                           More than half of the growthGlobalization has      ...
rank                    perfection                                freedom                                                 ...
rank consumption as status17                TIM STOCK
Wall Street (1987)rank                  “...greed--for lack of a better word--is1980s             good. Greed is right. Gr...
Glengary Glen Ross (1992)  rank1990s The culture   “you drove a Hyundai to get here tonight, I                    drove an...
rankA counterfeit          ...signals of increased accesseconomy emerges                  20                          TIM ...
rankMcMansions frame a        ...and set the framework fornew aspiration            the future economic bubble            ...
rank        knowledge  RESIDUAL     EMERGENT    CODE         CODE                               An evolving generation acc...
rank              knowledge                       RESIDUAL             EMERGENT                         CODE              ...
rank RESIDUAL            knowledge              EMERGENT   CODE         CODE                         GM sells a model in C...
rank       stealth RESIDUAL   EMERGENT   CODE       CODE                       Lufthansas First Class TerminalRank evolves...
rank                                      RESIDUAL                                                      stealth           ...
rank                             RESIDUAL                                                   vice                          ...
Guiltconsumption asawareness                 28   TIM STOCK
guiltRethinking powerWe now seek power thatenables change."Power is the ability to produceintended effects." --Bertrand Ru...
rank                guilt                          RESIDUAL             EMERGENT                            CODE          ...
guilt      restraint              EMERGENT  RESIDUAL      CODE    CODE                                                 Ber...
guilt      restraint              EMERGENT  RESIDUAL    CODE        CODEBrand restraint          Gucci’s initiative toward...
Two New York culinary refugees set                                     up a rustic cocina called Hartwood in              ...
guilt      aware           EMERGENTRESIDUAL  CODE       CODEBuilding a             Think Global Taste Local is a foodrecon...
Perfectiona relentless pursuit ofperfecting the process bywhich an object is crafted.    35                        TIM STOCK
perfectionGreek ideals havenew relevancePursuit of excellence (arete)was paramount. such aspirationrequired effort, discip...
perfection    craft   RESIDUAL   EMERGENT     CODE       CODE                              Chanel buys seven of the mostCo...
I Am Love (2010)perfection    craft   RESIDUAL   EMERGENT     CODE       CODE                          Perfection applies ...
perfection    craft   RESIDUAL   EMERGENT     CODE       CODE                              Abercrombie & Fitch is waitingC...
perfection            focus                                                   EMERGENT                                 RES...
IMAGE: Some rights reserved by Kominyetska (on Flickr)perfection    enigmatic   RESIDUAL     EMERGENT     CODE         COD...
FreedomThe pursuit of personalacquisitions and creativeaccomplishments.     42                     TIM STOCK
freedomThe power   “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only.            Fashion is in the sky, in the street,...
freedom       empower               EMERGENT   RESIDUAL     CODE        CODE                          Gen Y shoppers are i...
freedom              empower                                                 EMERGENT                            RESIDUAL ...
freedom                           empower         RESIDUAL                  EMERGENT           CODE                      C...
freedom      empower              EMERGENT  RESIDUAL    CODE        CODE                         We question the sharing o...
freedom      empower              EMERGENT  RESIDUAL    CODE        CODEDIY culture emerges      This highly-customizable ...
freedom      play             EMERGENT  RESIDUAL    CODE       CODE                             Poking fun at himself, The...
freedom      play             EMERGENT  RESIDUAL    CODE       CODETranscend the           Bright and positive graphic pac...
Alexia   Grecia  Sophie    Group A               Group C                    Kelly    Anna                                 ...
before your groupgets started...let’s try out somesample ads to decode          52           TIM STOCK
residual code?emergent code?signifiers? clues?             53   TIM STOCK
residual code?emergent code?signifiers? clues?             54   TIM STOCK
your turn...20 minutes to source 4 examples10 minutes to discuss/analyze in group10 minutes per group to share/discuss    ...
