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The Codes of Luxury Workshop


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  • 1. analyzing trends | parsons the new school for designTHE CODES OFLUXURY WORKSHOP 2 TIM STOCK
  • 2. what isluxury? 3 TIM STOCK
  • 3. In the 14th century, luxury was originally a pejorativeword, denoting ‘sinful self-indulgence’. 4 TIM STOCK
  • 4. "luxury is not the opposite of poverty; it is theopposite of vulgarity." COCO CHANEL 5 TIM STOCK
  • 5. We don’t But it is interwoven into our ownneed it sense of self expression. 6 TIM STOCK
  • 6. Are we living up to the ways thatLuxury aspirations have evolved? Can wereflects us. look ourselves in the mirror and feel comfortable with what it means today? 7 TIM STOCK
  • 7. 485,000,000 results luxurywhat does luxury what associations can you find by running a simplemean today? google search? 8 TIM STOCK
  • 8. Grecia Alexia Sophie Anna Group A Group C Kelly ClaudiaFernanda Paloma Eric Joy Jacqueline Abigail Uyen-Nhu Shadee Lena Group B Group D Yasmine Polina Jana Alex Anne Group develop a taxonomy (a set of like words / associations for your group’s Exercise perception of luxury’s meaning 9 TIM STOCK
  • 9. The signals have the word means too many things to hold anybecome noise. true value today 10 TIM STOCK
  • 11. technology economics social shiftsTREND FORCES GOVERNMENT / TECHNOLOGY / SOCIETY/ RESOURCES identifying the trend forces that have shifted the story... 12 TIM STOCK
  • 12. IMAGE: All rights reserved by Fabio Suenaga (on Flickr) time ASPIRATION AUSTERITY FUELED BY FUELED BY BORROWED VALUE BUBBLES MONEYTREND FORCES GOVERNMENT / TECHNOLOGY / SOCIETY/ RESOURCES Recession The recession has left us acutely aware of the fallacies of finance reveals fallacies and the need for sustainability. 13 TIM STOCK
  • 13. IMAGE: Frog Design time TRANSPARENCY ACCESS FUELS EMPOWERED CHALLENGES CONSUMERS BRAND CONTROLTREND FORCES GOVERNMENT / TECHNOLOGY / SOCIETY/ RESOURCES Technology A catalyst for stories and participation... and what challenges control people expect to happen. 14 TIM STOCK
  • 14. time OUTSOURCE GROWTH MARKET More than half of the growthGlobalization has in global demand for importsbroadened the narrative is now originating in developing countries. 15 TIM STOCK
  • 15. rank perfection freedom guilt Luxury’s four These four codes reflect a human centered way meaning codes of meaning operates in the culture as a whole.scenarioDNA | connecting brands to culture 16
  • 16. rank consumption as status17 TIM STOCK
  • 17. Wall Street (1987)rank “...greed--for lack of a better word--is1980s good. Greed is right. Greed works. GreedGreed economics clarifies, cuts through, and captures the essence of the evolutionary spirit. 18 TIM STOCK
  • 18. Glengary Glen Ross (1992) rank1990s The culture “you drove a Hyundai to get here tonight, I drove an eighty thousand dollarof keeping up. BMW.” (brands as bragging rights) 19 TIM STOCK
  • 19. rankA counterfeit ...signals of increased accesseconomy emerges 20 TIM STOCK
  • 20. rankMcMansions frame a ...and set the framework fornew aspiration the future economic bubble 21 TIM STOCK
  • 21. rank knowledge RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODE An evolving generation acceptsToday knowlege that the definition of rank andreframes rank its appearance expands and matures over time. 22 TIM STOCK
  • 22. rank knowledge RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODEHow informed Maestro Dobel tequila’s small batch production is noted by handwrittenare you? date and bottle numbers, as well as distiller name. 23 TIM STOCK
  • 23. rank RESIDUAL knowledge EMERGENT CODE CODE GM sells a model in China so popularBuik GL8 Minivans with executives that it’s often lined upin China outside galas and high-end restaurants. 24 TIM STOCK
  • 24. rank stealth RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODE Lufthansas First Class TerminalRank evolves to (FCT) is an independent terminalstealth allows one to barely sees the travelers in other classes. 25 TIM STOCK
  • 25. rank RESIDUAL stealth EMERGENT CODE CODE Musician Seal and his Vertu Constellation Questpursuit of excellence (arete) was paramount. we crave most are Stealth is about The thingssuch aspiration required effort, discipline and intelligence.can see activating intangibles. not always what we and touch. 26 TIM STOCK
  • 26. rank RESIDUAL vice EMERGENT CODE CODE Kate Moss smoking at LouisVice emerges as Vuitton sparks controversy.expression of choice Similarly fur makes are up (while meat consumption is down) 27 TIM STOCK
  • 27. Guiltconsumption asawareness 28 TIM STOCK
  • 28. guiltRethinking powerWe now seek power thatenables change."Power is the ability to produceintended effects." --Bertrand Russell, 193829 TIM STOCK
  • 29. rank guilt RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODE Net-A-Porter offers brownGuilt supplants rank as bag service to keep yourrecession hits in 2008 purchases less conspicuous 30 TIM STOCK
  • 30. guilt restraint EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODE Beresheet Hotel, Israel We force ourselves to engageIn search of the new rituals in attempt to get closeropposite of “stuff” to the essence of what we seek. we want to feel where we are. 31 TIM STOCK
