A wave in deep water Waves in deep water transfer  energy , but  not matter . You can see this if you watch a duck’s movem...
A wave in deep water <ul><li>Watch the route taken by the duck, whom we shall call Bob.  </li></ul><ul><li>As the wave pas...
A wave in deep water <ul><li>Watch the route taken by the duck, whom we shall call Bob.  </li></ul><ul><li>As the wave pas...
A wave in deep water <ul><li>Watch the route taken by the duck, whom we shall call Bob.  </li></ul><ul><li>As the wave pas...
 
A wave in shallow water However, when a wave begins to break, the top of it falls forward and now  energy AND matter  will...
A wave in shallow water However, when a wave begins to break, the top of it falls forward and now  energy AND matter  will...
Think I’m talking nonsense by referring to a surfing duck?   Think again … That ‘anything’ includes, of course, any ducks ...
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Bob the duck - or the difference between a wave in deep and shallow water

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Watch Bob's journey as waves pass by him and learn how waves in deep water only transfer energy, while when waves break in shallow water they transfer energy and matter.

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Bob the duck - or the difference between a wave in deep and shallow water

  1. 1. A wave in deep water Waves in deep water transfer energy , but not matter . You can see this if you watch a duck’s movement as a wave passes by.
  2. 2. A wave in deep water <ul><li>Watch the route taken by the duck, whom we shall call Bob. </li></ul><ul><li>As the wave passes, in which direction does Bob move first? </li></ul><ul><li>Then where does he go? </li></ul><ul><li>Where does he end up in relation to where he started? </li></ul><ul><li>Why is he called Bob? </li></ul>
  3. 3. A wave in deep water <ul><li>Watch the route taken by the duck, whom we shall call Bob. </li></ul><ul><li>As the wave passes, in which direction does Bob move first? </li></ul><ul><li>Then where does he go? </li></ul><ul><li>Where does he end up in relation to where he started? </li></ul><ul><li>Why is he called Bob? </li></ul>
  4. 4. A wave in deep water <ul><li>Watch the route taken by the duck, whom we shall call Bob. </li></ul><ul><li>As the wave passes, in which direction does Bob move first? </li></ul><ul><li>Then where does he go? </li></ul><ul><li>Where does he end up in relation to where he started? </li></ul><ul><li>Why is he called Bob? </li></ul>
  5. 6. A wave in shallow water However, when a wave begins to break, the top of it falls forward and now energy AND matter will be transported. That means that anything sitting on the wave when it breaks will be carried forward towards the beach.
  6. 7. A wave in shallow water However, when a wave begins to break, the top of it falls forward and now energy AND matter will be transported. That means that anything sitting on the wave when it breaks will be carried forward towards the beach.
  7. 8. Think I’m talking nonsense by referring to a surfing duck? Think again … That ‘anything’ includes, of course, any ducks who happen to be out surfing that day.

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