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The Codes of Luxury Workshop

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Transcript of "The Codes of Luxury Workshop"

  1. 1. analyzing trends | parsons the new school for designTHE CODES OFLUXURY WORKSHOP 2 TIM STOCK
  2. 2. what isluxury? 3 TIM STOCK
  3. 3. In the 14th century, luxury was originally a pejorativeword, denoting ‘sinful self-indulgence’. 4 TIM STOCK
  4. 4. "luxury is not the opposite of poverty; it is theopposite of vulgarity." COCO CHANEL 5 TIM STOCK
  5. 5. We don’t But it is interwoven into our ownneed it sense of self expression. 6 TIM STOCK
  6. 6. Are we living up to the ways thatLuxury aspirations have evolved? Can wereflects us. look ourselves in the mirror and feel comfortable with what it means today? 7 TIM STOCK
  7. 7. 485,000,000 results luxurywhat does luxury what associations can you find by running a simplemean today? google search? 8 TIM STOCK
  8. 8. Grecia Alexia Sophie Anna Group A Group C Kelly ClaudiaFernanda Paloma Eric Joy Jacqueline Abigail Uyen-Nhu Shadee Lena Group B Group D Yasmine Polina Jana Alex Anne Group develop a taxonomy (a set of like words / associations for your group’s Exercise perception of luxury’s meaning 9 TIM STOCK
  9. 9. The signals have the word means too many things to hold anybecome noise. true value today 10 TIM STOCK
  10. 10. time PAST PRESENT FUTURE MACRO TREND SUSTAINED SHIFTS PERCEPTION / BEHAVIOR CULTURE / EXPRESSION / INFLUENCETREND FORCES GOVERNMENT / TECHNOLOGY / SOCIETY/ RESOURCESHow can we forecast the future of luxury? 11 TIM STOCK
  11. 11. technology economics social shiftsTREND FORCES GOVERNMENT / TECHNOLOGY / SOCIETY/ RESOURCES identifying the trend forces that have shifted the story... 12 TIM STOCK
  12. 12. IMAGE: All rights reserved by Fabio Suenaga (on Flickr) time ASPIRATION AUSTERITY FUELED BY FUELED BY BORROWED VALUE BUBBLES MONEYTREND FORCES GOVERNMENT / TECHNOLOGY / SOCIETY/ RESOURCES Recession The recession has left us acutely aware of the fallacies of finance reveals fallacies and the need for sustainability. 13 TIM STOCK
  13. 13. IMAGE: Frog Design time TRANSPARENCY ACCESS FUELS EMPOWERED CHALLENGES CONSUMERS BRAND CONTROLTREND FORCES GOVERNMENT / TECHNOLOGY / SOCIETY/ RESOURCES Technology A catalyst for stories and participation... and what challenges control people expect to happen. 14 TIM STOCK
  14. 14. time OUTSOURCE GROWTH MARKET More than half of the growthGlobalization has in global demand for importsbroadened the narrative is now originating in developing countries. 15 TIM STOCK
  15. 15. rank perfection freedom guilt Luxury’s four These four codes reflect a human centered way meaning codes of meaning operates in the culture as a whole.scenarioDNA | connecting brands to culture 16
  16. 16. rank consumption as status17 TIM STOCK
  17. 17. Wall Street (1987)rank “...greed--for lack of a better word--is1980s good. Greed is right. Greed works. GreedGreed economics clarifies, cuts through, and captures the essence of the evolutionary spirit. 18 TIM STOCK
  18. 18. Glengary Glen Ross (1992) rank1990s The culture “you drove a Hyundai to get here tonight, I drove an eighty thousand dollarof keeping up. BMW.” (brands as bragging rights) 19 TIM STOCK
  19. 19. rankA counterfeit ...signals of increased accesseconomy emerges 20 TIM STOCK
  20. 20. rankMcMansions frame a ...and set the framework fornew aspiration the future economic bubble 21 TIM STOCK
  21. 21. rank knowledge RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODE An evolving generation acceptsToday knowlege that the definition of rank andreframes rank its appearance expands and matures over time. 22 TIM STOCK
  22. 22. rank knowledge RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODEHow informed Maestro Dobel tequila’s small batch production is noted by handwrittenare you? date and bottle numbers, as well as distiller name. 23 TIM STOCK
  23. 23. rank RESIDUAL knowledge EMERGENT CODE CODE GM sells a model in China so popularBuik GL8 Minivans with executives that it’s often lined upin China outside galas and high-end restaurants. 24 TIM STOCK
  24. 24. rank stealth RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODE Lufthansas First Class TerminalRank evolves to (FCT) is an independent terminalstealth allows one to barely sees the travelers in other classes. 25 TIM STOCK
  25. 25. rank RESIDUAL stealth EMERGENT CODE CODE Musician Seal and his Vertu Constellation Questpursuit of excellence (arete) was paramount. we crave most are Stealth is about The thingssuch aspiration required effort, discipline and intelligence.can see activating intangibles. not always what we and touch. 26 TIM STOCK
  26. 26. rank RESIDUAL vice EMERGENT CODE CODE Kate Moss smoking at LouisVice emerges as Vuitton sparks controversy.expression of choice Similarly fur makes are up (while meat consumption is down) 27 TIM STOCK
  27. 27. Guiltconsumption asawareness 28 TIM STOCK
  28. 28. guiltRethinking powerWe now seek power thatenables change."Power is the ability to produceintended effects." --Bertrand Russell, 193829 TIM STOCK
  29. 29. rank guilt RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODE Net-A-Porter offers brownGuilt supplants rank as bag service to keep yourrecession hits in 2008 purchases less conspicuous 30 TIM STOCK
  30. 30. guilt restraint EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODE Beresheet Hotel, Israel We force ourselves to engageIn search of the new rituals in attempt to get closeropposite of “stuff” to the essence of what we seek. we want to feel where we are. 31 TIM STOCK