  • 31. guilt restraint EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODEBrand restraint Gucci’s initiative toward FSC paperis about fixing and cutting down on excess packaging is only one angle of a largerthe small things sustainability campaign. 32 TIM STOCK
  • 32. Two New York culinary refugees set up a rustic cocina called Hartwood in Tulum, Mexico, using local meats, seafood and produce cooked in an guilt aware EMERGENT outdoor open kitchen. RESIDUAL CODE CODEAwareness of the Working within local parameters makes a profoundcontext you are in. statement of commitment. 33 TIM STOCK
  • 33. guilt aware EMERGENTRESIDUAL CODE CODEBuilding a Think Global Taste Local is a foodreconnection to hunting company presenting the best gastronomic products fromthe source small regional companies. 34 TIM STOCK
  • 34. Perfectiona relentless pursuit ofperfecting the process bywhich an object is crafted. 35 TIM STOCK
  • 35. perfectionGreek ideals havenew relevancePursuit of excellence (arete)was paramount. such aspirationrequired effort, discipline andintelligence. 36 TIM STOCK
  • 36. perfection craft RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODE Chanel buys seven of the mostControl of process specialized ateliers in Paris, ensuringis critical continuation of the houses own couture techniques. 37 TIM STOCK
  • 37. I Am Love (2010)perfection craft RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODE Perfection applies to all senses, asEvery detail is well as to what you don’t perceive.subject to scrutiny Dishes created for “I Am Love” by chef Carol Cracco fueled the scenes. 38 TIM STOCK
  • 38. perfection craft RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODE Abercrombie & Fitch is waitingCraft loses meaning if for permission to develop awe lose a sense of place children’s clothing store in the centre of historic Savile Row. 39 TIM STOCK
  • 39. perfection focus EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODE Dolce & Gabbana announcedPerfection’s that it waw folding its younger, less expensive D&Gfoundation is focus. brand into its high-end line. 40 TIM STOCK
  • 40. IMAGE: Some rights reserved by Kominyetska (on Flickr)perfection enigmatic RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODEPerfection is Apple’s iPad was cryptic on release in what design problem it solved. If you perfect the execution thevision product will activate behavior. 41 TIM STOCK
  • 41. FreedomThe pursuit of personalacquisitions and creativeaccomplishments. 42 TIM STOCK
  • 42. freedomThe power “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to doof one with ideas, the way we live, what is happening” 43 TIM STOCK
  • 43. freedom empower EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODE Gen Y shoppers are increasing theirMillenials perception spending with full-price luxury retailers. Gen Y’s annual spending power exceedsof luxury is evolving $200 billion and they also influence another $50 billion in purchases. 44 TIM STOCK
  • 44. freedom empower EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODEFreedom and A well-positioned Missoni collaborationconfidence to mix for Target, replete with Margherita Missoni, was so coveted it crashedhigh and low Target’s website. 45 TIM STOCK
  • 45. freedom empower RESIDUAL EMERGENT CODE CODEThe Council of FashionDesigners of America hassupported congressionalefforts to formulate protectionspecific to fashion designs.IP eclipses open Debates continue over who owns IP, why and how. the question is: will stricter IPsource sensibility. law in luxury inhibit creativity and embolden the better financed? 46 TIM STOCK
  • 46. freedom empower EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODE We question the sharing ofWe began as open intellectual property and undermine the results ofsource culture. collaborative efforts. yet, open source is as old as humanity. 47 TIM STOCK
  • 47. freedom empower EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODEDIY culture emerges This highly-customizable ‘Color-In’ dress by Berber Soepboer andas design becomes Michiel Schuurman lets you decideubiquitous the color scheme of your dress. 48 TIM STOCK
  • 48. freedom play EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODE Poking fun at himself, The BitterWe need to indulge Chocolatier tells his tales ofin playful stories misfortune throughout his life through different flavors. 49 TIM STOCK
  • 49. freedom play EMERGENT RESIDUAL CODE CODETranscend the Bright and positive graphic packaging highlights the range of Russia’s DYMOVexpected sausages available in a store. 50 TIM STOCK
  • 50. Alexia Grecia Sophie Group A Group C Kelly Anna ClaudiaFernanda rank perfection Paloma Eric Joy Jacqueline Abigail Shadee Group B Group D Uyen-Nhu Lena Yasmine Jana guilt freedom Polina Anne Alex IMAGE: Some rights reserved by exoskeletoncabaret (on Flickr)Group source 4 advertising examples of your codeExercise identify emergent codes and themes you find in the ads offer analysis and possible forecast of future evolution 51 TIM STOCK
  • 51. before your groupgets started...let’s try out somesample ads to decode 52 TIM STOCK
  • 52. residual code?emergent code?signifiers? clues? 53 TIM STOCK
  • 53. residual code?emergent code?signifiers? clues? 54 TIM STOCK
  • 54. your turn...20 minutes to source 4 examples10 minutes to discuss/analyze in group10 minutes per group to share/discuss 55 TIM STOCK