  31. 31. guilt restraint EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODEBrand restraint Gucci’s initiative toward FSC paperis about fixing and cutting down on excess packaging is only one angle of a largerthe small things sustainability campaign. 32 TIM STOCK
  32. 32. Two New York culinary refugees set up a rustic cocina called Hartwood in Tulum, Mexico, using local meats, seafood and produce cooked in an guilt aware EMERGENT outdoor open kitchen. RESIDUAL CODE CODEAwareness of the Working within local parameters makes a profoundcontext you are in. statement of commitment. 33 TIM STOCK
  33. 33. guilt aware EMERGENTRESIDUAL CODE CODEBuilding a Think Global Taste Local is a foodreconnection to hunting company presenting the best gastronomic products fromthe source small regional companies. 34 TIM STOCK
  34. 34. Perfectiona relentless pursuit ofperfecting the process bywhich an object is crafted. 35 TIM STOCK
  35. 35. perfectionGreek ideals havenew relevancePursuit of excellence (arete)was paramount. such aspirationrequired effort, discipline andintelligence. 36 TIM STOCK
  36. 36. perfection craft RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODE Chanel buys seven of the mostControl of process specialized ateliers in Paris, ensuringis critical continuation of the houses own couture techniques. 37 TIM STOCK
  37. 37. I Am Love (2010)perfection craft RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODE Perfection applies to all senses, asEvery detail is well as to what you don’t perceive.subject to scrutiny Dishes created for “I Am Love” by chef Carol Cracco fueled the scenes. 38 TIM STOCK
  38. 38. perfection craft RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODE Abercrombie & Fitch is waitingCraft loses meaning if for permission to develop awe lose a sense of place children’s clothing store in the centre of historic Savile Row. 39 TIM STOCK
  39. 39. perfection focus EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODE Dolce & Gabbana announcedPerfection’s that it waw folding its younger, less expensive D&Gfoundation is focus. brand into its high-end line. 40 TIM STOCK
  40. 40. IMAGE: Some rights reserved by Kominyetska (on Flickr)perfection enigmatic RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODEPerfection is Apple’s iPad was cryptic on release in what design problem it solved. If you perfect the execution thevision product will activate behavior. 41 TIM STOCK
  41. 41. FreedomThe pursuit of personalacquisitions and creativeaccomplishments. 42 TIM STOCK
  42. 42. freedomThe power “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to doof one with ideas, the way we live, what is happening” 43 TIM STOCK
  43. 43. freedom empower EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODE Gen Y shoppers are increasing theirMillenials perception spending with full-price luxury retailers. Gen Y’s annual spending power exceedsof luxury is evolving $200 billion and they also influence another $50 billion in purchases. 44 TIM STOCK
  44. 44. freedom empower EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODEFreedom and A well-positioned Missoni collaborationconfidence to mix for Target, replete with Margherita Missoni, was so coveted it crashedhigh and low Target’s website. 45 TIM STOCK
  45. 45. freedom empower RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODEThe Council of FashionDesigners of America hassupported congressionalefforts to formulate protectionspecific to fashion designs.IP eclipses open Debates continue over who owns IP, why and how. the question is: will stricter IPsource sensibility. law in luxury inhibit creativity and embolden the better financed? 46 TIM STOCK
  46. 46. freedom empower EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODE We question the sharing ofWe began as open intellectual property and undermine the results ofsource culture. collaborative efforts. yet, open source is as old as humanity. 47 TIM STOCK
  47. 47. freedom empower EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODEDIY culture emerges This highly-customizable ‘Color-In’ dress by Berber Soepboer andas design becomes Michiel Schuurman lets you decideubiquitous the color scheme of your dress. 48 TIM STOCK
  48. 48. freedom play EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODE Poking fun at himself, The BitterWe need to indulge Chocolatier tells his tales ofin playful stories misfortune throughout his life through different flavors. 49 TIM STOCK
  49. 49. freedom play EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODETranscend the Bright and positive graphic packaging highlights the range of Russia’s DYMOVexpected sausages available in a store. 50 TIM STOCK
  50. 50. Alexia Grecia Sophie Group A Group C Kelly Anna ClaudiaFernanda rank perfection Paloma Eric Joy Jacqueline Abigail Shadee Group B Group D Uyen-Nhu Lena Yasmine Jana guilt freedom Polina Anne Alex IMAGE: Some rights reserved by exoskeletoncabaret (on Flickr)Group source 4 advertising examples of your codeExercise identify emergent codes and themes you find in the ads offer analysis and possible forecast of future evolution 51 TIM STOCK
  51. 51. before your groupgets started...let’s try out somesample ads to decode 52 TIM STOCK
  52. 52. residual code?emergent code?signifiers? clues? 53 TIM STOCK
  53. 53. residual code?emergent code?signifiers? clues? 54 TIM STOCK
  54. 54. your turn...20 minutes to source 4 examples10 minutes to discuss/analyze in group10 minutes per group to share/discuss 55 TIM STOCK

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